CO N C R E T E

Curing

Methods

Water Curing

Sheet Curing

Membrane Curing N
G
I
T
Exposed Concrete E
R

Paving and Floor

C

Slabs
N

Conclusion
4
O
C

CEMENT & CONCRETE ASSOCIATION

E

SC
OF NEW ZEALAND
T
I
S
Curing
Introduction
Curing is the last, and one of the most important stages of concrete construction. No matter how thorough you have
been up to this point, if the curing is not done properly, the concrete will not develop to its full potential.
Concrete that has been properly cured is superior in so many ways. It is stronger, more resistant to chemical attack
and traffic wear, and more water tight. Furthermore, it is less likely to be harmed by frost and the accidental knocks
it is bound to receive.
The surface is the part of the concrete worst affected by poor curing. Yet it is this skin that gives concrete the
ability to withstand wear, and that protects the reinforcement and the "heart" concrete. If it is inadequately cured,
the effectiveness, and the lifespan, of the concrete will be affected.
What exactly does curing do? Well, when a cement is
mixed with water, a chemical reaction known as hydration
takes place. It is this that causes the cement, and with it
Curing the concrete, to harden and then develop its strength and
durability. But hydration can take place only if the concrete
is kept moist and at a favourable temperature in its early
life after placing, the process we call curing.
If the concrete dries out, the hydration reaction comes to a halt. The earlier this happens, the more serious is the
effect on the concrete's potential quality.
In this article, we tell you how to ensure that the concrete stays moist and at a suitable temperature during the first
few days in normal conditions. It must be noted that extra precautions should be taken during winter months.

METHODS concrete. Since ponding

generally requires
There are three basic ways of curing concrete. The first, considerable labour and
let us call it Group One, involves keeping the surface of supervision, however, the
the concrete moist by the use of ponding, method is often impractical
spraying/sprinkling, damp sand or damp hessian. except for small jobs.

The second, Group Two, prevents the loss of moisture Sprinkling

1 from the concrete by covering it with polythene sheeting
or leaving the formwork in place.
The third, Group Three, involves the use of spray or roller
applied curing compounds.
WATER CURING
Group One methods
(ponding, sprinkling,
and wet coverings),
if properly carried out
Ponding the concrete surface
can be the most
efficient, and appropriate for some types of work, eg
floors.
Ponding
On flat surfaces such as pavements, footpaths, and
floors, concrete can be cured by ponding. Earth or sand
dykes around the perimeter of the concrete surface
retain a pond of water
within the enclosed area.
An efficient method for
preventing loss of moisture
from the concrete, ponding
is also effective for
maintaining a uniform
temperature in the
Sprinkling the concrete surface
Hessian requires frequent wetting Continuous sprinkling with
water is also an excellent method of curing. If sprinkling
is done at intervals, care must be taken to prevent the
concrete from drying between applications of water. A
fine spray of water applied continuously through a system
of nozzles provides a constant supply of moisture. This
prevents the possibility of "crazing" or cracking caused
by alternate cycles of wetting and drying. A disadvantage
of sprinkling may be its cost. The method requires an
adequate supply of water and careful supervision.
Wet Coverings
Wet coverings such as hessian or other moisture
retaining fabrics are extensively used for curing. Such
coverings should be placed as soon as the concrete
has hardened sufficiently to prevent surface damage.
Care should be taken to cover the entire surface,
including the edges of slabs such as pavements and
footpaths. The coverings should be kept continuously
moist so that a film of
water remains on the
concrete surface
throughout the curing
period.
A roll or 125 micron polythene, 4m
wide x 25m long
 SHEET CURING Use tape or string for tying around beams and columns.

Group Two methods may not be so efficient but are
usually satisfactory for all except very special work.
The big plus is that they
can be carried out more
easily on both horizontal
and vertical surfaces.
Polythene Sheet
A simple, yet effective, way
of keeping moisture in the
Polythene sheet is lapped, taped and
tied around beams and columns concrete is to cover it with
125 micron (500 gauge) polythene sheeting.
Polythene sheet is a material that is easy to handle and
store, and afterwards it can be re-used for so many
other purposes on site, including, of course, curing other
concrete at a later date.
Sheeting should not be used
over pigmented or pattern
stamped concrete as it can
cause discolouration of the
surface.
If there is no chance of frost, and the concrete is hard
enough, it will assist the curing if you spray on water
before placing the polythene.
Formwork Protection
While it is in position, formwork protects concrete against
loss of moisture, and thus allows curing to proceed. It
is only after it has been struck that further curing, of
columns, walls and beams, for instance, may be
necessary.
Concrete that is in an exposed position must be
thoroughly cured even after prolonged protection by the
formwork. But in a mild, protected environment, and
provided that the formwork has been in position for at
least four days, there might be no need for further curing,
even in dry weather. However you should check this
point with the engineer or clerk of works.
If the formwork is struck in less that four days, and the
surfaces are designed to be a uniform colour, as in the
case of a row of columns, or a continuous wall, thorough
and uniform curing is essential.

Using Polythene
The polythene should be
2 Protect the finish of a textured slab
by raising the polythene on a frame. placed in position as soon as
possible; on vertical surfaces within half an hour of the
removal of the formwork; on slabs as soon as the
concrete is hard enough to prevent surface damage or
marking. Wait until the water sheen has evaporated, but
not so long that the concrete starts to dry out.
When the surface of the slab has a special finish, such
as a texture, the polythene should be spread over light
frames above the concrete. With such finishes there is
no need to wait for any bleed water to evaporate before
you position the polythene; the curing can start
immediately once the slab is finished.
It is important that the exposed edges and corners of
the sheet should be well fixed down. Otherwise wind
and draughts get underneath and create a wind-tunnel
effect that would dry the surface
of the concrete.
Even where the formwork is left in place, exposed top
surfaces must be cured in the normal way. The top of a
wall, for example, will be exposed to more severe
weather conditions than the face. The top will prove
more durable if it is sprayed with a high-grade curing
compound.
Where steel reinforcement projects from the top of a
wall or column, through a horizontal construction joint,
the top surface of the concrete should be covered with
polythene sheet pressed into place over the ends of the
bars. The polythene should be well taped to the top of
the formwork.
When concrete will receive a final applied decorative
treatment, such as rendering, plaster or paint, in
conditions of mild exposure (inside a building, for
instance) further curing may not be necessary, no matter
how early the formwork is struck, but this is something
you should check first.

Good fixing also, of course, MEMBRANE CURING

stops the polythene sheet from Group Three methods are also not as efficient as Group
blowing about. One methods, but have the advantage over the previous
If you have to use more than
two groups in that they do not need any further
one sheet, overlap them by at
supervision once applied.
least 300mm, and tape the joins.
Spray-on Compounds
Curing compounds are sprayed on the surface, a hand-
held garden spray is suitable for most jobs, and can be
used on both vertical and horizontal surfaces. It is On slabs, apply the compound as soon as possible after
essential always to choose the correct type of compound. any bleed water has evaporated, and certainly no later
Mostly, the compounds consist of a resin in a solvent that half an hour after the sheen caused by the water
that evaporates after it has been applied, leaving behind has gone. Curing compounds do not work if sprayed on
a thin, continuous film or membrane that seals-in most top of water.
of the moisture. The film peels off under the action of
In damp conditions the water may take a few hours to
wind and sun after about four weeks.
disappear, but much less on a dry day.
Most of the compounds come in two grades, a standard
Using the Compounds
grade having a curing efficiency of 75%, and a super
There are various points to watch when you are applying
grade with 90% efficiency. Both are usually available
a curing compound. Before you start, make sure that
with either a white or aluminized pigment, or with a
you have enough in stock for the job in hand, you will
fugitive dye. The white or aluminized pigmented
need about a litre for each
compounds are for external paved areas because they
4m2 of surface area, and
reflect the sun's rays, thus keeping the concrete cooler.
sufficient cleaning solvent,
Those with a dye allow you to check at a glance that a too.
uniform, all-over layer has been applied. The dye then
Always wear protective
quickly disappears without causing stains, provided it
goggles, gloves and mask.
is not applied to a dry surface.
You should avoid getting
A super-grade compound with white or aluminized the compound on your skin,
Equipment for applying a spray-on
pigment is advised for external paving, but a lower, non- in your eyes or in your curing compound
pigmented grade is satisfactory for structural concrete. mouth, for it might cause harm. Make sure you read and
In tropical climates, the higher efficiency grade should understand the manufacturer's
be used in every case. health and safety notes so that
you will know what to do if 3
Surfaces that will not be exposed to bright daylight
anything goes wrong.
should not be treated with a curing compound if they
are to receive any additional material that requires a Stir the compound before use,
positive bond. This includes screeds, rendering, paint especially if it is a pigmented
type finishes or a further layer of concrete. one, since the pigments tend
to settle at the bottom of the
A range of compounds that, it is claimed, can be used
drum. Fill the spray reservoir with the compound, then
in these situations, has recently been developed.
you can start work. You should hold the spray about 300
However, these compounds are not effective if they are
to 500 mm from the surface, preferably even closer when
applied with anything but the highest standards of
there is a wind.
workmanship, so at this stage caution in their use is
advised. In windy conditions, the
roller application
Curing compounds are
illustrated is the
generally non-toxic but
preferred option.
approval should be
obtained before using It is vital that you cover
Hold the spray close to the surface,
them on structures that will all the concrete, and and work in two directions
be holding drinking water. with a uniform layer. This is best ensured by first moving
Paved areas are cured with a super-
grade white, or aluminised, spray-on the nozzle back and forth to apply half the quantity
When to Spray compound
required, then applying the remainder by moving the
The compounds should never be applied to dry surfaces
nozzle at right angles to the initial strokes.
since these will absorb the compound, and staining or
discolouration may result. If the surface is dry, that is a Clean out the equipment with solvent after you have
sign that the curing has been left too late. finished, and whenever you break off spraying for more
On vertical surfaces, apply the compound, standard or than, say, half an hour, paying particular attention to the
high-grade, almost immediately after the formwork has nozzle and hose.
been struck. If the surface has dried out, wet it down
with clean water then spray while it is still moist.

EXPOSED CONCRETE
All concrete that will be permanently exposed to the
weather needs to be cured with extra care, and for at
least seven days. This is particularly important for visual
concrete, including white and coloured concrete, plus
special architectural finishes created by abrasive blasting
or tooling.
When using water spray techniques on special finishes
it is very important to avoid water streaking. This is best
achieved by using a fine fogging mist spray with the
concrete enclosed in a tent-like structure. This is more
appropriate for special precast concrete panels.
Well-cured concrete will be more impermeable and
better able to withstand freezing and thawing, wetting
and drying. It will also have a better long-term
appearance, since dirt will not collect so easily.
Polythene sheeting can be used, but a spray-on curing
compound is usually more convenient, although its use
may be subject to approval in the case of special visual
requirements for colour and uniformity.
Colour Uniformity
The colour of concrete can vary according to how long
the formwork is left in position after placing, and whether
4 the day on which it is struck is dry or wet.
Where uniformity of colour is important, for example
with as-struck, fair-faced and textured surfaces, you
should either leave the formwork in position for four
days, or, where it is struck in less than that time, cover
or wrap the concrete in polythene sheeting for at least
another three days. Curing compounds might discolour
the concrete, even if only temporarily, and might leave
some uneven staining.
White and Coloured Concrete
The polythene sheeting method of curing white or
coloured concrete needs to be used with care since dirt
surface contact at an early stage can lead to
discolouration. Polythene has the advantage that, if left
in place, it will protect the concrete from direct caused
by activities on the site. Removing stains and dirt at a
later stage is both time-
consuming and expensive.
You could use a curing
compound but only if you
are sure from site trials that
it will not cause staining of
the concrete. Fugitive dye shows whether the
application has been thorough
Rust Staining
The action of rain on reinforcement left projecting from
the tops of walls and columns, for example, for continuity
Curing of Concrete
with concrete that will be placed lateron, can create
rust. This will form stains as it is washed down the face
of the concrete.
You can prevent these rust stains by applying a neat
cement grout wash, or taping plastic sheaths, to the
exposed reinforcement.
PAVING AND FLOOR SLABS
It is essential for most horizontal surfaces to be well
cured, especially if they will have to stand up to foot or
vehicular traffic.
Always start the curing
soon after the water
sheen has disappeared.
However, if you are using
polythene sheeting, allow
the concrete to stiffen You must be able to cover the entire
surface, so you might need a moveable
slightly first, so that the walkway.
surface will not be marked or damaged as the sheet is
placed on top of it.
Major concrete roads are usually cured by a membrane
sprayed from a machine that is part of the paving train.
They are not considered in this article.
Minor Roads, Paths and Drives
A curing membrane, applied by a hand operated garden
type spray, is most convenient for small paved areas
built by semi-manual methods of construction.
Always use a white pigmented or aluminized super grade
of compound, if available, because this will reflect the
sun's rays. You must also take care to ensure that an
even, uniform coat of the membrane is applied, particular
care being needed in windy weather, when the stream
of compound could easily be blown "off course".
If the road is fairly wide,
you will not be able to
reach far enough to spray
the middle. You will
therefore need to work
from a movable walkway
that spans the road. A stout
Cement grout or plastic sheaths
prevent rust stains plank well supported at
both ends will be sufficient.
However, you might find it more convenient to use
polythene sheeting, and this is just as good. Keep the
sheet in place for at least seven days, and make sure it
is well fixed at the edges, where there is a tendency for
the concrete to dry out more quickly.
As discussed before, when coloured surfacing has been
used, a special spray curing compound should be used
rather than polythene.
Concrete Base Slabs
It is best to choose polythene sheet for curing a slab
that is later to receive a screed of cement-sand, or a
granolithic or other topping. Do not use a curing
compound, for this might affect the bond.
Cover the concrete as soon as any water sheen has
evaporated, and the surface is stiff enough not to be
damaged or marked by the polythene.

Direct Finishes and Toppings

Special attention to curing is essential for power floated
and granolithic finishes, which have to be so hard
wearing. Immediately after the final trowelling, the
surface should be firm enough to be covered with
polythene sheeting or similar, or treated with a curing
compound. Polythene should be kept in place for at least
seven days.
Some loss of moisture may occur at the edges and joints
of the sheets, and it will then be necessary to turn them
back and spray the surface with water every other day.
Do not forget to replace the sheeting properly if you do
this.

Cement-Sand Screeds
Curing compounds are not
recommended for cement-
sand screeds. The screed
should be kept
continuously damp for 5
seven days, preferably by
being covered with
polythene.
Helping the curing process by
regular wetting

CONCLUSION
Other topics in this series
All concrete surfaces need to receive attention for curing of brochures include:
following the appropriate method for site conditions. SC 1 Ordering Ready Mixed Concrete
SC 2 Moving Concrete
Failure to cure the surfaces causes loss of durability SC 3 Placing & Compacting Concrete
Also Engineered Concrete
and surface strength.
Solutions series:
ECS 1 Marine & Coastal
ECS 2 Chemical Resisting
ECS 3 Crack Control
ECS 4 High Strength Concrete
ECS 5 Industrial & Commercial Floors
ECS 6 Abrasion Resisting

Phone: 0800 ECS DATA

0800 327 328
Fax: 0800 ECS FAX
0800 327 329
“This series of brochures is based on the British Concrete Association publication series
‘Concrete on Site’, and is reproduced with the permission of C&CA of NZ.
Email: ecs@concrete.co.nz
The information contained is intended for general guidance only and in no way replaces the
service of professional consultants on particular projects. www.concrete.co.nz
No liability can be accepted for its use.”
For advice on your particular project call these numbers. Edition: May 1999