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Contents
4. 6. 8. 10 12 14 16. 18 20. 22. 24 31 37 42 Interview Take in some History The Great Outdoors The Great Indoors Golfs and Spas Glorious Gardens Unseen Normandy Markets and Shopping Family Outings New for 2011 Tips from the locals June Listings July Listings August Listings

Welcome
IT is my pleasure to wish a warm welcome to our Englishspeaking visitors and to say hello to their compatriots who live in our beautiful region, whether it be all-year round or only for a few months. This is a very special year for Normandy as we are celebrating the region's 1100th birthday with a full programme of events throughout the five departments of the area, Calvados, the Eure, the Manche, the Orne and Seine Maritime. Please do join us in these anniversary festivities! This summer will be even more full of activities with concerts, markets, sporting activities and exhibitions from June to September. Don't forget that Normandy does not go into hibernation after the summer months but offers activities all year round. Visitors, as well as local residents, will be able to take advantage of the incredible richness of our historical region. Whether you wish to follow in William the Conqueror's footsteps or visit the D-Day landing beaches, there is an outing in Normandy to suit all the family. There are many sites and monuments open to visit, not to mention innumerable towns and villages that are full of character. Then there is our stunning seaside both on the Channel and the Atlantic coasts, plus rivers and lakes for those of you staying in the magnificent Norman countryside. Welcome to Normandy and we hope that you truly enjoy your stay so that we can look forward to seeing you back in Normandy in the very near future.
Conseiller rgional de Basse-Normandie, N 5e vice-prsident de la Rgion Basse-Normandie, p N membre de la Commission permanente

Published by English Language Media, publishers of The Connexion newspaper, 38 Rue Grimaldi, 98000 Monaco Tel: 0800 91 77 56 www.elm.mc contact@elm.mc Directrice de la publication: Sarah Smith Due care and attention is taken in the compilation of this guide. However, event programmes can change so it is advisable to check with organisers before setting out to attend. The publisher cannot accept liability in respect of incorrect information or programme changes. Reproduction in whole or part of any text without prior written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. Guide published May 18, 2011
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INTERVIEW
Normandy enjoyed a boost in the number of foreign visitors last year for the first time in more than five years. The director of the regions tourist board, Jean-Louis Laville, says a packed schedule of 2011 events means he is optimistic that this year will be even better.
How are the preparations going for this summers 1,100th birthday celebrations? Its an exceptional year for us and its obviously a big event. There will be lots of events and exhibitions all over the region. There has been a strong level of interest from all the tourism leaders. We launched an appeal for ideas last autumn, and 260 groups put in applications to organise events. We have accepted 220 of them and we are now preparing the promotion. We know lots of British tourists come here in summer, so we are preparing the Happy Birthday Normandie brochure in English but we had a good 2010 when things started picking up slowly for the first time in a long time. We are convinced that there are lots of people in Britain who like Normandy. We are making a big effort to give people new reasons to come here. What are the trends as far as accommodation is concerned? There is a strong English presence in the region all year round. Fewer tourists are staying in our hotels and campsites, but more British people are buying holiday homes and are coming here frequently. The number of second homes bought by Britons grew by 40 per cent between 2003 and 2009. What can be done to encourage people who are passing through Normandy from the ferry terminals to the west of France to stop off and explore the region? Its not as big a problem as you might think. We carried out a big study on the British who came to Normandy via our ports over the past year and a half. We found that lots of the people who arrive in Normandy stay here, or spend at least some time here. Some people go directly to the west of France, but the large part either spend their whole time in Normandy or spend several nights in the region while travelling. Are there any particular areas of tourism in Normandy that you feel need to be developed more? Another finding from our survey was that there were a lot more British people aged 35-44 than we thought. We knew that our clientele included older people who visit often, but the study revealed there was also a large proportion of families with children who come to discover Normandy. We are going to develop the theme of family activities in Normandy and things to do by the sea. It is something that deserves more attention. Our big effort this year is on the birthday celebrations, but obviously there is an enormous number of other things happening all over Normandy. Its not just the big events: we forget that in Normandy there are lots of little things, like the markets everywhere and the little local events. We need to explain that Normandy is not just the big landmarks but smaller day-to-day experiences, such as parks and gardens. Golf for us is very important. We are making a

The name Happy Birthday Normandie wasn't chosen by chance. It's a nod to our British friends.

as well as French so that all the British tourists in Normandy can make the most of these events, which will be happening all over. The name Happy Birthday Normandie wasnt chosen by chance. Its a nod to our British friends. Is Britain still the top source of tourism to Normandy? Yes, Britain is priority number one. We lost a lot of customers over the space of a few years. Its certain that there are fewer British than there were six years ago in our hotels and campsites,

big effort to promote golf because there are a lot of Britons who like golf. We have some very good courses. Some are very well known, and some deserve to be better known. What are your forecasts for tourism this summer? I dont make forecasts. Its difficult to predict in tourism. We had a good year last year with the return of international customers. That improvement was like a ray of sunshine for us - it was very satisfying. There is no reason why the British shouldnt keep coming back - and we are already

Photo: chispita_666

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Photo: Arrow Studio Fotolia.com

Our studies show that the British love us. For them, Normandy is the ideal French destination with its landscape and history. Cuisine is also a very important aspect and a very powerful attraction. Good products, small markets or even the local bakery are as important as fancy restaurants.

Families make up a significant proportion of the British visitors to Normandy, a recent poll shows preparing our marketing plan for 2012. We are optimistic because the British market remains the largest foreign market by far in the region and everyone is working very hard. What do British tourists look for in Normandy? All of our studies show that the British love us. For them, Normandy is the ideal French destination with its landscape and history. The British have a very extensive knowledge of Normandy and they come here all year round. They look for the French art of living and landscapes. It reminds them of 18th-century Britain, aspects of which have largely disappeared in Britain itself. We also have a historical dimension which makes us interesting: William the Conqueror, Richard I, the Second World War landings. This is our shared history. The British find in Normandy something well-preserved, very genuine, that reminds them of an old England they love. Finally, our cuisine is also a very important feature and a very powerful attraction. Good products, small markets or even the local bakery are as important as fancy restaurants. What sites are the most visited? The Mont Saint Michel abbey has more than a million visitors yearly, holding the record for the region. The sites of Second World War battles, the American cemetery in Coleville, the Etretat cliffs, Giverny gardens, the cathedrals of Rouen and Bayeux, Lisieux basilica, the Caen memorial and the Bayeux tapestry are among the other major attractions. Which other nationalities are you focusing on? We have had two priorities: the French and the British markets. Following these are Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and the United States. Generally, nearby countries have had a renewed interest in Normandy since the credit crisis of the past two or three years. People want to rediscover regions close to them and travel cheaply. We can take full advantage of this.

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HISTORY
Photo: CDT Calvados

The UK and France have had close ties for almost 1,000 years but no area of France has had such an influence on our joint history as Normandy. This summer is the ideal time to explore the regions rich history, as Normandy is putting on a wide range of events to celebrate the 1,100th anniversary of the signature of the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte, which created the duchy of Normandy.

Historic, the D-Day beaches

amed after the Viking warriors, the Norsemen (men from the north), Normandy was created in 911 when the French king, Charles the Simple, conceded the region to the Viking chief Rollo. The Vikings established a harmonious relationship with local people, integrating into society and bringing with them a regime of order that crossed the Channel in 1066 with William the Conqueror and the Battle of Hastings. The region celebrates the historic agreement this year with the Happy Birthday Normandie festival, with more than 200 events planned in towns and villages throughout Normandy until October. The agenda includes medieval fairs and activities organised within the regions abbeys and other historic sites. See our listings pages for some of the highlights or, for last minute changes, check the official site at www.happybirthdaynormandie.com. The chic Calvados seaside resort of Deauville, which celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, is leading the 1,100th anniversary events with a different activity every week throughout the summer season.

for tour operators and groups, keen to discover its medieval landmarks and relics. One of the best ways to take in the historical sights is to follow the abbey route (la Route des Abbayes), an itinerary drawn up by the tourist boards that takes in all four corners of Normandy. It starts in the Pays de Caux, around Le Havre (Seine-Maritime), before heading up the Seine valley, with a stop to admire the Abbaye de Jumiges. The ruins of this Benedictine abbey stand on a loop in the Seine, west of Rouen. Founded by St Philibert in 654, it was built by the dukes of Normandy as the region turned to Christianity, but was destroyed by the Vikings.
Open daily 9.30-19.00, entry 5. Call 02 35 37 24 02

showcase of Gothic architecture, capturing the imagination of many artists over the years.
Open daily from 9.00-19.00, except Monday mornings.

THE trail then heads down through the Eure and Orne, where you can stop off in Ses, a bishopric since the fourth century which has a beautiful Gothic cathedral. Visit on a summer night to witness the beautiful sound-andlight show, Les Musilumires.
Tickets to the evening shows are 13 for adults and 5 for children. Call the tourist office on 02 33 28 74 79 or see www.musilumieres.org

WHILE in the Rouen area, stop off to admire the citys beautiful cathedral. Taking almost 400 years to build, its a stunning

NEXT, head up to Lisieux. Pilgrims come in NEXT their thousands to the town where St Thrse lived as a child. A basilica was built after her death, based on the Sacr Coeur in Paris. The building is interesting, and strikingly sited on a hill so that it can be seen from a distance.
Call 02 31 48 18 10

A rich historical heritage

ROLLO, then William the Conqueror and Richard the Lionheart, edified castles, churches, abbeys and other architectural masterpieces that were to rank Normandy as one of the richest provinces in the kingdom. Normandy has always remained a popular destination Lisieux Basilica is based on the Sacr Coeur in Paris

Photo: Tango7174

IN Calvados, visit Caen to see the beautiful Abbaye aux Hommes and Abbaye aux Dames, both founded by William the Conqueror. In nearby Saint-Pierre-sur-Dives the abbey is marking its 1,000th anniversary with a series of concerts throughout July and August, as well as a special soundand-light display on the weekend of July 18-19.
Call the tourist office on 02 31 20 97 90

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THE route continues up to the Cotentin peninsula, and then down the Manche coastline to the most famous sight of all in the region: the Mont Saint Michel.

1066 remembered
NO trip to Normandy would be complete without a trip to see the Bayeux tapestry, which tells the story of the Norman conquest in remarkable detail. Entry is 7.80 for adults, 3.80 for over-10s and free for younger children. There is free parking nearby. The site is open daily from 9.00 to 19.00 in summer, and the organisers recommend you allow an hour and a half.

Bayeux Tapestry tells the story of the Norman conquest in remarkable detail Beaux Arts in Caen, Rouen and Le Havre. See pages 10 - 11 for full details. Open daily 9.30-18.30. Adults 6.50, children 3.80. Call 02 31 51 46 90. Visit the British war cemetery while you are in the town. The cinema-museum Arromanches 360 gives a good multimedia experience of the events of June 1944, with a 20-minute film. Open 9.4018.40 in June, July and August. Adults 4.30, children over 10 3.80. Call 02 31 22 30 30 or see www.arromanches360.com From there, drivers can follow one of two themed and signposted routes which have stop-off points along the way where information boards recount the events of June 1944. Details of the routes are available from Arromanches tourist office. A little further afield, north-west of Caen is the Mmorial de Caen which has a large collection of exhibits and video material tracing the causes and the consequences of the Second World War and the Cold War. A family pass costs 48. Open daily 9.00-19.00. Call 02 31 06 06 45 or see www.memorial-caen.fr

Normandy and art

PAINTERS over the years have loved Normandy, from home-grown talent such as Claude Monet, who was born in Le Havre and settled in Giverny, to Turner, Courbet, Renoir and Boudin. Monets gardens in Giverny are a must-visit (see pages 14-15), but you will see plenty of other pieces of art from Normandy over the years at the Muses des

The D-Day beaches

ON June 6, 1944 Nazi-occupied France was invaded by British, American, Commonwealth and Canadian troops. The Allies landed on beaches still known today by their wartime codenames. The Battle of Normandy is still commemorated today, and there are many museums, memorials and cemeteries. Look out for events on June 6 for the 67th anniversary of D-Day. Commemorations will include a large parachute display in Sainte-Mre-Eglise (Manche), with 800 American, French, British and German parachutists. Call the tourist office in SainteMre-Eglise on 02 33 21 00 33 or see www.normandiememoire.com. A good starting point to discover more about the Battle of Normandy is the Muse de la Bataille de Normandie in Bayeux (Calvados), which gives a good overview of the battle.

Photo: charlo_be

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS

HORSE ABOUT AT SUMMER SHOWS: Normandy boasts 90 riding schools and equestrian centres, including two national stud farms: the Haras du Pin in the Orne and the Haras de Saint-L in the Manche. Horse racing takes place all year round, but the summer season is especially big. The Haras du Pin was set up by Louis XIVs minister Colbert in 1665. Its breeds include percherons, Norman cobs and English thoroughbreds. Every Thursday from June 9 to September 29 the internationally renowned stud farm, known as the Versailles of Horses, treats visitors to an amazing display of dressage and show-jumping. It is also an ideal place to have a picnic.
Call 02 33 12 16 00 or see www.haras-national-du-pin.com

From open-air concerts to windsurfing, forest walks to horse-riding, there is so much happening outdoors in Normandy over the peak summer season that it can be hard to know where to start. Wherever youre based, you are never far away from nature in this region - whether its the beaches and cliffs along the coastline or the natural parks and rivers inland. Here is just a selection.
GO CANOEING: The Suisse Normande rivers are a great place for canoeing, especially the fast-flowing Orne. Canoes and kayaks can be hired from La Cambronnerie in Clcy.
Call 02 31 69 79 73.

In the Eure, the Risle river is also a popular choice for watersports. Hire a canoe or kayak from Les Castors Rislois, Pont-Audemer, 02 32 56 04 15. Other popular spots include Cond-sur-Vire (Manche), Saint-Sans (Seine-Maritime) and Pacy-sur-Eure (Eure). COOL OFF BY THE RIVERSIDE: Admire the waterfalls in the small village of Mortain in the Manche. Mortain occupies a high ridge overlooking the Slune valley, surrounded by woods. The Cance falls 20m into the Slune and the impressive feature has given birth to some prolific vegetation. The main waterfall site is well signposted. Stairs take you down to a wonderful viewpoint looking out over the falls. Follow the deep, lush gorge created by the river for more views.
Call the tourist office on 02 33 59 19 74 or see www.ville-mortain.fr

ENJOY OPEN AIR MUSIC: June 21 is the longest day of the year and also the Fte de la Musique, a major nationwide festival where thousands of free concerts spring up on street corners. It is the one night of the year when anyone can put on a performance - and the one night when noise regulations are largely ignored. Check local posters or your nearest tourist office for details. Then, from July 17 to August 20, comes the Promenades Musicales du Pays dAuge, a big open-air music festival. Look out for publicity for Musique dOrne, a similar initiative taking place in August. FOLLOW THE CIDER ROUTE: The Pays dAuge is quintessential Norman countryside, with orchards, manor houses, rolling hills and cows. The cider route links the regions main cider-making villages through a series of quiet roads and paths. Take in Cambremer and Beuvron-en-Auge and visit producers on the way. For details see page 19. WATCH VINTAGE CARS: The cars race through the streets of Normandy on June 22-26 in the sixth annual Tour de Normandie rally, which sees classic and vintage cars dating from 1900 to 1975 drive through towns and villages across Normandy on a five-day tour. Check the route at www.tourdenormandie.com TRY OUT WINDSURFING: The long, broad, sandy beaches on the coastline of Calvados and western Manche are popular with windsurfers and for sand-yachting. There are about 100 sailing schools and clubs along the coast.

Also on a horse theme, Deauvilles two racecourses offer free guided tours on race days.
Call the tourist office on 02 31 14 40 00.

Photo: coll

GET ON YOUR BIKE: Cycling is one of the best ways to take in the Normandy countryside. Each department has marked cycle paths, with maps available from tourist offices. For a leisurely, relatively flat, ride, try the forests. The area around Mortagne-au-Perche is particularly suited to mountain biking. ADMIRE THE SEINE: Climb up to the top of the Chteau Gaillard in Les Andelys (Eure) for some of the best views over the Seine valley and the surrounding countryside.
Open daily except Tuesdays, 10.00-13.00 and 14.00-18.00, entry 3. Call 02 32 54 41 93.

EXPLORE THE WILDERNESS OF CHAUSEY: Chausey archipelago is made of 365 islets at low tide, says local legend. The biggest of them, 17km away from Granville, is home to 30 people. No vehicles are allowed.
Call 02 33 91 30 03.

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maritime wetlands with extensive wildlife. The four parks are: PARC DES BOUCLES DE LA SEINENORMANDE: This park follows the path of the Seine between Rouen and Le Havre (Seine-Maritime). The flat relief makes it a popular choice for leisure cyclists. PARC DU COTENTIN ET DU BESSIN: These low-lying wetlands across the base of the Cotentin peninsula house a rich diversity of birdlife, and are a stop-off point for migrating birds. Join the trails from the information centre at Saint-Comt-du-Mont (Manche).
Call 02 33 71 65 30.

OTHER POPULAR WALKS: The footpaths along the coast between Etretat and Le Trport offer stunning views. The spectacular scenery of the Cte dAlbtre will be familiar to anyone who has seen the cliffs of Dover and the Sussex coast. For an ambitious, steep hike, head up to the Roche dOtre in Saint-Philbert-sur-Orne. This is believed to be Frances oldest mountain and there are well-signposted hiking paths, a museum and a restaurant. A track leads from the roadside to this 120m rocky precipe that offers some of the best views of the Orne valley and the Suisse Normande.
Call 02 31 59 13 13 or see www.roche-doetre.fr

Haras du Pin was set up in 1665

Photo: J.F.LEFEVRE

PARC NORMANDIE-MAINE: This is Normandys largest regional park, covering more than 2,000 square kilometres with mixed scenery marked by escarpments, forests and rolling hills as it passes through the bocage. The main information centre is in Carrouges (Orne).
Call 02 33 81 13 33 or pick up a map from the tourist office in Mortagne-au-Perche.

While in the Suisse Normande, take in the beautiful town of Thury-Harcourt, beside the Orne river, or Clcy with its hill walks and viewpoints. The Fort dEawy is a vast beech forest over 70 square km in the very top right corner of Normandy, in the Pays de Bray. The Fort dEcouves covers the eastern hills of the Orne and includes, amongst other wildlife, deer, boar and birds. The Fort dEu in the Pays de Caux (SeineMaritime) features a pair of intertwined oak and beech trees known as the bonne entente.

ENJOY A LONG COUNTRY WALK: Normandy has four major regional natural parks, so you will find yourself spoilt for choice if you are looking for a break outdoors with space and scenery. These natural environments are protected and preserved, with fabulous views of forests, valleys or

PARC RGIONAL DU PERCHE: Between the Beauce river and the bocage, this intensely rural and unspoiled stretch of countryside is very popular with ramblers.
For more information, visit the Maison du Parc in Noce (Orne) or call 02 33 85 36 36.

Chteau Gaillard, a ruined medieval castle, located 90 metres above the commune of Les Andelys overlooking the River Seine, in the Eure dpartement

Photo: Dieter Basse

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THE GREAT INDOORS

In addition to the beautiful landscapes and many outdoor activities on offer in Normandy there is also a host of music, art exhibitions and other cultural events which offer shelter on a rainy day - or just to enjoy whether the sun is shining or not. Make good use too of the many sporting facilities to keep the family occupied.
Art
Three of Normandys big cities have a Muse des Beaux Arts, each of which houses an impressive display of artwork. The Muse des Beaux Arts in Rouen, for example, features artists including Caraggio, Monet and Modigliani.
Open daily 10.00-18.00. Call 02 35 71 28 40 or see www.rouen-musees.com. Entry: 5 or free for under-26s.

IF you are in Normandy early this summer, catch the closing concerts at Jazz Sous Les Pommiers, the biggest jazz festival in western France. The town of Coutances (Manche) gains a carnival-like atmosphere during the festival, which runs until June 4. Not all of the concerts are outdoors, as many of the towns most intimate venues open their doors for performances. More than 100 different artists are taking part this year, with several international performers including US Jazz trio Ron Carter, Russell Malone and Mulgrew Miller, the UKs Jamie Cullum, the Mistico Mediterraneo trio of Italy and many more.
See the full line-up at www.jazzsouslespommiers.com or call Coutances tourist office on 02 33 19 08 10.

The Muse des Beaux Arts in Le Havre gives an insight into Normandys artistic heritage. The modern museum has views over the port and big, light, open galleries. Visitors can follow a trail to view the paintings chronologically from the 17th to 20th centuries. French impressionism is represented by Boudin, Monet and Renoir. Other artists featured include Manet, Millet, Courbet and a host of Dutch, Flemish and Italian painters.
Open Mon-Fri 11.00-18.00 and Sat-Sun 11.00-19.00. Call 02 35 19 62 62. Entry is 5, under-26s go free.

There is also the Muse des Beaux Arts in Caen, built within the walls of William the Conquerors hilltop chteau. The museum hosts a wide range of French, Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings from the 15th century to today.
See www.mba.caen.fr or call 02.31.30.47.70. Open daily 9.30-18.00. Entry with full access to the special exhibitions is 7 or 5 for concessions.

Leisure
Have a splash around at one of Normandys big indoor swimming pools.The Centre Aquatique de la Suisse Normande in ThuryHarcourt (Calvados) has water at a constant 29, slides and tunnels and water fun, plus a

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Unusual museums and attractions

Head underground at Souterroscope in Caumont-lEvent (Calvados). With several hundred metres of tunnels, strange rocks and beautiful minerals, this former slate mine is a good choice for a rainy day.
Call 02 31 71 15 15 or see www.souterroscope-ardoisieres.fr. Open daily 10.0018.00 in July and August.

Did you know?

A Normandy man invented the dustbin

By Maggie Wakefield IT IS hard these days to imagine life without recycling, or tri slectif (which apparently we should now be calling tri cologique). As for life without any kind of dustbin at all unthinkable. In fact the domestic POUBELLE: The dustbin has only been brains behind the in existence for a cen- tri slectif tury and a bit, and its inventor, Eugne Poubelle, was not only a Frenchman but a son of Normandy, born in Caen in 1831. Eugne Poubelle studied law at university and went on to become a highly-regarded figure in public life. In 1884, as prefect in charge of Paris, he decreed that all Parisian landlords must provide receptacles for their tenants rubbish. What is more, he specified that there must be three separate containers: one for biodegradables, one for paper and rags, and one for glass, pottery and oyster shells. Plus a change, plus cest la mme chose. Despite some initial resistance, the scheme caught on and the word poubelle officially entered the French language in 1890, when it was included in the supplement of the Grand Dictionnaire Universel du XIX Sicle. If France got the rubbish sorted, then it was an Englishman who designed that other important waste disposal system, the flush toilet. Interestingly, while late 16th-Century England saw little point in Sir John Haringtons invention Elizabeth I apparently would not use one because she didn't like the noise it made in France, Haringtons flushing toilet was adopted with great enthusiasm. Infer from that what you will.

Varied attractions: Mineral formations, above, and Chinese versus Louis XV (Musee de beaux Art Rouen) left, jacuzzi and sauna.
Open daily 10.0012.00 and 14.3018.30. Adults 5, children 4. Call 02 31 79 03 18.

Learn about the work of the emergency services at the Muse des Sapeurs-Pompiers de lOrne in Bagnoles de lOrne. Housed in a former chapel, this collection of fire pumps and equipment traces the history of firefighting.
Adults 3.80, children 2.30. Call 02 33 38 10 34.

Admire intricate battle scenes featuring hundreds of beautifully hand-crafted miniature soldiers at the Palais de la Miniature in Les Barils (Eure).
Open every day in July and August except Monday, 11.00-12.30 and 14.30-18.00. Call 02 32 37 64 70.

There is also an Espace Aquatique in Condsur-Noireau (Calvados) with three pools, a giant slide and various play equipment for all the family, open daily from 10.00 except Mondays when it is only open in the afternoons from 14.00 to 18.00.
Call 02 31 69 02 93. Adults 5.60, children 4.40.

Watch a potter at work at the Muse de la Poterie in Ger, near Mortain (Manche). The centre has more than 700 potters and a collection of more than 3,000 pots. It also organises a special market with demonstrations in the last weekend in August.
Open daily except Monday 11.00-19.00. Adults 4.20, children 1.75. Call 02 33 79 35 36.

Spend a chilling hour or two in the Muse de Tinchebray (Orne), which features a royal prison, cells, court room and museum.
Entry 2. Call 02 33 64 23 55.

If rain looks set to last several hours, take refuge in a cinema. There is a large UGC multiplex in Mondeville on the outskirts of Caen (08 92 70 00 00) and in the Saint-Sever shopping complex near Rouen (08 92 69 66 96), both of which include regular English films in the original version (subtitled in French, without dubbing). An ideal time to go is between June 25 and July 1, when the Fte du Cinma gives you access to any film at participating cinemas for just 3. If your trip to the beach has been rained off, or you need some shade for a few hours, pop into Trouville casino. Gamble anything from one centime to 5 at a time at 240 different slot machines. Remember you can lose as well as win though!
Open daily from 9.30 until late. Call 02 31 87 75 00.

Admire one of Europes largest model railways at the Muse du Chemin de Fer Miniature, Clcy.
Adults 7, children 3. Open daily 10.0018.00 in July and August (closed for lunch from 12.00-14.00 in June).

For fashion fans, visit Christian Diors childhood house built on top of a hill crest and its beautiful views overlooking the sea near Granville (Manche). This years seasonal exhibition focuses on the work of artists, writers and musicians who were close to Dior or directly inspired by the iconic fashion designer. Runs until September 25.
Open daily 10.00-18.30. Entry 6, free for under-12s. Call 02 33 61 48 21 or see www.musee-diorgranville.com
Photo: hoboton - Fotolia.com

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GOLF AND SPAS

Golfing enthusiasts are spoilt for choice in Normandy, which has regularly been nominated one of the best golf destinations in Europe. The region has 35 courses, most of which have 18 holes or more, and there is something for everyone,
Manche
GOLF DE BRHAL (9 holes) Rue du Golf, Saint Martin de Brhal - 02 33 51 58 88 Offers beautiful views over the sea and the Mont Saint Michel bay, with a light breeze coming in off the sea. Rounds start at 20. GOLF CENTRE MANCHE (9 holes) Le Haut Bocq, Saint Martin dAubigny 02 33 45 24 52 Situated in the heart of the Marais du Cotentin natural park, this protected 60-hectare site lets you play a friendly round in a setting with apple trees and ancient oaks. From 30. GOLF DE CHERBOURG (9 holes) Domaine des Roches, La Glacerie - 02 33 44 45 48 One of the most beautiful nine-hole courses in Normandy, up on the hills surrounding Cherbourg. Six indoor and 12 outdoor practice greens. GOLF DE BAGNOLES DE LORNE (9 holes) Route de Domfront - 02 33 37 81 42 In the heart of the Andaine forest, close to the thermal spas, hotels and casino. From 16. GOLF DE BELLME SAINT-MARTIN (18 holes) Les Sablons, Bellme - 02 33 73 12 79 A varied course over hills and through forest land, in th middle of th Perche natural park. Around 45.

from the very beginner to professionals. Notable sites include the spectacular Golf dEtretat situated on the clifftop above the famous Falaise dAval, and the Golf de Saint-Sans with beautiful views over the Fort dEawy. Some of the best courses are outlined below.
Orne

Golf practice schools on Wednesday and Saturday. From 20. GOLF DE LA CTE DES ISLES (9 holes) St Jean de la Rivire - 02 33 93 44 85 Located in the dunes near the beach at Barneville-Carteret. Lots of ups and downs and a prevailing sea wind. There is also a three-hole practice course for beginners. From 15. GOLF DE COUTAINVILLE (9 holes) Agon-Coutainville - 02 33 47 03 31 Well-kept course between the sea and the bocage countryside. From 45. GOLF DE GRANVILLE (27 holes) Breville sur Mer - 02 33 50 23 06 Popular location along the seafront, with a covered practice course, two putting greens and a welcoming clubhouse. Around 50.

Calvados
BAYEUX OMAHA BEACH (27 holes) La Ferme Saint Sauveur, Port en Bessin - 02 31 22 12 12 Beautiful seaside setting, near the D-Day landing beaches. Three different routes taking in sea views, the bocage woodland and a vast lake. Around 65. GOLF BARRIRE DE DEAUVILLE (18 holes) Mont Canisy Saint-Arnoult - 02 31 14 24 24 On a hill overlooking Deauville, the sea and the Calvados countryside. 18 holes from 50 to 80. GOLF BARRIRE DE SAINT-JULIEN (27 holes) Saint-Julien-sur-Calonne, Pont-LEvque Course set among apple trees with views over the green Pays dAuge countryside and a relaxing colombage club house. Around 50.

Photo: haraldMM

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OTHER PLACES TO TAKE IT EASY

13

Over the centuries many people have flocked to Normandy to relax and find a cure for their ailments. The region is wellknown for its thalassotherapy (seawater therapy), and there are spas along the Cte Fleurie, from Honfleur to Cabourg, especially in Deauville, Luc-sur-Mer, Ouistreham and Trouville. Granville also has a thalassotherapy centre.
Rue Jules Michelet, see www.previthal.com or call 02 33 90 31 10.

To get away from the busy sea resorts, head inland to Bagnoles de lOrne. The refined spa town was a popular place for the wealthy to settle in the late 19th century for its spring water, which it is claimed has healing properties. People suffering from all sorts of ailments from arthritis to stress still flock here to visit the Etablissement Thermal. It is reported to be particularly helpful for people with rheumatism and circulation problems.
See www.thermes-bagnoles.com or call 0811 90 22 33.

GOLF DE CABOURG LE HOME (8 holes) Le Home Varaville - 02 31 91 25 56 Built in 1907, this is one of Normandys oldest golf courses. Around 50. GOLF PUBLIC DE CABOURG (9 holes) Avenue de lHippodrome - 02 31 91 70 53 Ideal for beginners. Includes a covered practice course and putting green. Up to 30. GOLF DE CLECY CANTELOU (18 holes) Manoir de Cantelou - 02 31 69 72 72 Relaxing course in th Suisse Normande with panoramic views. Around 45. GOLF DE LAMIRAUT (27 holes) Route de Paris, Touques-Deauville - 02 31 81 82 83 Includes a special route designed for nighttime golfing under the stars. Up to 60. GOLF DE CAEN LE VALLON (27 holes) Biville-Beuville - 02 31 94 72 09 Includes a putting green, practice course, restaurant and clubhouse. Pampering in Bagnoles de lOrne, above

Photo: Peter_Curbishley

Alternatively, try Forge-les-Eaux (SeineMaritime) - a quiet, fashionable spa town that was a popular choice of Louis XIII and Cardinal Richelieu.
Call the tourist office on 02 35 90 52 10.

Seine-Maritime
GOLF DE DIEPPE-POURVILLE (18 holes) 02 35 84 25 05 Normandys oldest golf course, dating back to 1897, on the cliffs of Dieppe with stunning views out to sea. Up to 60. GOLF DETRETAT (18 holes) Route du Havre - 02 35 27 04 89 Exceptional location on the cliffs looking down on the Etretat bay. Routinely voted one of the best in the world by golfers. Up to 65. GOLF DE ROUEN LA FORT VERTE (18 holes) Bosc-Guerard - 02 35 33 62 94

Gently sloped course close to the centre of Rouen. Up to 50. GOLF DE JUMIEGES (27 holes) Le Mesnil, Jumieges - 02 35 05 32 97 Situated in the Seine-Normande natural park, this course includes pitch and putt and a popular bar-restaurant open all year round. About 35. GOLF DE SAINT-SANS (18 holes) Chteau du Vaudichon - 02 35 34 25 24 In th beautiful setting of the Fort dEawy on the Normandy-Picardy border, this course has its own hotel on-site for golfing holidays and a bar for meeting friends. About 50.

Eure
GOLF DU CHAMP DE BATAILLE (18 holes) Le Neubourg - 02 32 35 03 72 Sixty-hectare course through woods, over valleys and around lakes. Around 65. GOLF DE LERY POSES (18 holes) Base de loisirs et de plein air, Poses - 02 32 59 47 42 Relatively easy course for newcomers, plus a pitch-and-put and putting green. Up to 35.

The exceptional location of Golf dEtretat

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GLORIOUS GARDENS
Normandy boasts an extraordinary number of parks and gardens open to the public inlcluding the regions most famous one in Giverny.
THE gardens at the Fondation Claude Monet in Giverny are a top Normandy attraction, with their weeping willows, azaleas, wisterias and pond that provided Monet with so much inspiration. The artist spotted Giverny from a train window while he was travelling through Normandy in 1883. He fell in love at first sight, and moved there soon after. The site fell into disrepair after his death but has since been restored, and serves as a living memorial to his work. It gets very busy in the summer, so try to get there early.
The Fondation is open daily 9.30-18.00. Entry 8, 5 for under-12s, under-sevens go free. Call 02 32 51 28 21 or see www.fondation-monet.fr
Photo: Vudoiseau

Clos de Coudray

MANCHE
The Jardin de Clairbois at Brix has a collection of more than 600 species of magnolias, heathers and rhodedendrons. The woods on the site also contain sequoias, including one that is 150 years old.
Entry is 5. Under-12s go free. Open Thursday-Sunday and bank holidays from 14.00-18.00. See www.jardindeclairbois.com

Look a bit further afield from Giverny and you will find a wide range of garden styles, from simple cottage gardens to grand, formal schemes via walled kitchen gardens, botanical collections, subtropical plantations and landscaped English-style gardens. If you are in Normandy early this summer, the ideal opportunity to explore the regions parks and gardens comes on June 3-5, with the annual Rendez-Vous aux Jardins festival. This is a nationwide initiative that Normandy takes particularly seriously, with hundreds of private gardens opening up to the public to enjoy. You can find a list of all the participating venues at www.parcsetjardins.fr Also in June, there is a plant fair in the grounds of the Chteau de la Roche Bagnoles in Bagnoles de lOrne (Orne) on June 11-12 with more than 40 stands.
Entry 1.50. Call 02 33 37 92 04.

In a little valley outside Coutances, the Jardins dArgences include eight charming gardens connected by water, set around a 17th-century manor house. The venue also houses an open-air silent film festival every July.
Open every day from 14.00-18.00. Call Coutances tourist office for more info on 02 33 19 08 10 or see www.jardins-argences.com

The Jardin dElle in Viliers-Fossard features more than 2,500 varieties of plants and trees in specially themed areas, and has a shop selling plants and produce.
Open Monday-Saturday 9.00-12.00 and 14.00-18.30, also Sundays 14.00-18.30. Call 02 33 05 88 64 or see www.dellenormandie.com

And on June 11-12 is the Fte des Plantes at the Prieur Saint-Michel in Vimoutiers (Orne), with 45 exhibitors.
Open 10.00-19.00, entry 6. Call 02 33 39 15 15 or see www.prieure-saint-michel.com

Near Cherbourg, the Parc Floral de Martinvast offers monkey puzzle trees, water cascades and exotic evergreens. A family ticket is 20.

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Normandy has many outstanding gardens - which is your favourite? Above, the gardens of Chateau du Vendeuvre (14) which also feature mazes and a grotto. Open every day throughout summer. Tel: 02 31 40 93 83 or visit www.vendeuvre.com
The park is open weekdays 10.00-12.00 and 14.00-18.00, and weekends and bank holidays 14.00-18.00 only. See www.chateau-martinvast.fr or call 02 33 87 20 80.

The Jardin des Plantes and Jardin Botanique in Caen have playgrounds for children of different ages and more than 800 species of plants, including an orangery that features a banana tree, coffee plant, vanilla orchid and cacti. Admission is free.
Entrance is free. Open every day. Call 02 31 30 48 38 or see www.caen.fr

CALVADOS
The 17th-century Chteau de Brcy in Saint-Gabriel-Brcy includes a meticulously restored, richly ornamented Italian style garden laid out over four terraces.
Open Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays 14.30-18.30. Entry 6, free for children under 12. Call 02 31 80 11 48.

Edwin Lutyens for the French family who still live in the house. The parkland gardens beyond the house slope down towards the sea and have many fine specimens of trees including blue cedars, and shrubs including a spectacular show of camellias and other floral shrubs.
Adults 10, under-16s 4, free for children under seven. Call 02 35 85 10 02 or see www.boisdesmoutiers.com

SEINE-MARITIME
The tranquil Jardin des Plantes in the heart of Rouen has some unexpected treats in its greenhouse including coffee and banana trees, sugar canes, orchids and huge water lilies. The gardens host a large and important botanical collection including medicinal plants, rare trees and ornamental shrubs, roses and irises.
Open daily, entrance is free. Call 02 32 18 21 30 or see www.rouen.fr

The Anglo-French park surrounding the Chteau de Canon has a variety of gardens dating from the 18th century, including parterres and wild copses, canals and waterfalls, and a collection of 13 walled gardens brimming with flowers. Visits are free for the under-12s and 6 for others.
Open every day except Tuesday from 14.00-18.00. Call 02 50 93 65 17 or see www.chateaudecanon.com

The Jardins de Louanne is a collection of themed gardens in Fcamp that are ideal for a relaxing family trip. The site has its own special childrens area and there is also an exotic water garden and a mini-farm with goats and rabbits.
Open Friday-Sunday 11.00-19.00. Entry 5, under-10s go free. Call 02 35 10 78 41 or see www.lesjardinsdelouanne.com

For a feast of colours, see the rainbow vegetable garden in the grounds of the Louis XIII-style Chteau de Bosmelet near Auffay.
Open daily from 13.00-1900. Call 02 35 32 81 07

EURE
The Chteau de Vandrimare, near Les Andlys, has five gardens, each dedicated to one of the senses: sight, smell, touch, taste and sound. The park includes a maze, orangery and 2,500 species of plant.
Entry 6, free for under-12s. Open daily 14.30-18.00 except the first weekend in July and August. Call 02 32 49 03 57

Example of stunning Cambremer garden. More can be found at parcs-et-jardins. normandie-tourisme.fr

Photo: Vudoiseau

A definite must are the gardens at the Bois des Moutiers in Varengeville-sur-Mer, 8km west of Dieppe. Designed by the great British garden designer Gertrude Jekyll, the formal gardens form a perfect backdrop to the mansion designed by British architect

ORNE
The Petite Rochelle garden in Remalard consists of eight different coloured gardens in one.
See www.la-petite-rochelle.com or call 02 33 73 85 38. Open daily from 13.00-19.00 from mid-July to mid-August.

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LOCAL TIPS AND UNSEEN NORMANDY

The guide books are full of information on the Mont Saint Michel, the Bayeux Tapestry and the D-Day landings. We go in search of the parts of Normandy that only the locals know.
Perhaps one of the least-visited parts of the region is the very top of the Cotentin peninsula - even though hundreds of thousands of tourists pass through it every year on the way down from Cherbourg to the west of France. JAN TARBUCK, who runs a guest house in Crances (Manche), says tourists who arrive in Normandy at the ferry terminals tend to speed off into the distance without appreciating what the region has to offer. People should be urged not to step on the gas when they hit Cherbourg and head south, she says. The Cotentin Peninsula, for example, has so much to offer. The golden, sandy beaches down the west coast are out of this world and almost always deserted. There are many places of interest (usually well-documented) to visit but also little gems like the Chteau at Pirou (near Coutances, call 02 33 46 34 71), reportedly the oldest castle in Normandy, the Dior museum at Granville and copper pan manufacturers at Villedieu-les-Poles. That is before you get started on the usual suspects like Mont St Michel, the Second World War landing beaches and Bayeux. For the more outdoorsy types there are excellent golf courses and cycle paths, but also more unusual pastimes such as sand-yachting and kite surfing are very popular here. Most visitors just see it from their car window as they head south from Cherbourg, but the Cotentin Peninsula has plenty of attractions of its own. It is largely unspoilt, with a wild, windswept coastline, wide sandy beaches and little ports. The remote Cap de la Hague is ideal for walking and cycling. Or head along the road from Cherbourg to Barfleur, with its attractive harbour where William the Conqueror set sail for Hastings. Further along the coast is Saint-Vaastla-Hougue (Manche), where you can

take an amphibious boat to the Ile Tatihou, a tiny island off the

Photo: Richard Villalon Fotolia.com

Pointe dHague, above, and getting to grips with sand yachting, right

Photo: CRT

Summer 2011
coast, which has some great gardens for children to play in, plus birdwatching and a maritime museum. Tickets (including boat ride) are 8.60 for adults and 3.50 for children. Call 02 33 23 19 32. The island welcomes a maximum of 500 visitors per day, and can be accessed at low tide by a 25-minute walk better experienced with waterproof shoes.

Whats On
1,000 kites take to the skies of Dieppe every other September

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Get planning for 2012

Its never too early to start thinking about your holiday to Normandy - and there are often good deals to be had on accommodation and travel if you book early. Some events in the region are held twice-yearly or less frequently. Here are two big events that are taking a rest in 2011 but will be back next year. The Festival International du Cerf Volant in Dieppe takes place every other year, in September. More than 1,000 colourful kites in all shapes and sizes - cows, dragons, gods and more - go on display, from kitemakers all over the world. There are childrens workshops including kite-making tutorials, as well as processions, street theatre and a spectacular night-time display set to music. Admission is free. Check the website at http://dieppe-cerfvolant.org closer to the time or call Dieppe tourist office: 02 32 14 40 60. La Rando Baie is a weekend of family

Photo: Ville de Diepp

walks and events around the bay of the Mont St Michel, including music and dance, a medieval procession, horse-and-carriage rides, childrens workshops and storytelling. See http://randobaie.free.fr

For the more outdoorsy types there are excellent golf courses and cycle paths, but also more unusual pastimes such as sandyachting and kite surfing are very popular here.

Cut cost of travel

If you travel regularly between the UK and Normandy by ferry, frequent traveller schemes could help you save on tickets. Both LD Lines (Dieppe-Newhaven and Le Havre-Portsmouth) and Brittany Ferries (Caen and Cherbourg-Portsmouth)

offer membership packages with discounts. The LD Lines programme allows you to collect miles for each crossing you make, which can then be redeemed for free crossings for either yourself or friends and family. See www.frequent-traveller.co.uk The Brittany Ferries frequent traveller scheme, called the Property Owners Travel Club, becomes interesting for passengers who do at least six trips per year. It offers savings of up to 30 per cent on crossings and a 10 per cent reduction on on-board meals. The annual membership fee is 60. See www.brittany-ferries.co.uk

How to tackle Mont Saint Michel

It is the top tourist attraction in Normandy, but visiting the Mont Saint Michel in the July and August heat can be unbearable. Crowds form quickly in the narrow streets and visitors frequently stop in front of you for photos. The top tip we have heard for avoiding the crowds is to get there early in the morning or very late in the afternoon, when numbers start to die down. One Normandy resident who lives near the Mont Saint Michel says: We find the best time, if you can, is early morning before 10.30 to be parked and inside the walls. Do the upper visit of the abbey over the lunchtime period. We always do this when we have family and friends over to stay who want to go and visit. Lunchtime is very quiet and unhurried. The French lunch over the two hours from noon to 2pm. By this time we have made our way back down from the abbey and the queues for

paying to get a ticket are so long as lunchtime has finished. Failing that, in the height of summer it gets crowded and very warm so go late afternoon or early evening. We have packed a picnic and just sat on the grass outside of the city walls and watched the sun set and the moon rise. It was breath-taking. Another very important aspect to consider with the Mont Saint Michel are the tides, which are among the highest in Europe. The tourist office says it is extremely dangerous to venture alone into the bay close to the monument. It is advised only to attempt any kind of crossing using a qualified guide. If you do decide to trek through the tidal flats, be warned that they are very muddy. Never attempt any walks on the sands without checking the tide tables, which are published on the tourist office website: http://www.ot-montsaintmichel.com/en.

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MARKETS AND SHOPPING

One of the highlights of rural life in Normandy is shopping in the morning markets that spring up in country towns and villages every week, selling the best local produce. Your nearest tourist office can supply a list of market days in the area and it is always worth arriving as early as possible for the best choices. Shopping in Normandy is not just about markets, however. All over the region you can buy produce directly from the producers: look out for vente directe roadside signs pointing you to calvados and cheese-makers. Other local specialities to look out for include foie gras, honey, jams, shortbread and sweets.

Grande Rue in Dieppe is a lively, pedestrianised area to shop in

and highlights include a wide selection of freshly caught fish. CAMBREMER (Calvados): This Pays dAuge country town turns its market into a spectacle every Sunday morning in July and August, with peasant costumes, folk dancing and horse-drawn carriage rides, as well as the usual local produce, arts and crafts. DIEPPE (Seine-Maritime): The long pedestrianised Grande Rue turns into a lively open-air market every Saturday morning. Local fruit

Some of the best markets in Normandy

LAIGLE (Orne) hosts a huge, bustling market every Tuesday morning that typically attracts thousands of shoppers from the surrounding area. Regional produce on sale includes cheese, cider and vegetables, and one of the largest livestock markets in France.

BAYEUX (Calvados): Smallholders from the surrounding countryside come to Bayeux on Saturday morning to sell their produce on Place Saint-Patrice. A popular choice for local fruit, veg, cheeses, sausages and more. CAEN (Calvados): The citys market has been a regular fixture for the past 1,000 years. It is held every Friday on the Place Saint Sauveur

Summer 2011
and veg and fresh fish sit alongside produce from all over France including olives and honey. DIVES-SUR-MER (Calvados): The seaside resort goes shopping mad on Saturday mornings in the large 15th-century market halls (les halles). In August there is also a local produce market on Tuesdays. FORGES-LES-EAUX (Seine-Maritime): Farmers market every Thursday and Sunday morning with dairy produce, eggs, meat, fish and cheese from around Neufchtel in many shapes and sizes: rounds, bricks and logs. MORTAGNE-AU-PERCHE (Orne): The Saturday farmers market is famous for its black pudding (boudin noir). ROUEN (Seine-Maritime): The capital of Haute-Normandie has a busy market on the Place Saint-Marc every Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday with food, second-hand books, bric-a-brac and more. SAINT-L (Manche): A traditional farmers market sets up shop in the main square on Saturday mornings, selling local produce, fresh fish, clothing, flowers and furniture.

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selling a wide range of intricate objects. Call 02 35 94 44 79. For faence, away from Rouen, try Le Mesnil de Bavent in Ranville (Calvados) which sells beautiful pottery and ornaments. See www.poterie-bavent.com or call 02 31 84 82 41. If you find yourself in Caen, Family Broc (Rue de Bayeux, 02 31 73 00 01) is full of antiques and art for anyone seeking a regional memento to take home with them, and nearby Artagor (Rue Buquet, 02 31 93 16 00) also specialises in unusual souvenirs. For bric-a-brac in general, look out for posters advertising vide-greniers or foires tout - these are like car boot sales, where residents in a town or village will sell unwanted items of furniture, records, books and much more - a great place for haggling.

Also worth visiting is Le Bois Dormant in Caen (Rue Froide, 02 31 85 35 01) which stocks wooden toys and games, jigsaws and musical instruments, just opposite the Eglise Saint Sauveur. In Dieppe, try the Galerie Montador, an art gallery and childrens gift toy shop with wooden trains, puppets and T-shirts. Call 02 35 82 63 03.

Food and drink

Les Ruchers in Le Vey, near Clcy (Calvados) is a local specialist in beekeeping and has a shop selling varieties of honey and related products such as soap, royal jelly, spice cake and sweets. Visits can be arranged by appointment in July and August. Call 02 31 69 46 27. Chocaholics shuold visit Chocolaterie Auzou (Rue du Gros-Horloge, Rouen). It also has branches in Evreux and Le Havre. See www.auzou-chocolat.fr or call 02 35 70 59 31. Another popular sweetshop Charlotte Corday in Caen (Rue Saint-Jean, 02 31 86 33 25) stocks calvados and apple-flavoured chocolates. The original Bndictine distillery in Fcamp (Seine-Maritime) combines a liqueur factory, museum and shop and is open seven days a week from July 10, between 10.00 and 19.00. Entry is 6.50. Call 02 35 10 26 10. Cider fans should take a journey along the famous Route du Cidre through the beautiful Pays dAuge countryside, around Cambremer. More than 30 distilleries line the route, many of which offer guided tours and well-stocked shops. More info from Cambremer tourist office on 02 31 63 08 87. The Pierre Huet Calvados distillery at the Manoir de la Brire des Fontaines, Cambremer, offers five guided visits every day. Call 02 31 63 01 09. Another popular destination for food and drink fans is Gribouille in Honfleur (Rue de lHomme du Bois) which has a lavish selection of local gastronomic specialities such as pommeau. See www.gribouillehonfleur.com or call 02 31 89 29 54.

Arts, crafts and antiques

If you are looking for a unique souvenir to take home with you, there is a rich selection of antique and bric-a-brac shops and other outlets specialising in arts and crafts around Normandy. Local specialities include faence, a blue-and-white decorated ceramic widely sold in small independent shops in Rouen, and copper pots, something of a trademark of Villedieu-les-Poles (Manche). Many independent shops have limited opening hours, so check before making a journey. A lot of small shops will close for a two-hour lunch break or be closed on Wednesdays, for example. If it is glassware you are after, make a visit to the 16th-century Manoir de Fontaine in Blangy-sur-Bresle (Seine-Maritime), which holds weekend glass-blowing demonstrations between 14.00 and 18.00 and has a shop

For children
Ateliers Jorelle in Bzu-Saint-Eloi (Eure) has been making traditional hand-made toys and games since 1864. Workshop tours are available and you can buy the products at the end. See www.jorelle-france.com or call 02 32 55 07 67.

If you are looking for a unique souvenir to take home with you, there is a rich selection of antique and bric-a-brac shops and other outlets specialising in arts and crafts around Normandy
Buy directly from producers at markets

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FAMILY OUTINGS
(for less than 80 for the day)
Keeping the children entertained while on holiday need not be costly. Normandy has no shortage of fun activities for families with children of all ages. Here we have set a daily budget of 80 for two adults and two children to enjoy a day out. This budget covers all entry fees and activities, but not food.
CYCLE A RAILWAY LINE. Normandy has several Vlo-Rail sites, where modified multiperson bikes are rigged up to an old railway track. It is a great way of seeing the countryside and getting exercise. Each bike needs two riders on either side - one of whom must be an adult and the other at least tall enough to reach the pedals. In between there is room for another two or three people. The Vlo-Rail in Etretat runs from Les Loges (Seine-Maritime) to Etretat and the ride takes about half an hour. You can then choose to take a train back, or cycle the return journey which is slightly uphill and takes about 45 to 60 minutes. Booking is essential and the site is open daily in July and August. Tickets are 24.40 for four people with return by train (26.40 for five). Or save a few euros by cycling back and the price falls to 20.
Call 02 35 29 49 61 or see www.lafrancevuedurail.fr/ttepac

ENJOY A TRIP TO THE ZOO. Cerza is Normandys biggest zoo, with more than 700 animals, and is a great place to see tigers, lemurs and endangered species. A safari train takes you past giraffes and lions and there is a miniature farm where you can get up close to animals, plus a new tropical zone featuring alligators and crocodiles. The site has a large open-air picnic space, covered observatories along the path to catch some shade, plus two restaurants. Cerza zoo is on the main road through Hermival-les-Vaux (Calvados) and is open all day in July and August from 9.30 to 19.00 (opens at 10.00 in June). Tickets are 17 for over-12s, 9.50 for 3-11 year olds, bringing a family ticket to 53. The owners recommend you allow about four hours to see the park in full. from Val de Maizet station, which takes you on a scenic 22km ride over three or four hours and costs 30 per bike.
Call 06 32 88 51 62

In the Manche, there is a Vlo-Rail between Cond-sur-Vire and Gourfaleur at 17 per bike for a return journey of about 10km. Open daily in July and August except Monday mornings.
Reserve by calling 02 33 77 42 22 or see www.velorail-pourlavire.fr.

In the Suisse Normande, there are two schemes operating. The Vlo-Rail from Pont Erambourg to Pont du Voudray costs 18 for a two-hour round trip
Call 02 31 69 39 30 or see www.railssuissenormande.fr

For a longer ride, take the Vlo-Rail

VISIT A FARM. La Ferme-Nature in Orbec (Calvados) is a nature farm in the heart of the Calvados countryside, attached to an animal rescue centre, with more than 60 species of animal. Some you can approach and touch. It is open every day 10.00-19.00 between May and the end of August, then 14.00-18.00 in September. Tickets are a modest 6 for adults and 3.50 for children under 13. Allow about two hours to see everything. Call 02 31 63 91 70 or see www.dame-blanche.org.

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Photo: Marzanna Syncerz Fotolia.com

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Attractions offer fun for all the family, from wild animals at the zoo, to sandy beaches and rides of all description Alternatively, try the Ferme aux Cinq Saisons in Flamanville (Manche); a real childrens farm with apple press, breadmaking and animals galore. Adults 7.50, children 4.50.
Call 02 33 04 56 84

Photo: Wikipedia

GO WILD AT A THEME PARK. Festyland in Bretteville-sur-Ordon (Calvados) is a popular amusement park for children of all ages with a rollercoaster, bouncy castles, water slides, go karts, a circus and a range of other attractions around the themes of pirates, Vikings and the Middle Ages. Tickets are 16 for over-12s and 14 for under. Children under 95cm tall go free. The park is open every day in July and August, 10.3019.00 (ticket desks open half an hour earlier) and through most of June. Check www.festyland.com or call 02 31 75 04 04. In the SeineMaritime, the smaller Parc du Bocasse has more than 20 main attractions which include mini-golf, rides and waterslides. There is a flat entry fee of 13.50 for visitors of all ages.
Call 02 35 33 22 25 or see www.parcdubocasse.fr

Virevolts is a wacky annual festival in Vire that is ideal for children, July 2-10. The free event includes concerts, an aerial circus, street theatre, acrobatics, dance, marionette shows, juggling and more. See www.lesvirevoltes.org SEE THE STARS. Ludiver planetarium at the Cap de la Hague (Manche) offers a fascinating day out for young scientists, with 3D journeys to the centre of the earth and an interactive show exploring the solar system. A family ticket costs just 16. Open daily 11.0016.30 (afternoons only in June).

ENJOY A DAY AT THE BEACH. Normandy has miles of beautiful coastline. The Calvados coast in particular is popular for its big, wide, child-friendly beaches, especially Deauville and Cabourg. Both of them are very busy in the summer, but get there early or late afternoon and the crowds should be more bearable. If the glamorous streets and beaches of Deauville are too busy or too pricey, head along the coast to neighbouring Trouville. It has a beach, and a large aquarium containing not just local and tropical fish but also an impressive selection of reptiles from around the world ranging from large and venomous snakes to turtles and lizards. Open daily 10.00-19.30, adults 7, children 4. Call 02 31 88 46 04.

TAKE PART IN A STREET FESTIVAL. CELEBRATE THE SEA. The Cit de la Mer at Cherbourg (Manche) is one of Normandys top family attractions, but it can get very busy in the summer. Built in a former marine station inside a beautiful art dco listed building, the complex is divided into four spaces, which look at different aspects of the sea and its mysteries. The famous French submarine Redoutable, which when in service carried 16 missiles and 130 crew, is now part of the museum and is open for tours (under-fives are not allowed in the submarine for safety reasons). Tickets are 18 for adults, 13 for children and free for underfives. Two adults and two children will cost 62. Parking is free and once youre inside all the activities are included. The attraction is

open daily 9.30-19.00 in July and August. In June, it closes an hour earlier and is also shut over the Pentecost (Whitsun) weekend.
Call 02 33 20 26 44 or see www.citedelamer.com

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Whats On

Summer 2011

NEW FOR 2011

The Tour de France will be visiting Normandy for the first time in five years this summer

Le Tour de France
CYCLING fans will be flocking to Normandy this summer for the Tour de France, which will be visiting the region for the first time in five years, with Lisieux (Calvados) serving as a host town for one of the early stages. More than 60,000 spectators are expected to line the route as cyclists spend a day racing through the Basse-Normandie countryside on July 7, as part of a 226km stage from Dinan (Ctes dArmor) to the Pays dAuge - the longest stage in the competition. Lisieux has close links with the Tour de France. Every year, the town organises a celebratory gathering for competitors, 48 hours after they cross the finish line on the Champs-Elyses. The exact route was not available as this guide went to press, but it is highly likely to pass round the bay of the Mont St Michel, heading inland at Coutances and crossing the Manche and Calvados. See www.letour.fr for more info. This will be the first time the Tour has passed through the region since 2006, when cyclists finished a stage in Caen and started the following day from Lisieux. The region rarely

New look and expansion for the Utah Beach Museum in Sainte-Marie-du-Mont (Manche)

features on the race map. The last time the tournament started in Normandy was in 1997, when the Grand Dpart was held in Rouen to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the death of Jacques Anquetil, a celebrated local rider who became the first man to win the race five times.

New look for D-Day museum

ONE of Normandys most popular D-Day museums is reopening its doors in June, to coincide with the 47th anniversary commemorations The Utah Beach Museum in SainteMarie-du-Mont (Manche) has trebled in size since closing last October for a 6m revamp.

Summer 2011

Whats On

NORMANDY

23

monument, without all the crowds and souvenir shops. The walkway, just north of Pontorson, opened briefly last year but was closed again over the winter for improvement works to make it more accessible.

Celebrating Normandys birthday

summer long throughout Normandy. Each exhibition will include conferences, storytelling, educational discoveries and embroidery demonstrations, in French. See the tapestry at the Saint-Ouen abbey in Rouen from June 17 to July 27, Villers-sur-Mer from July 29 to September 7, in Saint-Clair-sur-Epte from September 9-11 and the Espace SaintPatrice in Bayeux from September 16-18. Entry to all the events is free. 2011 is also the year to celebrate Camembert. The emblematic Normandy cheese is the subject of a tribute festival this July 22-24, including a sound-and-light show. The Formidable pope du camembert et lhistoire si peu ordinaire du Pays de Camembert (formidable Camembert epic and the extraordinary story of Camembert country) aims to celebrate the cheese via a historic panorama retracing key events in Camembert countrys history, from the origins of Normandy to the present day.
For more information, contact the Pays de Camembert tourist office on 02 33 67 49 42.

Museum director Isabelle Attard said: The surface area of the museum has trebled, from 1,130m to 3,510m and we have redone everything inside. The project has received funding from several American donors and is led by American architect Nicolas Kelemen. The new site includes a purpose-built hangar that houses a life-size replica of a B-26 bomber, as well as a flight simulator. Located on the very site of the US landing, Utah Beach Museum recounts the military and technical exploits which made famous the beach of La Madeleine. Remnants can still be seen on the beach, but the most valuable things are preserved in the museum. The aim of the museum remains the same: to convey the memory of the events that took place in June 1944, and to relive the history of the landings along with its human and technical prowess.

Plans are underway to build a Viking village in Hrouville-Saint-Clair to coincide with Normandys 1,100th birthday celebrations. The attraction, provisionally called Ornavik and set in 10 hectares of grounds at the Parc de Beauregard, is due to open this summer. The project is run by a local association, staffed by volunteers. Visitors will be able to discover Normandys ancestors and Viking culture. More details will be available closer to the time from Caen tourist office on 02 31 27 14 14. Organisers hope it will be ready to open in time to coincide with the big Festival du Beauregard music event on July 1-3. Inspired by the Bayeux Tapestry recounting the events of 1066, a group of historians and craftspeople have joined forces to create a tapestry dedicated to the birth of Normandy in 911, to mark the regions eleventh centenary year. The tapestry tells the story of the Viking chief Rollo and the signature of the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte (see pages 6 7). An illustrator drew 30 scenes inspired by the events of the time, overseen by a medievalist and Latinist who translated the captions into Latin. An embroidery specialist then led a team of 20 volunteers to do the oriental stitching for the 21m-long piece. The finished work will be displayed all

Family fun
ERTIC is Festyland theme parks new ride for 2011. Visitors are spun round on a circular platform which swings up to 25 metres into the air like a metronome. Festyland is on the outskirts of Caen, near Carpiquet airport.
Tickets to the park are are 16 for over-12s and 14 for under. See www.festyland.com or call 02 31 75 04 04

FOR the first time in its history, Jurques zoo will be opening late into the evening for three nights only, on July 29, 30 and 31. Naturelovers will be able to see and hear their favourite nocturnal animals and join a big open-air dinner at dusk just metres away from giraffes.
Call 02 31 77 80 58 or see www.zoodejurques.fr

CHAMPRPUS zoo in Villedieu-les-Poles (Manche) has also been busy building a new penguin area ready for the summer season. The interactive space teaches children more about penguins and their habitats. See www.zoo-champrepus.com or call 02 33 61 30 74.

See the Mont St Michel from a different angle

A NEW barrage walkway has opened 2km inland from the Mont Saint Michel, on the River Couesnon that separates Brittany and Normandy. It offers spectacular views of the
Photo: Dave Cooper

24

NORMANDY

Whats On

Summer 2011

TIPS FROM THE LOCALS

WE asked readers of The Connexion, France's leading English-language newspaper, for their tips on what to see and do in Normandy. The replies have come from people who have one thing in common: they love Normandy. They either live in the region, have a second home there or visit regularly. We hope their tips will inspire you to branch out from the beaten path and discover some of the lesserknown sights that Normandy has to offer. We also asked readers for their tips on what to avoid - and how to alleviate the stress of long queues and crowds at some of the more popular attractions and resorts. Look out for more tips throughout the listings on pages 27 - 42.

s ildren resume classe French schoolchtember 5, but some on Monday, Sep K do not start back schools in the U Wednesday. If until Tuesday or r a short break to you're looking fod off the holidays, Normandy to en everything will be you should find aside resorts and quieter. The se paccked in August. motorways can be

The top N big crowds ormandy tourist sites in July and can attract attra Au s Marais, just outside trips tapestctions such as Givernygust. Try getting to The Mini Train de organises steam train ry up to and th Priers (Manche) mmer. It is English-owned and time. It'll be wohalf an hour before e Bayeux in and avoid rth the wait to opening every Sunday in su om and fish and chip van. be qu ro they have a tea rk with games for little height of the euing up to an hour inthe first summer he pa all the family There is a small they had a bungee trampo- for a quick t at. Alternathe reat place forClcy in the Suisse ther g ones and last year a large lake and park next to the ticket o rip, get there just tively, Anothe train museum at ear with our before ffices close is There is also e there last .y It was line. an hour b wer (typically See Normande.Weband and two girls it for a nice walk.rais.free.fr "Nessy" closureefore ork of us ). daughter,h ing to see the life-time wgreat. w.minitraindesma ww astonish his father - really if this man and ry is in French, but even e it some of the great The commenta rstand all, the visualswar l, if Anybody goingorto visy should try to get you can't unde is good for food as el N mand markets in re 11.30. The best produce Cormeilles (Eure) is a charming little town superb. Clecy a seat there befo d up very quickly. with a lovely Friday market (Sundays too in CP Orne you can get gets snappe July and August). There are a series of walks around the town and its environs available from the tourist office. There is also Mix it a large calvados distillery in the town which in Chwmphs the locals. A a ecret n vary greatly. welcomes has guided tours and dgustations. , near Dn English-run des in Normandy ecatimes and if you get ti month. Th local French omfront (O pub The l papers publish th KH - Lisieux e events a bands twic rne) Loca u could walk up to of French ttract a m e a at the right time yo and En there The sea. ix musicre igis also a mognltish, young anded crowd a kilometre out to n

Crisy Belle Etoile near Flers is a great place for children. It has an outdoor pool, swings, slides, climbing frames, carp pond, boules and a football area and grounds to wander around plus picnic tables, all free. AW - Vire

Visit a lavender farm in Calvados. Most French citizens believe that this plant only grows in the south of France, but an organic lavender farm has opened to the public for free and you can see for yourself these plants in flower during June/July and August. The farm also serves real English cream teas and you can see the distillation of the lavender flowers on most Sundays and Wednesdays. Open daily from 11.00 to 19.00. La Paix, Route de Vire, St Germain du Crioult. Call 02 31 67 62 73 or www.lapaixlavandes.com CK - Calvados

hly Englis old. Shirley -ht. h open Domfront

lived in Saint James William the Bastard le was in the square now (Manche). His castCalvaire. Take the signknown as Place du the former ramparts and posted walk around htful and unsung little you will see a deligle and shops there are town. All the peop l. Croissants from Angela charming and helpfu for and the butchers is and Luigi are to dieest has stunning flowers and brilliant. The flor style mairie (built by a even the Victorian over 100 holidaying Parisian h a visit. JA years ago) is wort

On the outskirts of Lisieux, there is a working farm called St Hyppolite which is great for a family day out. In addition to the herd of Norman cows (which are for dairy as well as beef) the grounds are very attractive and you can see Livarot cheese being made. There are also old farm buildings where there are explanations of how various local produce used to be created, such as cider. There's a shop and lots of tastings. More details at www.sainthippolyte.com KH - Moyaux landscape "

Normandy
Places to go / people who live there / jobs / the inside story
This four-page feature is an extract from a series of regional spotlights run in The Connexion, Frances English-language newspaper. The full series includes the major areas of France and gives an overview of job prospects and the local economy, the housing market and what people love about their region. It is available as a downloadable 24-page guide at www.connexionfrance.com, priced 5.

Did you Know?

Photo: www.calvados-tourisme.com

Bayeux number game

THERE are 626 characters in the Bayeux Tapestry, more than 200 horses, 50 dogs, about 500 other animals, 30 buildings and 40 ships. The 70m of embroidered cloth is in its own dedicated museum. Remarkably, it was undamaged in two fires in the Middle Ages that destroyed its original home of Bayeux cathedral.

Brilliant white cliffs and natural arches at Etretat have been lauded in art and literature

Photo: GOLF D'ETRETAT

NORMANDY has been a favourite British destination for decades. Reminiscent of the English countryside with its thatched cottages, half-timbered houses and bucolic prairies, it is idyllic and full of charm. There is a significant slice of common history since William the Conqueror invaded England in 1066, leading to the common language of Anglo-Norman and novelties such as the Tower of London being built in Caen stone. In France, this episode is remembered through the Bayeux Tapestry, an amazing work of craft which has shed light on the customs of 11th-century France and the different stages of the Norman Conquest. The modern face of Normandy was shaped by its role in the D-Day landings of the Second World War, where the coastal towns of Basse Normandie were among the first to

be liberated, but paid the price in civilian deaths and cities razed by relentless bombing in bloody battles that lasted weeks. Those days are remembered in the many cemeteries of Allied or German soldiers, the ruins of bunkers that can still be found on beaches and the museums and monuments, of which there are over 20 in the two regions, dedicated to prolonging the memory. If it is remembered for the darker days, Normandy is also known for having produced writers and artists whose love for their land became public through their art. Maupassant immortalised the beauty of the area in his works and Victor Hugo, in Demain, ds laube, wrote of his sadness as he walked from Le Havre to Villequier on his yearly pilgrimage to the grave of his daughter, Lopoldine, who drowned in the Seine. The unforgettable colours of Le

Havre harbour in Impression, Sunrise by Claude Monet gave rise to the Impressionist movement and his love of nature can be seen in Giverny, south-east of Rouen, where his pink stuccoed house has been restored with its water garden. Etretat cliffs have drawn artists of the calibre of Jean-Baptiste Corot and Eugne Delacroix, as did Dieppe with Paul Gauguin, Camille Pissarro and Auguste Renoir. Normandy has its share of palaces, castles and manors, but its richest architectural heritage is medieval, with the 150m towers of the Abbey of Jumiges being the tallest building in the region in the 11th century. You can get a taste for the region at Palais Bndictine in Fcamp, an extraordinary example of gothic and renaissance palace where the Bndictine liqueur is made.

So close for visitors but far enou

Dont miss these
Photo: B. Voisin-Office de Tourisme Rouen

Explore the streets of Rouen The capital of Haute-Normandie is a city rich in history. You can go back to Roman times to understand its foundation, learn about the Normans with William the Conqueror and hear about the last moments of Joan of Arc as she was burnt at the stake in the old market square. See Etretats natural arches of its cliffs Enjoy a walk on the wind-swept white cliffs and think about the hidden treasure of the kings of France, reputedly hidden in the needle rock that is such a dramatic feature. Readers of Maurice Blanc, author of the novels about gentleman thief Arsne Lupin, will recognise it as one of his leitmotifs. Mangez des pommes Freshly picked from a tree, squeezed into a glass of juice or prepared in a rhubarb and apple tart, the Norman apple is outstanding. Apple also goes well with cheeses such as the local camembert. It also makes alcohol, the most obvious of which is cider, but also Calvados. Try a Trou Normand, a digestive apple sorbet sprinkled with Calvados eaten in the middle of the meal; pommes la grivette, a speciality with apple, cottage cheese, sugar and calvados; or a traditional sweet from Rouen called Sucres de pomme. Visit the Le Pin national stud The Haras du Pin in the Orne is known as the Versailles for horses and is a listed national monument. Set over 1,000 hectares, it hosts equestrian shows throughout the year but is worth a visit just for the 18th-century chateau and stables. The historic stud has stables with 10 species of horses from Percherons to thoroughbreds and French trotters.

Photo: www.calvados-tourisme.com

Houses with colombage clay and lathe finishing give the Normandy countryside a charming air

ugh away to be a different world

The cost of living is probably better here on the whole
Geoff and Diana Shorto Nationality: British Location: Le Mesnil-Adele PART-TIME jobs at Marks & Spencer helped newly weds Geoff and Diana Shorto spend free time looking for a house in Normandy. Mr Shorto, from Cheshire, worked for BA and Londoner Diana, who also worked in travel services, lived in Hampshire before retiring and starting their new life in France. We liked Normandy, we liked the countryside. We had been searching for a number of years and went to Brittany and looked south of Rennes, but it was too flat and boring, Mr Shorto said. The countryside here is very much like where I grew up. We looked at Swiss Normandy as well; thats the sort of terrain we like and it is also convenient for visits. Le Mesnil-Adele is a village of about 200, half an hour from Avranches and 90 minutes from Ouistreham and Dinard, with ferries and flights to the UK. It is about three hours from Paris. Their research paid off, after a number of disappointments with viewings, when they heard about a farm cottage coming on to the market. The 200-year-old house had been extended about 50-60 years ago and was set in a beautiful plot of land with cider apple trees. Having seen that, we fell in love with it. It had not got a cellar, which we wanted, and it was not on the edge of a village, which we wanted, Mr Shorto said. It did not tick all the boxes, but it was a compromise and had the tranquillity and the right Now the couple are living a busy and happy life, but have had a few adjustments: We had to get used to the shopping habits where major places close at noon and dont open again until 14.00. You have to plan, otherwise you waste half the day waiting for the shop to open. Strangely, because supermarkets are franchised, branches can have different prices in the next town. So you have to shop around. The cost of living is probably better here on the whole. The taxe dhabitation is a tenth of what it was in the UK and our house was not as big and did not have as much land. Living here has been wonderful. We have very nice French neighbours; everybody we have met without exception has been very helpful and friendly.

Geoff and Diana Shorto amount of land. We wanted a hectare, we got exactly a hectare. And it was in the area and the size that we wanted. After re-flooring the ground floor and having it pointed, they will finish the house in about six months, but have more projects lined up, including plans for a formal garden.

Our village has three hairdressers, two bars, a restaurant, two banks and two bakers
Peter and Kathy Baker Nationality: British Location: Bacqueville-en-Caux BEING near to the ports was a major consideration for market research professional Peter Baker and his wife, Kathy, a quality development manager, when they started looking for a secondary house in 2003. The couple, who live near Newhaven, wanted somewhere for weekends and holidays: We had friends with a house in Normandy and we always wanted to do something similar, Mr Baker said. We decided it would be better to be nearer the ports, so we could go much more often and have shorter trips. After four months of research, they found their 1790 house in Bacqueville-en-Caux, near Dieppe, with the river Vienne running along one side of the house and a beautiful lush garden. We just found it so attractive. Funnily enough, when we started looking, we said we would look for a Normandy house with colombages, a longre in the middle of a field and within three miles of a bakers shop. But we saw this place, within three minutes of a bakers, a little brick building that so on. The surrounding small villages have lost many shops, but Bacqueville-en-Caux has kept more. What they liked best was the peacefulness and vast, beautiful countryside. It has got an incredible sense of peace and relaxation about it. We know the area very well; we bought bicycles in a car boot sale. So weve cycled and walked. The country is beautiful, especially in the valleys, although the flat bits in between are a little desert-like, with huge fields of grain and crops. Although they are very comfortable in Normandy, they have never considered moving permanently and prefer to keep it as a place to come to relax and recharge their batteries. Being regular visitors has also meant they have had a chance to build a real relationship with locals. You meet the retailers and the neighbours slowly, and people up and down the lane, and they invite you to their house first for an aperitif and then for more, Mr Baker said. People are wonderful and so helpful. When you speak to people in bars, if you ever say, Where can I get one of these?, you get 10 people trying to help you.

Peter and Kathy Baker enjoy village life was not what we had asked the estate agents for at all, we just had a coup de coeur. Its relatively small the downstairs is just one big room, upstairs is three bedrooms. In the past, it was either three or four houses; four tiny houses, possibly service houses for the chateau nearby. They visit at least once a month for a few days and say Bacqueville-en-Caux is a lively village: Its an absolutely charming, 18thcentury brick village. With just under 2,000 population, it has three hairdressers, two bars, a restaurant, two banks, two bakers and

Photo: www.calvados-tourisme.com

Using local tradesmen is what helped us perhaps get to know more people in the area
Anne and David Peters Nationality: British Location: Cond-sur-Sarthe A HUNTING lodge, built between the 15th and 17th centuries, was the perfect property for Anne and David Peters, who wanted space for their horses and for a gte. After searching Brittany and down to Charente, then across to Limousin, an English-speaking agent helped them find the dream house in lower Normandy and they moved from Surrey to Cond-sur-Sarthe, a village outside Alenon, at the end of 2004. They fell in love with the stone house and barns on nearly three hectares of land, saying: We saw this house and thought it had got us marked on it. It ticked all the boxes. Anne Peters said: We knew it had room for the gte, and it was good for the horses and not too hot. One of the big pulls was the fact it was not too far from the UK for people to travel because of the business that we wanted to create. By ferry or by Eurostar, they could get to us in four or five hours. She added: We are three miles from the forest, so there are loads of lovely walks; we are probably an hour and a half from any of the beaches and our guests all say there is so has been fully booked throughout summer, while having the odd winter lets. Now the cost of living has brought its share of difficulties and they are looking at diversifying into English immersion live-in courses as Mrs Peters is a qualified Toefl English teacher. Mrs Peters said she had made every effort to learn and integrate, but struggled to find a job and remembers being pushed away by one of her local supermarkets. I tried to get a job as a shelf-packer and they looked at me as if I had fallen from the back of a lorry. There was no way I would get that job because I was not French. However, their experience of moving to Normandy was smooth overall, with the usual up and downs, especially with the taxation system, which could sometimes be blamed on a lack of information in English. She found people friendly, but kept themselves to themselves: I find it very difficult to pop in on a French person. They are always very polite and will always offer you drinks, but it is difficult to totally integrate. We were perhaps nave when we took on this project, but we were also very lucky. I think using local tradesmen is what helped us perhaps to get to know more people in the area and be more accepted.

David and Anne Peters in dream house much to do within a couple of hours of this area. They can go to the Loire valley, to Mont St Michel, to Paris or to Le Mans. We are pretty central. Having designed and furnished the gte, the couple called in local artisans to renovate and turn the old barn into accommodation of three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a lounge, a dining room and a kitchen. Opened in 2006, their gte and swimming pool have been met with great success, and

THE JOB MARKET

ing and the food industry, which represents 20 per cent of all industrial employment. The second most important sector is electric and electronic construction. There are also 6,000 people employed in working with horses, while twice this number work in tourism. Veronique Crz, Normandy delegate of the Franco-British Chamber of Commerce What are the main industries in Normandy? The main fields are car manufacturing, chemicals, biology, health, aeronautics, logistics and transport and, of course, energy: the nuclear plants at Paluel and Penly produce more than 10 per cent of Frances electricity. Haute-Normandie is also the third region for foreign businesses and a preferred location for big industrial groups. It has an exceptional port infrastructure. As for Basse-Normandie, there are plastics engineerHow has the region weathered the financial downturn? We are a highly industrial region, so it has been a difficult time, but we have tried to emphasise innovation and exportation. The British have come to live in Normandy for a long time and do not seem to leave it as easily as they do other regions. What opportunities are there for English-speakers in the region? The following sectors are promising: chemicals, biology, health, aeronautic and logistics/transport. The biology, health and aeronautics sectors are expanding internationally, so they are likely to have opportunities, and the transport and logistics fields are also worth looking at. What advice would you give people trying to start up a business in Normandy? I would start by getting them to contact the CCI in charge of business creation near where they intend living and, if they are facing language problems, put them in contact with the CCI International Normandie either in Rouen or Caen. They can also contact us at the Franco-British CCI for Normandy. We have a special event for owners of British businesses on December 13 at the Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Rouen, along with the different country clubs run by the CCI in Normandy. This will be the occasion for us to launch the UK club for Normandy.

Did you Know?

Cabbage patch
MANY English words come from Norman and replaced their Nordic or Saxon equivalents after the 1066 conquest. Catch is said to come from Norman chacier, to hunt; garden from Norman gardin and French jardin; cabbage from caboche, the Norman word for French chou.

Literary corner
SEVERAL of Frances most illustrious authors are Norman. Corneille, the author of ground-breaking tragicomedy Le Cid, was born in Rouen in 1606. Gustave Flaubert is also from Rouen and the city has a museum dedicated to the author of Madame Bovary. Guy de Maupassant was born at Tourvillesur-Arques in Haute-Normandie. Poet and novelist Raymond Queneau was born in Le Havre in 1903.

D-Day civilian toll

CALVADOS faced the largest toll of civilian deaths during the D-Day landings in June 1944, with more than 8,000 killed in the fighting. 700 civilians died in one night alone in Lisieux and over the summer 2,000 were killed in Caen as the town was turned to dust in the bombings. Altogether 20,000 Normans died in the aftermath of D-Day.

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Whats On June

Summer 2011

Use this map to locate events on our listings pages

Summer 2011

Whats On JUNE

NORMANDY

31

Whats On June
Family
June 3-5 - Open days for public and private gardens around Normandy with workshops, exhibitions and concerts. This year's theme: food from the garden. Friday is for school children. List of gardens at
http://parcs-et-jardins.normandietourisme.fr/articles/rendezvous-aux-jardins-2011-normandie-770-1.html

By Estelle Phillips
wounds. Tasting of edible plants. 14.00 village hall car park (Salle des Ftes), Burcy. 3, children 2.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

June 24 - Circus show with jugglers, circus acts and songs accompanied on the piano. Free. 20.30 salle Mosc (former MJC), Bd Pasteur, Lisieux.
Call 02 31 48 31 85

Music
June 18 - Fte de la Musique et Feu de la Saint-Jean - music festival and Saint John fire. Fire lighting at the foot of the cliff, Le Trport at 22.00.
Call 02 35 50 55 31 or 02 35 50 55 35

Out & About

Every Wednesday guided visits of Honfleur in English, with maritime history presentation and actors, 15.00. Tourist Office, Honfleur. Adults 6, 10 years and under free.
Call 02 31 89 23 30

June 25-26 - American festival (country and western, car and motorbike exhibition, parades and music concerts), Le Trport.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

June 26 - Day hike in the Orbiquet valley. Circuit of 23km, bring a picnic. Start 9.00 in front of Glos church.
Call 02 31 31 72 77 or 06 50 63 83 84

June 18 - Fte de la Musique with choral songs sung by the 'Choeur Grenadine', Saint Aubin's church, Houlgate. 20.30. Free entry.
Call 02 31 24 34 79

June 8 - Treasure hunt to celebrate the 1100th anniversary of Normandy. Teams of 5 max. Questions in French. 14.30, tourist office, Domfront.
Call 02 33 38 53 97

June 11-13 - Mussels fair, beach marquee, Le Trport.

Call 02 35 50 55 31 or 02 35 50 55 35

Nordic Walking
June 4, 5, 18, 19 - Leave 15.00 from Tourist Office (Place du March), Bagnoles de l'Orne. 1.5 hours walk. 6/person. Booking required (max 15 people).
Call 02 33 37 85 66

June 19 - Brass band concert, given by ensembles from Le Trport and Gamaches, 15.30. Forum de la Plage (beach arena). Free entry.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

June 12 - Model aircraft making day organised by a specialized club. 10.00-19.00. Salle des Ftes (town hall), Houlgate.
Call 06 43 61 56 87

June 18 - 6km walk with a biologist around a herb garden. Introduction to the curative properties of plants used as a remedy for coughs, burns and

June 21 - Fte de la Musique groups give musical performances on street corners and in bars

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Whats On JUNE

Summer 2011

Secret gardens open up for all

Stroll round the gardens at Chateau Roche-Bagnoles, home to trees from all over the world UP TO 100 private gardens around Normandy will open their gates to the public this month for the popular Rendez-Vous aux Jardins festival. This years theme is Food from the Garden and hundreds of thousands of visitors are expected around the region. Activities will also be available in many gardens including exhibitions, gardening classes and workshops. One highlight in Basse-Normandie is the Jardin de Clairbois at Brix in the Manche which has a collection of more than 400 varieties of magnolias, heathers and rhodedendrons. The woods on the site also contain sequoias, including one that is 150 years old. Entry is 5 (free for 12 years and under). See www.jardindeclairbois.com The Chateau de Canon has a variety of gardens dating from the 18th century, including parterres and wild copses, canals and waterfalls and a collection of 13 walled gardens. Special events have been organised including guided visits, gardening tips for enthusiasts and a workshop for children. Organic products are also on sale. Visits are free for the under-12s and 6 for adults. Call 02 50 93 65 17 or see www.chateaudecanon.com The full list of gardens taking part will be available online at www.rendezvousauxjardins.culture.fr Later in the month, there is a plant fair in the grounds of the Chteau de la Roche Bagnoles in Bagnoles de lOrne (61) on June 11-12 from 10.00-18.00 with more than 40 stands. Entry 2, free for under 12 years. Call 02 33 37 92 04. Also on June 12-13 is the Fte des Plantes at the Prieur Saint-Michel in Vimoutiers, with 45 exhibitors. Open 10.00-19.00, entry 5 adults, 3 10-18 years, under 18 free. Call 02 33 39 15 15 or see www.prieure-saint-michel.com

around the town all evening. Carentan.

Call 02 33 71 23 50

June 5 - Sale of local products and food, L'esplanade LouisAragon, Le Trport. 8.00-18.00
Call 02 35 86 36 60

Art
All Summer - Exhibition of paintings and sculptures, featuring the work of national and international artists. Chteau de Srans, near Argentan.
Call 02 33 36 69 42

June 29 - Show given by the music and dance school titled the 'History of Tango'. 19.30 Salle Serge Reggiani , Le Trport. Free entry.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

June 1-10 - Photo exhibition featuring the gateways of Le Cotentin region, Halle de la Mairie, Carentan. Open during town hall opening hours.
Call 02 33 71 23 50

Culture/History
June 4-7 - Events to commemorate the 67th anniversary of D-Day landings on Normandy beaches: June 4 - 'Carentan Liberty March'. Procession to commemorate the taking of arms, 15.00, Carentan. Free. Concert by Normandy Jazz Band.
Call 02 33 42 19 86

June 10-19 - Art exhibition, la Salle Normande, Dompierre.

Call 02 33 30 44 09

Other
June 4 - Parade of the Teurgoule and Fallue Brotherhood followed by a meal and dancing at the Town Hall (booking required). Free parade with stalls and tasting of local food, cheese and cider starts 17.00, meal costs 68 and starts at 20.30. Houlgate.
Call 06 78 21 55 44

June 4 - Giant picnic with musical entertainment, 19.30 Omaha Beach. Bring own picnic or buy on the beach. Fireworks on Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer seafront 23.00.
Call 02 31 51 39 52 / 06 45 09 13 16

Summer 2011
June 5 - Battle of Normandy book festival and reconstruction of a British camp with vehicles, artillery and historical setting. 9.30-18.00 Battle of Normandy Museum, Tilly-Sur-Seulles.
Call 06 07 59 46 02

Whats On JUNE

NORMANDY

33

Aire today, gone tomorrow

Comprehensive listings of aires de camping-car can be found online at the site www.airecampingcar.com which has the details of almost 150 stop-off points around Normandy. However, if staying in an ordinary aire is not your thing, France Passion is a very successful scheme that adds an extra dimension to your tour. The initiative sees farmers, cider producers, cheesemakers, foie gras manufacturers, winemakers, artisans and other private hosts offer overnight parking on their land to members, with no charge and no obligation although naturally they appreciate it if you do buy some of their produce. You will receive a warm welcome you may be invited to meet the pigs, goats or cows, There are about 150 motorhome aires in Normandy. Most will have fresh water and waste disposal, with some having electricity

June 5 - Parachute drop in the La Fire wetlands. more than 700 British, American, German and French military parachutists - the largest drop since 1944. SaintMre-Eglise, 14.00.
Call 02 33 21 00 33

June 5 - Concert with music from 1945-1950. Arromanches square, 21.00.

Call 02 31 22 36 45

June 5 - Firework display to music to celebrate the night the Allies arrived. Site of the former costal artillery battery (remains of the historic Atlantic wall), Longues-Sur-Mer, 23.15.
Call 02 31 51 28 28

you could spend the night in an apple orchard, and you may find yourself returning year after year to revisit hosts who

have become good friends. Find out more about the scheme online at www.france-passion.com

June 6 - Ceremonies with commemorations based on 6 June 1944. Morning: Omaha Beach - Pointe du Hoc. Afternoon: Utah Beach.
Call 02 31 92 00 26

Sport Related
June 2 - 5 - Yachting event organized by the Le Trport clubs, crossing to the port of Eastbourne, UK.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

June 7 - Film projection on a giant screen followed by a firework display to music. 22.30 Arromanches main square.
Call 02 31 22 36 45

June 12 - Hikes organised: Mont Saint-Michel to Donville (44 km), St Jean-le-Thomas to -Vaast-laDonville (32 km), Maison Gosselin in Saint est grocer's Cabane Vauban to Hougue is one of theItfin s delicatessen Donville (22km). Normandy. ha
Call 02 33 50 12 91

June 5 - 6 - Automobile rally, Le Trport. Starts 12.00 car park, Salle Serge Reggiani.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

June 7 - Ball, orchestral concert and picnic to celebrate the Liberation (bring your own or buy at the event). 19.00 Place Charles de Gaulle, Bayeux.
Call 02 31 92 03 30

June 25 - Marathon 'La Margantinaise', Domfront.

Call 02 33 38 56 66

shops in and meats and an counters selling cheese at also stocks a th extensive wine cellaros and whisky. Find of calvad wide range e. it on the Rue de Verr

June 11 - 12 - 24hrs of table tennis, Gymnase Alain Mimoun, Lisieux. Free entry.
Call 02 31 32 23 84

Animal Related
June 2 - August 30 (Thursdays) - Horse driving displays outside the grand Cour Colbert, Haras du Pin, 15.00 arrival advised 14.30. 5.
Call 02 33 36 68 68 or 02 33 12 16 00

Talks (in French) and advice available in a 'Plant Clinic'. Entry 2, reduced for 12 years and under.
Call 02 33 37 92 04 or 06 87 44 71 74

Worth Visiting
June 15 - end August (every Wednesday) - Guided tours of the castle and town of Domfront. Meet 15.00 Tourist Office.
Call 02 33 38 53 97

Nature
JUNE 11-13 Normandy Sailing Week in Le Havre (76). The deep, open marina in the Baie de Seine will play host to competitors for a varied three-day programme of yacht racing and evening entertainment back on-shore. www.normandy-week.com June 11 -12 - Fte des plantes de Bagnoles de l'Orne - Plants on sale in the arboretum below the Chteau-Mairie.

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Summer 2011

Whats On

NORMANDY

35

Did you know?

Many rivers to cross

SPECTACULAR: The Pont de Normandie across the Seine INSTEAD of counting sheep when you cant sleep, try counting place-names in Normandy that suggest the presence of a river. Some towns like Mayenne (just outside Normandy, in the Pays de la Loire) are named directly after their river, but there are also plenty of towns sur-Dives, surNoireau, sur-Scieand so on. And where theres a bridge theres usually a river, so include names like Pont-lEvque and Pont-dOuilly. Of Normandys five departments, three of them are named after rivers the Orne, the Eure and the Seine (Maritime). In total almost 100 rivers run through Normandy but the best-known of all must be the Seine. From its source at the Plteau de Langres in the Cte dOr (Bourgogne), the Seine snakes through the Eure and SeineMaritime on its 776km journey to the channel estuary at Le Havre. With its picturesque banks and river traffic, the Seine makes a great tourist attraction but has a tendency to complicate route-planning, because getting across it can add many kilometres to a journey. Every bridge is a relatively recent construction, as during World War Two all Seine crossings were systematically destroyed in an attempt to halt the Germans. The Eure has rebuilt fewer than half-adozen road-bridges over the Seine, while the Seine-Maritime has rather more, including the spectacular Pont de Normandie, Pont de Brotonne, Pont de Tancarville, and the state-of-the-art Pont Flaubert in Rouen which opened in 2008 to become the worlds largest lifting bridge. Alternatively, the Seine-Maritimes eight bacs (ferries) across the river preserve the charms of a bygone era gliding across the sparkling waters on a sunny day with the breeze in your hair is a relaxing, feel-good experience guaranteed to bring a smile to your face.

Saint-Cnri-le-Grei on banks of Sarthe

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Summer 2011

Whats On: JULY

NORMANDY

37

Whats On July
Family
July 5 - Guided tour of the port for children, given by Tourist Office. 15.00 Le Trport.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

By Estelle Phillips

ment festival with open air theatrical performances (French) given in the parks, courtyards and gardens of Alenon.
Call 02 33 29 16 96

July 14 - August 31 (Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun) - The largest display of draught horses in Normandy, featuring the largest and smallest horses in the world. Dressage and driving events, Juvigny-sous-Andaine. 10, 5-12 years 4, under 5 free. Meal (book in advance) + show 30/person.
Call 02 33 38 27 78 or 06 81 49 66 46

July 16 - 17 - Tasting of a giant omelette and market with music and local foods and products. Le Trport.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

July 20 and July 27th Guided street walks with actors, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the town. Clock Gate (Porte Horloge), Vire, 20.30. Free.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

Les Marachers in Rouen

History on your table

Heritage protection group Les Cafs Historiques et Patrimoiniaux dEurope has three Normandy venues in its national list of historic places to eat and drink, all of them in Haute-Normandie. Les Marachers, Place du Vieux March, Rouen (76) For a near-Parisian experience, this 1912 gem is the perfect cafebrasserie. It has a large, stylish, mirrored interior with old prints, oak beams and, of course, a zinc-topped bar, and you can sit also outside and watch the bustle of the market. There is a bistrot menu for 18, including starter, main course and dessert. The cafe also holds jazz nights upstairs. La Chaine dOr, Rue Grande, Place SaintSauveur, Les Andelys (27) Built in 1751, this is a beautiful riverside auberge, where you can eat, drink, or stay. Its proximity to Giverny makes it popular with tourists. The name derives from the chain that used to stop boats from passing on the river they had to pay a toll, in gold, before moving on. Romantic and beautiful, and just a 10-minute walk from the famous Chteau Gaillard. Taverne des Deux Augustins, Place Foch, Etretat (76) This lovely cafe-restaurant-hotel opposite the big market building dates from 1851. It was named after its proprietor and leaseholder who were both called Mr Augustin. Typical Normandy dcor, with shiny copper pots and pans, checked tablecloths and loads of warmth and charm, perfect for a meal or drink after a walk along the stunning local coastline.

Out and About

Every Wednesday - Guided visits of Honfleur in English, with maritime history presentation and actors, 15.00. Tourist Office, Honfleur. Adults 6, 10 years and under free.
Call 02 31 89 23 30

July 28 - Night market and concert. 18-22.00 Clock Tower square, Vire.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

Nordic Walking
July 2, 3, 16, 17 - Leave 15.00 from Tourist Office (Place du March), Bagnoles de l'Orne. 1.5 hours walk. 6/person. Booking required (max 15 people).
Call 02 33 37 85 66

July 1 - August 26 (Fridays) Street art festival, 21.00, Bagnoles-de-l'Orne. Free open air music on stage with varied programme including blues, jazz, reggae and rock, on Sundays.
Call 02 33 30 72 70

Music
Every Wednesday and Saturday night - At the beach, Le Trport: rock, salsa, folk and reggae music with free street entertainment and juggling shows. July 2-17 - 'Les Musicales de Mortagne' - six chamber music concerts, Le Perche. 20, reduced price 15 for 4 or more concerts.
Call 02 33 32 85 24

July 18 - August 24 (except 25 and 27 July) - Musical guided visits in English of old Bayeux, 21.00. Meet Bayeux Tourist Office. 9, 11-17 years: 5, under 10 free.
Call 02 31 51 28 28

July 7 - Nature walk in the fields of the Sainte-Croix Park, Le Trport. Meet 17.00 at entrance to camping-car area. Participation 7.
Call 02 27 28 06 50

July 6 - Free concert with English-language and French songs and accompaniment. 20.30 Le Trport beach.
Call 02 35 50 55 31 or 02 35 50 55 35

July 14 - 4km walk in a botanical garden in the footsteps of Goethe who carried out his studies there. Refreshments and free visit to botanical exhibition. 14.00 Muse de Vire. Adults 3, children 2.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

July 23 - 26 - Urban music festival, Le Trport.

Call 02 35 86 05 69

July 15 - 31 - Street entertain-

July 23 - 31 - 'Festival Autour d'Un Piano' - Piano or piano and violin concerts, 20.45 (July 23

38 4

NORMANDY
en-Bessin quay.

Whats On JULY

Summer 2011
July 3 - Bon anniversaire la Normandie et Vire' - exhibition to celebrate the 1100th birthday of Vire town. Clock Gate (Porte Horloge), Vire, 11.00.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

and 30), 18.30 (July 31) Chteau de Carrouges (Orne). 15, 10 students.
Call 02 33 31 90 90

Call 02 31 51 28 28

book sale, medieval market, crafts demonstrations, etc. Bayeux 10.00-midnight. Free.
Call 02 31 51 60 47

July 13 - Fireworks in the harbour, Le Trport.

Call 02 35 86 05 69

Art
All Summer - Exhibition of paintings and sculptures, featuring the work of national and international artists. Chteau de Srans, near Argentan.
Call 02 33 36 69 42

July 13 - Sand castle competition, Le Trport. Children should sign up at the Tourist Office. Competition on beach at 15.30.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

July 3 - Parade in costume with medieval musical instruments, side shows, games and combats. Retelling the Viking, Saxon and Norman heritage of the city. Bayeux 10.00-19.00. Free.
Call 02 31 51 60 47

July 8 -14 - World Folklore Festival. Dancing, music and entertainment from around the world. Alenon.
Call 02 33 82 75 70

July 9-17 - Exhibition of paintings and sculptures, SaintJulien Chapel, Le Trport. 1518.00. Free entry.
Call 02 35 86 05 69

Culture/Education
July 1 - Sep 18 - 'Exposition Porte Horloge' - exhibition inside the XII and XV century clock tower and original town entrance gate, Vire. Tues - Sat 14.00-18.00.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

Other
July 3 - Fair with rides at the beach, Le Trport. All day.
Call 06 70 42 36 25

July 1 - Medieval parade to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the town's medieval festival and its history, Bayeux 22.00. Free.
Call 02 31 51 60 47

July 8 - Aug 26 (every Friday) - Fireworks over the Tour Vauban, the former coastal defence post. Free. 23.00. Port-

July 2 - Medieval festival with street performers and musicians,

Horse Events at Le Haras National Du Pin (Orne)

Le Pin National Stud is fondly called the Versailles for Horses, and nestles in more than 1,000 hectare in the Orne, Basse-Normandie. You can discover the world of horses through an exceptional heritage handed down since Louis XIV. Guided tours can introduce you to the stables that house approximately 40 horses comprising 10 different breeds, all having the role to promote horse-breeding in France. www.haras-national-du-pin.com Tickets: 10 adults, 6 children. Open 10-18h. Special events this year include: July 1, 19, 26 and 31 Horse-driving displays outside the grand Cour Colbert, 15.00, arrival advised 14.30. 5. July 1 - 3 National hunting championship July 7-10 International show-jumping competition July 14 - 17 Unique horse driving events in the centre of the Haras.

For all events call 02 33 36 68 68 or 02 33 12 16 00

40

NORMANDY

Whats On JULY

Summer 2011

July 20 and July 27 - Drinks and tasting of local products with welcome in English by the Tourist Office. Bocage Virois Tourist Office, 10.30.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

July 31 - August 7 International Cyclotourism Week, Flers (see August listings for events).
Call 02 33 28 88 71

Shows
Every Tues, Thurs, Sat from 10 - 30 July - Free 'son et lumire' (sound and light) shows against the faades of historic buildings with narration of the story of William the Conqueror and the Battle of Normandy (in French). Free. Bayeux and Cabourg Bayeux - Two shows in front of the cathedral and in the courtyard of l'Htel du Doyen each evening at 23.00 and 23.30. Cathedral open for visits 20.30 and 22.30.
Call 02 31 51 28 28

Every Friday and Saturday, July 8 - August 6: Night show with tableaux made by children, retelling an old legend connected with the Priory of SainteGauburge (Orne). Parc de Vigan, Bellme. 11, 12-18 years 8, 4-11 years 4.
Call 02 33 25 23 23

Worth Visiting
June 15 - end August (every Wednesday) - Guided tours of the castle and town of Domfront. Meet 15.00 Tourist Office.
Call 02 33 38 53 97

vranches is well The Scriptorial in Augh it bills itself worth a look. Althoscripts of Mont as housing the manue is much more on Saint-Michel, ther region and some the history of the exhibitions. It excellent temporarya better certainly gave me e early history of understanding of th the region. "orkbooks"

Bayeux goes back in time

Sport Related
July 7 - Table tennis tournament. Under the marquee, Place de la Batterie, Le Trport. Participation 2.
Call 06 09 26 68 46

Every Friday and Saturday, July 1 - September 17 - Free 'son et lumire' shows retelling seven centuries of the cathedral's history (these are in French and English), Ses (Orne). 10, 10-18 years 5,under 10 free.
Call 02 33 28 74 79

Photos: Virginie Meign

July 1-3 The historic town of Bayeux revisits the Middle Ages with the 25th edition of its Fte Mdivale. The event includes costume parades, markets, street shows, knights, a book fair and a medieval ball. Call 02 31 51 58 28 or see www.bayeux-tourism.com for more information.

42

NORMANDY

Whats On AUGUST

Summer 2011

Whats On August
Family
August 1 - 31 (Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun and 15 August) - The largest display of draught horses in Normandy, with the largest and smallest horses in the world. Dressage and driving events, sculpture garden. 15.30, Juvignysous-Andaine. 10, 5-12 years 4, under 5 free. Meal (book in advance) + show 30/person.
Call 02 33 38 27 78 or 06 81 49 66 46

By Estelle Phillips
9/person. 3 days 14/person. Free for under 15 years. Chteau de Carrouges (Orne).
Call 02 33 27 23 78

Meet Bayeux Tourist Office, 21.00. 9, 11-17 years: 5, under 10 free.

Call 02 31 51 28 28

Nordic Walking
August 6, 7, 20, 21 - 15.00 from Tourist Office (Place du March), Bagnoles de l'Orne. 1.5 hour walk. 6/person. Booking required (max 15 people).
Call 02 33 37 85 66

July 1 - August 26 (Fridays) Street art festival, 21.00, Bagnoles-de-l'Orne. Free open air music on stage with varied programme including blues, jazz, reggae and rock, on Sundays (until August 28).
Call 02 33 30 72 70

August 11 - Night market and concert. 18-22.00 Clock Tower square, Vire.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

Out & About

Every Wednesday - Guided visits of Honfleur in English, with maritime history presentation and actors, 15.00. Tourist Office, Honfleur. Adults 6, 10 years and under free.
Call 02 31 89 23 30

August 3 and 10 - Guided street walks with actors, celebrating the 1100th anniversary of the town. Clock Gate (Porte Horloge), Vire, 20.30. Free.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

August 13 and 14 - Mackerel and local foods market. Freshly caught grilled, smoked and marinated mackerel on sale with chips. Place de la Batterie, Le Trport.
Call 02 35 84 66 26

Music
August 5 and 13 - 'Festival Autour d'Un Piano' - Piano or piano, violin and clarinet concerts, 20.45 Chteau de Carrouges (Orne). 15, 10 students.
Call 02 33 31 90 90

August 1 - 24 - Musical guided visits in English of old Bayeux.

August 5 - 7- Hunting and fishing festival with 30 hectares (ha) of demonstrations, competitions and shows. Night shows on Saturday and Sunday, followed by a fireworks display on Sunday.

August 20-21 - Festival de la Terre Agricole Normande. Market with local products, food, crafts, music, farm animals, cider making demonstrations, etc. Covered market, Carentan. Entry: 4, under 18 free. Saturday night concert 28 (under 10 free).
Call 02 33 43 61 03

August 27 - 28 - Orne music festival. Varied programme including Italian baroque, Viennese waltzes, Corsican songs and Czech sacred music. Restaurants and hotels adapt opening times to concert times.
Call 02 33 26 99 99

Soak up the sun in chic Deauville

Photo: Ville de Deauville

THE glamorous seaside resort of Deauville (5) celebrated its 150th anniversary last year. In 1848, the Duke of Morny, a great Parisian figure and Napoleon IIIs half-brother, imagined the future luxury retreat while visiting the then small coastal village of Dosville. He wanted to create a realm of elegance accessible from Paris. A horse lover, he was the prime mover in the construction of Deauville hippodrome. The towns two hippodromes, Clairefontaine and La Touques, are prepapring for the racing season which lasts until the end of August and makes for yet another reason to visit Deauville. www.deauville.org

44

NORMANDY

Whats On AUGUST

Summer 2011

Cool off by the riverside

Admire the waterfalls in the small village of Mortain (12) in the Manche. The River Cance falls 20m into the Slune and the impressive feature has given birth to some prolific vegetation. The main waterfall site is well signposted. Stairs take you down to a wonderful viewpoint looking out over the falls. Follow the deep, lush gorge made by the river for more views. Alternatively, try a leisurely early-evening stroll along the banks of the Seine. www.ville-mortain.fr Lush and green waterfalls at Mortain

Culture/Education
July 1 - Sep 18 - Exposition Porte Horloge - exhibition inside the XII and XV century clock tower and original town entrance gate, Vire. Tues - Sat 14.00-18.00.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

Aug 3 and 10 - Drinks and tasting of local products with welcome in English by the Tourist Office. Bocage Virois Tourist Office, 10.30.
Call 02 31 66 28 50

Aug 21 - Normandy stories and legends (French), Carentan. 14.30 Salle des Ftes (village hall). Fireworks over the Tour Vauban, former coastal defence post. Free. 23.00. Port-en-Bessin quay.
Call 02 31 51 28 28

August 27 - 31 - 'Les traverses Tatihou' - Folk music festival on the island of Tatihou, off the Normandy coast. Tickets 1-32. Ticket office open from July 5.
Call 02 33 05 95 88

Other
All Summer - Exhibition of paintings and sculptures, featuring the work of national and international artists. Chteau de Srans, near Argentan.
Call 02 33 36 69 42

Call 02 33 71 23 50

Sport Related
August 11, 15, 28 - Horse racing, Hippodrome, Carentan (novice cup - "the Green Trophy" awarded on August 11 with election of "Miss Green Trophy".
Call 02 33 71 23 50

Art
August 3 - Painted pebble competitions for children, 14.30, beach arena, Le Trport. Sign-up before at the Tourist Office. Free.
Call 02 33 36 69 42

July 1 - Sep 18 - Exposition Porte Horloge - exhibition inside the XII and XV century clock tower and original town entrance gate, Vire. Tues - Sat 14.00-18.00
Call 02 31 66 28 50

Aug 21 - Normandy stories and legends (French), Carentan. 14.30 Salle des Ftes (village hall).
Call 02 33 71 23 50

Aug 1-26 (every Friday) Fireworks over the Tour Vauban, former coastal defence post. Free. 23.00. Port-en-Bessin quay.
Call 02 31 51 28 28

July 31 - August 7 International Cyclotourism Week, Events in Flers :

Aug 1-26 (every Friday) -

Theme park fun

Festyland (6) on the outskirts of Caen has a range of attractions around the themes of pirates, Vikings and the Middle Ages with rides and roller-coasters. The park even has a train ride dedicated to the Normandy Impressionist movement allowing you to discover the paintings of Sisley, Monet, Boudin, Pissaro, Renoir, Pinchon, Lematre and Guillotin on a ride through a hilly landscape. In the Seine-Maritime, the smaller Parc du Bocasse (7) has more than 20 main attractions which include mini-golf, rides and waterslides. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, book a day of paintball, kayaking and tree-climbing at Woody Park (8) in Fcamp. Festyland: www.festyland.com 02 31 75 04 04 Parc du Bocasse: www.parcdubocasse.fr 02 35 33 22 25 Woody Park: www.woody-park.com 02 35 10 84 83

Bungee-jump off a viaduct

The Viaduc de la Souleuvre (9) in La Ferrire Harang in Calvados is an extraordinary railway viaduct conceived by Gustave Eiffel and built in 1889. It has now been given a second life as a platform for bungee jumping. Rising 60m above the ground is the 140m-long platform built by AJ Hackett in the 1990s, one of the first people to commercialise bungee-jumping, Born in New Zealand, Hackett first got the idea after seeing a video of the Oxford Dangerous Sports Club jumping from bridges with ropes tied around their legs. Hackett became famous after an illegal jump from the Eiffel Tower in 1987. www.ajhackett.com 02 31 66 31 66
Photo: L.HOUSSIN/CRT Normandy

Ride with the Vikings at Festyland

Not for the faint-hearted bungee jumping from the Viaduc de la Soulevre

46 4

NORMANDY

Whats On AUGUST

Summer 2011

August 1 - Themed bicycle rides of 32-85km or 34-114km: 'Tales and legends of Sir Lancelot'. August 4 - Themed bicycle rides of 23-60km or 58-75km: 'Picnic with Eleanor of Aquitaine' (medieval picnic). August 5 - Themed bicycle rides of 22-79km or 32-161km: 'In the footsteps of King Arthur'.
Call 02 33 28 88 71 for all events www.flers-tourisme.fr

Wednesdays August 10 and 17) Free sound and light shows retelling seven centuries of the cathedral's history (French and English), Ses (Orne). 10, 10-18 years 5, under 10 free. August 11 - 14 - 'Camembert au coeur de l'Histoire' - sound and light show retelling Camembert's history from the Vikings to the present day. 22.00. Manoir de Beaumoncel, Camembert. 14, 12-18 years 8, under 12 4.
Call 02 33 67 49 42

Did you know?

Normandys flag stirs local debate

By Maggie Wakefield WHEREVER you look in Normandy, you will see the regions flag as window-stickers on cars and campervans, fluttering outside public buildings alongside the Tricolore and the EU flag, and possibly on the packaging of a certain brand of Camembert cheese. So here is a little test: shut your eyes and see how accurately you can describe it. The answer is not as straightforward as you might think. The first point to clarify is that those beasts you might be picturing in your minds eye are not lions but leopards. The two symbols are often confused: leopards typically have three paws on the ground and a fourth raised while lions are on their hind legs. Most people would say the Normandy flag is two golden leopards on a red background (see flag bottom right). Your leopards may sprout dark blue claws and tongues, or not, according to taste. Sometimes though there The Mouvement Normand says the Olaf cross (top right) is our real flag
Photo: Martin Burns/Flickr

Animal-Related
Events at Le Haras National Du Pin, Haras du Pin (Orne): August 1 - 31 (Thursdays) and 2, 9 and 16 August - Horse driving displays outside the grand Cour Colbert, Haras du Pin, 15.00, arrival advised 14.30. 5. August 18 - 21 - Equestrian competition with pedigree Arab horses and carriage-driving demonstrations.
For all events call 02 33 36 68 68 or 02 33 12 16 00

Worth Visiting
June 15 - end August (every Wednesday) - Guided tours of the castle and town of Domfront. Meet 15.00 Tourist Office.
Call 02 33 38 53 97

Shows
Every Tues, Thurs, Sat from 1 to 27 August: Free 'son et lumire' (sound and light) shows against the faades of historic buildings with narration of the story of William the Conqueror and the Battle of Normandy (in French). Bayeux and Cabourg Bayeux - Three shows in front of the cathedral and in the courtyard of l'Htel du Doyen per evening - 22.30, 23.00 and 23.30. Cathedral open for visits 20.30 and 22.30.
Call 02 31 51 28 28

way up on very Le Nez de Jobourg,Peninsula is a tip of the Cotentin th rambles along spectacular area wi rs'. 'La route des douanieFrench and Normally just the eryone whizzes Dutch visit it as ev to Deauville or from Paris directly down to Brittany. "tazwsk60"

are three leopards Richard Coeur de Lion is understood to have preferred there being three. Suffice it to say that the proper number of cats on the Norman flag has been the subject of much debate. The Mouvement Normand is adamant that this device belongs on a coat-ofarms, not on a flag. They claim the true flag is an Olaf cross, reflecting the Scandinavian origins of the Normans or Norsemen: a gold-bordered red cross on a red background, and preferably no leopards in sight. As a concession the mouvement accepts the Olaf cross flag with two (or three) diminutive leopards in the top left-hand segment.

Peaceful side of regions busiest landmark

MONT St Michel never ceases to amaze, no matter how often it is visited: the crowds, the smells, the babble of different languages. For hundreds of years, the narrow street has been lined with booths and shops selling food and souvenirs, first to pilgrims and then to tourists. Thousands of books have been written and millions of pictures taken. No secrets are left. Perhaps not, but there are hidden pleasures and the odd tiny crumb of information that will add something extra to your next visit. As well as being a place of pilgrimage, this was a fortress. Note how the entrance

Away from the bustle of the Grande Rue lie many surprises down and you are behind the scenes. Go straight ahead and on the right you will find the parish cemetery. Open the iron gate and on the upper level seek out the tombs of the men of the Mont, who fell during the First World War. The little graveyard has another surprise in store. Look down to the lower level; in the corner is a flat, polished stone bearing a signature ADAM. Sculptor, engraver and designer of world renown, HenriGeorges Adam (1904-1967) lies here. A friend of Picasso, his final work was tapestries for Mont St Michel. For all the clamour on the main street, here is an elusive and unexpected treasure the gift of peace.

Every Friday and Saturday, August 1 - 6: Night show with tableaus made by children, retelling an old legend connected with the Priory of SainteGauburge (Orne). Parc de Vigan, Bellme. 11, 12-18 years 8, 4-11 years 4.
Call 02 33 25 23 23

Every Friday and Saturday, August 1 - September 17 (and

is at right angles to the gateway with portcullis, drawbridge and massive iron-bound doors. Any attacker would find it difficult to turn his forces in such a confined space. The bronze guns in the corner are a relic of just such an attack. They were left behind by a defeated English force, hundreds of years ago. Up the narrow Grande Rue, pause to catch your breath by some steps on the left. This is the entrance to the parish church; the abbey itself was for the monks. Although dedicated to St Peter, it is dominated by a dazzling statue of St Michael in a side chapel. Leave by the far door and immediately the noise dies