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WOODWORKS TOOLBOX

MINI JAPANESE TOOLBOX

This keepsake box is based on the design of the traditional Japanese toolbox, but scaled down to around
25% of its original size. Its wedge lock lid is like a puzzle to people the first time — you’ll get a kick out of
them trying to open it. It’s a relatively easy build with no fasteners or hardware, and doesn’t take a lot of
wood to make. The plans call for walnut with maple accents, but this would be great in cedar, white oak,
or maple as the primary wood as well.

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PARTS LIST

Part Description Quantity Dimensions (L x W x H) Material

A Bottom panel 1 8" x 3-1/2" x 3/8" Walnut
B Side panels 2 8" x 2" x 3/8" Walnut
C End panels 2 3-1/8" x 2" x 3/8" Walnut
D Handle panels 2 2-3/4" x 3/4" x 3/8" Maple
E Cap panels 2 3-1/2" x 1-1/4" x 3/8" Walnut
F Batten 1 3-1/2" x 3/4" x 3/8" Maple
G Wedged Batten 1 3-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/8" Maple
H Lid panel 1 7" x 2-3/4" x 3/8" Walnut

CUTTING DIAGRAM

8” 8” 3-1/8” 3-1/8”

2” B B C C

24”

8” 7” 3-1/2” 3-1/2”

3-1/2” A
2-3/4”
H

1-1/4” E 1-1/4” E

24”

3-1/2” 3-1/2” 2-3/4” 2-3/4”

1-1/2” G
3/4” F 3/4” D 3/4” D

14”

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STEP 1: SIDE PANEL DADOES

Measure 3/8" in on each side of both side panels (B) and cut a 3/8" wide dado that is 3/16" deep across
the pieces.

STEP 2: ASSEMBLING THE BOX SIDES

Assemble the side panels to the end panels by spreading glue into the dadoes, aligning the bottom of
the end panels flush to the bottom of the side panels, then clamping them snug.
Then spread glue onto the bottom of the box side assembly and mate with the bottom panel, ensuring
the bottom panel is flush with the sides of the assembly. Secure the bottom panel to the side assembly
with clamps. Wait for the glue to dry.

B
C

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STEP 3: ADDING THE HANDLES

Measure the inside distance between the side panels and cut the handle panels (D) to size.

Profile

Cut the profile of your handle panels as desired, such as a bevel, a radiused arc, and so on. I like to create a
bevel with a 1/8" flat (see inset image). When your handle panel profile is complete, glue them to the box
end panels between the side panels. Make sure the handle panel is flush to the top of the box assembly.

STEP 4: FINISHING THE INSIDE OF THE BOX

Only on the inside of the box, bring the surface to a 180 to 220-grit sanding. Finish with your choice of
finish and set aside for finish to dry. I like to use a film finish like polyurethane or another topcoat, which
protects the inside of the box.

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STEP 5: CUTTING THE WEDGED BATTEN

Measure and mark 1/2" from the left edge of both ends of the wedged batten (G). Draw a line to connect
the two, and cut along the line to split into two pieces, the wedge lock (G1) and the wedged batten (G2).

G G1 G2

STEP 6: PLANING THE WEDGE BATTEN BEVELS

Cut the bevels on both sides of the wedge lock (G1) with a hand plane on a shooting board, using either
a 10-degree wedge, or by tilting each piece to 10 degrees by eye. This will plane the wedge lock (G1) into
a trapezoid. Now plane the wedged batten (G2) and one of the cap panels (E) so that each mate with
one side of the wedge lock.
Tip: Make sure the bevels match so that the wedge, the batten, and the cap panel all have parallel edges
(see image).

E G1 G2
E G1 G2

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STEP 7: ATTACHING THE FIRST CAP PANEL

Attach the rectangular cap panel (with no bevel) to the top of the box assembly with glue and clamps.
While the glue is drying, trim the lid panel’s length and width so that it barely fits into the box opening
under the cap panel that is clamped.

STEP 8: ATTACHING THE BATTEN TO THE LID

Cut the rectangular batten (F) to size. Mark a line on the lid panel 1/8" from one end. On the inner side of
that line, toward the center of the lid panel, spread glue in a thin line. Be sure to spread glue only in the
middle of the lid to allow for wood movement.
Using a square as a reference, glue the rectangular batten (F) into place on the lid, positioning it with its
edge right on the line you marked on the lid. Ensure the batten is centered on the lid panel with equal
overhang on each side, and then clamp and clean up the squeeze-out. Set aside to dry.

Glue on middle
of lid panel
F
H

Line marked
on lid

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STEP 9: TRIMMING THE LID

Once the lid is dry, slide the lid into the box assembly, pressing the batten up to the glued cap panel. Mark
a line where the lid overhangs the box and trim the lid 1/8" shorter than that line. Now the lid should slide
into the box opening fully. Press the batten up to the cap panel and the lid should stay in place.
Now place the beveled cap panel halfway on the other side of the top of the box assembly (see image).
Mark where the beveled cap panel meets the lid at this point. Trim the lid panel 1/16" longer than this
mark ensuring at least 1/8" of space between the box and lid edges. This will free the lid once both cap
panels are glued into place.

Line marked on lid

Cut just longer than

marked line

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STEP 10: ATTACHING THE WEDGED BATTEN TO THE LID

Insert the lid into the box opening, and place the beveled cap panel (E), the wedge lock (G1), and the
wedged batten (G2) in place on the box assembly. Mark on the lid where the wedged batten ends. Take
the lid out of the box assembly.
Just like with the rectangular batten, spread glue in the middle of the lid panel, but this time toward the
outside edge of the mark you just made. Using a square as a reference and ensuring the overhang on
each side is equal, glue the wedged batten (G2) into place. Clamp and set aside for the glue to dry.

E G1 G2

Glue on middle Line marked on lid

of lid panel

STEP 11: INSTALLING THE BEVELED CAP PANEL

Once the glue for the wedged batten is dry, install the lid into the box assembly and slide it so the
rectangular batten meets the cap panel. Spread glue onto the top of the box assembly where the beveled
cap panel will mate to it. Do not get any glue onto the lid.
Put the wedge lock into place so it’s flush with the edge of the wedged batten, then draw it back 1/16"
to account for a tight fit. Slide the beveled cap panel into place, clamp, and slide the wedge lock and lid
out. Set aside the box assembly to dry.

Glue on top of box E G1 G2

side assembly

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STEP 12: DRILLING HOLES FOR DOWEL REINFORCEMENTS

Box Assembly
Measure and mark a line across the box assembly 9/16" from the edge. Repeat for all four edges. Now mark
3/4" in from the bottom and top of the box (include the bottom and cap panels in your measurements)
along those lines. Repeat on the top of the cap panels, marking a line 9/16" from the edge of the box
assembly and 3/4" in from each side along that line.

9/16"

3/4"

Lid Panel
Mark square lines across the underside of the lid panel under the center of the rectangular batten and
the wedged batten. Ensure the line is under the center of each. Mark 3/4" in from each edge of the lid
panel along each line.

Lines marked on lid

Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill approximately 1/2" into the wood at each of these intersection points
you marked on the box assembly and the lid panel. Glue and install a 1/8"-diameter dowel into each hole
using glue. When the glue is dry, flush trim the dowel.

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STEP 13: FINAL TRIMMING AND FLUSHING

If necessary, trim and flush up parts on the box, ensuring that the assembly remains square and straight.

STEP 14: SANDING AND FINISHING

Bring the outside surface to a 220-grit sanded finish. Wipe away excess sanding dust with a tack cloth,
then finish with your finish of choice. For a walnut box like this, I prefer an oil-based topcoat, which will
not only protect the wood, but also brings life to the wood grain.

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