More New s, Quotes, Companies, Videos SEARCH

Monday, May 16, 2011 As of 12:00 AM

ENVIRONMENT
Europe Edition Home Today's Paper Video Blogs Journal Community Mobile Tablet Log In

World Europe U.K. U.S. Business Markets Market Data Tech Life & Style Opinion

Europe Asia Earnings Economy Health Law Autos Managem ent More Industries

1 of 12 2 of 12 3 of 12
TOP STORIES IN
BP's Arctic Pact Feds Sink Nasdaq's H-P Chief Warns of Cash-Rich
Business With Rosneft Bid to Buy Big 'Tough Quarter' Sells First
Lapses Board

MAY 16, 2011

Sunshine and Vine

Rising temperatures across the winemaking regions of the world are having a profound
impact on taste and quality

Article Comments MORE IN BUSINESS »

Email Print Save This Like 21 + More Text

By WIL L IAM L YONS

Across the world viticulturalists are being forced to adapt climate change. In some cases the
shifting weather patterns, combined with higher incidents of extreme events, are contributing to
a change in taste, style and character of the wine. While this can be bad news for some wine
regions, it can be good for others. Take France in 2009, where the weather conspired to produce
wines, across the country, of exceptional quality.

In the faculty of oenology at Bordeaux's

Journal Report
Institute of Vineyard and Wine Sciences the
Read the complete Environment report. vintage report showed that the growing
season met almost perfectly all the
conditions for a great Bordeaux vintage. Some vignerons talked about it as a year without
comparison, others of how in 2009 they had made the best wine in their lifetimes. In Burgundy,
the red wines were exceptionally ripe, forward and low in tannin. In Beaujolais, people talked of
the most outstanding vintage for 50 years. Master of Wine, Jasper Morris, described Beaujolais
2009 as luscious, perhaps even as good as the legendary 1959. In Germany, there was
widespread euphoria over the quality of the grapes harvested. Critics were united in their praise.
In the northern hemisphere, 2009 had been an exceptional year.

Crazy Weather
Then came 2010. A year that Bill Blatch, author of the annual Bordeaux vintage report,
described as one where globally the "weather went crazy". Gregory V. Jones, from the
department of environmental studies at Southern Oregon University in the U.S., says that
globally 2010 was the warmest year on record for the northern hemisphere and the sixth
warmest year on record for the southern hemisphere. In March, he told delegates at the third
world conference on climate change and wine in Marbella, Spain: "In 2010, Eastern Australia
saw the prolonged 10 year drought broken but it has ushered in one of the wettest years,
bringing floods and heavy disease pressure. Meanwhile, Western Australia has experienced one
of the hottest and driest summers on record."

In Europe, wine regions experienced record-

breaking cold weather in December and
January, followed by record-breaking heat
during June and July, Prof. Jones told the
conference. Furthermore, in October 2009,
the western U.S. experienced one of the
earliest freezes on record when fruit was still
on the vine. This was followed by one of the
warmest winters on record, followed by one of
the coolest springs in 60 years. The picture,
Prof. Jones told delegates, is very variable.
"Model updates show that by 2050
[temperature] in wine regions will have risen
globally by between 1 degree Celsius and 5
degrees Celsius with the best estimate at 1.5
degrees Celsius to 2.5 degrees Celsius." It is
a view echoed by consultant oenologist Available to WSJ.com Subscribers
Riccardo Cotarella of the ¬University of
Viterbo, who quotes data from the
Association Viticole Champenoise General
 Convention, which shows that the
temperature average for the period April to
September recorded in Reims and Epernay in
France has risen from 14.5 degrees Celsius
in 1980-1989 to 15.8 degrees Celsius in
2000-2001.
Israelis Fight Off Banks Woo Funds
He says that since 1990 there have been Protesters at Borders With Private Peeks
profound changes in the climate with an
increase in extreme events such as heavy
rains, flooding, strong winds, heat waves and
droughts. Speak to winemakers and the
picture is more cautious. Some argue that
vintages have always changed, the weather is
cyclical and wine styles have historically
been forced to adapt. "I have no idea whether
Quake Throws Scandal in China
it (climate change) is real or not," says
AutoNation Into a Felt on Wall Street
Hélène Garcin, winemaker at Bordeaux's
Spin
Clos L'Eglise estate. "We've had some hot
years, we've had some cold years, we've had Video
View Full Image years with very high humidity. I think it has
Photo illustration: Abi Hardwick always been like that." Whether the change
in climate is part of a long term weather cycle
or manmade is still open to debate. Prof. Jones himself admits that the narrow climate zones for
growing wine grapes "are especially prone to variations in climate and long-term climate
change". But what is clear is that wine regions in the northern and southern hemisphere are Eu r ov iew: U.K. A si a T oda y - Pl a n kin g Cra ze
In fla t ion Ju m ps Ja pa n ' s Ut ili t y Kills A u st r a li a n
experiencing a change in the weather and the style and character of wines are being affected. 1:00 Sect or i n Flu x 2:05
2:02
"I don't argue any longer," says Richard Grünewald, winemaker at Weingut Grünewald & Schnell
in Germany's Rheinhessen region, who says that climate change is a major concern for his
business. "We have data from the federal state institute (Dienstleistungszentrum Ländlicher
More in Business
Raum) that have records going back to the 1960s which show that the average temperature has BP's A rctic Pact With Ro sneft Lapses
risen and blooming is occurring earlier." Mr.Grünewald says that climate change has affected Feds Sink Nasdaq's Bid to Buy Big Board
the ripening profile of the grapes and has speeded up the growing season, which in turn has
H-P Chief Warns of 'Tough Quarter'
altered the style and character of his wine. His wines now have more flavor, less acidity, more
density, sugar and alcohol. He believes that in the short-term his region has profited because Cash-Rich Google Sells First Bo nds
the growing season has expanded and the threat of frost has diminished. "We do not have the At UBS, Complaints and Ex its
very cold temperatures during the vegetation period which can cause damage to the vineyards.
For many years we wanted grapes that would ripen as early as possible, but now we are
planting grapes that ripen a bit later. We are famous here in Germany for Riesling. It is a cool Most Popular In Europe
climate grape and the plant profits from warm days but we also need cool evenings. We fear that Read Emailed Video Commented Searches
if the temperature continues to increase it is no longer a cool climate region and perhaps in 50
years Riesling could be difficult to grow," Mr. Grünewald says.
1. IMF Chief Denied Bail in Sex Assault Case
If the cool climate regions of Germany and Southern England are benefiting in the short-term,
2. A s U.S. Hits Debt Limit, Deal Is Far Off
other regions in the southern hemisphere like California and parts of Australia are experiencing
challenges such as water scarcity, an increase in temperature and the increase of extreme 3. Co res Damaged at Three Reactors
weather events, most notably flooding and bush fires. Prof. Gregory says that it only takes a 1
degree Celsius increase in temperature to affect substantially the ripening of certain varieties. If 4. Scandal in China Felt on Wall Street
the grape is planted in a warmer region this could result in some varieties becoming unviable.
5. Judge Jails IMF Chief in Sex ual-A ssault Case
The possible consequences of climate change on viticulture include early harvests, fall in values
of total acidity and an increase in sugar content, which in turn means a rise in alcohol levels. Most Read Articles Feed

Adapt and Flourish

The solution lies in flexibility. Mr. Cotarella suggests there are a number of winemaking
practices, such as temperature controlled fermentation and rapid delivery of grapes to the Latest Headlines
winery, which can help preserve the aromas and flavor compounds of the varieties. Another U.S. Balks at Pakistani Bills
option is to plant different grape varieties that can handle the heat or, in the case of Southern
Judge Jails IMF Chief in Sex ual-Assault Case
France or Spain, to plant at an altitude where the temperature is significantly cooler. "In 2004 we
U.S. A cts to Keep From Going Ov er Debt Limit
started to plant Cabernet Sauvignon," says Mr.Grünewald. "My father told me: 'Hey son it won't
work,' because his experience told him that that grape needed a longer ripening period, but Loughner's Mental Competence Doubted
nowadays it works. We have also started to plant Chardonnay as they are the type of grapes A Liftoff as Giffords Looks On
that like a warm climate." Meanwhile, back in Bordeaux, barrel samples of the 2010 vintage
Robo-Copters Ey e Enemies
have just been shown to the world's critics. It was a year that produced red wines with record
levels of tannin, acidity and alcohol. A year some winemakers described as nature's challenge. Trade Pacts Tied to Worker A id
Bernanke Backs R&D Spending
Pollution Rule Delay ed Amid Cost Complaints
Tornado Loss Estimate Hits $6 Billion

More Headlines
Mr. Lyons is the wine correspondent for The Wall Street Journal Europe. He can be reached at
william.lyons@wsj.com.

MORE IN BUSINESS

Email Printer Friendly Order Reprints

Share:

Send 21
people

Sprint™ Official Site

What Will You Do First With EVO, The First 4G Phone? Available Now!
www.Sprint.com/Firsts

Market Crash 5/31/11?

Technical indicators suggest market collapse may begin by May 31st
www.stealthstocksonline.com

Hot Penny Stock Picks

Electrifying Stock Pick Accuracy. Only 5 Free Spots Left. Sign Up Now!
www.PerfectPennyStocks.com

Invest In Gold: Free Kit

Learn How to Invest In Gold. Get Started with Free Investors Kit Now!
Goldline.com/Gold

Add a Comment JOURNAL COMMUNITY

We w elcome your thoughtful comments. Please comply w ith our Com m unity
rules. All comments w ill display your real name.

Want to participate in the discussion?

REGISTER FOR FREE

Or log in or become a subscriber now for complete Journal access.

 Track replies to my comment




 Go to Comments tab

Share articles and post your comments

Login with Facebook
on Facebook What's this?
Related and Recommended Elsewhere on the Web
Content from Sponsors What's This?

IVILLAGE.COM
Charlie Sheen Wants
$100 Million Lawsuit
T ried in Public
BARNESANDNOBLE.COM
T he Forgotten
Actress Accepts Joy of Researching Founding Father
Phone-Hacking Health Benefits of Sex
IVILLAGE.COM
Settlement
Even Mild Stress Can
Lead to Disability ,
Batista Expects to Be World's Richest Person
Study Says
Monaco Looks for Own Wedding Boost BARNESANDNOBLE.COM
T he Ancient Guide to
Craft Beer Cries Foul Modern Life
Iceland 'Better off Without EU' SIGNONSANDIEGO.COM
Denzel Washington
The Euro Zone Has Little to Smile About filming causes stir in
WSJ BLOGS
Cape T own
Lost in T ranslation: Linguistic Nuance Sank the BARNESANDNOBLE.COM
Euro Does the Noise in My
MARKETWATCH.COM
Head Bother You?
Jeff Reeves: 3 Dow stocks that are in a slow death BARNESANDNOBLE.COM
spiral A Day in the Life of a
Smiling Woman
Netflix Faces Rising Costs

Editors' Picks

Tertia ry Education Troops in Midea st Face Robo-Copt ers Ey e TV Smiles Kindly on Seven Sins, Both Deadly
Booms In Iraqi Kurdist an Breat hing Ills Enemies Comedies and Dull

BACK TO TOP

WSJ.com Account: About: WSJ.com: Tools & Formats

My Account New s Licensing Site Map Today's Paper Digital Network
Subscriber Billing Info Reprints Home Video Center WSJ.com
Advertising World Graphics Marketw atch.com
Create an Account: Conferences U.S. Columns
Barrons.com
Register for Free Subscriptions Business Blogs
SmartMoney.com
Subscribe to WSJ.com Buy the New spaper Markets Topics
AllThingsD.com
Sign up for WSJ Professional About Dow Jones Market Data Guides
FINS: Finance, IT jobs, Sales jobs
Privacy Policy - Updated Tech Alerts
Help & Information Center: Subscriber Agreement & Personal Finance New sletters BigCharts.com
Help Terms of Use - Updated Life & Style Mobile Virtual Stock Exchange
Customer Service Copyright Policy Opinion Tablet Edition WSJ Radio
Contact Us Jobs at WSJ.com Autos Podcasts WSJ U.S. Edition
Global Support Future Leadership Program Careers RSS Feeds WSJ Asia Edition
New on WSJ.com Real Estate Journal Community WSJ Europe Edition
Take a Tour Small Business WSJ on Tw itter
WSJ India Page
Print Subscriber Services Corrections WSJ on Facebook
SafeHouse - Send Us WSJ on Foursquare Foreign Language Editions:
Information My Journal WSJ Chinese
Portfolio WSJ Japanese
 WSJ Digital Dow nloads WSJ Portuguese
WSJ Spanish

Copyright ©2011 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved