International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS) [Vol-6, Issue-10, Oct- 2019]

https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.610.21 ISSN: 2349-6495(P) | 2456-1908(O)

Modified Momentum Euler EquationforWater

Wave Modeling
Syawaluddin Hutahaean
Ocean Engineering Program, Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering,-Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB), Bandung
40132, Indonesia
syawaluddin1@ocean.itb.ac.id

Abstract— In this research, weighted total acceleration for a function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡)was formulated. This total
acceleration equation was done at the Euler momentum equation. Then, the Euler momentum equation was done
together with free surface boundary condition equation to formulate water wave constant at the solution of
Laplace equation. The velocity potential of the solution of Laplace equation actually consists of two components
that were used in this research.
Keywords— weighted total acceleration,convective acceleration, complete velocity potential.

I. INTRODUCTION weighting total acceleration in 𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡)to obtain a

Momentum equation is an important basic equation in clearer description.
mathematic modeling of hydrodynamics, including water
wave modeling. Momentum equation commonly used in 2.1. Weighted Total Acceleration for the function of𝑓 =
water wave modeling is Euler momentum equation. There 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡)
is a constraint in this equation, i.e. Euler momentum The changes in the value of a function in a function 𝑓 =
equation has no hydrodynamic force in the horizontal 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡)for a very small𝛿𝑥and𝛿𝑡using Taylor series only
direction or convective acceleration has a value of zero until the second derivative is,
when velocity potential is substituted to the term. To Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
𝑓(𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, 𝑡 + 𝛿𝑡) = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) + 𝛿𝑥 + Ƌ𝑡
overcome this problem, weighted total acceleration Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑡
equation was formulated where there are two weighted 𝛿𝑥 2 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 𝛿𝑡 2 Ƌ2 𝑓
+ + 𝛿𝑡𝛿𝑥 +
coefficients, i.e. at the time𝑡 differential term and at the 2 Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑡 2
differential term of vertical-𝑧direction. By working on the argument of Courant (1928) that in
Laplace equation solution consists of two velocity order to obtain a good result on horizontal velocity 𝑢 =
𝑑𝑥
potential components (Dean (1991)). However, only one , then weighting coefficient 𝛾, is done which is a
𝛾𝑑𝑡
component that has been used. Equations from water
positive number, in time differential in Taylor series.
wave constant, i.e. wave number 𝑘and wave constant 𝐺 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
can be formulated using only one velocity potential 𝑓(𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, 𝑡 + 𝛾𝛿𝑡) = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) + 𝛿𝑥 + 𝛾Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑡
component, but the value is determined by both the two 𝛿𝑥 2 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 𝛾2 𝛿𝑡 2 Ƌ2 𝑓
+ + 𝛾𝛿𝑡𝛿𝑥 + .......(1)
velocity components. In this research, the water wave 2 Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑡 2

surface equation is formulated using the two velocity At the limit 𝛿𝑥, 𝛿𝑡close to zero the following equation is
potential components, then the condition of the water obtained,
𝐷𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 𝐷𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
wave surface that has been produced is studied. =𝑢 +𝛾 or =𝛾 +𝑢 ......(2)
𝑑𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑡 𝑑𝑡 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
This equation is weighted total derivative equation or
II. WEIGHTED TOTAL ACCELERATION weighted total acceleration for the functionof𝑓 =
Hutahaean (2019a) formulated weighted total acceleration 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡)where 𝛾is weighting coefficient.
in a function 𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡), 𝑥is horizontal axis and 𝑡 is
time, using Taylor series. The formulation of weighted The method of calculating weighting coeffecient 𝛾will be
total acceleration in a function𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡),𝑧is vertical formulated using Taylor series (1). The second derivative
axis, is done using similar method, therefore the term can be omitted if,
formulation of weighting total acceleration in 𝑓 = 𝛿𝑥2 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 𝛾2 𝛿𝑡2 Ƌ2 𝑓
+𝛾𝛿𝑡𝛿𝑥 +
2 Ƌ𝑥2 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑡2
𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡)will be preceded by reviewing the formulation of | Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 | ≤ ɛ ........(3)
𝛿𝑥 +𝛾Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑡

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS) [Vol-6, Issue-10, Oct- 2019]
https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.610.21 ISSN: 2349-6495(P) | 2456-1908(O)

𝐿 2𝜋 𝜎 In order to be able to be used only until the first

Then it was defined 𝛿𝑥 = 𝐶𝛿𝑡 = 𝛿𝑡 = 𝛿𝑡 = 𝛿𝑡,
𝑇 𝑘𝑇 𝑘
𝛿𝑡2 Ƌ2 𝑓 𝛿𝑡Ƌ2𝑓
where𝐶is wave celerity, 𝑘 is wave number 𝑇 is wave derivative, then | 2 Ƌ𝑡2
| ≤ ɛor| 2 Ƌ𝑡2
|≤ɛ . For the
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
2𝜋 𝛿𝑡
period, 𝜎 = is angular frequency. 𝛿𝑥in (3) is Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑡
𝑇
𝜎 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓
substituted with 𝛿𝑡, and the following equation is function, 𝑓(𝑡) = cos 𝜎𝑡; = −𝜎 sin 𝜎𝑡; =
𝑘 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑡 2
2
obtained, −𝜎 cos 𝜎𝑡and it is done in a 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡 condition,
𝜎2 𝛿𝑡Ƌ2 𝑓 𝛾𝜎𝛿𝑡 Ƌ2 𝑓 𝛾2 𝛿𝑡Ƌ2 𝑓 and
+ +
2𝑘2 Ƌ𝑥2 𝑘 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑡2
| 𝜎Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 | ≤ ɛ .......(4) 𝛿𝑡
(−𝜎 2 ) 2ɛ
+𝛾 2
≤ ɛ or,𝛿𝑡 = ......(6)
𝑘 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑡
−𝜎 𝜎
The completions of this equation requires a function form is obtained . Substitution of (6) to (5) obtains
of 𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡). And the following sinusoidal function 𝛾 = 3 ...(7)
form will be used, It is obtained that 𝛾has a constant value, i.e. independent
𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) = cos 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜎𝑡 ....(5) of wave period or the level of accuracy ɛ.
This equation is water wave surface equation of the linear
wave theory. The derivative of the function is as follows 2.2. Weighted Total Acceleration for the function 𝑓 =
𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡)
Table.1: Derivative Equation of (5) To obtain weighted total acceleration equation in a
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 function 𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡), the similar method will be done as
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥 2 in the function 𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡), where,
= −𝑘 sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜎𝑡 = −𝑘 2 cos 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜎𝑡 𝑓(𝑥 + 𝛿𝑥, 𝑧 + 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧, 𝑡 + 𝛾𝛿𝑡) =
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑡) + 𝛿𝑥 + 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧 + 𝛾Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧 Ƌ𝑡
= −𝜎 cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜎𝑡 = 𝑘𝜎 sin 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜎𝑡 𝛿𝑥 2 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 (𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧)2 Ƌ2 𝑓
+ 2
+ 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧𝛿𝑥 +
2 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑧 2
Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 (𝛾Ƌ𝑡)2 Ƌ2 𝑓
+𝛾𝛿𝑡𝛿𝑥 + 𝛾𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑡𝛿𝑧 + ... .....(8)
Ƌ𝑡 2 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑧 2 Ƌ𝑡 2
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
= −𝜎 2 cos 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜎𝑡 In (8), for𝛿𝑧 = 𝛿𝑥, it is meant that 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧 = 𝛿𝑧 (𝛾𝑧 ),
Ƌ𝑧 Ƌ𝑧
Using the condition of 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡, therefore in a change of 𝑧for𝛿𝑧 = 𝛿𝑥, the value of the
the elements of sinusoidal function will cancel out each Ƌ𝑓
first derivative function against 𝑧is (𝛾𝑧 ), and so also
other as a result of a division. Substitute the derivative Ƌ𝑧
Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 (𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧)2 Ƌ2 𝑓
equations to (4), the following equation is obtained 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧𝛿𝑥 is meant𝛿𝑧𝛿𝑥 (𝛾𝑧 )and which
Ƌ𝑧Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑧 2
1 1 2
−𝛾+ 𝛾 ɛ 𝛿𝑧 2 Ƌ2 𝑓
|2 2
|≤ means as (𝛾𝑧2 ). As in the previous section, the
2 Ƌ𝑧 2
1+𝛾 𝜎𝛿𝑡 𝐿 2𝜋𝛿𝑡 𝜎𝛿𝑡
value of𝛿𝑥and𝛿𝑧is𝛿𝑥 = 𝛿𝑧 = 𝐶𝛿𝑡 = 𝛿𝑡 = = .
The numerator(1 + 𝛾)is a positive number, then the 𝑇 𝑘𝑇 𝑘

equation can be written as, Then, a function 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡)is reviewed with the following
1 1 ɛ form.
| − 𝛾 + 𝛾 2| ≤ (1 + 𝛾) 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡....(9)
2 2 𝜎𝛿𝑡
If equals (=) relation is used, then At𝑧 = 0, 𝑐1 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ(𝑘ℎ)and𝑐2 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ(𝑘ℎ)are defined
1 1
− 𝛾 + 𝛾2 =
ɛ
(1 + 𝛾) ......(5) and done in the deep water where 𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑘ℎ = 1with the
2 2 𝜎𝛿𝑡
value of 𝑘ℎ = 2.0𝜋. Then𝑐1 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ(2.0𝜋) = 𝑐2 =
Considering that 𝛾is a positive number, the right side of
sinh (2𝜋),and (8) is done in a condition of𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 =
the equation is a positive number. Therefore, the left side
𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡, then the sinusoidal function
of the equation is also a positive number. The calculation
cancelled out each other. The derivative equations (9) can
of the value 𝛾can be done by releasing the sign | |in the
be written in the forms shown in Table (2).
left side of the equation, i.e. using equation (5).
Table.2: Differential of (9).
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 2
Ƌ2 𝑓
The calculation of the value𝛾with (5) requires an input 𝛿𝑡. = −𝑘 𝑐1 = 𝜎𝑘𝑐1
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥
The value of 𝛿𝑡, is obtained from the function 𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑡). = −𝑘𝑐1
The approximation of Taylor series for the function is,
Ƌ𝑓 𝛿𝑡 2 Ƌ2 𝑓
𝑓(𝑡 + 𝛿𝑡) = 𝑓(𝑡) + 𝛿𝑡 +
Ƌ𝑡 2 Ƌ𝑡 2

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS) [Vol-6, Issue-10, Oct- 2019]
https://dx.doi.org/10.22161/ijaers.610.21 ISSN: 2349-6495(P) | 2456-1908(O)

Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 there is only one constant value in velocity potential total

= 𝑘𝑐2
Ƌ𝑧 Ƌ𝑥Ƌ𝑧 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑧 (12). However, in the next section it will be proven again
= −𝑘 2 𝑐2 = −𝜎𝑘𝑐2 with another method that (12) has one constant value.

Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 Equation (12) can be written as,

= 𝑘 2
𝑐1 = −𝜎 2 𝑐1
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑧 2 Ƌ𝑡 2 𝜑(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = (𝐴 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥 + 𝐵 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥)
= −𝜎𝑐1 (𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 ........(13)
To simplify the writing, the followings are defined At a condition of𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥, (13) can be written as
𝛿𝑥 2 Ƌ2 𝑓 Ƌ2 𝑓 (𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧)2 Ƌ2 𝑓 𝜑(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = (𝐴 + 𝐵) 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥
𝐴= + 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧𝛿𝑥 +
2 Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑧Ƌ𝑥 2 Ƌ𝑧 2 (𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡.....(14)
2
Ƌ 𝑓 Ƌ 𝑓 (𝛾Ƌ𝑡) Ƌ2 𝑓
2 2
or
+𝛾𝛿𝑡𝛿𝑥 + 𝛾𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑡𝛿𝑧 +
Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑡Ƌ𝑧 2 Ƌ𝑡 2 𝜑(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = (𝐴 + 𝐵) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥
Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 (𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 .......(15)
𝐵 = 𝛿𝑥 + 𝛾𝑧 𝛿𝑧 + 𝛾Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧 Ƌ𝑡 The constants of 𝐴, 𝐵, 𝐶and𝐷will be formulated using
In order for (8) to be able to be used with only the first
(14) and (15), where it will be proven that either using
derivate, then
𝐴
(14) or (15) similar constant will be obtained. The
| | ≤ ɛ ...............(9) formulation is done by doing kinematic bottom boundary
𝐵
The substitution of differential equations in Table (2) to condition on flat bottom, as was done by Dean (1991).
(9) will obtain,
𝛾2 𝑐1 ɛ a. Alternative I
− 𝑐1 + 𝛾 − − (−𝛾𝑐1 − 𝑐1 )
2 2 𝜎𝛿𝑡 The constants𝐴, 𝐵, 𝐶and𝐷 will be determined using (14)
ɛ 𝑐1 where water particle velocity at the vertical-𝑧direction is
− (𝛾 + 1 + ) 𝑐2 𝛾𝑧 + 𝛾𝑧2 = 0
𝜎𝛿𝑡 2 𝜕𝜑
Substitute𝛿𝑡from (6), 𝛿𝑡 =
2ɛ 𝑤=− = −(𝐴 + 𝐵)𝑘 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥
𝜎 𝜕𝑧
𝛾2 𝑐1 1 (𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 − 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡
− 𝑐1 + 𝛾 − − (−𝛾𝑐1 − 𝑐1 ) Substitute equation for 𝑤 to the kinematic bottom
2 2 2
1 𝑐1 2 𝜕ℎ
− (𝛾 + 1 + ) 𝑐2 𝛾𝑧 + 𝛾𝑧 = 0 ........(10) boundary condition equation𝑤−ℎ = −𝑢−ℎ , where at flat
2 2 𝜕𝑥
Ƌℎ
With (10), 𝛾𝑧 can be calculated where𝛾is a known bottom = 0,
Ƌ𝑥
from(7). With an input 𝛾 = 3, 𝛾𝑧 = 1,630 is obtained for −(𝐴 + 𝐵)𝑘 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥(𝐶𝑒 −𝑘ℎ − 𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 = 0
𝑐1 = cosh(2.0𝜋)and𝑐2 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ(2.0𝜋) where 𝑐1 = 𝑐2 . The equation is divided by −(𝐴 + 𝐵)𝑘𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡for
As a result the second derivative in (8) can be omitted and
𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 ≠ 0and𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡 ≠ 0
the total derivative equation for function 𝑓 = 𝑓(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡)is
𝐷𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓 Ƌ𝑓
𝐶𝑒 −𝑘ℎ − 𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ = 0or𝐶 = 𝐷𝑒 2𝑘ℎ . Substitute 𝐶 (14)
=𝛾 + 𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 ......(11) 𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = (𝐴 + 𝐵) 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥
𝑑𝑡 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧
(𝐷𝑒 2𝑘ℎ 𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡
III. A Complete Velocity Potential Equation or
By completing the Laplace equation with separation 𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = (𝐴 + 𝐵)𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥
variable method and after doing the time periodic (𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) + 𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡
boundary condition and lateral periodic boundary A new constant is defined
condition, Dean (1991) obtained velocity potential 𝐺𝐴 = (𝐴 + 𝐵)𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ .....(16)
equation that consisted of two potential velocities, i.e. 𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐺𝐴 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥(𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) + 𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡
𝜑(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐴 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥(𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡
...................(17)
+𝐵 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥(𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡...(12) a. Alternative II
𝜑(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝜑𝐴 (𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) + 𝜑𝐵 (𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡)...(13) The constants 𝐴, 𝐵, 𝐶and𝐷will be determined using (15),
𝜑𝐴 (𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐴 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥(𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 𝜕𝜑
...(14) 𝑤=− = −(𝐴 + 𝐵)𝑘 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥
𝜕𝑧
𝜑𝐵 (𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐵 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥(𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 (𝐶𝑒 𝑘𝑧 − 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡
...(15) Substitute equations for 𝑢 and 𝑤 to the kinematic bottom
There are four constants that should be determined, i.e. boundary condition equation
𝐴, 𝐵, 𝐶and𝐷. Hutahaean (2019b) has shown that the two 𝜕ℎ Ƌℎ
𝑤−ℎ = −𝑢−ℎ , where =0
equations have similar constant value, or in other words 𝜕𝑥 Ƌ𝑥

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS) [Vol-6, Issue-10, Oct- 2019]
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−(𝐴 + 𝐵)𝑘 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥(𝐶𝑒 −𝑘ℎ − 𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 = 0 By doing the characteristic of irrotational flow,
Ƌ𝑢
=
Ƌ𝑧
The equation is divided by −(𝐴 + Ƌ𝑤
obtained,
𝐵)𝑘𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡for𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥 ≠ 0and𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡 ≠ 0 Ƌ𝑥
Ƌ𝑢 1 Ƌ 1 Ƌ𝑝
𝐶𝑒 −𝑘ℎ − 𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ = 0or𝐶 = 𝐷𝑒 2𝑘ℎ . Substitute 𝐶to (15) 𝛾 + (𝑢2 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 2 ) = − .......(29)
Ƌ𝑡 2 Ƌ𝑥 𝜌 Ƌ𝑥
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = (𝐴 + 𝐵) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥 Total derivative equation for vertical velocity in axis-𝑧
(𝐷𝑒 2𝑘ℎ 𝑒 𝑘𝑧 + 𝐷𝑒 −𝑘𝑧 ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 direction.
or 𝐷𝑤 Ƌ𝑤 Ƌ𝑤 Ƌ𝑤
=𝛾 + 𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = (𝐴 + 𝐵)𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘 𝑥(𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) 𝑑𝑡 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧
+ 𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 The Euler momentum equation in vertical-𝑧direction
A new constant is defined becomes,
𝐺𝐵 = (𝐴 + 𝐵)𝐷𝑒 𝑘ℎ .....(18) Ƌ𝑤 Ƌ𝑤 Ƌ𝑤 1 Ƌ𝑝
𝛾 + 𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 =− −𝑔
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐺𝐵 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧 𝜌 Ƌ𝑧
Ƌ𝑤 Ƌ𝑢
(𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) + 𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 ....19) The execution of irrotational flow characteristic, =
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧
Ƌ𝑤 1 Ƌ 1 Ƌ𝑝
From(16) and (18) obtained that 𝐺𝐴 = 𝐺𝐵 = 𝐺, so it is 𝛾 + (𝑢2 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 2)
=− − 𝑔.....(30)
Ƌ𝑡 2 Ƌ𝑧 𝜌 Ƌ𝑧
proven that in (1) there is only one wave constant
(29) and (30) are modified Euler momentum equations,
value𝐺,then (7) becomes
where there are time weighting coefficient 𝛾and
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐺(𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘 𝑥 + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥)
weighting coefficient vertical 𝑧direction of weighting
(𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) + 𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡....( 20)
coefficient, i.e.𝛾𝑧 . Using (30) pressure𝑝 equation will be
The hyperbolic function equation is, 𝑒 𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) + formulated where (30) is written as an equation for
𝑒 −𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) = 2𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧), (13) becomes pressure𝑝.
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 2𝐺(𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘𝑥 + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥)𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 1 Ƌ𝑝 Ƌ𝑤 1 Ƌ 2
− =𝛾 + (𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 2 ) + 𝑔
Defined 𝐺 = 2𝐺 𝜌 Ƌ𝑧 Ƌ𝑡 2 Ƌ𝑧
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝐺(𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘𝑥 + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥)𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 This equation is multiplied by 𝑑𝑧and integrated against
....(21) vertical-𝑧 axis.
A complete velocity potential equation is obtained with 𝜂
𝑝 Ƌ𝑤 1
the form as in (21). In that equation, there are still two = 𝛾∫ 𝑑𝑧 + (𝑢𝜂2 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤𝜂2 )
𝜌 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡 2
wave constants where the form should be known, i.e. 1 2
wave number 𝑘and wave constant 𝐺. Considering that − (𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 2 ) + 𝑔(𝜂 − 𝑧)
2
the values of wave number 𝑘and wave constant 𝐺is Differentiated against horizontal-𝑥axis
similar along the wave curve, then the calculation of the 1 Ƌ𝑝 Ƌ 𝜂 Ƌ𝑤 1 Ƌ
=𝛾 ∫ 𝑑𝑧 + (𝑢2 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤𝜂2 )
two parameters will be done at the point of characteristic 𝜌 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡 2 Ƌ𝑥 𝜂
where 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥, at this condition,(21) becomes, 1 Ƌ 2 Ƌ𝜂
− (𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 2 ) + 𝑔
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 2𝐺𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡....(26) 2 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥
Substituted to (29)
The particle velocity in horizontal-𝑥direction is, Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ 𝜂 Ƌ𝑤
Ƌ𝛷
𝛾 +𝛾 ∫ 𝑑𝑧
𝑢=− = 2𝐺𝑘𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡 ....(27) Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝑥 1 Ƌ Ƌ𝜂
The particle velocity in vertical-𝑧direction is, + (𝑢𝜂2 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤𝜂2 ) = −𝑔 ....(31)
2 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥
Ƌ𝛷 Ƌ 𝜂 Ƌ𝑤
𝑤=− = −2𝐺𝑘𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘𝑥 sinh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜎𝑡 .....(28) The completion of ∫ 𝑑𝑧is done using velocity
Ƌ𝑧 Ƌ𝑥 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡
potential (21), where the particle velocity in horizontal
IV. Application of Weighted Total Acceleration on direction is in equation (27), and the particle velocity in
Euler Momentum Equation vertical-𝑧direction (28). From (28) the following is
From (28), the total derivative for horizontal 𝑥direction obtained,
velocity is, Ƌ𝑤
= −2𝐺𝑘𝜎𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡
𝐷𝑢 Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑡
=𝛾 + 𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 This equation is integrated against time 𝑡,
𝑑𝑡 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧
𝜂
With this total derivative equation, the Euler momentum Ƌ𝑤
∫ 𝑑𝑧 = −2𝐺𝜎𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥
equation in horizontal-𝑥direction becomes, 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑢 1 Ƌ𝑝 (𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) − 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧))𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡
𝛾 + 𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 =−
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑧 𝜌 Ƌ𝑥 Then, it is differentiated against horizontal-𝑥 axis

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Science (IJAERS) [Vol-6, Issue-10, Oct- 2019]
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Ƌ 𝜂 Ƌ𝑤 𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) = 𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ(2.0𝜋) =

∫ 𝑑𝑧 = 𝐺𝑘𝜎𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥
Ƌ𝑥 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ(2.0𝜋) ......(36)
(𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) − 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧))𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 Bearing in mind this wave number conservation law, then
Ƌ𝑢 even though the weighting coefficient is formulated in
Equation (27) is differentiated against time 𝑡, =
Ƌ𝑡 deep water condition, it will also apply in other depths.
2𝐺𝑘𝜎𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡, and it is seen that this 5.2. Substitute Velocity Potential to Momentum Equation
Ƌ 𝜂 Ƌ𝑤
form is in ∫ 𝑑𝑧 , so the following relation is From (27),
Ƌ𝑥 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡
obtained 𝑢 = 2𝐺𝑘𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡
Ƌ 𝜂 Ƌ𝑤 Ƌ𝑢𝜂 Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑢
∫ 𝑑𝑧 = ( − ) = 2𝐺𝑘 2 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡
Ƌ𝑥 𝑧 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
Ƌ𝑢
Substitute this equation to (31) 𝑢 = 4𝐺 2 𝑘 3 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ2 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)𝑠𝑖𝑛2 𝜎𝑡
Ƌ𝑢𝜂 1 Ƌ Ƌ𝜂 Ƌ𝑥
𝛾 + (𝑢𝜂2 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤𝜂2 ) = −𝑔 .....(32) At 𝑧 = 𝜂
Ƌ𝑡 2 Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥
This equation is a surface momentum equation that will Ƌ𝑢
𝑢 = 4𝐺 2 𝑘 3 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ2 𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂)𝑠𝑖𝑛2 𝜎𝑡.....(37)
Ƌ𝑥
be used in the calculation of 𝐺and𝑘.
From (28)
𝑤 = −2𝐺𝑘𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘𝑥 sinh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜎𝑡
V. THE FORMULATION OF AN EQUATION
Ƌ𝑤
FOR THE CALCULATION OF 𝐺 AND 𝑘 = 2𝐺𝑘 2 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘𝑥 sinh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) sin 𝜎𝑡
Ƌ𝑥
As has been mentioned in the previous section that the Ƌ𝑤
calculation of 𝐺and 𝑘is done in the point of characteristic 𝑤 = −4𝐺 2 𝑘 3 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ2 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)𝑠𝑖𝑛2 𝜎𝑡
Ƌ𝑥
where 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥. Therefore, (27) is used as the At 𝑧 = 𝜂
particle velocity in horizontal 𝑥direction and (28) is 𝑤
Ƌ𝑤
= −4𝐺 2 𝑘 3 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ2 𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂)𝑠𝑖𝑛2 𝜎𝑡)
Ƌ𝑥
particle velocity equation in vertical 𝑧 direction.
..(38)
In deep water where𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) = 1, then𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ +
5.1 Wave number conservation equation
𝜂) = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂). Substitute (37) and (38) to the
In the formulation of an equation for the calculation of
convective velocity,
𝐺and𝑘in the following sub-chapter, the wave number
Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑤
conservation equation will be done. The equation come (𝑢 + 𝛾𝑧 𝑤 ) =
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥 𝑧=𝜂
from the principle of variable separation at the completion
(1 − 𝛾𝑧 )𝐺 2 𝑘 3 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 cosh2 𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) sin2 𝜎𝑡
of Laplace equation, i.e. that velocity potential is
considered as a multiplication of three functions, i.e. At the characteristic point, i.e. a point where 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 =
𝐴
𝛷(𝑥, 𝑧, 𝑡) = 𝑋(𝑥)𝑍(𝑧)𝑇(𝑡)where𝑋(𝑥)is just a function-𝑥, 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 = 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡, where𝜂 = ,
2
𝑍(𝑧)is just a function-𝑧and𝑇(𝑡) is just a function-𝑡. In Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑤
(𝑢 + 𝑤𝛾𝑧 ) =
this case 𝑍(𝑧) = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧). As just function-𝑧then, Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥 𝑧=𝜂
Ƌ𝑍(𝑧) 1 𝐴
Ƌ𝑥
= 0. (1 − 𝛾𝑧 )𝐺 2 𝑘 3 cosh2 𝑘 (ℎ + ) .....(39)
4 2
Ƌ𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) Ƌ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) Ƌ𝑢 Ƌ𝑤
= 𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) =0 If in (39) 𝛾𝑧 = 1 is used, then (𝑢 + 𝑤𝛾𝑧 ) =0
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥 𝑧=𝜂
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥
For 𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)is not equal to zero, then will be obtained. So, it is found that if at the term
Ƌ𝑘(ℎ+𝑧) Ƌ𝑤
=0 ....(33) 𝑤 and𝛾𝑧 = 1is used or without weighting coefficient 𝛾𝑧
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥
This equation (33) is called wave number conservation , hydroynamic force of the surface in horizontal
equation. This means that all area of calculation has direction has a value of zero or there is no
similar values for the function 𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧), 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + hydrodynamicforce. From (27), at the characteristic point,
Ƌ𝑢 𝐴
𝑧) dan 𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧). As deep water, it can be defined as = 𝐺𝑘𝜎 cosh 𝑘 (ℎ + ) .....(40)
Ƌ𝑡 2
water depth where𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) = 1, where𝜂 = 𝜂(𝑥. 𝑡)is Substitute (39) and (40) to (32),
the water surface elevation against still water level. 𝐴
Bearing in mind that the wave number conservation 𝛾𝜎𝐺𝑘 cosh 𝑘 (ℎ + )
2
equation or law, in the entire domain applies 1 𝐴 Ƌ𝜂
+ (1 − 𝛾𝑧 )𝐺 𝑘 cosh2 𝑘 (ℎ + ) = −𝑔 ....(41)
2 3
𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) = 1 ....(34) 2 2 Ƌ𝑥
Ƌ𝜂
In this research, the following is used Where 𝑔 is worked at the characteristic point. This
Ƌ𝑥
𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) = 2.0 𝜋 ....(35) equation is a relation between 𝐺and𝑘where wave
Where𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ(2.0𝜋) = 0.999993. amplitude 𝐴is the input.

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5.2 The formulation of wave amplitude function 𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = 𝐴𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 ..........(47)

The weighted total acceleration equation (2), done at the 𝐴
At the characteristic point, then𝜂 = , wave amplitude
𝐷𝜂 2
water wave surface equation 𝜂 = 𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡), obtained = function equation,
𝑑𝑡
Ƌ𝜂 Ƌ𝜂 2𝐺𝑘 𝐴 𝐴 𝑘𝐴
𝛾 + 𝑢𝜂 . The original kinematic free surface 𝐴= (𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘 (ℎ + ) − 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘 (ℎ + ) )
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
Ƌ𝜂 𝛾𝜎 2 2 2
boundary condition (KFSBC) equation is, 𝑤𝜂 = + 𝐴 𝐴
Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝜂
From (36) where𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘 (ℎ + ) = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘 (ℎ + ) the
2 2
𝑢𝜂 . By comparing the two equations, then the KFSBC
Ƌ𝑥 wave amplitude function equation becomes,
Ƌ𝜂 Ƌ𝜂
equation should be in the form of 𝑤𝜂 = 𝛾 + 𝑢𝜂 , or 𝐴=
2𝐺𝑘
𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘 (ℎ + ) (1 −
𝐴 𝑘𝐴
).......(48)
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
𝛾𝜎 2 2
Ƌ𝜂 Ƌ𝜂
𝛾 = 𝑤𝜂 − 𝑢𝜂 ...(42)
Ƌ𝑡 Ƌ𝑥
Substitute𝑢from (27) and𝑤from (28) and done at 𝑧 = 𝜂, 5.3 Equation for the calculation of 𝑘and 𝐺
Ƌ𝜂 Substitute (47) to (41) at the characteristic point
𝛾 = −2𝐺𝑘𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂)𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡 𝐴
Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝜂 𝛾𝜎𝐺𝑘 cosh 𝑘 (ℎ + )
−2𝐺𝑘𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂)𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡 ......(43) 2
Ƌ𝑥
1 𝐴 𝑘𝐴
Water wave surface equation was obtained by integrating + (1 − 𝛾𝑧 )𝐺 2 𝑘 3 cosh2 𝑘 (ℎ + ) = 𝑔
2 2 2
(43) against time 𝑡. The right side of the equation is a
Substitute wave amplitude function,
non-linear function against time 𝑡of which the integration 𝐴 1
completion is difficult. However, there is an argument 𝐺𝛾𝜎 cosh 𝑘 (ℎ + ) + (1 − 𝛾𝑧 )𝐺 2 𝑘 2
2 2
that can simplify the integration (43) completion. First 𝐴 𝐺𝑘 𝐴 𝑘𝐴
bearing in mind (36), i.e. 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘ℎ(ℎ + 𝜂) = cosh(2.0𝜋) = cosh2 𝑘 (ℎ + ) = 𝑔 cosh 𝑘 (ℎ + ) (1 − )
2 𝛾𝜎 2 2
𝑐𝑜𝑛𝑠𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑡. Then, (43) is written as, 𝐺𝑘 𝐴
The equation is divided by cosh 𝑘 (ℎ + ),
Ƌ𝜂 𝛾𝜎 2
𝛾 = −2𝐺𝑘 𝛾𝜎 𝐴 𝑘𝐴
Ƌ𝑡 𝛾 2𝜎 2 + (1 − 𝛾𝑧 )𝐺𝑘 2 cosh 𝑘 (ℎ + ) = 𝑔𝑘 (1 − )
Ƌ𝜂 2 2 2
(𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) ) 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡 Wave amplitude equation is written as an equation for 𝐺,
Ƌ𝑥
...(44) i.e.
𝐴𝛾𝜎
In (44) the one that is the function of time 𝑡is only the 𝐺= 𝐴 𝑘𝐴 .......(49)
2kcosh 𝑘(ℎ+ )(1− )
element of𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡. In addition, as a periodical function 2 2
and substitute it to the last equation,
against time 𝑡, the element −2𝐺𝑘 (𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ +
𝑘𝐴 𝛾 2𝜎 2 𝑘𝐴 2
𝜂) + 2𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂)
Ƌ𝜂
) should be a constant 𝛾 2 𝜎 2 (1 − ) + (1 − 𝛾𝑧 )𝑘𝐴 = 𝑔𝑘 (1 − )
Ƌ𝑥 2 4 2
number against time 𝑡. Thus, the integration (44) against .....(50)
time 𝑡, is sufficient by integrating only the 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝜎𝑡element, The calculation of the value 𝑘with this equation using
obtained Newton-Rhapson method requires initial estimation
2𝐺𝑘 of𝑘for the initial value of the iteration. The initial value of
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = 𝑘can be obtainedby ignoring convective acceleration, then
𝛾𝜎
Ƌ𝜂 (50) becomes
(𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) ) 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 𝑘𝐴
Ƌ𝑥 𝛾 2 𝜎 2 = 𝑔𝑘 (1 − ) ....(51)
2
.......(45)
This equation is the quadratic equation of wave number
At the characteristics point, (45) can be written as
𝑘that can be easily completed. The use of (51) maximum
2𝐺𝑘
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = value of wave amplitude A in a wave period in deep water
𝛾𝜎
is obtained, i.e. if the determinant D from (51) has a value
Ƌ𝜂
(𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) + 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) ) 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 of zero.
Ƌ𝑥 𝑔
......(46) 𝐴𝑚𝑎𝑥 = 2 2 ....(52)
2𝛾 𝜎
The form 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 was selected becauseit has been The value of𝐺can be calculated using (49).
determined that the velocity potential component that was
used is 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 componentIt is defined VI. THE FORMULATION OF WATER WAVE
2𝐺𝑘 Ƌ𝜂 SURFACE EQUATION.
𝐴= (𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) + 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) )
𝛾𝜎 Ƌ𝑥 Water wave surface equation is formulated using a
Then (46) becomes complete velocity potential equation, i.e. equation (21).

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By using (21), particle velocity in horizontal-𝑥direction Table.3: The result of calculation of wave parameter and
and particle velocity in vertical-𝑧direction are other characteristic
consecutively, 𝑇 𝐻 𝐿 𝐻 𝐻 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
𝑢 = 𝐺𝑘(𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘𝑥 − 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥)𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 (sec) (m) (m) 𝐿 𝐴 𝐻
𝑤 = −𝐺𝑘(𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘𝑥 + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥)𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 6 1,409 5,026 0,28 2,865 0,851
The two particle velocity equations are done at 𝑧 = 𝜂and 7 1,918 6,842 0,28 2,865 0,851
substituted to equation KFSBC (42), 8 2,506 8,936 0,28 2,865 0,851
Ƌ𝜂
𝛾 = −𝐺𝑘(𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘𝑥 + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥)𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 9 3,171 11,309 0,28 2,865 0,851
Ƌ𝑡
Ƌ𝜂 10 3,915 13,962 0,28 2,865 0,851
−𝐺𝑘(𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘𝑥 − 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥)𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡 11 4,737 16,894 0,28 2,865 0,851
Ƌ𝑥
....(53) 12 5,638 20,105 0,28 2,865 0,851
As in the previous section, the water wave surface 13 6,617 23,595 0,28 2,865 0,851
equation is obtained by integrating (53) against time𝑡, 14 7,674 27,365 0,28 2,865 0,851
where the integration is sufficient to be done only at the 15 8,81 31,413 0,28 2,865 0,851
𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝜎 𝑡element,
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = Using water wave surface equation, the elevation of wave
𝐺𝑘
(𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝑘𝑥 + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥)𝑠𝑖𝑛ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝜎 𝑡 crest 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥 and the elevation of wave trough 𝜂𝑚𝑖𝑛 are
𝛾𝜎 calculated. The wave height is 𝐻 = 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥 − 𝜂𝑚𝑖𝑛 ,
𝐺𝑘 Ƌ𝜂 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
+ (𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝑘𝑥 − 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥)𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂) 𝑐𝑜𝑠 𝜎 𝑡 whereas Wilson (1963) criteria is .Table (3) presented
𝛾𝜎 Ƌ𝑥 𝐻

In the deep water the equation can be written as, the result of the calculations of wave height, wavelength,
Ƌ𝜂 wave steepness, and the comparison of wave height 𝐻and
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = 𝑐0 ((𝑐2 + 𝑐1 ) + (𝑐1 − 𝑐2 ) ) 𝑐3 ......(54) wave amplitude 𝐴.
Ƌ𝑥
𝐺𝑘
where,to simplify the writing 𝑐0 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂), 𝑐1 =
𝛾𝜎 𝐻
𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥, 𝑐2 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 dan 𝑐3 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡are defined. Equation Wave-steepness = 0.280, where considering the
𝐿
(54) is differentiated against horizontal-𝑥 axis calculation used maximum wave Amplitude A that was
Ƌ𝜂 Ƌ𝜂 calculated using (52), then wave steepness is critical wave
= 𝑐0 𝑘 ((−𝑐1 + 𝑐2 ) + (𝑐2 + 𝑐1 ) ) 𝑐3 ........(55)
Ƌ𝑥 Ƌ𝑥 steepness.
Equation (54) is water wave surface equation that is used Table.4: Types of wave, according to Wilson criteria
Ƌ𝜂
to calculate water surface elevation where in (54) is (1963)
Ƌ𝑥
𝐺𝑘 Wave Type 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
calculated using (55). 𝜂in 𝑐0 = 𝑐𝑜𝑠ℎ𝑘(ℎ + 𝜂)is 𝐻
𝛾𝜎
calculated using the equation, Airy waves < 0.505
𝜂(𝑥, 𝑡) = 𝐴(𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥 + 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥)𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 ....(56) Stoke’s waves < 635
Ƌ𝜂 Cnoidal waves 𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
Whereas in (55) it is calculated with, 0.635 < <1
Ƌ𝑥
Ƌ𝜂
𝐻
= 𝐴𝑘(−𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑥 + 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝑘𝑥)𝑐𝑜𝑠𝜎𝑡 ....(57) Solitary waves =1
Ƌ𝑥

VII. THE RESULTS OF THE EQUATION. The critical wave steepness is bigger than the criteria
𝐻
7.1 The characteristic of water wave surface. ofMichell (1893) i.e. = 0.142. The comparison
𝐿
In the calculations that will be done in this section, the 𝐻
between wave height and wave amplitude is =
value of 𝛾 = 3.0and𝛾𝑧 = 1.630are used and the 𝐴

calculation is done in the deep water. Deep water depth 2.865which is bigger than 2. Therefore, therelation
ℎ0 is obtained with the following equation between wave height and wave amplitude is𝐻 = 2𝐴
𝜂𝑚𝑎𝑥
1 𝑘𝐴 cannot be used. The obtained Wilson parameter is =
ℎ0 = (2.0𝜋 − ) ....(58) 𝐻
𝑘 2
0.851. Based on Wilson criteria (1963), Table (4), the
Where𝐴is calculated using (52).
value of the parameter shows that the wave profile has a
cnoidal wave type, with wave profile presented
inFig.1.and Fig.2.for wave period 𝑇 = 8 sec.

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2.5 using the model, where the input in the model is wave
2 period 𝑇and wave amplitude calculated using (52), so that
1.5 the wave height that is obtained is the wave height
η (m)

1 maximum𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 in the related wave period.

0.5 Table (5) shows that for𝛾 = 3, the obtained 𝑇𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 is
0 almost similar with the 𝑇that is a wave period to
-0.5 calculate 𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 with the model. Whereas in 𝛾 = 2.97102,
2 6 10 14 18
it can be said that the obtained 𝑇𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 is equal with 𝑇. The
x (m)
result of this calculation concludes that the values of 𝛾,
𝛾𝑧 and equations formulated in this research are in line
Fig.1. Wave profile with wave period of 8 sec., in one
with the result of Wiegel research (1949-1964) which is
wave length
the result of an observation.

2.5 VIII. CONCLUSION

2 If the characteristic of ideal fluid i.e. irrotational flow is
1.5 done at Euler momentum equation, and the velocity
η (m)

1 potential as the product of Laplace equation solution is

0.5 substituted, the hydrodynamic force or convective
0 equation in the horizontal direction becomes zero. This
-0.5 problem can be solved using weighted total acceleration
0 10 20 30 40 where there is weighting coefficient at the differential
x (m) term against vertical-𝑧 axis and the resulted model
producewave height that corresponds to Wiegel equation.
Fig.2. Wave profile with wave period of 8 sec., in3 wave Another finding that should be noticed is that the value of
lengths. wave height is not twice the value of wave amplitude.
A further research needed is formulating shoaling and
7.2. Comparison with Wiegel equation breaking model by doing the weighted total acceleration
Using data from an observation, Wiegel (1949-1964) equation, because there are many researches result in the
formulated relation between wave period 𝑇and maximum laboratory on breaker height that are stated in the form of
wave height 𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 in a wave period, i.e. Breaker Height Index equation, so that the shoaling-
𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 breaking model and its various basic theories can easily
𝑇𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 = 15.6√ ..........(58)
𝑔 be calibrated.
Table.5: Comparison with Wiegel equation
𝛾 = 3.0 𝛾 = 2.97102 REFERENCES
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Engineering.2. Singapore: World Scientific. ISBN 978-981-
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The comparison was done by calculating 𝑇𝑊𝑖𝑒𝑔 in (58) partiellen Differenzengleic hungen der mathemtischen
usingthe wave height which is the result of a calculation Physik. Matematische Annalen (in German). 100 (1): 32-74,

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