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https://mothernaturesgoodies.co.

uk/cedarwood-essential-oil-variations/
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/living-in-europe-my-suppliers-of-fragrances-essential-oils-etc.
58479/

Cold Processed Soap Making


7 Janeiro

Comprar:
Bata com manga comprida, Medidores de água (jugs) mais baixos
Lye, Oleos essenciais, Pilhas
Pigmento liquido (menos messy?) Titanium Dioxide frasco video peq p/ aroma

Receita
- Óleo coco max 20% - cleansing
- Óleo rícino max 5% - lathering
- Molde vermelho = 800g.
Se quiser por embeds (corações) calcular menos peso (talvez 600g?)
- Óleo essencial 30% mínimo (25g - 8-11 pipetas).
- Atenção a validade dos óleos e da soda cáustica

Preparacao
- Verificar se as pilhas funcionam (3 objectos). Rodar posição das pilhas do termômetro
- Antes de pesar e juntar os óleos, raspar (soltar) o óleo de coco para a balança não se
desligar a meio e eu perder a contagem do peso
- Manter pano microfibra e esponja dos sabões por perto evitar manchar mais esponjas e
mais panos

Mistura de oleos
- Usar recipiente quadrado da sogra.
- Este recipiente tem que ser grande o suficiente para levar tudo mas baixo para não se
complicar na hora de despejar a água para aqui. Também tem que caber no microondas

Mistura agua/soda caustica


- Soda cáustica verificar se está boa. Pesá-la no copo de yogurte. Despeja-la para o
frasco de vidro (que contém a água) com ajuda do funil para para não entornar
- Soda cáustica leva bastante tempo a arrefecer - levar óleos ao microondas quando a
soda cáustica estiver a pouco mais de 130F
- 123 … temperatura dos óleos e da soda tem que estar entre 120 e 130 fahrenheit. A 10
graus um do outro máx.
- Despejar a água nos óleos e não ao contrário (deixar escorrer pelo cano da varinha
mágica para evitar bubbles)
Processo
- Varinha mágica faz muitas bolhas: bater o recipiente (da sogra) na mesa (antes de estar
no molde e antes de misturar as cores). Veremos bolhinhas de ar a vir ao de cimo
- Tracing: demora mais tempo a alcançar do que penso. Mas quando chega, rapidamente
fica thick. Usar turbo da varinha mágica e fazer intermitente (parar de x em knd).
Aroma
- Cada pipeta leva 4ml
- Não utilizar fragrâncias. Fragrância lavender faz seizing/ricing (começa a solidificar aos
pedaços e a partir) e não se mistura bem - vem ao de cimo.
- Se quiser utilizar fragrância, acho que funciona melhor misturá-la logo no início do
emulsion (antes do trace)
- Usar a pipeta para retirar o óleo essencial do frasco original (quando possível). Muito
provavelmente vai haver derrames se não usar a pipeta. (talvez usar funil)
- Fragrância, pesá-la no copo de comida dos peixes (encontrar frasco de vidro para
substituir).
- Misturar com os óleos antes de se obter trace.

Pigmento
- Calcular a cor considerando que o sabão é amarelo. Rosa fica laranja.
- Utilizar óleo emulsificado (logo no início antes de atingir tracing) para misturar o
pigmento. Se for tarde, o misturador não tem força para misturar o sabão (tem que ser
antes de haver tracing)
- Preparar pigmento nos frascos de corante para comida. Mexer bem para ter a certeza
que todos os grãozinhos de pigmento foram misturados com o sabão

Decoracoes
- Evitar derramar purpurinas no sabão, grandes molhos. (agarrar nelas longe do sabão e
depois sim trazer com os dedos para o pé do sabão e espalhar no topo).
- Não usar pigmento puro para decorar o topo! Vai para todo o lado!
- Fazer bevels e carimbo

Limpar
- Limpar primeiro as tools com guardanapos (antes de lavar)
- Ao lavar não misturar coisas com pigmento das coisas sem pigmento (pigmento vai para
todo o lado)
- Lavar em último as coisas com pigmento
- Cuidado com a varinha do pigmento e com o termômetro. Não por água neles!
Embeds
- Embeds: usar papel vegetal por baixo do sabão e por cima. Alisar com o rolo da massa
ou régua de corte(?)
- Se não conseguir remover do molde: congelar por umas horas e depois fazer pressão
na parte de baixo (como se fosse tirar cubos de gelo)
- Coracoes
2kg = 2 tabuleiros + copo yogurte
Pigmento aprox metade da caixa cor de rosa (aprox 4-5 colheres) + pigmento vermelho
(2 colheres). So cor de rosa estava a deixar sabão cor de laranja. Vermelho foi SOS
Banha de porco estava fora de validade e óleo rícino tb

1kg soda cáustica = 6 barras de sabão + 2 tabuleiros = aprox 8 barras sabão


UDEMY
classicbells.com/soap/soapyStuff.asp
https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/bath-body-supplies.aspx

Equipamento:

● Proteção Olhos
● Luvas de proteção de cozinha/médico
● Avental
● Varinha mágica
● Balança de cozinha
● Termómetro
● Espátulas
● Chopsticks para esculpir (tipo de chineses)
● Copos pequenos
● Moldes
● Toalha para isolar o molde
● Ferramenta de corte
● Colheres medidoras
● Funil
● Varinha para leite
● Pipeta com medidas
● Tea strainer

To get:

● Recipientes tipo jarro para regar


● Isopropyl alcohol em spray bottle
● Coffee grinder
● Squeezy bottles para corantes
Ingredientes:

● Óleos: Olive, Coconut (very cleansing, maybe keep it at 20%), Castor (lathering, not
more than 10%?), Almond
● Butters: Shea, Coconut, Bee wax
● Lye/Sodium Hydroxide
● Exfoliating: Pumice, Sésame, sementes de papoila, loofah
● Decorating: Calendula, rose (petals)
● Coloring: Must be from a cosmetic supplier - Do NOT use food coloring
○ White: Titanium Dioxide
○ Food spices: paprika (2 teaspoons per pound of oils mixed with about 2
teaspoons of oil - just enough to blend it)
● Sodium Lactate:
○ 1 teaspoon para 0.45kg
● Essential Oils (Natural) or Fragrance oils (sintetic)
○ 0.7 - 1 oz para 1L base oils
○ 0.31 para 1Kg base oils
● Sugar: will increase lathering
● Cornstarch (carefull, thickening agent) will help holding the scent. Add 1–3% (on the
total weight of oils) to your essentials oils and butters and add the mixture when you
reach trace.added it to her oils before adding her lye/water mixture. Check how
to add.
i took a tablespoon of my combined oils and added that to my cornstarch and
added my EO/FO and mixed it to a slurry, then added that to my oils before i
add my lye mixture. everything went smooth

RECIPE CALCULATOR
Reddit advices:
Measure soap by weight, not volume.
Red container: 22.5*5.5*10=1237.5cm3 *0.7 = 866g
0% lye discount gives more margin for errors while measuring
Use 5% superfat especially for smaller batches

http://www.soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp good presentation, easier for newbies


https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html indicates danger zones in amount of lye
http://www.thesoapcalculator.com/

Weight of oils: calcular o volume do recipiente em cm3 e multiplicar por 0.7 (g)
No meu caso: CxLxAx0.7 = g

Water amount:
the water content is usually approx. 22% of the total recipe. The amount of water needed
is determined by the amount of lye you need. You would usually use 30% lye and 70%
water or a ratio of 1:23.
http://www.thesoapcalculator.com/ recommends 33-38% of water

Superfat: Usually 5%
means reducing the amount of lye in your recipe which results in a percentage of
the oil being left in your soap (not converted into soap). This will add moisturizing
and emollient to the soap. Not recommended more than 10%
http://curious-soapmaker.com/superfat-vs-lye-discount.html

Water discounting
means using less water so your soap hardens and dries out quicker. 10% is usually
a reasonable water discount to start with. Not recommended more than 15%. Then
minimum ratio is 1:1 in order for the lye to be completely dissolved and to keep the
soap solid.

Fragrance: 0.7-1oz of fragrance to 1lb of oils, or 31g per kg.

Verificar Peso da água


Verificar Peso da soda
ONE COLOR SOAP

1. Entornar a soda na água. Dissolver bem com uma espátula e esperar que
arrefeça
2. Preparar corante (paprica misturada com óleo)
3. Misturar óleos base num recipiente e levá-lo ao microondas
a. Ambas as misturas devem estar a temperaturas entre 115º e 140º F (46º
- 60ºC) Ideal 120-130ºF
b. Deve haver uma diferença de temperatura entre eles de até 10ºF (5.5ºC)
4. Entornar mistura de lye aos óleos com o auxílio da varinha mágica para não criar
bolhas de ar.
5. Usar o blender um pouco e colocar o coloring ANTES de se obter o trace.
Continuar a fazer blending e adicionar os essential oils e sodium lactate quando
atingir um light trace
6. Quando chegar a um thick trace colocar o sabão no molde. Tapar.
MULTIPLE COLOR SOAP

1. Entornar a soda na água. Dissolver bem com uma espátula e esperar que
arrefeça
2. Preparar corante (paprika misturada com óleo)
3. Misturar óleos base num recipiente e levá-lo ao microondas
a. Ambas as misturas devem estar a temperaturas entre 115º e 140º F (46º
- 60ºC) Ideal 120-130ºF
b. Deve haver uma diferença de temperatura entre eles de até 10ºF (5.5ºC)
4. Entornar mistura de lye aos óleos com o auxílio da varinha mágica para não criar
bolhas de ar.
5. Usar o blender um pouco e colocar os óleos essenciais ANTES de se obter o
trace. Blend a bit.
6. Quando atingir thin trace, dividir o sabão em recipientes diferentes - jarras tipo
regador (1 recipiente para cada cor). Adicionar os corantes. Continuar a fazer
blending.
7. Quando chegar a um ???? trace colocar o sabão no molde, esculpir e tapar.
Essential Oils and Fragrance oils
Eocalc.com
Eocalc.com/enter-your-own-blend
0.7 - 1 oz per pound base oils
The amount of essential oil and fragrance oil used in soap should be calculated
based on the base oil amount in your recipe and not the total amount of soap (oils +
lye + water).

37ml --- 800g/1.76lb


0.7oz/20.7ml ------ 450g/1lb
3% de 800g = 24g
Maybe try to always have a base note oil on each batch to help anchor the other scents
● Top notes, which evaporate quickly
● Middle notes, which come on after the top notes
● Base notes, which last the longest

To Anchor: pairing lighter scents with a deeper, earthier, or more complex scent

Fragrance Oils

Lavanda
3% Middle note
blends well with many other essential oils.
Blends with: Patchouli, Basil, Clary Sage, Geranium, Lemon, Rosemary

Essential Oils
Blending combos:
https://www.modernsoapmaking.com/top-ten-essential-oils-for-soapmaking-starter-essential-oil-
blends/
Laranja Amarga
3% Top Note
Citrus scents will disappear after curing.
-Use a folded version, preferably with an anchor such as clay to fix this.
-Cornstarch (carefull, thickening agent) will help fix holding the scent. Add 1–3%
(on the total weight of oils) to your essentials oils and butters and add the mixture when
you reach trace.
Blend with May Chang to 'fix' the scent
Blends with: Geranium, Juniper, Lavender, May Chang, Neroli, Rosewood
Bergamota
3% Top Note
Citrus scents will disappear after curing.
-Use a folded version, preferably with an anchor such as clay to fix this.
-Cornstarch (carefull, thickening agent) will help fix holding the scent. Add
1–3% (on the total weight of oils) to your essentials oils and butters and add the
mixture when you reach trace.
One of the few top note essential oils that can be used on its own in soap
making.
Blends with:Ylang Ylang, Citronella, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Neroli, Palmarosa,
Cinnamon
High chance for allergic reaction, very irritant, usually not recommended
Base note oil, anchor oil
Patchouli
3% Base Note, anchor
A love it or hate it scent.
Though it can be used on its own, Patchouli has broader appeal when it's blended with
other oils. It's earthy and dark and very powerful.
Blends with Clary Sage, Lavender, Geranium, Lemongrass, Neroli
Cedro
3% Base Note, anchor
Always use 3%. Does not stick long.
Warm and woodsy aroma that blends well with floral, spice, and wood oils.
Blends with: Bergamot, Lavender, Frankincense, Juniper, Rose, Rosemary
Ylang ylang
3% Base Note
May be tricky to work with. Scent lasts well in soap.
Called the 'Flower of Flowers', this oil is sweet and tropically floral. Use in blends with
citrus, floral, and woodsy oils
Blends with: Lavender, Patchouli, Grapefruit, Rose, Sandalwood
Pinho (scots pine?)
3% Middle to Top Note
Sharp and herbal, Pine blends with other herbal, woodsy, and citrus oils.
Blends with: Cedarwood, Eucalyptus, Lemongrass, Rosemary, Tea Tree
Salvia (clary sage):
2% Middle to top note
Deeply earthy and slightly floral scent that does better in blends than on its own.
Blends with Cedarwood, Geranium, Lavender, Lime, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Carrier oils properties
Think about the oils and its properties after saponification
http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soap
making-common-soapmaking-oils/
You can never go wrong with a 34/33/33 ratio. That’s 34% olive oil, 33% coconut oil,
and 33%lard/tallow
A higher amount of coconut oil can be drying, so you can increase the superfat

Banha porco 3eur/kg


Manteiga de amendoa 13eur/kg

Manteiga de Karite
Shelf life: 2 years
Feels luxurious and moisturizing on the skin. It helps harden cold process soap and it
can be used up to 15%. We recommend tempering it for the best results

Oleo palma 8eur/kg


Shelf life: 1 year
Helps harden the bars and it creates lather when paired with coconut oil. In cold
process soap, the oil can be used up to 33%. Don’t forget to fully melt and mix the palm
oil before use, that way the fatty acids will distribute evenly.

Oleo girassol 1.4eur/litro


Shelf life: 6 months
Rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E, making it it one of the more cost-effective
oils. It produces a lather that is incredibly conditioning on the skin. It does have a slower
absorption rate, so it can feel slightly oily on the skin in leave-on recipes like balms and
lotions. To help increase the shelf life of this oil, be sure to keep it refrigerated. It can be
used in cold process recipes up to 100%, but we recommend 20% or less.

Azeite 2.7eur/litro
Shelf life: 2 years
Thick oil that moisturizes the skin and creates creamy lather. Olive oil creates softer
bars and takes longer to trace. It can be used up to 100% in cold process.

Oleo amendoim 2.6eur/litro


Shelf life: 1 year
Substitute for olive or canola oil in cold process recipes. It can be used up to 25%.

Oleo coco 10eur/litro


Shelf life: 18 months
Super cleansing and produces large bubbles in cold process. It’s so cleansing that it
can be drying. It can be used up to 33%, but we recommend using it around 15-20% if
you have sensitive or dry skin.

Oleo abacate 10eur/litro


Shelf life: 1 year
Makes a soft bar of soap and is generally used at 20% or less in cold process recipes.
It’s rich in vitamins A, B, D, and E. The high levels of fatty acids make it great for lotion,
body butter, and conditioner as well.

Oleo ricinio 12eur/litro


Shelf life: 2 years
Draws moisture to the skin and creates amazing lather in soap. We recommend using it
at 2-5%. You can use it up to 25%, although more than 10% can make the bars soft and
sticky.

Oleo amendoas doces 19eur/litro


Shelf life: 1 year
Full of fatty acids and it has a lightweight and moisturizing consistency. You’ll love the
way it feels in DIY soap, lotion, and scrub. It can be used up to 20% in cold process.
YOGA WITH ME SOAPS: RED CONTAINER
MANDAMENTOS

Red container total weight of oils: 800g

Coconut oil: nao passar dos 20% (160g) - muito solúvel em água, sabao acaba rapido
0.8eur/batch

Lard: comprar 2 embalagens continente x 450g = 900g = 2.8eur divir igualmente por 3 batches.
(cada batch tera 37.5%(300g)).
0.933eur/batch

Fragrance: 24g (+- 32ml - 8xPipetas)

------------------------------
Maybe try:
Soap wont reach trace:
Reason: Especially for palm free soaps, or recipes that are high in olive
oil, you don’t need the full amount of water given on a standard lye
calculator.

Solution: If using SoapCalc or Soapee lye calculators, change the water


as percent of oils number from the default 38%, down to 33 to 35%. (I
often go even lower, to around 28% for some recipes.)

Solution: Check the recipe with a lye calculator and see what the
recommended water amount is. For palm-free soaps, high olive oil
soaps, and silicone molds, it’s often helpful to reduce the water from the
default 38% “Water as % of Oils” given in lye calculators to something
lower like 30 to 33%, but if you have a swirl or intricate design in mind,
you should consider using the full water amount, or perhaps 35%.

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