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Reactive dyes contain a reactive group that forms a chemical bond with cotton fiber under alkaline conditions.
Reactive dyes give bright, fast colors, and account for over 70% of the dyes used for cotton. However, large
quantities of salt are needed to cause the dye to move from the dye bath to the fiber, and the exhaustion and fixation
rates for reactive dyes (the percentage of the dye that moves from the dye bath onto the fiber and the percentage that
bonds permanently to the fiber) are relatively low. For conventional reactive dyes, the fixation rate is often less than
80%, resulting in waste of dye, and removing the unfixed dye requires extensive rinsing and washing with heated
water.
Dye suppliers are now offering improved dyes that enable much higher exhaustion and fixation rates while requiring
less than half the salt needed with standard reactive dyes. These high-fixation dyes usually incorporate two different
reactive groups within the molecular structure of the dye. Much progress has been made in commercializing higher-
fixation reactive dyes for dyeing yarns, wovens, knits, and garments. Dome mills have been able to boost their
average fixation rates from below 70% to over 85%, and fixation rates of over 90% have been reported. However,
these higher-value dyes often are more expensive than conventional dyes. Also, because these dyes have higher
affinity for fiber than do conventional dyes, they can be more difficult to apply uniformly, and more water may be
required for removal of unfixed dye. As mills gain experience with these new dyes and develop confidence that they
deliver savings in WEC reduction and mill cost, their use should increase significantly.
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Fig. 3 SEM images of cotton fibres: auntreated, b plasma treated, c cationised and d plasma treated and cationised c
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