Crochet

A.This is my version.
This will take 3-4 balls of Sugar'n'Cream or similar yarn (depending on handles, or if you decide
on more or less ruffles)
Sugar'n'Cream comes in 70.9 gm balls, which is what I used, and is a worsted weight cotton, one
ball is about 120 yards.

Size F hook
Yarn needle
Stitches abbreviations-
ch=chain
sl st= slip stitch
st= stitch
hdc= half double crochet
sc=single crochet
dc=double crochet

Purse body:
Ch 26, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st down the length (I like to start my purse bodies like this
because it seems to make them just a bit more secure)

Rnd 1: ch 1 to turn, 2 sc in first ch, sc in next 23 chs, 4 sc in last ch, start working up the other
side, sc in next 23

chs, 2 sc in last ch (same stitch the first 2 sc are in) sl st to join to first sc

Rnd 2: ch 1 to turn, hdc in first st, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 23 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in
next st, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 23 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hd in first st, sl st to join

Rnd 3: ch 1 to turn, 2 hdc in first st, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 25 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 4 hdc in
next st, 3 hdc in

next st, hdc in next 25 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 2 hd in first st, sl st to join

Rnd 4-21: ch 1 to turn, hdc in each stitch, sl st to join

Break off yarn, weave in the end.

Flap: (oh geez.. my notes for this are scribbled lines of numbers, and some of them I had to cross
out when I realized it wasn't working right. I hate having to read my own handwriting!)
Ch 18
Rnd 1: 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook,hdc in next 15 chs, 3 hdc in last ch, start working down the
other side of the chain, hdc in next 15 sts, 1 hdc in last ch, sl st to join

Rnd 2: Ch 1 to turn, 2 hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 3 hdc in
next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, 1 hdc in first st, sl st to join

Rnd 3: Ch 1 to turn, hdc in that stitch, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next
15 sts, 2 hd in next

st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts, 2 hdc in
next st, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hd in next st, sl st to join to first st
Rnd 4: ch 1 to turn, hdc in first st and next 3, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 17 sts, 2 hdc in next st,
hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 17 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts

Rnd 5: ch 1 to turn, hdc in first st, and next 3, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, hdc in next 15 sts, 2
hdc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next 15 sts, 2 hdc in
each of next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sl st to join

Rnd 6: ch 1 to turn- hdc in first st and next 3, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, 1
hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 17 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st,2 hdc in next
st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in
next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 had in next st, hdc in next 17 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2
hdc in next st,1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st,hdc in last 3 sts, sl st to join

Rnd 7:ch 1 to turn, hdc in first st and next 4, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st,1
hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 21 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next
st,1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in
next st,1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 21 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc
in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st,hdc in next 4 st, sl st to join

Rnd 8: ch 1 to turn, hdc in first st and next 6, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st,1
hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 23 sts,2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next
st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st,hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in
next st,1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 23 sts,2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc
in next st,1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts, sl st to join

Rnd 9: ch 1 to turn, sc in first stitch, sc in next st, ch 2 skip 2 st, *sc in next 2 st, ch 2 skip two st,*
repeat ** around, sl st to join last chain 2 to first sc

Ruffle:
Rnd 10: ch 3 (counts as first st), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join
Rnd 11: Chain 3 (counts as first st), dc in same st, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st*
repeat ** around. Join with sl st
Rnd 12: Repeat rnd 11

I started the cord in the middle to keep the ends neat, it's easier to hide woven in yarn ends in the
back of the purse with

the ruffles then at the ends of the ties.

Ch 101, skip last chain, sl st up the chain, then chain 101, and sl st back up the other side of the
chain. Break off and

weave in ends.

Weave the cord through the chain 2 spaces before the ruffle and tie in a bow in the front.
Now you've got the purse, and the ruffly oval.

(the rectangle is supposed to be the purse. Imagine it's a purse)

Fold the ruffly oval in half lengthwise, and pin the back of the ruffle in place on the purse, then
stitch it down with matching yarn to the back of the purse. The blue shows where I stitched it.

Handles: Well, this is really sort of up to taste and supplies on hand. I used a store bought handle
with rings on the ends, and crocheted two little strips and sewed them to the sides to hold the
handle I bought in place.
I'd have preferred a handle I could remove easily for washing, and actually had one off an old
purse I planned to use, but I misplaced it last time I was looking for something in my big bin of
crafty stuff.

Total cost: Well, I wound up using 3 balls of yarn, which I bought on sale for 1.00, and the
handles were 4.99 for 2, and I only used one of them, so $5.50.

And it's done. I'm SOO sick of looking at it right now. I'll have to look at it fresh tomorrow and see
what I think. I stuffed the purse lightly for the picture. I had to. It was very strange looking flat.
Since I put up my little drawings of the basic shape of the pieces, you can see, there are
variations possible to make it more uniquely your own. You could use a pretty ruffled lace edging
instead of just a ruffle, do it in single crochet instead of the half doubles I did it in, all sort of
things. Heck, you could sew one. Which would be soo much quicker.
-Shala
Tags: crochet, designer, patterns, purse

B.TOTE PURSE
Crochet Pattern

The following pattern is my original design and can only be copied or printed for personal use.

MATERIALS:

Hook: Size I (I use Boye brand)

Yarn: Approximately 7 ounces of 4ply worsted weight yarn. Red Heart yarn works really well.

Plastic Canvas Needle

Stitches used: ch, sl st, rev sc, dc.

Difficulty: MEDIUM

Size: Approximately 9" tall and about 10" wide excluding the handle.

NOTE: Entire pattern is worked holding two strands of yarn.

RND 1: Ch 25, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across placing 5 hdc in the end ch. Hdc in
each of the rem lps of the beg ch. Then place 3 hdc in the end ch (this makes 5 in the ch on this
end). Join with sl st to the first hdc on this rnd. Ch 2, DO NOT TURN.

RND 2: Hdc in each hdc (3 hdc in the center hdc in each end). Join with sl st. Ch 2, turn.

RND 3: Working in bl only, hdc in each hdc. Join with sl st in top of beg ch 2. Ch 2, turn.

RND 4-14: Hdc in each hdc. Join with sl st in top of beg ch 2. Ch 2, turn.

RND 15: Hdc in each hdc. Join with sl st in top of beg ch 2. Ch 3, turn.

RND 16-17: Dc in hdc to the right of the beg ch 3, sk next hdc to the left of the beg ch 3, dc in
next hdc, back up and dc in hdc just skipped. *Sk next unworked hdc, dc in next hdc, back up and
dc in hdc just skipped (dc cross stitch made)* Repeat from * to * around. Ch 3, turn.

RND 18: Hdc in each dc around, Join with sl st, ch 1. DO NOT TURN.
RND 19: Working clockwise, rev sc around.

Fasten off.

HANDLE: (make 2)

RND 1: Ch 50, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, place 5 hdc in the end ch.

Working down opposite side, hdc in each rem lp of ch and place 3 more hdc in the end ch (this
should make 5 hdc in this end also). Join with a sl st. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN.

ROW 2: Going clockwise, rev sc in each st around.

Fasten off.

Sew to Tote Purse using the Illustration as a guide for placement.

C.Topaz Purse

Silk Serica is a 3-ply, twisted filament silk with a magnificent, rich sheen. It is soft and luxurious to
the touch, and it makes an excellent crochet thread for creating elegant accents and heirloom
jewelry.

Materials needed:

about 100m of Silk Serica — we used color 2013 Light Gold

*

steel crochet hook size 4

*

small, coil-less safety pin (regular safety pins will snag silk thread)
*

optional: 80 beads to match or complement thread color

*

fabrics: lining — 12-inch square of matching satin; interlining — 12-inch square of soft lining
fabric
*

one tapestry needle size 22 or size to fit through beads and thread

Instructions

Stitch gauge: 8 sc (across top opening of bag) = 1 inch

Ch 12, form into a ring with 1 sl st into first ch.

ROW 1: Ch 3, 35 dc in ring. End with 1 slip st in top of starting ch. Ch 1, turn.

ROW 2: Working in back lp of ea dc, work 1 sc in ea dc around. (36 sc counting starting ch of 1,
as 1st sc.) Turn.

ROW 3: Working in back lp only, 1 sc in ea sc. End with 1 sl st in 1st sc. Do NOT turn at end of
row.

ROW 4: Ch 3, sk 1st sc, work in both lps of ea sc (1 dc in ea of next 3 sc, ch 3) 9 times, ch 3, 1 sc

in ea of next 7 sc, sk last sc.

ROW 5: (Ch 3, 2 dc in center dc of next 3-dc block, ch 2, 2 dc in same st, [dc shell made] 9 times)
ch 3, 2 sc in ch-3 sp, 1 sc in ea of next 7 sc, 2 sc in last ch-3 sp. (11 sc in solid block of sc at top
of purse + 9 dc shells)

ROW 6: Ch 3, (shell in center of next shell, ch 6.) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next
11 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (15 sc in solid block + 9 shells).

ROW 7: (Ch 3, 9 dc in center of next shell, ch 3, 1 sc in ch-6 lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc
in ea of next 15 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (19 sc + 9-dc shells.)

ROW 8: (Ch 12, 1 sc in 5th dc of ea 9-dc group,) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next
19 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (23 sc + 9 ch-12 lps.)

ROW 9: Ch 3, (12 dc in ea lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 23 sc, 2 sc in last lp.
(27 sc + 9, 12-dc groups.)

ROW 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 dc, (ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 6 dc) 16 times, ch 3, 1 dc in ea of

next 3 dc, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 27 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (31 sc, + 17 groups of 6 dc
+ 3 dc to start and finish round.)

ROW 11: Ch 3, dc-shell in first sp, (dc-shell in next lp, ch 4) ch 3, 2 sc in last lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc
in last lp. (35 sc + 18 shells.)

ROW 12: Ch 3, (shell in center of next lp, ch 5) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc last lp,
ch 3. (39 sc + 18 shells.)

ROW 13: (Ch 3, 2 dc in next shell, ch 4, 1 sc in 1st ch of ch-4 ch, [1 picot made] 4 times in same
shell, 2 dc in same shell, [1 large picot shell made] ch 3, insert hk under both ch lps of last 2
rounds and work 1 sc) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc in last lp. (43 sc + 18 lge picot
shells). End off thread.

Repeat rnds 1-13 to make second half of bag identical to the first.

Beads

Thread 76 beads onto a spool of Silk Serica thread. (Reserve 4 rem beads for drawstring
handles.) Choose a tapestry needle that will pass through both the bead eye while large enough
to thread needle with silk.

Crochet both halves together to include beads as follows:

Hold both halves together, one over the other, wrong sides facing to join. Ch 2, 1 sc in 1st picot of
front half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in 1st picot of back half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in next picot of front half of
bag, bring 1 bead upward on thread holding it firmly against the hk, sl st to hold bead in place, ch
2, 1 sc in next picot of back half of bag. Repeat, around the edges of both halves of bag, placing
a bead after completing ea sc on front half of bag. Make sure that you are always joining the
picots from one half of the bag to the corresponding picot of the second. You should have 4
beads for each picot in ea large picot shell. Rep until both sides are joined together leaving sc
sections separate to form opening at top of bag. Do not cut thread.

Edging:

Work around top opening of bag only using the strand of silk thread still in place:

RND 1: Ch 5, (sk 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp) twice, ch 5, 1 dc in sp between next 4-dc group, ch 5, sk
next 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp, ch 5 (1 dc in next sc and in ea 3rd sc around bag opening,) end with ch
5, 1 dc in last sp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, 1 dc between last 2 dc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of starting ch. (42 lps)

RND 2: Ch 3, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in 1st lp, *ch 3, 1 sc in next lp, ch 3, dc-shell in next lp. Rep from *
around. (21 dc-shells.)

RND 3: Sl st to reach next ch 3 sp in center of shell, ch 3, (counts as 1st dc of 1st shell only,
complete lge picot shell as in row 13, *sk next 2 lps, 1 lge picot shell in ea ch 2-sp of ea shell of
prev rnd. End with 1 sl st in 1st st of 1st shell, end off. Weave in all cut ends.

Draw-string handles: make 4

Using same hk and silk thread, crochet a chain 32-inches long.

Turn, ch 1, sc into ea ch to end. Cut thread leaving 5-inch tails.

Starting at side seam of bag, thread strip in and out of the lowest row of shell spaces on one side
of bag. Withdraw strip at opposite edge of side seam. Pull strip until even at both sides. Turn
purse and repeat for back half of purse.

Staring at side seam of bag, thread 3rd strip in and out of the row of shell spaces just above the
first, taking care to alternate the spaces used with the previous strip. End at side seam. Rep for
4th strip.

Pull strips evenly so they extend beyond the sides of the purse evenly.

Close handles:

Take cut ends of silk on ea strip and using the needle, thread 1 bead onto the end of the silk. Rep
for second strip on same side of bag. Join ends of strips by passing the needle through the eye of
both beads 2 or 3 times as space allows in the bead hole. Cut rem thread ends and weave them
into the sc portion of each strip. Rep for opposite of bag. Bag closes by pulling each dbl handle
on ea side to gather. To open, pull gathers apart. Dry block by pinning purse and handles on
blocking board. Be sure to use rust-proof pins to avoid leaving marks on silk. Cover with a damp
cloth for an hour or so. Remove cloth and allow bag to dry thoroughly.

Lining and interlining:

Choose matching or contrasting color of heavy satin for lining. Cut 2.

Choose a lighter weight in harmonious color for interlining. Cut 2. Do not use heavy satin for both
layers or purse will become stiff and may lose its shape.

Cut fabric using blocked purse as a pattern, allowing at least one-inch of seam allowance around
the edge of the purse. Baste the two pieces of satin together, right sides facing. Turn right outside
and drop lining into purse. Adjust seam allowances as needed to completely fill the purse without
wrinkles. Remove satin lining from purse and stitch around by hand or machine to fit purse. Trim
excess fabric in seam allowance. Turn right side out and press seams well around. Set aside.
Cut interlining using the same pattern shape as you used for the final shape/size of satin lining.
Right sides facing, sew around making seam allowance 1/8” smaller than lining. This allows the
weight of the contents of the bag to be borne by the interlining rather than to stretch the lace
itself. Do not turn interlining inside out. Instead, drop it into the lining so seam allowances of
interlining lie against the wrong side of lining. Use your hand to make sure both layers are even
throughout.

Last, turn the seam allowances of both lining and interlining to fit the last row of the sc crocheted
portion of the bag. Manipulate so that both seam allowances face each other, leaving neat folds
of each fabric layer at top. Pin with long silk pins around the opening of bag. Ease as needed to
avoid tucks as lining is just a bit larger than interlining. When both layers are smooth and pinned
around the bag’s opening, using matching silk thread and tiny whipped stitches, attach both fabric
layers as one around the crochet portion of bag. Make sure not to catch the handle strips into
your stitching otherwise the draw-strings will not be able to be pulled together to open or close.
They must slide easily through the spaces of the lace.

D.Textured Purse

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Purse measures approximately 12"/30.5 cm wide (at widest point) x 9"/23 cm high x 5"/12.5 cm
deep (at deepest point)

MATERIALS

Caron International's Simply Soft Heather

(100% acrylic; 5 oz/141.8 g, 250 yds/228 m skein):

#9505 Plum Heather (A), 10 oz

Caron International's Simply Soft

(100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein):

#9742 Grey Heather (B), 12 oz

#9738 Violet (C), 6 oz

One crochet hook size US I-9 (5.5 mm), or size to obtain gauge

1 large button (for front closure)

4 D-rings—3/4"/19 mm diameter (for bag straps and handles)

Craft felt—1/2 yd/0.5 m (for lining)

Sewing needle and matching thread

Yarn needle

GAUGE
In pattern, holding 2 strands of yarn together and using I-9 (5.5 mm) hook, 16 sts and 17 rows =
4"/10 cm.

STITCHES USED

Chain (ch)

Single crochet (sc)

Slip stitch (slip st)

SPECIAL TERMS

FPdc: Front-post double crochet: (RS)Yarn over, insert hook from right-hand side of stitch to WS
of piece, return to RS at left-hand side of stitch indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop, complete
as double crochet. In this project, FPdc are worked in stitches 2 rows below current row, skip the
corresponding stitch in the current row.

sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together – Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (2
loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw
through all 3 loops on hook.

NOTES

1. Bag is worked holding 2 strands of yarn together throughout.

2.To change color, work last stitch of old color to last yarn over, yarn over with new color to
complete the stitch. Carry colors not in use loosely along edge of work.

BODY (front and back)

Holding 2 strands of A together, chain 37.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—36 sc.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across; change to 2 strands of B in last st, turn.

Row 3: With B, ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc in next sc 2 rows below (in Row 1), *sc in next 2 sts, FPdc
in next sc 2 rows below; repeat from * to last st, sc in last st, turn—24 sc and 12 FPdc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across; change to 2 strands of A in last st, turn.

Row 5: With A, repeat Rows 3.

Row 6 (increase row): Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st; change to 2
strands of B in last st, turn—38 sc.

Row 7: With B, ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, FPdc in next st 2 rows below, *sc in next 2 sts, FPdc in next
st 2 rows below; repeat from * to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, turn—26 sc and 12 FPdc.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across; change to 2 strands of A in last st, turn.

Rows 9–13: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, repeat Rows 7 and 8 twice, then
repeat Row 7 once more.

Row 14 (increase row): With A, repeat Row 6; change to 2 strands of B in last st—40 sc.

Row 15: With B, ch 1, FPdc in first st 2 rows below, *sc in next 2 sts, FPdc in next st; repeat from
* to last 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts; work FPdc in last st 2 rows below until only 2 loops remain on
hook, insert hook in last st of Row 14, yarn over and draw through st and loops on hook to anchor
last FPdc to end of row, turn.

Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each st across; change to 2 strands of A in last st, turn.

Rows 17–21: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, repeat Rows 15 and 16 twice, then
repeat Row 15 once more.

Row 22 (increase row): With A, repeat Row 6; change to 2 strands of B in last st—42 sc.

Rows 23–57: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, repeat Rows 3 and 4 seventeen
times, then repeat Row 3 once more.

Row 58 (decrease row): With A, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each remaining st to last 2 sts, sc2tog;
change to 2 strands of B in last st, turn—40 sc.

Rows 59–65: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, repeat Rows 15 and 16 three
times, then repeat Row 15 once more.

Row 66: With A, repeat Row 58; change to 2 strands of B in last st—38 sc.

Row 67–73: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, repeat Rows 7 and 8 three times,
then repeat Row 7 once more.

Row 74: With A, repeat Row 58; change to 2 strands of B in last st—36 sc.

Rows 75–82: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, repeat Rows 3 and 4 four times.

Fasten off.

GUSSET (make 2)

Holding 2 strands of A together, chain 9.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—8 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across; change to 2 strands of B in last st, turn.

Row 3: With B, ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 4 (increase row): Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st; change to 2
strands of A in last st, turn—10 sc.

Rows 5–9: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 10 (increase row): With A, repeat Row 4; change to 2 strands of B in last st, turn—12 sc.
Rows 11–13: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 14 (increase row): With A, repeat Row 4; change to 2 strands of B in last st, turn—14 sc.

Rows 15–18: Repeat Rows 11–14—16 sc.

Rows 19–22: Repeat Rows 11–14—18 sc.

Rows 23–29: Continuing to alternate A and B every other row, ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 30 (decrease row): With A, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each remaining st to last 2 sts, sc2tog;
change to 2 strands of B in last st, turn—16 sc.

Row 31: With B, ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 32 (decrease row): With B, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each remaining st to last 2 sts, sc2tog;
change to 2 strands of A in last st, turn—14 sc.

Row 33: With A, ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 34 (decrease row): With A, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each remaining st to last 2 sts, sc2tog;
change to 2 strands of B in last st, turn—12 sc.

Rows 35 and 36: Repeat Rows 31 and 32—10 sc.

Fasten off.

FINISHING

Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.

Lining

Place all bag pieces on felt and trace around the pieces. Cut out the felt pieces, cutting the felt
1/4"/0.5 cm smaller (all the way around) than the purse pieces. Using sewing needle and
matching thread, whipstitch linings to WS of pieces.

Gusset Edging

With RS facing, join 2 strands of C with slip st in top corner of one gusset to work along side
edge.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, working along side edge, sc in end of each row; pivot to work along opposite
side of foundation ch, sc in each ch across; pivot to work along opposite side edge, sc in end of
each row, turn—82 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first 20 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * 3 more times, sc in next 10
sts (along bottom of gusset), **sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog; repeat from ** 3 more times, sc in last 20
sts—74 sc. Fasten off.

Repeat edging around second gusset.

Body Side Edging

With RS facing, join 2 strands of C with slip st in top corner of body to work along one side edge.

Row 1: Ch 1, working along side edge, sc in end of each row, turn—82 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first 20 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * 3 more times, sc in next 10
sts, **sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from ** 3 more times, sc in last 20 sts—74 sc. Fasten off.

Repeat side edging along opposite side edge of body; do not fasten off.

Assembly

With RS facing, hold side edges of body and one gusset together, with top edges even.

Row 1: Inserting hook through back loops of gusset and front loops of body at same time
(working through both thicknesses), sc in each edging st around gusset and edge of body to
opposite upper corner—74 sc. Fasten off.

Repeat to join second gusset to opposite side of body; do not fasten off.

Top Edging and Closure

Round 1: Work sc evenly spaced around top edge of purse, pinching in each gusset (pinch
towards inside of purse); join with slip st in first sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, slip st in each st to center back of purse; make closure at center back, as follows:
ch 12, slip st in 10th ch from hook, sc in last 2 ch, working along opposite side of ch-12, slip st in
base of each sc and in each ch around, slip st in last 2 sc; continuing around top of purse, slip st
in each remaining st around; join with slip st in first st. Fasten off.

Sew large button to top center of front of purse opposite closure.

Handle/Strap (make 4)

Holding 2 strands of C together, chain 92.

Row 1: Working in back loops only, slip st in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch
across, turn—91 slip sts.

Rows 2–4: Working in back loops only, ch 1, slip st in each st across, turn.

Row 5: Pivot to work along ends of rows, ch 1, work 3 sc in ends of rows; ch 1, slip st in each ch
along opposite side of foundation ch.

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Loop both ends of two straps through D-rings (one D-ring per end). Using yarn needle and yarn
tails, sew ends to back of straps. Wrap straps around body of purse, approximately 1"/2.5cm from
each end of purse and with D-rings at top edges of purse. Sew the straps to body of purse using
small whip stitches. Loop ends of remaining two handles through same D-rings, and sew ends to
back of handle. Use photograph as guide for placement of straps.

Weave in any remaining ends.

E.Free Crochet Pattern Suede Eggplant Purse

LION SUEDE EGGPLANT PURSE

MATERIALS:

1 skein Lion Suede in Eggplant and one Lion Suede Print in Mountaintop, H hook or hook to
obtain gauge, small amount of cardboard, needle to take yarn, 5 large snaps, needle and thread.

GAUGE: 3 sc = 1”, 3 rows sc = 1”

FINISHED SIZE: 6” tall X 11-1\2” long

PURSE BODY:
ROW 1: With Suede Print and H hook ch-31, sc 2nd ch from hook, sc ea ch across, ch-1, turn.
(30 sts)

ROW 2-47: Sc ea st across, ch-1, turn.

ROW 48: Sc ea st across, join Eggplant, ch-1, turn, fasten off Print.

ROW 49-51: Sc ea st across, ch-1, turn. End row 51 fasten off.

Turn piece so you will now be working across the foundation ch or bottom of row 1, join Eggplant
in bottom 1st st, ch-1, sc sa st as beg ch-1, sc bottom ea st across, ch-1, turn. (30 sts)

ROW 2-3: Sc ea st across, ch-1, turn. End row 3 fasten off.

LONG EDGE:

ROW 1: With Eggplant and H hook turn piece so you will now be working across long edge, join
end row 51, ch-1, sc sa row as beg ch-1, evenly work sc in end of ea row across, ch-1, turn. (55
sts)

ROW 2-4: Sc ea st across, ch-1, turn. End row 4 fasten off.

Rep on last side of purse body.

SIDE (MAKE FOUR):

RND 1: With Eggplant and H hook ch-9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc next 6 ch, 2 sc last ch, turn
piece so you will now be working across the bottom of the foundation row, sc ea ch across, sl st
top beg sc, ch-1, turn. (16 sts)

RND 2: 2 sc next 2 sts, sc next 5, 2 sc next 3, sc next 5, 2 sc last st, sl st top beg sc, ch-1, turn.
(22 sts)

RND 3: 2 sc next 2 sts, sc next 7, 2 sc next 4, sc next 7, 2 sc last 2 sts, sl st top beg sc, ch-1,
turn. (30 sts)

RND 4: 2 sc next 4 sts, sc next 9, 2 sc next 6, sc next 9, 2 sc last 2 sts, sl st top beg sc, ch-1,
turn. (42 sts)

RND 5: (2 sc next st, sc next st) twice, sc next 11, rep bet () 5 times, sc next 11, rep bet () 3
times, sl st top beg sc, ch-1, turn. (52 sts)

RND 6: Sc ea st around, sl st top beg sc, fasten off.

Using one side as a pattern cut two out of cardboard. With needle and yarn sew two sides tog
inserting cardboard as you sew.

Beg at join on rnd 6 of one finished side and line up end of long edge of purse body. With needle
and yarn beg sewing at this point and 33 sts on side, fasten off. Rep at sa point other side. With
needle and thread sew snaps evenly across opening beg and ending at outer edges.

HANDLE:

ROW 1: with Eggplant and H hook ch-5, sc 2nd ch from hook, sc ea ch across, ch-1, turn. (4 sts)

ROW 2-31: Sc ea st across, ch-1, turn. End row 31 fasten off.

Center strap on top of the purse. With needle and yarn sew last 4 rows ea end of strap to purse
top.
I just love working with Lion Brand suede yarns. I like the look and feel you get from them.
This purse is a bit different from any I have designed before. I was going for a different shape
than what I normally tend toward. It's unique in that it snaps around the sides of the purse and
then across.

F.Satchel

You will need:

approx 180 yards / 160cm of heavy worsted yarn (I used 2 skeins of Savanna by GGH)
1 skein of yarn in a contrasting colour for the straps (I used Vanna's Choice by Lion's Brand)
2 buckles (I bought a couple of dirt cheap cat collars and removed the buckles)
US size K 10.5 hook (6.50mm)
US size I 9 hook (5.50mm)
Yarn needle
.
Abbreviations used (nb. I'm using the American stitch terms):
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet (a search on the 'net shows lots of great tutorials for this easy
stitch - it's the same as a dc, but you put the hook behind the 'post' of the stitch)
sl st = slip stitch
rep = repeat
.
gauge: 30sc = 8" or 20cm
finished bag measures approximately 8" x 2½" x 5½" or 21cm x 6cm x 15cm
.
BAG BASE:
Row 1: (Using the larger size K hook) ch 30
Row 2: ch 1 to turn, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across =30sc
Rows 3: ch 1 to turn, sc in each sc across
Rows 4-10: rep row 3
At the end of row 10 you will work down the side of the piece (ie. along the short side of the
rectangle), and then around the first edge (row 1) and then up the other side:

Turning the corner, sc in last sc of row 10 again (marked ** on picture), then sc in each of the
gaps (marked *) down the edge (9sc). Turn the corner, sc in each of the ch of row 1 (30sc). Turn
the corner, sc up the remaining edge (9sc).
.
BAG SIDES (worked in the round):
Round 1: sc in the back loop (furthest loop from you of the two top loops that make a single
chain) of each sc all the way around = 78sc

Round 2: (switch to smaller size I hook) dc in each sc all the way around = 78dc
Round 3: fpdc, dc in next 28dc, fpdc, dc in next 9dc, fpdc, dc in next 28dc, fpdc, dc in next 9dc
(the fpdc are at each of the corners of the bag)
Rounds 4 - 13: rep round 3
Round 14: fpdc, dc in next 28dc, fpdc, dc in next 9 dc, fpdc, dc in next 28dc, fpdc, dc in nect 8dc,
sl st in last dc
.
BAG FLAP (worked back and forth in rows):
Row 1: ch 3, (continuing along the long edge of the bag) dc in next 29 dc
Row 2: ch 3 for turning chain, dc in next 29 dc
Rows 3 - 11: rep row 2
.
I then did a row of sc down the side of the flap, around the top of the bag and up the other side of
the flap and along the top of the flap. This gives it a nice neat edge, but isn't necessary.
.
In contrasting yarn:
SHOULDER STRAP:
Row 1: ch 200
Row 2: ch 1 to turn, sc in each ch
Rows 3 - 8: rep row 2
Sew strap on outside of bag using the yarn.
.
BUCKLE STRAPS (nb. The inside edge of my buckle was equal to 3 rows of crochet. You may
need fewer or more rows, depending on the width of your buckle) :
Make 2:
Row 1: ch 10
Row 2: ch 1 to turn, sc in each ch
Row 3: ch 1 to turn, sc in each sc.
Sew buckle onto the end of this strap.
.
Make 2:
Row 1: ch 21
Row 2: ch 1 to turn, sc in each ch
Row 3: ch 1 to turn, sc in each sc
.
Sew the 2 straps attached to the buckle onto the front of the bag, then (making sure that they are
in line with the buckles) sew the longer straps onto the flap of the bag (use the picture as a guide)

G.Scallop Purse Pattern

Materials:
6oz worsted weight cotton yarn
h hook
tapestry needle
5" wooden purse handles (not needed for tote option)

Note: Adjustable loop may be replaced with ch 2. Sc would then be made in 2nd ch from hook.

Make adjustable loop.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in loop, pull loop taut (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around (18)
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (24)
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (30)
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (36)
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (42)
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (48)
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (54)
Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (60)
Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (66)
Rnd 12: (sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (72)
Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (78)
Rnd 14: (sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (84)
Rnd 15: (sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (90)
Rnd 16: (sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (96)
Rnd 17: (sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (102)
Rnd 18: (sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next st) around (108)
Rnd 19-21: sc around, join with sl st in next st at end of rnd 21 (108 each rnd)
Rnd 22: ch 1, sc in same stitch. sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts. (sc in next st, sk next
2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts) repeat around. Join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 23: ch 3, 4 dc in same st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts. (5 dc in next st, sk next 2
sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts) repeat around. Join with sl st in top of beg ch 3.
Rnd 24: sl st in next 2 sts. ch 1, sc in same sp, sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts. (sc in
next st, sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts) repeat around. Join with sl st in first sc.
Rnds 25-29: repeat rnds 23 and 24, ending with a repeat of rnd 23
Rnd 30: (sc in next 16 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around (102)
Rnd 31: sc around (102)
Rnd 32: (sc in next 15 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts) around (96)
Rnd 33: sc around (96)
Rnd 34: repeat row 22
Rnd 35-37: repeat rows 23 and 24 ending with a repeat of rnd 23
Rnd 38-39: sc around (96 each rnd)

(***see below for tote option***)

First Handle Flap:

Row 40: ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 20 sts
Row 41-44: ch 1, turn. sc across. End off at end of row 44.

Second Handle Flap:

Repeat rows 40-44 of handle flap for second handle flap, joining in the 28th st from first st of row
40 of first handle. Do not end off at end of row 44.

Finishing Border:
With right side facing out, ch 1 and sc around handle flaps and main part of purse, with 2 sc in the
corner of each handle flap on row 44. End off, weave in all ends.

Finishing assembly:
On each side, place purse handle in between handle flap and purse, with handle flap turned to
the inside of purse as pictured. Sew top edge of handle flap to inside of rnd 38 of purse. Tie
sewing yarn in tight knot to secure and weave in ends. Line and attach closures if desired.

Tote Option:
Rnd 40: sc around. Join with sl st in next st, end off, weave in ends.

Handles:
ch 4.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across.
Row 2-60: ch 1, sc across.
Finishing border: ch 1, sc around with 2 sc in each corner. End off weave in ends.

Assembly:
Place handles evenly on tote, with approximately 20 stitches in between each side of each
handle. Sew into place on the inside of tote.

H.CROCHETED PURSE

MATERIALS

2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted.

(This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes, so I am really not sure how much I used)

Hook - 4.50mm

1 - Button (1" diameter) or a strip of Velcro.

My notes, are in blue.

NOTE: I made this purse in black, but the picture would not come out very well. You couldn't see
the stitches nor where the flap ended. So I changed the settings on my camera and software
program to reverse the color.

Abbreviations used:
st - stitch
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet hdc - half double crochet
beg - beginning
tog - together

Ch 31 to begin
RND 1 - (Note: You will be crocheting down the chain and then you will turn and crochet down the
other side of the chain, through the back loops of the chain stitches. ) 1 sc in third ch from hook, 1
sc in next 26 chs, 4 sc in last ch ( Note: If you find that making 4 sc in the last chain loosens the
chain, you could do 2 sc in the last chain, then pull tail end up towards you, then make 2 sc in the
same ch. This will help tighten it up some.)
Now you crochet up the back side of the chain 1 sc in each back of ch loops, 2 sc in last back of
ch loop, ss to join to the starting ch (the loop before the first sc), ch 1, turn.
RND 2 - 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next 29 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next 29 sc, 2 sc in last st, ss
to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. (66 sc)
RND 3 - 1 sc in each 66 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
RND 4 to 24 - Same as Row 3.
RND 25 - (Flap) ss in first sc, ss in next sc then ch 1 and 1 sc in the same sc, 1 sc in next 30 sc,
ch 1, turn. (31 sc)
RND 26 - 1 sc in next 31 sc, ch 1, turn.
RND 27 to 42 - Same as Row 26.
RND 43 - 1 sc in next 14 sc, ch 3, skip next 3 sc (this is for the button hole. If you are using a
velcro strip instead of a button, do this row the same as Row 26.) 1 sc in next 14 sc, ch 1, turn.
RND 44 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 11 sc, 1 sc in each of next 3 chs, 1 sc in next 11
sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next sc, ch 1, turn. (29 sc)
RND 45 - 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 23 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in last sc, fasten off. (27 sc)

EDGING
Fasten yarn at the bottom of falp where you began on Row 25. With wrong side of flap facing you,
make 1 ss at each end of flap rows, 1 ss in each sc across the last row of the flap, 1 ss at end of
each row of flap, 1 ss in each sc across the front of purse, ss to join to first ss, fasten off.

STRAP
Fasten yarn 2 sts back from where you ended the edging. Ch 130 (or to desired length), ss to join
to the other side of purse in the 2nd ss from the flap (be careful not to get the chain twisted).
Working on the right hand side of the chain, ch 1, 1 hdc in each ch to beg, ss in first ss from flap.
Now you are going to join the hdc row on strap to the starting ch row of strap. 1 ss in each hdc
and corresponding st on starting ch, ss to join in first ss from flap, fasten off.

Sew button or a Velcro strip in place. (I crocheted a cover for the button I used.)

I.Crochet Puff Stitch Purse. Speedy Pattern.

Pattern.
8 ply yarn, any yarn will do. Amount of yarn will be less than 100 gms.
The one I used is 90 % wool
5.00m hook
DC= yo hook, insert hook into st, yo hook, pull through loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, yo
hook, pull through 2 loops again. (Australian/English terms= trbl.)
Special stitches, PUFF st=(sc, 3dc in st)
Back piece.
1. Ch 50, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1 turn
2. 1sc, 3dc in first sc, skip next 3 sc, *1sc, 3 dc in next sc, skip next 3 sc*, repeat from * to *, to
last 4 sc, skip next 3 sc, 1sc in last sc, ch 1 turn.
3. 1sc, 3dc in first sc, skip next 3 dc, *1 sc, 3dc in next sc, skip next 3 dc*, repeat from * to * to
last 4 sts, skip next 3dc, sc in last sc, ch 1 turn.
Repeat row 3, 7 more times.
Begin Flap.
11 and 12. sl st across next 4 st, continue pattern as above, to end, ch 1 turn.
13. repeat row 3, 7 more times, fasten off.
Front Piece.
Work as for back piece to row 10.
To give the front piece a tighter edge, I did a row of rsc, (crab st) along the top.
Making up.
(row 1 of pattern is the right side)
With bag inside out, sew front piece to back piece beginning at side along the bottom and up to
the opposite side.
Optional.
To decorate the flap, I did groups of 3 hdc, evenly around the flap.
Find a nice button or make a bobble to close the flap, you will find the pattern has efficient gaps to
go over a button.
To make a bobble, ch 3, 12 dc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to finish, cut yarn leaving a long tail,
thread tail through all stitches and pull tight. You can also make a smaller bobble by using sc,
starting with 2 ch.
Straps.
I took a strap from an old bag and sewed it to the inside of the bag after I had done a row of sc on
the steel loop. This makes a sturdier attachment.
I may line the bag, using the method in this on line tutorial.
Have fun, this makes up very quickly.

J.Pink & black oblong purse

Materials:
- 2 oz. black ww yarn

- 2 1/2 oz. pink ww yarn

- 2 1/2 oz. pink TLC Baby Amore

- L hook

- purse handles

- 2 pieces 17 holes x 76 holes plastic canvas

Size: 12 1/2" x 8 1/2" x 3"

Note: Do not join rnds, mark 1st st with a stitch marker.

Rnd 1: With 2 strands black ww held together, ch 28, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in next 25 chs,
3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of chs, sc in next 25 chs.

Rnd 2: *2 sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 25 sc. Repeat from * 1 more time.

Rnd 3: *(2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times. Sc in next 25 sc. Repeat from * 1 more time.

Rnd 4: *(2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 3 times. Sc in next 25 sc. Repeat from * 1 more time.

Rnd 5: Working this rnd in back loops, sc in each sc around.

Rnds 6 - 10: Sc in each sc around. At end of Rnd 10, end off black.

Rnd 11: Now working with 1 strand pink ww and 1 strand pink TLC Baby Amore held together,
join with a sc to 1st sc, sc in each sc around.

Rnds 12 - 13: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 14: Hdc in each sc around.

Rnd 15: Sc in each hdc around.

Rnds 16 - 17: Repeat Rnds 12 - 13.

Rnd 18: Repeat Rnd 14.

Rnd 19: Repeat Rnd 15.

Rnds 20 - 21: Repeat Rnds 12 - 13.

Rnd 22: Repeat Rnd 14.

Rnd 23: Repeat Rnd 15.

Rnds 24 - 25: Repeat Rnds 12 - 13.

Rnd 26: Reverse sc in each sc around. Join with a sl st to 1st reverse sc, end off.
Cut the 2 pieces of 17 holes x 76 holes plastic canvas to fit bottom of purse. Match pieces and
sew together. Cover with fabric if desired.

Sew on handles.

K.Lyd’s Purse
Materials and Equipment
Crochet hooks sized J, P
Knit Picks Wool of the Andes (50g/110 yds), 4 balls in color of choice
Magnetic snap
Decorative pin

Gauge: 7 hdc = 2 inches

5 rows = 2 inches

Note: Beginning ch 2 DOES NOT count as 1st hdc.

Directions

Bottom of purse:
Ch 42
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. 40 hdc.
Row2-7: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc. 40 hdc. Do not cut yarn.

Purse:
Round 1: ch 2, hdc in end st of each row (7 hdc), hdc in each st on opposite side of beg ch (40
hdc), hdc in end st of each row (7 hdc), hdc in each st of row 7 of bottom of purse. 94 hdc.
Rounds 2-20: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc. Sl st to top of first hdc to close round. 94 hdc. Cut yarn at
end of round 20.

Flap:
Row 1: Join yarn with hdc in 23rd st of the round. Hdc in next 39 hdc. 40 hdc.
Rows 2-19: Work even in hdc. 40 hdc.
Row 20: Sl st in 1st hdc, skip next hdc, 4 dc in space between next 2 hdc, (skip next 2 hdc, sl st
between next 2 hdc, skip next 2 hdc, 4 hdc in space between next 2 hdc) 9 times. Sl st in top of
last hdc. 10 shells made. Cut yarn and weave in loose ends.
Strap:
Holding 3 strands of yarn together and hook size P, ch 100. Sl st in 2nd st from hook and in each
ch. Cut yarn. Chain more than 100 if you’d like a longer strap.
Felt strap and purse according to your favorite method.

Finishing:
Use scissors to poke a hole 3/4 inch from top of purse on one side. Thread end of strap through
the hole from the outside in. Tie end of strap in an overhand knot inside purse. Repeat this for
attaching strap on opposite side of purse.
Attach magnetic snap to purse. Attach decorative pin to hide back of snap.