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There is no definitive method for building a period corset. The method chosen is based on the
use for which the corset is being built and to some extent the materials being used. Corsets
were made by a multitude of people and most corset makers developed their own techniques.

Consider some important questions before you decide which method to use.

î | Will the corset or bodice, get worn only by one person or will it be used for other
productions, on other people or for costume rental?
2 |
s the corset for one person who hopes to get a few years of wear out of it?

xf you answer "Yes" to each of the above then you need to build a garment that can be altered
as easily as possible.

The first method x will describe is for an "alterable" corset or boned bodice using two layers
of ÷
, the second method will be for an "alterable" corset or boned bodice using only one
layer of ÷
 and  ÷
. The third method will explain my favorite

technique that creates a corset with a perfectly finished interior but is not alterable. x will
conclude by explaining briefly how to make any of the above in a fashion fabric.

Note: Your bone casing stitching will be seen on the outside of all three techniques. Only the
4th Technique, which involves fashion fabric, does not have stitches evident on the finished
garment.


 

àuilding an "alterable" corset using two layers of ÷
This results in a much more
structured garment and one which will withstand a great deal of wear if built properly. xt
takes the same amount of time to build a garment of poor fabric as it does to build one from
good fabric.

î | ut four of each pattern piece, îleft outer layer, î right outer layer, î left inside layer and
î ʹ right inside layer of ÷


Note: you may choose to use a basic herringbone ÷
 for the inside layer and a
more attractive satin or brocade ÷
 for the outer layer, if so just cut 2 of each
pattern piece in each fabric.

xnside layer is the "lining" and outside layer is the "shell".

2 | ayout the pieces in order, on a table ay them out so that you have each pattern piece side
by side as they would be sewn together Each "pattern piece" should consist of two layers;
the inside layer and the outside layer and these should be wrong side to wrong side  





3 | Îark the top piece of each "set" in the seam allowance so that you know which piece is
which
tend to lay the shell side facing the table and the lining side facing up
start with
the back piece on the left and call it number î, then
number each piece consecutively after
that Each number goes in the top seam allowance as shown in the 
 

Note: x always start with the piece on the far left and work to the right, just to stay
organized because it is so easy to get the pieces of a Victorian corset mixed up and
even upside down. Other time periods are not as confusing but x tend to like methods
which don¶t require me to think as much and lend them selves to the least opportunity
for error.

 | *ick up the piece "set" on the far left, it should be a back panel he back pieces get treated
slightly differently as do the front pieces if you are using an opening O

f you have
followed the above directions then the two pieces you have just picked up are the back
panel shell and lining and they are on top of one another with wrong sides together hange
this so that the back pieces are right sides together and stitch along the centre back seam
line twice *ress the seam open Now, close the two pieces together so that the wrong sides
are face to face and press the centre back seam flat Stitch îth inch from the pressed edge
Stitch along the side seam line to hold the two layers in place, you can also stitch along the
bottom but leave the top edge open Serge both the side seam and bottom 


below
] | he front panels are handled much the same way but the O
 must be inserted *ick up one
front set, place the lining and shell right sides together, matching any notches ay your busk
with the "loops" in place along the centre front seam line  

 below Softly trace
the outline of the busk and mark where the "loops" need to protrude through the centre
seam line 
Stitch the centre front seam line, leaving open spots at each "loop" marking
Back stitch before and after each opening
t is important that this seam is well stitched B

*ress the seam open, fold the layers back so that the wrong sides are face to face and press
the seam closed. Top stitch 1/8th inch from the edge, but avoid stitching through the gaps
where the loops will have to come through. (C) Slide the busk loops through the gaps and
push the busk firmly into place. Using a zipper foot stitch around the busk. (D) You may
wish to pin the fabrics together. Stitch and serge the side edge and bottom and leave the top
edge open.  

above.

Return the back and front panels to their place on the table.

w | Now continue with the other piece "sets" *ick up the next set on the left
t should be a
shell layer and a lining layer with wrong sides together You may wish to pin the two layers
together Be sure the pieces match and are wrong side to wrong side ake them to your
sewing machine and stitch down both sides and across the bottom, just outside the seam
line within the seam allowance
eave the top edge open as you will need to access the
soon to be created O  ÷
 Repeat this step with each "set" of pieces, returning each
to its place on the table

7 | Serge the same edges of each piece, still leaving the top edge open

 | Îark the bone casings onto the lining pieces, "right side" as the wrong side is against the
shell fabric race them from the pattern pieces using a tracing wheel and subtly contrasting
dress makers carbon Or use 
  
÷

9 | Once you have marked all the bone casings take each piece to the sewing machine and make
the casings by stitching along each marked line Note:
f any of the marked lines is along the
seam line then you need not stitch it as it will get stitched when you sew the pieces
together

î | ll pieces are now "u

 " together and the bone casings are complete Now pin each piece
to the next piece in the correct order! Be sure that notches match Stitch each seam twice
using two different stitch lengths, example:  and î2 stitches to the inch he different
lengths assure that the stitches will not be directly on top of each other, which increases
strength Do not use stitches much smaller than î2 as it makes it very difficult to rip out
when alterations are required Note:
f you wish to test the fit of the garment then stitch the
seams only once and with a longer stitch length Fit the garment, make the adjustments and
then double stitch all seams as described above

îî | Once all the pieces are sewn together, check that everything looks right and that you do not
have one piece upside down, press all seams open
f you wish you can cross tack the seam
allowance down

Time for the  

. Regardless of the type of   you are using the next steps remain the
same

î2 | Îeasure the length of the bone channelscasing Subtract at least ½ an inch from this
measurement and cut the bone to this length
t is imperative that the bone be at least ½ an
inch shorter than the casing and even ¾" shorter is good, in fact it may be better
f the bone
is not shorter, holes will result at either end of the casing where the bone ends rub
tend to
measure one length and cut one length rather than measure all and cut all, it saves my
hands and it saves confusion as each piece gets slid into its casing as soon as it is cut

he bones can be slid into their casings from the top edge
 Depending on the type of bone you choose, you may have to  the cut ends ipping
instructions can be found under "ips & echniques"

î3 | Finish the top and bottom edges You can do this however you like
like to bind the edges
with bias and encase a draw cord of fine cable cord in the top edge his allows the top edge
to be drawn in and inhibits "fallout" when the wearer leans forward ace trim can also be
used to finish the edges o encase a draw cord, strongly tack the cord ends near the centre
back within the top seam allowance, after stitching the bias strip to the top edge, right sides
together Now, finish the bias binding as usual making sure you do not catch the cable cord
as you stitch Ribbon can also be used which is more attractive but not as strong or long
wearing

î
| 6





 
15.|

To make the corset you need to take six measurements.

1) Underbust
2) Waist
3) Hip
4) Waist to Underbust
5) Waist to hip from center front-where you want the corset to hit, center front
6) Waist to hip along the side-where you want the corset to hit your hip.
16.|
 To draft the corset:
1) Draw a dot on your paper
2) From that dot, measure up to
underbust length. Draw a straight line.
(Measurement 4)
3) From that dot, measure down to CF
hip length. (Measurement 5)
4) From the top, draw a line equal to
1/4 your underbust measurement
(Measurement 1)
5) From the dot, draw a line equal to
1/4 your waist measurement
(Measurement 2)
6) From the bottom, draw a line equal
to 1/4 your hip measurement
(Measurement 3)
17.|

7) Draw a line connecting the end of the

bustline to the waist and then to the hip.
8) From the end of the waistline (center line)
measure down the length of the hip to the side
(Measurement 6) and make a dot.

18.|

9) Starting from about the center point of the pattern

piece, draw a sloping line up to the dot made in step
8.
10) Redraw the side with a curve following the lines
you drew in step 7. About an inch and a half above
the dot, straighten the line a little. Otherwise the
corset will flare out too much over the hips.
19.|

11) Add seam allowances. 1/2" to the side seams and

1/4" (or whatever the size fold on the bias tape you're
using) to the top and bottom. You may add a seam
allowance to the center back as well. x chose not to,
since, in my experience, corsets stretch quite a bit and
x wanted a little extra room to do that.

The diagonal line shows the position of the boning.

There is also boning on the center back, about 1" in
from the center back (to surround the grommets) and
on the side seams.

20.|To Make the Corset:

21.|For my corset x used velvet, flat lined with cotton sateen as the top layer, and cotton
twill as the lining layer.
22.|Cut out the pieces:
23.|Front (Cut one fabric, one interlining, one lining): Cut with straight edge on the fold
àack (Cut two fabric, two interlining, two lining): Cut with straight edge on the
selvedge
24.|The sewing:
25.|Lining:
1) Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew the front to the backs.
2) Turn back edges under (to the wrong side) about 1/8" then about 3/8" to form
casings for bones. Stitch.
3) One inch away from stitching line, sew a boning casing. (All boning casings will
go on the wrong side)
4) Sew boning casings on side seams and on center front as marked by the pattern.

26.|
27.|x used artificial whalebone for the center back and spiral steel for the side and front
boning.
28.|5) xnsert boning. xt should be a little more than half an inch shorter than the casing.
29.|The Outer Layer:
 30.|1) Stitch interlining to fabric, wrong sides together. Treat pieces as one.
2) Sew fronts to backs.
31.|For quilting. xt's probably easiest if you quilt before sewing the pieces together. x of
course did the quilting last. x only quilted the front piece. x used my clear ruler to
draw lines with a fabric marker on the lining. Then x just stitched over those lines. xt
took a while, but the results were worth it!

32.|
33.|To put the corset together:
34.|1) On the outer layer, sew bias tape to both the top and bottom of the corset.
2) Trim the lining so that it matches the stitch line.
3) *in the lining to the outer layer, wrong sides together (bones will be on the inside)
4) Fold bias tape down over lining and pin into place. (No bias tape will show on
outer layer.)
5) Stitch bias tape by hand to the lining.
6) Fold center back edges of corset under 1/8" then 3/8" and whipstitch to lining to
finish center back edges.
 35.|

36.|Trim as desired!

37.|

38.| 


 39.| Home, if you please


 
 


 
Some time back
*finally* decided to try and sew a corset Just the right thing when you're basically
a beginner at sewing :oops:

First problem: Where to find a good pattern? There are a couple of nice standard-sized
patterns available but most of them would have to be altered heavily to be "efficient" on my
size. As x also lack a reasonable amount of bosom, most overbust corset patterns available are
also a big no-no.

As x didn't REALLY want to start with something historically correct (help, WHERE does
that little piece go again?!), x decided to draft my own underbust corset pattern for a start and
use the project to gain the basic corset-making skills.

Looking through my fabrics (who else here buys fabric thinking "you never know what it can
be turned into"?) x found some REALLY sturdy twill, some golden brocade-ish fabric and
some undefinable black fabric, along with some boning x bought ages ago in order to repair a
plastic boned Fredericks of Holliwood bodice and a busk that was left from an old corset that
had fallen apart. Oh, and 10 m of black narrow zig-zag ribbon
Oh well, looked like a good start to me. What x had in mind when x drafted the pattern was a
long-line underbust with a conical rib cage shape and wide hipline... later x had to find out
that x was a bit generous with the upper hip area :lol:
*lease ignore the pink front and binding, x originally wanted to use a different fabric for these
parts but x was unable to find it.

Now here's the pattern:

x decided to use the two-layered method a friend of mine uses for her corsets. That means that
x first put the "shell" together (the outer layer, consisting of one layer of twill and the fashion
fabric) and then the inner layer, which also includes a waistband.

Here are two photos of one half of the shell:

Once the two "layers were got x sewed them together on the right sides at the front and back
and then turned the whole thig over... does anyone here understand what x mean? Sorry, my
explanations suck.

Anyway, once that was done x stitched the busk into place (which x had to redo later), added
the eyelets in order to study the overall shape and wondered what to do about the boning
channels. First x had wanted to sew some cotton ribbon to the inside but realising that x was
too stupid to do that x just sewed through all the layers, which worked fine (as long as you
don't look at the stitching too closely *whistles*).

Anyway, after a long fight with those stupid metal boning tips, which liked to get stuck in the
middle of a boning channel x managed to get at least most of the boning into the corset and
tried it on in order to check how well it fits... the ribcage area, waist and bottom was fine, but
it ended up about 1" too wide in the upper hip area. Narf... where did those bra pads go?!
:roll: x also found that x could have made the corset about 1" longer at the top front and
maybe even longer at the back. The bottom lengths are okay though.

Anyway, here are the current pictures of the corset, modeled by my lovely pillow. Some
boning channels and bones are still missing, which x am going to fix tonight or tomorrow.
Obviosuly, the binding is also missing. x want to add a top and bottom ruffle but x am not sure
at the moment.
Will add pictures of the finished project and the rest of the story when x am done.

----------

The corset is finished... basically.

Two small issues left:

x will have to...

A: Tuck a small spot of the golden fabrick back under the binding, it slipped out (see first
picture)

à: Use proper spring steel for the back lacing, for quite obvious reasons (see second picture).

x have now made a second version of the pattern which will hopefully work better.

Actually x have made a second and a third version, the third version having hip gussets like
my xris Norris corset... and yes, x will make a mockup first

Acum cateva zile, am intalnit o persoana deosebita, care creeaza aceste speciale corsete,
bustiere, top-corsete, carora le spune Corselete
Mie mi se par pur si simplu minunate, pt ca pot fi purtate cu jeans, cu fuste, fie invelite intr-
un sacou casual sau elegant, si se pot adauga oricarei tinute. Ah da! si sunt din materiale
usoare de vara precum bumbacul si inul.

Am fotografiat doua Corselete minunate deja finisate, unul din in cu bumbac, pe culoarea
crem - modelat finut cu dantela. Se inchide in fata cu nasturei, si in spate este usor incretit,
avand un model deosebit, facandu-l special.
A doua Corseleta este tot dintr-un material amestecat de in si bumbac, pe culoarea lamaiei
verzi, cu un imprimeu ales, placut ochiului.

Cupele acestor Corselete se fac separat, se intaresc, si se adauga restul tiparului. xn zilele ce
urmeaza, voi adauga viitoarele Corselete, care sunt inca in lucru.

Fiecare dintre cele doua Corselete, Top Corsete, au urmatoarele dimensiuni:

78 cm - sub bust
35 cm - lungime de la breteluta la tiv
Cupa à - sutien

*retul per bucata 70 Lei

*t comenzi(si alte info. sau detalii): alexandrinas.memories@gmail.com

àustiera - Corsaj - Corseleta

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