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Zadar
Summer 2019

Tune InTo
THE Summer
Events not to miss,
locations that bliss

N°16 - complimentary copy


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Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword 4 Family Fun 34


A zesty editorial to unfold Fun, adventure and entertainment

Top 10 Summer Events 5 Zadar Surroundings 35


A pick ’n’ list to brighten your stay The top getaways

Architecture & Tourism 9 Top 10 Places To Shop 50


Remaking the Adriatic - new Croatian architecture Priceless places and buys

Restaurants 13 Arrival & Getting Around 52


We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

Nightlife 22 Maps
Are you ready to party? City centre map 54-54
City map 56-57
Sightseeing 24
Discover what we ‘ve uncovered Zadar Basics 58
Keepn it real

Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo Archives


While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places
like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare,to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down.
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 5
Foreword
Zadar is an ancient city built over three thousand years
ago that has withstood some amazing trials and tribu-
lations. Originally a city protected by well-kept walls,
it houses an abundance of history from being the first
Croatian University (1396) to its protection by four guard- Publisher
ian saints; Zoilo, Simeon, Grisogone and Anastasia. A Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
day’s walk around the city will blow you away with the ISSN 1334-9228
churches, chapels and monuments that have stood the Company Office & Accounts
test of time. Yet, there is a modernisation to the city with Višnja Arambašić
new features and attractions to spruce up the cultural and Zadar In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
tourist offer of the city. Named as the ‘2016 European Best Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28
Destination’, Zadar is home to multitudes of food and mu- croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
sic festivals, cultural events, concerts, sports gatherings, Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
national parks, bays and more. Clubs, bars and restaurants Editorial
are always abound and it is really up to each visitor to Editor Višnja Arambašić
choose the sort of holiday they prefer; one of sun and fun Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan
to peace beneath trees, or flair and dare! Whichever you Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Andrea
choose, we wish you a memorable time in one of Croatia’s Pisac
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
golden cities. Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Researcher Katarina Buljan, Anamarija Alfirev
Design Bojan - Haron Markičević
COver story Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
Cover © Triathlon Long Island, Sali Tourist Board Archives
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Raise a sweat this September 21st with Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić
this 21km middle distance triathlon, Tri- zagreb@inyourpocket.com
athlon Long Island, combining a swim, Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copy-
cycle and run amidst hidden coves, right cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication
ancient ruins, and pebbled beaches… may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the pur-
pose of review, without written permission from the publisher and
A true venture for adventure! copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under li-
cense from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.
(+370-5) 212 29 76). Zadar (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible
for any information which might change after publication. Please
check with the event organisers if in doubt.

6 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Privlaka’s Fishermen and Sabunjari Night, July 2019, Privlaka Tourist Board Archive

Top 10
Summer Events
ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER
EVENTS IN ZADAR AND SURROUNDINGS
WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS...
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 7
Top 10 Summer Events

14.06 - 22.06 » KvartArt Zadar 2019


Violet Whirl, cast ,cut and polished glass, 2016,
This festival of creative urban living throws into action the
Petr Stacho, The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives
minds of young creative thinkers who present their ‘know
how’ on his to revitalise abandoned public spaces. In ad-
dition, multitudes of concerts,performing arts, workshops,
screenings, games, and other cultural events can be en-
joyed under the one flag! The line-up for evening gigs is
impressive…Qwww.kvartart-zadar.com.

28.06 - 01.08 » The 25th Zadar Summer


Theatre Festival
Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks
and there is something for everyone. From local to na-
tional theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors
give it their all on stage to present some enthralling per-
formances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curios-
ity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that
tell the tales of these plays. All in all, theatre and perfor-
mance is truly alive in this part of the globe.QC‑3, Wari-
ous city locations, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

29.06 - 03.07 » Mediteraneo – The 2nd


Mediterranean Puppet Festival
After last year’s success, puppetry thrives again this
summer with theatres from Slovenia, Italy and France.
Choose from the Slovenian Nova Gorica play ‘Petar
Kuštravi’, Italy’s Gioco Vita Theater and their perfor-
mance ‘La donna di Porto Pim’, and the ‘La Pendue Pup-
pet Theater’ with their performance ‘Le cri quotidien’.
The Zadar Puppet Theatre’s performance is ‘Victor or the
Children in Power’. Entertainment for all ages!Qwww.
klz.hr.

09.07 - 08.08 » The 59th Musical


Evenings in St Donat
If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting,
then this international music festival which combines music
and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The
event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists
as well as renowned performers of chamber music from
06.05 - 21.08 » In Honour abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural
of Nature events on the Zadar calendar. Q Various locations across
Czech artist and sculptor Petr Sta- city, www.donat-festival.com.
cho presents a selection of his works
pertaining mostly to his newer series 11.07 - 13.07 » Full Moon Festival
ranging from 2013-2019. Stacho’s love On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva
for glass has seen his works travel the is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into float-
world with notable elements that in- ing markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the
cludes geometric shapes, sharp lines famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and
and outlines that depict seemingly mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve
random cracks. His sharp cuts, grinding, everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and
polishing and heating at high tempera- traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to
tures make his glass sculptures stand Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of
out!QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable
Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, event.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV,
www.mas-zadar.hr. www.zadar.travel.
8 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Top 10 Summer Events
24.07 - 26.07 » Zadar Jazz & Blues
Summer in Zadar always jazzes up mid-July and for three
nights, three top artists will perform. The opening night
sees the Cuba Vocal Sampling, followed by Joseph Bowie
& the Funky Bastardz, and the final night has blues legend
Eric Bibb & Band. It all takes place on the beautiful open-air
terrace of the Museum of Ancient Glass. QD‑2, The Mu-
seum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1,
www.hnk-zadar.hr.

27.07 » Millenium Jump


When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of
locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millen-
nium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and
on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino ef-
fect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from
the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and
Social Science.Qwww.zadar.travel.

01.08 - 01.10 » Memento mori. Funerary


Rituals and Customs in Ancient Rome
The mighty Roman Empire had many laws, even laws to
do with religious burial ceremonies which were incinera-
tion and inhumation, both of which were recorded on the
ancient necropolises explored in Zadar. The public gets to
see the richness of the rituals and objects inside graves
which create a wider image about the social and econom-
ic situation as well as the religious understanding of the
social community. A historian’s paradise!QC‑3, Archaeo-
logical Museum, Trg opatice Čike 1, www.amzd.hr. Rector‘s Palace, National Museum, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

06.05 - 12.08 » Glass Sculptures by


Petar Hranuelli
Croatian sculptor Petar Hranuelli is an eminent
name in artistic circles having held over 50 solo and
100 group exhibitions. Hranuelli is a master sculptor
of stone and now uses such techniques with glass.
His exhibit consists of over one hundred sculptures
in small glass format with the goddess Venus and
nudes a common theme. Translucency and mythol-
ogy are fused in one!  QD‑2, The Museum of An-
cient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.
mas-zadar.hr.

Petar Hranuelli, Pogled u nebo, 2018, Photo by Nikša Lalin, The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

10 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Architecture & Tourism

REMAKING THE ADRIATIC -


NEW CROATIAN ARCHITECTURE
Adriatic architecture is all the rage these days, with fans
of modernism yearning nostalgically for the fantastic ho-
tels built along the Croatian coast in the 1970s and 1980s.
The tourism-driven building boom of
St. Donatus’ Church,
those years gave Croatia’s seaside an
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
easily identifiable, contemporary image.
The Sea Organ,
Nowadays a new generation of architects
Zadar Tourist Board Archives
are renewing the region’s reputation as
a place for innovation and good design.
The advertising slogan of the Croatian
National Tourist Office famously used to
read “Croatia: The Mediterranean as it
Once Was”. Maybe “Croatia: the Mediter-
ranean of the Future” would be a suitable
replacement in the years ahead.

The question of contemporary Croatian


architecture – what should it look like, and what should artistic showcase, with various projects designed to show
seaside cities do to improve public space for locals and the future direction of Adriatic art and design.
visitors alike – is a big local issue in the historic port city
of Rijeka. As a major industrial hub, Rijeka brings to the One of the central planks of Rijeka 2020 is the Sweet & Salt
forefront all the questions about how industrial heritage strand, a programme which focuses on a particular post-
should be repurposed. As a designated European Capital industrial strip of the city and looks at ways of bringing
of Culture in 2020, Rijeka has also taken on the mantle of new functions to”lost” urban spaces,nurturing new ideas
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 11
Architecture & Tourism
in urban planning at the same time. The project will con- Three years later Bašić added Greeting to the Sun, a large
tinue a process that has already begun, that of transform- disc set into the paving stones of the coastal promenade,
ing the area beside the river Riječina and the Molo Longo and consisting of light-sensitive cells that absorb solar
pier into a lively pedestrian strip. energy by day and emit a kaleidoscopic array of colour-
ful light come night-time. Together with the Sea Organ,
Arguably the most exciting part of the project is the situated a few metres away, Greeting to the Sun has trans-
planned Ecumenical Pavilion, a non-denominational formed this part of the Zadar seafront into a lively social
house of prayer and meditation designed by the legend- forum for mingling, moving and hanging around. Zadar,
ary Zadar architect Nikola Bašić. Taking the form of a small- suddenly catapulted into the premier division of forward-
white rotunda enclosed in a spiral, the pavilion is inspired looking resort towns, has never looked back.
by the sweeping form of the Milky Way, and is designed
to focus the mind of the visitor on the infinite. As well as Bašić has also helped to change the face of Šibenik, de-
being the perfect example of Bašić’s visionary style (and signing the seductively curvaceous blob that is the Hotel
more on him later), it also serves as an ideal metaphor for D-Resort, complete with its rooftop gardens. Bašić is the
Rijeka’s tolerant, multicultural, multi-faith and no-faith brains behind the (yet unrealized) plans for transforming
identity. Placing it in a former industrial zone beside the Šibenik’s transport network, with a huge escalator linking
Riječina river lends this part of town a whole new image. the shoreline Dolac district with the hilltop St Michael’s
Fortress, and a cable-car ascending to the fortress of Bar-
Leader of the Sweet & Salt strand Idis Turato has invited one and St John.
the cream of the Croatian art and
design world to come up with Šibenik is a good example
ideas for 2020, although it is as yet of a city that has pushed its
unclear which of them will actu- post-industrial woes into
ally get built. Turato himself has the background thanks
already made a profound mark on to sound strategic think-
the Adriatic architectural scene, ing: Šibenik’s Banj beach,
designing (with erstwhile studio on a stretch of coastline
partner Saša Randić) the quite that was previously out of
extraordinary Museum of the bounds due to nearby fac-
Apoxyomenos in Mali Lošinj. De- tory installations, is an ex-
spite being housed inside a 19th- emplary piece of modern
century villa, the museum boasts landscaping that serves as
an almost space-age interior, with a useful model for other
the statue of the Apoxyomenos it- Adriatic destinations.
self housed inside a white capsule.
Randić and Turato were also re- Indeed there is talk of
sponsible for the amazing Fran Kr- resurfacing rivas and
stoFrankopan elementary school making-over marinas all
on the island of Krk, together with over the Croatian coast.
its futuristic sports hall and ac- Greeting to the Sun, Zadar Tourist Board Archives Plans for Baška on the is-
companying public plaza. Turato’s land of Krk envisage a new
work for private clients – the boldly cubist Villa Gumno on promenade behind the beach and a floating performance
Krk, and the audaciously space-age Nest and Cave House stage; the island of Susak has just opened an all-new sea-
in Volosko – have adorned the pages of architecture mag- front walk. Betina, already transformed by the opening of
azines around the globe. the Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding, has a newly paved
port area that combines boat moorings with a piazza-style
However it is arguably Nikola Bašić who is the doyen of public space.
the new Adriatic style, having won worldwide fame for
designing the Sea Organ on the seafront at Zadar. Com- Perhaps the most illustrious exponents of the new Adri-
pleted in 2005, this innovative use of public space consists atic architecture are Zagreb studio 3LHD, who redesigned
of organ pipes mounted inside a broad stairway that leads maritime Croatia’s most famous public space – the Riva
down to the sea. Activated by lapping waves, the pipes in Split – as well as building hotels in the Istrian resort of
produce a soothing if not always musical polyphony that’s Rovinj, and an impressive sports hall in the Rijeka suburb of
the perfect accompaniment to a spot of maritime medita- Zamet. Judging by the neat geometric terraces of 3LHD’s
tion. The organ really gets into its stride when the sea is brand-new Hotel Park in Rovinj, Adriatic modernism has a
choppy. Given the famed beauty of Zadar’s sunsets, it’s bright future.
a wonderful place to sit in the evening, when it attracts
quite a crowd. By Jonathan Bousfield
12 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

18.07 - 20.07 » Kali Fisherman’s Nights


- Tunuara
The largest fishing feast in the Zadar region is on the
island of Ugljan and in the town of Kali. Head down
for the rich three-day program where traditions of
old are revived such as the parade of fishing boats
across the Zadar Canal, which is also a trademark of
the event. The authentic cuisines cooked up in ac-
cordance to local recipes are second to none!QKali,
Ugljan, www.kali.hr.

Kali Tourist Board Archives

14 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Croatian
2Ribara
A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow KORNAT
FINE DINING RESTAURANT
courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian
classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for
Liburnska obala 6
lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!!QC‑3,
Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, www.2ribara.com/
zadar/en/. Open 12:00-23:00. (90 - 150kn). A­P­X­B

4 kantuna Gourmet Kalelarga


This informal modern restaurant and pizzeria located on an Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables,
atmospheric square has proven to be a hit. It serves every- this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus
thing from salads, bruschettas, pastas and risottos to fish and dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. Try out
a particularly imaginative offering of grilled meats. The des- the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables
sert menu is especially popular with guests.QD‑3, Varoška or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass
1, tel. (+385-) 091 313 53 82, www.restaurant4kantuna. of wine made by locals from the Zadar region. For dessert,
com. Open 12:00-23:00. (50 - 210 kn). A­B­J don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio
pie. QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, www.
Bon Appetit arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00-23:00. (80 - 140kn).
A lovely modern interior with a rustic/pastel feel that A­P­G­X­B­W ­i
oozes comfort! Bon Appetit is all about the food and wine
on offer and that means lots of Dalmatian and Mediterra- Groppo
nean tradition with modern interpretations. Open day and Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta,
night, visitors can pop in for refreshments or for a meal. grill, seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Veg-
Fish, meat and dessert varieties are oh so popular here etarians are also well accommodated. We recommend
as well as top quality wine.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC‑3, Široka
HARBOR print 23-5-19.pdf 1 23/05/2019 13:29
4, tel. (+385-23) 33 55 50, www.restaurant-zadar.com. ulica 22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81/(+385-) 091 462 94 14,
Open 12:00 - 23:00. From June Open 12:00 - 23:30. (65 - www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (75 -
200kn). A­P­G­X­B­W ­i 200kn). A­P­B­S­J­6­W ­i

CM
Outstanding, exceptional & unique...
MY
food, service & surroundings...
CY Not necessarily in this order.
CMY
Welcome in Harbor, enjoy your
K meal and have a good time in the
most different Cookhouse & Club in
Zadar.

Obala Kneza Branimira 6, Zadar

+385 (0)23 301 520, +385 (0)91 450 3501


visit us 
www.harbor.hr

facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 15


Restaurants
Harbor Cookhouse & Club
Another gem restaurant off the city port which is
newly decked with old ship and submarine parts! The
cuisine is a fusion of Mediterranean and Peruvian with
ingredients from local producers. Dishes such as Oc-
topus with cream of Kalamata olives or Chicken sliced
marmalade la Parmigiana are top sellers. Desserts are
equally as good! This combined restaurant/lounge bar
also has live performances and DJs for entertainment.
QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 30
15 20, www.harbor.hr. (80 - 300kn). A­P ­G ­X ­
B­E ­W ­i

Kaštel
Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion)
in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine
and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish,
homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams.
If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant
Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the
luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB‑2, Bedemi za-
darskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, www.hotel-
bastion.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (60 - 205kn). A­P­G­
X­B­L­W ­i
Kavana Danica Archives
Malo misto
The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), mosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dal-
lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, at- matinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www.
malo-misto.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 170kn).
A­P­G­X­B­W

Pet Bunara
This charming restaurant greets its guests with an al-
luring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious con-
temporary dishes, like ravioli  and cold white fish with
artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh oc-
topus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter,
that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great.
During this summer season, many dishes are served
with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce,
to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real
treat!  QD‑3, Stratico ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10,
www.petbunara.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (75 - 150kn).
A­P ­G ­B ­S ­6 ­W

Proto Food&More
Proto is turning heads with its excellent reviews on so-
cial media thanks to the all-round experience offered.
Informed and friendly staff, simple soothing decor, a
Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine with copious portions and at
reasonable prices. Open from sunrise to sunset, you may
need to book to get a seat here. Check their Facebook site
for specials, traditional Thursdays are a hit and the menu is
pleasantly diversified with wholesome meat to seafood to
burgers to pašticada to gnocchi to risotto and much more.
QD‑3, Ulica Obitelji Stratico 1, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 31.
Closed Mon. Open 16:00-24:00. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­
T­B­S­J­W­K ­i
16 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

Bruschetta
Ethnic The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’
Maguro restaurant & sushi bar and with quality products from the local Zadar region
Asian and Mediterranean fusion at its best! This is the city’s first on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of
ever sushi bar offering curry dishes, soups, ramen, sushi, des- bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as differ-
serts, fish and meat dishes. Special emphasis is on local produce ent types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića
in regards to veggies, truffles and wine. Yet, the highlight is on 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, www.bruschetta.hr. Open
the local tuna, bred and caught in the nearby Kali tuna farm. 12:00-23:00. (60 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W
QC‑3, Borelli 10, tel. 023 313 870, www.maguro.hr. Open
12:00-23:00. (60-165 kn). A­P­G­T­B­J­W
Konoba
Bistro Pjat
Italian Bistro Pjat is a small restaurant tucked in among the tiny
Pašta & Svašta streets of Zadar’s old town. The food is typically mediter-
This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge paint- ranean, with fish, pasta and pizza on offer. Bistro Pjat was
ing of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls. recently awarded the “Smiling Sun” for being the best
As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta restaurant/tavern in the city. With daily specials and an en-
dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, ticing regular menu, Bistro Pjat is not to be missed.QC‑3,
octopus salad and many more delicious options.QD‑3, Stomorica 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 39 19. Open 11:00-22:00;
Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, www. closed Sun. From June Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 17:00-
pastasvasta.com. Open 12:00-22:00. From June 15 Open 23:00. (75 - 155kn).
12:00 - 23:00h. (40 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W
Rafaelo
Salsa Rossa On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special
Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pizza’s menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au na-
made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other turel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi.
Italian specialties. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as
on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih well.QH‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33
18, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14, www.salsarossa.eu. Open 53 49. Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 350kn). A­P ­G ­X­
11:00-23:00. (40 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­W B­S ­L ­W
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 17
Restaurants
Skoblar then this is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23)
Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to 25 18 59, www.zadarjadera.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (40
be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they - 100kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W
serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods
cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croa-
tian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too. Lamb
QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would
Open 08:00-23:00. From June Open 08:00-23:30. (50 - otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend
150kn). A­P ­G ­X ­B ­S ­J ­6 ­W ­i hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms
the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s
Stomorica much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, be-
Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the cause the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong
oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby
healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today, it’s a beauti- Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places
ful place to eat out: still traditional in style, the menu to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and
has been expanded to include most classic seafood around Zadar.
dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a
big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and Sabunjar
singing nights on Friday evening. A Zadar favourite for Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.
generations.QC‑3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road
46, www.stomorica.com.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (50 - from hypermarkets Studenac and Getro.QJadranska 99,
70kn). N­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­S ­J ­W tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, www.restoran-sabunjar.hr.
Open 07:00-22:00. From June Open 07:00 - 23:00. (33 -
Zadar - Jadera 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W
A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell
tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. Tamaris
You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Char-
will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and coal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies,
intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide
selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO‑2,
Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, www.tamaris-
Taste of Italy in the heart of zadar.com.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­
the old center. G­X­U­B­L­6­W
Try delicous pizzas made with
mozzarella cheese, focaccia Seafood
bread and other Italian
specialties. Foša
One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its
Enjoy breakfast, lunch or romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little
dinner on romantic terrace. Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among lo-
cals for great fish.QD‑4, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel.
(+385-23) 31 44 21, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00-23:00.
(140 - 270kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­S­J­W

Niko
Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is lo-
cated on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb
choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid
or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the
best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for
fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-
23) 33 78 88, www.hotel-niko.hr. Open 12:30-24:00. (90
- 190kn). A­P­G­S­L­6­W

Taverna Diklo
A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that of-
fers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra
large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly
praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it’s
18 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants

best to book in advance for prime positioning.QF‑3,


Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35. Open
11:00-24:00. (60 - 350kn). A­P­G­B­S­L­W

Pizza
Mamma Mia
Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the
road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area,
this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and eco-
nomical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are
a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you
get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around
town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its
four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time
we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full any-
way. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH‑3,
Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46, www.mammamia.
fullbusiness.com. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. (50 -
180kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W

Šime
A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for
superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for
great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking
and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of
the sun.QG‑2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel.
(+385-23 ) 33 48 48, www.restaurant-sime.com. Open Maguro restaurant & sushi bar Archives
11:00-23:00. (45 - 135kn). N­P­G­X­B­S­L­6­W
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 19
Restaurants
Tri bunara
This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains The First Lady of the
a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered
tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty
AdriaticS
of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and
it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Trg tri you can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine.
bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat, A staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for genera-
Sun 12:00-23:00. (45 - 79kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­ tions, sometimes looked down upon by those who
6­W ­i think paying ten times more guarantees ten times
more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her
rightful place as the queen of the sea.
Out of town They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than
Boškinac right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in
This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and res- seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan
taurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy
tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the
every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive gulls. Try this at home - use plenty of good quality,
menu with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba strong, extra virgin oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines out-
(tavern) has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines. side the fish market for 10kn.
Pricey but worthy!QŠkopaljska ulica 220, 53291 No- A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in
valja, Pag, tel. (+385-53) 66 35 00, www.boskinac.com. a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto
Open 12:00-22:00. (340 - 880 kn). A­P ­G ­X ­B ­L­ twigs if you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them -
6­W ­i leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only,
and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your
Griblja fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and
Named after a traditional local farming tool, this two storey red wine.
old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully restored When the festa is in town, you’ll have the opportunity
and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific, nicely ar- to try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a
ranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes choc a block good konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you
full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70 kuna). Great wine can try any number of alternative ways to eat these
selection and extra rooms can cater for private parties.QTrg little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten
Ruševac 18, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 44 32, www.griblja. cold in a paté or a salad.
com. Open 07:00-24:00. (69 - 149kn). A­P­G­B

Restaurant Kaštel, Hotel Bastion Archives

20 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Kod Guste
A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmo- FOOD & Drink
sphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore JULY » A feast of mussels in Novigrad
recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink). Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat
QRudina 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03. Open yourself with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you
16:00-23:00. (65 - 250kn). A­P­G­B­W can handle. Novigrad has long been known for its
mussels as they were exported to other parts of
Konoba Pece Europe after WW2. These days, any connoisseurs of
We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas shellfish claim that the mussels from this area are
in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The the best in the Adriatic; delicious and full of meat.
homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, QNovigrad, www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr.
who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of
local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes 21.07 » Šokolijada
are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham
hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just and bacon, this international and gastronomic event
before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps
Drage 2, Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is
33 14 03. Open 16:00-23:00; closed Mon. From June 15 all about the process of salting, spicing, marinating,
Open 16:00 - 23:00. (80 - 350kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­ smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce
S­V­L­6­W with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good
fun. It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for
Kraljevski Vinogradi some, a hearty meal for others!Qwww.nin.hr.
Located in Punta Skala in central Dalmatia, Kraljevski vi-
nogradi (the Royal Vineyards) gets its name from a royal 02.08 » The Festival of Salt
deed from the 11th century that bequeathed the vineyard The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s
to a Benedictine monastery from Zadar. While the vine- world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is pro-
yards today are less than a decade old, the traditions and duced ‘au naturel’, whilst keeping the local flora and
connections to history have remained. Royal Vineyards fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas,
uniquely specializes in premium grape varieties from Dal- individual plants and animals from the area, different
matia — Pošip, Plavac Mali and Crljenak.There’s no doubt salt crystals, the tools used back in yonder to those used
you will leave their tasting room and tavern with an un- today, processes and the panning of salt from the sea to
forgettable experience!QPunta Skala bb, Petrčane, tel. the salt shaker, salt in cosmetics and skin care, and that’s
(+385-23) 64 41 93, www.kraljevski-vinogradi.hr/en/. just a pinch of salt in regards to what can be seen.QThe
Open 13:00-24:00. Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop, Ilirska cesta 7, tel.
(+385-23) 26 47 64, www.solananin.hr.
Pineta
Pineta is a sprawling mediterranean restaurant located in 05.09 - 07.09 » Zadar Craft Beer
a fragrant pine forest a few kilometres outside of Zadar. Festival 2019
Two years ago the restaurant was redesigned to better If beer brings cheer, then bring it on! For the fifth year
accommodate increased demand and to raise the profile running, Zadar is hosting this fabulous festival with a
for their savvy clientele. While still specializing in meat and jam packed programme to ensure not a dull moment
fish, Pineta has created family-friendly weekend menus at is to be had. Join in on the three days of fun, music
affordable prices, and also help to organize and host all and plentiful craft beers available as there has been
manner of festivities.QKožinska cesta 122, Kožino, tel. a boom in Croatia and abroad in the ‘craftsmanship
(+385-23) 28 32 99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12, www.pineta. of beer’. Be part of the movement!QA/B/C‑4, The
hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 13:00 - 24:00. Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.r-oh-
(75 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­6­W koncept.hr.

Portus Beach Club & Restaurant


The newest sensation on Croatia’s shoreline is the Portus
Beach Club, a luxurious venue comprising of two restau-
rants; a bar and kids play area. The complex is central to
one of the best marinas on the Adriatic which has also
been awarded with the prestigious Blue Flag. There are
deck chairs and parasols for sunbathing on the pontoons
and the venue oozes in style and class!QBibinje - Sukošan
1, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 20 03 50, www.d-marin.com/ Nin‘s šokol, Photo by Marin Stulić, Nin Tourist Board Archives
en/homepage.aspx. Open 08:00-23:00. (150-500kn)
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 21
Restaurants
Restaurant Mare
With over 40 years in the hospitality business, this family
run seafood restaurant serves up a mega treat for all its vis-
itors. It is actually located on the island of Katina,within the
Telašćica Nature Park, on the island of Katina. ‘Mare’ hap-
pens to be the oldest restaurant in the Kornati archipelago.
Open for breakfast through to dinner, the menu is high on
seafood and grilled meats, plus pastas, pates and risottos.
Deserts too!QMala Proversa 13, Sali, tel. (+385-) 098 33
26 97, www.restoran-mare.hr. Open 09:00-24:00. (150 -
750kn). A­B­6­W

Local dishes
Kaštradina
Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the
dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called cas-
tradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the
basket-hilted schiavona sword. Anyway, kaštradina in the Za-
dar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in
sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in
winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish
that is great washed down with strong local red wine

Maraschino liqueur Photo by Dean Dubokovič, Boškinac Pag Archives


Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new
technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home,
a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The com-
pany was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino
liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cher-
ries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry
is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for
eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is
great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basket-
wrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century,
Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

Salt fish
In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.
Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by ev-
ery family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has
been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people
know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingre-
dient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.
Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very
little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but
it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of
eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe
centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.
If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok,
keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere
else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry
and most tuna is landed here.

Samphire
At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you
spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves,
break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang,
22 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Cogito Coffee Shop
Creating top quality coffee and all that is deemed ritual
about coffee! They have brought their winning concept to
Zadar with cocktails, craft beers, teas and natural juices as
added refreshments to soak up that summer sizzle.QC‑2,
Poljana pape Aleksandra III B, www.cogitocoffee.com.
Open 08:00-20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 23:00. Sep-
tember Open 08:00-20:00. Closed Mon. P­B­S­J­W

Danica
A sparkling modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popu-
lar because of their tasty homemade cakes and pastries
made on site. Opposite the National Theatre.QC‑3, Široka
ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www.restorani-zadar.hr.
Open 07:00-01:00. A­P­G­B

Forum
A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is
blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most
famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmm-
mmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18. Open 07:00-24:00.
A­P­G­X­T­B­W

Lovre
The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel,
the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and
experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs
chances are it’s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23)
Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cook- 21 26 78. Open 07:00-01:00. N­P­G­X­B­6­W
ing these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the
wild food movement. The story goes that in the Sec-
ond World War people had little other than samphire
to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantas-
tic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a
delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has
saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its
high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to
prevent scurvy.

coffee & Cakes


Art Kavana
If you appreciate excellent, imaginative cakes you really
must call into this cake shop. The range is frequently re-
freshed with new creations to suit the season, there are
macarons… the problem is deciding what to choose. Cakes
are freshly made and beautifully presented. Coffee and cake,
that most indulgent of rituals. QE‑2, Bartola Kašića 1, tel.
(+385-23) 40 08 00. Open 07:00-23:00. A­P­G­B­W

Coffee & Cake


Since its opening in 2016, the assortment of classic
cakes, croissants and desserts offered have become a fav
amongst the locals. The added distinction here are the raw
cakes that are made and not baked; they are prepped from
natural ingredients and they look so scrumptious that few
can resist. QC‑3, Ulica Braće Vranjanina 14. Open 07:00-
23:00; Sun 08:00-23:00. G­X­B­J­W
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 23
Nightlife
BARS beach bars
Arkada Forty Bar
A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couch- The stunning D-Marin Borik, part of a relatively new ma-
es, very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera rina, is home to the Forty Bar; a new place where people
Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-) 095 371 47 38. Open 07:00- gather for a fine meal or relax for drinks. The terrace views
01:30, Sun 08:00-01:30. B­W by the pool overlooking the Adriatic are breath-taking.
Whether you’re strolling through or docking at the ma-
Backstage Bar rina, the finely decorated Forty Bar is always worth a visit.
Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvig- QG‑5, D-Marin Borik ,Obala kneza Domagoja 1. Open
orating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit 08:00-22:00. A­U­B­L­W­C
of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all
about! Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for Guam
summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the
Hebranga 9, tel. (+385-) 091 222 07 68. Open 07:00- sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.
00:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­E­6­W QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 47, tel. (+385-) 098 981 33
05. Open 7:30- 00:00. From June Open 07:30 - 01:30.
Cafe Gallery Gina N­P­X­B­W
Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery
and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an Porthos
atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00- Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight
01:30. A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right
on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular
Famous Bar beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to
Open from morning till night, ‘Famous’ is a beach bar, pub, watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too.QO‑6, Karma 7a,
restaurant and night club, all in one. It sits along the Borik Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Open 07:00-00:00.
Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it with a large N­P­G­X­B­W
terrace and sun loungers also. Choose from over 200 types
of beer from across the globe and an amazing range of Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo Archives
wines.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62
23/(+385-) 092 288 33 10, www.famous.adria-bars.hr.
Open 08:00-01:30. A­G­X­T­B­V­L­6­W

Guma Bar
Recently opened, this bar operates seven days per week
and as soon as you walk in, be ready to be enveloped by
the lovely bright surrounding colours. Once a cinema, this
renovation sensation is a cool place to hang out and chill.
The music ranges from the 80s and beyond and as the sun
sets, the amplifiers begin to rise in volume.  QB‑3, Široka
ulica 18, tel. (+385-) 097 791 04 53. Open 10:00-02:00.
A­P­X­E­J­6­W
Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo
Kult This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach
In the very heart of Zadar this café by day and bar by and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the
night is a popular spot for students. There are DJ nights, wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people.
karaoke nights, big screens for sports… Fun, friendly and Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime,
lively. Good cocktails too!QC‑3, Stomorica 6a, tel. (+385-) from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some
099 438 99 63. Open 07:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-01:30. quiet meditation as you sip on your morning cof-
A­P­X­B­J­6­W fee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends
and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the
La Bodega Zadar numerous canopies made of palm branches. While
Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent
great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and sunset, before dressing up and coming out for
trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch a cocktail at night.QG‑5, Obala kneza Doma-
menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of goja bb, www.bamboozadar.com. Open 07:00-
the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.QC‑3, Kalelarga 01:300. N­G­X­T­B­6­W
- Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 40, www.labodega.
hr. Open 07:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i
24 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife

Lounge bars
Ledana Lounge bar
Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then
head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is
‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world,
it has a luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is
ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one - S P L I T - Z A D A R -
of three terraces where you can indulge in some live
music and concerts as well as huge theme party nights.

PLACE
QD‑3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-)
098 630 760, www.ledana.hr. Open 08:00-00:00; Thu,
Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00. From June 20 Open 08:00 - 04:00.

TO
A­P ­X ­B ­6 ­W

The Garden Lounge


Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this
spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the
coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly
minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a per-
fect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of
chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub,
latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi
zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, www.
thegarden.hr/the-garden-lounge. Open 10:00-01:30.
A­X ­U ­B ­J ­6 ­W

Clubs
Podroom
Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club
and place for party goers who wish to live and let live!
Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it
can receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for
a dozen people max… plus a VIP room. So come and
join in the action!QE‑2, Obala kralja Tomislava 1, tel.
(+385-) 099 749 84 51, www.podroom.club. Open Fri,
Sat 01:00-06:00. A­P ­G ­E ­J ­W

Svarog Bar
More of a nightclub than a bar, Svarog is on the stone-
flagged Trg pet bunara and is one of the most popular
nightspots in Zadar. The music is mainly R’n’B with a
smattering of house. Very busy at weekends.QD‑3, Trg
pet bunara, tel. (+385-) 095 775 30 09. Open 20:00-
06:00. X­B ­J

Tutta Forza
Until recently, the island of Dugi Otok had no nightclubs.
And now, this brand new club has the lot; a podium, bar
tables, elevated dance floor, urban interior with natural
elements and more. It’s all state of the art! Music wise,
Download FREE
one can expect everything from the 80s through to admiral.hr APP! admiral.hr
current hits as well as a residential band named ’Fish
Factory’. So come on down for a great island party DOMOVINSKOG RATA 49a, SPLIT 4. GARDIJSKE BRIGADE 1, ZADAR
atmosphere!QSali, Dugi otok, tel. (+385-) 099 503 98 * The bearer of Sailing Guide coupon is entitled to 100 kn bonus for first registration
01. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00. (5 x 25kn) at Admiral Casino Split or Admiral Casino Zadar.

facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 25


Sightseeing

Forum, St Donatus’ Church, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Sightseeing
check out the highlights - see
the best of the city in only a
couple of hours

26 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing
Essential Zadar City Walls (Gradski bedemi)
City Forum (Forum) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of
The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its inde-
was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented pendence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant
on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there
area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to were even more fortifications than there are now, but
Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and
stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside
(A second one was taken away and now stands near the doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see
Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage
and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. facilities. On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is
Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point
once stood. One of the most beautiful things about these over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the
remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of
the city.QB‑3. Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2.

City Gates (Gradska vrata)


The city walls have had several entrances knocked St Donatus’ Church
through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. (Crkva sv. Donata)
Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius
as the vital link between the town within the walls and and original in form, it’s not surprising that the
the sea outside them. The Venetians built the Land Gate pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very
- then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit
harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monu- of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the
ments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded
a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, in the 9th century, when it was called the Church
and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. Between the of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six
ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop.
Chrysogonus’ Gate), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory Religious services are no longer held here, but the
of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as
bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge the concert venue for the annual International Fes-
Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, tival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as
and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Fur- ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB‑3, Poljana
ther west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13. Open
gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells 09:00-19:00. June Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, Au-
Square with the harbour area.QD‑2. gust Open 09:00 - 22:00, September Open 09:00-
21:00. Admission 20kn. J
City Lodge (Gradska loža)
Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building
once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.
With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves
as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the
international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and
the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.
QD‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. From June 18 - Septem-
ber Open 10:00 - 24:00. Admission 20/10kn. J

City Sentinel (Gradska straža)


Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance
style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding
stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later
additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic
Section of the National Museum, one of the most impor-
tant collections in the country, and worth seeing for the
rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving
and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household
objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. From June 15
Forum, St Donatus’ Church, Zadar Tourist Board Archives
Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/10kn.
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 27
Sightseeing
St Anastasia’s Cathedral Museums
(Katedrala sv. Stošije) Archaeological Museum
An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dal- (Arheološki muzej)
matia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with On the Forum square is the low, modern building of
many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can the Archaeological Museum, featuring artefacts from
climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive ro- Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to
settes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arch- the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour,
es the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition
for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics,
Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought
and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classi-
a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone cal period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century
ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD).
carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy. Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli
QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts
of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century
glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a re-
construction showing the Forum area in Roman times.
In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of
The Riva Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and
“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the inva-
usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in sea- sion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages,
side towns. When people in Zadar talk about the 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croa-
Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the tian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches
edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra which did not survive the ages.
Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the Archaeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome
19th century, the space you see here was occupied in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections
by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the
invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well,
administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberi-
began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on us’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculp-
top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they tures and portraits that are included at this permanent
completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is exhibition.QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25
beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, 06 13, www.amzd.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August
is the site of the stunning University building, and is Open 09:00 - 22:00. October Open 09:00 - 21:00. Ad-
a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even mission 30kn. J
to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra  
Krešimira IV. Gallery of Arts (Galerija umjetnina)
A permanent exhibition of Croatian art and sculpture
from the 19th and 20th centuries. Particularly of note are
the artworks dating 1945-49, a collection of Baroque sa-
cred art and the works of prominent Zadar artist Franjo
Salghetti.QD‑3, Medulićeva 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 74,
www.nmz.hr. Permanent display relocated to Rector’s
Palace due to renovation of the Museum. Admission
20/10kn.

Museum of Illusions (muzej iluzija)


The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s
a thrill for the whole family. Newly opened in the heart
of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of
Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of
exhibitions that will change the way you see the world
around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You
won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Od-
bora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 03, www.zadar.muzejiluzija.
The Riva, Photo by V. Jednakovic, Zadar Tourist Board Archives com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00.
Admission 70/50kn and for families 200kn.
28 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) The Museum of Ancient Glass
The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural (Muzej antičkog stakla)
insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History De- The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s
partment, Ethnological Department, Department of Zadar housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has
City Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts with its impressive some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.
collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge, Rector’s pal- The museum contains one of the premium collections
ace and visitor centre Minor Arsenal host a number of of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of
current exhibitions as well. In addition to all of this, the goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites
National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels
regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and
Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be pur- essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate
chased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2, Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.
Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36
www.nmz.hr. Permanent display relocated to Rector’s 38 31/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open
Palace due to renovation of the Museum. Admission 09:00-21:00. Admission 30/20/10kn.
20/10kn. J
Churches
Church of Our Lady of Health
(Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja))
In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential
Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health,
one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old
neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site
of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous
painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now
in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver
and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA‑3, Braće Bilišić 1.

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla”


Zadar Excursions Archives
Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de
Pusterla” Stomorica)
Zadar Market Tour The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Cen-
tury) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern
and Cooking Class edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor
Being a harbour city, the trading of merchants with plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses
locals has always enriched the local cuisine, especially (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semi-
the herbs and spices that had come from different circular portal surrounding the central space give it an un-
parts of the world. And when you consider the sheer usual six-leaved clover shape.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.
location of Zadar, a bustling city pocketed along the
Adriatic with islands close by and the hinterland in St Chrysogonus’ Church
the background filled with rich fertile soil, for centu- (Crkva sv. Krševana)
ries recipes had been created, mastered and handed A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, conse-
down from generation to generation. Now this is your crated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monas-
chance to get a feel of being a real ‘Zadranin’ for a tery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while
day by going on a culinary journey where you get to on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and
create your own lunch or dinner recipe. By booking to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one deco-
your place on this culinary journey, the daily schedule rated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple,
includes; coffee at cafe Lovre, a licensed guide, shop- with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in
ping for fresh ingredients from the market needed for 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white
preparation of a traditional lunch, food sampling at marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on
the local market, a welcome drink, tip top chef’s assis- the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.
tance and hints in the kitchen, a glass of wine, and of
course the meal you prepare for yourself. A minimum St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Mon-
of 2 through to 18 people can attend.The price is 442 astery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv.
kn all inclusive! For more information write to info@ Franje Asiškog)
zadarexcursions.com or call (+385-23) 33 72 94. Bon Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic
apetit! Q www.zadarcookingclass.com church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and
Baroque work, and containing some very important art-
30 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Statue of Špiro Brusina St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna)
The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most
the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Bru- popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th cen-
sina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sci- tury, it has undergone alterations until as recently as
ences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior
also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public disappointing in comparison with the other churches.
official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms
member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint
What secrets does that shell contain?QD‑4. inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket
of St Simeon ).QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-
23) 21 17 05.

Landmarks
Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara)
During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city
withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking
water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the
Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby
bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park
serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.
QD‑3, Trg 5 bunara.

Greeting to the Sun


Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in
Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola
Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Bien-
nial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ
project. In making these two projects possible, musician
Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water
hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant
contributions.QA‑3.

Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača)


One of the city’s prized buildings, the 13th-century Rector’s
Palace is located in the eastern part of the Zadar peninsula.
Over the centuries the palace has experienced many chang-
es, both scarce and stylistic. Archaeological research of its
foundations had revealed parts of the building from the Ro-
man and Late Antiquity period to wall structures showing
Romanesque and Gothic layers. This new tourist attraction
Statue of Špiro Brusina, Zadar Tourist Board Archives unites the museum space, its temporary exhibition halls,
and representative halls decorated and conserved in dif-
works. The church was the venue for the signing of the ferent historical styles. It also has a video gallery, concert
Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended and multimedia halls. In keeping to its natural and original
centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the beauty, the Rector’s Palace is now a treasure of the city well
protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of worth visiting.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Open 09:00-
Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in 20:00; Sat, Sun Open 09:00-13:00. Admission 10 - 20 kn.
a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Fran-
ciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Za- The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula)
dar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the
at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It
works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in head- gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian
stones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD‑3,
discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in for- Trg pet bunara.
eign languages can be arranged by appointment.QA/B‑3,
Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68, www.svetifrane.
org/. Open 09:30-18:00. Admission 15 kn.
www.inyourpocket.com
32 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Live music

T +385 97 791 0453


Events

A Široka ulica 18
Exhibitions

GUMABarZadar

The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not
(Gradsko groblje) all that morbid.QR‑3.
Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the
thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned The Petar Zoranić Square
some of the highest quality stonework is on display at Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church
these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you can
view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them is a
stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with only
mali arsenal one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and dates
between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.QD‑3.
Once a part of the city fortress built in the 15th cen-
tury, Mali Arsenal has recently reopened in its restored The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje)
original form but with a changed interior which is Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique:
now a high-tech Multimedia Centre. Visitors can learn the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Sim-
about Zadar’s fortifications through play and explo- ple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside,
ration across four different levels. The first level is all perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles
about ambiance and 3D visualisation. The second level with openings on the quayside above. The movement of
uses games and motion sensors and the third level is the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size
educationally based and includes detection and re- and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit
search using interactive modules on the multi-touch and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the
screen. The fourth level encourages visitors to discover sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s
the history of 15 places in the old city centre via a mo- famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air.QA‑4, Obala
bile application - a virtual guide through Zadar forti- kralja Petra Krešimira IV.
fications. The visitor becomes a researcher and once
they complete all the tasks, they can share their social
networking accomplishments. 3000 years of history Parks
taught in the new age and in new ways! Qwww. Queen Jelena Madijevka Park
nmz.hr. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. From (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka)
June 15 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinc-
tion goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 33
Sightseeing
(Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells bones and one of the only three circular churches in the
Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz world to bragging rights for hosting a visit from the late
Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and Pope John Paul II.
admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in
Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar
was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful (Zlato i srebro Zadra)
for.QD/E‑3. If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus.
If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold
Vladimir Nazor Park of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s,
(Perivoj Vladimira Nazora) where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Sec-
Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian ond World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious
writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s big- Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia.
gest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and
was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including
Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia). Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stun-
Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of ning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th
Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire
to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes,
a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver
an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three thread. QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/
years after it was completed, and the park was named af- (+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun
ter him – against his wishes.QE‑3. 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon


Religious collection (Srebrna raka sv. Šime)
The city of Zadar has four patron saints, when you’ve got In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on
a group like that watching over you you’d better believe the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze
that the city’s going to have some pretty intricate religious angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protec-
artifacts and artwork. They’ve got everything from martyr’s tor of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of
Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the fin-
est examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside
and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life
and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant who was
shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Ven-
ice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill,
and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses
taking care of him that they would find something inter-
esting in his documents. They found an inscription of the
powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local
priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the
true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared
to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since.
QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open
08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat.

The Monastery Museum of St. Mihovil’s,


Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej
samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca
trećoredaca)
There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Fran-
ciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila,
franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but
it’s another location which hoards and cares for a spec-
tacular religious collection. Among some of its most note-
worthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Sup-
per as well as several ornate statues.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 11,
tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20/(+385-23) 35 00 21. Open 06:30
- 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.
34 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing

Explore the world of illusions


An Interview with Roko Živković - Owner of Museum of Illusions

rotating cylinder in an effort to make graphs. Still, I would single out the
the next step - on a completely flat Ames or Infinity Room, but it is also
and stable surface! interesting to try the various options
available for the Upside Down Room.
ZIYP: What are the best locations Make sure to capture one photo for
for photography in the museum? memory in the Vortex tunnel and the
Roko: The entire Museum is ex- Chair of Illusion. It only takes a bit of
tremely ‘photogenic’ and our visitors imagination to take superb photos
are very creative in taking photo- and establish great memories!

Roko Živković, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

ZIYP: Dear Roko, can you briefly


tell our readers what to expect
when visiting the Museum of Illu-
sions in Zadar?
Roko: When visiting the Museum of
Illusions in Zadar you will experience
a social and fun trip into a world that
enchants all generations! It is a per-
fect place for new experiences and
enjoyment with your friends or fam-
ily, the biggest in this part of Europe.
And despite children enjoying it the
most, it is also a place for parents,
couples, grandmas and grandpas! Vortex, Museum of Illusions Archives

ZIYP: How much time does


one approximately need to go
through the entire museum and
have fun whilst doing it?
Roko: It takes one hour to see the en-
tire Museum of Illusions, but since we
also have dilemma games and a di-
dactic program scattered around the
museum in several places, those who
are interested in our brain teasers and
jigsaw puzzles will often stay longer.

ZIYP: What is your favourite ex-


hibit?
Roko: If I have to choose one, it
would perhaps be the Vortex tunnel
because of the whirlwind illusion that
it creates. The Vortex will completely
overpower you and make you strug-
Museum of Illusions Archives
gle really hard to walk through the
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 35
Family fun
Buggy Croatia Off-Road Tours more fun again.  Of course, you can have your adventure
Why not try something new this summer, with Zadar’s customised to suit your needs. Want more water, have
buggy tours? These tours are exceptionally flexible, and more water. More mountain? That can be arranged. The
can range in duration from 2.5 hours, to the full day! only limit is the number of daylight hours in the day! Can
See the coast, the nature parks, go up Velebit and revel be combined with other extreme and outdoor activities
in the vistas! Try it all!  There’s the Safari Tour, off-roading such as kayaking, hiking tours of hard to reach spots,
the backroads and trails of in-land Zadar. Here you’ll en- etc. Perfect for Team Building if you think office morale
counter rugged terrain is on the wane!    Qtel.
by Croatian standards, (+385-) 091 112 21 00,
and of course there’ll be www.buggy.hr. Open
some opportunity to dip 09:00-20:00. From June
your feet in the water if Open 08:00-20:00. (1400
you choose to speed off - 2500 kn).
towards the coast. 
How about the Adven- Fun Park biograd
ture Tour? This 3.5 hour by mirnovec
tour takes all that is the One of the newest at-
Safari Tour and adds a tractions to this part of
little more. This includes Croatia is the opening of
more extreme terrain, so this Gardaland style Ad-
expect some bumps and Fun Park Biograd by Mirnovec Archives venture Park in Biograd
jolts, and maybe even na Moru. Based on other
some muck and mud!  The Velebit Tour will take you up to famous world entertainment centres, patrons will be
the mountain in question, a UNESCO World Heritage site. able to enjoy 24 attractions divided into three areas:
This is the largest mountain in Croatia, and is home to over Pirate City, Wild West and the Universe. Each thematic
2000 plant species. The only way you can get up here is on park is jammed with entertainment games, hospital-
foot (not recommended for amateur hikers), on horseback, ity, souvenirs, events and concerts. Perfect for a day
or by buggy. The views from here will be unbeatable. This out!QJankolovački put 9, Biograd n/m, www.funpark-
will take up most of your day, at least 6 hours of fun and biograd.com.

36 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Telašćica Nature Park, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives

Zadar Surroundings
don’t make mistake of missing some
of these great places in zadar’s
surrounding areas
Zadar Surroundings
Top Sights
Asseria, Benkovac, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, Zadar Tourist Board
Photonet Archives

Galevac, Preko Tourist Board Archives

Asseria Lunj Olive Grove


At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are (Lunjski Maslenik)
the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilome- Located in the very north of the gorgeous
tre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans island of Pag, in the Novalja area, the Lunj
set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Olive Grove stretches over 24 acres and
Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles has been intact for centuries making it a
along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later true rarity in its own right. There are natu-
occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a mu- ral wild olive trees called Olea oleaster
nicipality with a governing council. The golden era of linea with more than 80,000 altogether,
Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) out of which 1,500 are 1200 years old
tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman on average and the oldest is 1600 years
Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is old. The Lunj Olive Grove is unique in the
from the 11th century. You can also see remains from world because of the large numbers of
the days when this whole area boasted influence and old wild olive trees that have remained
might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin together for thousands of years. A real
lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens gem in Croatia’s proud heritage!
into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water
for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here
stands a fine example of medieval religious architec-
ture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the Sakarun - Dugi otok
site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort Looking for that picture perfect beach! Then look
at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica. no further as Sakarun is one of the most beautiful
QBenkovac. beaches in the Zadar area. It is situated near the
towns of Veli Rat, Veruni, Soline and Božava and its
white sandy beach stretches 800 meters in length.
Sakarun, Photo by A.Gospic, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives
A string of pine trees surround the beach which
also has two eateries. Jump on board the tourist
train which leaves Božava and Sakarun every two
hours!Qwww.dugiotok.hr.

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Zadar Surroundings

Climb Paklenica, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives

Galevac (Školjić)
If you decide to go to the island of Ugljan, make
sure to visit the Inventory Collection of the Mon-
astery of St. Paul the Hermit. The monastery
complex was built on the island Galevac (Školjić),
situated opposite the village of Preko, on the island
of Ugljan. Legend has it that the monastery was
founded by the followers of St. Paul in the 14th
century, whilst the construction of the monastery
took place during the 15th century. The inventory
collection of the monastery consists of more than
56 items.

Paklenica National Park


The Paklenica National Park lies just north of
Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two
streams,the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve
their way through the soft limestone leaving
gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating
rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The
scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly
lush due to large quantities of pure spring water,
allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flour-
ish. The park is a favourite destination for hikers and
climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the
walk from the park entrance through the Velika
Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut
(about 2 hours), though there are many more de-
manding routes. The park administration publishes
excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is
available – reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16
36 or e-mail: planinari.paklenica@gmail.com. There
is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.
np-paklenica.hr). Starigrad, the town at the park’s
entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a num-
ber of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.
QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel.
(+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, www.np-
paklenica.hr. Open 06:00-20:30. Ticket 30 - 60/20
Nature Park Telašćica Archives - 40kn.

Nature Park “Telašćica”


Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one
of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an
unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok – it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 8km deep inlet dotted
with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay – the water is warm and you can swim
there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible
treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the
park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.QSali
X 1, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96, www.pp-telascica.hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00
inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 5000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance ticket from
the mainland costs 20 - 40kn.
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Zadar Surroundings

Saljske užance
The Saljske Užance (Sali Festival), is a
festival which has been taking place, at
Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since
1959, during the first weekend of ev-
ery August. It was created in order to
preserve the traditional customs, folk-
lore costumes and cuisine of the local
islanders.The festival begins on the
Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on
which day they hold traditional ‘don-
key races.’ In addition, at this unique
event, you can listen to performances
by, Tovareća mužika, a famous musi-
cal group from Sali, which made the
2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage
of the Republic of Croatia.   Qwww.
dugiotok.hr.

Saljske užance, Sali Tourist Board Archives

Vrana Lake Nature Park


This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since
Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and
aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The later
is only allowed outside borders of the Ornithological reserve which takes
up the northern part of the lake. The park is encircled by more than 50 km
of bike trails and thus popular among the bicyclists. Biking routes get hilly Nin Salt Works Archives
on the eastern coast of the lake. The visit to the Park makes a nice break
from the hubbub of the coast.QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel.
(+385-23) 38 31 81, www.pp-vransko-jezero.hr/hr/. Offices in Biograd
Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours
refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake
Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 21:00 which
includes weekends. Entrance 20/10 kn.

Ibis, Vrana Lake Nature Park Archives

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Zadar Surroundings

Solana Nin
Solana Nin has shared a
turbulent history; from Ro-
man emperors who would
use salt from Nin at feasts
in juxtaposition to the Ve-
netians who shut down the
Solana as it was competition
to their rival salt pans. Today,
a Roman gate still stands as
testimony to the age of the
salt pans and it is positive to
note that salt production is
in full swing these days; 55
hectares is used and is posi-
tioned between five Croatian
national parks, indicating
the Eco Certified purity and
unspoiled natural surround-
ings of the area. The Solana
also has a historical Museum
and souvenir shop where you
can buy the highly sought
‘Salt Flower’.QIlirska cesta 7,
Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21,
www.solananin.hr.

The Northern Velebit National Park


With impressive peaks and chasms, karst landscapes and impenetrable for-
ests, the Northern Velebit is a mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats,
which is why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The
Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for an active holiday. Among the
best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical
Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac.  Zavižan and
Alan have open grassy spaces, thick forests and huge limestone boulders,
surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika
region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the
Velebit flora. The Premužić Trail traverses the entire Velebit range, passing
through incredible karst landscapes, and is an incredible feat of engineer-
ing. At Alan you can stay in renovated shepherds’ huts, experience the tra-
ditional way of life and learn about the natural environment. The renova-
tion of the huts has made possible the reintroduction of livestock farming
as a measure for preserving biodiversity.  To lean more and buy entry tick-
ets, Velebit House, open all year, is an information centre located in the vil- Lubenovac, The Northern Velebit National Park Archives
lage of Krasno. An especial attraction is the experience of entering a chasm
using a special “lift”.  QKrasno 96, Krasno, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr.
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Zadar Surroundings
are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls
North of Zadar and the many valuable and historical monuments.
Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Some of the archeological highlights include two original
Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’,
of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings. (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the har-
Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic bour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st
gems have their very own story to tell. century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of
Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy
Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest
Nin cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.
three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their
who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer hol-
control, the town had flourished as it was an important har- iday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommoda-
bour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and develop- tion on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments,
ment of import, export and migration attracted merchants holiday villas and small idyllic camps.
and other settlers to the area. A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the
The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visi- ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical
tors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical per-
places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of sonnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing
picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings. mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical
The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shal- and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy
low lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located natural environment and it includes bathing and swim-
on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can ming in warm sea water.
enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that noth-
blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates ing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings
built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form.
Dugi otok, Pantera and Veli rat Bay, Photo by Boris Kačan,
What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent his-
Zadar County Tourist Board Archives
torical structures entwined with the natural ambience of
mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway.

Nin Salt Works & Church of the Holy


Cross (Solana Nin & Crkva svetog Križa)
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a stagger-
ing three thousand years. It was initially founded by the
Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans
gained control, the town had flourished as it was an im-
portant harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea – the growth
and development of import, export and migration attract-
ed merchants and other settlers to the area.
Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled
with the essential elements that have seen the production
of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this
day.
Some of the archeological highlights are located in Nin.
Such as the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th
century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral
in the world.QNin.

Nin Tourist Board


QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+385-
23) 26 42 80, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, Au-
gust Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Novigrad
Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer),
Photo by Stipe Surac, Nin Salt Works Archives a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same
name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and
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Zadar Surroundings

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Zadar Surroundings
before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.
Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad
has been modernized. It has several restaurants and ca-
fes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.
Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has
been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty
wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman
of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King
Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were
murdered there. During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it
was an important point of Venice’s defense against the
Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47.
When the Venetians retook the town the castle was
substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of
1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs
also held the town for two years. There is another spec-
tacular view of the modern day town and the sea from
the ruins, which are accessible from several trails. The
easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of
some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.
Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about
10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the
castle.

Tourist Office of the Municipality of


Saljske užance, Sali Tourist Board Archives Novigrad
QTrg kralja Tomislava 1, Novigrad, tel. (+385-23) 37 50
51, www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00,
Closed Sat and Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 15:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Zaton
This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for
many visitors and is located between the two historic cities
of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape
for a family holiday and action packed vacation because
of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports
activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for
its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears,
Pilgrimage of gratitude to Zečevo, Photo by Ivo Pervan, Nin Tourist Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it,
Board Archives remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far
back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout
the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by
Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually
develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks
had withdrawn from the area.
One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard
motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on
a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circu-
lar bases and one rectangular niche as well as the dome
above its center. The church was built with traces of the
Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning
of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome
during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower
was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.
The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the
Lubenovac, The Alan Shepherds’ Huts, The Northern Velebit National
tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in
Park Archives
1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to
44 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Zadar Surroundings

defend Nin from Turkish raids. Zaton Tourist Board


The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54
Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and 61, www.zaton-zd.hr. June Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, Au-
extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains gust Open 07:00 - 21:00.
of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable
object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century)
which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes South of Zadar
until the 16th century. In addition to the historical build- South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find
ings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where
looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake
everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private ac- in its present lively and romantic Riviera.
commodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment
hotels.
Biograd n/m
The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important
is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and sur- political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.
rounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripa-
for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst tetic – travelling throughout their territories between their
also making most of the numerous sporting activities avail- power bases – often smaller towns, since larger cities such
able including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventur- as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd
ous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most
in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline important moments in Biograd’s history was the corona-
is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, tion of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 – the first
an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined
backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable under a single crowned head – this time, by treaty.
dream getaway.
You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Bio-
Zaton Holiday Resort grad’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date
QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true
www.zaton.hr. Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It
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Zadar Surroundings
was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20,
Croatian state and built the country into a military power tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd.com.
rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun.  July and Au-
one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians gust Open 08:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00,
attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20/10kn.
Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history
Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St An- nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula
astasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by
a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside. the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside
promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attrac-
Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which tively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the
has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the
presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a
ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s
Peka, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives
best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You
can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a
host of other amenities. The pinewoods extend further, pro-
viding a healthy and scented environment with a number
of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path
through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as
Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suit-
able for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded
beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”,
while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach.
Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.
Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well
equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn
to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your
hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend
is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neigh-
bourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka,
Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko
jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water
supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Na-
ture Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such,
it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is
very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a
30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the
north of the lake. There’s a peaceful campsite which has a
great fish restaurant. It’s a nice break from the hubbub of
the coast.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Kath-
erine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old
lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if

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they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers
entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique
lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island,
of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous
Europe. horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too
hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exception-
Biograd n/m Tourist Board ally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white
QPut Solina 4, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches
82, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and
Sun. From June Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best
way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements
and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to
the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to
Islands Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay
Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spec-
places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are tacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm
somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends
more delightful to discover. abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with
five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife
that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a
Dugi otok kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised,
Although it’s ea sily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local
“Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of wine. Paradise indeed.
those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in
high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attrac- Dugi otok Tourist Board
tive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94,
from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival www.dugiotok.hr. May Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat
called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh and Sun. June Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat
grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July and August Open 08:00
in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.
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Zadar Surroundings

This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green,
low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli
and Mali Iž.
In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying
terracotta pots that have been made here in the same
way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Za-
dar market every day, and it was traded along the whole
Dalmatian coastline. Predrag Petrović, known as Pepi,
mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is now the
island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has been up-
held since 1530. The most characteristic feature of Iž pot-
tery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on leather
and baking it on an open fire.

Zadar Tourist Board Office


QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00-14:00, Sun,
Sat 08:00-13:00.

Pag
Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it
are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like
the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti West-
Triathlon Long Island, Sali Tourist Board Archives erns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s
not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean.
But that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
Ist & Molat
Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having There are many other weird and wonderful things about
3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” form-
carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry ing lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an
a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans
are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any
Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral
and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the
coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Br- island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and
gulje, where the ferry docks. herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.
Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat
sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly
for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncom- valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A
mercialised. good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little
like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be
Zadar Tourist Board Office surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend
Qtel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home

48 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Zadar Surroundings

made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recom- aces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good
mend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag restaurants.
island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you
have the chance. In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as
Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is
The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace mak- the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the
ing. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facil-
the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, ities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from
watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number
day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making. of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Za-
Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it greb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s
is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products. answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours,
Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some
- expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high
the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all
a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where
is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white
supports a vital cottage industry. pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the
island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the
In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near
Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village,
to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned and follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last
symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walk- bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the
ing through the streets, you intimately feel the life that rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crys-
goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking talline, lagoon-calm sea.
church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He
combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renais- Pag Tourist Information Centre
sance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. .QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, www.
The town has a few other interesting churches and pal- tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00-22:00.
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 49
Zadar Surroundings
Rava
Pašman Tiny Rava is sited between the islands of Iž
and Dugi Otok. Shaped like a figure of 8 with
You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge
two large bays, it has two tiny settlements,
from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon,
about 100 inhabitants, one shop, one rather
the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-
good restaurant, small coves suitable for
lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are
swimming and a limited amount of private
a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with
accommodation. If your aim is to escape far
a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Do-
from the madding crowd, peaceful Rava may
minius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a
well be for you
12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited
on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman Zadar Tourist Board Office
consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land QRava, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66.
or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even
stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head
to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great
lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon,
there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr),
which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Tkon Tourist Board


QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, www.tzo-
tkon.hr. May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun.
From June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pašman Tourist Board


QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, www.pasman.hr.
Open 08:00-12:00; closed Sat, Sun. July, August Open
08:00 - 20:00.

Silba, Olib & Premuda


These small green islands with one village apiece, each
necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the Rava, Photo by Boris Kačan
usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from
Zadar (see “Getting around”). phere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music,
including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the
Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings),
and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmos- and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the
lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your
way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic
enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball.
Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches,
some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they
are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual
monument – a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta)
built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife
could look out to sea and know when he would return (and
know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit
less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalma-
tian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually
it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned
pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and
rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say
Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made
on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff.
Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery,
Muline, Ugljan Tourist Board Archives
and five churches including the Church of the Assump-
50 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Zadar Surroundings

tion of Mary, where you can see a document written in of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office
the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in which Croatian was or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you
first written. to the other side of the island where you come to excellent
beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy.
Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach
an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv.
and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green
expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fan-
houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and tastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from
clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway. pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the wa-
ter. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadro-
Silba Tourist Board linija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko. On
QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, www.tzsilba.hr. From August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the
June Open 10:00 - 22:00. Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and eve-
rybody complains about how bad the weather is these days!
A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby
Ugljan church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the
That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly
when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be
hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The seen fishing there to this day.
island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning
oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main ac- Kukljica Tourist Board
tivities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, www.
there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun.
settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carry- June Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. From June 25 -
ing the day’s harvest. September Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a Preko Tourist Board
great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, www.
the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number preko.hr. Open 08:30-14:30; closed Sat, Sun.
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 51
Top 10 Places To Shop

Barrel Wine Store


If you devour a fine wine, then this store is
just for you. The concept is driven by the
staff’s passion for wine production, noting
the specifics to each available wine that will
best suit your mood or pallet. You can get
an authentic Croatian red or white, or even a
champagne as a memoir or to take back home.All
in all, the city of Zadar is all the richer with the open-
ing of the Barrel Wine Store, which promotes regional
wines to every customer. QK‑4, Ul. Stjepana Radića 6c,
tel. (+385-) 091 613 35 52, www.barrel.com.hr/. Open
08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun.

Bibich
A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet
products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel.
(+385-23) 25 02 46. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August
Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

Borovo
Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures
and exports new collections as well as redesigned
classics such as the already popular Startas. There is Bo-
romina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best
to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian
souvenir or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23)
25 13 37, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-
15:00; closed Sun.

Croata
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and
more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts sev-
eral entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that
much more special.  QD‑2, Jurja Barakovića5 (Cedulin
Palace), tel. (+385-23) 20 70 79, www.croata.hr/in-en/ Croata Archives
frontpage. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed
Sun.

Marina Kornati Archives

52 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com


Top 10 Places To Shop

Galeb
Feel like shopping! Then keep an eye out for this Croatian
manufacturer of quality clothing products traditionally
known for conventional and classical underwear. Today,
the company also has a clothing line aimed at a younger
audience following the latest trends in design. Another
range is geared towards the Hajduk Split Football Club,
with clothing merchandise also available.QC‑3, Borelli
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 69 57, www.galeb.hr. Open 08:00-
20:00; closed Sun. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00. A

Gligora
Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of
Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most
recognised cheese. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića
5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat
07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.QN‑5,
Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23)
31 33 96, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 -
14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
A

Guliver
High quality accessories from another Croa-
tian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as
well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With
30 years under their belt, their products are
not only trendy in keeping up with the times
but valued.QC‑3, Široka ulica 10, tel. (+385-
23) 24 04 45, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:00- What can you take
21:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. home from Zadar?

1
Maraska
Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions A Croatian history bestseller
of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other po-
tions to soften your vocal chords and your general view
of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate 2 Some cheese and puina from Pag

Karamana 3, tel. (+385-23) 20 88 00, www.maraska.hr.


Open 09:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
3 Marinated anchovies
and sardines

The Ancient Glass Museum Shop 4 Wine from Zadar County

5
Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you Maraska liqueur
can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic
drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass includ-
ing a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2,
Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31,
6 A Croatian tie from Croata

www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. A


7 Glass souvenirs from the
Ancient Glass Museum
The Archaeological Museum Shop
An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the
museum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jew- 8 A replica necklace from the
Archaeological Museum

9
ellery, and simple home decorations made from different
materials, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of Salt from Nin
all, it’s all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-
23) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr/en/. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. N 10 Pag lace

facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 53


Arrival & Getting Around
(+385-23) 66 61 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 -
23:00. July - September 04 Open 04:30 - 24:00.

Jadrolinija
QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, /(+385-23) 25 05 55, www.
jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00-21:00.

Miatours
Catamaran Lines Zadar - Premuda  - Silba  - Olib, Zadar  -
Pula, Zadar - Pesaro.QB‑2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-
23) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, www.miatours.hr.
Open 08:00-16:00; Fri 08:00-17:00; Sun 12:00-16:00. A

aRRIVING By bus
The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old
Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because
the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real
hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garde-
roba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and
costs 4kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face
the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the
platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town:
On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for
Kalelarga, Zadar Tourist Board Archives
the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo
and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets
aRRIVING By boat you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at news stands
Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats buys you two trips.The ticket office at the station is open
dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of 05:40 - 22:00.
the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see
there. Zadar Coach Station
Jadrolinija's international services connect Zadar with Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those
Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge
linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a
boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to growing number of foreign destinations in all points of
the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 -
so it's well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely 22:00.QO‑2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05,
affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when www.liburnija-zadar.hr.
studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These
routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catama-
rans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans aRRIVING By car
and international ferries can be purchased online. For local The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a com-
catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance plete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the
(maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the
major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time
G&V Line Iadera between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending
Lines Zadar - Iž - Rava, Zadar - Sali - Zaglav, Zadar - Sali - on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at
Zaglav - Bršanj, Rijeka - Krk - Lopar - Novalja - ZadarQB‑2, weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motor-
Poljana Natka Nodila 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 33, www. way toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around
gv-zadar.hr/. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 08:30-15:00,19:00- coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid
20:00; Sun 07:00-08:15,16:00-17:00,18:00-20:00. travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear
up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways
Jadrolinija - most currencies are accepted.
QB‑2, Liburnska obala 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 96/(+385-
23) 25 10 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 06:00-22:15.
aRRIVING By plane
Jadrolinija Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km
QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/ southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the
54 Zadar In Your Pocket zadar.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Getting Around
passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h;
ATM. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From May to June 14
terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the fer- and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at
ryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone
to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. Changes in parking prices
cost 25kn. can occur during the summer period.

Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar)


Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb Public transport
and major European destinations. Charter flights during City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old
summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Town with the main coach and train stations and all sur-
Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before rounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office
Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00,
Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, www.zadar-airport.hr. Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two
journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus
(10kn for one trip).
Biking
Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-exist- Liburnija
ent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old
city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to Town with the main coach and train stations and all sur-
another of course. There are a few bike stores around town rounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office
that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00,
for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted. Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two
Option two is the Nextbike system where you can rent and journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus
return a bike at any one of four city locations. The initial (10kn for one trip).QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-)
amount you pay is 79kn and that amount is used as credit 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.
for bicycle rental. Each day users have a 30-minute free ride
available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is
an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr). Taxi
There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to trans-
port your person, for which an equally varied array of prices
Left Luggage apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest
Bagul bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.
Here for a short time and don’t want to carry luggage Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60
around, visit Bagul where you can safely leave your be- kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter
longings. Prices range from 8 kn per hour up to 30 kn for is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.
the entire day depending on the size of your luggage bag
and time of drop off. QB‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III
7, tel. (+385-) 091 956 48 04. May Open 07:15 - 15:15, Fri
07:15 - 16:30, Sat 07:15 - 14:00, Closed Sun. From June
tourist information
Open 07:15 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 20:00. Tourist Information Centre is situated at Cedulin Pal-
ace. This palace’s history spans noble beginnings, con-
Elegance Tours version into a military hospital, a civilian hospital, and
Prices range from 10 kn per hour and up to 90kn for the now, after restoration in 2017, it houses Zadar’s Tourist
entire day.QD‑3, Varoška ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 535 97 Information Centre, the Zadar Tourist Board and Zadar
13, www.luggagestoragezadar.com. Open 07:45-21:00. County Tourist Board. The stone-flagged courtyard
July, August Open 07:45 - 02:00. with its wellhead is an elegant new venue for social
and cultural events.
Parking Tourist Information Centre
Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact QD‑2, Jurja Barakovića 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66,
that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00-21:00; Sat, Sun
a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces 09:00-21:00. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00,
alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 -
There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. November, Decem-
footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled ber, January, February, March Open 08:00 - 20:00,
parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
every day from Jun 15 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is charged
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 55
Guma Bar
Harbor
Cookhouse & Club
Zadar Tourist Board / Tourist Informa / Jurja Barakovića 5 / 230

Alesandra Paravije B-3 Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3
Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Forum K-6/C-3 Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3 Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3
Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Foša L-6/D,E-4 Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2
Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1
Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1
Benedikte Braun M-5 Franje iz Milana L-6/D-4 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4
Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2
Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Grge Oštrića J-4 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Oko vrulja K-4
Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2
Borelli L-6/C-3 Grigora Viteza L-3 Krešimirova obala B-4 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3
Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3
Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2
Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2
Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3
Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Ivana Bršića K-5 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Poljanska L,M-3
Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ivana Danila K-6/A-3 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2
Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Među bedemima M-6 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4
Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Prečka L-3
Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6
Đure Sudete J-3,4 Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3
PARKING

LUČKA UPRAVA ZADAR


PORT OF ZADAR AUTHORITY

000, Zadar, Croa info@zadar.travel / www.zadar.travel

Put Dikla G,J-3 Trg pet bunara L-6/D-3


Put Šimunova L,M-3,4 Trg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3
Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Trg sv. Frane K-6/A-3
Ravnice M-6 Trg sv. Krševana K-5/B,C-2
Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Trg sv. Stošije K-6/B-3
Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Trg tri bunara K-5/A-3
Sirac L-6/D-4 Ulica BoreLli L-6/C-3
Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Varoška L-6/C,D-3
Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Vatroslava Lisinskog J,K-3,4
Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Velebitska L-4,5/D-1
Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Veslačka L-4,5/D-1
Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Vjekoslava Maštrovića J-4
Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Vladimira Papafave K-6/A,B-3
Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Voštarnica L-4
Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Vrata sv. Kršovana K-5
Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Vrata sv. Roka K-5
Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Zadarskog mira K-6
Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Zlatarska L-5/C-2
Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Zore dalmatinske L-6/C-3
Trg opatice Čike B-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5 Kalelarga, Zadar Tourist Board Archives
Zadar Basics
Customs Smoking
There are no custom limits between EU member Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
states or tax return. For other non-member states culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna- mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-
uprava.hr. ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend-
ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
Disabled Travellers including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
Awareness of accessibility issues for people with disabili- a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're pre-
ties is beginning to take shape and some improvements pared to move inside.
can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At
the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for
disabled badge holders; most hotels have at least one Visas
room adapted for accessibility requirements, and shop- Croatian visa policies are fully compliant with the European
ping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, Union visa policy and standards. What does that mean? All
as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head out- citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member
doors you can expect problems on the streets, footpaths states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make
and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your coun-
we suggest you inquire about your destination in rela- try of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are
tion to these matters and the majority will endeavour to flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities through-
organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible. out Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple
You can also seek information from the following: Zadar entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and C
Tourist Board on museums, attractions, accommoda- Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforemen-
tion, beaches, transport and public restrooms adapted tioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia. M

for people with accessibility requirements, info@zadar.


travel. Zadar County Association of People with Dis- Y

abilities, Zadar Office Information and assistance Water


CM
relating to accessibility requirements,  Ulica obitelji Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
Stratico 1,  tel./fax: (+385-23) 21 38 85, uti-zadar@ MY

zd.t-com.hr.
When things go wrong CY

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar signifi-


Electricity cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
CMY

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of K

United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide
cal appliances. Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers
you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on
the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or
Money were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police sta-
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well tion. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The
as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože
day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything necessary will be done.
all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385)
If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385) 195.
should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash
you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let Forum, Zadar Tourist Board Archives
you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco-
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h
on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they
say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
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facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Summer 2019 61
Traditionally fresh, tasty
and the most delicious
Dalmatian cuisine more
than 50 years...

Welcome & enjoy

Blaža Jurjeva 1, Old City, Zadar

+385 (0)23 213 445

www.2ribara.com

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