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Analyzing a circuit
Any time that you’re checking a circuit with your multimeter, you must know whether
the circuit is AC (alternating current) or DC (direct current) and about how much
current and voltage you’re potentially handling. You must also decide whether you
want to measure volts, amps or continuity.
When working with a PC, you'll almost always use DC volts. Modern ATX power
supplies convert the fixed-levels power they receive into +12 or -12, +5 or -5, and
+3.3-volt power sources for various system components. When testing a PC with a
multimeter, you'll be testing these various power cables (peripheral power,
motherboard power, and auxiliary device power—auxiliary device power is +12 volts
and runs such auxiliary devices as case fans and come CPU fans) to verify that they are
delivering the correct voltage.
Many multimeters have a dial that allows you to select various modes of operation. As
you can see in Figure A, there are four different areas of my multimeter’s dial that
deal with measuring current. These areas are designated by the codes V DC (volts DC),
V AC (volts AC), A DC (amps DC), and A AC (amps AC). You’d select one of these four
areas of the dial depending on whether you wanted to measure volts or amps of DC or
AC current. When checking circuits inside the computer, you would use either DC
volts (V DC) or DC amps (A DC).
Figure A
The next step in the process is to select an appropriate range. Each of my multimeter’s
sections has several values that designate range. You wouldn’t want to use a two-volt
setting to measure 600 volts. There are a variety of ranges available for both volts and
amps of DC and AC.
If you’re unsure of the approximate voltage range, a good technique is to start with the
maximum range and work your way down. Suppose that you had a two-volt power
source but weren’t sure if you were dealing with two volts or 200 volts. You should
initially measure the voltage with the highest possible range (in my case 600 volts).
Two volts won’t even show up on a 600-volt scale, so next you’d disconnect the meter,
set it to the next lowest range, and try measuring the voltage again. Eventually, as you
repeat this procedure, you’ll find the appropriate range.
You may also have noticed that of my multimeter’s various groups of available
functions, only the electrical current measurement functions that I described earlier
are shown in red. That’s because measuring current and voltage are the only
operations that should be performed with the power on. There are exceptions to this
rule, but as a general rule, never take any other type of measurements with the power
on. If you’re measuring something besides current or voltage (i.e., resistance or
continuity), the device you’re testing should be unplugged.
Even if the power source is disconnected, you should make sure to touch only the
plastic on the multimeter’s probes and never the metal. Capacitors store electricity,
and accidentally touching the wrong spots on a circuit board with the probes can
release this charge. Some capacitors within devices such as TVs and computer
monitors can hold a large, very dangerous charge for several years after the device has
been unplugged. These latent charges can hold enough electricity to kill a person. So
don’t assume that the old monitor that’s been collecting dust in the basement for 10
years doesn’t have any juice in it.
Testing continuity
Sometimes, you just need to find out if power is getting from point A to point B. This is
called a continuity test. Last summer, my brother shorted out the dashboard on my
boat. I needed to find out if the problem was actually in my dash or if the line that
connected the dash to the battery had somehow been damaged. To accomplish this, I
did a continuity test.
A continuity test involves using the Ohms section of your multimeter (ohms are the
standard unit for measuring electrical resistance). Set the range to the smallest
possible resistance level (lowest number of milliohms). Now, place one probe at one
end of the wire that you’re testing and place the other probe at the other end. If the
resistance level is very low, then the connection is good and current can get through
the wire, or the circuit is “closed.” If the resistance level is infinite, then the circuit is
“open” or has a break in it. Many meters produce an audible signal when continuity is
present, but the signal is only enabled in the lowest range of resistance. If the circuit is
continuous, you will hear the tone.
Testing resistance
You can also use the Ohm section of your multimeter to test a resistor or the
terminators used on coaxial cable or old token ring networks. First, make sure that
there’s no power going through the circuit. Then place one probe on each side of the
resistor or terminator that you’re testing and set the appropriate ohm level.
Terminators typically have the ohm level printed somewhere on or near them.
Terminators that are used in coaxial network cable have two options, either 50 or 75
ohms. Resistors use a series of colored bands to indicate their ohm level and their
tolerance (how many ohms they can be off by and still be within specs). Unfortunately,
the stripe pattern is a science in and of itself and can take a while to figure out.
Stay tuned
Now that I've given you the basics of multimeter use, you’re probably already thinking
of PC problems you can troubleshoot with this new knowledge. My next article will
offer a series of real-world PC problems that can be solved using a multimeter. Just
remember that any time you work with a multimeter or any electrical devices, safety is
always your first priority.
The_Woodburys@... | 10/21/02
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