OVER ALL VIEW OF INDUSTRY

India has a long and rich tradition of providing variety of Textiles. The Textile Industry is the second largest Industry after Agriculture in the terms of persons employed. It employees around 38.11 million people. Besides generating employment, it also earns the nations substantial foreign exchange which accounts for nearly one-third of India's total foreign exchange earnings. The Indian Textile Industry, in itself is highly diversified. It ranges from the handmade traditional textile products in the cottage industry to the highly capital intensive, modern and sophisticated mill sectors and synthetic fiber and manufacturing units. In between these two extremes, lies a vast decentralized power loom and knitting sector. The textile and garment industry is booming in India, especially after elimination of the global quota system.Presently India is exporting garments to more than 100 countries including US, EU, Latin America, and Middle East. Last year, garment export was nearly $5000 million and about 1200 million pieces. The main competitors of India are countries like China, Korea, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Malaysia, and Sri-Lanka. The Indian garment industry is gaining ground in the world market at The key factors behind this are low technological development, lower output, cut throat competition, high raw material cost, inadequate infrastructure, traditional productivity, unfavorable regulatory policies, and globalization impact. However, there is a fair list of the producers, suppliers, and exporters that are fully acknowledged with regulatory policies and formalities, international marketing policies and procedures. The only concern is in executing their productivity initiatives, and meeting with order deadlines.

Now days, major companies are adopting merchandising concepts, which comply with all procedures to execute and dispatch the shipment on
Page 1

time, considering quality, cost and time. Merchandisers are serious in the success of any garment retail business. They provide the right products at the right time, enabling a company to match with latest market trends and meet the market demand. In the merchandising concept, time management is a gig to manage one's time properly, so he can focus on value. Today's garment merchandisers have to move with frequent changes in demand and the developing technologies utilized in manufacturing and production. To find out customer requirements, they regularly visit retail outlets, and come up with latest updates from frontline staff. In order to keep an eye on developments in sourcing, site visits are made every week to mainland factories to meet suppliers and study production. Designing and sampling are the main process in Garment Industry and it as a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples. The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge.

In garment merchandising, there is no specific rule, so it's important to be able to think on one's feet.

TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER TITLE

1 DEPARTMENTS 2.1. MERCHANDISING 2.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 2.3. FABRIC SOURCING 2.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT 2.5. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT 2.6. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT 2.7.PLANNING DEPARTMENT 2.8 .LABORATORY DEPARTMENT 2.9. MACHINE MAINTENANCE 2.10. CAD ROOM 2.11. CUTTING ROOM 2.12. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT 2.13. IED DEPARTMENT 2.14. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT 2.15. WASHING DEPARTMENT 2.16.QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT 2.17.FINISHING DEPARTMENT

MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which pr oducts are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. Mar kiting and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled. Two type of merchandising done in garment exports Marketing merchandising. Product merchandising. Marketing merchandising Main function of marketing merchandising is Marketing merchandising : is to bring orders costly products development
Page 3

and it has direct contact with the buyer. Product merchandising : Product merchandising is done in the unit. T his includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment. A Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows: Product Development Market and product Analysis Selling the concept Booking orders Confirming Deliveries Designing and Sampling Costing Raw Material Flow Monitoring Production Follow Ups Payments Follows

DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE
MARKETING MERCHANDISER HEAD MERCHANDISER SENIOR MERCHANDISER JUNIOR MERCHANDISER In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meets buyers expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples approved for

fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.

COSTING
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of production before the buyer sends on his PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece. These costs includes general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is done accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc. 1. start 2. Obtain tech pack from buyer 3. Costing 4. Sampling 5. Develop sample as 6. Analyze fabric 7. Analyze cost of Obtain general consumption from trims and sewing data from per the tech pack 8. CAD 9. fabric 10. IED 11. Prepare cost sheet 12. Develop proto from sample 13. sample 14. Cost sheet & sample sent to buyer for approval 15. Confirmation
Page 5

Yes No 16. Approval Cost sheet of order 17. reworked 18. Obtain GSD 19. Obtain PCD & 20. Source trims & 21. Book washing & 22. details from 23. fabric from 24. embroidery capacity if from IED 25. production unit required concerned dept 26. Execution of order by entering details in ERP 27. Prepare sample as per buyer requirements 28. Forward the sample to buyer for approval 29. Hold pre production 30. Comments received from buyer Yes No 31. Approval 32. meeting with the should be incorporated and fit production unit 33. sample reworked 34. Follow up with Submit required Offer garments Follow up Execute production documents to for final on the End. 35. bulk order departments & documentation inspection. 36. payments update the buyer dept 37. Truck out for goods.

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW

In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyers

specification. Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head. Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used. It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.

TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample: Fit Sample: Pilot Run Sample: Pre Production Sample: Pre Size set: Size Set: TOP Sample: Shipment Sample: Sales Sample:

MACHINE DETAILS
Page 7

There were a total of 300 machines in the sampling department. 250 operators 5 cutting tables 8 pattern making tables 1 conveyor belt fusing machine

FINISHING MACHINES
11 ironing tables 1 shirt folding machine

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample: After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable). Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style no/ Size Store

Tech pack received from merchant

Develop patterns Costing CAD Develop sample marker Develop fit/proto sample If any comments If no comments Revise Fit/Proto PP sample sample If any comments If no comments Revise PP sample Size set sample If any comments If no comments Incorporate buyer Sealer sample comments If any comments If no comments Incorporate buyer Bulk production comments (shrinkage to be added if it s a wash)

WORK FLOW OF SAMPLING FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
Page 9

merchandise ie fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric source must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.

STORAGE
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever needed in future.

FABRIC ISSUE

The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on Chillan. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it is issued as required. The Chillan contains information regarding style no, color, buyers name, and quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit.

FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric requisition from merchandiser Order placed Fabric receive invoice/Chillan Unloading after checking Tally with supplier invoice for quantity Send bill to gate for entry Receive fabric in store For ward fabric for inspection Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept. After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or accepted

If accepted Relocation in store Issue against job order Start Sampling Bulk Technical analysis. Vendor Receiving order from merchants evaluation/selection Technical analysis Order Placement If not Ok If Ok Rate quotation from suppliers S/Off Supplier selection Submit to buyer Redo S/Off Resubmission Sampling yardage/ POP Review & P.O Confirmation lab tests P.O Release to supplier Final approval by buyer Fabric receipt Bulk Co-ordinate with fabric audit & factory for quantity and quality checking. End

PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department
Page 11

The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same.

The working is as follows. The merchandisers give the touchback and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its production. In the process of doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button is Rs.32 then a Taxes of 2% + 14% of exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is also taken into consideration). This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.

After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the purchasing department in the for m of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer. Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer.

After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received in- house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then the order is being placed with the supplier sever al times for small quantities and POs have to be sent all the time so, in order to overcome this a breakups are being is given. Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the inspections that are being carried out for those materials.

Booking from merchants:

If No If Yes Check existing stock Adjust existing qty Supplier price Quotation and negotiation Proposals PO conformation Raising PO in ERP PO sending Send PO to accounts
Page 13

Follow ups for the Shipping doc sfor imports only Sending do c s to documentation dept.- for imports only Follow up with stores for any short age/ excess End

FABRIC AUDIT DEP ARTMENT

The main objectives of this department are: Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods. Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5. Inspection is done on the following grounds: 100% shade segregation is done. 100% width segregation is done. 15% fabric inspection is done for defects. 10 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics. The fabric is checked in full width for m only. The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.

SHADE SEGREGATION

The process for shade segregation in the fabric audit department is described follows: The fabric is received from the fabric store with Lab report. Swatch of fabric of about minimum 10% or at times 100% rolls from each lot / color are cut for lab tests if any. meters stripe across width of each roll or taka selected is cut and shade segregation is

done. All the cut pieces are aligned and made into a family or group and declare shades. Sometimes, swatch cards or shade bands are prepared and then fabric strip from each roll is matched. In some cases the shade groups are made after washing also. While doing shade segregation, color matching done by using paramount color matching cabinet which is provided with D-65, TL-84, CWF, TL-83, UV, INCA light sources. The shade bands or lot bands are then sent to concerned merchandisers, sourcing departments, cutting departments for approval and references. All the shade details are sent to the concerned people.

FABRIC INSPECTION
In GARMENT, four point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics are inspected under the 4 point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the standard fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification of serious defects in the subsequent process.

Fault description under the 4 point inspection system : LEVEL POINT INDICATION 0-3 inches 1 Yellow 3-6 inches 2 Green 6-9 inches 3 Navy Over 9 inches 4 Red Here the fabric acceptable level is maintained at: 30 points per 100 sq yards for mill made/ imported fabric. 40 points per 100 sq yards for power loom fabric. When the fabric is inspected as per the 4 point system, the defects
Page 15

are marked with different colored stickers for different types of defects as: Red Sticker Weaving Defect Blue Sticker Processing Defect Green Sticker Other Defects Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation . The fabric is issued for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. However, the cuttings are kept for reference.

INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS
The width is checked and average width is mentioned. The fold length is checked and the average is mentioned. The reed is checked and +/- 2 threads is acceptable. Center to selvedge color variation is not acceptable.

POWER CONSUMPTION
Start Receive fabrics Conduct shrinkage Verify whether quantity Forward one meter of test on minimum 2 received match with each consignment for If No If Yes bits/bale or minimum quantity ordered lab test 10 bits of consignment Inform to stores and prepare Inspection based o n four If No If Yes goods received note (in case of

points system). Match imported fabric bulk with approved dye lot, width of fabric etc. Name shade lot as ABC Send to merchant for buyers approval If approved Forward to If No If Yes cutting dept. Reject lot End

ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department: The acceptance of the raw materials or the accessories is generally done in terms of documents i.e., whatever it may be whether acceptance and revival whenever they are done they are done according to the documents that have been received from the merchants and also the department also makes the document for anything they carry out within their roof. The department first receives a PO copy from the merchants, which the merchants would have sent it to any one among the three above mentioned supplier types. As soon as the accessory department comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular material they will make a note of it in their ERP that they will be receiving that material and this is termed as PRE GRN. Once the material reaches the stores on the prescribed day and date the concerned person verifies the materials against invoice/ Delivery Chillan and packing list which they would have received from the merchant as already stated. After it is confirmed that the received materials is according to the documents then they carry out a quality inspection and this inspection is carried out irrespective to the type of the buyer. The company carries this
Page 17

inspection as per AQL standard 1.5 for all the types of goods received. Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which has been approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery Chillan and keep the trims ready to issue to the factories. Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC as already mentioned. Start Accept & receive materials against documents Prepare PRE GRN Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery Chillan & packing list Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQ
#

Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item Prepare GRN & do the bill entry. The same is forwarded to accounts for payment.

PLANNING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department: Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps them to know the capacity of the production floor. On receiving the order s, from the merchants they start to decide the

date for having the PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are, planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line openings and also buyers specifications and the skill of labor required for it. The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in which that particular order has been placed with. The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the particular style this will take about 10 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that has to be followed. Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style and structure, the skill level required for the various operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with r aspect to their skill levels required for manufacturing the particular garment for all the operations all together. Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire style. Secondly, they confirm m the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm m the PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the GM and FM. Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing
Page 19

and finishing departments. After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management every fortnight, then they prepare a Batch Commitment Sheet and this sheet is prepared about 3 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the batch that has taken up the job of producing the particular style, the quantity which they are committed to produce for a day and the labor details (which involves the number of operators and to which operation they are assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch. Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a Batch Variance Sheet, this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis. Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped. The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit idle with a reason of raw material nonavailability. The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then the department maintains a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.

LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department: The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchants approval.

The laboratory in this unit is the centralized one for the units that are located in Bangalore city. The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. T he departments and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.

Page 21

Fabric Sourcing department: The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for the particular style and then order for a few meter s and then after they receive the small amount then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular fabric sample.

The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows. Count Construction Color fastness to washing Color fastness to crocking Dimensional stability to washing Fabric strength Fabric weight

ACCESSORY STORAGE:
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows, Button breaking test Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness Color fastness test for elastics Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability Corrugated box

MERCHNDISING DEPARTMENT:

The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. T he garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as per the buyer specifications. After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer specifies. Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color and other material related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests. The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like: Types of tests. Urgency of the task. Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally. Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
Page 23

 Time required in getting the proper and the required output. Number of samples that has to be tested. Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the departments they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 3 days and then after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the concerned department form where they have got it. Start Fabric Sourcing Accessory stores Merchandising Test Carry on test on fabric and garment as per buyer Count Buttons requirement Color laces and Construction twill tapes On meeting buyer requirement, Color fastness samples to be to washing test and elastic sent to external lab to get approval Dimensional Stability washing Fabric Strength Corrugated box Fabric Weight End

MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart from having quality system and the best practices, machine maintenance is also a very important are to get quality products. Unacceptable quality of products often results illmaintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor. T he function of PREVENTIVE MAINT ENANCE includes; Care of the fittings Adjusting settings Oil changing Graph maintenance Outward/inward reports Needle weekly reports. Machine configuration chart History card Needle log cards.

TYPES OF MACHINES
Over lock DCX1/DCX27 Flat lock UYX128/DVX43 Pivoting UOX163/T VX7 Smoking DVKX25/DVX57 Shell stitch LS-151 Pick/ saddle stitch DBX1 Bar tack DPX5/DPX17 Button stitch( shank button) TQX3 Button stitch DPX5/DPX7
Page 25

Button stitch chain stitch TQX1/TQX7 Button hole DPX5 Zigzag DBX1 Six thread cover seam m/c UOX118

CAD ROOM
GARMENT EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of Potties software package.

FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM

CAD department is responsible for the following functions: Determining cutting average for costing Making the most efficient cutting marker Development and alteration of patterns Development of size set pattern by grading Embroidery graphics making Digitizing the pattern

BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room: Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements. Graded measurement spec sheet. Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or folded for m), roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc. Then the work of the CAD room begins. Receive spec sheet form Receive patterns from pattern Digitize pattern to feed in Pattern correction Output to Pattern grading Graphtec

plotter Cut ratio planning Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling. Market planning according to the cut plan ratio Output marker Output mini to plotter WORK FLOW IN CAD printer DEPARTMENT Send to room for cutting merchandiser for costing.

EFFECTS OF CAD
All the jobs described so far lend themselves ideally to computerized graphics. The master patterns or blocks can be stored as images in the computer and called up as required, together with a list of each of the pattern parts for that block. With the use of a light pen, each part can be brought up in turn and enlarged on the screen. This job obviously retains its skill and even requires the added skill of computer operation. With interactive graphics the pattern maker can now adjust each part to match the designer's concept. EFFECT OF CAD ON GARMENT DESIGN AND PRE-ASSEMBLY Block images stored in computer Grading technique replaced by expert system Percentage wasted computed and displayed for each layout Fabric pattern constraints incorporated in the program Learning system incorporated Lay-makers deskilled Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM Women take over as operators Wages reduced
Page 27

The grading technique, developed by graders over many years in the form of tables, has been entered into the computer for use in a primitive expert system, so that grading is now automated. The skill has been appropriated and the job has been deskilled. Finally, the layout or marking is done by an operator working at the VDU. At each trial he/she can be supplied with a computed ratio of cloth used to cloth wasted. The optimization technique has a learning routine, so that the operator's skill is gradually incorporated into the program as a rule base. Each time the program is used it therefore Garment 6 accomplishes its task more rapidly and further deskills the operator. A radically different approach can be taken in which the problem is solved by an algorithm developed by a highly skilled technicist of another discipline - say an industrial mathematician. This would be the approach adopted in a window factory to computer the optimum cutting pattern with minimum wastage for an order of window panes. In these cases, of course, the old craftsman is simply scrapped. This is important because the same distinction is applicable to the programming of robots. To illustrate, Fig. 276 shows three possible arrangements for the cutting of shoe vamps13. The second and third assume a cutting tool that can rotate 180 deg. These were developed using theorems in pure mathematics. 14 The result of these technological changes has been to allow women to follow the keyboards into the cutting room as CAD operators. Not only are some of the jobs deskilled but wages are lowered across the board. Such a strategy is said to be essential if the domestic garment industry is to compete with the third world. But things are not always what they seem. Take the case of Vogue Brassiere who have closed one of their two Canadian factories and moved production to Mexico. Zeller's sell two lines of Vogue Brassiere, one made in Canada with the seams turned over and stitched, retailing in 1992 for $20.50, one made in Mexico with serged edges (an inferior way of finishing) retailing at $19.50. The wages in Canada are $8.00/h those in Mexico 50c. Who pockets the difference?15 The completion of the automation of the cutting room is achieved by linking the CAD

Garment 7 system to an automated, digitally controlled, cutting knife able to cut 200 layers of cloth at a time. This is being replaced by a cutting laser with much greater accuracy where the fabric permits. Interviews with managers have revealed that they feel the benefits come as much from enhanced control of both human and

material "resources" as from savings in the wage bill. As one manager said "It puts management in the driver's seat". There are also savings in fabric costs as the layout routine is claimed to perform consistently at the level of the best markers.16 This is not yet the case at Kids Only, where the final adjustments are done by the operator

CUTTING ROOM The Old Craft of the Cutting Room

The business of turning fashion designs into working patterns was originally of course a purely manual craft. Step 1. The pattern makers use cardboard master patterns (called blocks) representing the standard garments such as "ladies blouse with set-in sleeve". They adapt the fo these and make a complete pattern on thin card for the standard size of garment, accompanied by detailed patterns for each of the parts: sleeve, cuff etc. with allowances for Garment 5 seams. This is called "splitting" in the shoe industry. Incidentally, the process is just the same for shoes as for garments. You may recall the discussion of CAD applications to the Ontario shoe industry shown in the movie on automation. Step 2. A standard pattern goes to a grader who adapts it to the full range of sizes using "grading rules" codified in a set of written tables based on experience of human anatomy. Obviously, if a person is a centimetre taller it doesn't mean they are a centimetre wider. For each size, separate patterns are made for each of the parts of the garment: collar, cuffs etc. As many as a hundred parts may be created. This job is, I suppose, the key to customer satisfaction in fit. Step 3. These parts then go to the marker or lay-maker who lays them out like a jigsaw puzzle on a table which may be 30 m long. The marker's job is to maximize the
Page 29

utilization of a bolt of cloth while observing certain constraints such as the direction of the pattern or the weave. Fabric costs amount to, on average, 50% of the costs of making a garment. Therefore this job has key economic importance. If you have an experienced cutting room staff to inspect, do NOT assume that they are doing every thing perfectly. Effective inspection requires random examination of cutting operations. The inspector should not develop a set routine. You do not want the workers to be in the habit of knowing when and how you will conduct your inspection. You should make every effort to get a fair representation of the cutting production by making random checks on the cutting room floor. When checking spreaders, make certain to check for marker placement, shading, table marks, etc. Here are a few issues to check. Marker Placement : check that the marker is placed on the spread with the edge parallel to the selvage of the piece goods. Verify that all cut pieces will be complete.

Shading : unless all parts are plymarked, it is essential to have a system to control shading. Table marks : check the table marks as they table is marked. Allow no minus tolerance for the splices. Markers : ensure that no markers are creased, damaged, or have overlapped parts. Splices : after completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both piles extend past the marked splice by no less then 1/2 inch and no more then 1 inch. Narrow Goods : after completion of the spread, check the far edge of the spread to see that all plies extend beyond the marker line.

Tension : check tension during spreading. This is very important on knit fabrics. Count : check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting. Count all plies at both ends. There should be no tolerance. Leaning : check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to table top. Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the table top. Record the spreading defects by the quantity of defects found for each checkpoint. Any defective work discovered by the inspector should be immediately corrected.

Scissors and Shears

A sharp pair of scissors or shears is integral to cutting fabric. The difference between scissors and shears is in the handle: the two handles on a pair of scissors are identical, whereas one handle is larger than the other on a pair of shears. Scissors and shears can be used for most basic cutting tasks.

Knife Cutting Machines

Cutting machines are commonly used for the mass commercial production of clothing. The straight knife cutting machine is the most commonly used machine. Other cutting machines include band knife machines and round knife machines. Both computerized and manual versions of these machines are available.

Rotary Cutters

These small hand-held devices with a circular blade that slices through fabric. They are similar to the round blade machines used in commercial garment making, but smaller and not motorized. They are usually used with

Page 31

a self-healing mat to avoid damaging work surfaces.

Pinking Shears

Pinking shears are specialty scissors with scalloped blades. They are used to finish seams by providing an edge that does not unravel. BASIC WORK FLOW:

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in for m of a package file that carries the following details:

Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims averages. Measurement sheet Design worksheet of the garment Purchase order Fabric requisition sheet CAD mini marker Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut. ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS: Spreading: Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.

The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine. While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the machine.

Cutting:
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut. Spread Place marker Cut pattern pieces

Block cutting:
Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to requirements of matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching the stripes with those in the previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks.
Page 33

Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on the top with marking chalk and using the hard paper patterns. T he plies in the block are aligned to the match the stripes and a rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. T he cut shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to finish the patterns.

Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also more due to cutting in two stages. Spread Match Mark blocks Match Mark patterns Cut patterns Match Final precise shaping of patterns

Sorting and Ticketing:

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-tobolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of mar king the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.

Cut panel checking:

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

Bundling: The checked components of one style and in one size ar e now clubbed and bundled using ties. T he size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the production department when asked for. EMBROIDERY
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re- cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery.

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from the bundle. T he fusing mater ial (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the components to be fused.
Page 35

T he components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department: The production they have take about days. production floor does production in two types, once during pilot where to produce about 150 200 garments for the new style this will 40 55

The production floor will receive the details like, the style or the garment, number of operators required, the batch for which the style has to be installed, any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular target for each day Breakup of the production quantity.

style,

After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style. Before starting the proper production the production floor does a process of batch-setting for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this teaching session will go on for about 3 4 days maximum. After this batch setting process the

production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 100 150 and so on, this will make the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for the particular style. Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is done then there will be a line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are checked and sent. During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are In-process checking. End line checking. Her e there exists both AQL audit and normal checking. The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking is done. The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 20 pieces in each bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig zag motion which is followed. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three and this depends on the buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment. The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages
Page 37

the entire batch which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform, 1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators. 2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task. 3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to them. 4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get him/her their material and ask them to work. 5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best. 6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management. 7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operators skill level whenever asked for. 8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a better person to fit into that vacant place. 9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary. 10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the factor at any time. The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of the opera

IED DEPARTMENT Functioning of the Department:

The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria, operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in deter mining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of garment. The different departments with which the IED works are as follows. The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or no. The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it.

The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that
Page 39

. This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and also maintain the quality of their work. After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the efficiency. T his efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch. This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR. Based on the operator s performance which would have been observed for a specified period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows, Skill type Grade A Highly skilled B Skilled C Semi skilled The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of, 20% - Highly Skilled 25% - Skilled 55% - Semi skilled This is done irrespective to any style and buyer and the complication of the style. A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases.

Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operators skill and his efficiency, working method and after a particular span of time they update the record. Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training for about 45 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hours test to know his skills and then grade is been allocated. Everyday the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow the right one. Training, selection & Production n Dept. Systems Pre-prod. activities development Prepare O.B Selection of operators, Calculate accessories helpers, supervisors, consumption hourly production tracking checkers, QC, etc.& Capacity study Efficiency calculation Skill matrix Batch layout Style Batch bulletin performance End
Page 41

EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department: T he embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest embroidery unit in Asia. T he embroider y section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from the merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in company, the department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also get a sample of the garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use this as their reference sample / piece. As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be done and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and check for the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch involved for the design, thread colors required, thread tax, starting point of the design on the garment while performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in the softcopy format and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start the further operation . After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 7 garments and it is something done against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been generated then they conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section. Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be produced is known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery action on the garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and the other case is after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a complete garment. The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the cutting department and then they start their embroidery process. After the embroidery is been done for the first set of the garment or the

cut parts received then they send them to the trimming and the checking section for every machine there are operators for this process. The operators are provided with hearing aids in this department because of the maximum noise that is been produced by the machines. Start Receive designs from the merchant Scan and punch design Strike- off of design Samples to be done against orders Conduct pilot run of the styles Start bulk production Trimming & checking Packing Delivery Style reconciliation End

WASHING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department: Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%. T he merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that will be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the factory and then they show both the samples and the specifications and ask the washing department to match the factory sample with the buyer sent sample with respect to the feel and the texture, for this the merchandiser himself/herself comes to the washing department in case of samples. The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like
Page 43

Type of the material. T he texture that is under demand. Types of labels that are been used in the garment. Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a colored fabric). Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment. Types of threads used for in sewing. Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish. The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric. T he sensitivity criteria of the fabric. T he wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product. The sequence of the processes. Temperature at which the garment has to be treated. Duration of the treatment.

After coming to a conclusion of what recipe has to be used for the garment they start try eating the garments in the desired sequence. At first they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise, suppose the garments which are white in color and which have to be treated in the similar manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles. After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyers specifications. In this washing there are two types. 1. Wet processing 2. Dry processing First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed. In the dry processing there are four different types they are, 1. Grinding 2. Ripping or Blowout 3. Sandblasting 4. Crinkling After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing. Wet processing involves mainly two types, they are 1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive

dyes and pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in practice and sometimes the usage of the dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer demands and requirements. 2. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they are classified as follows, Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry Softener wash Desire wash Enzyme wash Stone enzyme wash Rubber ball wash Denim wash Bleach wash Tinting/ T- staining Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at such situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dr y pr accessing stage or else the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to the dry processing and then from there to the wet pr accessing where it is first sent to the dyeing and then to the washing process. After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine depending on the tumbler capacity and then the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages will be extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure that has to be used for that particular style / garment.

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department: Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applied even to garment industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which are as follows. Pre-production audit:
Page 45

In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all samples and precisely for the size set samples and also for the pilot production garments. The size set samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the buyer for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment. For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt loops, etc., For the pilot run production also the garments are checked for the dimensions and also for the placement of the accessories and trims for example, the label attachment areas, etc. , Cutting audit: In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing is further divided into many other departments which are, 1. Spreading 2. Relay cut 3. Band knife 4. Shade 5. Hard pattern

Sewing audit
In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are 1. In line audit: Here the garments are checked during their different stages of manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment is split into the required number of parts may be two three and then at the end of each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is auditing. For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front, finish if back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the shirt is being checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will

be provided by certain specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which he checks the garment. Here every single garment is checked. End line audit: Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical positions and then the placements of the labels. Button/button hole : In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator does it himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment and the operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the garment to attach the button/ making the button holes. After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be sent to the respective departments for rectification

FINISHING DEPARTMENT
Functioning of the Department: The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. T his department includes major lay of the following steps, Trimming: T his involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas. Inspection T he inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the company has to do as specified.

Page 47

Semi pressing: T his happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process. Pressing: T he pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing. Tagging section: Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments are folded according to the buyers specification and also they are either folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the buyers specifications again. The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these specifications. Packing: T he packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the packing of the garments they are as follows, There are generally two kinds of packing the garment, 1. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be specified by the buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged in the carton box. 2. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag. The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different ways which is as follows,

Solid Packing: In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single color and same size. For example, 20 shirts of a similar color say navy blue and the size say S will be put in one carton box. Ratio Packing: In this method the carton box includes garments of same color but of different sizes according to the ratio. For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5. Mixed Packing In this method the carton box includes garments of different colors but of same size or garments with different colors and different sizes in a particular ratio form. After the packing is done the garments ar e kept in the godown/stores until the buyer sends the buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives he will check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or Srejected.

Page 49