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Tire Tech Tire Sizing
Wheel Tech Tire & Wheel Packages
Passenger Tire sizing is typically displayed as: The easiest tool to find
Tire Size Calculator the best package for
Tire & Wheel Glossary P215/65R15 89H your vehicle.
www.1010Tires.com/Packages
Air Pressure The "P" stands for "P-Metric" or "Passenger". This means that it is a North American tire
Alignment sizing designation. European tires typically don't have the "P" attached to the size. Tires
Load Ratings with higher ply ratings will generally start with "LT" which stands for "Light Truck". This
Mixing Tires indicates the tire is an LT metric and will always have a Load Range indicated. It is
Mounting & Balancing important to note this for vehicles that call for LT metric tires. Never substitute a P metric
Noise & Vibration Problems tire for an LT metric tire, even if all the other dimensions are the same. ''
Puncture Repairs
The "215" is the width of a tire, also known as the "section width". This is the width of the
Sidewall Styles
tire in millimeters at its widest point from sidewall to sidewall when mounted on the
Speed Ratings
recommended rim width. The actual tire width can vary depending on the rim width it is
Tire Rotation
mounted on.
Tire Sizing
Tire Storage The "65"is known as the Aspect Ratio. It is calculated by dividing the section height by the
Treadwear Indicator section width and multiplying by 100. (In this example, the sidewall will be 65% of 215)
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
When to Replace Tires The "R" stands for Radial, meaning it has a radial construction. Radial tires have ply cords
that extend to the beads and are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread, the
carcass being stabilized by a circumferential belt. Other possibilities include "B" for belted
construction and "D" for diagonal construction. This means the ply cords extend to the
beads and are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

The "15" stands for the diameter of the wheel in inches. This is the exact size that this tire
will fit. There are some older rims called "TRX" which are metric measurements like 390.
You CAN NOT mix TRX rims with regular tires or vise-versa.

The "89" is the load index

The "H" is the speed symbol.

Speed Ratings
The speed rating of any tire is a measurement of the top safe speed the tire can carry a load
under specified conditions. It is also an indication of how the tire will handle at lower speeds. A
higher rated tire will give you better traction and improved steering response even at 50mph.

Below is a listing of common speed ratings:

Q = 99 MPH, 160km/h
S = 112 MPH, 180km/h
T = 118 MPH, 190km/h
U = 124 MPH, 200km/h
H = 130 MPH, 210km/h
V = 149 MPH, 240km/h
Z = 149 MPH, 240km/h and over
W = 168 MPH, 270km/h

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Y = 186 MPH, 300km/h

It is not recommended to downgrade your tires to a lower speed rating than of the OEM tires that
came with your vehicle at the time of purchase. Doing so can effect the handling of the car, and in
an emergency situation that can be dangerous. Also, never mix tires with different speed ratings
on your vehicle.

Load Ratings
The load rating for any tire (load index) indicates the maximum weight that each tire is able to
support. Below is a quick rating of common Load Indexes:

Load Index Pounds (lbs) Kilograms (kgs)


60 551 250
61 567 257
62 584 265
63 600 272
64 617 280
65 639 290
66 662 300
67 677 307
68 695 315
69 717 325
70 739 335
71 761 345
72 783 355
73 805 365
74 827 375
75 853 387
76 882 400
77 908 412
78 937 425
79 964 437
80 990 450
81 1018 462
82 1047 475
83 1074 487
84 1102 500
85 1135 515
86 1168 530
87 1201 545
88 1234 560
89 1278 580
90 1323 600
91 1356 615
92 1389 630
93 1433 650
94 1477 670
95 1521 690
96 1565 710
97 1609 730
98 1653 750
99 1708 775
100 1764 800
101 1819 825
102 1874 850
103 1929 875
104 1984 900
105 2039 925
106 2095 950
107 2149 975
108 2205 1000
109 2271 1030
110 2337 1060
111 2403 1090
112 2469 1120
113 2535 1150
114 2601 1180
115 2679 1215
116 2750 1250
117 2833 1285
118 2911 1320
119 2999 1360
120 3080 1400
121 3197 1450
122 3308 1500
123 3410 1550
124 3528 1600

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125 3638 1650

Sidewall Markings

Here are some other markings you may find on your tire's sidewall:

The M+S (also displayed as M&S or M-S) indicates the tire has all season capabilities.
You will find this on almost all all season and winter tires. Summer tires will not have this
designation. For a tire to get this designation, it must have a specified tread-to-void ratio,
however it does not mean that the tire has passed any actual tests for it effectiveness in
severe conditions.

indicates a Severe Snow Conditions rating. Tires bearing this symbol will provide
snow performance superior to tires only bearing the M+S symbol. These are the safest
tires for any kind of winter driving. Some ski resorts will not even let you up their mountain
if you do not have this symbol on your tires.
DOT stands for Department of Transportation. The 10, 11 or 12 digit code appearing after
the DOT designation gives information such as the week and year the tire was produced,
as well as the manufacturer, plant, tire line, and size. The first 2 characters designate the
tire's manufacturer and plant code. The third, fourth and fifth characters, are the tire size
code. The last three or four numbers (4 numbers for years after 2000) are when the tire
was manufactured. The first two digits of the date code represent the week and the last 1
or 2 digits represent the year.
Maximum Inflation Pressure is the highest inflation pressure that the tire can withstand.
This is not, however, the recommended inflation pressure. Inflation pressures should never
be below the recommended pressure or above the maximum pressure branded on the
sidewall.
Also see Air Pressure.

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Sidewall Descriptions
Below is a quick legend to notations describing the appearance of the tire's sidewall.

Sidewall Marking Meaning


BCS BLACK CIRCUMFERENCIAL SERRATION
BL BLACK LETTERS
BSL BLACK SERRATED LETTERS
BSB BROKEN SERRATED BAND
ENWL EXTRA NARROW WHITE LETTERS
ROBL RAISED OUTLINED BLACK LETTERS
OWL OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
OBL OUTLINED BLACK LETTERS
OGL OUTLINED GOLD LETTERS
ORBL OUTLINED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
ORWL OUTLINED RAISED WHITE LETTERS
OWL OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
RBL RAISED BLACK LETTERS
RWL RAISED WHITE LETTERS
RRBL RECESSED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
SBL SERRATED BLACK LETTERS
SRBL SERRATED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
SOWL SLANTED OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
SVSB SLANTED VERTICAL SERRATED BAND
VSB VERTICAL SERRATED BAND
WL WHITE LETTERS
WS WHITE STRIPE
WW WHITE WALL

Uniform Tire Quality Grading


The Uniform Tire Quality Grading rating is a quality rating system developed by the American
Department of Transportation. It is designed to tell consumers the relative performance of
passenger tires (but does not apply to winter tires).

Below is an example of a UTQG Rating:

150A B

The "150" indicates the treadwear rating


the "A" indicates traction
the "B" indicates temperature

The Treadwear rating is based on a wear test performed on a 400 mile government test course
covering specified sections of public roads in Texas. A group of not more than 4 test vehicles
travels the course in a convoy so that all tires experience the same conditions. Tread groove
depths of the tires being tested are measured after each 800 miles. The same procedure is
followed for a set of "control" or "course monitoring tires" Upon the completion of the 7200 mile
test, the rating results of both tires are compared, and the tires being tested are assigned a
treadwear rating according to government standards. This number can be used to compare
between tires. In the above example, this tire rated 150 should last 1/2 as long as a tire rated
300. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may
be significantly different from the norm due to differences in road characteristics and climate.

The Traction ratings are AA, A, B, and C, from highest to lowest. This measurement indicates a
tires ability to stop in a straight line on wet pavement. The rating is based on a 40mph test where
the brakes are "locked up" on wet asphalt and wet concrete surfaces. It's important to remember
that this rating does not indicate the tires ability to resists hydroplaning, and do not apply to
cornering traction.

Temperature ratings are determined by running tires on an indoor roadwheel test under specified
conditions. Successive 30 minute runs are made in 5mph increments starting at 75mph and
continuing until the tires fails. Tires with an A rating must withstand at least 114mph, B at least
99mph, and C at least 85mph. These measurements indicate the tire's ability to sustain high
temperatures which often cause tires to wear away quickly or in extreme conditions lead to
sudden tire failure.

Mixing Tires
Generally tires should not be mixed on any vehicle. To receive maximum safety and performance
it is preferable to keep every tire on a vehicle identical in size, brand, model, rating etc. One of
the only exceptions is if the front and rear wheels are different like on all Porsche's and other high
performance vehicles.

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Tire Storage
Storing Winter Tires
The best place to store winter tires is in a cool, dry location. (Basement, or possibly a garage).
You can lay them down flat, stacked on top of each other no taller than 4 high. This offers the
most support and should eliminate any fitting problems the following fall. We also recommend that
you return to the store/dealer from where you purchased your tires from and ask for storage
bags. This will protect the tires from natural ozone in the air which can cause tire rubber to dry
and crack. Wrap each tire individually and stack them. Stored tires should be kept away from
electric motors or welders as these produce ozone which will damage the rubber over time.

Air Pressure
Are your tires set at the optimum inflation? Chances are they are anywhere from 8psi to 18psi less than
recommended. The most common way of damaging tires is improper inflation. Low air pressure causes tires
to experience irregular treadwear as well as poor vehicle handling and traction. Under inflated tires can
build up excessive heat and blow out without warning.

Keeping your tires set at the manufacturer's recommended pressure is one of the easiest ways of saving
gasoline, increasing tire treadlife, and ensuring safety. An Arizona Energy Office Report notes if your tires
are inflated to 24psi, and you increase the air pressure to 32psi, your fuel mileage should increase by 3
miles per gallon (an average increase of 10%!)

Always check your air pressure and make adjustments when the tires are cold (tires have not been driven
for 2 hours). Air pressure should be checked bi-weekly at the very least. This is important because as
outside temperatures change, so does tire air pressure. A 10 degree drop in temperature can reduce tire
pressure by 1psi. That means if you set your pressures in the July and don't check them again until
December, you could have lost several psi, decreasing fuel mileage and causing pre-mature tire wear. Also
remember to check your spare tire for loss of air.

If you are unsure how to use an air pressure gauge and hose, your local tire shop should be willing to show
you the correct procedure. Always use a good quality tire pressure gauge that is not on a hose. The tire
gauges built into the air hoses at your local garage have generally not been maintained and can not be
trusted to be accurate.

*Note, air pressures can be “tuned”, however you should NEVER exceed the maximum pressure branded
on the tire’s sidewall, and NEVER set pressures lower than recommended in the vehicle’s owners manual.
Also, if you have altered your tire size from original, then the minimum pressure may need to be adjusted.
Consult a rim/tire professional for correct pressures.

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Tread Wear Indicator


As your tires wear down, their ability to grip the road decreases. Each tire has what are known
as wear bars. These appear at various points around the tire as bars running through the tread
design from one side of the tire to the other. When your tires are legally worn out (2/32") the
tread will be at the same level as the tread wear indicators and they will be easily visible. Usually
before the tire gets to this point, they will begin to feel unsafe. If that is the case, do not wait for
them to get to the wear bars. Just because the tread depth is not as low as the tread wear bar,
does not mean it is safe.

Tire Rotation
Because each tire on your car typically supports a different amount of weight, and your driving
patterns will typically wear out one tire faster than the others, it's important to rotate your tires
every 5000 to 8000 miles. Rotation patterns differ depending on what kind of vehicle you drive.
The best place to check is in your vehicle's owners manual. If you can not find what you are
looking for, below are some diagrams showing you the most common patterns.

Of course, if your vehicle has different sizes of tires from front to back, or if your tires are
directional, these may not work. Consult a professional if you are still not sure.

Alignment
Vehicle alignment is one of the most important factors in not only vehicle care, but tire care.
Improper alignment on either the front or rear wheels can result in unusual tread wear, damage to
your suspension, and unusual handling for the car. Wheel alignments should be performed every
time you install a new set of tires, and any time you experience an impact such as a large pot
hole, curb, or other obstacle. For maintenance purposes, alignment should be checked every
30,000 km (about 18,700 miles).

There are several alignment types, including both two and four wheel alignment. Four wheel
alignment is always recommended, but some vehicles are not able to have the rear alignment
adjusted. Consult with an alignment specialist you trust to find out what's best for your car.

Warning signs that you might need an alignment are your car pulling to one side or another, and
irregular tire wear.

Puncture Repairs
A puncture to any area of a tire's tread will affect performance and safety, and therefore must be
immediately attended to through either replacement of the tire (spare or new tire) or a patch. Any
patch that is applied to a tire must be applied to both the outer part of the tire (tread) and the
inner part of the tire. The reason for this is that the rubber on each side is very different (inside is
made of halobutyl rubber meant for holding air, while the outside is a harder durable rubber
primarily designed for traction). A good tire repair can only be made if the tire is removed from
the rim (wheel) and inspected carefully for any hidden damage. Only straight through holes, 3/16"
or smaller diameter may be repaired, when no secondary damage has ocured.

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Noise and Vibration Problems


Below are the most common (but not the only) causes of noise and vibration problems:

Tire / wheel assembly is out of balance

No hub centric rings on aftermarket wheels >Buy Hub Centric Rings

Incorrect mounting hardware for aftermarket wheels

Tire is poorly seated on the rim

Irregular tire wear

Out of round rim

Out of round tire

Do not ignore apparent impacts, pulling, or vibration. This could be an indicator of tire damage as
much as mechanical problems that should be inspected by a professional. If there is a problem
with your tires and the way they have been installed they will most likely begin to shake and
vibrate your vehicle at between 50 and 65 mph.

When do you need to Replace Tires?


Tires are typically replaced when their natural lifespan has come to an end. There are however
any number of factors that can affect this including storage, temperature, surfaces they are driven
on, how aggressive of a driver you are, punctures, etc.

The usual recommendation for replacing tires is when they no longer feel safe to the driver. You
can see when they are legally worn out using the tread wear indicator. A typical set of tires under
normal driving conditions will last approximately 40 000 miles or 64 000 km. Some tires of-course
are designed for much longer, even up to 80 000 miles or 128 000 kilometers.

Mounting and Balancing


When mounting wheels & tires on to the vehicle, ensure the following checks are made:

Wheels are not damaged in any way

There is no dirt or oily build up between the hub and the wheel

Lugs are properly torqued

Both tire beads are securely mounted

Any retaining clips on the brake drums are removed

Tires are manufactured to close tolerances, however as they wear their mass can become
unevenly distributed, negatively effecting the original balance. The most common signs of
unbalanced tires are vibration problems. These can affect the speed, handling and mileage of
your vehicle. Balancing is done by a computer that spins the wheel / tire assembly, senses heavy
spots, and gives a location for the technician to apply weight to counter the heavy spots. The best
type of balance is a dynamic balance, and this should be performed whenever possible. (Some
rim designs will not allow this type of balance and you would have to settle for a static balance)

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