Why Standards Matter The Role of the Barista

2011 SCAA Sustainability Award Finalists

Straight Shots:

The Issues

Issue

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2010 issue no. 6

a publication of the specialty coffee association of america

a publication of the specialty coffee association of america

2010 issue no. 6

4 Welcome to The Issues Issue

Peter Giuliano Peter Giuliano has a few things he wants to tell you about the coffee industry and theyre not all nice. But theyre true and important, and they could shape the future of coffee for the better. Now is the time to listen and learn.

14 The Specialty Coffee Industry

Shows Initiative Worldwide
Bruce Mullins The Global Coffee Quality Research Initiative (GCQRI) has officially been launchedbut what is it? And what will do it for the future of coffee? Bruce Mullins looks at how the GCQRI hopes to provide a better understanding of the science behind coffee quality and quantity.

6 Why Standards Matter:

feature s

The GFA Example

Mark Inman When non-coffee organizations want to promote and celebrate specialty coffee, thats a good thing. When their submission guidelines dont quite match their goal, it can create confusion for everyone, as it did during the recent Good Food Awards.

16 Coffee and Sustainability

8 In Search of the Holy Grail: Mapping the

Espresso Landscape
Shanna Germain with Kyle Glanville, Tim OConnor and Carlo Odello Espresso is many things to many people, and everything to some people. Here, we pick the brains of three espresso gurus and see what they think about the drinks past, present and future.

Tracy Ging The coffee industry focuses a lot about sustainabilitywhat it means, where it comes from and what the goals are. Now its time to ask the hard questions: what have we truly accomplished?

14

18 Our Top Four: The 2011 SCAA Sustainability

Award Finalists
SCAAs Sustainability Council Every year, the Sustainability Council present the Sustainability Award to promote, encourage and honor the efforts of those doing great work in the fields of sustainability. Discover the four organizations that made this years finalist list and be inspired by their good works.

12 Important or Self-Important?
Tracy Ging with significant contribution by James Hoffman In recent years, the industryas well as many coffee drinkershave come to realize the importance of the baristas role in creating fine coffee. Now that the pressures on, can they continue to succeed without giving in to selfimportance?

The Role and Influence of a Barista

20 High Prices Jolt Coffee Market

Marvin G. Perez Youve probably know that coffee prices have been on the rise for a while, and that theyre predicted to continue their upward trend. With that in mind, Marvin G. Perez helps us make dollars and sense of the coffee commodities market.

in the next issue

Executive Director Ric Rhinehart ricr@scaa.org Executive Editor Tracy Ging tging@scaa.org Managing Editor Shanna Germain shanna.germain@gmail.com Art Director Tiffany Howard tiffany@tiffolio.com
The Chronicle is printed on 100% recycled paper containing 30% postconsumer waste.

18

Whats your passion? Where do you get your morning cup?

22 Cafe Breve: We Ask, You Answer

the Global market

2010/2011 BOARD OF DIRECTORS President, Peter Giuliano 1st Vice President, Tim OConnor 2nd Vice President, Max Quirin Secretary/Treasurer, Shawn Hamilton Directors: Marty Curtis, Nathalie Gabbay, Al Liu, Ellen Rogers, Dr. Timothy Schilling, Paul Thornton, Andi Trindle, Willem Boot Immediate Past President, Mike Ebert SCAA 330 Golden Shore, Suite 50 Long Beach, CA 90802 TEL: (562) 624-4100 FAX: (562) 624-4101 www.scaa.org
The Specialty Coffee Chronicle is published six times a year by the Specialty Coffee Association of America as a forum for discussion and information on industry-related topics and issues. The Chronicle welcomes and will consider for publication articles, columns or firsthand accounts of life in the specialty coffee industry from SCAA members. Opinions expressed in articles and letters do not necessarily represent the position of the SCAA, its members or directors.

Contributors:

Tracy Ging Peter Giuliano Bruce Mullins Mark Inman Marvin G. Perez

Copyright 2010 Specialty Coffee Chronicle. All Rights Reserved.

2 The Specialty Coffee Chronicle

On the Cover: An illustration by Damon Brown, The InkLab.

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CoffeeiliTy and susTainab

Are we having the impact we intend?
by Tracy Ging

16 The Specialty Coffee Chronicle

ustainability has been part of the discourse in the specialty coffee industry almost from the beginning and certainly for a better part of the past two decades. Early on, with vision and leadership bordering on radical, the industry made sustainability part of its mission. The SCAA also encouraged total quality, inclusive of quality of life, quality in the cup, and quality of the environment. To achieve this, the organization outlined more than 40 supporting attributes and actions to guide its commitment to sustainabilityan inspiring but, no doubt, broad set of tasks. In 2005, the SCAA set an even more ambitious goal by signing the United Nations Global Compact, joining the fight to eradicate global poverty. Specialty Coffee was, and continues to be, determined to make a significant difference.
With sustainability firmly ingrained in the value structure, many forged aheadbuilding schools, digging wells, committing to certification programs, developing partnerships and engaging in a host of other activities. Larger players developed private standards and say what you will about those approaches, the concept of selfregulation is pretty remarkable in comparison to other industries. Specialty coffee was also among the first to embrace market-oriented labels, a handful of not-for-profit organizations emerged and have since grown considerably, and it seems nearly everyone has a project. Specialty coffee has inarguably been vocal and prolific on issues of sustainability, yet there are big, looming questions about impactare we doing good, are we doing enough, and how do we know? To some extent, those questions are unanswerable because as a collective, we simply dont know. Certainly there are exceptions within specific program and projects, but as a whole, specialty coffee has lacked strong metrics and tools to gauge its impact. In all fairness, that is a state not unique to coffee. The world has struggled with this issue, but that is changing. There is an increased focus on metrics and organizations are dedicating themselves to the task. The Committee on Sustainable Assessment (COSA), a volunteer-driven, global consortium of institutions using participatory methods, is pioneering the scientific measurement of sustainability in agriculture. Other organizations such as People 4 Earth are also developing frameworks. Also, the launch of SCAAs Sustainability Tracking and Reporting Tool (START) will bring six-figure technology to specialty coffee and profoundly address the tool side of things. It seems the industry is well poised to get a better picture of how well its doing with regard to sustainability. Regardless of the findings, I think we all know the job is not yet done. Given price trends over the last decade (with the exception of this year), relatively low market adoption of certifications (estimated at less than 10 percent according to The North American Organic Coffee Industry Report, 2010), and studies about hunger in the Coffeelands, we will likely confirm there is much, much more to do. With complete reverence for what has been accomplished, this is also an opportunity to reassess. What have we learned? How can we be better? If we really wanted to get our act together around standards, what would that look like? It is important to look at what new partnerships can be forged, examples that can be modeled, and what new goals should be established. As one example, SCAAs Sustainability Council is examining the beer industry on the heels of an announcement by British brewers, committing to reduce CO2 emissions by 17.5 percent and increase water efficiency by 11 percent by 2020. Another potential model is the wine industry, which is now studying use of certifications and addressing consumer education, trying to reduce their confusion over the plethora of choices/claims relating to sustainable wine and strengthen access to market for certified wines. And, of course, our own foray into deeper research through the Global Coffee Quality Research Initiative will likely unlock many new opportunities where sustainability is concerned. While there is cause for optimism, if for no other reason than the idea that issues as challenging and complex as these need a dose of faith, it is also important to be honest and open to the possibility that maybe specialty coffee didnt know enough about sustainability and development to engage in some of the activities it engaged in, that we set out on a very big task without a proper definition of success, that some businesses co-opted the message without making due sacrifice, that our definitions are murky, and that maybe we are in not position to suggest what a farmer needs. These are the tough questions well be addressing at this years Symposium in order toas Peter Giuliano referenced already in this issuebreak down so we can break through.

Specialty coffee has inarguably been vocal and prolific on issues of sustainability, yet there are big, looming questions about impact are we doing good, are we doing enough, and how do we know?

With more than 15 years of marketing experience, Tracy Ging has spent the bulk of her career in the coffee industry, where she has worked on both sides of the supply-chain, developing a deep understanding of the market and the trends driving it. Tracy currently serves as Deputy Executive Director of SCAA.

register Now for THE EVENT

Expo & Symposium april 28 May 1, 2011 www.scaaevent.org

The Specialty Coffee Chronicle 17

Caff Breve We Ask. You Answer.

Do you brew your own coffee every morning or frequent a favorite

coffee shop?

and Midwest Barista School, Holland, MI

I used to have an employee that made me a doppio ristretto every morning and bring it to me in my office. Now I just jump on the bar make it myself. You know, us coffee people get pretty dang picky. ~Jack Groot, JPs Coffee I consider myself extremely lucky to be able to make wonderful coffee at home, and then go to work and make more coffee all day. Coffee at home is always special though because I always make lattes for my husband in his favourite mug, and nowadays my four-month-old daughter gets an espresso cup full of foamed milk too so she can join in! That coffee is a family ritual and tastes all the better for it. Ive even created my own blend, named after my daughter - Mirandas Blend. ~Annabel Townsend, Doctor I love making my own each morning. The challenge of pulling a great shot each morning is something that I look forward to. ~Eric Williams, The Withered Fig

Coffees Caf, Darlington, UK

Oakland, CA

I make a shot of espresso every morning. -Phillip Yip,

former head barista, Tullys

Both. I start my morning at home with a French press or K-cup of Tullys and then stop by a Tullys on my way to the office for a double short non! ~Tom T. OKeefe, Founder and Roast (every 48 hours), grind, and then press. I like the flexibility of changing my coffee varietal based on how I feel that week or day. ~Phillip Halley, San Jose, Calif.

22 The Specialty Coffee Chronicle

What are your passions (other than coffee of course)?

Giving back. I have been asked to set up a coffee station for Dress For Success in the spring of 2011. It is a non-profit organization that provides interview suits, confidence boosts, and career development to low-income women. I will give out free coffee at this luncheon event. ~Sherry Dunbar,
Coffee Guru, Manchester, PA

RVA, and RVA Barista Jam, Richmond, Virginia

After 10 years in the coffee industry I have found that passion is the operative word in describing the complete lives of most of us who choose this career path. It is rare to come across a coffee pro who doesnt throw his or herself at life with reckless fervor. Im not sure whether the coffee industry just attracts people of that creed or working with such a passion driven product hones our edge so to speak. Personally, I relish in my deep passion for anything I can make or do with my hands. I become especially passionate about things that bring other people joy. Food is my muse. I get lost in the process from beginning to end. I spend hours in farmers markets and specialty food stores hand picking ingredients, developing recipes and flavor combinations that will excite the palates of my friends and family. I plan ways to invoke nostalgia, excitement, surprise, humor and whimsy just with a simple taste. Food is a boundless palate of colors with which to paint and there is no more personal way to affect a person than creating something they consume. Food, like coffee and wine, brings people together and begets conversation. Around these things we inherently become social and this fact lends to the passion surrounding them. Without over romanticizing the point, our passion in general as coffee professionals brings us together, often to do the same things. The next time youre out enjoying your pastime I challenge you to ask around, Im willing to bet youre not the only bean slinger at the party! ~Stephen T Robertson, Blanchards Coffee, Coffee Culture Its about the people. My passion for the people. The most common denominator I have found yet with my colleagues in this business. ~Joseph

Robertson, JoLindas Coffee and Wine Shop & Sasquatch Coffee Roasters, Stevenson, Wash.

I am passionate about excellence in general. Whether its doing up the dishes, planting a garden, spending time with my family, or running my business, I like for things to be done with excellence in effort and enthusiasm. I wouldnt say that I am a perfectionist, but rather a life enthusiast. ~Sarah Fey, Busy Bean Espresso, Shelton, Wash. Passion is a heated word, and often accompanies things which yield beautiful and rewarding resultsas long as youre willing to sweat, bleed, and work hard for them. For the last year after discovering the Rose City Rollers of Portland, ORthe passion Ive developed for Roller Derby is immeasurable. And it has taught me more about life and success than I was prepared for. The ability to hold myself accountable for my own successes and weaknesses. The strength of body and mind to push myself farther than the last time I faced the same challenge. The power of community, and what I find I am willing to do for the things and people I love. If the word passion could appear as more than 12-point font on a computer screen, it would be throbbing, with the weight of loyalty, perseverance, love and respect. Which seems to go hand in hand with the world of coffee. So I cant help but think Im on the right life path. ~Karen DApice aka Napoleon
Blownapart, World Cup Coffee Roasters, Portland, OR
The Specialty Coffee Chronicle 23