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Parts:
The next three part numbers were sourced from Radio Shack:
2701079 (qty 1) 5 amp blade fuse $1.39
2701213 (qty 1) blade fuse holder $2.29
6403039 (qty 2) female disconnect lugs $1.69
Tools: Various hand tools, (see photo #1). Install time is about 1.5
hours, depending on your skill level.
Prep work:
4. Remove the fuse box/relay rack cover under the hood on the drivers
side using a ? mm hex key, 5 mm maybe? (see photo #2).
Wiring:
1. Carefully insert the contact bushings into the shutter socket plugs –
they only go in one way. (see photo #3). Use a magnifying glass if
need be. Cover the leads with heat-shrinkable tubing, leaving about 6
in exposed. Shrink the tubing, but don’t melt the wire. Set aside.
2.Solder a 2 ft long 16 gauge lead onto the LCM contact bushing end.
This eventually connects to pin 86 on the relay. Cover the solder joint
with heat shrink tube and shrink it. The shutters are controlled
separately at the LCM, however we’re only using a single relay for both
shutters, so for our purposes we only need one lead.
3. Cut the cap off the fuse holder. Insert a 5 amp blade fuse. Epoxy
the fuse-holder to the side of the relay with the part number on it (see
photo #4). Cut one of the fuse holder leads to length of 4in. Slide heat
shrink tube over the lead. Solder a female lug onto the lead. Slide the
tube over the solder joint and shrink it. Plug this lug into pin #30 on
the relay. Leave the other lead for later.
1. With the dash trim removed, unscrew the Phillips head screw
securing the LCM and pull out the light switch module. Wiggle/pull as
necessary, it will eventually come out.
2. Release the white clip holding the multi-pin connector to the LCM.
Unplug it from the LCM.
5. Slide the blue/brown plugs out of the plastic retainer (see photo
#5). NOTE WHICH SIDE GOES WHERE in the connector.
7. CAREFULLY insert the LCM contact bushing into PIN #2 on the blue
plug – (see photo #6) – insert ONLY as shown. Double check that it
goes to pin #2.
8. Route and wire-tie the contact bushing wire lead into the LCM
harness and fish it back into the foot well.
10. Plug the retainer into the LCM and snap the white collar over the
connector.
11. Install the LCM; waste 10 minutes searching for the screw.
12.Fish the contact lead down into the drivers foot well and out the
firewall adjacent to the harness, to the left (see photo #7, little red
wire, right side halfway up). Be patient, it will eventually reappear in
the relay rack under the hood.
13. Open the hood and remove the fuse box cover on the driver’s side
(if you have not done so already).
14. Gently wiggle the plastic tray upward in the relay rack. (see photo
#8).
15. Loudly curse the insane Bavarian engineer who designed this
!@#$% tray.
16. Locate the lead you just fished from the LCM and tape it to the
side of the plastic tray near the front of the car.
17. Retrieve the relay from wherever you have stored it. Tape the 87
and 85 leads the entire length to make a cool looking harness.
18. Fish the two 87 leads and the 85 lead under the tray and out the
corrugated rubber boot toward the headlights. See photo #9 . I used
the nipple underneath the rubber boot, as it was unused on my car..
First cut an X with an exacto knife. Tape the leads to MIG welding wire
(or a coat hanger), and push them out the nipple. Pull remaining
harness through leaving about 6 in to work with. (see photo #10).
19. Plug the sockets into the bi-xenon shutters on the ballast.
20. Cut the drivers side bi-xenon lead to length and solder it to one of
the 87 leads. (see photo #11). Seal the solder joint with heat shrink
tube (you did put the tube on, right?).
21. Remove the air snorkel and set is aside (pry the 3 pins upward and
remove the pushpins and the retainers).
22. Insert the other lead 87 into a 2ft section of wire-wrap tubing. (see
photo #12).
23. Fish the wire wrap tubing ABOVE the radiator, but underneath the
radiator support brace (see photo #13).
24. Secure the wire-wrap tube with 3 wire-ties into the cutouts on the
brace.
26. Cut the passenger side bi-xenon lead to length and solder it to the
other 87 lead; seal the solder joint with shrink tube. (see photo 14).
27. Locate the body jig stud adjacent to the airbox – this will be the
ground for the relay. Cut the 85 lead to length and solder a ¼ in round
lug; seal the solder joint with heat shrink tube (see photo #15).
Secure the lug with a ¼-28 nut and a star washer. Double nut it with a
chrome plated acorn nut if you are a detail freak like me.
28. Have another beer and congratulate yourself; as you are nearly
done.
29.Untape the LCM lead from the relay rack, trim to length and solder
a female lug onto it. Connect this to pin 86 on the relay. This is the
+ve lead to the relay coil.
Testing
31. Get out your multimeter. ( a cheap meter is $10 from Harbor
Freight, buy one, it is extremely handy).
32. Set the scale to 20vDC. Connect the ground lead of the meter to
the lug near the airbox. DISCONNECT PIN 86 ON THE RELAY and
connect it to the +ve lead on the meter.
Enjoy
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