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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Summer 2019

Tune in to
Events not to miss,
locations that bliss

N°9 - complimentary copy


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Top summer events 5 Surroundings 32

A pick’n’ list to brighten your stay Nature paradise

Boatbuilding Tradition 10 Family Fun 50

Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding A day out for a family

Restaurants 12 Shopping 51
Lunch or dinner, you pick Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Coffe&Cakes 20 Arrival & Getting Around 53

What a pleasure Lost? Have no fear, IYP is here

Nightlife 22 Šibenik Basics 56

All the things you need to know about Šibenik
Bop ‘till you drop
Sightseeing 25 County map 57
Snap, camera, action City centre map 58

A stained glass window as seen in St James’ Cathedral. The cathedral saw a brand new multimedia
interpretation centre open this year, Civitas Sacra, in the restored Galbiani Palace.

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 5

Šibenik is a town on the upswing; a real architectural jewel
and yet not as exposed as Zadar and Split. It has its own Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
unique atmosphere: relaxed and carefree. ISSN 1848-0365

It’s a city that has been — and continues to be — used Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
as an inspiration for countless musicians, composers and Šibenik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
songwriters. Its charm lies in the cobblestone streets and Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28
the inevitability of interacting with locals. There’s no speci- croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
fied tourist zone, as the whole city is a museum that begs Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja
to be explored. And topping things off is the fabulous Ca-
thedral built by Juraj Dalmatinac, a UNESCO world heritage Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
site. Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Andrea
The city’s fortresses provide breathtaking views that relieve Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
stress, while an afternoon swim at either Jadrija or Banj Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Research Dora Gaćeša
beach is a good way to prepare for a night whilst cruising Design Ivana Mihoković
the town’s many cafes. Speaking of night, in recent years Photography Šibenik In Your Pocket team unless other-
Šibenik has been dubbed with the slogan ‘the city is a wise stated
stage’ due to so many gigs and events taking places in and Cover Kornati National Park Archives, Novena, Ervin Šilić
Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina
around city streets and corners through to fortresses and Štimac
squares. Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
Then of course, if you need a little more adventure on your copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this
holiday, the surrounding area is filled with national parks publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief
extracts for the purpose of review, without written permis-
and islands that are waiting to be discovered. sion from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand
name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your
No matter what you choose, we wish you an extended and Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212
29 76).
warm summer holiday in the hope that you will take ad-
vantage of everything this grand city has to offer!

6 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

The Pavle Miljenović Quintet, playing at this year’s OFF Jazz & Blues Festival

Top Summer Events

Essential guide to the summer events
in Šibenik and surroundings which
you mustn’t miss... from classic and
traditional, to urban and active
Top Summer Events
15.06 - 29.06 » International Children’s
Established in 1958, this event bridges the city of Šibenik
with its youth. The festival is famous not only for its per-
formances but also for its creative dimension, encouraging
kids to get involved with different art forms: drama classes,
puppetry, musicals and theatre, film, literature and paint-
ing. So there are workshops galore, educational training,
world presentations and more! The event is spread across
different areas of the city.Qwww.mdf-sibenik.com.

20.06 - 14.09 » Summer at St. Michael’s

Have you ever been to an open-air stage event by the
sea and within a centuries old fortress? If not, then now
is your chance and this year’s smashing summer line-up
has something for everyone. Highlights include the Com-
edy Fortress Festival as well as concerts by the likes of
English indie and folk rock singer Michael Kiwanuka,
through to Jacob Collier, an English singer and multi-
instrumentalist, and that’s just the beginning.  Qwww.

02.07 - 06.07 » Solo Positivo Film Festi-

Nothing more positive then celebrating your 10th year 22.07 - 27.07 » Šibenik Dance Festival
anniversary which is the case here! Solo Positivo always What a line-up! For the very first time, the Xiexin Dance
spreads good vibes with a culmination of top documen- Theatre from Shanghai performs their masterpiece
tary films, good movies and culinary specials. It’s the spon- ‘From In’, a modern dance production based on self-
taneity that keeps things fresh with award-winning direc- discovery and our correspondence to one another.
tors turning up, international and regional musicians and Workshops will be conducted by some amazing stars
bands across various genres too.Qwww.spff.hr. that include Kate Jablonski (USA), Maciej Kuzminski
(Poland), as well as Hu Shengyuan and Xie Xin (China).
13.07 - 12.09 » Traditional Acapella Book in advance with more information at www.sibe-
Evenings nikdancefestival.com.Qwww.sibenikdancefestival.
One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be com.
the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional aca-
pella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary
the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor).
Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable Thursday
evening in the Šibenik square.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II,
www.sibenik-tourism.hr/en. Every Thursday.

18.07 - 20.07 » Off Jazz & Blues Festival

This three day bonanza hosts two acts per night. The fes-
tival kicks off with Macedonian master musicians ‘Kaba-
dayas’, known for their rhythmic expression and jazz.
Hometown heroes ‘Mi Group’ will follow. The second eve-
ning has talented Croatian pianist Zvjezdan Ružić team up
with  Vocals soloist Neli Andreev and the Bulgarian female
‘Nusha Choir’, and straight after them is the best Croatian
drummer Branimir Gazdik. The climax to the event is led
by the Pavle Milijenović Quintet and Latino jazz band
‘Cubismo’. QF‑3, Trg Ivana Gorana Kovačića, 100kn daily
ticket, 200kn festival ticket, www.offfestival.net.


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Top Summer Events
18.07 - 21.07 » The 17th Seasplash Fes-
One of Croatia’s top festivals is heading further south and to
the Martinska beach, across from the historic city of Šibenik.
The sounds of reggae, dub, drum and bass, jungle, ska and
punk will travel across the waves over these four days. Artists
include Lee Scratch Perry, Mad Professor, Dub Pistols, Vibron-
ics, Cause4Concern and dozens more. The opening gig will
be at St. Michael’s Fortress where the New York Ska-Jazz En-
semble will perform with support acts. What a cracker! Check
out the web for more info which includes camping options.
QMartinska Cape, www.seasplash-festival.com/en.

02.08 - 03.08 » NOX Festival

Summer peaks in August and you ought to come knocking
at the entry doors to NOX, one of Dalmatia’s top electronic
dance festivals. The serene Martinska beach area is home
to two stages that will be hallowed by the likes of Juan
Atkins, Red Axes, Petar Dundov, Coeus, DJ Jock, Lawrence
Klein, with more to follow. Break open those fluorescent
bracelets and bop away to the grooves under the starry
skies!QMartinska Cape, www.noxfestival.com.

10.08 21:30 » Meritas

Croatian duo Anita Valo and Meri Jaman are ‘Meritas’,
two women who have combined pop, soul and a combo
of other genres to produce their own sound. In their 20
years together (marked last year) they have produced a
number of hits, each with distinctive and recognisable
style.  QC‑3, Azimut Club, Obala palih omladinaca 2,

16.08 - 17.08 » Šibenik Chanson Festival

This ancient city has chanson music carved in its very
stones and the schedule is proof of that. The first, is an
evening of international music and the second evening is
a dalmatian chanson. All artists will perform live, together
with the festival orchestvra and ensembles.QD‑4, Trg Re-
publike Hrvatske, www.sansona-sibenik.com.

08.08 - 11.08 » Membrain Festival

Dedicated to Bass Music where one can sense the
vibe of the underground club scene blending into the
summer Mediterranean outdoors. Two total opposites
that attract! It takes place at the Martinska cape with
different packages available. Camping too! Four days,
three stages and over 80 DJs from across the globe
with headliners Loxy, DLR, Pessimist, Overlook, Clarity,
Ruffhouse and many others.QCape Martinska, www.
facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 9
Top Summer Events
Top county events
02.08 - 04.08 » SuperUho Festival
In its sixth year, the SuperUho Festival takes place in Primošten and
is close to one of the most stunning beaches along the Adriatic.
With a line-up honouring the NO Jazz Festival, it’s brings forth Mark
Ribot, Art Brut, Colin Stetson, Shilpa Ray, Chui, The Fogsellers and
many more genre crossing acts to stage. Don’t forget, camping
is available and free WI-FI too!QPrimošten, 250 - 320kn, www.

16.05 - 30.09 » Free bike tours

In the town of Vodice, Free Bike Tours will be held every
Thursday starting from the 16th of May. In cooperation
with Karika Bike Tours and the Vodice Tourist Board, the
cycling tour named, ‘Trip through the history of Vodice’
takes visitors through fields, vineyards and olive groves,
where they get the chance to learn more about the lo-
cal cultural heritage. Make sure to book your date as
group is limited to 12 participants.Qwww.vodice.hr.
Every Thursday.

23.06 - 31.08 » Primošten weddings

and folk dances by the Krč Cultur-
al Society
See the forgotten traditional wedding customs of old
from the Primošten area. Witness the parade where
all the participants are dressed in costume and dance
traditional folklore on the main square.Qwww.tz-pri-
mosten.hr. Every Sunday.

24.07 - 31.07 » SuncéBeat 10

Ten years running, the beats bounce on at Suncebeat
with a feast of world DJs, party starting live acts and
guest PA’s to help make sure that punters get that
heartfelt experience. With underground House, Disco,
Techno, Soul, R&B and Funk sounds, choose to chill at
either the Beach Stage, Main Stage and the Olive Grove.
Look out for Kerri Chandler, David Morales, The Black
Madonna and Kenny Dope.Qwww.suncebeat.com.

07.08 » Awakening of the Dragon

A unique staging of the ancient legend of ‘Lake Dragon
Eye’ and the dragon named Murin, which will be held
along the Rogoznica waterfront. Witness a story of true
love that transforms the world, a story of courage, love,
loyalty, and the triumph of good over evil. A fairy-tale
04.08 » Vodice Fiesta world of dragons, wizards, knights and maidens, and
The sparks are flying and this become part of the legend.Qwww.loverogoznica.eu.
is one of the night in August
deemed the craziest summer 04.08 » Brganja Day
night in Vodice. Music can be A brganja is a traditional tool which is used to gather
heard at all city squares in all shells from the seafloor. Brganja Day is a day full of
cafes; the town comes to life good food, good music, fireworks, and of course
with a fireworks spectacle and shells. There’s also a special regatta - Dlan i veslo or
a huge carnival/party type of Palm and Paddle - which sees the womenfolk race
atmosphere.  QVodice, Riva, in old traditional wooden boats. Fun for all and then
www.vodice.hr. some!QBetina, Murter Island, www.tz-betina.hr.

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Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding

Cicibela gajeta Inside the Museum

For long stretches of history Croatia’s Adriatic coast has was involved in fishing, merchant shipping, or sheep herd-
been a major player in maritime history, developing trade ing on neighbouring islands. Many folk on the island of
networks, building boats, and nurturing shipping dynas- Murter owned land on the Kornati archipelago, which ne-
ties. Dubrovnik in particular can boast an illustrious past cessitated constant travel across the water. Due to the lack
as a global mercantile power, but this is only one part of a of decent roads, Murter people went to Šibenik or Zadar
rich and varied story. The port of Orebić, the island of Silba by sea whenever they needed to attend to their business.
and the harbour at Veli Lošinj all served as major mari- They even took to their boats when attending weddings
time trading hubs right up until the nineteenth century. and feasts. Everybody needed a boat, in other words, and
There were shipyards all over the place, turning out sail- boat-building became a hugely important sector of the
ing ships in all shapes and sizes. The introduction of steam local economy. Betina is one of the few places in Dalma-
ships spelled the end for the Adriatic sailing captains, and tia where wooden shipbuilding is still practiced, and the
Croatia’s sail-powered seafaring culture is nowadays the timber skeletons of work-in-progress can still be seen on
subject of museum displays and heritage regattas. The the shoreline slipways that can be seen all along the coast.
skills of wooden shipbuilding are still retained at certain
key places along the Adriatic coast, and growing interest The Gajeta, the neat, robust and maneuverable sail-boat
in this heritage has led to a renewed appreciation of boat- for which Betina became famous, was probably devel-
building tradition. oped from Korčula models and adapted to suit local
needs. The gajeta wasn’t just designed for fishing, but also
One of the towns which has a long boatbuilding tradition for taking livestock to and from the Kornati islands and to
is Betina, a sprawling coastal village that spreads itself over transport goods and produce to big-city markets. The leut,
the northeastern corner of Murter island. It is a heritage a 12-metre cargo boat common to much of Dalmatia, was
celebrated in the Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuild- also made here.
ing, opened in 2015 and already one of the most popular
visitor attractions in northern Dalmatia. In May 2018 the Betina shipbuilders initially made boats for the local com-
museum won the European Museum Forum’s Stiletto munity but grew in time to become the main regional
Prize, awarded annually to museums that have done most suppliers of ships, serving clients all over northern Dal-
to engage with the local community. matia. During the inter-war years, faced by declining de-
mand for wooden sail-boats,Betina shipbuilders opened
Boat-building in Betina probably took off in the 18th cen- branches in other towns (such as Kali on the island of
tury with the arrival of a shipbuilding family from Korčula. Ugljan or Sukošan near Zadar) in an attempt to retain their
Together with the neighbouring town of Murter, Betina dominance in the north-Dalmatia market. After World War
was home to a seafaring community in which every family II the Betina yards were nationalized and refocused on the

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Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding
construction of bigger, motor-powered ships. The emer- up and down at anchor, including not just examples of the
gence of plastic-hulled boats reduced further the demand gajeta but also the smaller, oar-powered vessels known as
for the traditional wooden affairs made in Betina, however, kaići and lađe.
and nowadays Betina’s yards concentrate on carrying out
repairs on wooden boats or constructing small wooden One of the most cherished exhibits in the open-air sec-
boats for individual clients. The traditional gajeta is still tion is Cicibela, a typical example of a traditional gajeta
produced here, but is nowadays adapted for the use of an made on the island of Ugljan in 1931. It’s a boat that comes
outboard motor a well as retaining its single triangular sail. with a considerable amount of history, having been used
to shuttle refugees from the Dalmatian mainland to the
The museum plays an important role in the local com- Kornati islands under the cover of night during World War
munity because it educates current generations about II. It survived to become a tourist taxi-boat in the 1960s,
traditional skills which, although still used, are no longer was subjected to shell damage during the Homeland War
practiced by the majority. The local community played of 1991-5, and was finally restored to take its place in the
an important role in providing the museum with exhibits, new museum in 2017.
rescuing boat-making tools from their workshops, passing
on family photographs of boats both under construction The idea of the Betina gajeta as a part of living tradition
and under sail. Pretty much everything on display was is celebrated every August with the Regata za dušo i tilo
donated by local people, and much of the museum’s nar- (“Regatta for soul and body”), when as many as 70 of the
ration was provided by individual memories. Many local craft hoist their sail and set off into the blue yonder. With
people appear in the films and visual materials which form the event rounded off with an evening of music and feast-
such an important part of the display. ing, it’s a great time to be on the island.

The preservation of working, seaworthy craft is an impor- The Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding (www.
tant part of the museum’s mission. Historic boats belong- mbdb.hr) is open daily June-Oct and from Monday to Fri-
ing to the museum collection are moored in the village’s day Nov-May. Check the website for exact times.
new harbour to provide an outdoor, publicly-accessible
extension to the display. There are over 50 craft bobbing Written by Jonathan Bousfield

Wooden construction of Betina gajeta

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 13

feel to it with refreshing juices too, and the service with a
smile is a worthy mention.QE‑3, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel.
(+385-) 098 945 13 78. Open 08:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-
22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 -
23:00. (70-110kn). A­P­B

Bounty Dolac
A simple and pleasant place on the waterfront where you
will find freshly prepped meals from breakfast to dinner.
Menu highlights include beef burgers, vegetarian falafel,
home fries, fresh fish and a whole lot more. Prices are
pocket-friendly knowing you’ll walk away content.QA‑2,
Obala prvoboraca 28, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 49. Open
12:00-15:00,18:00-22:00. (25 - 130kn). A­P­T­S­V ­i

Buffet Šimun
Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery
near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans)
augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada
Konoba Vinko Archives (beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime
standards.QFra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+385-22) 21 26
74/(+385-) 091 174 32 88. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sun.
Upscale (40 - 60kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­W ­i
Occupying a renovated medieval building, just up Dalmatino
the steps from Šibenik Cathedral, a Michelin Star A classic tavern set in the heart of town with rustic items
owner Pelegrini offers a winning blend of bare-stone used as décor. Konobe (village taverns) typically house
historical authenticity and contemporary design cool. smoked meats, wine and olive oil and this eatery has all of
They create personalised high-end gastronomic expe- the above; the menu bursts with excellent fish and meats
riences, rich with flavours and aromas of gastronomic that are prepared in traditional ways.QE‑3, Fra Nikole
heritage. Dishes are made using local ingredients and Ružića 1, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 76. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
fresh seafood, while sommeliers create daily wine se- 19:00 - 01:00. From July Open 19:00 - 01:00. (90 - 200kn).
lections to best fit the season and condition of each N­P­G­X­T­B­J­W
wine. For lunch, guests choose a minimum of 3 cours-
es, while for dinner the minimum is 5 courses. Tasting Gastro Italiano
menu is available upon request.QC‑3, Jurja Dalmatin- With over 20 pizzas to choose, you can’t lose! For over 15
ca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 37 01, www.pelegrini.hr. Open years this eatery has prepped dishes with quality and care-
12:00-15:00,18:30-24:00; closed Mon. (440 - 830kn). fully selected foods along with their ‘old school’ cooking
A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W recipes. Seafood and meats pack the menu with gems like
chicken filled with prosciutto in shrimp sauce and home-
made croutons. Tuna and salmon steaks on the grill are
popular not to mention the homemade bread served for
Based in a large family house midway between Brodarica
free with every meal ordered. QPodsolarsko 78 (next to
and the Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining
Amadria Park), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94, www.gastro-
room with views towards the green olive plantations sur-
italiano.hr. Open 13:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00. (40
rounding Solaris’s bay, and outdoor seating in a garden
- 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­6­W
planted with palms and lush Mediterranean plants. Local
fish and shellfish form the mainstay of the menu, although
it’s the pasta dishes that bring many in-the-know Šibenik Konoba Nostalgija
diners out this far.QPodsolarsko 66, tel. (+385-22) 35 It’s a family affair and you’ll feel like you’re part of the
06 66. Open 12:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. From July Open Ujević kin soon. Oozes Mediterranean with a diverse and
12:00 - 23:00. (140 - 530kn). A­P­G­B­L­W affordable menu for either lunch or dinner with local in-
gredients and local wine top on the list! Cheese and meat
Bazza platters, fish sorts and soups are highly popular, liquors
Choose from eating in or out in their courtyard; choose and homemade cakes too. Quality overrides quantity here
from eating breakfast through to dinner. The choice is and the rustic interior is grand.QF‑3, Biskupa Fosca 11,
yours and there’s plenty of it on the menu which includes tel. (+385-22) 20 02 17/(+385-) 091 587 25 06, www.
seafood, wok cooked dishes, scrumptious desserts that in- nostalgija-sibenik.com. Open 12:00-22:00. (70 - 130kn).
clude raw cakes and more. A lot of the menu has a healthy A­P­G­X­B­W

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Marenda Pjat
A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard From morning till night, go to Pjat for a bite! With a smash-
and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake ing Dalmatian cuisine, the daily classic menu includes the
thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside likes of shrimp and tuna pâtés, tartar tuna steak, goulash
and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequent- with homemade noodles, truffles and pancetta fries, lo-
ly call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the bar- cal pašticada, chocolate or forest fruit waffles, scrambled
rel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing. eggs with ham and cheese, and more. Dine in or out on
QE‑2, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/(+385-) 091 the terrace with friendly staff ready to take your order.
893 60 30. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sun. (19 - 45kn). QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića I 3, tel. (+385-) 098 942 37 80.
N­P­G­X­T­B­J ­i Open 08:00-23:00. (80 - 200kn).

The name of this hostelry means “The Fish Market”, so no Vegetarian
prizes for guessing what’s on the menu. Peškarija has a SHE Bio Bistro & Rooftop Bar
pleasant terrace with a sea view.QC‑3, Obala palih om- The bistro’s philosophy is admirable. To love and re-
ladinaca 4, tel. (+385-) 091 111 27 27. Open 11:00-23:00.
spect the land, the farmers that cultivate it, and of
From June 15 Open 11:00 - 01:00. (80 - 220kn). A­P­
course the food that comes forth. Each season sees
a different menu of fusion cuisine. Bread is baked
in-house daily, and several dietary needs can be ac-
Petrus - Adriatique Beach Club
You’ll think you’re in a movie upon visiting Petrus, a com- commodated. Speciality teas, coffees, and cocktails
plex pocketed on Banj Beach which consists of a top are part of the offer, and you can make this venue
restaurant, a cafe bar and a nightclub. The spacious ter- ideal for any time of day.  An intimate rooftop bar
race offers unforgettable views of the city and Adriatic has also opened upstairs, perfect for that gracious
seashore. Food wise, the menu is a crossover between sundown cocktail to go with the beautiful sea view.
European and Mediterranean cuisine with a great choice QE‑4, Zlarinski prolaz 2, tel. (+385-22) 21 59 57,
of pizzas for everyone’s taste buds.QA‑2, Prilaz tvornici www.shebenik.com. Open 10:00-22:30; closed
35, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 47/(+385-) 092 330 29 92. Open Sun. B
08:00-04:00. (70 - 280kn). A­P­T­B­L­J­W­K ­i

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 15

are particularly good.QC‑2, Trg pučkih kapetana 1, tel.
Lamb (+385-22) 33 18 15. Open 10:00-23:00. (70 - 150kn).
Standing beside a major junction on the main Zadar- Tomaseo
Šibenik road (it’s right opposite the turn-off to Murter A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can
island), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace while tak-
stop-offs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come ing in the view of the Šibenik Channel. Mains and desserts
here to sample the spit-roast lamb – a specimen can are well-prepared and reasonably priced.QE‑4, Obala dr.
usually be seen slowly revolving above a log fire out- Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 92 54. Open 12:00-
side in the car park. The lamb is priced by weight and 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. (70 - 170kn). A­P­G­X­
served in a mixture of chunks (expect to get a selec- T­B­J­6­W
tion of both lean and fatty cuts), usually with a garnish
of spring onion. The menu covers most other things in Zlatna ribica
the Adriatic repertoire too, with fish and squid figur- Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants
ing strongly.QKapela 61, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 46 60 in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location
70, www.restoran-marin.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (35 decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted
- 140kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W ­i indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing
terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj
Torcida putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest
This Šibenik institution is on the Split road that leads fish (weighing in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled,
through Boraja. You can choose succulent lamb peka baked or stewed according to your wishes. Otherwise you
style, or a crispier version roast on a spit, but don’t can opt for grilled tuna steaks or simple fillets of white
miss the home made bread or excellent soups. Bring fish from around 75kn each. With light jazzy music in the
your Hajduk Split shirt and you might just qualify for background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relax-
a discount!QDonje polje 61, Donje polje, tel. (+385- ing, romantic surroundings.QKrapanjskih spužvara 46,
22) 56 57 48, www.restoran-torcida.hr. Open 08:00- Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 03 00/(+385-22) 35 06 95,
23:00. (60 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­L­W ­i www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 250kn).
Stari Grad Zvone
For a tasty meal that won’t break the bank right in the This low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of home-
heart of Šibenik, head right along to this simple little spot. style cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe), fažol
As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range of meat (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy
and fish dishes.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay.QFra
(+385-22) 21 28 64. Open 07:30-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. Jerolima Milete 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 69, www.zvone.
(40 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i business.site. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sun. (30 -
160kn). P­G­T­V­L­W­C ­i
Sandwich, burger and fry-up bar on the seafront keeping
Šibenik’s nocturnal revelers happy with late-night take-
away munchies.QA‑2, Obala prvoboraca 14, tel. (+385) Beer hall
099 339 80 07. Open 09:00-22:00; closed Sun. (20 - Pivnica Toni
80kn). T­B­S­L­W If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while listen-
ing to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a
Terra Mare good start to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably
Enjoying an enviable quayside position, Terra Mare is a tra- the place for you. It has long been a favourite among
ditional Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a mod- the local music-fan fraternity: the walls are covered in
ern makeover, surrounding diners with soothing fawn
Šibenik-related pop memorabilia, including photos of
hues and smart furnishings rather than the usual nauti-
singer-songwriter Arsen Dedić, pianist Maksim Mrvica,
cal trinkets. The grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely
to disappoint, and the seafood pasta dishes are excellent. pop balladeer Mate Mišo Kovač, and any number of
QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 095 834 lesser-known local acts that never quite made it onto
55 67. Open 10:00-24:00. (75 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­ the national stage. One wall is reserved for sporting
B­W ­i heroes, with Šibenik-born basketball icon Dražen
Petrović hogging the limelight. The outdoor terrace is
Tinel a popular venue for laid-back beer-drinking on sum-
Up a short flight of steps opposite St. Chrysogonus’s mer evenings.QE‑4, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22)
Church, Tinel has a broad menu of meat and seafood that 21 78 60. Open 08:00-23:00. (35 - 45kn). A­P­G­
covers most Adriatic culinary bases. The frogfish (grdo- X­T­B­6­W
bina) in white wine sauce or grilled sea bass (brancin)

16 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com


Out of town Core Lounge Bar & Restaurant

Situated in the Kornati National Park, Vrulje Bay to be spe-
cific is where the beauty of nature meets the beauty of
Drniš superb food and adventure. Refurbished from top to bot-
Kod Baje tom, visitors can enjoy the wonderful panoramic views
This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot serves on offer. It is also a place where one can relax, or go for
up many traditional staples that have disappeared from organised teambuilding activities such as sailing, fishing,
more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver and jogging and trekking. Accommodation available!QVrulje
brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in Bay, NP Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 200 40 45, www.core-
(thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills, kornati.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. 180 - 380kn. A­P­
stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local X­T­B­S­W ­i
delicacies such as Drniš pršut (melt-in-the-mouth home-
cured ham) and sir iz mišine (sheep’s cheese matured in a Dalmata
bag made from intestines) – a combined platter of the two This is a traditional island tavern with a menu covering a
is Drniš’s version of gastronomic heaven.QMate Grubišića customary selection of simple grilled-meat dishes along-
14, Drniš, tel. (+385-22) 88 79 40. Open 07:00-22:00; Sun side a broader range of seafood. Main courses range from
07:00-13:00. (40 - 60kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­W ­i inexpensive options like breaded hake fillet (pohani oslić)
to finger-licking, push-the-boat-out delicacies like scampi
and lobster. Choose between the small and cosy inte-
Islands rior with large, curiously-shaped seashells hanging from
Aldura the timber-beamed ceiling, or wooden-bench seating a
Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura is the obvious last port of call canopied terrace overlooking the sea shore.QObala I 1,
for coffee when you are waiting for the Šibenik-Vodice Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 095 906 14 07. Open 08:00-01:00.
boat to come steaming round the headland. It is also a fine N­G­X­B­W
restaurant, serving up seafood pastas, grilled chops and
fresh fish in an atmospheric old building that preserves
plenty of its original stone and timber.QZlarinska obala Read more reviews online:
8, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 28/(+385-) 091 175 59 75. šibenik.inyourpocket.com
Open 08:00-01:00. (45 - 140kn). N­X­T­B­6­W ­i

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 17

SYMBOL key Konoba Vinko
One word says it all – homemade! Visit this wonderful
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
family-owned konoba situated on the main road from
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled Drniš to Šibenik. They breathe local dishes including
famous Drniš prosciutto, Velebit cheese, rotisserie and
B Outside seating L Guarded parking
baked dishes under the iron bell to local wines, various
S Take away 6 Pet-friendly rakija (grappa), craft beers, and homemade cakes   – all
can be found at this beautiful local tavern.QUz cestu
W Wifi J Old town location 57, Konjevrate, tel. (+385-22) 77 87 50/(+385-) 098 979
34 10, www.konobavinko.hr. Open 12:00-22:00. (80 -
200kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W
In Golubovac bay on the island of Žut, this restaurant run Murter
by the Mudronja family mixes a standard repertoire of tra- Boba
ditional high quality Dalmatian cuisine. Local ingredients Boba’s large contemporary-style dining room still has a
especially herbs and flora from the Kornati region is used. homely feel, with cookery books crammed into a shelf
Fish and lobster with innovative starters such as conger-
in the corner and an open hearth on which food is pre-
eel pate and various fish carpaccioare some of the finer
pared – delivering a blast of deliciously charcoal-scented
things on offer. Home-baked bread and a well-stocked
grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the fish or steak
wine cellar provide two more incentives to visit. The res-
taurant also has a small shop selling groceries and other that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto and pasta
supplies to yachters.QUvala Golubovac, Otok Žut - Ko- choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if you order
rnati, tel. (+385-) 099 347 35 19/(+385-) 099 239 90 89, it a few hours in advance.QButina 22, Murter, tel. (+385-)
www.zut.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (120 - 500kn). A­G­ 098 937 91 81, www.konobaboba.hr. Open 12:00-24:00.
X­T­B­6­W (100 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W

Four lions Fabro

Attached to Zlarin’s only hotel is this big dining area spread With tables and chairs set out along one of Murter’s many
beneath a canopy with a fishing boat hanging from the small-boat piers, Fabro is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of
ceiling. Expect a respectable menu of meat and fish, with maritime scenery. It can be quite hot and sunny here well
plenty that’s freshly-caught it functions as a café too, with into early evening although as night falls it is a wonderfully
chairs and tables right by the waterside.QZlarinska obala romantic place to dine. If you are travelling out of season
15, Zlarin. Open 07:00-01:00. (50 - 120kn). N­P­G­ the small and intimate dining room, decked out in nautical
X­T­B­6­W ­i souvenirs, is a relaxing place to spend an evening. Fresh
fish either grilled or baked is the star of the show, although
Opat the shellfish and steaks are also excellent.QŽabićeva 7,
Located in a stone house above the shore in Kornat island’s Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61. Open 11:00-23:00. (80 -
Opat bay, this is another well-known port of call among 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­W ­i
the yachting fraternity, and you might have to call early
in the day if you want to reserve a table for the evening. Tic Tac
Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare seafood, with The closest that Murter comes to a cult restaurant, Tic
shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood has been Tac was one of the early innovators in the Adriatic gas-
caught that day, and baked-fish mains.QOtok Kornat 183,
tro scene, adding a modern European culinary twist to
Uvala Opat - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473 25 50/(+385-
Croatia’s traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish and
) 091 224 78 78, www.opat-kornati.com. Open 09:00-
lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu,
24:00. (150 - 500kn). A­G­X­T­B­S­V­6­W ­i
although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks.
Žut With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the
Also in Žut’s ACI marina, Žut offers outdoor seating un- nearby seafront it’s an atmospheric place for evening din-
der a canopy bordered by shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked ing, although it can be difficult to find a table in season.
fish, octopus baked under a peka, or grilled Kornati lamb QHrokešina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/(+385-)
alongside the usual fish and lobster are among the special- 098 86 46 19, www.tictac-murter.com. Open 12:00-
ities.QACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, 23:00. (100 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W
tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55/(+385-) 091 760 56 11, www.
restoran-zut.com.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (130 - 280kn).
A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W ­i www.inyourpocket.com

18 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Occupying a back yard that has been roofed over to cre-
ate a high-ceilinged dining space, Nono supplies good-
quality seafood in an environment that is quirkily rustic but
not overburdened with kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety
wooden chairs, admire the farmstead bric-a-brac hanging
on the walls and tuck in to marinated anchovies, grilled
white fish or - if ordered several hours in advance - octo-
pus baked the traditional way, under a charcoal-covered
lid. It’s a family-run place and the wine and prošek come
from their own vineyard.QTrg domovinskog rata 5, Piro-
vac, tel. (+385-) 099 224 45 84. Open 07:00-24:00. (90
- 350kn). A­G­X­T­B­W ­i

An old stone house with a smart modern interior, Kamenar
offers a tasteful combination of traditional home cooking
and fine contemporary dining. A range of imaginative sea-
food pastas and risottos will suit the light-lunchers, while
steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either grilled whole
or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide ample
excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner. Lo-
cal Babić wine goes well with the red meats, while dry
white Pošip from Korčula is the ideal accompaniment to
the finest fish.QRudina biskupa J. Arnerića 5, Primošten,
tel. (+385-22) 57 08 89/(+385-) 098 33 62 46, www.
restaurant-kamenar.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (80 -
200kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W ­i

A walled courtyard with an open kitchen, Mediteran is
the ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled fish
or steak the main culinary crowd-pleasers. It’s also an
intimate spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the
side of the dining area for those who just want a glass of
the house wine - Babić from the family’s own vineyard.
QPut briga 13, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 44 59 45/
(+385-22) 57 17 80, www.mediteran-primosten.hr.
Open 13:00-24:00. (120 - 250kn). A­P ­G ­X ­T ­B­

Located at the mainland end of the causeway, Torkul of-
fers a familiar mixture of wooden benches and stone
walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac (in-
cluding among other things nautical photographs, a life
belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among
the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (no-
tably octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you
have the time to call in and order it in advance.QCrnica
1, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 33 75 15, www.konoba-
torkul.com. Open 10:00-24:00. (70 - 150kn). A­G­X­

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 19

This family restaurant set in a walled courtyard has
earned an enviable culinary reputation on the back of
locally-influenced dishes such as roast lamb. The fish
and shellfish are also top class. Cantinetta is so devoted
about the authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked
skradinski rižot (risotto with veal) that you are advised
to order it at least a day in advance. Since the process
of cooking is so complex, they require orders by a mini-
mum of 10 people.QAleja skradinskih svilara 7, Sk-
radin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 24/(+385-) 091 150 64 34,
www.cantinetta.hr. Open 12:00-24:00. (50 - 150kn).
A­P ­G ­X ­B ­W

Good home cooking in an interior that blends traditional
bare stone with modern minimalist design touches, or in
the walled garden with its open kitchen. There is a good
selection of grilled meats and fish, with locally caught lo-
cal mullet or peka-baked squid the stand-out dishes.QDr.
Franje Tuđmana 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 26 64 95,
www.pini.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (80 - 120kn). A­P­
G­X­T­B­L­6­W ­i

Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath
the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramatical-
Baraka Winery Archives ly-situated Vidrovača is well-nigh inaccessible unless you
have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a
Rogoznica small pebble beach, and is very popular with passing
yachtsfolk as a result. Principal culinary attractions in-
Antonijo clude shellfish, scampi and squid. Local meats (including
Sheltered by a clutch of palm trees at the end of Rogozni- kid goat) baked under a peka are also on the menu, al-
ca’s riva, Antonio offers the whole gamut of Adriatic sea- though they should be ordered a few hours in advance.
food from squelchy squid risottos to succulent lobster, QVidrovača bb, Bilice-Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 75
with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish in between. 72 81, www.vidrovaca.com. Open 12:00-24:00. (100 -
Dalmatinska pržolica (pork chop with garlic) serves as 300kn). N­G­X­T­B­L­6­W
a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad interior is
small and intimate, although chances are you’ll end up on Zlatka
the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa yacht- If Skradin’s culinary traditions leave you cold (or simply out
ing marina across the water.QObala kneza Domagoja of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatka’s trusty and inex-
35, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 pensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including
63 54, www.restoran-antonijo.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat and
Open 11:00 - 01:00. (70 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­ bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant
6­W rosemary bushes. The family-recipe pašticada (Dalma-
tian stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying.
QGrgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 905 39
Skradin 09/(+385-22) 77 15 71. Open 12:00-24:00. (38 - 85kn).
Bonaca A­P­G­X­T­B­S­W
Skradin’s emergence as one of Dalmatia’s leading gastro-
nomic destinations owes a great deal to Bonaca, which Zlatne školjke
has a reputation for nurturing local culinary traditions and A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the seafront,
only using the freshest ingredients – the owner is him- the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed dining
self a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes kick room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots. A
off a menu that also includes regional favourites such as high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish
shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as
interior features exposed stone and brick with nautically- the slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. Be sure
themed pictures on the walls, and there’s an outdoor ter- to leave room for the owner’s own-recipe skradinska
race looking down towards Skradin marina.QRokovača 5, torta.QGrgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10
Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44. Open 12:00-24:00. (70 22, www.zlatne-skoljke.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (80 -
- 350kn). A­G­X­U­B­J­6­W 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­W

20 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior,
wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a cov-
ered conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the
waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to
fresh fish and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily
specials offering excellent value for money.QPut Broščice
12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81 11. Open 08:00-23:00. (65
- 140kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­V­W ­i
Offering restful outdoor eating in a tree-shaded garden
mere steps away from the water, Gina is the perfect place
to enjoy an evening meal while watching the sun set over
Murter’s humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main attrac-
tion although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the
menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spir-
its.QPut Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, www.
gina.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 140kn). A­N­P­G­
X­T­B­6­W ­i

This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by the WINE TASTING RESERVATION:
bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes, m: +385 98 337 993 e: filip@baraka.co
fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure.
Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among Bogdanovići 36, Šibenik http://baraka.co
the principal culinary draws.QUlica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel.
(+385-) 091 523 60 04/(+385-22) 44 68 12. Open 12:00-
24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­G­X­T­B­J­6­W Wine Tasting
Baraka Winery
Vodice Baraka Winery is a relatively new chapter in Croatia’s
Bistro Gulož always-impressive wine story. Established just over 3
A romantic eatery small in venue and size, but it’s the food decades ago, this is a tale of the love of fine wine, and
the people want and come back for. Menu dishes are based dedication to the grapevine. This family run business
mainly on fish and seafood as well as homemade fish paté, can be found on the Srima peninsula, near Šibenik and
burgers, salmon, tuna, swordfish, and fine bruschetta. Vodice, and it has almost 12,000 vines across 4 hect-
Home grown spices at this time of year make all the differ- ares of land. Their wine follows the same principles of
ence.QObala matice Hrvatske 14a, Vodice, tel. (+385-) those days when the family made wine for themselves
095 900 21 45. Open 17:00-24:00. (75-160kn). N­B­6
and friends in their own cellar at home – no herbicides
By Gušte are used.  QBogdanovići 36, tel. (+385-) 098 33 79
In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is one 93, www.baraka.co. Open 11:00-16:00.
of the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with
wooden tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult Na.Ma.Lo Coffee & Wine Bar
restaurant with a solid following - reservations are essen- A wine bar with world’s biggest collection of wines
tial in season.QMirka Zore 34b, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 from Šibenik area, and some from other parts of
201 75 93, www.konoba-guste.com. Open 18:00-24:00.
Croatia as well. Their cocktail list puts local flavours
(80 - 160kn). A­G­X­B­W
into world classics, and their coffee game is strong
Tri piruna with beans lightly roasted in Croatia’s capital. If you
Local delicacy with a fine track record! Enter a typical Dal- are more of a beer lover, make sure to check out their
matian tavern (konoba) with some great food on offer. High local craft selection.QE‑3, Don Krste Stošića 2, tel.
on the ‘recommendation list’ is tuna steak, Florentine steak, (+385-) 099 827 88 93. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat
black risotto… Sea food is also hot on the menu! Wines are 09:00-01:00; closed Sun. From June 15 Open 09:00
local and the service advice is at the right price. The mu- - 24:00. Sunday 17:00 - 01:00. A­P ­G ­X ­B ­J­
sic and the décor all fit the experience!QUl. Pave Roce 5, 6­W
Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 576 7751, www.konobatripiruna.
com. Open 17:00-23:30. (70-210kn). A
facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 21
Coffee & Cakes
Coffee Gradska vijećnica
With outdoor seating underneath the arches of Šibenik’s
Barone Bistro
Renaissance town hall, this is the place where locals and
Cafe style bistro within the Barone Fortress with beauti-
visitors alike love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main
ful panoramic sea views where throughout the entire day
square, with the city’s cathedral providing a grandiose
visitors can pop in for coffee, but also for those a bit more
backdrop. Inside, salmon-pink décor and bronze-painted
peckish they can try small fine snacks of marinated sea-
ceilings convey an aura of olde-worlde style. Tea is served
food or local meat delicacies such as prosciutto and šokol.
old-school-style in a pot, and it’s always worth trying out
Sample wines from small local producers; Maraština, Bab-
the cake of the day.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel.
ic, Debit, Plavina...QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28. Open
(+385-22) 21 36 05. Open 08:00 - 23:00. A­G­X­T­
09:00 - 22:00. A­W
Hendrick’s Bar
Positioned in a small square and one of numerous cafes,
A contemporary bar with an urban Mediterranean feel that
Bono is quite popular and a nice place to relax. Seating is
is hot on the heels of ‘drink it up’. They also offer an assort-
provided inside and out with live gigs set up in-front of
ment of freshly squeezed juices, an even larger selection
the café during summer. A place to chill and cool off!QE‑3,
of ‘more beer, more beer’ and other alcoholic beverages
Zagrebačka 7, tel. (+385-22) 33 72 31. Open 07:00-23:00;
to get your evening going. On Friday nights enjoy open
Sat, Sun 08:00-14:00.
air concerts.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 16. Open 07:00-
01:00; Sun 07:00-14:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. X­W
Giro espresso
One of central Šibenik’s best options for quality coffee
Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediter-
is also one of the most niftily decorated, decked out in a
anski vrt Sv. Lovre café&restaurant
contrasting palette of slate greys and rich reds - including
If you value your daily coffee break as your personal mo-
some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket seats. It’s one of the
ment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings
most popular places in town for a midday caffeine-fuelled
than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquil-
chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting crowd.QE‑3,
ity, the gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned
Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 66. Open 07:00-
roses, and you can see capers in their natural habitat rather
01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00; Sun 08:00-14:00. N­P­G­
than floating miserably in a pickle jar.QD‑3, Strme stube
1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.sv-
lovre.com. Open 09:00-23:00. A­P­X­B­J­6­W

Named after a trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is
a pleasant café-bar on the Riva, with a glass-enclosed
verandah-type construction tacked on to a smaller and
cosier inner sanctum. Bottled beers include cult Croatian
ale Velebitsko pivo, while the background music covers
familiar international pop-rock territory.QB‑3, Obala
palih omladinaca 12. Open 08:00 - 01:00. N­P ­X­
T­B ­J ­W

Castrum Coffee & more
Right on the fortress of Saint Michael, this café offers
scenic views of the Adriatic whilst choosing from coffee
or freshly squeezed juice amongst other beverages. The
bake their own fresh cakes and have a variety of types
and flavours on offer. Cold salads and platters can also be
ordered. Castrum is the right place for a little break from
sightseeing.QC‑2, St. Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel.
(+385-) 099 445 90 11, www.castrumsibenik.hr. Open
10:00 - 18:00. June and September Open 08:00 - 21:00.
July and August Open 08:00 - 22:00. B­W

Ka Grom
Escape the heat at ‘Ka Grom’, an ice-cream parlour that
Na.Ma.Lo Coffee & Wine Bar Archives will hydrate at a fast rate. With a growing reputation as

22 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes

one of the town’s best, the range of flavours here is hard Noemi Slastice
to beat. Whether you like creamy, chocy, fruity, nutty, There is nothing better than doing what you love and
peachy, waffly, or crunchy, and from classic to premium Srđana Pažanin is doing just that. She is the owner and main
ice-creams, there’s something for everyone!  QF‑2, Trg cake/pastry artist who pays attention to detail to all of the
Kralja Držislava 1, tel. (+385-) 091 318 43 20. Open cakes and desserts found at this store. It is take-away only,
09:00-01:00. P­J and the highlight here is that all of her cakes are hand-made
with quality ingredients and no additives. Hence, quality
Kavana Life Palace over quantity!QAnte Šupuka 10, www.facebook.com/
Located within a Renaissance building which is a stun- noemislastice. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Sun.
ning hotel, the ground floor houses a café and pastry
shop like no other. Around 20 fresh cakes are on offer Slastičarnica Calimero
each day which enhance the ritual of sipping on cof- Only minutes from the main bus station, Calimero is
fee. Choose from the beautiful terrace or stunning pal- heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. This patisserie/cake
ace like interior. Must see place for an all-round relaxing shop will leave your taste buds tingling with their large ar-
ray of homemade cakes on offer. Cheesecakes, croissants,
rendezvous!QE‑3, Trg šibenskih palih boraca 1, tel.
macaroons, pies and much more to choose from! Natural-
(+385-22) 21 90 05, www.hotel-lifepalace.hr. Open
ly, all the finest coffees and teas will help settle the tummy
07:00-24:00. P­B­W after such indulgence.  QG‑3, Vladimira Nazora 49, tel.
(+385-22) 21 48 18. Open 07:00 - 00:30. N­P­B­W
Moderato Coffee & Cakes bar
Named after one of the best-known songs by the Šibenik- YUM Pastry Shop
born melody-master Arsen Dedić, this roomy café is some- Attention to detail can be seen on almost every cake or
thing of a classic in its own right, with a big outdoor terrace pastry made here, and the combination of flavours aligned
and a range of stylish but comfortable spaces within. After with seasonal goodies really do make a difference. This
recently receiving a face lift, the elegant interior fits per- new café has already touched the hearts of locals with its
fectly with the concept of recharging batteries over a brew. simple interior, colourful cakes, super service and combo
The landscaped terrace is spacious and picturesque. They of new meets traditional sweets that are served.QE‑2,
serve fantastic homemade cakes!QG‑2, Stjepana Radića 1, Božidara Petranovića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 684 95 75.
tel. (+385-22) 21 20 36, www.moderato.hr. Open 06:30- Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-14:00. P­B­J­W
23:00; Sun 07:00-13:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 23

This functional water-front rectangular space is rendered
rather welcoming and homely by a combination of low-
key lighting, garden-style wicker furnishings, and a pop-
rock menu of background music that is loud enough to
keep your feet tapping but not so deafening as to drown
out an evening of good conversation. The clientele here is
mildly older than that at the nearby Point (see below) but
not so long in the tooth that they have lost their appetite
for a good party.QA‑3, Obala prvoboraca 17, tel. (+385-)
091 522 82 25. Open 09:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00.

En Vogue Beach Club

This chic and stylish beach club delivers superb views of
the Šibenik archipelago from its own private beach. It’s
Barcode Archives the place where glam people and influencers come to
mingle, seeking the sun, VIP guest service and live DJ
sets churning out tunes. A designer menu and premium
beverages keep hunger and thirst at bay. No doubt, En
Vogue Beach Club is the place to be seen – this could be
you!  QAmadria Park, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22)
36 10 01, www.envoguebeachclub.com. Open 11:00-
21:00. B­W

Pub&Wine Bar Scala

Enter into a monopoly of wines and beers beautifully
placed for customers to choose from as they are lit up
behind the illuminating lights surrounded in stone behind
the bar. This rustic venue has a lot of pluses in terms of
vibe and character. Live acts perform often, a great set list
of local and broader beverages on hand; seasonal spe-
cials in terms of food are on offer too. Coffees of all sorts
available!QPut gimnazije 5, tel. (+385-) 095 890 44 31.
Vintage bar Archives Open 07:00-23:00. A­P­X­B­L­W

Azimut Club Rebus Bar

This is the main actor of the Šibenik alternative scene. Situ- Escape the heat and grab a beverage at Rebus, morning
ated inside now-dry wells, built in 1453, it’s is a home to coffee to evening cocktails, Rebus is open all day long. Not
urban culture. Here you will find various contemporary to be missed are the evening live music sessions (Thurs-
exhibitions, several fascinating art installations, all part of days and Friday or Saturday) with a great variety of beer,
Azimut’s atmosphere and underground world. Topped local wine, and mega list of cocktails, including signature
with live concerts and music, its shaded terrace is a place Rebus cocktail recipes. The exquisite interior fuses ori-
you’ll want to visit to relax, where you can hang out while ental tones with an industrial feel, and it is well worth a
sipping a cool glass of culture.QC‑3, Obala palih omladi- visit! QF‑3, Ul. Svetog Nikole Tavelića 3, www.facebook.
naca 2. Open 09:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. A­G­ com/rebusbarsibenik. Open 08:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-
X­B­E­6­W 02:00; Sun 17:00-01:00.

Bar Code Vintage Bar

A cocktail bar best known for the use of local ingredients Opened in the summer of 2016 with attention to detail
in making a fusion of modern to original cocktails and paid to the interior’s green walls, nature walls, earthy
other beverages. With live DJs, artists and bands lined up, shades and more. The Vintage Bar offers super cool cock-
Barcode is definitely a place worth visiting as the sun sets tails, hot coffees and teas. As it is located in the heart of
and the moon rises. QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića 3, tel. (+385- the city, it’s the perfect breather or time-out between
) 098 942 37 80, www.facebook.com/barcodesibenik. sightseeing.QF‑3, Prolaz Bože Dulibića 4, tel. (+385-)
Open 07:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­ 098 942 37 80. Open 07:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00;
T­B­J­W Sun 16:00-01:00.
24 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Out of town burning oven for baking pizzas, a simple menu of pršut
Aurora sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as girice; fried
Set on a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatial- whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and rock
looking balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and gigs during the summer.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, www.
club all rolled into one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top lantana-murter.com. Open 10:00-24:00. N­G­X­T­
DJs from abroad, and an atmospherically-lit back garden B­6­W
keep the hordes coming. Heading back down the hill at
dawn is all part of the Primošten experience.QKamenar 3, Exit club
Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19 64, www.auroraclub. A well-patronized party-bar in central Vodice, offering
hr. Open 23:00-05:00. It’s best to keep track via the web different styles of music on different nights. House and
or Facebook page. A­G­X­B­E­L­6­W techno regularly pull the punters in, although you might
equally stumble into a Croatian pop evening when every-
Basadura one is singing along blissfully to songs that you don’t un-
Wicker chairs, bamboo stools and an outdoor terrace derstand.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-)
shaded by tropical-island-style thatched parasols add an 095 196 67 19. June 15 - August 31 Open 21:30 - 05:00.
air of Pacific-Island exotica to this popular café bar on the N­P­X­B­E­J
Old Town’s island. With seating right by the shore, it’s the
perfect location to sip cocktails as the sinking sun throws Fjaka Bar
the local islands into silhouette.QBadnje 9, Tribunj, tel. Situated in the small Dalmatian village of Brodarica near
(+385-) 091 733 71 25. Open 07:00 - 23:00. From July Šibenik, the locals will tell you that Fjaka Bar is one of
Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­G­X­T­B­6­W Brodarica’s best cafes and bars which during the day is a
typical relaxing place with a care-free Mediterranean feel
Beach Bar Lantana where one can enjoy excellent coffee, refreshing bever-
Crouching above the corner of Čigrađa bay is this impro- ages and delicious meals, and at night the pace picks up
vised building that looks a bit like a thatched hut, with as the bar turns into a small nightclub with DJs and live
wooden benches underneath a rush-matting canopy, bands. Feel the vibrations!QObala Maratuša bb, Brodari-
and additional chairs and tables set higgledy-piggledy on ca, tel. (+385-) 091 200 15 26. Open 08:00–01:00; Fri, Sat
sloping ground underneath pine trees. There is a wood- 08:00-02:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­E­6­W ­i

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 25


Krešimir Reful
This small wedge-shaped space bathed in blue-ish light An inviting purple and blue rectangle with a big pool table
lies in an alleyway just off the square. With at least ten va- and classic-rock background music, Reful is a welcome
rieties of whisk(e)y behind the bar it’s a tempting last port antidote to the mainstream sonic wallpaper on offer else-
of call for those who just can’t resist the idea of one for the where. There is a handful of outdoor tables on a raised ter-
road.QMajinova 5, Murter. Open 07:00-02:00. A­P­ race looking towards Hramina beach. Live blues and rock
X­B­W bands perform at weekends throughout the year, when
the alcove at the back of the bar serves as a tiny stage.QS-
NoStress Night&Beach Bar abuni 11, Murter, tel. (+385-) 099 634 69 56. Open 07:00
The crew which runs this place is famous for organising - 02:00. September 16 - October Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,
great parties the whole year round, and come June they Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­X­T­B­E­L­6­W
simply move the stage out into the open and next to the
sea. DJs, music, warm nights, all in a place loved by locals The Legend’s Pub
and tourists alike, and all guaranteeing a memorable night Occupying a roomy stone house just opposite Primošten’s
out.QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 099 causeway, Legends features the kind of solid wooden fur-
873 40 45. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. July, niture and green-hued upholstery that makes a pub a pub
August Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T – or at least in the mind of a European holidaymaker. The
semi-circular balcony hovering above the bar area is quite
Opium a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs of famous
This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right be- Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for dis-
side the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds cussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz, blues, and
and hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visit- pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with crowds
ing DJs.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer.QTrg
091 569 50 19, www.opium-vodice.net. Open 07:00 Don Ive Šarića 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 02 77,
- 00:00. July - September Open 21:00 - 06:00. A­P­ www.thelegendspub.com. Open 08:00 - 05:00. A­P­
G­X­T­U­B­E­J­6­W G­X­B­E­J­6­W


26 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Essential Šibenik
Cathedral of St James (Katedrala Sve- 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. November - March 09:00 and 18:00,
tog Jakova) Sun 09:30, 11:00, 18:00.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.
With its pale stone dome rising above the city like a gar- Open 09:30-18:30. Admission 25kn.
gantuan crocus bulb, Šibenik’s magnificent Cathedral Saint Anthony’s Channel - Promenade
exerts a dominating presence over the huddled build- See one of the most amazing entrances to a city from
ings of the Old Town. In a sense the church here is as the sea. Saint Anthony’s Channel is a 4.4km new prom-
old as Šibenik itself, although it is the century-long cam- enade surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and
paign of rebuilding initiated in 1431 that produced the offers stunning panoramic views of the Šibenik archi-
imposing edifice that can be seen today. pelago. Attractions include the ruins of a 16th century
Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took tower, a sublime several hundred meter long marine
place in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasn’t tunnel built for military purposes, beautiful coves that
officially consecrated until 1555. However it brought to- lay at the end of the channel and are perfect for a swim
gether many of the Adriatic’s finest craftsmen, foremost or quick dip, and in the vicinity sits the old port and a
among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalma- cave that housed a small church dedicated to St. An-
tinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they thony. Organised tours, walking, jogging and cycling
who were responsible for the cathedral’s most innova- are your best options for a very scenic outside-in view of
tive features, the barreled roof and massive cupola both Šibenik!QJ/K‑5, www.kanal-svetog-ante.com.
built from interlocking stone slabs.
Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction, Šibenik City Museum (Muzej grada
the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery Šibenika)
of late-Medieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The A narrow alley, behind the apse of the cathedral, leads
north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues to the 17th century Rector’s Palace, from where the rep-
of Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private resentative of the Venetian Republic would watch over
parts in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest Šibenik’s affairs. It is now home to the City Museum
on the backs of lions. They are thought to be the work which only reopened its door for permanent displays af-
of Bonino of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was ter a demanding 22 year break for renovations. Exhibited
brought in to work on the cathedral at an early stage but artefacts are divided into four periods: Prehistory, Antiq-
who died before the reconstruction really got going. uity, Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages.QD‑4, Gradska
Much more refined in style are the sculptures and reliefs vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik.
around the outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 30kn, kids by the
provided a frieze of 71 stone heads – which appear to age of 12 have free entrance.
pop out of the wall just above human height. Thought The Medieval Monastery Mediterra-
to be modeled on Šibenik characters of Dalmatinac’s nean Garden of St Lawrence (Srednjo-
acquaintance, they are uniquely lifelike examples of Re- vjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt
naissance sculpture and have served as something of a sv. Lovre)
trademark for the city of Šibenik ever since. Above the Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Kiš and main-
frieze, a pair of stone cherubs unfurl a scroll of parch- tained by children from a local high school, the Medi-
ment bearing the name of the artist, Juraj Dalmatinac. terranean Garden has become one of Šibenik’s most
You’ll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of popular attractions since opening its gates in 2007.
the statues grouped around the central cupola, all the Occupying an oblong terrace just above the belfry of St
work of Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is por- Lawrence’s church and surrounded by stone walls, the
trayed spearing a dragon facing the main square, while garden aims to provide an accurate impression of what
St Mark faces the sea, and St James faces east. Standing a medieval monastery garden would have looked like,
at roof level at the western end of the cathedral is an An- and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a
nunciation scene, also by Firentinac, featuring Archangel few moments of retreat. The collection of plants is laid
Gabriel and the Virgin. out in neat geometric beds and reveals how monastery
Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj Šižgorić gardens such as these were highly practical affairs, cul-
with an effigy of the reclining bishop carved by Juraj Dal- tivating the herbs and shrubs that were both useful in
matinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic the kitchen and in medieval medicine. Fruit trees and
crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrović, fifteenth-century Can- roses help to provide additional colour. There is also a
on of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinac’s greatest masterpiece is café with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio, a res-
the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedral’s corner, which taurant and a souvenir shop. If you have ambitious plans
features a beautifully carved ceiling, and plump cherubs for a herb garden at home, this is the perfect place to
cavorting around the base of the baptismal font. Mass: come for horticultural inspiration.QD‑3, Strme stube 1,
June - August 09:00 and 20:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00. tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.sv-
September, October, April, May 09:00 and 19:00, Sun lovre.com. Open 09:00-24:00.

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 27

Churches St Francis’ Church and monastery
(Crkva i samostan svetog Frane)
Church of Our Lady outside the Walls Belonging to Šibenik’s main Franciscan Monastery, this
(Gospa van grada) church boasts Gothic origins but was given a full Ba-
Overlooking the Poljana is this stately 17th-century church
roque makeover, with leading 17th-century painter Matej
with a soaring four-storey belfry. The interior features ex-
Pončun providing a series of dramatically turbulent altar
travagant red, yellow and white stucco work and a modern
relief of the Stations of the Cross. Mass: 08:00 and 19:00,
A doorway from the square just outside the church’s
Sun 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 19:00, in July and August 08:00
main entrance leads through to the monastery court-
and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 20:00.QF‑1, Fra Stjepana
yard, where a row of stone buildings contain a range of
Zlatovića 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 77. Open 07:00 - 12:00,
displays dealing with church history, and examples of the
17:00 - 20:00, Sun only during mass.
monastery library’s rich collection of manuscripts and
books. Mass 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30 and 19:00.
Church of St John (Crkva svetog Ivana)
Mass in English can be arranged by appointment.QF‑3,
This venerable 14th-century lump of stone is famous for
the balustraded staircase on the street-facing side, said Trg Nikole Tommasea 1, tel. (+385-22) 20 14 80, www.
to be the work of prolific stonemason Nikola Firentinac. svetiste-sibenik.hr. Open 06:30 - 20:00.
Sprouting from the upper part of the balustrade are a se-
ries of angels’ heads in relief form, while a severely eroded St Lawrence’s Church (Crkva svetog
lion stands guard at the bottom. The church’s four-storey Lovre)
belfry boasts the town’s oldest mechanical clock, made Completed in the 18th century, the church belongs to a
by Ottoman craftsmen and used in Drniš before being monastery founded by Franciscan friars from the island of
brought to Šibenik. Inside lies a trio of Baroque altars; the Visovac (see p.62). The monastery was an important centre
side altar to the left bears a jolly relief of trumpeting cher- of learning, teaching philosophy and theology from 1669.
ubs and skulls. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Put One of its former teachers was Andrija Kaćič-Miošić (1704-
igrališta 21. 1760), the Franciscan friar famous for penning Pleasant
Conversation of the Slav People, one of the first popular
Church of the Ascension (Crkva Uspenja histories of the Croatian nation. Just west of the monastery
Bogorodice) along Kačićeva and up some steps is the Lourdes Grotto,
A church of medieval origins, this plain but alluring stone an artificial cave holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was
beauty began life as the Church of the Holy Saviour, and built in imitation of the cave near Lourdes in France where
belonged to the Knights Templars then the Brotherhood the Virgin is said to have appeared to a local girl in 1858.
of Flagellants before becoming the convent church of the Mass: 18:30, Sun 08:30.QD‑3, Fra Andrije Kačića Miošića
Poor Clares in the 15th century. A fire in 1725 occasioned 11, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 09. Open by prior arrange-
a major rebuild, when a few Baroque details were added. ment.
The convent was closed by Emperor Joseph II, and the
church was handed over to the Orthodox congregation in The New Church (Nova crkva)
1808. It has been the centre of Šibenik County’s Orthodox Designed by Nikola Firentinac in 1502, the New Church is
community ever since. so-called because it was one of the last to be built within
Darkened by the smoke of innumerable candles, the in- the town walls. It was commissioned by one of Šibenik’s
terior contains an iconostasis studded with images of the most prestigious religious brotherhoods, the Brotherhood
Virgin Mary, several of which have been enhanced by the of St Mary. It is connected to the brotherhood’s ceremonial
addition of silver-plated halos or crowns. A colourful mod- hall on the other side of the alley by an archway. Mass: Sat
ern mural of Christ fills the apse. 20:00, September Sat at 19:00.The church is open only dur-
Incidentally, the church hosted one of the first ever theatre ing mass.QD‑2/E‑2, Ulica Nove Crkve.
productions in Šibenik in 1615, when the Poor Clares per-
formed a religious play on the subject of the Three Kings
– the roles were all taken by nuns. Mass Sat 18:00 and Sun Curiosity
09:00.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 54 Amor di cani
15. Open 08:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 21:00. Wandering the streets you’ll come upon two stone con-
tainers jutting out of a wall and one has the chiseled in-
Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva Svetog scription, ‘Amor De Cani’ (for the love of dogs). Historically,
Duha) animals suffering from rabies often had a fear of water and
Overlooking a small piazza, this dainty 17th-century affair locals could then identify those who’d keep distant, these
is one of central Šibenik’s most attractive little churches, days they serve as a healthy pit stop for cats and dogs
with arched roofline and a central rose window. Half way wanting some water.
up the façade is a relief of a bird, symbolizing the spirit
in the title. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Dinko
Zavorović Square. www.inyourpocket.com

28 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com


facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 29

The Šibenik Rebus Galleries
Dobrić is one of the narrow stepped streets that zig-zags
its way down from the Kalelarga towards the Riva, pass- St Chrysogonus Gallery
ing a small piazza about half-way down. High up on the As part of the old Romanic church, the main exhibiting
area is designed as the gallery of contemporary art in
façade of one of the piazza’s houses is Šibenik’s most
Šibenik. Exhibitions by Croatian and international artists
enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle. It basically consists
are often organized. The gallery also has a studio and the
of an oblong stone relief bearing five symbols – bird’s Matija Gallery in the historical part of Šibenik.QD‑3, Don
wings, crossed scythes, two wine flagons, a trio of gam- Krste Stošića bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49, www.galerija-
ing dice, and a human skull. The artisan who carved the sv-krsevana.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.
Rebus was obviously delivering a mischievously morbid
message, although opinion differs as to precisely what St Chrysogonus Gallery Studio (Matija
this is: a cautionary tale about the dangers of drinking and Gallery)
gaming seems to be part of the explanation. Whatever the The exhibiting area as part of the Sveti Krševan Gallery,
Rebus is warning you about, it seems certain that you will intended for contemporary art. It is located in the old
be quite dead at the end of it.QE‑3, Dobrić. baroque building in the centre of Šibenik.QF‑3, Petra
Nakića bb, www.galerija-sv-krsevana.hr. Open 09:00 -
12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.

Dražen Petrović Memorial Court
Šibenik’s most famous sporting son, Dražen Petrović, is
well remembered here. In Baldekin, a part of this coastal
town, alongside a memorial centre, you’ll find a court
dedicated to this former NBA great.QBaldekin.
Dražen’s Golf 1
The old white Volkswagen Golf Mk1 once owned by
Dražen Petrović, dubbed as the best Croatian and Euro-
pean basketballer of all time and NBA star, whose young
life was taken in a fatal car accident 24 years ago, has finally
been placed where it belongs – beneath his Memorial
centre at ‘Baldekin’, and this is where it will remain in the
future. There too is a monument of Petrović which helps
keep his memory alive! Pay a tribute…
Juraj Dalmatinac
The great Zadar-born stonemason was resident in Šibenik
from 1441 until his death over three decades later, despite
long absences working in Split, Dubrovnik, Ancona and
elsewhere. Šibenik folk regard him with justification as a
local, and this statue on the square outside the Cathedral
is very much a statement of municipal patriotism as well as
a mark of respect for a great architect.QD‑3/4, Trg Repub-
like Hrvatske.
Petar Krešimir IV (1058-1074)
King Petar Krešimir spent Christmas 1066 here and wrote
a proclamation in which Šibenik was mentioned by name,
the first ever historical document that did so. For this rea-
son, he’s regarded as something of a founding father by
the locals.QG‑3, Perivoj Robert Visiani.
Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica)
Running along one side of the square opposite the Cathe-
dral, this 16th-century Renaissance structure was almost
totally destroyed by allied bombing in 1943, and substan-
tially rebuilt in the aftermath. The beautifully proportioned
colonnaded loggia now houses the Vijećnica café-restau-
rant, and also forms the backdrop to many of the events
comprising the annual Šibenik Children’s Festival.QD‑3,
Šibenik Tourist Board Archives Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.

30 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com


Civitas Sacra
Interpretation Centre of St. James’ Cathedral (Interpretacijski centar katedrale
svetog Jakova)
Civitas Sacra – The Holy City programme, was developed in collaboration between the town of Šibenik, its tourist
board, as well as the diocese. At its centre is the Cathedral of St. James, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the recently
renovated Galbiani Palace. With tourism in mind, this programme will look to create new jobs as well as extend the
regional tourist season past the traditional summer months. 
Co-financed by the European Regional Development Fund, Civitas Sacra sees the now-open interpretive centre of
the cathedral, while the interior of the palace has been conceived as a modern, multimedia presentation of the
cultural and historical heritage of Šibenik, throughout the ages.QIvana Pribislavića 3. Open 08:30-21:00. 50/25kn,
family ticket 100kn (parents with small children).

Parks Šubićevac Park

Perivoj Robert Visiani For a taste of the arid Mediterranean landscape that char-
Named after the Šibenik-born 19th-century botanist, this acterises central Dalmatia head for this large wooded area
stretch of park was laid out in the 1890s, and a section of uphill from the centre, where a mazy network of paths
the medieval town wall was demolished to make way for leads up and down boulder-strewn knolls covered in a
it. A high proportion of evergreen trees and shrubs en- mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens. There’s a kids’ play-
sure that the park retains its colour all year round, while ground near the entrance, and good views over the south-
plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage provide waves eastern end of the city from the park’s higher reaches. It’s
of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was once the site also a good start or finishing point for those exploring the
of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (1802-1874), the nearby fortresses of St John and Barone.QF‑1, Šubićevac.
Šibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic who
had a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. It’s
now the site of a statue of King Petar Krešimir IV.QG‑3. www.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 31

Šibenik Surroundings

Can you have it all at once?

Old town, Mediterranean flair, all on a small
peninsula, breathtaking beaches and coves
and seductive, beautiful, perfectly clear sea...
Yes. You can have it all. In Primošten.

 +385 (0)22 581 111
32 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com
Šibenik Surroundings

 +385 (0)22 571 111



 +385 (0)22 581 223
facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 33

St Nicholas’ Fortress (Tvrđava

svetog Nikole)
Jutting out into the St Anthony’s Channel, the
narrow neck of water that leads from the Šibenik
Channel to the open sea, the smooth-pointed
triangle of St Nicholas’s Fortress is one of the
most elegant military buildings anywhere in the
Adriatic. It was built by Venetian military engi-
neer Gian Girolamo Sammicheli in the mid-16th
century to protect Šibenik from Ottoman naval
attacks. In 2017, it was included in UNESCO’s
World Heritage List making Šibenik only one of
five cities in the world with two ancient build-
ings listed. There are long-term plans to restore
the fortress. You can visit St. Nicholas’ Fortress,
organised by Priroda (Nature) a public institu-
tion of Šibenik-Knin County. You leave by boat
from the Krka berth on the Šibenik waterfront.
Schedule and prices can be found at tickets.
kanal-svetog-ante.com and the cost includes
travel (20 minutes either direction), admission
to the fortress (45 minutes sightseeing), tour
guides, and multilingual materials. Total time
approximately 2 hours.

Photo by Davor Šarić, JU Priroda ŠKŽ Archives

Fortifications (+385-) 091 497 55 47, www.barone.hr. Open 09:00 -

22:00. From September Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission
Barone Fortress 40/25kn (family 90kn). Another option is unified ticket
Today’s smart devices are virtual time machines. Don a valid for seven days, for visiting both, st.Michael’s and
pair of augmented reality (AR) glasses and use your smart Barone fortresses: 70/45kn (family 160kn).
phone and step 370 years into the past, to the 1646 Otto-
man siege of Šibenik. The defence of the city by the citi-
St John’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog
zens of Šibenik is told through an exhilarating audio and
video experience taking the viewer right into the centre
Built in 1646 at the time of the Candia War (when Venetan-
of the action. The siege takes place on Barone Fortress, a
fortification hastily built in just under two months lying controlled Dalmatia was engaged in a bitter struggle to
on the hills overlooking the city. The fortress was part of ward off Ottoman encroachment) this is a typical example
the defence system of Šibenik which included three other of 17th-century military architecture, its star-shaped plan
fortresses and together they served as the last line of providing any number of ideal angles for defensive artil-
defence against the invading Ottomans. While the other lery fire. Even today it is a stirring sight, its angular jutting
three fortresses were named after sacred buildings, this bastions surrounded by outcrops of limestone and spindly
one was named after Baron Degenfeld, a hero in the story evergreen trees. Getting here from the centre of town is
of the cities defence. The fortress soon fell into a state of fairly easy: from the main Kralja Zvonimira take Težačka
disrepair after the Ottoman invaders were repelled. It was then turn left into Zadarska Street, before turning right
several hundred years later, in the early 20th century that onto the steeply ascending Put V. Mandušića. Alterna-
the city of Šibenik purchased the fortress and its surround- tively, drive as far as Barone (see below) and take the foot-
ing land. It eventually gained use as a viewpoint overlook- path from there. Once you’re here, the access path to the
ing the city’s marina and archipelago, and as a recreational fortress itself leads through a stepped gateway and out
space for hiking. In January of 2016, Barone Fortress was onto a grassy plateau, where there are remains of barrack
finally reopened to the public. The opening ceremony blocks, powder stores, World-War-II gun positions and a
celebrated the rich cultural heritage of the city of Šibenik modern radio mast. The views, taking in St Michael’s For-
and marked the 950th anniversary of the first written men- tress and the Šibenik Channel, are well worth the uphill
tion of the city’s name.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. walk.QL‑2, www.tvrdjava-kulture.hr.

34 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

St Michael’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Fortress of Culture Šibenik Archives
One of the first things that visitors see when entering
Šibenik by road is the silhouette of St Michael’s Fortress,
which crowns the pyramidal hill above Šibenik’s Old Town.
Its importance to the Croatian state is illustrated by the
number of times that 11th-century Croatian kings brought
their court here – Petar Krešimir IV in 1066, Zvonimir in
1078, and Stjepan II in 1080. It was during Krešimir’s visit
that Šibenik was first mentioned in official documents,
which explains why the city is sometimes known to this
day as “Krešimir’s Town”.
Its floor plan has the shape of an irregular rectangle. There
are two square towers on its eastern side whereas two
polygonal towers sit along its northern front. Through-
out history, the fortress had been repeatedly destroyed
and rebuilt, and it experienced its greatest suffering in
1663 and 1752. Archaeological investigations inside the
monumental complex have found numerous remains of
material culture dating from prehistoric times to the late
Middle Ages. Running downhill from the fortress towards
the seafront are a crenellated set of double walls built in
the 15th century to provide access to the sea. Centuries
on and despite its majestic yet turbulent past, St. Michael’s
Fortress stands proud as a true landmark of the city, an
unavoidable destination of cultural tourism and of ut-
ter national significance. Nowadays and after extensive
reconstruction, the fortress serves a different purpose; it
has become a summer stage for various cultural and in
particular musical events thanks to its natural beauty and
location.QC‑2, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47,
www.svmihovil.sibenik.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. From Aquarium Šibenik
September Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 60/40kn
(family 140kn). Another option is unified ticket valid for Upon entering this old stone house situated 50m from
seven days, for visiting both, st.Michael’s and Barone the Cathedral, embark on a journey which brings to life
fortresses: 70/45kn (family 160kn). the local residents of the Adriatic Sea. This aquarium-
terrarium is a small zoo where you can experience the
depths of sea, rivers and lakes and meet various inter-
Religious Collections esting fish and reptiles.QD‑4, Kralja Tomislava 15a,
tel. (+385-) 099 212 58 19, www.aquariumsibenik.
Treasury of Benedictine Nunnery of com. May and June Check their Facebook page.
St Luce (Benediktinski samostan Sv. From July Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 40/30 kn.
Behind a plain green door on Kačićeva is one of
Šibenik’s most absorbing attractions, filled with reli-
gious objects that may not be astronomically valuable
but which nevertheless convey a rich love of crafts-
manship and sincere devotion. Most curious and most
captivating of the exhibits is a painted clay Madonna
dating from the 13th century. A stone inscription
above the entrance honours 17th-century benefactor
Nikola Buronja, who donated three of his own houses
in the order to help get the monastery started.QD‑3,
Kačićeva bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24. Open 9:00 -
12:00, 16:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun
by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 35

Šibenik Surroundings
5 Magical Islands With No Cars
The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvić, Kaprije and Žirje may
seem close to Šibenik geographically, but are light years
away in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built settle-
ments that appear to have changed little in decades (per-
haps even centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt
nature, they offer an entirely different experience of the
Adriatic. Getting to the islands is easy: Krapanj is accessible
by boat (roughly hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal vil-
lage 7km southeast of Šibenik; while Zlarin and Prvić lie on
the route of the Šibenik-Vodice ferry (2-4 daily depending
on season). A separate ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from
Šibenik to Žirje and Kaprije.

Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croa-
tian), Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads
and hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially it’s a
car free island, although there are a few old wrecks dot-
ted around the place that got here somehow). The small
village of Kaprije caters for the hundred-or-so permanent
inhabitants. Private rooms and apartments cater for a sum-
mer influx of tourists, although the island is never in dan-
ger of being overrun. Kaprije’s uniquely sheltered bay is an
increasingly popular anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk
exploring the nearby Kornati, while the island’s numerous
coves are ideal for a spot of secretive bathing.

Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the
low-lying island of Krapanj was once famous for being
the centre of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most
of the island’s male population devoting their time to
sponge-diving. Nowadays Krapanj is a relatively quiet but
undoubtedly attractive spot, with a line of stone houses
along the mainland-facing waterfront, and a handful of
souvenir shops selling sponge-themed gifts.
Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan
Monastery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia
were gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery
museum contains religious artworks, including an ex-
traordinarily expressive 15th-century crucifix carved by
Split-based priest Juraj Petrović. The walled graveyard
next door contains several family tombs honouring one-
time sponge divers, many pictured in relief form wearing
their large spherical deep-sea helmets. Head to the base-
ment of the nearby Hotel Spongiola to find a small but
entertaining display of exhibits connected with the local
sponge-harvesting industry, including a lead-booted
diving suit, and early 20th-century air pumps. Qwww.

Photo by Katarina Gregov, Zlarin Tourist Board Archives www.inyourpocket.com

36 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com


facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 37

Photo by Andrija Carli, Šepurine Beach at Prvić Island,
Šibenik Surroundings Vodice Tourist Board Archives

In many ways Prvić is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant
and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional
Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements
- Prvić Luka at the eastern end, and Šepurine at the west
- Prvić has a slightly larger permanent population and is
marginally more lively as a result. Prvić was traditionally
the summer retreat of Šibenik’s leading families, and re-
mains associated with one great Šibenik name in particular
- priest, diplomat and scientist Faust Vrančić (1551-1617).
Vrančić was buried in Prvić Luka’s parish church. Educated
in Padua, Vrančić served at the Habsburg court in Prague
before devoting himself to his writings. His Latin-Italian-
German-Hungarian-Croatian dictionary (published in
1595) was a landmark in Croatian language study. His more
famous Machinae Novae, published in Venice in 1615, con-
tains 49 copper-plate engravings of machines and inven-
tions, in conscious homage to the inventions of Leonardo
da Vinci published several decades earlier. Most famous
of the illustrations is Homo Volans, which pictures a man
descending through the air attached to a square canvas
English clergyman and scientist John Wilkins, writing some
30 years later, claimed that Vrančić actually tested the para-
chute himself by jumping from the belfry of St Mark’s Ca-
thedral in Venice.
A narrow lane leads over the brow of a hill from Prvić Luka
to the island’s other settlement, Šepurine. A hive-like village went into decline due to depleted stocks, although at least
of stone houses, Šepurine is centred on a parish church one coral-processing workshop still exists on the island,
whose distinctive bulbous belfry is topped by an extrava- and several souvenir shops open up in summer to sell coral
gant weather vane. Qwww.vodice.hr. bracelets and earrings.
Zlarin village is a beautiful settlement of stone-built houses
arranged around a bay. Key landmark is the impressive
Žirje clocktower built in 1829 and known as the Leroj (local ver-
Of Šibenik County’s permanently populated islands, Žirje is sion of the Italian word for clock, orologio), crowned by
both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scat- an attractively spindly weather vane. Slightly uphill to the
tering of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like west is the 18th-century Church of the Assumption, worth
Kaprije, virtually no motor transport), it is something of a a peek on account of the hairy-looking gargoyles gazing
Shangri-la among tourists for whom the phrase “getting down from either side of the pediment.
away from it all” really means what it says. Most of the island Occupying a stone house at the eastern end of town, Zlarin
is covered in maquis, although vines, olives and figs make Museum displays finds from a shipwrecked Roman galley
up an important part of the landscape. Newly marked bi- found by marine archeologists just off the Šibenik coast,
cycle- and footpaths provide an ideal means of exploring and an “ethnographic room” containing domestic uten-
the island. sils and traditional costumes. The upper floor of the same
building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop, where coral
is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You can admire all
Zlarin manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in the Zlarinka
Lying right opposite St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow wa- shop, and take a peek at the polishing process in the work-
terway that connects Šibenik with the open sea, Zlarin is a room next door.
green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs.Zlarin Further east, the Chapel of St Simon (Crkvica sv. Šime) has
has got the longest island promenade in Croatia (127.50m). a small collection of church treasures, open in the summer
Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Zlarin so the months. Continue along the road past the chapel and you’ll
most frequent names on the island are Srećko, Nato and arrive after 10 minutes at the Church of Our Lady of Raselj
Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated with the is- (Gospe od Raselje), a church of medieval origins that con-
land ever since the 15th century, when the raw coral was tains a miracle-working image of the Virgin. Inside, model
exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be processed ships hang from the ceiling as a gesture of thanks from de-
into fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral fishing vout sailors. Qwww.tz-zlarin.hr.

38 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings
Top Sights the 14th century, although the church we see today was
built in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the
region, it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the
Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding site of a much-visited church. A decree issued by Ottoman
The village of Betina on the island of Murter has a centu- Sultan Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in
ries-long tradition of wooden shipbuilding which is still 1674, is held in the monastery treasury.
well and truly alive today. Learn more about this fascinat- Upstream from Visovac, the ruins of Kamičak fortress can
ing craft through modern technology which helps visitors be seen on the cliffs above the eastern shore. Again built
vividly sense the cultural background to the story behind by the Nelipić family in the 13th century, it was demol-
this age old tradition. You can buy beautiful, authentic ished by the conquering Ottomans after 1522.QNP Krka,
and eco-friendly souvenirs in the museum shop and FYI; www.npkrka.hr.
it was recently awarded the ‘2018 Best European Museum
that works with its local residents’.QVladimira Nazora
7, Betina, tel. (+385-22) 43 41 05, www.mbdb.hr. June
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. July, August Open
10:00 - 22:00. September Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed
Sun. Admission 30/20 kn.

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre

Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes
it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the para-
chute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was
buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where
you can see drawings, book collections, models and pro-
totypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia
displays and educational games for youngsters!QI Ulica
1a, Prvić Luka, Prvić Island, tel. (+385-22) 44 81 28,
www.mc-faustvrancic.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 30/15
kn (family 60kn).

The Ivan Meštrović Museums – The

Church of the Holy Redeemer - The Krka National Park Archives, Burnum
Meštrović Family Mausoleum
Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice
is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Re- Archaeological Sights
deemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the vil- Burnum
lage. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the Just outside the Krka National park’s western bound-
sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood ary, the road from Kistanje to Knin forges across
here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in maquis-covered karst, passing the site of Burnum, the
Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the build- 1st-century Roman legionary camp that subse-
ing contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, quently developed into a civilian settlement. On the
with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals western side of the road lie the remains of an amphi-
of the Evangelists. Mass is only held here once a month, theatre, while further up to the east are the remaining
but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole two arches of the former military command post. A
year.QOtavice, Ružić, tel. (+385-) 098 40 75 38, www. footpath from Burnum to the Manojlovac rapids, deep
mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. From Oc- down in the Krka canyon to the east, is currently in the
tober Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon development stages.QNP Krka, www.npkrka.hr.
and holidays. 15/10kn.
Velika Mrdakovica - Arauzona
Visovac Monastery Arauzona History and mystery combined! Arauzona
Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into the is a rich archaeological site from the pre-Roman and
so-called Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which mea- Roman times where about one-hundred tombs have
sures 800m from shore to shore at its widest points. Grey- been discovered, some dating back from the 4th cen-
green hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination for tury B.C. Once a Roman settlement, some residential
the excursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely buildings were also found with signs of defensive
located on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A walls, streets and water tanks.
Franciscan foundation has existed on this site since at least

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 39

Šibenik Surroundings
Šibenik County (or Šibensko-kninska županija as it is known Knin
in Croatian) offers a huge amount of variety, with swanky
Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak
yachting marinas and party-till-sunrise tourist resorts rub-
Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of cru-
bing shoulders with archaic villages and large tracts of
cial strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade
sun-parched Mediterranean maquis. The Krka and Kornati
routes linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in
national parks are the two must-do daytrips, although with
more recent times the location of a major railway junc-
islands, coves and stony hillsides in abundance, you’re un-
tion. It’s most famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively
likely to be stuck for natural beauty spots.
well-preserved agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and
towers that hovers above the winding Krka river. An im-
Inland from Šibenik portant strongpoint from the 10th century onwards, Knin
became the capital of Croatia under King Zvonimir (ruled
Inland from Šibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized 1076-1089), a status it retained until 1097 when Croatia ac-
by jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry cepted the rule of the Hungarian crown. Knin remained a
shrubs. Here and there the maquis has been cleared to much-coveted military prize, falling to the Ottoman Turks
provide space for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the in 1522, who were in turn turfed out by the Venetians in
plots divided up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence 1688. Knin served as the headquarters of Serbian-occupied
of major towns like Drniš, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of territory during the 1991-1995 war, and the raising of the
land feature little apart from isolated farmsteads and end- Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August 1995 brought a
of-the-road villages, many featuring the rough-hewn stone highly symbolic end to hostilities.
architecture typical to this part of Dalmatia. Central Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and it’s best to
The river Krka is the area’s main natural feature and the Krka make your way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is
National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is rewarded by superb views of the surrounding countryside,
covered under a separate section below. with the mountains of the Dinara range filling the north-
ern horizon. The fortress itself is an extensive and highly
evocative complex of fortifications constructed at differ-
Drniš ent stages, filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and
Hugging the high ground above the Čikola river, Drniš was stairways beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from
a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman the highest point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with
Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre an unusually large Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knin’s
midway along the main road from Šibenik to Knin. highly significant place in the history of modern Croatia. In
Ruins of the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, the eastern part of the fortress, a former barrack building
the rocky hill above town. Little remains of this medieval houses an ethnographic collection displaying costumes
strongpoint save for a stark portion of the southern tower, and agricultural implements from the Knin region. Nearby,
which pokes up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a the fortress’s former hospital plays host to an archeological
minaret dating from around 1500, all that’s left of an Otto- museum.
man-era mosque. Thanks to a new lighting system installed
in December 2010, these ruins are dramatically illuminated Knin Tourist Board
at night. QTuđmanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66 48 22, www.tz-knin.
Occupying pride of place in the town itself is St Anthony’s hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,
Church, a 16th-century mosque that was converted to Closed Sun. From September Open 07:00-15:00; closed
Catholic use in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby Sat, Sun.
Visovac. Housed in the former home of Drniš politician Museum of the town of Knin
Nikola Adžija (1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has ar- QFra Luje Maruna 1, tel. (+385-22) 66 17 02, www.
cheological and ethnological displays alongside a collec- kninskimuzej.hr. Open 08:00-18:00. Admission 30 kn.
tion of works by Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrović
(1883-1962), who spent his early years in nearby Otavice.
Adžija was one of the early supporters of the young Otavice
Meštrović, helping to raise money that paid for the promis- Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is
ing local lad’s studies. celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeem-
er that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It
City Museum of Drniš was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculp-
QDomovinskog rata 54, tel. (+385-22) 88 67 74. Open tor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here
08:00-14:30; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 5kn. before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna,
Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains
Drniš Tourist Board some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal
QDomovinskog rata 5, tel. (+385-22) 88 86 19/(+385) Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists.
095 968 04 20, www.tz-drnis.hr. Open 07:00-15:00; Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is
closed Sun, Sat. open as a tourist attraction during whole year.
40 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com
Šibenik Surroundings
Skradin walls that have slowly collapsed with time, creating the en-
igmatic cones and pyramids seen today. Over to the west
Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the riv-
are the alluring profiles of the Kornati islands, and it is Murt-
er Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a flour-
er’s status as main gateway to the Kornati National Park that
ishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when
brings a constant stream of nautically-inclined visitors.
it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as
the 13th-century power-base for the Šubić princes of Bri-
bir, one of Croatia’s leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to
Tisno is Dalmatian dialect for ‘narrow’, which is an accurate
the Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to
description of the town’s location, hugging both shores of
Šibenik, although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684.
the narrow strait that divides the island of Murter from the
Nowadays it is an important stepping-stone for tourists
Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the strait is raised
bound for the Krka National Park, and an important inland
at regular intervals (twice a day in summer, at 9am and
stopping-off point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast.
5pm) to allow boats to pass through the town.
Skradin is increasingly well known as a gastronomic desti-
There is an engaging huddle of old buildings in the historic
nation, too, boasting a handful of restaurants offering su-
core of the town on the south side of the bridge, where
perb seafood and some unique regional treats.
the 18th century Katunarić Palace contains a small history
Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradin’s Old Town is cen-
display including finds from a Roman villa at nearby Plitka
tred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome
Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the Parish Church of the
Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From
Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to the hilltop shrine of Our
here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an
Lady of Caravaggio (Gospe od Karavaja), a popular pilgrim-
atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on
age site established by families who moved here from
either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts,
northern Italy in the late 17th century. There are sumptu-
Skradin’s waterfront is also the departure point for shuttle-
ous views of the surrounding countryside from the top.
boats into the Krka National Park (see p.44).
Back at sea level, the town’s long coastline on both sides
of the straits makes it perfect for extended shoreline strolls.
Skradin Tourist Board
The rock-and-pebble beaches at Lovišča (southwest) and
QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06, www.
Jazina (northwest) are ideal for a family-oriented splashing-
skradin.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. From
around holiday.
June 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Skradin Tourist Information Centre
A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay.
QŠibenska 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13
Jezera (“the Lakes”) gets its name from the seasonal ponds
29, www.skradin.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun.
that used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to
From June 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.
the village. One of them, called Lokva (”Puddle”), still ex-
ists behind the Parish Church and fills with water in rainy
North of Šibenik periods of the spring and autumn. The other one, known
as Blato (“Mud”), further south, was filled in during the early
The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete 20th century and is now grazing land. Jezera’s pretty centre
with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the spreads horseshoe-style around a bay raked with yacht jet-
smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide ties and breakwaters. The hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (im-
quieter alternatives. mediately south of the Lokva) provides an easy target for
recreational hikers. The best beaches are a long walk (or
Murter short drive) south of the village, in coves such as Podjase-
novac and Kromašna. The rural tracks linking Jezera with
Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy these and other bays forge their way through olive groves
bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a and are ideal for cycling.
self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on large-
sized package hotels, Murter has developed a regular cli- Murter
entele of independently-minded tourists who sleep in the With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive
island’s plentiful supply of private rooms and apartments, suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a re-
and - although it can be busy in summer - it has a more laxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern
laid-back atmosphere than the mainland towns. vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on
Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of Adri- the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why
atic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks, pines most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small
and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - many jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic
growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. Piles of front door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the high-
stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times when local est number of boats in proportion to the local population
villagers cleared the rocky ground to create small patches than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several
of cultivable land, collecting the spoil into thick dry-stone yachting marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern

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Šibenik Surroundings
end of town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic,
with a big repair yard.
Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped,
café-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out to-
wards a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern
end. Stroll west from here along the narrow alleyway
known as Luke to enjoy a taste of Murter’s traditional stone
architecture. One of the most atmospheric parts of town is
Selo, grouped around a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south
of the seafront. The narrow streets of Selo lead uphill to-
wards St Rock’s Chapel (Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming
whitewashed building that is the site of a major religious
procession on St Rock’s Day (August 16). From the chapel’s
forecourt you can enjoy a stupendous panorama of Murter
with the lumpy brown-green forms of the Kornati islands
rising up in the distance. The narrow streets below the
chapel contain some of the oldest and most picturesque of
Murter’s stone houses.
Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side
of town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of
an Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans -
who went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the
hill’s slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the grave-
yard of the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od
Gradina) and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman
villa, its walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide
an idea of what it once looked like.
There is not a great deal else of Colentum to see (much of
it lies underwater), but the bayside location is a powerfully
evocative spot.

Most popular of Murter’s beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of

the main square, a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets
crowded in summer. There are bars and a pizzeria behind
the beach, and coastal paths that lead to rockier (and po-
tentially more secluded) parts of the coast in either direc-

Follow the coastal path south from Slanica and you will
arrive after 20-30 minutes at Čigrađa beach, an attractive
crescent of pebble bordered by a jetty for small boats.
Behind the beach lies a cool beach bar in the shape of
Lantana (see p.35) and a well-regarded seafood restaurant
(the Čigrađa, see p.29). Čigrađa can also be reached by road
from the centre of Murter - take the main southbound road
out of town and turn right when you see the sign.

Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland
(and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village
of Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and part
of the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards cater-
ing for yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre of the
settlement is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys grouped
around the Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva svetog Frane),
Photo by Stanko Ferić, DSF, Drniš, famous for its distinctive octagonal belfry topped by a bul-
Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board Archives bous red dome and spindly weather vane.

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Šibenik Surroundings
Betina Tourist Board Tribunj Tourist Board
QDolac 2a, tel. (+385-22) 43 65 22, www.tz-betina.hr. QBadnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 61 43, www.tz-tribunj.hr.
Open 08:00 - 20:00. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat. From June Open 08:00
- 20:00.
Jezera Tourist Board
QPut Zaratića 3, tel. (+385-22) 43 91 20, www.tzjezera.
hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat and Sun. From June Vodice
15 Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the most-
visited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel
Murter - Kornati Tourist Board developments on either side of its broad bay and a large
QRudina bb, tel. (+385-22) 43 49 95, www.tzo-murter. and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is
hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in
August Open 08:00 - 22:00. the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise
sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment
Tisno Tourist Board buildings.Vodice has over 6 km of well maintained, mostly
QIstočna Gomilica 1a, tel. (+385-22) 43 86 04, www.tz- pebble beaches. There you’ll find all kind of activities, bars,
tisno.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed restaurants and other facilities that will make your days
Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00. at the beach fulfilled and special. Also, with its three dog
beaches, Vodice is an ideal destination for vacationing with
Pirovac pets.
The town gets its name from the many sources of drink-
Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik, able water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”). Indeed
Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by a the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water
tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped
gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the water system was constructed.
historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić
and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish
Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the
15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans.  A
Pirovac Tourist Board solid-looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquar-
QKralja Krešimira IV br. 6, tel. (+385-22) 46 67 70, www. ium, which contains an entertaining and educational dis-
tz-pirovac.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. From play of Adriatic sea creatures, which – featuring sea bream,
June 15 - September 15 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 sea bass and dentex – looks rather like a 3-D menu for the
- 13:00. seafood restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is
a fine collection of antique amphorae salvaged by under-
water archeologists, and an impressive collection of model
Tribunj boats from all ages and countries – they range from tradi-
Thirty minutes’ walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tri- tional Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish
bunj is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a thumb- warship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes
shaped island joined to the mainland by a bridge. There’s of its launch.
a tight cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large
yachting marina on the opposite side of the bay. Vodice Tourist Board
Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88,
Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
a shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that
features an intricate model ship. For those who need to
stretch their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunj’s parish
South of Šibenik
church towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing
shrines marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There South of Šibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline
are splendid views of the coastline from the summit. lined with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and
To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting rocky beaches. The main resorts here are Primošten, 21km
on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach that’s a south of Šibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patron-
peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice. ized hotels; and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of
Tribunj’s other main claim to fame is the festival of don- the region’s biggest yachting marinas.
key races that takes place every year in the first week of One the way there you’ll pass plenty of characterful, quieter
August. The traditional local affection for the four-legged spots. Grebaštica lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the
braying beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski ruins of a Venetian defensive wall.
Tovar (“Croatian Donkey”) organization, formed in 1999. Dolac, just south of Grebaštica, is a small coastal village
There is a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs of rock - per-
offshore to the southwest. fect platforms for a summer skin-roasting session.

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Šibenik Surroundings

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Šibenik Surroundings
Catching sight of Primošten from the coastal road is one
of the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croa-
tian Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed
onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while
the wooded peninsula of Raduča sprouts off to the north,
fringed by a large and splendid gravel beach.
Primošten’s origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of
Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of
the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast.
The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (“Bare Head”)
was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was
constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the
resulting town became known as Primošten (which might
be loosely translated as “the place with a bridge across”).
As the Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was
replaced by a stone causeway, turning Primošten into the
peninsula town that visitors see today.
On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stone-
roofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue
of Don Ivo Šarić (1915-1944), who attempted to protect
the local population against atrocities by both Italian and
German occupiers during World War II, before finally being
murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a
typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with laven-
der bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding
over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece
Primošten Tourist Board Archives of sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by
wife and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an
arched gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into
Biking the Old Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround
the 15th-century parish church of St George.
There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on
Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who
the mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increas- had a summer villa here), the beaches of Raduča are
ingly popular draws. packed with bathers in summer.
In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths
from Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and Inland from Primošten
from Skradin to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site. Occupying the high ground uphill from Primošten is an en-
There are a couple of bicycle rental points in Skradin chanting area of maquis-choked villages and country lanes
during the summer. lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives and
Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region until
hinterland of Primošten, where a network of marked tourism took off and the working lives of the locals become
routes make use of both tarmac roads and gravelly off- focused on the coast. All of the villages here have suffered
road trails to explore ancient villages such as Draga, rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have been
Široke and Burnji together with their hillside-hugging left to go to seed - although an increasing number of lo-
vineyards and olive groves. cal families are returning to their ancestral properties and
Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all revitalizing the olive groves.
the archeological and cultural landmarks on the main- The region’s rich stock of traditional stone buildings is in-
land, as well as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour creasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the popu-
as well. larity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the hill-
The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially side village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic
in spring and autumn when there is not too much traf- displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food
fic on the roads. and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a
At the northwestern end of Šibenik county, the seaside result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although
resort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The
the Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking restored farmstead represents the life’s work of local priest
trails have been marked. Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and
You can get a map at any of the respective tourist of- whose family have been masters of the property for sev-
fices. eral generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old
main building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a

46 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

restored kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On

the opposite side of a terraced garden are several outbuild-
ings that were acquired by the family later, holding a small
museum of church silverware and a picture gallery of works
donated by contemporary Croatian artists. For more infor-
mation see Agritourism on page 51.

Primošten Tourist Board

QTrg Josipa Biskupa Arnerića 2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11,
www.tz-primosten.hr. Open 08:00-22:00.

Rogoznica Tourist Board
Southernmost of Šibenik County’s seaside resorts is
Rogoznica, an attractive island village joined to the main-
land by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone
houses rising above a palm-splashed Riva, it’s an undeni-
ably attractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite
side of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination
with the yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of
the village, Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semi-
circular building holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub.
Just behind the marina is Zmajevo Oko (“Eye of the Drag-
on”), a crater-like salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs.
North of the marina is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a
significant stretch of pebble beach backed by dense pines.
QObala Kneza Domagoja 56, tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53,
www.loverogoznica.eu. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Rogoznica Tourist Board Archives

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Šibenik Surroundings
Nature Wonderland Krka National Park
Much of the landscape inland from Šibenik is shaped by
Eye of the Dragon the Krka, the 72.5km-long river that rises in the arid karst
This small lake known as the Dragon’s Eye is a sight to see, near Knin before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spec-
its lack of oxygen gives it unique features similar to the tacular series of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tum-
Black Sea. It’s located on the Gradina peninsula and near bling waterfalls. The valley’s most dramatic stretches,
the town of Rogoznica. This little natural wonder is sur- between Skradin and 3.5km downstream of Knin, fall un-
rounded by cliffs and legend has it that if two lovers bathe der the protection of the Krka National Park (Nacionalni
in the Dragon’s Eye, they will be eternally faithful to each park Krka), which is visited by an average of one million
other and their marriage will be blessed with eternal love people a year.
and healthy children.QRogoznica. About 90% of these visitors never get any further than
Skradinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids
Kornati National Park within the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced
Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime land- on the cover of many a tourist brochure. However there
scapes, and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most is much more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially
bewitching of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly in the upper (northern) reaches of the park, where visitor
150 islands, the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous facilities and trekking routes are recently being developed.
for exuding a barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands Fauna in the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the
are arid affairs, with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass more elusive wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the
punctuated by limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many valley play host to various communities of bats, who play
of the islands on the western side of the archipelago fea- an important role in eating mosquitoes and other irritating
ture spectacular cliffs, rising some 80 metres above sea waterside insects. It’s also an area rich in historical reso-
level in the case of those on the island of Klobučar, while nances, with ruins of fortresses recalling the region’s erst-
man-made features include the dry-stone walls that streak while status as a disputed borderland between warring
across age-old pasturelands. Lapped by clear seas, the is- empires, and waterside monasteries providing evidence
lands constitute an area of extraordinary natural beauty, of a rich spiritual culture.
and 89 of them fall under the protection of the Kornati
National Park, founded in 1980. Visiting the park
Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by fami- There are five main entrance points to the park. The first
lies from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant is the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 18:00 July, August
olives or harvest honey. The islands have no permanent Open 08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Informa-
population, although parts of the archipelago are season- tion Centre sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains
ally inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving an educative audio-visual display detailing the flora and
the summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking fauna of the park. There is also a boat service (hourly in
complete seclusion. The church of our Lady of Tarac on the season) from Skradin to Skradinski buk. The second is
island of Kornat is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage Lozovac (Open 08:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 08:00 -
on the first Sunday of July, when the population of Murter 20:00), on the plateau above the Krka, from where you can
heads for the island in a festive flotilla of boats. descend to Skradinski buk either on foot (20min) or via
Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout shuttle bus. The third is Roški slap (June - August Open
the summer, most departing at around 09:00 and return- 09:00 - 20:00), although the road is narrow and there is not
ing towards 18:00. Most of the tourist agencies from Zadar much parking space. The fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00
to Primošten offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300kn - 18:00 July, August Open 09:00 -20:00) on the road from
per person, including lunch on the boat or one of the Kistanje towards Knin and the last one is Kistanje (Open
islands and maybe the odd glass of wine on the journey 10:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 10:00 - 20:00). (During the
back. These day trips provide a general idea of the Kornati other months please check the Park’s Web site or give
landscape, but to appreciate them to the full you most them a call to check opening hours.)
definitely need your own boat – and a couple of days to Daily tickets (June 110/80kn, July and August 200/120kn)
spare. For yachtsmen, ACI marinas exist on the island of and three-visit tickets (June 230/180kn, July and Au-
Piškera, inside the boundaries of the Park, and on Žut, just gust 320/200kn) that includes three visits to the Park within
outside it. Yachtsmen will have to buy an entrance ticket to a one week period from the date of purchase and can be
the national park, sold by the Kornati National Park office bought at Skradin branch office or at the entrance points
in Murter, marinas in the islands themselves, in some char- described above. The ticket price includes rides on the na-
ter companies, travel agencies from Zadar to Primošten. tional park’s shuttle boats from Skradin to Skradinski buk,
Or from the receptionist in the “mobile” receptions who but does not include travel on excursion boats heading fur-
are patrolling the Kornati waters by speedboats.QButina ther north into the park – these must be paid for separately.
2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40, www.np-kornati.hr. Skradinski buk
Entrance tickets cost 150 - 14 000kn depending on the Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the
size of the boat and period of the year (price list is on Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed
the web site). by the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine,

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Šibenik Surroundings
Krka National Park, photo by shutterstock.com

the limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses

and moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an
ongoing process, with Skradinski buk’s travertine barriers
growing and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year.
The travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal
falls, each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The
place gets its name from the Croatian word buka (“rack-
et”), a reference to the noise generated by the water
rushing over the rapids. Skradinski buk was once a mill-
ing settlement at which the rushing waters of the Krka
were harnessed to power a variety of machines. Some
of the stone mill buildings have been restored, and visi-
tors can see working examples of flour and fulling mills,
alongside displays of traditional costumes and agricul-
tural implements.
Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski vi-
dikovac), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting
Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875.
A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the
hydroelectric power station built by Šibenik mayor Ante
Šupuk and brother Marko Šupuk in 1895. It was the sec-
ond AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the
Forbes dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed
just months previously. The Šupuks formed a private com-
pany in order to build and manage the power station,
the first of its kind in Dalmatia. When Šupuk died in 1904,
the whole of Šibenik’s electric lighting was switched off
in his honour. Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is
a wooden bridge that crosses a wide pool of river water
right below the biggest of Skradinski buk’s waterfalls. This
broad stretch of shallow water is Skradinski buk where you
are allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys
prevents bathers from getting right up close to the water- at Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers’ settlement
fall itself. On the other side of the river is a network of trails beside the river, with displays of milling and weaving tech-
leading up and down the hillside beside many of Skradin’s niques inside.
tumbling streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks
built on stilts to keep your feet dry during bouts of sea- Krka Monastery and beyond
sonal flooding. Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km
north of Roški slap (and accessible via minor road from
Ključica Kistanje), the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is ar-
Hovering above the river Čikola, which flows into the Krka guably the best known of Croatia’s handful of Orthodox
just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Ključica Fortress is monasteries. It was founded in 1345 thanks to an endow-
part of the fortification system developed by the medieval ment by Princess Jelena, a sister of the Serbian Tsar Dušan
Nelipić family, who controlled the trade routes between who married a Croatian prince of the Šubić family. Famous
Šibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported for its Romanesque bell tower and arcaded cloister, the
in both directions. The Nelipić clan’s tight grip on com- monastery is also known for its early-Christian catacombs
merce was much resented by others in the region, and – although they are not always open to visitors.
Ključica was sacked by forces from Šibenik in the mid-14th Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipić
century. Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell cliff-top fortresses, Bogočin.
into disuse when they were driven out by the Venetians North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch
in 1684. of the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides.
Perched on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of
Roški slap the park’s most dramatic fortresses, Nečven to the east,
Excursion boats continue from Visovac to Roški slap 5km and Trošenj immediately opposite to the west. Trošenj
north, a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that once served as the power base of the Croatian Šubić fam-
marks the northern end of Visovac lake. Roški slap is also ily, although the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a
accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from gaol. It was notorious as a place of execution - throwing
Đevrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo), offenders from high windows being the favoured form of
although parking space is limited when you get there. As capital punishment.

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Šibenik Surroundings
ment was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribu-
tion, when the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of
town was divided up and shared out among the locals.
Over the course of ten years hillside terraces were built,
fields were cleared and dividing walls were erected with
geometrical precision, producing the unique vineyard
landscape that can be seen today. Such is its beauty
that the Croatian government is considering putting the
Primošten Vineyards forward as a candidate for inclusion
on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik
yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several ter-
raced slopes. Several foot- and bicycle paths allow visitors
to explore the landscape at close quarters.

Banovi dvori
Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno on a well-signed
country road, Banovi dvori serves up authentic local
culinary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmo-
spheric dining room with wooden ceiling beams,
stuffed animals above the bar, and an all-pervading
aroma of good cooking. Speciality of the house is
lamb or veal cooked under a peka, a metal lid covered
in glowing embers. These meals take two hours to pre-
pare, which is why it is a good idea to ring and reserve
early in the day - or risk going hungry. Accompanied
by potatoes baked in the same pot, the resulting meals
are wonderfully succulent and generously-portioned:
ask for a doggy bag if you can’t quite finish your din-
Puljane Eco Campus ner off in one go. The house wine (red Plavina or white
Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east Debit) comes from the owner’s back-garden planta-
twists its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing tion. He sells self-produced olive oil, honey and rakija
the river at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau to boot.QDubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel. (+385- 22)
on the opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeologi- 46 63 79/(+385-) 098 33 68 85, www.banovidvori.
cal display devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened com.hr. Open by prior arrangement.
in 2010. There is also a look-out point affording fine views
of the canyon.QŠibenska bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 49 Etnoland
35 40, www.np-krka.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. From June Set out on a journey, into the heart of Dalmatian cul-
Open 08:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 19:00. ture. Starting in serene Pakovo Selo, you can take a
1 hour award-winning tour (guided or self guided)
Primošten Vineyards through the Etnoland where you will listen to ancient
The best of Šibenik county’s velvety Babić wine comes tales, see and learn about Dalmatian customs and
from the vineyards ranged across the hills around traditions, walk through authentic stone houses, and
Primošten, a geometric cluster of small rectangular plots experinece much more. According to your wishes, a
owned by individual local families. With each of these traditional dinner or lunch is provided with roast un-
rectangular parcels surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the der the “peka”, grappa, wine, and prosciutto tasting
vine-bearing hillside terraces look strikingly decorative (price from 15€). The tour is arranged by appointment
when seen from a distance, and are somewhat appropri- and please visit our website www.etnoland.com for
ately described as the “stone lace of Primošten” in local more information and booking options. Awarded the
tourist literature. best tourist attraction offer in continental Croatia, 2012
These terraces are the result of generations of back-break- and best interpretation of cultural heritage in Croatia
ing toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be 2016.  QPut Čikole 4, Pakovo Selo, tel. (+385-) 099
laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches 220 02 00, www.etnoland.com. Open by prior ar-
of land. Primošten’s oldest vineyards probably date from rangement. Tour price with included tastings start-
the 16th century, although extra impetus to their develop- ing from 15€.

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 51

Family Fun
Aquapark Dalmatia successfully treated and returned to the wild. Individual
The first water theme park in Dalmatia! Aquapark Dalmatia visitors are free to admire and photograph any birds cur-
is fun for every age, and also features a special zone for the rently kept in the Centre’s holding cages (buzzards and ea-
youngest visitors. Go at your own pace; the cascading bar- gle owls being the most numerous patients), a wonderful
rel of Aqua Rain fortress and various water slides provide experience that will bring you face to face with creatures
an exhilarating experience while the Lazy River provides that you would normally never see at such close quarters.
a more relaxed tempo.QAmadria Park, Hoteli Solaris Pre-booked groups may also be treated to displays of fal-
86, tel. (+385-22) 36 59 51, www.amadriapark.com/ conry.QŠkugori 47a, Dubrava kod Šibenika, tel. (+385-)
aquapark-dalmatia. Admission 110/80kn. No admission 091 506 76 10, www.sokolarskicentar.eu. Open 09:00-
for kids 0-3 years old. 19:00. Admission 50/40 kn.
Dalmatian Ethno Village Tourist punkt Šibenik plus
A ‘living museum’, Dalmatian Ethno Village carries local Promoting slow tourism, this agency creates more inti-
food traditions forward in a true-to-life, rural ambience. mate special theme tours, like Cool night tour, Eco, Wine
The Village presents a hands-on, garden-to-plate dining and dine or In search of the lost Mediterranean, one day
experience that is not only a social ritual, it’s a complete tour on a traditional wooden boat consisting of sailing
way of life! Where possible, ingredients are organically through Šibenik archipelago and a visit to unique islands
grown and harvested on the premises, then used in daily Prvić and Zlarin. ...Accommodation and rentals too.QC‑4,
meal preparation. The menu also features home-made Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385-)
produce by in-house artisans.   QAmadria Park, Hoteli 095 914 24 49, www.sibenikplus.com. Open 09:00-
Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 39 51, www.amadriapark. 21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; closed Sun.
com/dalmatian-ethno-village. Open 12:00-14:30,19:00-
23:00. T­E­K
Photo by Stipe Surac, Šibenik Falconry Centre Archives Banj
The beach is over 12000 square meters and also includes
facilities such as a skate park, basketball court, beach vol-
leyball, free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restau-
rants, a children’s playground, and more.QJ‑2.

Poking out to sea on the western side of St Anthony’s
Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas, the Jadrija
peninsula is the site of Šibenik’s municipal lido. During
the summer months it can be reached via hourly taxi
boat from the Riva. Jadrija was laid out as the municipal
beach in 1921 by local benefactor Šime Grubišić Rovilo
(1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an old-style
bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms and neat
functional rows of changing cubicles.

This is the newest beach on the block with a 500 me-
tre long strip in Brodarica, near Šibenik, and it is divided
into sections from families with children to a sports and
recreational area. Attractions include a basketball court,
a beach volleyball court, a street gym, a disabled beach
ramp, a covered children’s playground, a green garden,
catering facilities and more. 
Šibenik Falconry Centre
Located in woods near Dubrava 8km north of the city cen- Solaris
tre, the Šibenik Falconry Centre was founded in 2000 to One of the finest beach resorts of the highest regard. It
protect birds of prey and educate the local public about includes beach bars, hotels, restaurants, cafes, sports,
wildlife conservation issues. As a collection centre for in- markets, yachting, aqua park and kilometres of pebbled
jured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it beaches to devour. QHoteli Solaris 86.
has become a major tourist attraction. The centre receives
birds of prey from all over Croatia, most of which are vic- Žaborić
tims of their interaction with human civilization: typical As it is only 10km from Šibenik, Žaborić has a beach that
cases include birds injured by collisions with cars or elec- combines sand and pebbles, it is perfect for a family with
tric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds that were kids as you can ooze your way into the crystal clean waters.
inappropriately kept as pets by humans. The majority are Don’t forget your sun umbrellas!QŽaborić.

52 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Antique Market
A small yet charming antiques fair runs only on Fridays
and Saturdays during winter, but in the summer sea-
son it is open every day except on Sundays. It just may
happen that whilst passing by St. Francis’ Church, you
find a rare copy of your favourite book or an old pocket
watch or painting that will capture your heart and extend
your home collection of antique items.QD/E/F‑2, Trg
N.Tomasea, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 67/(+385-) 098 23 58
64, www.antikvar2427.com. From June Open 08:00 -
20:00. N

Art Galleries
A beautiful gallery where you can find that special gift,
souvenir, or ornament, big or small, they have it all! All
items and works are handmade by Croatian designers,
painters, and ceramists... Worth a peek!QE‑3, Dobrić 4,
tel. (+385-22) 21 20 47. Open 09:30-22:00. J

Ines Vlašić Gallery

Family owned gallery that showcase unique form of art-
work, in particular jewellery and sculptures.QD‑4, Trg
Republike 6, tel. (+385-) 095 695 55 69, www.inesvlasic.
com. July - September 30 Open 10:00 - 19:00. A­J

Juraj Dalmatinac Gallery

In a beautiful setting that exudes the Mediterranean, you
will find works of art by academic painters, jewellery and Delicatessen
pieces of clothing by Croatian designers, and authentic Barone Shop
souvenirs handmade and autochtonic to this area.QE‑3, So you’ve just tried a glass of wine in the bistro that’s
Don Krste Stošića 14, tel. (+385-) 091 288 79 91. Open tingled the tonsils, then head into the shared space of
09:00-22:00. A the Barone bistro and enter its wine shop, here you can
buy wines as well as original products by Croatian prod-
Lana Art
uct designers.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-)
A gallery presenting the work of Lana herself, as well as
other artists from Šibenik and all over Croatia.QE‑2, Faus- 091 497 55 47, www.barone.hr. Open 09:00-20:00. June,
ta Vrančića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 91/(+385-) 091 87 98 July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. From September Open
03. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. 09:00 - 20:00. A
Closed Sun. A
Nira delicije
When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and rejoice in lo-
made in croatia cal delicacies such as the prestige Drniš prosciutto, pan-
Čivljak cetta, cheese, honey, honey products, wines, cranberry,
This little jeweller is famous for puce and bagatin – filigree orange and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice meat
buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk costume, often products for you. Take out only!QL‑3, Stjepana Radića 8,
elaborate in design.QF‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385- tel. (+385-) 099 252 75 01. Open 07:00-14:00; Sat 07:00-
22) 21 20 64. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00; closed Sun. A
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Oleoteka Uje
Deni Design Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils,
Original jewellery hand-made from Adriatic coral and jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s
stones.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II bb (Fausta Vrančića 1), all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it,
tel. (+385-22) 41 00 71. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00- ‘olive oil’.QD‑3, Dragojevića Stube 1, tel. (+385-) 095 198
13:00; closed Sun. From August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A 02 06, www.uje.hr. Open 09:30-20:00. A


facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 53

The allure of asparagus, the charm of chard. Cheeky to-
matoes, apricots as soft as a baby’s bum: who can resist
a Mediterranean open air market? Šibenik’s marketplace is
not to be missed: it’s full of colour, local produce and crazy
characters. Why buy plastic fruit from the supermarket
when you can buy the real thing and enjoy some friendly
banter into the bargain?QG‑2/3, Stankovačka 9. Open
06:00-13:00; Sun 07:00-10:00.

Shopping centres
City Life
QAnte Šupuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 44, www.city-
life.com.hr. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. W

Swan Atelier QVelimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 61, www.
Drifting from the big brands and venturing dalmare.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. July
into a world of true originality, the Swan Ate- and August Open 09:00 - 21:00. W
lier is a platform for authentic Croatian de-
signers and their fashionable clothing prod- SP Supernova Šibenik
ucts, accessories, jewellery and more. Be QPut Vida 6, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.supernova.
sure to find that special piece to take home hr. Open 09:00-21:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June
and add to your wardrobe as a memento of Open 09:00 - 22:00. W
Šibenik!QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 12,
tel. (+385-) 091 545 64 70, www.facebook.
com/swanateliersibenik/. A Souvenirs
Galerija Sv. Kristofor
A majestic place of holy and sacral objects that include
Skradinske delicije rosary beads, paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and
As well as running a highly recommended restaurant, this other religious items.QD‑3, Sv. Luce 2, tel. (+385) 092 105
family business produces its own wine, rakija, skradinska 91 64. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet and has a From June Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a little kiosk
in the car park during the summer months where you can NP Krka
buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles.QA- Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans.QE‑3, Trg
leja Skradinskih svilara 8, Skradin, www.skradinske- Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.npkrka.hr.
delicije.hr. June - September Open 08:00 - 24:00. Open 07:00-20:00. A
Deni Design Archives
Svijet čaja
Devotees of tea may just find themselves in heaven with
a vast range of teas from all four corners of the globe.
Choose from black, green, ayurveda, herbal, fruit flavours
and more.QFra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22) 31 01
67, www.cajoteka.com.hr. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 08:00-
13:00; closed Sun. A

Sv. Lovro Olive Oil Rafinery

Cold pressed olive oil just the way it’s been made here
since 1854.QKrapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95. Open by
prior arrangement. N

A shop at the winery gates sells bottles at discount prices
– a good opportunity to pick up a bottle or two of Babić.
QVelimira Škorpika 2, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 33 40
11, www.vinoplod-vinarija.hr. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat
08:00-14:00; closed Sun. N

54 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around
Tourist punkt + for your holiday in Šibenik region
Šibenik Plus is the proud winner of The Golden Embroidery, awarded to the best tourist agency in Šibenik region

We don't do all different things, but we do all things in a different way.

HR – AB – 22 – 15010007318
You are welcome on our website www.sibenikplus.hr or in our friendly agency on the waterfront promenade in Šibenik,
just 100 m away from St. James Cathedral, by the sea, in the direction of the city beach ...
www.sibenikplus.hr e-mail: info@sibenikplus.com phone: +385 22 410 259 mobile: +385 95 914 2449

Arriving By bus Arriving By plane

Šibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Za-
5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5 ex- dar (50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar
press buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey airports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get
time of 4hr 20min. There is an additional handful of Zagreb- an onward service to Šibenik. Journey times to Šibenik from
to-Šibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar Zadar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from
or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from Split expect around 1hr 50min.
136kn to 151kn one way.
Šibenik also lies on the route of many long-distance bus
routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in the north to Split and Du-
Arriving By train
brovnik in the south – so arriving here from elsewhere on Getting from Zagreb to Šibenik by train takes about nine
the Adriatic coast is relatively easy. hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change
The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and trains. As of this spring, weekend trains at Knin will be re-
patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs, a placed by buses. Although Šibenik is connected to Perković
left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 4 - 5 on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent a
kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 05:00 - 22:00), great way of getting around the county. Perković-Zagreb
information desk (Open 05:00 - 22:00) and a public toi- trains do pass through the inland towns of Drniš and Knin,
let (07:00 - 22:00). but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making
day trips by rail rather impractical. Šibenik train station is
Šibenik Coach Station about ten minutes’ walk west of the Old Town. There is a
QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 36 83 68. café at the station (Open 06:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun.), ticket
office and information desk (Open 06:00 - 22:00), a public
toilet, but no left-luggage facilities.
Arriving By car
From Zagreb: Šibenik lies just over 300km from the Croa- Main train station
tian capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift QL‑3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99,
and highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the www.hzpp.hr.
bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way
through the dramatic Velebit mountains, you’re in for an ex-
hilarating ride. Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway, and
the Zagreb-Šibenik stretch will set you back about 152kn Šibenik does not have its own airports but is served by Za-
(car) or 92kn (motorbike) each way. dar airport to the northwest and Split airport to the south-
From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: Šibenik is on east.
Croatia’s main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from
Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka
a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most Split-Kaštela)
beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe. However it QCesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 1270, Kaštel Štafilić, tel.
can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.split-
it might be worth heading inland and picking up the mo- airport.hr.
torway for a stretch or two.
Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar)
QZemunik Donji, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax
www.inyourpocket.com (+385-23) 20 58 33, www.zadar-airport.hr.

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 55

Arrival & Getting Around
Biking Tourist Punkt Šibenik Plus
Rental and delivery of bikes can be arranged by email or
Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-exist- phone, and prices depend on the model varying from 100-
ent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the 120 kn per day. This is reduced if rented for a longer period
city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to of time.QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22)
another of course. There are a few bike stores around town 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, www.sibenikplus.com.
that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; closed Sun.
for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted.
Option two is the ‘Nextbike’ system where you can rent
and return a bike at any one of six city locations. The initial Car rental
amount you pay is 80kn and that amount is used as credit Avax ABC Rent a car
for bicycle rental… FYI, each day users have a 30-minute QDraga 11, tel. (+385-) 099 616 37 63, www.avaxrent.
free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then com. Open 07:00-22:00.
there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).
Bike and hike QTrg Drage 12, tel. (+385-22) 33 15 55/(+385-) 099 265
Website with lots of information about exploring Šibenik 90 95, www.novarentacar.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. A
Knin County on bike. It has routes, maps, cycling events,
stops offs, tours, service spots and much more. Qwww.
bikeandhike.hr. Ferries
Šibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hop-
Tourist Information ping, with 2-3 daily Šibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer
but watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via
the enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvić. The trip is a sce-
The local tourist association offices listed in this guide nic wonder, taking you through the Šibenik canal and offer-
can help you out with a whole lot of information about ing fantastic views of the St. Nicholas sea fort as you pass.
individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should Journey times are short, with the whole Šibenik-Vodice
mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic, journey taking just over one hour.
so you might want to check on their Web sites or give Further offshore, the islands of Kaprije and Žirje are linked
them a call before trekking over. to the mainland less often and take slightly longer to get to,
but still represent an eminently accessible day out from the
Tourist Information Centre city. Note that almost all of these services are for passengers
QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 and bicycles only - you can’t take a car on board unless trav-
44 11/(+385-22) 21 44 48, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. elling on selected Žirje services.
Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier on
September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00
the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be
- 14:00.
bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office
diagonally opposite the jetty.
Association of Tourist Guides “Miho-
The island of Krapanj, just off the shore opposite the set-
vil” Šibenik
tlement of Brodarica, is reached by hourly passenger boat
QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3 (TIC), tel. (+385-)
099 684 10 16, www.vodici-sibenik.hr. from the Brodarica waterfront (pay on board).
Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to the main-
Public Institution of Krka National land by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the tourist
Park excursions operated by travel agencies or with your own
QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, yacht.
www.np-krka.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. September
Open 08:00 - 19:00; closed Sat, Sun. Jadrolinija
Boat lines to Kaprije, Prvić, Vodice, Zlarin and Žirje.QF‑4,
Šibenik Tourist Board Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 34 68/
QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75, (+385 -22) 20 06 24, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00
www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Open 07:00-15:00; closed - 15:00, 17:30 - 18:30. Sun Open 08:00 - 11:00, 18:00 -
Sun, Sat. 19:30. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board

QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 72, Get the In Your Pocket
www.dalmatiasibenik.hr. Open 07:30-15:30; closed
Sat, Sun. City Essentials app

56 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

Port of Šibenik, Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board Archives

Parking Public transport

Šibenik has both street parking and pay car parks. Street Šibenik’s municipal bus service is operated by Autotrans-
parking is split into four zones where parking is charged port Šibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00
1 June – 1 September at rates ranging between 3kn/hour to 22:00. Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3
and 10 kn/hour depending on the zone. You can also buy (which runs from the city centre uphill to Šubićevac, pass-
day tickets at 67 – 165 kn. ing the 16th-century fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the
There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga dis- Solaris hotel complex), and the no.5 (to Brodarica, jump-off
trict and at the railway station are in Zone A, while the car point for the island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these
park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices are 6 – 10kn/ buses is the stop right beside the main market (tržnica),
hour. where there is a kiosk (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.
Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might Closed Sun) selling tickets and a timetable detailing depar-
tures (watch out for reduced services on Sundays). Single
get towed away by the city authorities and impounded
tickets on most lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn
at the address Velimira Škorpika 5, at a place euphemisti- - 15kn.
cally named “Služba za premještanje vozila” – the “Service
for relocating vehicles.” How benign! They will kindly return Autotransport d.d.
your vehicle to you in return for your payment of the sum QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 64 44, www.atpsi.hr.
of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in the pound. The
pound is open on working days 08:00 – 20:00, Sat 08:00
– 14:00. Closed Sun. If you spot the car catchers in the act Taxi
of loading your iron steed onto a terrible vehicle known in
Croatian as the pauk, or “spider”, you might get away with The easiest way to get a cab is to call (+385-22) 21 21
a fine of just 200kn. More information on tel. 022 218 459, 21; otherwise you’ll find them at ranks outside the bus
091 120 08 23 or pauk@gradski-parking.hr. station or on the Poljana square just outside the Old
Town. The start-up fare is 40kn which includes the first
Gradski parking five kilometers, followed by 10kn per kilometre, 5kn per
QDraga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 05, www.gradski- baggage item. We recommend that you check before-
parking.hr. hand if waiting is included in the price for the first 5km.

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 57

Šibenik Basics
Customs hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
There are no custom limits between member states or tax urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h
return. For other non-member states we recommend you on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they
to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr. say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Disabled travellers Smoking

Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend-
least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping cen- ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
tres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re pre-
most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you pared to move inside.
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your
arrival as accessible as possible.
There are two public toilets in Šibenik. One is by the theatre,
it’s open all year round 07:00 – 21:00, costs 5kn, and is a
Electricity bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James’
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the Cathedral, it’s open only during the summer months, again
United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- 07:00 – 21:00, price 5kn.
cal appliances.
Money Croatian Visa Policies is fully compliant with European
There are plenty of exchange offices around Šibenik, as Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that ex-
well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four actly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to en-
hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit ter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter
cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit
of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.
in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit
amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as find- other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain
ing places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing
through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border
without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to
Roads enter Croatia.
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Šibenik signifi-
cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer-
gency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main
building for ER is located in General Hospital in Stjepana
Radića 83 (L- 3) where everything necessary will be done.
In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385)
Photo by Željko Krnčević, Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board Archives 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385)195.

58 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Žižula 50 km
Airport Ziziphus jujuba
Vepar Entrance
Šibenik i okolica Wild boar Zadar  ZAGREB NP Krka
50 km Samostan Majke od milosti Pršut
Stipanac Zec Airport Prosciutto
Sibenik area map Zadar
Skradin Mother of Mercy Convent
50 km
Jakobova kapica
Scallop Pectinidae
Katedrala Cathedral Tvrđava Fortress Muzej Museum Nalazište Jarebica A1
The rock partridge
Archeological site Hotel Accommodation Kamp Camp Plaža Beach Plava
zastava Blue Flag beach Šetnice Walk path Ronjenje Diving Jedrenje na dasci Prukljan Marina Entrance
Skradin NP Krka
Wind surfing Biciklistička staza Cycling track Bungee skokovi Bungee Jumping
Tematski park Etnoland
Crkva sv. Mihovil Raslina Etnoland Theme park
Vodeni park AquaPark Informacije Information Center Bus station Tržnica
St. Michael Church  DRNIŠ
Market Bolnica Hospital Benzinska postaja Gas station Pristanište Dock Flathead mullet
Marina Marina Vezovi Moorings Trgovački centar Shopping park
Rabbit Lozovac  SPLIT
Zec  BENKOVAC Crkva sv. Roko
Zaton St. Rocco Church Bilice  DRNIŠ 56
Rabbit Ovčji sir Airport
 DRNIŠ Sheep’s milk Split
27 cheese 50 km
Crkva Gospa Okitska Ovca
Our Lady of Okitska Church Sheep
Crkva uznesenja BDM
Crkva Gospa Srimska Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church
 SPLIT Crkva sv. Ivan
Crveno grožđe Our Lady of Srima Church Marina Zaton Crkva sv. Vida St. John Church
Red grapes St. Vid Church Airport
50 km
8 Pršut
Vodice Airport Prosciutto
Bunja domaćinova Airport
Zapadna magistrala Split
 BENKOVAC Bunja domaćinova Zadar
50 km Nacionalni
50 km
Tvrđava sv. Ivana Zec park
Bogdanovići  SPLIT Kornati
St. John Fortress Rabbit
Flathead mullet Konjički klub Kolan
Srima NJIVICE ŠUBIĆEVAC Riding club Kolan
Prižba Smokva Nacionalni Jarebica
Prizba Figs Tvrđava sv. Mihovila  SPLIT Tvrđava Barone
park The rock partridge
St. Michael Fortress Barone Fortress
Pidoča Kornati
Maslina Mediterranean mussel CR NICA Smokva
Olive tree K ra
Dubrava Figs
lja Crkva sv. Petar

Z vo
nim St. Peter Church
Martinska ira Nacionalni Crkva Gospa od zdravlja

a mag
Crveno grožđe Plaža Banj A1 Rider
S. Our Lady of Health Church

or a
Maslina Red grapes City Beach Ra Rider



Crkva sv. Jelena Olive tree Kornati a

St. Jelena Church Crkva sv. Danijel
BALDEKIN Sokolarski centar St. Daniel Church
Memorijalni centar Faust Vrančić Katedrala sv. Jakova
Jadrija St. James Cathedral Falconry Centre

Faust Vrancic Memorial

VIDICI Gradsko groblje Kvanj
Šepurine Crkva sv. Marija

Š ko
St. Mary Church City Cemetery Kvanj

. An te

Prvić Luka Ka na l sv RAŽINE Industrijska zona Podi  DRNIŠ
Kupalište Jadrija Danilo

Jadrija Beach Pu
tB Entrepreneurial Zone

Otok Prvić Srdela ioc

a Airport

Šetnica European pilchard 33 Bijelo grožđe Zadar Perković


Prvic Island Otok Lupac Tvrđava sv. Nikola Walk path White grapes

St. Nicholas Fortress


Lupac Island Marina 58

Soline male  SPLIT
Lake Soline Mandalina Crveno grožđe
Zubatac Male
Common dentex Red grapes
Soline velike Airport
Lake Soline Velike
Muzejska zbirka koralja Zablaće Smokva Split
Coral museum collection Figs Crkva sv. Lovre 50 km
Donje St. Lawrence Church Crkva sv. Ivan
20 nm polje St. John Church
Crkva Marijinog Uznesenja Maslina
Assumption of the Blessed AquaPark 8 Olive tree
Zlarin Virgin Mary Church Marina Solaris
Gospa od Rašelja Plaža Crveno grožđe 58
Our Lady of Raselj Rezalište Red grapes Crkva uznesenja BDM Boraja
Rezalište Starohrvatsko Assumption of the Blessed
Amadria Beach Brodarica groblje Kosa Virgin Mary Church
Otok Kaprije Otok Zlarin Early Croatian
Park Morinje DRNIŠ cemetery Kosa Nacionalni
Kaprije Island Zlarin Island 8
Crkva sv. Križ Jadrtovac Kornati
Holy Cross Church
Kaprije  SPLIT
Crkva sv. Margarita
Otok Kakan Crveni koralj Muzejska zbirka spužvi St. Margaret Church
Otok Zmajan Red coral Sponge museum collection Airport
Kakan Island Crkva sv. Petar Žaborić Split
St. Peter Church Zmajan Island Škrpina 50 km
Crkva sv. Ana
Muna Otok Krapanj St. Anna Church
Red scorpionfish
Krapanj Island
Crkva sv. Marija Žirje Explore with Bedem Šparadići

St. Mary Church

Gradina Fortress
Free entrance to local attractions + discounts on restaurants, Morska spužva Fortification wall
Otok Žirje Sponges Grebaštica  SPLIT
Zelena šljiva Krka National Park, tours and more Muflon
Green plum Žirje Island The mouflon

P Parkiralište Parking lot

Ljekarna Pharmacy
Info centar Information Center
Hotel/Hostel Accommodation
WC Toilets
Vidikovac View point

plan stare gradske jezgre
old city center map

4 1 Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral 13 Crkva sv. Grgura St. Gregory’s Church
2 Crkva sv. Ivana St. John’s Church 14 Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church
3 Crkva sv. Frane, samostan i muzej St. Franci’s Church and Monastery 15 Crkva Gospe vanka Grada “Gospe Vanka Grada” Church
4 Crkva sv. Krševana St. Grisogonu’s Church (Krševan) 16 Crkva sv. Nediljice St. Nediljica Church
5 Nova Crkva New Church 17 Gradska vijećnica The Town Hall
6 Crkva sv. Duha Church of the Holy Spirit 18 Palača Rossini Rossini Palace
7 Crkva sv. Nikole St. Nichola’s Church 19 Palača Foscolo Foscolo Palace
8 Crkva sv. Barbare St. Barbara’s Church 20 Palača Pellegrini Pellegrini Palace
9 Crkva sv. Križa Church of the Holy Cross 21 Palača Gogala Gogala Palace
10 Crkva Svi Sveti All Saint’s Church 22 Benediktanski samostan sv. Luce St. Luce Benedictine Monastery
11 Crkva Uspenie Bogomatere Ascension Church 23 Crkva sv. Spasa St Savior Church
12 Crkva sv. Dominika St. Dominic’s Church 24 Civitas Sacra - interpretacijski centar Interpretation center

15.1.1873. D/E-2 Dobrić E-3 Ive Zaninovića A/B-1 Miminac F-1/2 Prolaz kroz zidine A-2
17 buntovnika C-2 Dolac B-3 J. Barakovića F-3/4 Mulo Krke G-4 Prominska C-3
A. Zorčića C/D-3 Don Krste Stošića D/E-3 J. Mondelle A-2 Nikole Tesle F/G-1 Prvička D-4
Andrije Kačića C-2 Dragojevićeve stube D-3 J. Utješanovića D-3 Nikole Vladanova D-2/3 Put groblja C-2
Antuna Vrančića F-3 Eugena Kvaternika G-3 J. Petrovića D-2 Nove crkve E-2 Put Splita F-2
B. Fulgosi D-2 F. Dismanića D-3 Jurja Dalmatinca B/C-3 Obala F. Tuđmana E/F-4 Put Tanaje C-1
Biskupa Fosca F-3 F. Divinića D-3/4 Jurja Šišgorića F-3 Obala hr. mornarice G-4 Put tvrđavama D-1
Blajburskih žrtava G-1/2 Fausta Vrančića E-2 Kninska D-2 Ob.palih omladinaca B/D-4 Put Vuka Mandušića E-1
Bonnina iz Milana E-2 Fra Nikole Ružića E-3 Kralja Tomislava E/F-3 Obala prvoboraca A-2 Riječka F/G-2
Božidara Petranovića E-2/3 Fra S. Zlatovića G-3 Kralja Zvonimira C/G-3 Paške Zjačića E-1 Sarajevska G-3
Braće Polić D-1/2 Grgura Ninskog E-2 Kraljice Jelene F-2 Pekarska E-3 S. Čulinovića D-3
Bregovita B/C-1 H. Fortenezze E-3 Krste Stošića D/E-3 Perivoj Roberta Visianija G-3 Skoka D-2
Bukovačka C-3 I. Mrnavića C-3 M. Kolunića C/D-3 Petra Nakića F-3 Skradinska D-2
Buta Har. Bilinića B/C-3/4 Istarska C/D-1 Mali prolaz C-3 Pod tvrđavom C-3 Splitski put G-3
Crnica A-1 Ivana Pribislavića E-3 Mesarske stube E-3 Poljana F/G-2 Srimska A-2


Sport & Moda



Explore with lovesibenik

Free entrance to local attractions + discounts on restaurants,
Krka National Park, tours and more

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket Summer 2019 61

Authentic Italian and Croatian food.

MEAT FROM CROATIAN FARMS: fillet steak, rump steak, pork fillet and chicken.
FISH: tuna, salmon and calamari.


Podsolarsko 78
(next to Solaris Hotels Resort)
22 000 Šibenik, Croatia
info & reservation: tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94
62 Šibenik In Your Pocket sibenik.inyourpocket.com