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• 65 hairs
• 100 sebaceous glands
• 78 yards of nerves
• 650 sweat glands
• 19 yards of blood vessels
• 9,500,000 cells
• 1,300 nerve endings
• 20,000 sensory cells
just to name… um… a few. Our body’s largest organ makes up about
15% of our total weight and covers 20 square feet. Paper-thin and
incredibly complex, your skin protects you from the perils of your
environment and allows you to feel pain and pleasure. It’s working to
renew itself every second of every day. So how well do you really
know the back of your hand — or for that matter, any square inch of
your skin?
Subcutaneous fat. Contrary to popular belief, not all fat is bad. The
bottom, or subcutaneous, layer of your skin is composed primarily of
fat cells. The thickness of subcutaneous tissue is determined by a
number of factors, including gender, age, heredity, hormones and
eating habits — while it’s not healthy to have too much fat, you need
to have some. Why? This part of your skin acts as an insulator,
keeping you warm and protecting underlying tissue from shocks and
bumps. It’s also the place where your hair begins — each hair follicle
all over your body has its roots in the subcutaneous layer. These
sebaceous follicles continue up through the dermis, allowing each hair
to deliver sebum to the surface of your skin, so it stays pliable and
protected.
The old saying “beauty is skin deep” carries a certain amount of truth.
Our skin is the part of us we show to the world. Its appearance reflects
our age, origin, health, and even state of mind. It has an unbelievable
ability to repair itself — but it’s not invincible. One out of three people
will experience some kind of skin problem during their lifetime; and
nearly everyone gets a pimple or two at some point. For some, acne
can be a serious problem, persisting well beyond the teenage years
and eventually causing permanent physical and psychological damage.
Do you or someone you care about suffer from acne? This website is
intended to provide the information necessary to help acne sufferers
get the upper hand. Let’s get started by finding out how acne starts.
You've been anticipating — and possibly dreading — the "big day" for
weeks. The nature of the event isn't important; it may be a first date,
an important job interview, or your own birthday party. You try to hide
behind hair or heavy make-up. But you can't ignore the face in the
mirror.
Sound familiar? For acne sufferers all over the world, these scenarios
are all too common. Even routine social interactions — a day at the
office, a trip to the market — can be a nightmare of stress and self-
loathing. Yet, due to the "merely cosmetic" nature of acne vulgaris,
these very real emotions are widely dismissed as oversensitivity.
Clear-faced friends and co-workers say, "Really, it looks worse to you."
And they're probably right. But they're missing an important point:
Acne is as much about how you feel as how you look. Over the years,
the research methods and medical treatments may have changed, but
the answers to the question "how does your acne make you feel?"
have remained alarmingly constant: Ugly. Angry. Dirty. Depressed.
These answers are consistent across gender lines, age barriers and
national borders.
What is being done?
Every year, millions of dollars are devoted to the medical study and
treatment of acne; millions more are spent on the development and
marketing of over-the-counter remedies. Comparatively little energy,
however, has been spent determining the psychological and social
effects of the condition. Consider the following statement:
There is no single condition which causes more psychic trauma, more
maladjustment between parent and children, more general insecurity
and feelings of inferiority and greater sums of psychic suffering than
does acne vulgaris.1
Made by Sulzberger and Zaidems in a 1948 article, this statement
rings true today. Despite acne's limited impact on overall patient
health, several studies have concluded that it produces a similar
degree of emotional stress to skin conditions causing significant
physical disability. The implications are fairly obvious: Acne hurts more
on the inside. So why is it so easy for people to dismiss these feelings
as vanity?
The problem of measuring emotion.
The difficulty lies not in validating acne's negative affects, but in
quantifying them. For years, researchers have been struggling to find
an accurate means of measurement for this particular kind of study.
Scientists use psychometrics to measure conditions of the mind, but
have yet to develop a scale for evaluating the psychological effects of
physical conditions such as acne. And the use of psychometric scales
for evaluating acne patients has been largely inconclusive.
Why? Emotional symptoms — depression, anger, low self-esteem —
are influenced by an incredible number of variables. So it's difficult to
know for sure whether one's depression is caused by acne alone or a
combination of factors, ranging from trouble in school to on-the-job
stress. At the moment, the best way to understand the psychosocial
effects of acne seems surprisingly simple: Listen.
The power of patient testimony.
Until science develops an accurate scale, the best way for us to learn
about acne's emotional effects is from the patients themselves. The
following passages are excerpted from verbatim quotes taken during a
1995 study in San Francisco.2 In dramatic contrast with the
psychometric questionnaires used in the past, patients were asked
open-ended questions and encouraged to answer at length.
It has been many years since I have looked in a mirror. I comb my
hair using a silhouette on the wall to show the outline of my head. I
have not looked myself in the eyes in years, and that is painful to not
be able to do that, and that is a direct result of acne.
When my acne got more severe, I began to really examine more
things, become more aware of social norms, what is acceptable, what
is attractive. That is when I began to have lower self-esteem; it made
me become more of an introvert. It made me want to avoid certain
occasions. 'Ask her out? Well, maybe not. She won't be interested
because of how I look.
It's associated with being dirty, and I hate that, because it's not at all
like that. I inherited it from my mother, and she is always telling me
that she had the exact same thing, and that it will go away. I am mad
that I inherited it from her. My dad makes me feel bad because he
never had bad skin when he was younger, so he doesn't understand.
My mother doesn’t know what she has done to hurt me. If I ate fatty
foods, she would criticize. If I ate spicy food — which Thai food is, they
are all spicy — she would say that because I ate spicy food, that was
why I had pimples. She kept telling me how ugly my face was, and no
one was going to marry me if I had bad-looking skin. And that really
hurts me.
I know I am so insecure in this way — but if I go into a store, I won't
buy candy, even if I really want it. I think in my mind that people are
looking at what I am buying, and thinking, 'Oh, she eats junk. No
wonder she has so many zits on her face.
From just this small sample, it's easy to see the wide-ranging
emotional impact of acne on those who suffer from it. These accounts
of family conflict, social withdrawal and deep private suffering are,
according to the patients, the direct result of their acne.
While it's hard to measure the impact of this condition, the message
within these testimonies is clear: Acne can cause profound emotional
suffering. Of course, if you live with acne, this isn’t news — but it may
be helpful to know you’re not alone.
And there’s good news, too. We now know more about the treatment
of acne than ever before. There is a wide range of acne treatments
available, and there’s a good chance you’ll be able to find a regimen
that works for you. More about acne treatments.
The effects of acne — both physical and emotional — can last much
longer than your breakouts. Even after lesions have healed, they can
leave behind permanent reminders. While it’s difficult to avoid acne
scarring completely, understanding the inner workings of your skin can
help you minimize long-term damage.
Acne Scar Treatment: Heal acne blemishes and help stop new ones -
Click Here to learn more about Proactiv® Solution.
Though all pimples start the same way, they can take many forms and
may react differently for different people. All acne begins with one basic
lesion: The comedo, an enlarged hair follicle plugged with oil and
lesion: The comedo, an enlarged hair follicle plugged with oil and
bacteria. Invisible to the naked eye, the comedo lurks beneath the
surface of your skin waiting for the right conditions to grow into an
inflamed lesion. As the skin continues to produce more oil, bacteria
flourishes within the swollen follicle. The surrounding skin becomes
increasingly inflamed as your white blood cells fight against the
intruders.
NOTE: The following guide is not intended to be used for conclusive self-
diagnosis; it’s best to consult a dermatologist if your acne persists.
These definitions may be used to help you decide whether or not you
should consider seeking medical attention.
Types of Acne - NON-INFLAMMATORY ACNE
Closed comedo, or whitehead. If the plugged follicle
stays below the surface of the skin, the lesion is called a
closed comedo, or whitehead. They usually appear on the
skin as small, whitish bumps.
Open comedo, or blackhead. If the plug enlarges and
pushes through the surface of the skin, it's called an
open comedo, or blackhead. The plug's dark appearance
is not due to dirt, but rather to a buildup of melanin, the
skin's dark pigment.
Types of Acne - INFLAMMATORY ACNE
Papule. The mildest form of inflammatory acne is the
papule, which appears on the skin as a small, firm pink
bump. These can be tender to the touch, and are often
considered an intermediary step between non-
inflammatory and clearly inflammatory lesions.
Pustule. Like papules, pustules are small round lesions; unlike papules,
they are clearly inflamed and contain visible pus. They may appear red
at the base, with a yellowish or whitish center. Pustules do not
commonly contain a great deal of bacteria; the inflammation is generally
caused by chemical irritation from sebum components such as fatty free
acids.
Nodule or Cyst. Large and usually very painful, nodules
are inflamed, pus-filled lesions lodged deep within the
skin. Nodules develop when the contents of a comedo
have spilled into the surrounding skin and the local
immune system responds, producing pus. The most severe form of acne
lesion, nodules may persist for weeks or months, their contents
hardening into a deep cyst. Both nodules and cysts often leave deep
scars.
Acne conglobata. This rare but serious form of inflammatory acne
develops primarily on the back, buttocks and chest. In addition to the
presence of pustules and nodules, there may be severe bacterial
infection.
If you’re a teen
suffering from acne, you’re certainly not being singled out. At least
90% of adolescents have acne — it affects teens of every size and
shape, in every country from America to Zimbabwe. A recent study by
the American Medical Association revealed (not surprisingly) that acne
is one of today’s teenagers’ biggest worries. “Acne can, without
question, affect self-esteem,” says Diane Berson, MD, Assistant Clinical
Professor of Dermatology at New York University School of Medicine.
“Some kids have it so severely that they don’t even want to go out of
their house. They make excuses for not going to social functions.”1
It seems unfair, doesn’t it? Just when you’re beginning to grow up and
get some ideas about exactly who’s behind the face in your mirror,
you’re staring at a minefield of bumps and blemishes. It can be
downright depressing — but since everyone has acne, you’re supposed
to suck it up and suffer through it… right? Wrong! Today we know
more about fighting acne than ever before. And the best way to stop
acne is to find out why it starts when it does — during adolescence.
Get rid of your acne with Proactiv® Solution - GO NOW!
Why does acne strike teens? At the onset of puberty, the body
begins to produce hormones called androgens. These “male” hormones
are a natural part of development for both boys and girls, but boys
tend to produce more of them — and therefore tend to have more
severe breakouts. Why? Our faces and bodies are covered with tiny
hairs, each one fitting snugly into a hair follicle, sometimes called a
pore. Deep within each follicle, oil glands are hard at work producing
sebum, which travels up the hair and out onto the surface of your skin.
Sebum’s job is to form a protective layer between your skin and the
world, keeping it soft and smooth.
But when androgens enter the picture, your oil glands go into
overdrive. They produce extra oil, which can clump together with the
dead skin cells on the top layer of your skin. When this sticky mixture
finds its way into your pores, it acts just like a cork in a bottle —
trapping oil and bacteria inside. Unfortunately, your oil glands just
don’t know when to stop; they keep producing oil, and the follicle
becomes swollen. Your body’s natural defense system, white blood
cells, rush to the area to clean up the mess. The result? Red, painful
bumps. Yucky black spots. Zits. Blackheads. Pimples. Acne. It has
nothing to do with what you eat, or how often you wash your face.
How can I strike back against teen acne? The best way to zap zits
is to prevent them from showing up in the first place! Following are a
few simple practices than can help you minimize your breakouts.
A Tip on Avoiding Teen Acne - Keep it clean. Since teenagers
produce more oil, it’s important to wash twice a day with warm water
and a mild cleanser. Since your skin does need some sebum in order
to stay healthy, don’t be tempted to overwash; your glands could pay
you back by producing more oil.
Teen Acne Advice - Skip harsh scrubs. It's okay to exfoliate, but be
sure to use a gentle formula with small, smooth grains. Avoid products
with almond or apricot shell fragments; they can irritate or even tear
your skin and further aggravate your acne.
Avoiding Teen Acne - Say no to alcohol. If you use a toner, avoid
products with high concentrations of isopropyl alcohol, or common
rubbing alcohol. Alcohol strips the top layer of your skin, causing your
glands to produce more oil. The result? Dry, flaky skin — and possibly
more blemishes.
Ways to Avoid Teen Acne - Don't squeeze or pick. Squeezing or
picking your blemishes with fingernails, pins or anything else can force
bacteria deeper into the skin. This can cause greater inflammation and
infection, increasing the chances that your pimple will leave a
permanent scar. Remember, a zit that’s bugging you today will go
away if treated properly; if you pick at it, it may stick around forever.
Being Smart about Teen Acne - Hands off! The bacteria that
causes acne, Propionibacterium acnes, hangs out on your skin all the
time; it doesn't lead to acne until it gets trapped inside the hair follicle.
Touching your face, including rubbing or even resting your chin in your
hands, can drive bacteria into your pores — where it can begin its
dirtywork.
Dealing with Teen Acne - Choose products wisely. If you wear
make-up, be sure it’s oil-free and non-comedogenic — that means it
won’t clog your pores and make your breakouts worse. The same goes
for your sunscreen and even your hair products; sticky sprays, gels
and pomades can aggravate acne, too.
Getting Ahead of Teen Acne - Be smart about sun. If you think
tanning helps your acne, you’re right — and wrong. Small amounts of
sun exposure may improve acne for a few days. But suntans (and
burns) also make you shed your dead skin cells faster, so in the long
run, you’ll end up with more clogged pores. And that means more
acne. Another thing you should know: some kinds of acne medication
make skin more sensitive to the sun. So if you’re headed outside in
sunny weather, be sure to slather up with sunscreen. Look for sun
protection products that are oil-free and have a “sun protection factor”
(or SPF) of at least 15 for both UVA and UVB rays.
Avoiding Teen Acne - Accessorize wisely. Heat and friction
(rubbing) can cause acne flare-ups. So steer clear of hats and
headbands — and if your sports team requires you to wear a helmet or
any other equipment that might rub against your skin, try lining it with
a layer of clean, soft cotton. And remember to shower immediately
after exercising — don’t sit around in a sweaty uniform, no matter how
cool you look.
Teen Acne Treatment - Find a regimen and stick with it. Most
cases of mild acne can be improved with "over-the-counter" products,
or products that don't require a prescription from your doctor. There is
a wide range of treatments available, and there’s a good chance one of
them will work for you. If you start treatment before your acne gets
severe, you’ll have a better chance of avoiding physical and emotional
problems down the road. But if your acne gets worse or lasts more
than a couple of weeks, see a dermatologist. Here's a quick listing of
the most common products used to treat acne — click on the links that
interest you for more information on that course of treatment.
• Benzoyl Peroxide: Kills the bacteria that causes acne.
• Proactiv® Solution: A dermatologist formulated Combination Therapy® acne
management system. Click Here and receive 2 free bonuses when you try Proactiv®
Solution Risk-Free for 60 Days!
• Salicylic Acid: Unclogs your pores and encourages skin renewal.
• Tretinoin (Retin-A®): Promotes healthy sloughing.
• Antibiotics: Kill bacteria and reduces inflammation.
• Oral Contraceptives: Help regulate hormone levels.
• Anti-Androgens: Inhibit the body's production of acne-causing
hormones.
• Isotretinoin (Accutane®): Treatment for severe cystic or nodular
acne.
Relax — it’s not your fault. The most important thing to remember
about acne is that it’s not your fault. You didn’t make your face break
out by eating too many french fries, wearing make-up or daydreaming
about your crush. Now you know a few of the things that can
aggravate acne in teenagers. But since acne is different for everyone,
you should watch your own skin carefully for things that trigger
breakouts — and avoid them. If your acne still hangs around, see a
doctor
Why the sudden interest in adult acne? It’s difficult to know for sure
exactly why adult acne seems to be on the rise. In their 1999 study
"Prevalence of facial acne in adults," Goulden and Cunliffe found that the
mean age of patients treated for acne had increased significantly over
the course of a decade, from 20.5 years to 26.5 years.1 This could mean
one of two things: Either more adults are getting acne, or more adults
are seeking treatment for their acne. One can make a compelling case
for either statement — but most likely both are true. While some recent
studies have suggested that incidences of adult acne are increasing,
others suggest that adults (particularly women) are simply more
concerned about their skin than they used to be.
1 Goulden V, Stables GI and Cunliffe WJC, “Prevalence of facial acne in adults,” Journal of the American Academy of
Dermatology, October 1999, pp 577–580.
2 Barnes JE, “Acne: No Longer Just a Market for Teenagers,” New York Times, Business Section, April 27, 2001
Is your acne really acne? If you’re over thirty, have fair skin that
flushes or blushes easily and have had a bad reaction to acne
medication, your problem may not be acne at all. Frequently mistaken
for acne, rosacea affects one in twenty adult Caucasians – yet a recent
Gallup survey showed that nearly 80% of people surveyed were
unfamiliar with the condition. Symptoms include skin redness and
swelling in the areas that typically flush when we’re excited or
embarrassed; telangiectases (the appearance of broken blood
vessels), and, occasionally, acne-like papules and pustules. For this
reason, rosacea is often misdiagnosed as acne and treated with acne
medications. While these courses of treatment may have some
success, there are treatments that target rosacea specifically that may
have better results.
It’s not acne! Scientists are unsure what causes rosacea, but they do
know that it differs from acne in one important way. Unlike acne,
which is a condition of the sebaceous hair follicles, rosacea is a
condition that involves both the skin and the blood vessels. Says Vic
Narurkarm M.D., Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the
University of California at Davis: “Blood vessels in people with rosacea
seem to dilate easily, causing a flushing response to any number of
triggering factors. After years of frequent dilation, it’s thought that the
blood vessels ‘wear out’ and stay dilated permanently.”1 For this
reason, it’s important to treat this condition properly – or risk
permanent damage to the skin.
Understand your triggers. Like any skin condition, rosacea is
different for everyone – so first step in treatment is to identify your
personal triggers. Flushing triggers vary widely between individuals,
but studies have identified a number of common foods and situations
that can bring on the flush response. These may include: cheese,
chocolate, vanilla, alcohol, spicy foods, hot beverages, spicy foods,
sunlight, cold winds, stress, steroids, vigorous exercise and alcohol-
based skin products. Since prevention is the best medicine for rosacea,
it’s important for sufferers of this condition to be aware of diet, habits
and surroundings. If you think a particular food, skin product or
lifestyle issue may be triggering your flushes, try discontinuing it for a
few weeks; if your flushing subsides, it’s a good idea to eschew it
altogether.
Find the right treatments. Of course, it’s difficult to pinpoint every
single thing that affects your rosacea. So when you do have flushing,
blushing or breakouts, be sure to treat them as rosacea, not as acne.
The acne-like lesions can be treated with topical and oral antibiotics,
which stem the profusion of the bacteria p. acnes as well as demodex
mites, which are five times more prevalent in patients with rosacea as
in those who don’t have the condition. Topical antifungal agents, such
as metronidazole, are also quite helpful. There are also a wide variety
of pulsed dye lasers that can reduce the redness of telangiectases, or
broken blood vessels. Most importantly, just be kind to your skin; use
a gentle cleanser without alcohol or exfoliating grains.
If you think you may have rosacea, see a dermatologist right away.
While there is no known cure for this condition, it is treatable – and
early treatment will help prevent permanent damage to your skin.
1 McCarthy L, “Flush and Blush: Understanding Rosacea,” Healthy Skin & Hair, Fall 1999, pp. 6–7
PREVENTION > Hygiene
Acne Prevention - Tip #1: Don't over-wash. Since dirt is not causing
your acne, excessive scrubbing and washing won't make it go away. Try
to limit yourself to two washings per day — anything more than that can
leave your healthy skin dry, and your acne-prone areas irritated.
Habitual over-washing may also stimulate extra oil production, which
could result in more breakouts.
Acne Prevention - Tip #2: Skip harsh scrubs. It's okay to exfoliate,
but be sure to use a gentle formula with small, smooth grains. Avoid
products with almond or apricot shell fragments; they can irritate or
even tear your skin and further aggravate your acne.
Acne Prevention - Tip #3: Say no to alcohol. If you use a toner,
avoid products with high concentrations of isopropyl alcohol, or common
rubbing alcohol. A strong astringent, alcohol strips the top layer of your
skin, causing your sebaceous glands to produce more oil. The result?
Dry, red skin — and possibly more blemishes.
Acne Prevention - Tip #4: Don't squeeze or pick. Squeezing or
picking your blemishes — with fingernails, pins or anything else — can
force bacteria deeper into the skin, causing greater inflammation and
infection. You'll also increase the damage to the surrounding skin, so the
blemish is more likely to leave a permanent acne scar.
Acne Prevention - Tip #5: Hands off! Propionibacterium acnes (the
bacteria that causes breakouts) is a normal resident of your skin; it
doesn't lead to acne until it gets trapped inside the hair follicle. Excessive
doesn't lead to acne until it gets trapped inside the hair follicle. Excessive
touching of your face, including rubbing or even resting your chin in your
hands, can drive bacteria into your pores — where it can begin its
dirtywork.
Acne Prevention - Tip #6: Work out, wash off. When you exercise,
your movement generates heat; clothing and equipment cause friction.
Until you shower off, heat and moisture are trapped against your skin,
creating an ideal breeding ground for the spread of bacteria. So
whenever you can, shower off immediately after exercising.
Acne Prevention Treatment - Find a regimen and stick with it.
Most cases of mild acne can be improved with "over-the-counter"
products, or products that don't require a prescription from your doctor.
There is a wide range of treatments available, and there’s a good chance
one of them will work for you. If you start treatment before your acne
gets severe, you’ll have a better chance of avoiding physical and
emotional problems down the road. But if your acne gets worse or lasts
more than a couple of weeks, see a dermatologist. Here's a quick listing
of the most common products used to treat acne — click on the links
that interest you for more information on that course of acne treatment.
• Benzoyl Peroxide: Kills the bacteria that causes acne.
• Proactiv® Solution: A dermatologist formulated Combination Therapy® acne
management system. Click Here and receive 2 free bonuses when you try Proactiv®
Solution Risk-Free for 60 Days!
• Salicylic Acid: Unclogs your pores and encourages skin renewal.
• Tretinoin (Retin-A®): Promotes healthy sloughing.
• Antibiotics: Kill bacteria and reduces inflammation.
• Oral Contraceptives: Help regulate hormone levels.
• Anti-Androgens: Inhibit the body's production of acne-causing
hormones.
• Isotretinoin (Accutane®): Treatment for severe cystic or nodular acne.
1 Woods La-Voie P, “The ABCs of skincare for kids,” Better Nutrition, No. 9, Vol. 63, p. 32
Is your lifestyle causing your acne? Certainly not. But the way you live
affects your whole body, including its largest organ: the skin. The
place you work, the hours you keep, the ways you play — all of these
can take a toll on the epidermis, especially in those who are prone to
acne. Following are a few everyday acne triggers you might not be
aware of, and a few things you can do to avoid them.
Acne & Shaving - Warm it up. Before you begin shaving, prep the
area with warm water. The hydration makes your skin more pliable; the
heat will dilate your blood vessels, bringing blood flow to the area. Some
people find that shaving in the shower brings better results.
Acne & Shaving - Lather well. Pseudofolliculitis barbae can also be
diminished by using the right shaving cream. Thinner, more filmy
shaving creams help the razor glide over the skin, reducing irritation.
Acne & Shaving - Use the right razor. If you can, use an electric
razor. The shave won't be as close, but you probably won't break out. If
you prefer blade shaving, use a new single-blade razor each time you
shave. Why single? Double-and triple-edged blades lift the hair out of
the follicle for a shave that is actually below the epidermis. As part of the
skin's natural healing process, the epidermis grows over the opening of
the follicle. Then, as the hair grows back, it has to fight to get out of the
closed follicle — causing an inflammatory response.
Acne & Shaving - Go with the grain. The closer your shave, the more
likely you are to get shaving bumps. So try to get into the habit of
shaving with the grain — for both men and women, this usually means
shaving down rather than up. This will cut down on irritation and may
help with nicks and cuts, too.
Acne & Shaving - Tone up. When you're done, you may want to apply
a mild alcohol-free toner (witch hazel is a gentle alternative) or
antibacterial gel; this will kill bacteria before it gets into the open follicles
— and help you stop Pseudofolliculitis barbae before it starts. Both
benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are available in gel form as well.
For most people, these simple practices go a long way toward the
prevention of Pseudofolliculitis barbae. If your shaving bumps persist,
prevention of Pseudofolliculitis barbae. If your shaving bumps persist,
consult your dermatologist; he or she may be able to prescribe a more
aggressive topical acne treatment.
Contributing Doctor
Dr. Sherwin Parikh
A Board Certified member of the American Academy of Dermatology, Dr.Parikh is also an Assistant Clinical Professor
of Dermatology at New York Presbyterian Medical Center. Dr. Parikh has contributed to numerous print publications
and news shows. He is the founder of the Tribeca Skin Center, New York City's first paperless private practice
dermatology office
www.tribecaskincenter.com.
Cosmetic Acne & Skin Care - Seven rules for a clean beauty
routine. With so many products making so many claims, it’s easy to be
confused by clever marketing. Fortunately, just a bit of education can
get you on the path to choosing the proper cosmetics and using them
wisely. Here are seven good rules to follow for a healthy make-up
regimen:
1. Avoid penetrating oils. Contrary to popular belief, not all oils are
comedogenic. Petroleum products, mineral oil and sunflower oil do not
penetrate into the pore. Most cosmetic oils, however, can aggravate acne
— so it’s best to avoid them. One of the most common acne triggers in
skin products, especially lotions and sunscreens, is lanolin, a fatty acid
extracted from sheep’s wool. Isopropyl Myristate, which promotes
smooth, even application in many foundations, is such an aggressive
penetrator that it’s the main ingredient in most rust-removers! In
general, products labeled “oil-free” and "non-comedogenic" are less
likely to clog your pores and trigger breakouts.
2. Steer clear of sweet smells. Fragrance is a major cause of allergic
and irritant reactions on the face. Even products that claim to be
"unscented" may include fragrances added to mask the smell of other
ingredients. It’s best to stick with products labeled as “fragrance-free” or
“hypo-allergenic.” Of course, reactions to fragrance differ dramatically,
and you may find certain perfumes that don’t affect your skin. The most
common offenders are fragrances in the ambrette, bergamot, cinnamate
and musk families. If the derivatives of your favorite face cream or
foundation’s scent are not easily determined from the product label, try
foundation’s scent are not easily determined from the product label, try
a patch test on the skin behind your ear. If no irritation appears after
three days of repeated application, you may continue usage on a larger
area.
3. Be smart about shadow and blush. The stuff that puts the sparkle
in your eye shadow, face powder and blush is usually mica, a common
mineral. The jagged, flaky shape of mica particles can cause irritation
and/or clogging in the follicle, so it’s best to use products without too
much shimmer. Likewise, many of the red dyes used to put a bloom in
your cheeks are coal tar derivatives; not surprisingly, these substances
are comedogenic, too. Check the labels for blushes that use carmine,
which has been a natural, healthy cosmetic colorant since the time of the
Aztecs. Also, cream blushes are more likely to have comedogenic
ingredients, so stick to powder or gel blushes.
4. Get wise to eye creams. Because of the delicacy of the skin around
the eyes, creams created for this area are often thicker and greasier
than regular facial moisturizers. Heavy eye creams and oily eye make-up
removers can promote milia, tiny white cysts under the eyes. These
kinds of products can also migrate to neighboring areas, creating acne
on the cheeks, temples and forehead.
5. Style your hair with care. Most hair products are full of the
ingredients we’d like to keep away from our skin: alcohol, adhesives and
oils. So if you’re prone to acne, use care when styling your hair — cover
your skin when you spray, and try to keep oils, mousses, gels and
pomades away from the skin at the hairline. And don’t use hair products
when you exercise; perspiration from your scalp can carry styling
products onto your skin, contributing to new breakouts.
6. Wash after exercising. While we know that sweat doesn’t cause
acne, it can promote it in those who are prone — and make-up can make
matters worse. Even non-comedogenic products can cause clogging or
irritation in the presence of heavy perspiration. As a rule, it’s best to
wash immediately after exercising with a medicated exfoliating cleanser.
7. Use the right lip lube. If you have problems with pimples around
the mouth area, you might want to reconsider the products you use on
your lips. Lipsticks and glosses are greasy by nature, with high
concentrations of petroleum, wax and other comedogenic substances.
The greater the shine, the greater the potential for pore-clogging — so if
you're breaking out, try going for a matte finish rather than a high gloss.
In general, it’s fine to doll up! Just choose your cosmetics carefully —
look for products that are oil-free and non-comedogenic. Read labels
carefully to avoid common topical triggers. And of course, use your
common sense; if a product that looks okay on the label is irritating your
skin, discontinue usage right away
skin, discontinue usage right away
• Adult-onset acne, or breakouts that appear for the first time in adults
• Acne flare-ups preceding the menstrual cycle
• A history of irregular menstrual cycles
• Increased facial oiliness
• Hirsutism (excessive growth of hair, or hair in unusual places)
• Elevated levels of certain androgens in the blood stream
While hormonally influenced acne typically begins around age 20–25, it
can strike teens and mature women as well, and is most persistent in
women over the age of 30. These patients usually experience lesions on
the lower face, especially the chin and the jaw line. While some may
have breakouts on the chest and back, most have blemishes exclusively
on the face. Hormonally-influenced acne is usually moderate and limited
to inflammatory papules and small inflammatory nodules and occasional
comedones. But how does it start?
Adult Hormonal Acne - Puberty: Where it all begins. Starting
sometime before adolescence (around the age of nine or ten) the
adrenal glands begin to produce dihydroepiandrosterone sulfate
(DHEAS), an androgen. Other androgens — the "male" hormones at
work in a woman's body — such as testosterone and
dehydrotestosterone (DHT), join in at the onset of puberty. All of these
dehydrotestosterone (DHT), join in at the onset of puberty. All of these
hormones stimulate the sebaceous glands to secrete more of the skin's
natural oil, or sebum. This is why oily skin and acne are so prevalent
among teenagers. Naturally, since boys have more "male" hormones,
teen acne tends to be more severe in males.
The treatment of acne in teenagers can be challenging, because their
hormones are in a constant state of flux. They may initially respond very
well to first-line treatments, such as topical retinoids and benzoyl
peroxide, perhaps accompanied by an oral antibiotic. As their bodies
develop, however, they may undergo severe hormonal shifts — and stop
responding to the current medications. Courses of acne treatment may
need to be adjusted more often with teenagers to accommodate these
hormonal changes. More about teen acne.
Adult Hormonal Acne - A vicious cycle. Many women pass into
adulthood without "outgrowing" their acne. Others may not develop it
until their 20s or 30s, experiencing persistent breakouts the week before
their period. Why? During the course of a normal menstrual cycle (if a
woman is not taking any kind of hormonal birth control pill), estrogen
levels peak at mid-cycle, then decline as she nears her period. After
ovulation, the ovaries begin to produce progesterone, another hormone
which stimulates the sebaceous glands. And with the extra oil comes
acne. Hormones are also responsible for acne in a percentage of
pregnant women, as well; the sebaceous glands go into high gear during
the third trimester, causing oily skin and frequent breakouts. Some
women even experience acne after menopause, when estrogen levels
begin to taper off and testosterone becomes the dominant hormone.
Adult Hormonal Acne - What can be done? According to Dr. Shalita,
the "wait and see" attitude is particularly inef
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For patients who suffer from moderate to severe acne, doctors may
prescribe a combination of topical remedies and oral antibiotics. The
most common oral medications used to treat acne are tetracycline,
minocycline, doxycycline and erythromycin.
Antibiotics for Acne - HOW THEY WORK
Like Benzoyl Peroxide, antibiotics control breakouts by curbing the
body’s production of
P. acnes, the bacteria that causes acne, and decreasing inflammation.
This process may take several weeks or months, so be patient. And
remember, you’re not “cured” just because your breakouts have
subsided. That’s the medicine doing its job — so if you stop taking it,
your acne will probably come back. Likewise, doubling up on your
medication won’t make your skin clear up twice as fast. Using your
topical antibiotics more frequently than prescribed may actually induce
greater follicular irritation and plugging, which slows clearing time.
And taking your oral medications more often than prescribed won’t
help your skin clear faster — but it will increase your chance of
experiencing unpleasant side effects.
Antibiotics for Acne - WHERE TO GET THEM
If you have moderate to severe acne, consult your dermatologist; he
or she will discuss your options and help you make the best choice.
Once you’ve begun treatment, give it time to start working. Keep your
doctor apprised of your progress, so he or she can make changes to
the course of treatment if necessary. And again, don’t stop using your
medication when your skin clears — let your doctor make that call.
Antibiotics for Acne - COMMON SIDE EFFECTS
With most of the antibiotics used to treat acne, side effects may
include photosensitivity (higher risk of sunburn), upset stomach,
dizziness or lightheadedness, hives, lupus-like symptoms and skin
discoloration. Some women report a higher incidence of vaginal yeast
infection while taking antibiotics; these can usually be treated with
over-the-counter antifungal medication or a prescription antifungal,
such as diflucan. Tetracycline is not given to pregnant women or
children under 12 years of age because it can discolor developing
teeth. Lastly (and least common), because doxycycline is also the
treatment of choice for Lyme disease, there is the theoretical
possibility that a patient who takes this medication for a long period of
time would build a resistance, and therefore be unable to fight Lyme
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Irritation: Children are more likely to get skin irritation from salicylic
acid. If you experience mild irritation, try decreasing the frequency of
use. If irritation is severe or persists even with infrequent application,
discontinue use.
Contributing Doctors
Dr. Kathy Fields and Dr. Katie Rodan
Leading dermatologists with successful private practices specializing in acne treatments, dermatologic surgery, and
cosmetic surgery. After their medical internships, both doctors completed their residencies in Dermatology at
Stanford University School of Medicine. Both are board certified before the American Board of Dermatology. In
addition, they share their skills through teaching: Dr. Rodan is an Adjunct Clinical Assistant Professor, Dermatology,
Stanford University School of Medicine; Dr Fields is Clinical Instructor of Dermatology at the University of California
in San Francisco.
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Light wave therapy uses a high-intensity blue light that is passed over
the skin. Blue light therapy has been available for approximately three
years, and was originally approved by the Food and Drug Administration
as a cancer treatment. It is not approved to fight acne, but studies are
currently under way
There are a growing number of people who choose herbal acne
treatments over traditional medications. However, it should be kept in
mind that herbal treatments are not required to be clinically proven to
work, and concerns of safety can be triggered. Therefore, the value of
these treatments may be unknown or unverifiable. Herbal remedies
are available in many forms including supplements, teas, and oils or
creams that can be either applied topically to the skin or taken orally.
Affecting nearly everyone at some time in their lives, acne is the most
widespread skin condition in the world. Yet despite a gradual raising of
awareness about acne, there are still an astonishing number of acne
“myths” clouding public perception. These untruths are passed down
from one family member to another, mentioned by a friend in passing
and occasionally published in beauty magazines.
What’s the harm in a little folk wisdom, you ask? For most people, not
much. But for those who suffer from persistent acne, these seeds of
misinformation can blossom into a bigger skin problem, leading them to
misinformation can blossom into a bigger skin problem, leading them to
practices that can actually make their acne worse. This section of
acne.com is intended to dispel the most common of these myths, and
help you get on course to the proper treatment.
Acne Myths & Claims - Acne is caused by dirt.
Wrong! Acne is caused a number of things, but dirt isn’t one of them.
Blemishes form when dead skin cells mix with your body’s natural oil,
forming a plug in the tiny hair follicles commonly called pores. This has
nothing to do with dirt, so overwashing your face or body (more than 2–
3 times per day) will not make your acne better. In fact, too much
washing or the over-use of harsh scrubs and “pore strips” can actually
strip the skin of the oil it needs to stay soft and pliable. The result? Dry,
flaky skin that may actually produce more oil. More about causes and
hygiene.
Acne Myths & Claims - Acne is for teenagers — you’ll grow out of
it.
This myth is harmful in several ways. First, it can lead teenagers to “wait
it out” instead of seeking treatment for their acne; this can result in
plummeting self-esteem and in severe cases of acne, scarring. Second,
this myth can cause further alienation in adults who suffer from acne.
They may feel too embarrassed to seek treatment, wondering “Why do I
still have acne? What am I doing wrong?” The truth is, acne can strike at
any age; it’s not your fault. And while it is treatable, the course and
duration of treatment differ dramatically for each person. More about
teen and adult acne.
Acne Myths & Claims - Acne is just a cosmetic condition.
Yes, acne does affect the way people look — it’s not a serious threat to a
person’s physical health. But it can also affect the way you feel about
yourself and the world around you, causing low self-esteem and even
depression. And after it’s gone, acne can leave permanent physical and
emotional scars. Don’t let anyone discourage you from seeking
treatment because your acne’s just “a little problem.” The sooner you
consult with a professional, the sooner you’ll get on the path to clear
skin. More about the emotional effects of acne.
Acne Myths & Claims - Spot treatment works.
Unfortunately, this just isn’t true. For more than 30 years, over-the-
counter products have been making the claim that a dab of medicine
directly on the pimple will clear up acne. Since blemishes take 2–3
weeks to develop, you’re treating an old symptom of the problem rather
than the problem itself. The best way to treat acne is to stop the
blemishes from developing in the first place — which means treating the
whole face or area every day, even when you don’t have blemishes.
Acne Myths & Claims - Certain foods cause acne.
No, those french fries you had yesterday didn’t give you new zits today.
In fact, scientists have been unable to find ANY substantial connection
between diet and acne. So all the foods you’ve been afraid of — pizza,
french fries, chocolate — are fine. Of course, that doesn’t mean you
should binge on your favorites whenever you want — a healthy diet will
help your body have the strength to help you in your fight against acne.
So use your common sense, but don’t be afraid to indulge now and then.
More about diet.
Acne Myths & Claims - Make-up causes acne.
Most make-ups today are non-comedogenic, which means they won’t
clog your pores. When shopping for cosmetics, look for products that are
non-comedogenic, oil-free (water-based) and hypoallergenic (no added
fragrance). Please note that strenuous exercise can cause any make-up,
even the right kinds, to migrate across the skin and into the pores — so
forego heavy cosmetics when you work out. More about cosmetics.
Acne Myths & Claims - Acne is caused by too much sex.
It’s true that androgens, the hormones all of us begin producing during
puberty, are one of acne’s main contributing factors. While these and
other hormones may initiate sex drive, your sexual habits have no effect
on acne. More about hormones.
Acne Myths & Claims - Antibiotics reduce the effects of oral
contraceptives.
For many years, doctors believed that combining oral contraceptives with
certain antibiotics reduced the effectiveness of birth control pills,
increasing the risk of pregnancy. A review of a large number of
dermatology patients failed to find a increased rate of pregnancy in
women who were being treated with a combination of oral contraceptives
and oral antibiotics. So while you should always consult with your
doctor(s) before combining drugs, don't let this medical "old wives' tale"
prevent you from finding the right balance of acne medications. For more
detailed information on oral contraceptives, see A Clinical Guide for
Contraception; Third Edition, Leon Speroff, MD, and Philip, Darney, MD.
Published by Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.1
Acne Myths & Claims - Sweating cleans out your pores.
While working out is an important part of a healthy lifestyle, it can cause
flare-ups for some people. Vigorous exercise stimulates oil production,
which combines with heat, perspiration and friction to aggravate acne on
the forehead, chest and back. You can minimize irritation by wearing
loose cotton clothing and by showering immediately after exercising.
Swimming is probably the best form of exercise for acne sufferers; in
water, perspiration, heat and friction are largely out of the picture. Just
make sure you don’t sit around in a wet swimsuit, as this can cause
make sure you don’t sit around in a wet swimsuit, as this can cause
breakouts on your behind. More about exercise.
Acne Myths & Claims - Sun exposure helps acne.
Wrong! The “Bronze Age” is over! Minimal amounts of sun exposure may
initially improve the appearance of acne — as the skin darkens,
blemishes may be less noticeable. But prolonged exposure promotes
more rapid exfoliation of dead skin cells, so you’re more likely to get
clogged pores. In addition, acne’s unsightly souvenirs, post-
inflammatory hyperpigmentation and macules, will actually get darker if
you spend time in the sun. Over time, sun damages the skin and
increases the likelihood that your acne will leave scars. And of course,
sun exposure dramatically increases your chances of getting some form
of skin cancer. So play it safe and use sun protection products that are
oil-free and have a “sun protection factor” (or SPF) of at least 15 for
both UVA and UVB rays.
Acne Myths & Claims - Scrubbing and toning the skin stops acne.
Since acne is not caused by dirt, excessive washing won’t make it go
away. Harsh over-the-counter exfoliants using apricot pits or walnut
shells can actually irritate or tear the skin, increasing the chances of
infection and more breakouts. Likewise, alcohol-based toners can strip
the skin of necessary oils, leaving it dry and irritated — and more likely
to start producing more oil. For best results, use a gentle medicated
scrub and a mild alcohol-free toner; witch hazel is a gentle alternative.
More about hygiene.
Acne Myths & Claims - Stress causes acne.
This claim is exaggerated, but based in reality. While stress does not
cause acne, it can trigger flare-ups. When the body encounters stress, it
steps up production of cortisol, which causes the sebaceous glands to
produce more oil. Individual stress response varies dramatically, so it’s
difficult to gauge “typical” effects on the skin. Remember, even "good"
stress — the excitement of planning a wedding or anticipation of moving
away from home for the first time — can trigger a stress response. The
best course of action is to keep tabs on your own personal response, and
to try to make time every day for the things that make you feel relaxed
and happy. More about stress.
Acne Myths & Claims - Acne is curable.
Not yet. But don’t lose hope — it is highly treatable. The best way to
treat acne is to prevent blemishes from happening, so if your breakouts
seem to be sticking around, see a dermatologist right away. There are a
wide range of treatments available, so there’s a good chance that you’ll
be able to find one that works for you. Just remember this: Even if your
blemishes go away, your acne is not cured. It’s important to be diligent
about your treatment plan, even after your skin is clear. More about
about your treatment plan, even after your skin is clear. More about
acne treatments.
1 Speroff L and Darney P, A Clinical Guide for Contraception; Third Edition, pages 97–98, Lippincott Williams &
Wilkins.