We hear a lot about diversity in the media these days much more

than we did ten years ago. Many of us wonder whether this

move toward inclusion is just a marketing gimmick and many
times it is just a ploy used by brands to ensure maximum
visibility. But on a deeper level, this move towards diversity has
come about because of a crying need to accurately reflect the
population at large. The human species is beautiful but it isn’t
homogenous. It is made up of different sizes, ethnicities,
genders, sexualities, and ages.
When fashion brands market their products they choose only
one kind of person - a twenty-something Caucasian who is thin
and has sharp features. While that may cater to a few people,
the larger majority does not look like that.
The fashion industry has started to realise that if it wants to cater
to as many people as possible it needs to start reflecting those
very same people in their campaigns and on the runway. While
faces haven’t changed drastically, owing to awareness around
diversity issues, casting agents and advertising managers have
started to look out for faces which earlier they would never have
even considered.
Upon speaking to a budding model, just starting out in
the industry at the age of 23 in Mumbai, named Rimzin Sarmah
who is from Delhi but her family is originally from Assam.
According to Rimzin, “not much has changed with regard to
Bollywood casting, but I get quite a few offers to model for up
and coming indie brands”.
While Bollywood might still not have changed it’s tune vis-à-vis
casting more diverse faces, the modeling scene has changed
drastically. It’s important to note that for any brand, public image
is of paramount importance, the public now wants to see
diversity and inclusion in the brands they decide to invest their
hard-earned money in. Most recently Ed Razek, the chief
marketing officer of Victoria Secret's parent company in the latest
annual Victoria’s Secret fashion show was reported to have said,
by a media house, that they did not want to hire transgender
models or large models because they couldn’t fit into the
Victoria’s Secret fantasy dream. This led to a widespread
outrage and moreover lessened the excitement and buzz that
usually surrounds the show weeks before their showcase
because not only are they morally incorrect but also boring and
repetitive. Brands now want to avoid such media fiascos so they
have started to realise the way the wind is blowing and have
decided to try and push for more
inclusive and representative casting. If a brand is seen to be
backward it harms their sales. This is the social media
generation, opinions equal monetary sales and brands cannot
afford to ignore public opinion.
If we take a look back into when advertising and media
campaigns became big money investments for brands, it was
around the 1960s just when television was getting a mainstream
foothold in people’s lives. At the time in the United States there
was this vision of the “perfect American family” - white, blonde
tall and athletic. Advertising executives decided to follow this
model of the American family to try and drive up sales. This
technique worked and continued right up until to the 21st
century.
Around 2005 the internet took off in a big way, social media
websites started to pop up. On these websites discussions grew
as to why the idea and vision of the perfect family and perfect
image was so limited to young conventionally attractive
Caucasians. This lead to think pieces, articles and speeches
around the world criticising this singular narrative of how people
should look if they want to join the fashion industry. Which further
more lead to advertising executives taking note that if they
wanted to get positive public opinion, they had to change up their
casting mantra.
Another young model of age 21, Alexander Balakrishnan who is
of mixed heritage (Scottish and Malayali) gave his opinion about
how he sees the coming years take shape in the industry.
“I had never even considered joining modeling because all the
models I saw were tall and with a broad athletic build, I am short
and not too broad so hadn’t even thought to enter this industry.
One day I got an message on Instagram regarding a shoot with
Grazia and from there on I’ve continued working and am now
signed to a modeling agency. I can only see representation
getting better as the years go on, social media has been a big
change factor and people will continue to fight for more inclusive
faces in fashion.”
As with any form of change, it has been slow and a long time in
the making, but it is definitely happening and it is here to stay.