Wheat and Other Grains Buy dark hard winter or dark hard spring wheat. (Investigate new breeds).

Buy #2 grade or better. Protein content should be from 12-15 percent. Moisture content should be 10% or less. The wheat should be clean and free from living insects and foreign matter. After purchase, the wheat should be placed in a sturdy, moisture proof container: a 5 gallon airtight metal container with a tight fitting Grains (wheat, rice or cereals) = 300 lbs. Powdered milk (nonfat) = 75 lbs. Sugar or honey = 60 lbs. Beans & legumes = 60 lbs. Cooking oil or shortening = 20 lbs. Salt = 5 lbs. Double-friction lid (seal is the same as a paint can) is a good container. Sturdy poly-ethylene plastic buckets with tight fitting lids are also acceptable for wheat storage. Don't store wheat directly on concrete floors. Keep cool and dry and away from steam, water pipes, un-vented clothes dryer, wet clothes, etc. Wheat should be treated at time of storage to guard against hatching of insect eggs. If the wheat is stored in an airtight container, it may be treated with dry ice. Drop a piece (Not pulverized) of dry ice (onefourth pound per 5- gallon container) in the container and pour the wheat on top of it. Place the lid on, but not tightly, for five to six hours; then tighten the lid to be airtight. Other grains to consider storing are rye, triticale, corn, popcorn, barley, millet, rice, and oats. Pasta products can be counted in your grain quota. Uncooked milled rice (white, par-boiled, and precooked) keeps indefinitely without refrigeration. Because of the oil in it's bran layers, brown rice has a shelf life of only about six months. Refrigerator or freezer storage is recommended. Cooked rice may be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week or in the freezer for six months. Flour should never be stored by apples, onions, potatoes, etc. as it will absorb moisture from them causing it to spoil more quickly and it will also take up their flavors.

Non-Fat Dry Milk/Dairy Products Powdered milk may be purchased in both instant and regular forms. There is no nutritional difference between the two forms, and the storage life is equivalent. Buy "extra" grade "low heat" powder. It should have been dried using a "low heat spray process". It should ideally also have been fortified with vitamins A and D. Dry milk should be stored in a tightly covered container and stored in a cool, dry, and dark location up off the floor. Dry milk must be rotated, even if you package and store it correctly. Dry milk will store well at 40oF. for 36- 60 months and at 70oF. for 12-24 months. Dry milk will store longer when packed in vacuum or nitrogen. Other dairy products which may be stored include: canned evaporated milk, canned baby formula, powdered baby formula, cream substitutes, cheese spreads, brick cheese, powdered cheese, margarine, butter, powdered butter, dried eggs. Sugar or Honey Sugars are high in calories and low in nutrients and are one of the most maligned of all foods. There is no scientific evidence that sugar is responsible for all the problems attributed to it. The main health hazards from eating too much sugar are a possible increase in dental caries and obesity. White sugar, brown sugar, powdered sugar, corn syrup and honey may be stored. Honey kept for many months may darken slowly and become stronger in flavor but will still be usable. Honey and corn syrup may crystallize as they get older, but may be melted over hot water for use. The Honey Association recommends that infants under one year old should not be given honey because it is a raw product and may contain naturally occurring bacteria their systems cannot handle. You may also wish to store jams and preserves, flavored gelatin and pudding mixes, powdered drink mixes, sweet toppings and syrups, candy, and soft drinks. Salt Iodized salt is best as it will help in proper functioning of the thyroid gland. Pickling salt may also be stored for bottling pickles and rock salt

for making ice cream. Store salt in its original container in a dry cool, dark location and it will keep indefinitely. Fats and Oils Twenty pounds of fats or oils per person should be stored for one year (1 gallon equals 7 pounds). Soybeans, flax, safflower, sunflower, and caster beans are examples of crops which are grown primarily for their oil. Most cooking oils and shortenings will store for two to three years if kept in a cool dark, dry location. Olive oil and corn oil are also very good storage oils and have a better flavor then soybean and safflower oils. Fats and oils may be stored in the following forms: cooking oil (vegetable oil), shortening, butter (fresh and dried), margarine or margarine powder, mayonnaise, salad oils and dressings including dried mixes. Dried Beans and Legumes Beans, peas, lentils, etc. provide an economical substitute for meat or other animal protein. The packaged beans, which are on the grocery shelf, are normally the highest grades. Dry beans are an easily stored food. They should be kept in a tightly covered, metal, glass, or plastic container in a dark, dry and cool location. The quality should be good for many years when stored under these conditions. Older beans will require longer soaking and cooking periods than freshly harvested beans. Varieties of beans that may be stored are navy, pinto, kidney, black, lima, garbanzo, black-eyed peas, split peas, lentils and soybeans. Textured vegetable protein (TVP) is a vegetable protein made from soybeans, but its texture is similar to that of meat. When used with meat, good quality TVP absorbs the flavor and is difficult to distinguish from the meat. It can be bought as unflavored or flavored (beef, ham, bacon, or chicken). Shelf-life is two to three years. As it ages, it becomes stale. Vitamin and Mineral Supplements It is recommended that 365 vitamin or vitamin/mineral tablets or capsules be stored for each family member to help compensate for possible deficiencies in the diet due to a lack of variety of foods, and because of vitamins lost during food processing, storage, and preparation. Shelf-life is about three to five years if stored in a cool, dry and dark location. Despite careful food planning, women may still

need an iron and calcium supplement, particularly if they are pregnant or nursing. Storage of iron and calcium should be carefully considered. Suggestions on Storage of Canned Foods
Issued by The General Church Welfare Committee

Since pioneer days, our people have been counseled by their leaders to have a reserve of essential foodstuffs. In many cases, this reserve will be produced by the householder and preserved by him. When these foods are processed in metal cans coated with tin or enamel linings, the question frequently arises as to the length of time the foods can be safely stored for human consumption. Canned foods that have been in storage for a long period of time in cans that are not bulged or leaking are safe to eat as the first day packed. However, they may have lost some of their flavor due to a chemical reaction in the can. This reaction is not poisonous, but does alter the flavor, texture, and nutritive value. The rate at which chemical reactions occurs doubles with each 18 degrees Fahrenheit rise in temperature. Fifty degrees Fahrenheit storage will hold four times longer than an 80 degree Fahrenheit temperature. Due to the various temperatures where canned food may be stored, it is difficult to determine the definite period of time at which all canned foods will hold. We will group some of them. The short shelf life products are highly acid and pigmented foods such as grapefruit and orange juice, black and red cherries, all colored berries, prunes and plums. These canned foods generally have an average storage life of one to two years. Other fruits such as peaches, pears, apricots, and applesauce should average from two to three years. Vegetables such as beets, carrots, green beans, spinach, greens, tomatoes and tomato juice should have an average storage life from three to four years. Vegetables and meats such as peas, corn, lima beans and roast beef should have an average from four to five years. Canned milk should be agitated every thirty days. This prevents the fats from separating, and the product should be consumed within a year. Canned goods should be stored in a cool, dry place; the cooler and dryer the canned goods are kept, the longer they will last. Place the oldest canned goods on the shelves so that they will be used first. Fruits, vegetables, and meats properly processed in glass jars and

stored in the home will keep in a cool, dark, dry place fully as long as canned goods. Some fruits, such as the highly pigmented, will keep longer in a glass container.

Food Storage Basics

Food and water are the main priorities in preparing for emergencies! Purchase If there is a break in the supply chain, there could be shortages or store closures. The best alternative is buying what you need ahead of time, at least 6-9 months prior. During an emergency,it is important to avoid adding additional stress. As much as possible, have a supply of foods on hand that you would normally eat. Plan your purchase by making simple menus of balanced meals using foods you are used to eating. Choose foods that have a long shelf life, have a high water content, and that can be stored at room temperature. Avoid foods packaged in syrup, that have a high salt (sodium) content, or that have alcohol or carbonation. Such foods tend to increase the body's demand for water. Build up your everyday stock of canned goods and other prepared foods until you have an adequate surplus. Rotate it periodically to maintain a supply of common foods that will not require special preparation, water or cooking. Canned foods last a year at full quality. Buy a supply of bulk staples for longer-term storage. Bulk quantities of wheat, corn, beans and salt are inexpensive and have nearly unlimited shelf life. Remember that dried foods will take extra water for cooking. Consider including: Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits, and vegetables Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered,store extra water) Sugar, honey Ready-to-eat cereals and uncooked instant cereals (in metal containers)

Foods for elderly persons or persons on special diets High energy foods (peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola bars, trail mix) Vegetable oils Dried spices (pepper, garlic, onion, oregano, chili powder, etc.) Non-carbonated soft drinks Bouillon products Storage:

Choose a cool spot and use only food-grade containers. Plastic buckets with tight fitting lids work well for bulk staples (restaurants often give these away). Keep food covered at all times. Inspect all food containers for signs of spoilage before use. The order in which to use food when the power goes off:

1. 2.

3.

First, use perishable food and foods from the refrigerator. Second, use the foods from the freezer. To minimize the number of times you open the freezer door, post a list of freezer contents on it. In a well-filled, well-insulated freezer,foods will usually still have ice crystals in their centers (meaning foods are safe to eat) for at least three days. Finally, begin to use non-perishable foods and staples. Preparation Be aware that propane and kerosene stoves and charcoal grills, as well as other alternate cooking devices, are dangerous to use indoors, as they produce toxic fumes that cannot be smelled. Also, many of these fuels are extremely flammable. Do not use any camping stoves or charcoal grilles indoors at any time. Store all fuel outside of buildings. Propane or kerosene stoves work fine for most stove-top cooking. An outdoor charcoal or propane grill can do double duty, and so can your fireplace (as long as it is wood burning). You can also heat food with candle warmers, chafing dishes and fondue pots. Canned food can be eaten right out of the can. If you heat it in the can, be sure to open the can and remove the label first.

Also, canned foods won't require cooking, water or special preparation. Camping supply stores have a variety of devices with which you can cook, from solar to the old Sterno cans. Make any purchase well in advance. Prices may go up, and availability may go down.

January Storage Goal: 24 cans of meat or fish per person l gallon of bleach per person can opener garbage bags laundry detergent 72 hour kit: Gather a change of clothing including underwear and shoes for each family member--include warm coats and boots, or have them immediately accessible. Axe, shovel, bucket and utility knife. $20.00 in cash. $5.00 in change for phone. February Storage Goal: l00 pounds (total) pasta and flour per person. Hand grain mill. Thread needles, buttons, and zippers. 72 hour kit: l gallon water per person. Scriptures. Personal documents--genealogical records, wills passports, insurance, contracts, birth certificates, patriarchal blessings, etc. $25.00 cash March Storage Goal:

50 cans of soup, stew, or chili per person. 5 pounds of salt per person. 20 pounds of fat, oil, or shortening per person. Aluminum foil, plastic wrap storage bags, etc. At least 5 gallons of water per person--recommended is l4 gallons/person for 2 weeks. 72 hour kit:

l pound dried fruit or trail mix per person (can use fruit leather). l package soda crackers per person (4 per box). l package graham crackers per person(4 per box). 2 liters tomato or orange juice per person (Note: these items will be rotated every 6 months - see September) April Storage Goal:

2 pounds yeast per person. 2 pounds baking powder per person. l pound soda per person. l gallon vinegar per person. l0 cans evaporated milk per person. l0 pounds peanut butter per person. Spices, condiments, and vanilla. 72 hour kit:

4 granola bars per person. 2 sticks beef jerky per person. l package chewing gum per person. Hard candies or lollipops. At least l2 per person (note these items will be rotated every 6 months - see October) May Storage Goal:

l00 pounds variety cereal grains-rice, oatmeal, cornmeal, etc. per person. 24 rolls paper towels per person. 24 packages flavored gelatin per person. Garden seeds.

l small bottle olive oil (for consecrating). At least one month prescription ahead for all doctor prescribed medication. 72 hour kit:

Battery powered radio. Battery powered light. Batteries. June Storage Goal: First aid kit - should include scissors, knife, thermometer, measuring cup, medicine dropper, hot water bottle, triangular bandages, soap, matches, razor blades, needles, safety pins, adhesive tape, elastic bandages, paper bags, gauze bandages, bicarbonate of soda, Ipecac syrup (induces vomiting), ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, calamine lotion (insect bites and sunburn), rubbing alcohol, diarrhea remedy, antibiotic ointment, first aid instruction book, prescription medication, waterproof matches. 72 hour kit: Container for holding kit. Large garbage cans with wheels OR backpack for each family member recommended. Find a place in your home that is easily accessible for storing the kit. You need to be able to grab it at a moment's notice to leave your home. Note: Your first aid kit is also part of your 72 hour kit. Note: Your 72 hour kit is also part of your general storage, but your general storage CANNOT be part of your 72 hour kit. July Storage Goal:

50 pounds sugar or honey per person. 10 - #l0 cans (35 pounds total) powdered milk per person. 2 toothbrushes per person. Toothpaste. Mouthwash. Infant needs-formula, baby food, diapers, Tylenol, etc. 72 hour kit:

Prepare blankets (the silver foil ones). Gather items to entertain your family and include in kit; UNO cards, coloring books and crayons, x-stitch kit, etc. Be sure to include paper

and pencils. Camp stove or portable BBQ and fuel. Mosquito repellant. $25.00 cash. August Storage goal:

l00 quarts fruit and vegetables per person. 24 pints jam or jelly per person. Feminine needs. School supplies. Pet supplies. 72 hour kit:

l can tuna per person. l can pork and beans per person. l/2 pound dried milk per person. 2 packets hot chocolate mix per person (or l large can per family). 2 instant soup packets per person (these should be rotated every year). Disposable plates, cups bowls, and flatware. Pet supplies - be sure to include dishes, leash, and extra water. September Storage Goal:

l0 - #10 cans (35 pounds total) powdered milk per person. 25 pounds canned or dried potatoes per person. 50 quarts fruit or tomato juice per person. 72 hour kit:

l pound dried fruit or trail mix per person (can use fruit leather). l package soda crackers per person (4 per box). l package graham crackers per person (4 per box). 2 liters tomato or orange juice per person (Note: these items will be rotated every 6 months--see March). October Storage goal:

50 cans of soup, stew or chili per person. 10 pounds of cheese per person. Shaving supplies. Dish soap. 72 hour kit:

4 granola bars per person. 2 sticks beef jerky per person. l package chewing gum per person. Hard candies or lollipops - at least l2 per person (note these items will be rotated every 6 months-- see April). Check batteries for light and radio. Replace if needed. November Storage Goal:

l00 pounds wheat per person. l #10 can juice mix with vitamin C per person. Hand/shower soap. Light bulbs. At least one month prescription ahead for all doctor prescribed medication. 72 hour kit:

Soap. Toothbrushes and toothpaste. Infant needs. Feminine needs. Disinfectant. Aluminum foil. December Storage Goal:

40 pounds dried beans per person. Matches. Candles. Batteries. 72 hour kit:

Garbage bags. Candles. Matches. Can opener

Emergency Water Storage

By Vicki Tate A couple of months ago I met a very interesting gentleman via the telephone who is on the President's committee for dealing with disasters. He goes into areas around the country after earthquakes, hurricanes, tornadoes, etc. have struck. As we were talking, he said that the coverage you see on TV doesn't reflect many of the realities of the situation. One of the specific things he mentioned was water typically going sold for $5 a gallon during the aftermath. Any of us who've thought much about emergency preparedness realize that one of the most crucial items to store is water. The "how-to's" of water storage is one of the questions I'm asked most often. Fourteen gallons of water per person is the suggested amount to store for a 2 week emergency situation. One thing to note is that this amount is enough for subsidence purposes only, 2 qts. for drinking and 2 qts. for cleaning and bathing purposes a day. When you consider that a person normally uses in excess of 140 gallons of water per day for drinking, bathing, laundry, dishes, watering lawns, etc. this isn't a lot of water. If you have the room to store more you probably will want to do so. The easiest way to store the bulk of your water is in 55 gallon, polyethylene (plastic) water drums. These can be obtained from most food storage companies or from local container companies found in the yellow pages. It is important that you use only food grade, good quality containers. Many times you can get food grade containers from companies that distribute beverages or syrups. If you clean them well, they can provide a good container that costs considerably less. One word of caution, however, often the taste or odor of the previous contents has leached into the plastic and over time may reintroduced to your water. If you plan to use previously used containers make sure that what it had in it before is something you wouldn't mind tasting or smelling in your water. Most water containers come in 5 gallon, 15 gallon or 55 gallon sizes. I always suggest that a family stores between two and six of these smaller containers along with their 55 gal. drums. This is a prudent suggestion in situations where you might

need to transport water, in the normal course of events or in a situation where your normal water source might be disrupted, such as after an earthquake, hurricane, etc., and you might have to go to a secondary water source such as a water truck, stream, etc. to refill. Water weighs approximately 8 lbs. per gallon. Fifty- five gallon drums are much too heavy to handle (440 lbs.) and awkward. Smaller containers don't hold enough water and would require too many trips, especially if you have to go on foot. Five 15 gallon containers are more practical and can easily be put into a wheelbarrow or child's wagon and wheeled to and from an area. Two-liter pop bottles make a good container for additional water storage and cost nothing if you save them and fill them with water as you empty them. To economize many people are tempted to use empty milk jugs, but don't plan to store water in these for more than 3-4 months. They are bio-degradable and will break down within 6 months. Not only may you loose your water, but if they are stored near food or other items, they may damage them. Heavy containers should always be stored close to ground level and secured to prevent breakage or possible injury in the event of earthquake, etc. Be sure to store your water away from any harmful chemicals or objectionable smelling products. Culinary water (tap water) is what is usually stored for long term storage. If you have a clean, opaque container where the light cannot get through and your water is bacteria-free when you store it you probably don't need to treat it further. Under these conditions the water actually gets more pure as it is stored. However, for most of us there is no guarantee that our culinary water is bacteria-free and most of us prefer to treat our water in some way as a precaution as we store it. Several methods have traditionally been used to purify water for long term water storage: Two percent Tincture of Iodine -- To use this add 12 drops per gallon of water. Note: pregnant or nursing women or people with thyroid problems should not drink water with iodine. Chlorine Bleach -- Household bleach can also be used. This should contain a 5.25% solution of sodium hypochlorite without soap additives or phosphates. Use 1/8 teaspoon (about 5-8 drops) per gallon of water. Most of us have used one of these methods to treat our water over the

years. Both are inexpensive and are effective methods of killing bacteria. I have always preferred the iodine method myself. The one drawback, however, is that both may have negative health effects if used for long periods of time. As noted above, you have to be careful with iodine and chlorine. For years they have been associated with many possible health problems. I was introduced to a product a couple of years ago that I now prefer to use instead because it is an excellent water purifier, but it also has many excellent medicinal properties. It is a stabilized oxygen called Ion that is very effective in killing all harmful bacteria without any of the harmful health affects associated with chlorine or iodine. In fact, it is very healthy. For long term storage add 20 drops of Ion per gallon of water. One bottle will purify two 55 gallon drums. It is also excellent for your emergency packs (72 hr kits). It is small and light weight (2.33 oz.) but extremely effective. It kills all harmful bacteria including giardia, cholera, dysentery, etc. within 2 1/2 minutes, but it also doubles medicinally, having many healing properties. You are welcome to write me if you would like more information on it. Studies show that if water is bacteria-free and is stored in clean containers it will stay safe for several years. It is a good idea, however, to periodically check your water for purity and taste. And every few years it's a good idea to change it. One of the things that affects the taste of water is it "going flat". This occurs because of the oxidation that takes place as it sits. You can improve the taste by pouring the water back and fourth between containers to aerate it or by beating it with a hand egg beater. You also may want to store some flavorings such as fruit drink powders, kool-aid, etc. to add to your water if you find the taste objectionable. One of the other benefits of Ion is the oxygen remains suspended maintaining its good taste for much longer periods of time. Remember also that you have several sources of water already in your home that can be tapped in an emergency such as your hot water heater, toilet tanks (don't use water from a tank that contains colored disinfectant. It is poisonous.), water pipes, ice in the freezer, etc. Water is relatively inexpensive to store and certainly not difficult to do - but certainly the time to store it is now. Water that we take so for granted when things are normal, in an emergency becomes absolutely critical. This is an item you can't afford to overlook in your preparedness preparations.

Top 100 Items to Disappear First During a National Emergency 1. Generators (Good ones cost dearly. Gas storage, risky. Noisy...target of thieves; maintenance etc.) 2. Water Filters/Purifiers 3. Portable Toilets 4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 - 12 months to become dried, for home uses. 5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps (First Choice: Buy CLEAR oil. If scarce, stockpile ANY!) 6. Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much. 7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats & Slingshots. 8. Hand-can openers, & hand egg beaters, whisks. 9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugar 10. Rice - Beans - Wheat 11. Vegetable Oil (for cooking) Without it food burns/must be boiled etc.,) 12. Charcoal, Lighter Fluid (Will become scarce suddenly) 13. Water Containers (Urgent Item to obtain.) Any size. Small: HARD CLEAR PLASTIC ONLY - note - food grade if for drinking. 16. Propane Cylinders (Urgent: Definite shortages will occur.) 17. Survival Guide Book. 18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. (Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult.) 19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula. ointments/aspirin, etc. 20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry) 21. Cookstoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene) 22. Vitamins 23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder (Urgent: Small canister use is dangerous without this item)

24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products. 25. Thermal underwear (Tops & Bottoms) 26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets, Wedges (also, honing oil) 27. Aluminum Foil Reg. & Heavy Duty (Great Cooking and Barter Item) 28. Gasoline Containers (Plastic & Metal) 29. Garbage Bags (Impossible To Have Too Many). 30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, Paper Towels 31. Milk - Powdered & Condensed (Shake Liquid every 3 to 4 months) 32. Garden Seeds (Non-Hybrid) (A MUST) 33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST) 34. Coleman's Pump Repair Kit 35. Tuna Fish (in oil) 36. Fire Extinguishers (or..large box of Baking Soda in every room) 37. First aid kits 38. Batteries (all sizes...buy furthest-out for Expiration Dates) 39. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies 40. Big Dogs (and plenty of dog food) 41. Flour, yeast & salt 42. Matches. {"Strike Anywhere" preferred.) Boxed, wooden matches will go first 43. Writing paper/pads/pencils, solar calculators 44. Insulated ice chests (good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime.) 45. Workboots, belts, Levis & durable shirts 46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, "No. 76 Dietz" Lanterns 47. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (jot down ideas, feelings, experience; Historic Times) 48. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels) 49. Men's Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers, etc

50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient) 51. Fishing supplies/tools 52. Mosquito coils/repellent, sprays/creams 53. Duct Tape 54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes 55. Candles 56. Laundry Detergent (liquid) 57. Backpacks, Duffel Bags 58. Garden tools & supplies 59. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies 60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc. 61. Bleach (plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite) 62. Canning supplies, (Jars/lids/wax) 63. Knives & Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel 64. Bicycles...Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc 65. Sleeping Bags & blankets/pillows/mats 66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered) 67. Board Games, Cards, Dice 68. d-con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer 69. Mousetraps, Ant traps & cockroach magnets 70. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks) 71. Baby wipes, oils, waterless & Antibacterial soap (saves a lot of water) 72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc. 73. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave) 74. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels) 75. Soysauce, vinegar, bullions/gravy/soupbase 76. Reading glasses 77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers) 78. "Survival-in-a-Can" 79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens 80. Boy Scout Handbook, / also Leaders Catalog 81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit (MANCO) 82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky

83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts 84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras) 85. Lumber (all types) 86. Wagons & carts (for transport to and from) 87. Cots & Inflatable mattress's 88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc. 89. Lantern Hangers 90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws,, nuts & bolts 91. Teas 92. Coffee 93. Cigarettes 94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc,) 95. Paraffin wax 96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc. 97. Chewing gum/candies 98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing) 99. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs 100. Livestock Are You Prepared? Can you answer YES to each of these questions, or do you need to work on them for you home? 1. Has your family rehearsed fire escape routes from your home? , 2. Does your family know what to do before, during and after an earthquake or other emergency situation? 3. Do you have heavy objects hanging over beds that can fall during an earthquake? 4. Do you have access to an operational flashlight in every occupied

bedroom? (use of candles is not recommended unless you are sure there is no leaking gas) 5. Do you keep shoes near your bed to protect your feet against broken glass? 6. If a water line was ruptures during an earthquake, do you know how to shut off the main water line to your house? 7. Can this water valve be turned off by hand wit out the use of a tool? Do you have a tool if one is needed? 8. Do you know where the main gas shut-off valve to your house is located? 9. It you smell gas, do you know how and would you be able to shut off this valve? 10. Gas valves usually cannot be turned off by hand. Is there a tool near your valve? 11. Would you be able to safely restart your furnace when gas is safely available? 12. Do you have working smoke alarms in the proper places to warn you of fire? Carbon Monoxide alarms? 13. In case of a minor fire, do you have a fire extinguisher that you know how to operate? (The fire department will test yours for free) 14. Do you have duplicate keys and copies of important insurance and other papers stored outside your home? 15. Do you have a functional emergency radio to receive emergency information?

16. If you and your family had to evacuate your home, have you identified an outside meeting place? If an emergency lasted for 3 days (72 hours) before help was available to you and your family 17. Would you have sufficient food? 18. Would you have the means to cook food without gas and electricity? 19. Would you have sufficient water for drinking, cooking, and sanitary needs? 20. Do you have access to a 72-hour evacuation kit? 21. Would you be able to carry or transport these kits? 22. Have you established an out-of-state contact? 23. Do you have a first aid kit in your home and in each car? 24. Do you have work gloves and some tools for minor rescue and cleanup? 25. Do you have emergency cash on hand? (During emergencies banks and ATM machines are closed.) 26. Without electricity and gas do you have means to heat at least part of your house? (Think of how to cover broken windows) 27. If you need medications, do you have a month's supply on hand? 28. Do you have a plan for toilet facilities if there is an extended water shortage? 29. Do you have a supply of food, clothing, and fuel where appropriate: For 6 months? For a Year? How do you live without electricity?

By Anita Evangelista It's going to happen. Sooner or later, the power will go off. It could be a sudden ice storm that brings down the power lines. It could result from other severe weather such as a tornado or hurricane, or from a disruption caused by faulty power company equipment, or even something as simple as a tree branch falling on your wires. The effect is the same: everything electrical in your home stops working. For most modern Americans, the loss of power means the complete loss of normalcy. They do not know how to function without it. How do you cook a meal if your gas stove has an electric ignition? How do your children find their way to the bathroom at night if the light switches don't work? How do you keep warm if your wood heat is moved through ducts by an electric fan? What do you do with a freezer full of expensive meat? How do you find out what is happening in your area with the TV and radio silent? What will you drink if your water comes from a system dependent on electrical pumps? We'll look at these issues. What you can do now to reduce problems when the power goes off, will be the focus of this article.

Remember, too, that an important principle in all preparations is that you maintain as much "normalcy" in your lifestyle as possible. For example, if television is part of your relaxation and unwinding process, don't assume you can easily do without it. The closer you can keep your daily routines to "the norm" for your family, the more easily you can deal with power outages. There are five primary areas that are easily disrupted if the power goes off. In order of importance, they are: light, water, cooking, heating/cooling, and communication. Light Some folks rise with the sun and go to bed when the sun set. This would probably have been a pretty healthy way to live, if everyone else in the world did the same thing. Our children's bathroom needs didn't stop when the sun went down. Midnight raids on the pantry for crackers and peanut butter turned into fumblefests. Sometimes the barking of our livestock guardian dogs meant strange predators were too close for comfort, somewhere in the countryside darkness. Light is the most important item on our Big Five

list because without light we are not able to efficiently carry on the other activities of daily living. The most simple and familiar form of emergency lighting is a flashlight. Please have one for each member of your family, with fresh batteries, plus three extra sets of batteries for each flashlight. That should be your minimum "safe" number. Store your flashlight where you can quickly reach it in the dark nightunder the mattress of your bed, for example. Each child old enough to walk should also have his or her own flashlight, and be taught how to use it. Consider a small 2-AA battery flashlight such as a Mini Mag. Or one which uses LED bulbs. These cost about $10 each, give an excellent clear white light (LED light is more blue). They are easily portable in a pocket, purse or belt holder. A very common battery used in these devices is also the AA, so your life will be simplified if you stick primarily to one type of battery and don't have to buy various odd sizes for different needs. Batteries wear out rapidly if your flashlights are used continuously:

figure two changes per week of regular use. Alkaline batteries last four times longer, give a more powerful light, but cost more than regular batteries. Most rechargeable batteries are suitable for flashlights, but you need to arrange for charging while the power is out. Recharging can be done by means of a charger plugged into your car's cigarette lighter outlet. These DC-powered rechargers can be found at auto supply stores and at Radio Shack for about $30 or less. Solar rechargers work slower but produce the same results for about $30. Candles are a source of heat and light. They often can be found at garage sales and thrift stores. Some outlet stores like Big Lots or Dollar Tree have new candles for cheap. Also Walmart. We have a cardboard box weighing 35 pounds that is filled with various sizes and shapes of candles. This would be about a year's supply for my family. We've acquired them gradually, every time we found them inexpensively. They never go bad! Candles are easy to use and familiar. Most of us can adjust to using candles easily. The light is soft and wavering. You'll need at least three candles if you hope to read by the light. If you have small children or indoor pets, care must be taken

where you place them. Metal candle holders that hang on walls are probably the safest. Remember to place a heat proof plate underneath the holder to catch drippings. Save your wax drippings, too, to make more candles later. Oil (kerosene) lamps produce a steadier light than candles. Department store oil lamps cost about $10 each and come in attractive styles. Lamp oil is about $3 per half galon. A typical lamp will burn one to two cups of oil per night, so you would use about two liters each week per lamp. The light from these lamps is not quite adequate to read by unless it is placed very close, and the light does waver a little. A single lamp can provide enough light in a room so that you don't bump into furniture, but two or three may be needed to provide good functional light. As with candles, if you have children, these lamps need to be placed securely and out of reach. The smell of burning oil (kerosene) can get heavy in a closed room so keep ventilation open. Keep an extra set of wicks ($1) and chimneys ($5) in case of breakage. The Cadillac of oil lamps is the Aladdin Lamp. These run

from $60 up. The light given off is as good as a 60-watt bulb, clear, and unwavering. You can read or do needlepoint by the light of one lamp. These burn the same oil or kerosene as typical lamps, but because they burn hotter, there is much less odor. Position these lamps so that they cannot accidentally be overturned, and so that the intense heat coming from the chimney won't ignite something. Purchase an additional "mantle" (the light-giving portion of the lamp - $3), and chimney ($15), as backups. Solar powered lamps ($80-$120) are typically small fluorescents, and can be run off of battery systems. It may take more than one day of bright sunlight to recharge these lamps, so you may need several-one to use, while others are recharging. The light is white and clear, good for area-lighting, and rather difficult to read by. Have extra fluorescent bulbs on hand, too. Be sure to to store plenty of matches. Aim N Flame or similar long reach lighters are incredibly useful for lighting candles or lanterns. Water If you live in a town or city, the power cut will not immediately affect your

water pressure, but it could affect the purification process. If your water comes from an electrically-powered home water pump, your water stops flowing the moment the power does. Either way, with the loss of power comes the loss of water (or, at least, clean water). Clean water is so crucial to our survival that it should be a special concern in your preparations. The easiest way to guarantee quality water is to store it right now. The important question is: how much? Both Red Cross and FEMA suggest a minimum of one gallon per day per person. This is an absolute minimum, and covers only your real drinking and cooking needs; bathing is out of the question. The typical American currently uses around 70 gallons a day. In a short-term emergency situation, only drinking and cooking water is crucial, but eventually daily consumption would include bathing and clothes washing. And this presumes that the family has prepared a sanitary "outhouse," so flushing isn't needed. In that case, 5-10 gallons per day per person would be a more reasonable amount, with a weekly communal bath becoming the routine. One to three-gallon jugs, direct from the supermarket, run

about 60 cents to $2; these store easily under cabinets and counters. A few in the freezer will help keep things cold if the power goes off. You can also store water inexpensively in large, covered plastic trash cans; they hold 36 to 55 gallons each. Replace the water every two weeks, so it will be ready in case the power goes off. Kiddie swimming pools also make excellent above-ground holding tanks. Buy a pool cover, as well, to keep bugs out. Farm supply stores often sell "water tanks" made of heavy grade plastic. These can be partially buried underground to keep water cooler and less susceptible to mold and bacteria. Plan to filter and purify the water before use. Collecting water can be done by hand with 5-gallon plastic buckets if you live near a river or stream (it must be filtered and purified before use). You can also divert rainwater off your roof, through the rain gutters and downspouts into plastic trashcans. A drilled well with an electric pump can be retrofitted with a plastic hand-pump. These systems sit side-byside with your electric pump down the same well-shaft, and can be put to use any time the power is off. Typical delivery is about 2 gallons

per minute, and pumping strength varies from 11 to 20 pounds-a good but not exhausting workout. Water can be purified. Fifteen drops of bleach (plain unscented) per gallon of water, or cup of hydrogen peroxide (3%) per gallon will also destroy bacteria. Twenty minutes of a hard, rolling boil will, too. Bleach is effective against both cholera and typhoid and has kept American water supplies safe for decades. The chlorine taste can be easily removed with a charcoal filter system (such as Brita Pitcher or Pur brands for home use, about $30). British Berkefeld water filters, along with various other brands, are more expensive ($150-$250), but can filter and purify water indefinitely. Both eliminate bacteria, contaminants, and offflavors. We've used a "Big Berkey" for four or five years, and it is a very reliable gravity-fed system. When shopping for filters, if they only offer "better taste" they won't protect you from bacterial contaminants. Noah Water System's travel companion will work great in case of a power outage, or your water supply becomes undrinkable. The Trekker is a portable water purificationn unit. With the Trekker you can get

water from any river, lake, or pond. It's small enough to carry like a briefcase. Cooking In times of crisis, a hot meal goes a long way toward soothing the day's troubles. The simplest way to heat a meal is the Boy Scout method: a couple of bricks or rocks set around a small outdoor fire, with the bean can propped over the flames. It's low cost, and it works. However, the cook doesn't have much control over the outcome. Outdoor cooking of all kinds, including grilling and barbecuing, all work during emergency situations, provided you have the charcoal or wood (and matches!) needed to get the heat going. These are familiar methods, too, so family members don't have to make a huge leap to accept these foods. It's difficult to cook much more than meats and a few firm vegetables over open heat like this, though. Also, never use these devices indoors, as they emit carbon monoxide. Propane and butane camp stoves are so much like ordinary home stoves that there is no difference in the cooking results. Portable RV 2burner propane stoves are often available used-mine cost $5 at a

garage sale-and can even do pressure canning because the heat is consistent and reliable. A typical 18-gallon propane cylinder, the kind used for barbeques, costs around $30 new, and a propane fillup is about $7. This will last for nearly a month of daily use. You'll also need a feeder hose and pressure regulator for the stove, which can be prepared by your propane dealer for $20 or so. General camp stoves (around $65 at department stores) operate on propane in a small 1-pound cylinder $3). A cylinder lasts for around 8 hours of cooking. You can also find camp stoves that will cook off of unleaded gasoline, and there are some that are "multi-fuel," using either kerosene or gasolinehandy in case of a shortage of one fuel or the other. Use outdoors or on a covered porch to prevent carbon monoxide buildup in your home. Solar cooking is another option, if you have plenty of sunlight and someone who is willing to adjust the cooker to face the sun every half hour or so. A solar oven need be no more fancy than a set of nested cardboard boxes painted flat black on the inside with tempura colors, a sheet of window glass, and some aluminum foil glued

to cardboard panels. Total cost for this, if you can scrounge leftover glass and cardboard, is about $1. Keeping foods cool if the power goes out can be as simple as looking for shade, even under a tree. Some Ozarkers have partially buried old broken freezers in the shade of backyard trees, storing grains and winter vegetables inside. During the winter, your parked car will stay at the same temperature as the outside air at night -so you can store frozen goods there safely. During the daylight hours, the car interior will heat up, though, if it's in the sun. Park it in the shade of the house, or cover the windows and roof with a blanket to keep the interior cool. What about that freezer full of expensive meat if the power goes off? First step is to cover the freezer with blankets to help retain the cold. Then, find dry ice (if everyone else in your town hasn't already bought out the supply). Blanket coverings will keep a full freezer frozen for two days, and the addition of dry ice will prolong that to three or four days. If power stays off, it's time to eat and time to can the meat remaining. Canning low-acid foods like meat calls for a pressure canner ($90), canning jars ($6 for 12), a source of consistent heat

(like a propane RV stove), and some skill. In considering your time requirements, it took me two days of steady canning to put a 230pound pig into jars. Each quart jar holds 3 pounds of meat. Heating and cooling It is sensible, and reasonable, to prepare well in advance of season changes. Putting in supplies a year ahead of time is a traditional farm practice, and it gives a cushion of safety against uncertain conditions. New wood heaters run from $100 to several thousands, depending on materials, craftsmanship, and beauty. Better stoves hold heat longer and may have interior baffles that let you use less wood to produce more heat. Even so, the most basic metal-drumturned-stove also works to heat a room or a house. Heating a 3-bedroom home that is moderately insulated will use about 8-12 cords of wood throughout the winter. The size of a face cord typically will be about 4' high x 8' long x 16" pieces. Prices will vary, depending on the region and type of wood. Hardwoods, such as oak and walnut, and fruitwoods like apple and pear, burn better and longer than softwoods like poplar. Don't use resinous woods, such as the pines, cedars, and spruces for the

main heating-only as firestarters-because they burn too hot and fast and generate creosote. Better home insulation and better quality hardwoods will decrease the amount of wood you need to use. If you plan to secure and cut your own firewood, be willing to acquire a good-quality chainsaw-any that cost below $200 will only give you grief. Keep an extra chain on hand. Use safety precautions, too: wear ear and eye protectors, heavy gloves, and don't chainsaw alone. Cutting your own wood will decrease your heating costs significantly, but increase your labor. It typically takes us a full week of constant work to put up a winter's worth of wood. Propane heaters that don't need venting to outdoors are a relatively new product. A plain one ($200) can be mounted on the wall in the home's main room, or more fancy models that look like builtin fireplaces complete with fake logs ($450) are available. You will need a propane tank, regulator, and appropriate copper lines, but these will all be installed by your propane company for a small charge. Propane has varied widely in cost from year to year, but typically runs around $0.95 to $1.30 per gallon.

Kerosene heaters ($120) are freestanding units that burn kerosene to provide heat. These are best used in areas that can be easily ventilated, because of the potential for buildup of carbon monoxide. Kerosene has a strong odor, as well. Kerosene costs about the same per galon as gasoline. One of the most efficient ways to heat is something else we have forgotten in the past 50 years-close off rooms that are not being used. If doors aren't available, you can hang curtains in doorways (or even tack up a blanket, in a pinch), and keep your heat restricted to the room you are actually in. In an emergency situation, you can curtain up a room and set up a tent-like "den" for the family to snuggle in under blankets. Body heat alone will keep the den's interior comfortable. Cooling a residence during a hot summer requires just as much thought and advance planning as winter heating does. Battery and solarpowered fans help keep air moving, windows can be shaded by fastgrowing vines and pole beans, and-planning way ahead-fastgrowing trees like poplars can be planted on the house's south side to shade

the yard. In areas where wind blows routinely in the summer, you can soak a sheet, wring it out, and hang it in front of a breezy window. The air passing through the window is cooled as it moves against the wet sheet, and helps to cool the house. Remember that heat rises, so make it easy for too-hot air to escape from the attic and upper floors by opening windows and vents. Communications In a time of distress, keeping in contact with family and knowing about local and national situations is important to maintaining both continuity and confidence. In general, telephone systems are on a different system than the electrical power grid, but they can be disrupted if there are earth movements or as the result of terrorist activities. During the Loma Prieta earthquake in 1989, we kept informed about the damages by watching a 4-inch black and white TV set (bought used for $25) that was plugged into our car battery through the cigarette lighter. At night, we heard reports from the BBC via a 4-AA battery

powered shortwave radio ($70 from Radio Shack). I consider these two devices-shortwave and TV-the required minimum communication/ information devices during a crisis, especially if the phone system is down. Satellite internet hookups, using a battery-powered laptop, could be an excellent communication tool, both for accessing news and for staying in touch with friends and colleagues by email. Citizens Band (CB) radios are excellent tools, as well. These portable devices can be carried with you into the field and used to stay in contact with neighbors and family when you are away from the house. Basic models run $60-you'll need at least two-and ones with greater ranges and features are more costly. They'll run on 8 to 10 AA batteries. "Family Radios" are FM-band devices that have a short range, about mile ($60 for a pair). These are handy for keeping family in contact during outings, when traveling in a caravan, or when one member needs to go out to the barn during a storm. They run on AA or AAA batteries. If your family relaxes in the evenings with a video, plan to

continue doing that. Acquire a battery-powered TV/VCR combination, and make sure you have enough power sources to keep that going for at least two weeks. (If things get dicey, you can wean off the system in two weeks.) A cassette player or CD player with external speakers can provide relaxation and entertainment, and they run off of AA batteries as well. Children have difficulty adjusting to sudden changes in their environment, so if you expect them to play board games if the power goes out, they should play board games now. Keep routines consistent, arising at the usual time in the morning and going to bed as you have in the past. Prepare familiar meals with foods everyone enjoys. Have "fun foods" and goodies on hand. Remember to reach out to your neighbors and older folks who live nearby, and provide extras to help them, as well. Use the knowledge you've gained, and your experience with nonelectric living, to make your neighborhood a more secure and adaptable place.
Recommended Items To Include In A Basic Emergency Supply Kit:

Water, one gallon of water per person per day for at least three days, for drinking and sanitation Food, at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food Battery-powered or hand crank radio and a NOAA Weather Radio with tone alert and extra batteries for both Flashlight and extra batteries First aid kit Whistle to signal for help Dust mask, to help filter contaminated air and plastic sheeting and duct tape to shelter-in-place Moist towelettes, garbage bags and plastic ties for personal sanitation Wrench or pliers to turn off utilities Can opener for food (if kit contains canned food) Local maps Cell phone with chargers, inverter or solar charger

Additional Items To Consider Adding To An Emergency Supply Kit:

Prescription medications and glasses Infant formula and diapers Pet food and extra water for your pet Important family documents such as copies of insurance policies, identification and bank account records in a waterproof, portable container Cash or traveler's checks and change Important family documents such as copies of insurance policies, identification and bank account records in a waterproof, portable container. You can use the Emergency Financial First Aid Kit (EFFAK) - PDF, 277Kb) developed by Operation Hope, FEMA and Citizen Corps to help you organize your information. Emergency reference material such as a first aid book or information from www.ready.gov. Sleeping bag or warm blanket for each person. Consider additional bedding if you live in a cold-weather climate. Complete change of clothing including a long sleeved shirt, long pants and sturdy shoes. Consider additional clothing if you live in a cold-weather climate. Household chlorine bleach and medicine dropper When diluted nine parts water to one part bleach, bleach can be used as a

disinfectant. Or in an emergency, you can use it to treat water by using 16 drops of regular household liquid bleach per gallon of water. Do not use scented, color safe or bleaches with added cleaners. Fire Extinguisher Matches in a waterproof container Feminine supplies and personal hygiene items Mess kits, paper cups, plates and plastic utensils, paper towels Paper and pencil Books, games, puzzles or other activities for children

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