Marks & Spencer

METHOD OF TEST WASCATOR DURABILITY WASH FOR GARMENTS AND COMPONENTS

PURPOSE APPARATUS To assess the durability to washing of garments and components, except for knitwear. 1. Wascator FOM 71 MP Lab Model or 71CLS with Durability Wash programmes (contact John Godrich) (See Equipment Index Ref: 11A, 13AC, 23E and 24B). Tumble dryer (see test method PG) (See Equipment Index Ref: 13Y and 24S) (or domestic tumble dryer which meets same specification). Marks and Spencer standard makeweights (see Equipment Index Ref. 11C, 13AB 22A and 24U). Non-rusting mesh drying trays. Balance/scales which are capable of weighing up to 2kg in 25g graduations with a pan capable of holding a 2kg load. Chemical balance accurate to at least 0.01g.

P5A

2.

3. 4. 5.

6. TEST SPECIMEN

Whole or part garments. IMPORTANT: COMPONENTS AND ACCESSORIES (e.g. motifs, trims, zips, buttons, studs, etc.) MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE GARMENT IN THE MANNER TO BE USED FOR PRODUCTION. In certain instances, when components are being tested by the component supplier (e.g. buttons, zips etc), they may be attached to a Marks and Spencer polyester makeweight (e.g. two buttons on both sides of the makeweight, one zip attached diagonally across the makeweight). Garment specimens and zip specimens should be examined, prior to washing, paying particular attention to those points itemised under Examination and Reporting of Results. For other components and accessories - refer to the appropriate Performance Standards for details. It is recommended that a second garment is retained for comparison afterwash.

P5A P1 of 4

AUGUST 2007

P5A

Marks & Spencer

METHOD BEFORE PROCEEDING ENSURE ALL DETAILS IN METHOD OF TEST P1 PART C OR P1 PART D HAVE BEEN COMPLIED WITH. NB: For these durability washes, both WASH and RINSE water levels should be 100mm. Detergent Mix 5g of a heavy duty low lather powder detergent containing optical brightening agent in approximately 0.5 litres of warm water. Temperature used must relate to the HLCC care label, i.e. Garments and components with a:50C label 40C label Wash Load Wash at 60C -2C Wash at 50C -2C

Temperature

1kg. Test specimen should be weighed and the wash load made up to 1kg by the addition of the makeweights. All garments must be washed face side outwards and with all fastenings undone, unless the care label gives a contrary instruction.

Procedure

1. 2. 3.

Place the wash load in the Wascator. Ensure test specimens are not folded. Close the door. Select the appropriate wash programme. Start the Wascator and add the prepared detergent mix by pouring it through the dispenser when water is first visible in the sight tube. This will help keep the sight tube clean and prevent undissolved detergent collecting. At the end of the wash programme, remove the specimens, taking care not to distort them.

4. Drying

All specimens with fused components, including fused motifs, must be tumble dried (including garments that will be labelled as Do not tumble dry). Other garments should also be tumble dried unless the care label gives a contrary instruction. When tumble drying, the load should be made up to 1kg with makeweights if required. The tumble dryer should be operated at the HOT setting. The specimen should be tumbled for 90 minutes in the case of samples containing fused components or motifs. Otherwise, tumble until dry.

AUGUST 2007

P5A P2 of 4

Marks & Spencer

EXAMINATION The effect of washing should be assessed by comparison AND REPORTING with the examination made prior to washing. RESULTS Garments Report the wash temperature and the method of drying used. Comment on the following and, where appropriate, indicate the position on the specimen. 1. Differential Shrinkage which may have occurred between fabric components, e.g. dropped or tight linings, seam pucker, distortion of components. Seam Breakdown including inadequate seams, partial or non-inclusion, faulty thread or stitching, fabric slippage, fraying from seam turnings, stitching damage, run back. Fused Components which may have delaminated, or otherwise changed in appearance, differential shrinkage/bobbling. Quantify this as:No Delamination or otherwise Negligible changed in appearance, Slight differential shrinkage or Fairly Distinct bobbling Complete Change in handle or appearance where significant. Assess the following points in the Light Cabinet, using D65 Artificial Daylight, or UV where indicated. 5. Effect on accessories such as buttons, zips, care labels etc. (For Care Labels, grade loss of print as No, Negligible, Slight, Distinct or Complete). Pick up of Optical Brightening Agent which may occur on certain substrates as a result of the optical brightener present in the detergent. Check under UV light. Colour Fastness Some degree of shade change, cross-staining between components or staining of wash liquor may occur. This does not necessarily indicate a colour fastness problem but if in doubt the appropriate Marks and Spencer colour fastness tests should be carried out.

P5A

2.

3.

4.

6.

7.

P5A P3 of 4

AUGUST 2007

P5A

Marks & Spencer

Zips Assess the zips numerically as below:5. 4. 3. No Change in Appearance Negligible Change in Appearance very slight chipping/abrasion on prominent edges. Slight Change in Appearance marked chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or puller attachment and/or very slight loss of lustre/sheen/finish Fairly Distinct Change in Appearance significant chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or puller attachment and/or moderate loss of lustre/sheen/finish Distinct Change in Appearance excessive chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or puller attachment and/or distinct loss of lustre/sheen/finish.

2.

1.

For component and accessories, refer to the appropriate Performance Standards for details of assessment points. IRONING OR PRESSING Motifs must not be ironed In other cases, after examination and reporting it may be necessary to iron and press the test specimen for further evaluation. Such ironed or pressed specimens must be clearly identified as such in order not to subsequently mislead.

AUGUST 2007

P5A P4 of 4