From this month we are starting this column on Garment

Garment Construction Construction by world renowned garment technologist Dr

Gordana Colovic of Belgrade (Serbia).
EXECUTIVE PAGES Dr. Gordana Colovic

Constuction And Modelling Garment

Dr. Gordana Colovic
The dynamics of international strategy for the garment industry is accelerating with development of
concepts and the new demands of raid changes in the market. The whole world is seen as a potential
source of production, and simultaneously as a single market of garments. The base of the economic
system is based on the fact that the ultimate success of a positive for those manufacturers whose
products are cheaper and better than the competition. Higher productivity allows an increasing proportion
of the global market. Customers no matter where the garment is produced, because the parameters for
his choice of quality and price.
According to statistic analysis of most common errors in finished garment 75 % originate in construction
preparation of production. CAD system (virtual sewing) gives us a quality production without faults. But
very important is know classic construction preparation. In Europe we have several construction meth-
ods (Germany method, France method and Italy method).
In this column we want to show a classic construction and modelling women's, men's, children's and
baby clothes from Europe. For years Serbia has traditionally cooperate with foreign partners and is one
of the leading manufacturers for the most wanted brands (Gucci, Hugo Boss, Benetton, Tommy Hilfiger,
Zara, Mango, Waal Wear Men, Van Gils, Stefanel, Digel, Dolce & Gabanna, Odermark) and Serbia ex-
ports about 78% of its clothing products (domestic brands).
Constuction And Modelling Skirt
Dimensions according to ISO standard
Waist girth = 74 cm
Hips girth = 98 cm
Description of work :
By default the vertical line of mea-
sure :
Point 1 to Point 2 = waist to hip
= 20 cm to 22 cm
Point 1 to Point 3 = skirt length
= 60 cm
Point 2 to Point 4 = 1/2 waist to hip +
2 cm to 3 cm = 54 cm to 55 cm
Point 5 is the half distance between
Point 2 and Point 4.
From the Point 5 and Point 4 draw
vertical lines down and up and get
Point 7. For forming the side seam
for a 1 cm raised the extra horizon-
tal line of the belt line.
Point 1 to Point 6 = 1/2 waist girth +
1 cm
Point 7 to Point 6 = surplus that is
distributed to the side seams and
dart, as in Figure 1. Figure 1 : Basic skirt construction

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 Dr Gordana Colovic graduated on Depart-
ment of Textile and Mechanical Engineer-
ing, Technical Faculty, B.Sc Textile Tech-
nology, M.Sc. Technical Science and she
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holds a PhD in Industrial management
with thesis: Modelling of Flexible Garment
Manufacturing.
For 23 years she works in The College of
Textile – Design, Technology and Manage-
ment in Belgrade, like a professor for Mod-
elling and construction wear and acces-
sories, Technology of garment manufac-
turing, Organization of manufacturing,
Work study, Management of technology
systems in garment industry and Market-
ing management for garment industry.
She has 4 books and paper works in Dr Gordana Colovic
around 80 publications and symposiums.

Modelling model 1

Sketch sports skirt without belt with decorative tying on the front is shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2 : Sketch sports skirt

When modelling the length of the skirt to expand by 1.5 cm on a side seam of waist line.

On the right front part of the top dart is line cut. On the right front moves dart and shapes lines cut for the
pocket by about 8 cm from the middle of the skirt. The lines cut on the right front are labelled as in Figure
3.

At the back are closed darts with basic constructions skirts and move on side seam, to half the back of
the skirt, which is the line cut the back part of skirt.

To complete skirt on the right front part is added 5cm for fly and for hem and seam 2.5 cm. Mark the
rivets on the front of the tying (Figure 4).

Figure 5 shows completions of the internal belt skirts, fly and pockets.

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EXECUTIVE PAGES

Figure 3 : Modelling model 1

Figure 4 : Completing the front and back part

Figure 5 :Completing the internal belt skirts, fly and pockets

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 Modelling model 2

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Figure 6 : Sketch balloon skirt

Figure 7 ; Modelling skirt

Figure 8 : Completing skirt

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 Interesting design this model
offers great opportunities to
combine.

Front and back part equally ex-

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tend the vertical lines cut.

The front middle of the model-

ling skirt extended to oblique
cutting the seam.

For the entire belt width sewn

strip width of 4 cm, and mod-
elled the excess folded pulling
elastics.

At length skirt is the addition of

4 cm wide, double cut and sewn
to the already folded bottom
edge of the skirt.

The length of the model is 40

cm. Figure 7 shown modelling Figure 9 : Sketch skirt with geometric cut lines
skirt and Figure 8 completing.

Modelling model 3

Figure 10 : Modelling skirt

“ Another way to save a favorite garment that has a

set-in stain is to embroider over it.”
- Trish Brown

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