.

iAL
J A N U A R Y1 9 9 7

-1 / /

Effects of yarn and Fabric construction on spiralitv

-r-------"
iex-
)-s9. of Cotton Single Jersey Fabrics
Pro-
-t-5 JraNc Tao, R. C. DHrNcnA,C. K. CHRN,
AND M. S. Asses
Institute ofTe'uiles & Ctothing' The Hong Kong
Polytechnic Lrniversitv, Hung Hom, Kowloon,
l. ln Hong Kong
rrng
ABSTRACT
.K..
Spirality arising from loop distortion in
-. single-jerseyknitted fabncs is discussed.
s of' T'estmethods f,ormeas.uringfabric splrariiy
in tnitt"a fabrics are outlined. Resultsof
pun an experimental investigationare statisticaily
analyzedconsideringthe effectsof yarn/
iabric construction factors o1 spirality
the behavior of laboratory produced single-
/ool L3nev.flabrics.The study tttat ti.t.,t.uAylrtut. Ioop shapefor the washed/tumble_
dned knitted specimensis levells
not unique. Accordingly,the constructionfactors
in^the statistical analysesare yarn rinear considered
denslty, yarn twist factor, rabric tightness
W'a- lggo sh1{. The anatysesreveal the importance
::::1. as
ractor ""d,fub":
well as the fabric tightnessfactoi in promoting of the yarn twist
tan rau.ic rpi.Ji,f. rnl,rt,ipl. lin"u.
7ti- regressionequations of practical importance
for predicting fabric spiratrtyare derived
from the experimentalresults.
lose

Me-
Because ofthe dimensionalinstabilityof knrttedloop
ston
construction,single_jersey knitted fabricssuffer from creasingyarn
vanouslorms of dimensionaldistortion.
and
tortion arisesfrom the use of yarn that
t'tilt
rcsultingin walesthat are not perpendicular
i bcr t h e p h e n o m e n o ni s c a l l e d . . s p i r a l i t y . , ,
vtilc practicalproblemsarisingfrom loop
tered in garments produced by knitted
1of displacementor shifting of seams,mismatched
and terns.sewingdilficulties,etc. Spirality
1br-
influence on both the aestheticand functional
r'ool
mance of knitted fabrics and the garments
from them. The subject of spirafitf has
;s ln
rnvestigatedby many researchersfrom
rslty
mental and practical viewpoints.
r Sl n Researchwork on knitted fabric spirality
1). 2l I has clearly demonstratedthat the
Vor- factor causing spirality in a single_je.s"y
relaxation of torsional stressesin the yain.
lois- under low tensile loads has a natural tendency
'ican
to its original untwisted state.When
yarn is knitted into a loop, it will
nof
rotate inside the fabric in order
I nst.
strain-.In single-jerseyknitted fabrics,
wale behavesin a similar manner,
Vool
will be inclined.
-503
The direction of loop spirality in a knitted
Vool controlled to a large extent by the
the yarn. "2" twist yarn will yield
8th
:nce. direction spirality, and ..S" twist yarn
wrth "S" direction spirality. Nutiing's
tal results have shown that for
tightnessfactor, the spirality increasesIinearly with
in-
twist liveliness(as measuredin water).
One suchdis_ Yarn twist liveliness,in turn,
dependson the amounl
is twist lively. of y'arntwist inserteddurine
t h e s p i n n i n go p e r a t i o n .
to courses: rherefbre. rheyarn,*tr,' ;;:,;;;;:';]ff.
S o m e o f . t h e on fabric spirality.
tffi Hl'.
spiralityencoun_ The magnitude of fabric spiralily dependson
a com-
matenals are bination offiber, yarn, and knitting
factors. Fiber fac_
pat_ tors include the modulus and
cross_sectional shape.
has an obvious For example, Lord et at.
[19] demonstrated that the
perfor_ magnitude of spirality in single_jersey
knitted fabrics
produced produced from cotton/polyester
yarn increased with
therefbre been the increasing percentage polyester
of in the blend.
both funda_ They attributed their resultsto
the higher rigidities of
polyester fibers arising from the diameter,
Lodulus,
[9,12, 13, and cross-sectionalshapeeffects.
-ori p.o*inent Yarn factors include structure and residuat
strain.
fui.i. i, th. Geometric and physical properties of yarns vary
con_
Unset yarn siderably with spinning technology.
The arrangement
to return of fibers in the yarn affects the twist
imparted to yarn
such a twist-lively and thus its tendencyto
snarl t 7, l0 ]. Thi experimental
have a tendency to results of de Araujo
and Smith [10] clearly demon_
to releaseits torsional strated the effects
of cotton yarn structure (arising from
each loop of a different spinning techniques
such as ring, rotor, fric_
so the whole wale tion, and air jet) on
the spirality behavior of knitted
fabrics.
fabric is Knitting factors also have a significant influence
on
twist direction of fabric spirality. With
multifeeder circular knitting ma_
a fabric with ..2,, chines, the knitted fabric produced
is spirally, thus giv-
wrtt yletOa fabric ing rise to the course
inclination. fne magnitude of
1Zt f experimen_ fabric spirality arising from the use of multifeeders
de-
faUrlc, with a given pendson the number
of feedersand number of needles

T ' c . r t i l eR e : ;J . 6 j ( t ) , 5 7 _ 6 g( l g g 7 \
0040-5
I 75192.00
58
on the knitting machine, and the direction of spirality
dependson the rotation direction of the knitting ma-
chine [9, I l]. Basedon the assumptionthat courseis
horizontal,de Araujo and Smith [9] revealedthat for
a clockwise rotating machine, the wale would be in-
clined to the left, thus producing "S" spirality.
Buhler and Haussler[ 6 ] studiedthe effectsof various
knitting tensionsinduced during the whole processoI
the loop formation on labric spirality. However. no
consistenttrends relatingvariationsin fabric spirality
with knitting tensionsemergedfrom their experimental
investigation.
Tightness factor (defined as the ratio of square
root of yarn count to loop length) providesa measure
of the freedom of loop movement in the knitted fab-
ric construction and thus greatly affects fabric spi-
rality. The loop produced from a twist-lively yarn
will yield higher spirality in a fabric with lower tight-
nessfactor 1,2-41
Fabric relaxation (dry as well as wet ) treatmentscan
removethe residualknitting tensionin the yarn intro-
duced during the knitting process. The relaxation
treatment relievesthe residual yarn torque as a result
of changesin the fiber's molecular structureand the
increasing yarn mobility [2, 3, 2l];this phenomenon
promotes higher spirality. According to another hy-
pothesis[3 ], water relaxationcausesswellingand con-
traction of yarn dimensions. The rotation movement
of a loop within the knitted structure is thus restricted,
leading to reduced fabric spirality. Whether spirality
will increaseor decreaseas a result of water relaxation
treatmenl dependson the predominance of one factor
over the other.
According to Heap et al. |4, 151,the most impor-
tant performance attribute of cotton knitted fabrics is
their shrinkage behavior. Under the auspices of the
Starfish (srnnr as you mean to FINISH) project, the
International Institute for Cotton [8, 23] developeda
practical system for reliably predicting the shrinkage
and dimensional properties of finished knitted cotton
fabrics.The project involved more than two and a half
thousand different qualities of fabrics manufactured
and processedunder fully commercial conditions. For
the purpose of building a special computer program to
predict fabric dimensions after shrinking, the test f;ab-
rics were subjected to a "reference relaxed state." The
test method adopted to obtain the reference state in-
volved the following s€quence:washing in an automatic
machine at 60"C, tumble drying to constant weight,
wetting-out in a washing machine (rinse cycle), tumble
drying to constant weight, and repeating wetting-out/
tumble drying three more times, thus making a total
of five cycles. Heap et al.lI4, l5l demonstrated that
JounNu
TEXTTLERESEARCH
such an intensive relaxation procedureremovesessen-
tially all shrinkage in nearly all cotton knitted fabrics.
In other words, a fabric in its reference state can be
assumedto have essentiallyzero shrinkage-The con-
cept of the reference state is crucial to the application
of the Starfishprediction model, since the engineering
rules underpinning Starfish applications are the di-
mensional parametersof the referencestate.There are
just four major variablesaffectingthe dimensions after
shrinking ofcotton circular knit goods:yarn type and
size, stitch length, knitting machine size of, and wet
process.
A recent paper by Hepworth [16] theoretically in-
vestigatedthe mechanism by which the twisted yarn
leadsto spirality in a plain-knitted fabric. The analysis
was done by means of a computer simulation that cal-
culated the shapeofa loop in the fabric by considering
the interyarn pressures exerted on the loop by its
neighbors.
In this paper, we present an experimental investi-
gation of the effectsof cotton yarn linear density and
twist as well as knitting tightnessfactor on fabric spi-
rality. The empirical relationshipsbetween fabric spi-
rality on the one hand and yarn/fabric constructional
parameterson the other hand are derived using statis-
tical regressiontechntques.
Experimental
Fnsnrcs
Heap et al.ll4,15l have emphasizedthe importance
of working on commercially produced and finished
knitted specimens for reliably predicting the shrinkage
and dimensional properties of knitted cotton fabrics.
How€ver, an experimental study on fabric spirality in-
volving a systematic variation in yarn and fabric con-
structional variablesdemands the production of knitted
specimens in the laboratory.
We produced a seriesof 56 fabrics on a single feeder
circular knitting machine using cotton ring spun yarns.
The knitted specimens covered a wide range of yarn
counts, yarn twists, and fabric tightness factors. We
selectedthree yarn counts (18, 21, 24 tex) and five
twist factors (21 , 25, 29, 33, 37 text t2 X tpc ) and pre-
pared a total offourteen kinds ofyarns (we encountered
difficulty in spinning 18 tex yarn with a twist factor of
2l text /2 X tpc ) . After relaxing in an open steamer for
30 minutes, all the yarns were knitted in plain con-
struction using a Tricolab circular knitting machine
(9.5 cm diameter, 22 gauge) equipped with a single
feeder. Each yarn was knitted at four levels of tightness
factor-1 l, 13, 15, 17 textt2 cm-r. The desiredfabric
tightness factor was achieved by controlling the yarn
NAL
59
J , q N U n n Y1 9 9 7
t
;sen- t f'eeding ( positive)speedand the positionof the sinker' formula: degreeof spirality 0 : tan (dlL), where d
'rics. Wc obtained a clear wale line in the knitted fabric by is displacementof the coursefrom a normal line to the
nbe removingone needle(from a total of 260 needles)from wales of the fabnc measuredat a distance L from the
con- the knitting machine. For a well defined courseline' identihedwale line (i.e., the one wherethe needlewas
rtion rve marked a small length of the knitting yarn with removed).
)nng i n d e l i b l ei n k .
r di- Eachof the knitted fabricswasdivided into two equal
e are parts.One part was subjectcdto a dry relaxation treat-
after ment by conditioning the specimensin a standard
and conciitioned( 20"C. 657oRl{ ) laboratoryfbr at least72
i wet hours.l'he other part was subjcctedto a "washed and
tumblc-drie<J ( \N'1r))" relaxationtreatmcntcomprising
y in- two cyclesof launderingat 60"C and tumble drying.
yarn lblloweclby standardconditioning fbr at least72 hours.
rlysis This relaxatictntreatmenl proceduremay not provide
t cal- a c o m p l e t c l ys h r i n k - f i e es t a t e[ 8 . 1 4 . 1 5 .2 3 ] t o k n i t t e d
ering samples.but we considcredit adequatefor examining
,v its thc influencesofyarn and fabric construction variables
rtn fabric spirality fbr the laboratoryproducedcotton
vesti- knilted labrics. In order to study the eft'ectof partial
r and wet relaxation(water immersion without laundenng/
: spi- tumbledr-ving)on the extentof spirality.we conducted
; spi- controllcdexperimentson thc setof flve f-abrics knittcd
ional fhrnt 1,1 tex !'arn at a tightness lactor of l-l tcxr'l
;tatis- X cm r . We mcasured thc spirality of dry-relaxed I l ( ; l R I l . I e c h n i q u cl i l r m t a s u r i n g l a b r i c s p i r a l i t l'
specimcns. then immersedthe samespeclmcnsln water
( , 1 0 ' ( ' ) t o r l 4 h o u r s .h y d r o - e x t r a c t e da.i r d n e d . c o n -
ditioncd.and re-measuredthem fbr spiralit-v".
Resultsand Discussion
-ft,st
tance Mt'ttlot>s The mean values of the measuredloop shapefactor
ished Wc measured loop length (from an unravelled for the dry relaxed and washed/tumble-dried relaxed
rkage ctturse). coursesand walesper cm, and angleof spirality specimensare shown in Table Ia. The K values(Table
brics. of'the wale lines for all specimensin both dry relaxed Ib) for the washed/tumble-dried specimensrange be-
ty in- and washed/tumble-driedstates. tween 21.5 and 21.8, lower than the valuesreported
) con- Fabric loop shapefactor S was calculated using the by other workers [ 18, 20, 22 ] . Similarly, the valuesof
nitted relationS : r'/ n', wherec is the number of coursesper loop shape factor S for fabrics knitted at I I and 13
I
unit length, and n' is the number of wales per unit texr/r X cm are considerablysmallerthan the value
teder lcngth.The parameterK : lext t) I I , wheretex ( g/ km) of 1.3 suggestedby others [18, 20, 22]. Our result may
yarns. is the yarn linear density,and / (cm) is the knitted loop be explained in terms of the shorter relaxation proce-
'yarn dure (two cyclesof washing/tumble drying as against
length, was used as a measureof fabric tightness.The
s. We parameterK., : c X w X /2 was used as a measure of five cyclesproposedby Heap et al. [14,15] ) adopted
d five labric dimensional(area) constant. in this study. Note, however,that lower valuessuch as
d pre- There are three well known standard test methods, l.l9 for the shape factor of the fully relaxed single-
rtered IWS test method no.2'76 !71, British standard2819 jersey fabrics knitted from rotor spun cotton yarns have
:tor of [5], and ASTM D 3882-88 [l], availablefbr deter- been reported by Banerjeeand Alaiban [4].
rer for mining the spirality of knitted fabrics.After preliminary The mean values ( based on ten measurements) of
l con- testingof a large number of single-jerseyweft knitted test results and the coefficient of variation for fabric
rchine fabrics,we adopted the following reproducible testing spirality are summarized in Table II. The coefficient
single procedure (based on the British standard 2819) for of variation of the spirality data for dry relaxed spec-
htness objective measurementof fabric spirality. imens is quite high. For the washed and tumble-dried
fabric The test method is illustrated in Figure 1. We ob- relaxed specimens,however, the coefficient of variation
l yarn tained the magnitude of spirality using the following is generally lower ( < 10%) .

Pao Yue-t-ongtt:,t::l
60 TEXTILE RESEENCH JOURNNT-

fabrics
TABLE la. Structural detailsand labric loop shapefactor test resultsfor a seriesoflaboratory produced cotton single-jerse,v
in the dry and washed/tumble-dried(wtD) relaxed states

Loop shapefactor

K n i t t i n g t i g h t n e s sf a c t o r .t e x r / : x c m - r
Nominal l3 l5
Nominal yarn twist factor.
c o u n t -t e x texl/r x tpc Drv WTD Dry Dry WTD Dry

Iu 25 0.14 0.88 0.96 .09 I .t 4 Ll4 1.36 1.25

29 0.17 0.90 1.00 .ll 1 . 2I l.ltt 1.32 1.32
)) 0.tt3 0.94 0.98 .12 20 l.l0 1.36 t.3l
31 0.11 1.04 r.00 .17 l.ll 1.33 1.34
2l 0.69 0.91 0.91 .01 05 I.09 r.l3 1.25
l:) 0.7..1 0.[t9 0.9fi .09 II t.l7 l.l3 t.26
r4 L lt{ -ll t.26
29 076 0.9,s 0.96 .ll
3l 0.80 0.94 0.9lt .14 l,l l.l9 )4 r.30
31 0.76 l.0l 0.9tt l0 1.08 |.21 44 l.-t)
2l 0.70 0.9.1 0.tt9 .(x) t1 i.08 | 11 Ll9
l) 067 1.00 0.89 .08 l8 l.l-1 l.l r 22
29 0.6tt 1.0.3 086 .ll l8 l.ltt 1.28 27
3l 0.70 r.03 0.95 .ll t0 l.2l l.3l 3l
11
069 r.0l 0.94 .11 Iu l.2l I.-t-t ll

Tnet-F-Ib. Averagevaluesof dimension paramcterKs for the series
of laboratory produced cotton single-jerscyfabrics rn the dry and
washed/tumble-driedrelaxcd states.
Dimensional parameler -h.r
Nominal yarn
counl, tex Dry Washed/tumble-dricd
l8 t].l I1.8
2l t7.9 2r.5
24 l8.l 21.6
Sprnnlrrv AND YARN CoNsrRucrtox
PnnnugrEns
Figures 2a-c show plots of averagespirality angle
versus yarn twist factor (five levels) for the washed/
tumbled dried specimensknitted from the three dif-
ferent yarn counts, eachat four different levelsoftight-
nessfactor. The l8 tex yarn could not be satisfactorily
spun at the lowesttwist factor (21 texr/2 X tpc), and
hencethe spirality measurementsin Table II and Figure
2a are for only four levels of twist factor. Figure 2 shows
that in each case,spirality increaseslinearly with the
yarn twist factor over the range tested. The correlation
coemcients for linear association between fabric spi-
rality and yarn twist factor for each yarn count and
fabric tightness factor are all very high (coefficient r
: 0.99). This result implies that strong linear depen-
dence exists between fabric spirality and yarn twist fac-
tor, when other variables, e.9.,yarn count and tightness
factor, are held constant. This result confirms the gen-
eral belief that the main cause of fabric spirality in a
knitted fabric arises from yarn twist liveliness, which
in turn depends on the yarn twist factor.
Table III provides the values of the slope (incre-
mental spirality with unit increaseof yarn twist factor)
obtained from the empirically derived regressionline.
The resultsindicate that the slopeof the regressionline
increasesrapidly with decreasingfabric tightness factor.
For example. in the caseof washedand tumble-dried
fabric specimensknitted from l8 tex yarn, the slope
I
i n c r e a s ef sr o m 0 . 5 1 o / t s x r / :X t p c ( f o r l 7 t e x r / r X c m
t i g h t n e s sf a c t o r ) t o 1 . 2 0 ' l t e x t r t x t p c ( f o r 1 l t e x r / 2
x cm I tightnessfactor). Similar resultsalso apply for
the relaxed fabric specimens knitted from the other
two yarn counts.
A cursory look at the data in Table II indicatesthat
the spirality of fabrics knitted with low tightness ( I I
texr/l x cm ') generallyincreaseswith yarn tex for a
given twist factor. But for the tighter fabrics, there is
no evidence of any systematic relationship between
fabric spirality and yarn count. We further analyzed
the relationship between fabric spirality and yarn count
later in this paper using the statisticalcorrelation anal-
ysis technique.
FAcroR
FRsRrc SprRnLrrv AND TIGHTNESS
Figures 3a-c show plots of average spirality angle
versustightness factor for the washed and tumbledried
single-jerseyfabrics knitted from 18, 21, and 24 tex
yarns spun at various levels of yarn twist factor. Note
that the relationships between fabric spirality and
tightness factor are again quite strong ( correlation coef-
ficient > 0.96) in all cases.At each level of yarn twist
factor, the degree of fabric spirality decreaseslinearly
with fabric tightness factor. In other words, tightly
knitted fabrics exhibit smaller degreesof spirality. The
rL

RNAL JANUARY I997

ics lABt.r, II. Structural detailsand tabric spirality test resultsfor the seriesof laboratory produced cotton single-jerseyfabrics
in the drv and washed/tumble-driedrelaxedstates.

Angle of spirality'.degreeu

K n i t t i n g t i g h t n e s sf a c t o r .t e x r / 2x c m - r
Nominal Nominal II 13 15
\arn counl twist factor.
wlD tex t e x r / rx t p c Mcan CVqi Mean CV"l Mean CV'n

1.2_i Dr1 relaxedspccimcns

l.-ll
t8 25 r.l l9.l + +
ttl
29 l.l t5.7 l i +
I .-.1.1
33 1.6 21.8 2.ti 10..1 1.5 2t.l +
t5
31 A)
ll.l A1
15.9 11
r0.0 2.8
l6
2l 2l i + I +
l6
l) l5 I1.,1 i +
-t0
t5
29 2.5 15.9 L-s -i1.4 i +
33 3.1 17.9 1,r
1 5r. I.-l l5.l +
l .t 9
31 /1
20.5 4.5 t07 1.0 6.1 2.8
l.tl 1t
2l + + +
t.)l
25 l.l 23.6 i + f
I . . rI
2r) 1.4 21.-\ 1.6 17.9 + t
l . : rl
3-.1 2.9 t].9 l.\ r5 . 9 1.6 l5.l +
31 4.5 14.6 3.ti 7.8 3.8 7.8

rncre- W a s h c d / t um h l e - c l r i e dr c l a x c ds p c c i n t e n s

actor ) llr 25 ll.l 4.9 10.5 1.1 t0.2 6.4 8.4 6.2
T 29 ll.t.6 6l l6.l 4.0 t2.6 4.tt 10.4 7.3
line.
3..t 2t.9 o.l 21.6 4.1 16.9 3.5 12.7
)nline 17 26 lr
J. I
L;1 24.5 3.0 1 90 8.8 14.5 J.l
lactor. lr :l 99 9.u 65 t 1I. 5.3 6.9 3.6 6.8
-dried 15 1 6l - 1 .+ I r.+ 6.1 9.1 4.3 t-) 1.4
19 lli.l -18 1 6 I. 3 .t t 1 36 4.6 9.3 4.1
slope 'll Il9 4.t( :() tr - s I. 1 60 5.5 I 1.5 6.2
.cm -tt lt.1 1.8 167 Il Iti.l 1.9 1 4 I. 3.5
l l+ II l0l 1.1 6.8 6.8 b.o 8.I 3.9 6.2
texli
li 1 7- . ] ).1 l l.l 65 8.1 82 6.2 9 .I
rly for i; 2tl 3.0 t 1. 1 6.1 13.0 4.6 8.4 7.0
other 3-1 30.4 2.tt 2t.) J.: 15.4 4.9 10.9 5.5
31 3 . 1 I. 2.6 J.: 1 9 .I 2.8 12.6 5.2
-'sthat ' P l u s d c n o t e sa v a l u e f b r
a n g l co f s p i r a l i t yl e s st h a n I d e g r c e .m i n u s d e n o t e sa r e l i a b l ee s t i m a t eo f C V , ? n o t p o s s i b r e
ss(ll
(fora
T . r s t . t I I l . V a l u c so f g r a d i e n l( d e g r e e / t e x r /xr t p c ) f o r t h e s i m p l e between fabric spirality (degree) and fabric tightness
lere is (bivariate) linear relationship betwecn labric spirality (degree)and
'tween \arn twisl l'actor(texr/r X tpc) lbr the labric specimensknitted using factor (texr/r x cm I ). With one exceptionof a data
the threedifferent yarn counls and the fbur ditl'crenttightnessfacton. point (in the caseof2l tex), the gradientofregression
alyzed
count line increasesin magnitude with yarn twist factor over
Yarn count, tex
r anal- Tightnessfactor. the range examined. The effectsare much more pro-
t e x r / rX c m I r8 2l 24
il 1.20 1.02 1.52 TABLEIV. Valuesof gradient (degree/texr/2X cm-r) for the simple
t-l l.l8 1.20 l . l 8 (bivariate) linear relationship between fabric spirality (degree)and
l5 0.17 0.80 0 . 8 4 fabric tightnessfactor ltex'/t X cm-r) for the fabric specimensknitted
t7 0.51 0.65 0 . 55 using the three different yam counts and the five different twist facton
angle
(with exception of 18 tex yarn. where only four twist levels were
rdried used).
24 tex
. Note result is explained in terms of the easeof freedom of Yarn count, tex
Yarn twist factor,
y and the loop movement in knitted fabric construction. In texr/2 X tpc t8 2l 24
n coef- a more tightly knitted fabric, the movement of a knitted
2l - 1.02 -0.99
1 twist loop is restricted,and thus spirality is reduced. -*n -l.oJ - 1.82
25
nearly Table IV lists the values of gradient (change in spi- 29 -t.42 -1.55 -2.62
rality per unit increase of tightness factor) obtained 33 -1.11 - 1.80 -3.20
tightly -2.43 -3.55
y. The from the regressionline for a simple linear relationship
 62 T E X T I L E R E S E e R C HJ O U N N N I

Washedand Tumble-dried

18 tex
30
K = 1 1( r { s )
-'")
x .
,-/-",_-,6 K = 1 3( r { S )
' et / '- _ , - - '

_. A K=15(r{S)
= ),.--' A
E.
15 X K=l7 (r{s)
a a A x
10 f, x
x
5

0
26 30
Twist Factor,TF (tex1z-tpc)

35
21 tex
s
K=l1 (r{€)
x K = 1 3( r { s )
.-...''
n t
: a-' A K=l5 (r{9)
'15 a- 6 A
E A X K=17 (r{.€)
U)
x
10 a A x
E x
5 A
x
0
MT 3a
1D
Twist Faclor,TF (tex"'.tpc)

a K = 1 1( r { s )

a,'"t-

x r K=13 (r{.S)

E
n
= K=ls{r{s)
'tr
i A
15
-x K=17(r=oS)
10 a ,,.
J x------
A

5
I , , - ,* - - - '
x--
0!
18 6O

Twist Faclor, TF (tex1z.tpc)

F r r ; r n r , 2 . R c l a t i o n s h i pb c t w e c ns p i r a l i t r a n d t u i s t l a c t o r f i r r r a r i o u s v a l u e so t t i g h t n e s sl a c t o r .

nounct'd
irrlhcclseoill texvam:l0rerample.
the prohlcnr
ol lbbnc ismuch
spimlrtv floteiiilr)ttr
.unrdrr'nI rrl rt'.sr-r'.sstrrr.r Iinc incrca.se-s)'n>m dmo.si uni)t, )r>osr)t\;nttlri hbnts )l>n hteb)v)v).t))) y)))'
\\s\ Nt \\tt\\\\t\\\ \m\\tt\ .,r\ l\ \ex\ I .r.
\pc ) fo l.t,
( tirl ttrt slterirtrrns knittctl '.rt ll
tcrr I ul tpc). I:igurc
F r \ l l R t ( ' S I , l R . t t .l l\ . . A \ t ) R t , t r,rrtl()r I I . tI . .
-lc also shtt* s that rn lhc casc ot' 1.11ex ' ,
!,arn at J7 tex
/ t p c . r h c t l r t l c r e n c ei n s p i r a l r t y a r i s i n g l r . o n t .'
lightness As mcnlioned carlicr. the labnc \pcr.nr."..
t i c t o r r s o r c r l ( ) c . \ \ ' c r n a l t h c r c l i r r ec o n c l u d e t h a l
the tcx varn knltted at I 3 tcx eln llLil
-l

i.NAt_ J A N U A R YI 9 9 7

WashedandTumble-dried

18 tex

TF<7 (r{.s) )l----

TF=3c(r{S) A
-_r
6
20 ---)(
i' TF=29(r=O.S) !- . - -_-._
G ' r.. --x
.
U) TF=5 (r{.94 O- .. . _ - IA
a1E

12 13 14 15

Tightness Factor, K (tex12.cm'1)

2'l tex
TF=37 (r=0.96)

TF=3 (r=O94
>20 TF=29 (r{€)
=
fit TF=25 (r=O€)
.: 15 x
-A
U)
10 rF=21 (1494 E
-a

12 13 14 15 t7

TightnessFactor,K (textz.cm't)

TF=37(r{.s) x_-
24 tex
A
TF=3 (r{.S}

TF=29(r{.s}

>. 20
= TF=25(r{.94
o
o-
o TF=21 (r{.94
10 a-

13 14 15 16

TightnessFactor,K 1tex12.cm-1)

FrcuRE 3. Relationship between spirality and tightnesslactor for various valuesoftwist lactor

rs for werealso subjectedto a partial wet relaxation treatment factor increasessubstantially with the wet relaxation
( water immersion without laundering/tumble drying ). and even much higher with the washed and tumble-
The resultsof fabric spirality at the three stagesof re- dried relaxation treatments.The gradient of the regres-
t relaxed. and sion line obtained for the linear relationstiip between

:ron \ine obtarned ior the linear relationsliip between

sprralrt) and twist factor increasesfrom 0.24"
/text12
X tpc for the dry relaxed specimensto 0.80o/texr,r
showsthat spiraliti. of the fabric at all lerels
of-twisr X
64 Tpxrrlr ResreRcHJounNnr

Washed& tumbleiried
'1.18x
Y= - 18 (r{ 99)
-___,,-a
.3--
20 Wet relded
.>,
=(!
t_ y = o . 8 0 x ' 1 5( r { s )
E

o I -.,--,-
g
10
_ --t-' Dry relued
I
--t Y=024x-5.3(r{s)
- o
!- EI-
O'*-:---fl::i : - 9-
?2?€30

Twist Factor, TF (tex1z.tPc)

F t r ; r r n l 4 . E f i b c to f r c l a x a t i o nt r e a t m e n t sa t ! a r r o u s v a l u e so f t w i s t l ) c i o r
( 2 4 t e x y a r n .K : 1 3 t e x r / rx c m r ) .

texri r x tpc for the washedand tumble-dried relaxed
specimens.These results reveal the importance of re-
laxation treatment on fabric spirality, and they clearly
demonstratethat the spirality in a single-jerseyknitted
fabric can become more serious after the knitted gar-
ment is subjectedto the mechanicalaction of laun-
d e r i n g( o r d r y c l e a n i n g ) a n dt u m b l e d r y i n g .
RelationshipsBetweenFabric Spirality and
Yarn and Fabric Construction
The results in Figures 2 and 3 clearly demonstrate
the importance of yarn linear density, yarn twist factor,
and fabric tightnessfactor on fabnc spirality. An anal-
ysis of variance of the entire data for spirality angles
(total of 560 individual observations)obtained on the
In order to seek a clearer picture of the interrela-
tionships of fabric spirality and the yarn and fabric
construction variables(yarn linear density, yarn twist
factor, fabric tightnessfactor, and loop shape factor),
the simple (bivariate) linear and partial linear rela-
tionships were analyzedusing the mean data of spirality
provided in Table II for the washedand tumble-dried
specimens.The correlationcoefficientsemanatingfrom
the analysesofthe results(seeTable II) are given in
TablesVIa-b.
'fnnr,r,
VIa. Values of srmple (bivariate) linear correlation
coefhcientsbetween labric spirality and the associatedyarn/fabric
constructional parameters.S5 : signiticant at 5%,level' NS = not
significant at 5oiilevel, All other valuesare significant at lololevel.

washed and tumble-dried specimenshas clearly dem- Yarn Twist Tightness Shape
onstrated that the effectsof all three variables, together counl factor factor factor

with their interaction terms, are significant (ar 5Ia Spirality 0.05 o.74 -0.61 -0.30
level). A summary of the mean sum of squaresand (NS) (s5)
-0. 14 0.00 -0.01
the significance levels extracted from the analysis of Yarn count
(NS) (NS) (NS)
variance output of the individual data is presentedin Twist factor 0.00 0.32
Table V. (NS) (s5)
Tightnessfactor 0.9r
Tegrn V. Mean squaresand ,F significancelevel extracted
from the eNova (analysisof variance) output.

Signitrcance
Source of variation Mean square of F-value Tesre VIb. Third-order partial correlation coefficientsbetween
fabric spirality and each of the four associated yarn/fabric
Main effects constructional parameters.55 : signilicant at 57o level, NS = not
Yarn count 3329 0.00 significant at 5% level. All other valuesare significant at l7o level.
Twist factor 2691 0.00
Tightnessfactor 55 0.00 Yarn Fabnc
2-way interactions
Twist factor. tightness f-actor l6r 0.00 Yarn Twist Tightness Loop shape
't2 factor
Count. twist factor 0.00 Parameters counl factor factor
Count, tightnessfactor l) 0.00
3-way interactions Partial correlation
coefficient 0. l5 0.81 -0.64 0.26
Count, twist factor, tightness
factor 0.00 (NS) (\s)
 rL

65
NAL J A N U A R YI 9 9 7
.f
,qgt.t VIc. Second-ordcrpartial correlation coellicienls between vide a clear picture of the direct relationshipsbetween
thc pairs of fbur asstlcia(etllarn/fabric collstructional fabric spirality and the associatedyarn/fabric con-
paramelers'
levcl' nll
i 5 - s i g n i t r c a n at t 5 i ; l e v e l . N S : n o t s i g n i f i c a n ta t 5 ' - i structional parametersbecauseof some strong inter-
othcr V a l u e sa r e s i g n i h c a n a
t t l ' ' i l e v c l '
relationshipsof theseconstructional parametersthem-
f ightnc'ss
ShaPellctor
selves(e.g., a simple correlation coelicient between
Tsisl lactor factor
labric tightnessfactor and loop shapelactor is 0'91 )'
\ arn count 0 19 - 0 . l 2 0 . i l Wc therefore used the technique of partial correlation
(NS) (NS)
to analyze the data of mean spirality anglespresented
(NS)
0.16 0.79
Tslst lsctor
f i g h t n e s sl a c l o r 0.96 in Table ll. This techniqueanalyzesthe relationship
between two variables when the effects of all other
variablesinvolved are kept constant'
Table VIb shows valucs of the third-order partial
cclrrclation coemcients bctween labric spirality and
S t t v l p t .(rB ' I v , A , R trnu , )L t N r , n nC t l p n t ' l . nt t t l x s each of the fbur constructionalparameterswhen the
cflbctsol'the remaining (hrec construction variables
As reflectcdin Tablc VIa. the depcndencebctween are rcmoved( kept at a constantlevel) ' It is interesting
labric spirality and yarn twist factor is quitc strong to compare the valuesof partial correlationcoefficients
rrrela- (coetlicicntr : 0.14). A negativemoderatecorrelation hctweenIabricspiralitr and the associatcd construction
tabric existsbetu'centabric spirality and tightncsslactor (r parameters( Table VIb ) with the correspondingvalues
= -0.6 I ). -fhe rclationshipsbetweenspiralityand yarn
r twist of simple (bivariate) linear correlation coellicients
c t o r) . count ( r - -0.05 ) aswell as betweenspiralityand loop shown in Table VIa. Yarn twist factor and fabric tight-
: rela- s h a p et a c t o r( r - - 0 . 3 0 ) a r e v e r y w e a k ( b o t h n o t s t g - nesslactor are the two mosl important parametersthat
rirality nificantat a l(r/i, level). Thescresultsagainclearlydem- arc strongly correlatedwith fabric spirality' The strong'
-dned onstratethat the degreeot'spiralitl-is affectcdmainly simple (bivariatc) correlationbetweenfabric spirality
g liom bl thc varn twist tactor and tabric tightncssfactor' and -varntwist lactor (r -- O'14) and moderatecorre-
vcn in F a b r i c sk n i t t e d t i o m t h e r a r n s w i t h h i g h t w i s t e x h i b i t lation between labric spiralit-vand tightness factor ( r
c x t c n s i v es p i r a l i t y 'a. n d t h e d i s t o r t i o nc a n b e c o n s i d - = 0.6 I ) become even stronS,erwhen partial correla-
erabll reduccdif the tabric is knitted \ery tightl) ( i'c : -0'64'
tions betu'eenthesepairs (partial r 0'81 and
r e l a t i v er o t a t i o n o f t h e k n i t t e d l o o p i s c o n s t r a i n e d ) ' respectivel-v ) are considered. We may therefore
con-
On the other hand, the effectsof yarn count and loop clude that yarn twist factor and fabric tightnessfactor
r rc l a t l ( ) n
'nllabric shapetactor on tabric spirality are not significant' have a direct influence on knitted fabric spirality' Also'
5 -- nol Interrelationshipsof the four yarn/fabric construc- the partial correlation betweenfabric spirality and yarn
lcvel.
tional parametersreveala strong associationbetween count (partial r : 0. l5 ) is still not significanraI a 5To
:
Shapc labric tightnessfactor and loop shapefactor ( r 0'9 I )' level when effectsof the remaining parametersare re-
Banerjeeand Alaiban [4] recorded a similar observa-
factor
moved. The weak negative bivariate correlation be-
-0.10 tion; they found that the loop shapefactor for knitted tween fabric spirality and loop shape factor (simple r
( s 5) fabricsusing rotor spun cotton yarns increasedlinearly : -0.30) now becomesweak positive(partial r : O'26)
-0.t)I
with the fabric tightnessf-actorboth for dry relaxedand when the effect of the remaining three variables is re-
(NS)
0.31 fully relaxedspecimens.The correlationsbetweenyarn moved (controlled) from the regressionanalysis' The
(ss) count and each of the remaining constructionalpa- result may be explained in terms of the strong linear
0.9I rameterswere all very low ( r < 0. I 5, not significant at dependencebetween fabric tightness f-actorand loop
a 57olevel) for the specimensinvestigatedin this work' shapefactor (simPle r : 0.91).
Similarly, the bivariate correlation coefficientbetween The partial correlations between yarn count and each
yarn twist factor and fabric tightnessfactor was nearly of the remaining construction parameterswere all very
between
zero. The linear associationbetween yarn twist lactor low (partial r < 0.19, not significantat a 5Volevel)'
r r n / fa b n c
.lS = not and loop shapefaclor was again low (r : 0.32)' The strong, simple (bivariate) correlation between
'? level. :
fabric tightnessfactor and loop shapefactor ( r 0'91 )
P n R l t n r L I N E A RC o n R E L n r t o N S becomes even stronger when partial correlation be-
The results discussedabove clearly demonstrate that tween these two parameters is considered (partial r
)op shape
: 0.96 ). The weak correlation betweenyarn twist factor
factor moderateto strong interdependenceof fabric spirality
now results in a moderately
on the one hand and yarn twist factor as well as fabric and loop shape factor
strong partial correlation (partial r: 0"19)' An increase
0.26 tightnessfactor on the other hand. The simple (bivar-
spirality and hence in-
(NS) iate) correlation coefficientsin Table Vla do not pro- in twist factor promotes fabric
66
directly affects the loop shape. The moderate direct
association between yarn twist factor and fabric tight-
nessfactor (while controlling the effect of the remaining
two constructional variables) is noteworthy, since both
these parameters also reveal moderate to strong bivar-
iate associationwith fabric spirality.
Multiple Linear RegressionAnalysis
TrRusExcluoeo
INrEnncrroN
We made a stepwisemultiple linear regressionanal-
ysis of the averagevalues of fabric spirality (reported
in Table II ) for the washedand tumbledried specimens
using sess software. According to this method, the
variablesare enteredor removed one by one in a series
of regressionsteps, provided they meet some prese-
lected statistical criteria. The variable selectedis that
which explains the greatestamount of variance unex-
plained by those variables already in the equation.
Similarly, any variable in the equation that fails the
significancetest of the contribution may be removed
from the regressionequation. Table VII showsthe pre-
diction accuracy( in terms of multiple correlation coef-
ficients) of fabric spirality with an increasingnumber
of yarn/fabric experimental variables(yarn tex, yarn
twist factor, fabric tightnessfactor, loop shapefactor ).
Yarn twist factor and fabric tightnessfactor represent
the two most important construction parameters(sig-
nificant at l7o level) for predicting spirality angle in
the single-jerseycotton knitted fabrics. The first, most
Tesrr VIl. Prediction of fabric spirality with an increasing number
of yarn/fabric constructional parameters(step-wisemethod)
Multiple
correlation Percentage
Step Facton coefficient,R variance explained
I Twist factor (ZF) 0.14
2 Tightness factor (K) 0.95 9 l .r
3 Shape factor (S) 0.96 91.8
influential parameter, yarn twist factor, explains ap-
proximately 5570of the variance in the data on fabric
spirality. When both yarn twist factor and fabric tight-
ness factor are considered together, however, they ac-
count for approximately 9IVo of the variance in fabric
spirality. The inclusion of the next parameter, loop
shape factor ( significant 4Volevel), accounts for only
a marginal improvement (less than l%o)in the variance
of fabric spirality. Note that the yarn count parameter
was not included in the regressionequation becauseit
failed the default statistical inclusion criterion ( 57olevel
of significance). The resultant linear regressionequa-
JOUNNNL
IEXTILE RESEARCH
tions (for fabric spirality) of practical importance are
given below:
Spirality : 13.5 + 0.95 TF - L89 K,
multiple correlation coefficient : 0.95
(first two stepsof regressionconsidered),
or
S p i r a l i t y: 9 . 8 + 0 . 8 2 T F - 2 . 8 4K + 1 8 . 5 1S
( first three steps of regressionconsidered),
multiple correlation coefficient : 0.96,
where the units of spirality, twist factor (?'F), and
tightnessfactor (K) are degree.texr/r x tpc and texri2
X cm-r , respectively.
INrenncrroN TERMSINCI-I.;oeo
We also performed a stepwisemultiple linear regres-
sion analysis,including the two-way interaction terms
of the four construction parameters, in order to ex-
amine their effectson spirality. Table VIII shows the
prediction accuracy ( in terms of multiple correlation
coefficient r), of fabric spirality with an increasing
number of experimental variables( yarn tex, yarn twist
f,actor, fabric tightness flactor, shape factor, and two-
way interaction terms involving thesefour construction
parameters). The interaction term, twist factor
X tightnessfactor, is now included at the secondstep,
and the fabric loop shapefactor is included at the third
step of the stepwiseregressionanalysis.The remaining
terms-yarn count, fabric tightness factor, all inter-
action terms involving shapefactor, interaction terms
involving yarn count with tightness factor and yarn
count with twist factor-fail to satisfy the statistical
criteria for inclusion in the regressionequation.
Tnere VIII. Predictionof fabric spirality with an increasingnumber
of experimental variables (constructional parameters and their
interaction terms) (step-wis€method).
Multiple
correlation Percentage
Step Factors coelficient variance explained
I Twist factor (TI-) 0 . 74 54.5
2 TFY.K 0.97 94.1
J Shape factor (S) 0.98 95.5
The result indicates that the interaction term ln-
volving yarn twist and fabric tightness factor has a large
effect on fabric spirality. The multiple correlation coef-
ficient increasesfrom 0.74 (twist factor alone in the
regressionequation ) to 0.97 when the interaction term
involving yarn twist factor and fabric tightness factor
is included in the regression equation. The resultant
 -

67
NAL JqxunnY 1997

of the multiple linear regressionanalysisof the four con-

I are hnear regressionequations (for fabric spirality)
struction parameterstogether with their two-way in-
practicalimportance are given below: (twlst
teraction terms, we found that the parameter
-13.0 + 1.87 TF-- 0'07 TF x K
Spirality: factor X tightness factor) had a larger (compared to
tightnessfactor alone) effect at the second step ofthe
(first two stepsof regressionconsidered).
regressionprocedure.The two parameters-yarn twlst
red ), m u l t i P l er : 0 . 9 1 , and ttre interaction term involving twist factor and
()r tightness factor-account for 94Voof the variance in
predicting fabric spirality. The study clearly demon-
-
S p i r a l i t y: - 3 4 . 3 + 2 . 2 4 T t ' . 0 ' 1 0 r u ' x K + 2 3 ' 3 ' S stratesthat the problem of fabric spirality is much more
( first three stepsof regressionconsidered). serious fcrr loosely knitted fabrics from highly twisted
yarns.
0.96, m u l t i P l er : 0 . 9 8 .

, and wherethe units ol'spirality.twist lactor ( Z'). tightness AC.KNOWI -EIX;MEN'I

l"l
tex tactor(K). and loop shapefactor(S) are degree,texr'l
I We gratefully acknowledgethc financial support re-
x tpc. texr/r X cm and unitless.respectively'
ceived from the ResearchGrants Council for the work
reported in this PaPer.
Conclusions
egres-
This paper presentsan experimentalinvestigation
terms Literature Cited
of thc effectsof yarn and f-abricconstructionalvariables
to ex-
(larn linear density.yarn twist tactor' fabric tightness
rvsthe ASTM D3882-t18.StandardTcst Method for Bow and
lactor.and loop shapelactor) on the spirality of lab- Skcwnessin Woverrand Knitted Fabncs'
lation fabrics'In order
orator\ producedcotton single-jersey Bancrjce.P. K.. and Alaiban. T. S ' Geometry and Di-
easing produced knitted
to obtain a stablestate.the laboratory mcnsionalPropertics ol'Plain l-oops Made of Rotor Spun
r twist two clcles of a
cotton specimens\!'ere subjected to (-otton Yarns. Part t: Outline ot'Problem and Experi-
I two-
r i a s h i n ga t 6 0 ' C / t u m b l e d r y i n g s e q u e n c eT. h e s tud-v n . r e n t aAl p p r o a c h .7 t ' . r t l 1 t ' R c rJ. 5 8 , 1 2 3 - 1 2 8( 1 9 8 8 ) '
uction
hasrevealedthat yarn twist and fabric tightness are the l . Banerjee.P. K.. and Alaiban. T. S ' Geometry and Di-
factor to fabric spi- mensionalProperties of Plain Loops Made of Rotor Spun
most predominant factors contributing
d step, Colton Yarns, Part III: Spirality of the Walc Line, Te'rtilc
ralitr-.The experimental results also demonstrate the
e third Rcs. ./. 58. 287-290 ( I 988 ) .
importanceof relaxation treatment on fabric spirality'
aining Banerjee,P. K., and Alaiban' T. S', Geometry and Di-
The empirical relationshipsbetween fabric spirality
inter- mensional Properties of Plain Loops Made of Rolor Spun
and the four yarn/fabric construction parametersare
r t€fITlS Cotton Yarns. Part IV: The Shape of the Loop, Tt'xtile
also analyzed using statisticaltechniques. The results R t ' s .J 5 8 , 3 6 5 - 3 6 9( 1 9 8 8 ) .
d yarn
of simple (bivariate) and partial correlation analyses 5. British Stantjard 28 l9:1990, Methods for Measuring
tistical
demonstrateagain that the degreeof spirality is affected Bow. Skew and Lengthway Distortion in Woven and
mainly by the yarn twist factor and fabric tightness Knitted Fabrics.
i numbcr tactor. A strong linear association exists between fabric Buhler. G.. and Haussler. W', In{luences Affecting the
-3-l'7
nd their
tightnessfactor and loop shape factor. The study has Skew of Single JerseyFabrics,K n i t t i ng T et'h 7, 373
revealed that the steady-state loop shape for the ( 1 9 8 5 ) 8; , 4 1 - 4 5( 1 9 8 6 )
washed/tumble-dried specimens knitted from ring 1 . Buhler, G.. and Haid, H., What Distinguishes Fabrics
Knitted from Ring or Rotor Spun Yarns' Textil Prax'
tpitn !atns is not unique: the result is consistentwith - raf'tl
Int 16. i x-'..
thr'ttbsenationsof Banerjeeand Alaiban [4] made for x . ' : , ' . 1 ' 1 i i . P ri-: {n lntctrrlal {i!
rl Burkitt. I l{ . I
inrttr'd lbbncs using rotor spun cotton yarns. ' : ( . ' : : . . nK n r " s .P a n I
proach l,r Shnnieg'l (.'i::'
L singthe stepwisemethod of multiple linear regres- Introduc!t,tn J n d I X ' l ) n : ' . ] " : ' : : : r c R : t c r c n c c5 t a ! c '
ston.rve have derived empirical equations(for fabric K n t l r t r t g/ r l i 9 - 1 .- l l - - l l
e\A
spiralitr) of practical importance. The resultsof the t 1 c \ n i u t , , . \ 1 I ) l ; 1 . :\ : l ' r : :
( \\ \lrrlli'."
"l
Knlltcd

rtcrcssionanalysisreveal that approximatel.v55ui ot' I e h r t . : . I ' . t . 1I 1 r ' - \ ' : : . . - - : ' : . 1 : i : ; ' , '.. . R, ' /

t h r ' r u r i a n c ei n t h e t a b r i c s p i r a l i t l 'o f t h e s p t - c r m e n s 59. l-l- l'"

' ( \ i r t : . r . l l . . , 1K n r t t c t l
l , s i 1 ' 1111 c r ' p l a i n a hhl er t h e I ' a r n t w i s l l a c t o ra l c l n eI' n - t l c \ i : i u t , ' \ 1 L ) . , 1. :
\\
'\'' :r \l'ilttltnL ] tehntrlitg)
.i\r\rn()l the lahric tightncssl-ac1or (togetherwtth varn llil.r.s.I).rllIl I .t::-:
' .i ,'. j'], '' 19' i<Lr,l-.r. l9\ql
. i ! . r ) L l p t \l i ) r i ) l , i ( a n a d d i t i o n a ll $ ( l r m p r O v c - \jl't \llr.l,ll". /, '
'il , ) j R ( ) l , r t r r ) nr ) t ( l f C u l a f
- ' i l l r ' i l l c\ i t r l i l n c ct r t ' t a b r i sc p r r a l i n .\ \ ' h c n * c m l d c II .l. l.i [],,rttlil. i:. I ::- I ) ::'l:
68
Knitting Machinesand Spiralityin Knitted JerseyFabnc.
I t . 4 ' r R . t l.3 ( I 9 7 5 ) .
l l . I)avis.W.. and Edwards.C. H.. Spiralit-vin Knitted Fab-
r i c s .J . 7 t ' . r r r 1 t ' I n s r . 2 5l l.l - 1 3 2 ( 1 9 3 4 ) .
l 3 Haigh.John. Loop Distortionin PlainKnit Fabrics.Il (n1
S c ' /R. o ' 6 4 . 8 l - I l 9 ( 1 9 8 7 ) .
t1cap. S. A.. Greenwood. P. F.. Leah. R. D., Eaton,
J. T.. Stcvens.J. C.. and Keher.P.. Predictionof Finished
Wcight and Shrinkageof C'otton Knits-Thc Star{ish
Project. Part I: Introduction and General Overvtew.
T ' L , t r i l t ' R t ' s .5. 3/ . 1 0 9 - l l 9 ( l 9 t t 3 ) .
1 5 .H c a p . S . A . . G r c c n w o o d .P . F . . l . e a h . R . D . , E a t o n '
J. 1.. Stcvcns,J. C.. and Kchcr. P.. Prcdictiono{'Finished
Wcight and Shrinkagcof' ('otton Knits-Thc Startish
Projcct.Part ll: Shrinkagcand thc Rcll'rcnccStatc.Tilr-
rrlc llc.s../ 55. 2 | l -22) ( l9li5 ).
l 6 llcpwortl'r. 8.. Spirality in Knitted IjabricsC'ausedby
'l
wist-livell' Yarns: A ThcoreticalInvcstigation.:lIalliund
Ilrtilhcr 7.{.515-5 1 6 .t r l l l - l l 3 ( 1 9 9 3 ) .
t l lwS Tcst Mcthod No. 276. Mcthod ol'-I'estfbr the Mca-
surcmentof thc Angle ot'Spiralit-vin Knittcd Fabncs.
Texrtle RessnncsJoURNAL
I t i Knapton,J. J. F.. and Fong.W.. The DimensionalProp-
erties of Knitted Wool Fabrics, Te.rtilc Res.J. 41,894-
8 9 9( l 9 7 r ) .
l 9 Lord. P. R.. Mohamed. M. H.. and Ajgaonkar.D. B..
The Performanceof Open-End. Twistless.and Ring
Yarns in Weft Knitted Fabrics.Teililc Res.J. 44,405-
4t4 ( 1914).
20 Munden. D. L.. The Gcometry and DimensionalProp-
crtics of Plain-Knit Fabrics,J T't',ttilL'/n.rl. 50, 458-41 |
i l 9 5 9) .
l l . Nurting.T. S..Spiralityin Wefi Knittcd Fabrics.Ilttsit'rv
Rcs llull. 4. l8--l I ( 1960).
l l Posrlc.R.. [)imensionalStabilitl of Plain-KnittedFab-
r i c s .. / 7 i ' v t i l r ' l i r r r .5 9 . 6 5 - 7 7 ( 1 9 6 8 ) .
, t- Stcrens.J. C.. I-heStartrshf'rojcct: An IntegratedAp-
proach to ShrinkageC'ontrol in (-otlon Knits. Part 2:
'fhc
Influcnce ol' Knitting and Finishing Variableson
thc Rclaxcd ( Rcfi:rcnceStatc) Dimcnsictns'Knitting Int.
9 3 , 8 0 - 8 3( l 9 t t 6 ) .
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