Discovery

1
Aunu’u
10 Island
9
2 4
3 8
5
Aunu’u stands apart from Tutuila. Her fiery origin,
a cinder tuff volcano. Nature’s whim left her with a 6 7
diverse and vibrant eco-system of lowland forest and
even lower brackish crater lake: a unique and diverse
part of the Samoan archipelago.

Water taxi: Our trip begins at the Fagatogo Market Place. Look
for the Tula Bus. At Auasi, water taxis come and go at all hours. Best
to be there early while traffic is heavy. Our skipper took us safely
across. His helper kept a fishing line out. (for lunch?)
The Umu: Traditional life abounds on Aunu’u. This family’s earth
oven prepares meals exactly as their ancestors did thousands of years
ago.Without the distractions of modern living, Aunu’u residents enjoy
the serentity of a time lost by most of us.
Pandamus Grove: One of the most useful plants in Samoan culture.
The screwpine, with its prickly leaves and stalks provides the basic
material for sleeping mats, ceremonial fine mats, fans, hats and baskets.
This grove was the most beautiful I had ever encountered.
Eastern Cove: Deep in the rainforest I first heard the pounding
surf at the cove. Quite suddenly, at the top of a ridge, the land dropped
away radically and a rocky cove met the waves. From my perch, sea
terns floated above looking for a meal in the choppy water below.

Beaches: Surprisingly, Aunu’u has the finest beaches in American Crater Lake: In Aunu’u’s volcanic crater a fresh water lake sits
Samoa. The sugar white sand edges against the pure waters of the undisturbed. Its brackish water supports an abundance of life and
Pacific. Looking across at Tutuila was a time warp experience to be gives Aunu’u a unique place amoung thousands of Pacific islands
treasured.

Taro Fields: On the low flats behind the village are the swamp taro Quicksand Lake: The residents made no mistake about it. Be
plantations. Ingenious villagers built raised paths through the fields to careful. I’m afraid my mind traveled back to those “B” movies where
plant and harvest their crop. Aunu’u taro is prized for its moist the girl was sinking fast in the quicksand pit and the hero got to her
texture and rich flavor. with the rope just in time.

Rainforest: I veered from the trail and headed up to the ridge top. Aunu’u Village: Six hours later I was back at the wharf. Behind me
Within a few minutes the diverse rainforest exploded into several an adventure, before me, a way of life never known by most people.
micro environments; fiscus, ferms, stranglers, berringtonia and lianas. As a visitor, my welcome was gracious and inviting. I had experienced
Every few steps was a new ecological experience. the soothing life of slow growth and slower changing traditions.

Concierge

My trip to the east side and Aunu’u was enriched with

Coral Reef Lovers
education, a great hamburger and a cold beer. In the village
Our Mission
of Alofau I found the Coalition of Coral Reef Lovers (see left).
Welcome to the Coral Reef
Alliance (CORAL), the only A few clicks down the road in the seaside viillage of Amouli
international organization
working exclusively to save the bus driver dropped me at Sam Vaouli’s hamburger place.
coral reefs. CORAL provides
education, tools, and Genuine homemade fare, I took my burger to go and quickly
inspiration to help local
communities become
found myself sitting before a placid beach, endless horizon Hidden away in plain site. The spa
passionate environmental and a cold beer. I had found the place Lonely Planet Traveler at Evalani’s. Free for guests.
stewards for the reefs.
Together we develop calls, “The Best Beach Bar in the South Pacific.” Tisa’a Barefoot
managed marine protected
areas and sustainable Bar.
businesses to benefit coral
Looking out from my deck above the waves, Aunu’u was
reefs and people. The Old Tramway Overlook in Utulei.
a shadow in the distance. In my memory she was cool, sexy Romantic Rondevous or scenic outlook?
Learn more »
http://www.coral.org/ and inviting. Tisa’s Barfoot Bar does that to you!