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18 pieces given

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General Directions
11 13 14 The Pattern
SYMBOLS GRAIN LINE Place on straight grain of fabric parallel to selvage PLACE SOLID LINE on fold of fabric. CENTER FRONT OR BACK of garment. ADJUST IF NEEDED Make adjustments before placing pattern on fabric. TO LENGTHEN: Cut pattern between lengthen or shorten lines. Spread pattern evenly, the amount needed and tape to paper. TO SHORTEN: At lengthen or shorten lines, make an even pleat taking up amount needed. Tape in place. When lengthen or shorten lines are not given, make adjustments at lower edge of pattern.

Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING: PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing washables or steam-pressing nonwashables. CIRCLE your cutting layout. To Quick Mark: PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting Layouts. FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold fabric with RIGHT sides together. FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place fabric RIGHT side up. FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY DESIGN FABRICS: Use with nap layouts Snip edge of fabric to mark notches, ends of fold lines and center lines. Pin mark dots. AFTER CUTTING: Transfer markings to WRONG side of fabric before removing pattern. Use pin and chalk method or dressmakers tracing paper and wheel.

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NOTCHES DOTS CUTTING LINE

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A B

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LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINES SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm) unless otherwise stated is included but not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS. Mark your size with colored felt tip pen. See chart on tissue for how to use MULTISIZE PATTERNS.

Free Bonnet Instructions available online! www.simplicity.com

1-BODICE FRONT -A 2-BODICE BACK -A 3-BODICE SIDE BACK -A 4-SLEEVE -A 5-SLEEVE BINDING -A 6-SKIRT FRONT 7-SKIRT BACK OVERLAY-A / SKIRT BACK -B 8-SKIRT BACK -A / SKIRT BACK LINING -B 9-GUIDE FOR SKIRT PLACKET 10-SKIRT PLACKET -A 11-BUTTONHOLE GUIDE -A 12-BODICE FRONT -B 13-BODICE BACK -B 14-BODICE SIDE BACK -B 15-SLEEVE -B 16-SKIRT PLACKET -B 17-SASH CENTER -B 18-SASH END -B

SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES

CROSSWISE FOLD

Sewing
SEW garment following Sewing Directions. PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches. STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated. PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so seams will lie at. TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.

b.

If layout shows a piece extending past fold, cut out all pieces except piece that extends. Open out fabric to single thickness. Cut extending piece on RIGHT side of fabric in position shown.

selvages indicating direction of nap or design. Fold fabric crosswise with RIGHT sides together, and cut along fold (a). Turn one fabric layer around so arrows on both layers go in the same direction. Place RIGHT sides together (b).

Trim enclosed seams into layers

Trim corners

Clip inner curves

Notch outer curves

SELVAGES

Cutting Layouts

pattern printed side down pattern printed side up

See SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES

DRESS OVERLAY
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 6 7 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 6 8 10 12 SELVAGES 2

SELVAGE 1 SEL. 7 4 FOLD 6 3 FOLD SELVAGE 7 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 12 14 16 18 20 SELVAGES

POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE

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13 12 15 FOLD

USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6 8 10 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 6 8 10 12 CUT ONE OF PIECE 10 5 SELVAGES 3 2 8 10 4 FOLD 6 FOLD

44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 14 16 18 20 3 7 SELVAGE 1 SEL. 6

SINGLE THICKNESS

A COSTUME: DRESS

SELVAGES 2 1 FOLD

SELVAGE

SASH
USE PIECES 17 18 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES

SELVAGE SELVAGES SELVAGE

Mark small arrows along both

a.

SELVAGE

SELS. 17 18 FOLD

BODICE LINING
USE PIECES 1 2 3 44" 45" (115CM) WITHOUT NAP/ ALL SIZES

SELS. 2 1 FOLD 3

SELVAGE 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 14 16 18 20 3 8 6 SINGLE THICKNESS 10 4

B COSTUME: DRESS
USE PIECES 6 7 12 13 14 15 16 CUT ONE OF PIECE 16 44" 45" (115CM)/ WITH NAP SIZES 6 8 10 13 14 7 6 16 15 12 12 FOLD SELVAGES

SELVAGES 2 1 FOLD

SKIRT LINING
USE PIECES 6 8 44" 45" (115CM) WITHOUT NAP ALL SIZES SELVAGES

5 4 5 SELVAGE

8 FOLD

Copyright 2006Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.

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Sewing Directions
FABRIC KEY
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING

BODICE B
8 8. Stitch bodice side back to back, matching small dots. Stitch bodice front to back at shoulder and side seams. GATHER lower edge of bodice front between large dots. Pull up gathering stitches to measurement of skirt front pattern tissue between large dots. Fasten thread ends securely.

Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.

GATHER

GATHER- Stitch along seam line, using a long machine stitch and heavy thread in the bobbin. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) away in seam allowance.

NARROW HEM - Press under amount of hem allowance as indicated on tissue pattern. To form hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease; press. Slip-stitch or machine-stitch hem close to inner pressed edge.
NARROW HEM

9. Stitch seams of bodice facing and gather lower edge of front facing same as for bodice. Press under 5/8 (1.5cm) on lower edge of facing; trim to 1/4 (6mm). With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to bodice, matching centers, shoulder seams and large and small dots. Stitch back opening and neck edges together, leaving a 3/8 (1 cm) opening below small dot along back opening edges for drawstring, as shown. Trim seams and corners; clip curves.

COSTUME A, B
10 11 10. Turn facing to INSIDE; press. Baste armhole edge together. 1. Pin WRONG side of bodice front overlay to RIGHT side of bodice front, matching dots and having raw edges even. Baste raw edges together. baste overlay to corresponding bodice side back and back sections in same manner. Stitch bodice side back to back, matching small dots. Stitch bodice front to back at shoulder and side seams. GATHER lower edge of bodice front between large and small dots. Pull up gathering stitches to measurement of skirt front pattern tissue between large and small dots. Fasten thread ends securely. 2 2. Stitch seams of bodice lining and gather lower edge of front lining same as for bodice. Press under 5/8 (1.5cm) on lower edge of lining; trim to 1/4 (6mm). With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to bodice, matching centers, shoulder seams and large dots. Stitch back opening and neck edges together. Trim seams and corners; clip curves. 12

BODICE A
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11. GATHER top of sleeve between large dot and single notch. Stitch underarm seam of sleeve, matching large dots. NARROW HEM lower edge of sleeve.

12. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out. Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole toward you. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge, matching large and small dots placing side seam at double small dots, matching remaining small dots. Pull up gathering stitches to t. To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin threads. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/8"(3mm) from rst stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching. Press only the seam allowance.

3. Turn lining to INSIDE; press. Baste armhole edges together.

CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR EITHER VIEW

4 4. Baste overlay to sleeve same as you did for bodice. GATHER top of sleeve between outer small dots and lower edge between large dots. Pull up gathering stitches on lower edge to measurement of sleeve binding pattern tissue between large dots. fasten thread ends securely. Stitch underarm seam of sleeve. 6 5. With RIGHT sides together, stitch ends of sleeve binding. Fold binding in half, lengthwise, with WRONG sides together, matching large dots; press. 5 6. On OUTSIDE, pin binding to lower edge of sleeve, matching large dots and seams. Stitch in a 3/8" (1cm) seam. Press binding out, pressing seam toward binding. Turn pressed edge of binding to INSIDE. Slip-stitch pressed edge of binding over seam. 14 14. FOR SKIRT A -Stitch seams skirt same as for overlay. NARROW HEM lower edge. Pin RIGHT side of skirt to WRONG side of overlay, matching centers, side seams and large and small dots. Pull up gathering stitches to t on back overlay to t. Baste upper edges together. Baste along center back through all thicknesses for about 12 (30.5cm). Make Skirt Overlay A OR Skirt B as follows: 13 13. Stitch front to back at side seams. GATHER upper edge of back between large and small dots. NARROW HEM lower edge.

7. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out. Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole toward you. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge, matching underarm seams and small dots. Pull up gathering stitches to t. To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin threads. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/8"(3mm) from rst stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching. Press only the seam allowance.

Copyright 2006Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.

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WAISTLINE SEAM AND FINISHING A

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21. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt to bodice at waistline seam, matching centers, side seams and large and small dots, being careful not to catch bodice lining into stitching. Press seam toward bodice. Slip-stitch pressed edge of bodice lining over seam.

15. FOR SKIRT LINING B- Stitch seams of skirt lining same as for skirt. To make pleats in back, fold along solid line. Bring fold to broken line. Baste across raw edge. Press up lower hem. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Stitch close to inner pressed edge. Pin RIGHT side of lining to WRONG side of skirt, matching centers, side seams and large dots. Pull up gathering stitches to t on skirt back to t. Baste upper edges together. Baste along center back through all thicknesses for about 12 (30.5cm).

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22. To mark buttonholes in LEFT bodice back place guide along nished edge of garment, matching centers, as shown. Transfer buttonhole markings to garment. Make buttonholes at markings. Lap LEFT back over RIGHT, matching centers. Sew buttons under buttonholes.

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CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR EITHER VIEW

16 16. On OUTSIDE, pin guide for skirt placket to skirt back, matching centers and large dots. Transfer markings using your favorite method. To make opening on skirt back, stitch along stitching lines... pivot and take one small stitch across the point. Slash between stitching, being careful not to slash through the stitch at the point. Tip-To prevent fabric from fraying, treat the point with a liquid seam sealant, such as Fray Check. TEST on a scrap of fabric rst. 24 17 17. FOR VIEW A -With WRONG sides together, fold placket in half lengthwise. Baste.. 18 18. FOR VIEW B -Press under 1/4" (6mm) on unmarked edge of placket.

23. On OUTSIDE, stitch braid trim to neck edge of garment, turning under ends 3/4 (2cm) from back opening edges. Tie ribbon into a bow. Hand tack center of bow to front of garment, as shown on envelope.

WAISTLINE SEAM AND FINISHING B

24. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt to bodice at waistline seam, matching centers, side seams and large and small dots, being careful not to catch bodice facing into stitching. Press seam toward bodice. Slip-stitch pressed edge of bodice facing over seam.

19 19. Spread slashed edges of skirt apart so that they form a straight line. On OUTSIDE, baste placket to skirt, matching large and small dots, placing stitching on skirt along stitching line on placket. Stitch along stitching line. 25 25. To form casings for drawstrings, stitch 1/4 (6mm) from nished neck edge and waistline seam. Cut cord in half. Insert cord through back openings for casings having ends extend evenly. Draw up cords and fasten into bows at back opening edges when wearing garment.

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20. Press placket out, pressing seam toward placket. Turn placket to INSIDE; press. Slip-stitch pressed edge in place invisibly.

Stitch sash ends to sash center. NARROW HEM raw edges. Fasten sash around waistline seam, as shown on envelope.

Copyright 2006Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.