Daemon Bikes 2-Stroke Motor Installation Guide

By Tim Carlielle-Shaw Copyright 2010

Step 1: Choosing a Motor Kit

The first step towards having your own Daemon Bikesʼ motorized bike is to choose a kit
from the Daemon Bike Website. Some important things to consider are legality, price
and your mechanical aptitude.

The basic kit is the 49cc 2-stroke motor, which is standard from almost all motorized
bike stores. The differences to the Daemon Bike 49cc kits lie inside of the engine.
These kits have higher quality internal parts (bearings, engine pins, ect.) which are
rated for close to 27,000 rpm, where other lower quality 49cc kits are often only rated for
6000 rpm. One of the reasons many people choose to purchase a 49cc kit over higher
powered motors is legality. In most places, 49cc motors are under the legal limit for a
motorized bike. Keep in mind, however, it is very difficult to tell the difference between a
49cc and an 80cc engine and in most cases an 80cc motor shouldnʼt be an issue.

The next step up from the 49cc motor kit is the

80cc kit. Although marketed as an 80cc, the true
engine size is measured at 70cc. Other motors
marketed as 80cc are usually only 66cc. These
motors are more powerful than the 49cc, and are
the most common kits bought. A well broken in
motor can easily reach speeds of over 50 kmh.
(31mph) This is fast enough to keep up to city
traffic, and in areas with speed bumps or slower
traffic, these 80cc kits are perfect, as it is easy to
overtake cars and rapidly arrive at your
destination. Like the 49cc kits, these motors
have high-grade internal pins and bearings,
making them last longer than many cheaper
motor kits. The 80cc kits come in 3 different
colors: chrome, black and silver. Chrome kits
usually are slightly better made and therefore
easier to install than the other kits.

For your best biking experience, there is also the

4 stroke 49cc motor. These motors have several
features that makes them better than the
2-stroke motors. The first is that 4-stroke motors
are easier to use and require less maintenance,
while having a higher top speed than the
2-strokes. The second advantage is that these
motors do not require oil and gas to be mixed,
which means you can fill them up directly from
the pump. Another feature of these motors is
that the engine burns less oil, meaning less
pollution and smog, and a cleaner tomorrow.
Step 2: Choosing a Bike

When choosing a bike for your motor, there

are several things to consider.

All bikes are different. These motors are

made for V-frame bikes with 26” wheels, and
will almost always fit any 26” V-frame bike.
Beach-cruiser style frames can also be used
with much success, however it is important to
make sure the motor will fit before buying the
bike. Accessories on the frame of the bike,
such as water-bottle holders, can get in the
way of the installation, and the back wheel of
the bike cannot have disk breaks.

When shopping for a bike, it is important to think about where you will primarily ride your
motorized bike. If you think it will be used mostly on gravel, grass and trails, it is
advisable to select a bike with grippy tires, front suspension and a stronger frame. If
your primary use of a motorized bike will be to run errands in a town or city, a road bike
will give you the most satisfaction. When you find a bike you like, it is a good idea to
check if the motor will fit. Bring the engine to the store selling the bike, and ask a sales
representative if it would be okay to test fit the motor. Also bring some cloth to place
around the mounts of the motor to avoid scratching the bike frame up.

Step 3: Pre - Installation

To properly prepare for the installation

of your motor, it is important to have a
place to build your bike where your
work will be uninterrupted. Installation
can easily be done in a day by a
backyard mechanic, however avoid

rushing this project. If possible work on it for

shorter periods of time over several weeks to
perform a quality installation. For many people
this is far from a rainy day project, however,
donʼt give up as this can be a very fun and
rewarding project, and the finished product
makes the hard work more than worth the effort.
When your kit arrives in mail, donʼt go wild ripping it apart and spreading the contents
through out your house. Open the box and carefully remove itʼs contents. Lay out the
parts, and make sure that everything is there and nothing is broken or damaged. A list of
parts for the kit can be found on the Daemon Bikes website. If you believe that an item
is damaged or missing, take a picture of the kit contents and packaging and send a
message to Daemon Bikes customer service using the Contact Us forum on their
website. If possible, use a bike stand or other means to support your bike through the
installation process. This makes the installation much easier and more enjoyable.

Step 4: Installation - The Engine

To attach the engine to the frame of the

bike, begin by removing any water
bottle fixtures or other accessories that
may get in the way of the engine.
Remove the mounting hardware from
the bolts coming out of the engine.
Place the engine on the frame, and
reinstall the mounting hardware. First
the clamps, then the washers, the split
ring washers and finally the nuts. Use a
10 mm wrench to tighten the nuts.

It is important to make sure the nuts

are as tight as possible. Spin the
cranks to make sure the pedals do not
rub against the motor. If they do,
loosen the nuts closest to the crank
that rubs and tighten the nuts on the
other side. It might take a bit of trial
and error before the motor is centered
properly. If the motor doesnʼt fit on the
frame, or if it is too close to the cranks
or the sprocket, you can custom
mount the engine using the included
c-clamp.

Step 5: Installation - The Muffler

Attaching the muffler to the motor is a very simple procedure. You will notice two studs
protruding from the front of the engine. The muffler simply fits on these studs, followed
by the washers, split-ring washers and finally the nuts. Tighten the nuts fairly tight,
however, be careful of over tightening the nuts as this could result in a broken stud.
If a stud does break, a
screw removal tool can
be used to pull out the
broken stud, and a new
one can be bought at
your local hardware
store. Once the muffler is
attached, spin the bikes
cranks. If the pedals
touch the muffler,
remove it and place the
muffler in a wooden vice.
Then bang the muffler
with a rubber mallet to
bend it so the pedals
donʼt rub.

Step 5: Installation - The Sprocket

Attaching the sprocket to the rear wheel can

be one of the most frustrating parts of this
project if not installed correctly. Begin by
removing the rear wheel from your bike and
secure it in a vice. If you donʼt have a vice,
rest it firmly against a wall. The strategy to
installing the rear sprocket is to have a fibre
ring on the inside of the wheel and another
on the outside. The sprocket then gets bolted
through these fibre rings, and then the three
metal plates. When the bolts are tightened,
the fibre rings compress to sandwich the
spokes of the wheel between them.

" " " " " Start by cutting one of the fibre rings between two of
the holes so you can get it on the inside of the wheel.
A sharp packaging knife can be used to do this. Then
place the ring on the hub inside the wheel.

Next put the other fibre ring on the outside of the

wheel, so it matches up to the first fibre ring with the
spokes between. Now, line the sprocket up with the
fibre rings. The concave side of the sprocket should
be facing the spokes. Next place the bolts through
the sprocket, fibre rings and finally the three metal
plates. Put the washers on the bolts first, followed by
the split ring washers and finally the nuts.
Get all the nuts finger tight, then
use a 10 mm wrench to tighten
them up properly. Use an
alternating ʻstar formationʼ to
tighten the nuts. Tighten one nut,
then the nut opposite to it, and
so forth. This will result in a
good, balanced sprocket, which
is optimal for use of this bike.
You might find that attaching the
sprocket will warp the tire

towards the side the sprocket is on,

and on some bikes this can make
the rim difficult to put back on the
bike, as the wheel may rub against
the frame. If this is the case, buy a
spoke wrench from your local sport
store and loosen the spokes on the
side of the sprocket and tighten the
spokes opposite to the sprocket.
Finally, reinstall the rear wheel.

Step 6: Installation - The Chain

The chain that comes with this kit usually needs to be shortened to fit the bike. Begin by
removing the masterlink of the chain. To do this, use a pair of needle nose pliers to snap
the circlip of the masterlink off, then remove the cover and pin plate of the masterlink.
Next, you will need to fit the chain to the bike to determine how much shorter the chain
needs to be. Remove the engine plate on the back left side of the engine. This will
expose a sprocket. Thread the chain through the sprocket, using the included spark
plug tool to turn it. Once the chain is around the sprocket, pull it tight around the rear
sprocket and back to the other end of the chain. Measure how many links need to be
removed.

To cut the chain there are two different approaches. The first and easiest is to use a
chain break tool, available for purchase at most sporting stores. Also, many motorcycle
repair shops have chain break tools, so it would be possible to get the chain broken
there. The second way to break the chain is to use a rotary tool with a grinder and
cutting wheel attachment, a pin punch and a hammer. First grind the chain pin on the
link you want to cut down flat, as in image A. Next do the same to the other side. Both
sides should be flat, as in image B. Now use a cutting disk to cut the chain, as shown in
image B. Finish the process of cutting the chain by using the hammer and punch to
knock the pin out.

Image A Image B

Cutting wheel here

Knock pin out here

Once the chain is broken, rethread it

through the sprocket and reinstall the
masterlink. Begin by pushing the two
pins of the masterlink through the two
ends of the chain. Next, place the cap
onto the masterlink. Finish by
snapping the circlip into place with a
pair of needle nosed pliers. Make sure
the closed end of the circlip is facing
the direction of travel of the chain.
Finish the chain installation by bolting
on the chain tensioner. Make sure the
chain is fairly tight, as it will stretch
slightly throughout the break in period.
Step 7: Installation - The Carburetor

Attaching the carburetor is a fairly easy procedure. Begin with the carb and the bike
cable with no springs on it. Take the carb apart by unscrewing the top. Lay the pieces
out. There should be a spring, a washer, a pin and a metal cylinder. Start by sticking the
pin into the cylinder. Then push the cable through the screw on top, then through the
spring, and finally pull it into the nook in the metal cylinder. Now drop the washer into
the cylinder so it rests flat. Reinstall the cylinder, making sure the notch in the carb lines
up with the slit in the cylinder. Finish up by screwing the top back onto the carb.

This setup gets bolted on to the intake

manifold as shown in the image on the right.
Make sure the carburetor is in this
orientation. Also, make sure there is no
space between the carb and the engine, as
this will allow dust and air into the chamber,
which will reduce the life of your engine. If
the carburetor doesnʼt quite fit onto the
engine, donʼt force it. Use a rotary tool, a file
or even sandpaper to grind down the end of
the intake manifold. Make sure the carb is
securely attached.

Step 8: Installation - The Throttle

To attach the throttle assembly start by taking

apart the twist throttle. You will see that there
is a hook in the twist grip. This hook is made
for other end of the cable that you attached to
the carburetor in the previous step. Once you
thread the cable through the twist throttle
assembly and hook it to the twist grip, you will
notice a small pin in the top of the throttle
assembly. You will need to drill a small hole
 into the handle bars for this hole. To drill
a hole in metal, it is necessary to first
use a hammer and a center punch to
make a small hole in the metal where
you want the hole to be. Also, it makes
the process easier if you use a small
drop of lubricant in the hole. Place a
3/16” drill bit on the hole and firmly
apply pressure. Take care to drill the
hole straight, as a crooked hole can
damage the drill bit. Finish by screwing
the throttle assembly together on the
handle bars, with the pin going into the
hole you just drilled.

Note that to install the throttle you will have to remove any grips from the handle bars.
Also, on bikes with twist grip gear shifting, it might not be possible to have a twist
throttle.If this is the situation, an alternative to using a twist throttle is to use a break
lever for the throttle.

Step 9: Installation - The Electronics

The electronics are one of the most precise aspects of two stroke engines, and
understanding how the electronics work is key to troubleshooting many common
problems.

There is a small generator inside the engine called the magneto. When the motor turns,
the magneto generates electricity, which is used to create a spark. That spark ignites
the fuel and air mixture inside the cylinder of the motor. This is why it is necessary to
turn the motor over by pedaling the bike before it will start.

The electricity from the magneto then

goes to the CDI, which is the small black
box shown left. The electricity has a
currents, and must run a complete circuit
through the CDI to create a spark. Plug
the wires from the engine into the wires
of corresponding colors going into the
CDI. If the white wire or blue wire make
any connection to the black wire or the
frame, it will form a short which will stop
the engine from starting and might also
fry your CDI.
The thick black wire from the engine
connects to the spark plug. Tighten the
spark plug using the included spark plug
tool. Make sure the cap from the spark plug
wire is removed before connecting the
spark plug. Also, you will see two wires
coming out of the throttle assembly. These
wires are for the kill switch. Plug one wire
into each of the wires coming out of the
CDI. Pressing the kill switch forms an
electrical short, which prevents the spark
plug from sparking.

Step 10: Installation - The Clutch

The clutch on these motorized bikes is hand

operated. The black lever included in this kit
acts as the clutch. When you pull the black
lever in the engine disengages, and can be
pedaled freely. The clutch also has a lock so
when you want to pedal the bike you can do
so without holding the clutch in. Pull the clutch
in the whole way and use your thumb to push
down the pin near the lever. While still holding
the pin down, slowly release the clutch. This
will lock the clutch in neutral.

To install the clutch, remove the

grip from the left side of the handle
bars. Loosen the screw on the
clutch and push it onto the handle
bar. Position it so it will be
comfortable to operate, and adjust
the break lever as necessary. Now
tighten the screw and replace the
grip. If you want the grip to match
the throttle grip, use the included
grip that comes with the kit. Hook
the clutch cable into the clutch
lever. The other end of the cable
B
gets attached to the clutch arm on
the engine. The clutch arm on the
engine is highlighted by Arrow D.
 To attach the clutch cable to the
engine, first note the two springs.
The larger spring is used to protect
the cable from the heat of the
engine. Position it as illustrated by
Arrow B. The cable then goes
through the cable stop on the
engine, Arrow A, then the small
spring, Arrow C, and finally the
clutch arm, Arrow D. The Clutch
cable will stretch slightly with use,
so it will be necessary to adjust the
clutch after some use.

B A C D
Step 11: Installation - The Fuel System

The fuel system on this

engine is fairly simple. A
gravity feed system is
used to get the fuel into
the engine. Because of
this no pumps are used,
however, the gas tank
must be located higher
than the carburetor or the
fuel will not go into the
engine. Typically, the gas
tank gets bolted to the top of the bike frame. Once the
gas tank is securely attached to the frame, the next
step is to remove any contaminants from the tank.
Take off the lid of the tank and use a vacuum to suck
out any scrap material from inside the tank. NOTE:
E Never do this with a tank that has held gasoline. Next
screw on the fuel valve. First wrap a piece of gas line
Teflon thread seal tape around the threads of the fuel
valve. Then screw it tightly onto the gas tank. Now cut
the piece of gas line roughly in the middle and attach
the gas filter. Then attach one end of the fuel line to
the carburetor at the gas intake. (Arrow E)
Step 12: Installation - Finishing up

Finish the installation by attaching the chain guard. The bent end of the chain guard
gets bolted to the engine underneath the clutch arm. Connect the other side of the chain
guard to the frame by using a zip tie. Also, use zip ties to secure all cables and wires to
the frame. Finally, double check the electronics. Make sure all the wires are well
insulated and if necessary use electrical tape to additionally insulate the wires.

If you are having difficulties with any of the steps involved with installing the engine, or
for more information, be sure to check out the installation video on the daemon bikes
website.