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TASTE OF GLOUCESTERSHIRE AWARDS

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WEEKEND

WEEKEND

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FOOD

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Food heroes
STEPHEN WHEELER, commercial manager at speciality food company Mise en Place, part of Cheltenham-based Creed Foodservice, sources the best ingredients for top chefs quality, local produce which puts him in touch with a wealth of food producers
FARMING, they say, is a way of life, and the Keene family can certainly claim to have farming in the blood. Paul Keene, of Primrose Vale in Bentham, can trace his farming roots back to 1709 when his ancestors were tenant farmers near Chepstow. Fast forward 300 years and the Keene brothers are still farming; Paul owns the 35-acre Primrose Vale Fruit Farm on Shurdington Road, while his brother Rob runs Over Farm and Shop near Gloucester, which was started by their grandparents as an arable farm. When Paul took over the then A&A in 1999, both brothers were keen to implement a number of ideas they had seen work successfully in America the business model of market gardening and selling direct to the public and caterers. The two now grow and market an amazing array of produce including root vegetables, brassicas, squashes, asparagus and soft fruit. At Primrose Vale, Pauls largest crop is outdoor strawberries. More than 20 tonnes are either sold as pick-your-own, in the thriving farm shop, or sold to local wholesalers such as Mise en Place, who in turn sell the fruit to the best pubs, hotels and restaurants in the Cotswolds. This year has been tricky a hot April meant a very early start to the season, but later crops have been delayed by cool conditions, so that at a time of high demand, there has been a real shortage. Paul said: Fortunately they are now coming back into production and looking good for the rest of the summer, said Paul. This time of year is not all about strawberries. We are busy picking raspberries, blackberries, currants and beans, with sweetcorn coming soon, as well as planting lots of our winter brassicas and other crops to see us through the colder months. Our greatest challenge is now extending the seasons, he added. People want to buy fresh asparagus or raspberries for more than just a few weeks. Local Food Heroes such as the Keene brothers have earned their success through adapting their route to market, and supplying consistently great fresh fruit and vegetables. And Primrose Vale is already working on its entry for the Taste of Gloucestershire Food and Farming Awards.

Send in your local food nominations

WHAT could be better than a drop of Cheltenham Spa Ale and a hot sandwich made with Old Spot pork? Or a glass of elderflower cordial from Bottle Green with a slice of Smarts Double Gloucester on a biscuit? Then imagine how much better it tastes knowing that everything you eat is locally-produced, harvested, baked, and made within a few miles of your kitchen. Gloucestershire is blessed with some wonderful food growers and producers. WEEKEND, along with The Citizen and Gloucestershire Echo, is celebrating the countys exceptional farmers and artisan makers with the inaugural Taste of Gloucestershire Food & Farming Awards. From world-famous cheeses to beautiful liqueurs produced from Cotswold fruit, the awards aim to raise awareness of what is grown and produced on our doorstep. Thirteen categories have been drawn up for the September ceremony including best dairy farmer, best pub food and best arable farmer. Any businesses associated with food can nominate themselves for the awards which will be judged by a specialist panel. Send your nominations to www.thisisgloucestershire.co.uk/ tasteofglos or by email to gill.brimfield@glosmedia.co.uk

Curries you wont wine want to hurry . . .

this weeks

with Sam Wylie-Harris

Barbecue reds

Forging vital links

HEN you eat out in Gloucestershire, the chances are whats on your plate could well have been supplied by Creed Foodservice.
The company specialises in high quality food and associated deliveries to more than 1,700 customers from local pubs, hotels, schools and care homes to high quality national restaurants, garden centres and leisure operators. As a business thats passionate about food miles and local sourcing, Creed is delighted to be involved as the headline sponsor with the Taste of Gloucestershire Awards. The Food Business of the Year, which Creed is also individually sponsoring, is clearly going to be a difficult one to judge, with many excellent establishments and chefs to consider. Says managing director Chris Creed: We applaud this new initiative from Gloucestershire Media. We have a strong food culture and heritage in Gloucestershire and it plays such an important role in our local economy. Creed is a significant Gloucestershire business with a turnover of 42 million. It employs 240 staff at its distribution centres in Staverton and Derbyshire. Creed estimates the food sector in Gloucestershire is worth 1 billion to the regional economy and is proud to play a critical role in developing that. Mise en Place, Creeds speciality and fresh food division, is also an active champion of local food producers. From fresh fruit and seasonal vegetables

OU cant eat curry in a hurry has always been an obscure motto of mine.

Managing director Chris Creed with his team

to local artisan cheeses and locally sourced high quality meat and smoked fish, Mise en Place works closely with Gloucestershire chefs to ensure menus reflect the best the county has to offer. The business provides a vital route to market for many food producers in the region such as Simon Weaver Organic Cheeses. Simon Weaver says: When Mise en Place came to us and suggested we work together to develop a bespoke range for their customers, we knew that it would benefit our business. Mise en Place deals with the best chefs across our region we need partnerships like this because we cant access the customers ourselves. Were a small team of five cheese-makers so it makes perfect sense. As one of the countrys leading independent foodservice wholesalers, Creed is recognised for its professionalism, competitiveness and values. These values include those learned over the years as a family owned business flexibility, pace and agility, which are so important. Creed considers itself far more than a distributor, adding value for customers by sourcing new and exciting products. Creed takes its responsibilities to the region, workplace and environment seriously. It supports LINC and Winstons Wish and has made significant investment to reduce the impact the business has on the environment, especially through its vehicle fleet. The business recently won the Foodservice Footprint Energy Efficiency Award against tough national competition.

Give us your recipes

WEEKEND, in conjunction with Foodworks cookery school in Colesbourne, is running a readers recipe competition to celebrate the Taste of Gloucestershire Awards. Your original recipes will be published in the magazine each week, and a shortlist of eight will be cooked by a team of top chefs at Foodworks. The winning recipe writer will be crowned at the awards in September. Send your recipes to weekend@glosmedia.co.uk

But I took my own odd adage to heart at The Noel Arms, where this dish is certainly something to linger over and every mouthful was savoured. In a stroke of genius, my friend Charmaine suggested we sampled each of the five varieties on the menu at the monthly Thursday Curry Club. Oh joy. We knew we were in for a masterclass as chef Indunil Upatissa has snaffled Curry Pub Chef of the Year at the Great British Pub Food Awards two years running. Everyone else seemed to be in the know as well, as a regular 95 people enjoy the Sri Lankan cooks gastronomic glories every time. Its so popular that fans book the same table month to month, we were told. We sat in the conservatory part of the restaurant and I felt slightly chilly. It was just as well, as some hot stuff was to follow. Five perfectly formed portions, each just enough of a taster for two, arrived with delightfully light domes of rice and more-ish buttered naan bread, pleasing poppadums and perky-as-you-like pickle. We began with Kerala style lamb curry, with tomato, garlic, cinnamon, cumin seed, coriander and poppy seed. It was a revelation. Subtly sweet, you could pick up every individual ingredient but also appreciate the overall effect. The tender lamb had an outstanding rich, deep flavour. Chicken dopiaza was next. This was a blend of button onions, bay leaves, red chilli, tomato, cumin and ginger. Its blow-your-head-off curry, exclaimed Charmaine, but the hotter the better I thought. This was earthy, robust and packed a wonderful fiery streak. We came back down from high altitude to milder climes with yellow seafood curry, which had turmeric powder, curry leaves, green chilli, coconut milk and fried onions. The Ceylon-style dish was packed with generous meaty monkfish pieces, king prawn and baby squid and was innocently lovely. Indunil himself arrived at this stage so we could take even more time anticipating the last two dishes. He relishes experimenting and revealed: Every month I create two new curries and I cook every one from scratch. Indunil has cooked in kitchens across the world, including the Maldives and Dubai, and brings all these influences to bear in his multi-cultural curries.

General manager Justin Pinchbeck with the award-winning Sri Lankan black lamb curry

But the meat was gloriously tender and it wasnt over-hot, unless you bit on a chilli Location: The Noel Arms, Chipping Campden flake. Food: Curry Club, on the last Thursday of We finished with perhaps one of our every month a choice of authentic curries favourites, cashew nut and green pea curry, from the Far East plus a general menu of with curry powder, curry leaves, pendang modern British food leaves, turmeric, coconut milk, cloves and Drink: Well-stocked bar cardamom. Atmosphere: Lively, up-beat, bustling but with a chance to chill Who would have thought a humble pea could Service: Full of smiles, attentive and pack such a punch? Unlike any peas wed knowledgeable tasted, they were creamy, tangy and simply Price: Curry and a pint of beer or a glass of addictive with the crunchy nuts. house wine for 12.95 The meal ended with a refreshing mango and pistachio coulfi. I thought I concocted a killer curry but I was We then went for the Malaysian-style beef obviously labouring under a delusion. rendang, with lime leaves, coconut, lemon grass, lime juice, dried chilli flakes. If we had to Having tasted these sublime works by such a natural talent I realised I couldnt shake a find the minutest of faults, this was a little cardamom pod at our chef. salty, Charmaine sheepishly pointed out.

THE NOEL ARMS

THE great British summer and the thrill of the grill comes into its own when the smoky, barbecue flavours from a gastro feast are paired with a lip-smacking red. For casual cookouts or gourmet get-togethers, here are some pukka wines to bring new life and colour to the party. For a ruby red thats light, fresh and fruity, try Vidal Fleury GSM 2008 (8.34, www.yourfavouritewines.com). The bold, graphic label spells out the grape blend of grenache, shiraz and mouvedre, but you might prefer to think of GSM as standing for great with seafood or meat. From one of the Rhones oldest wineries, its a soft, easy-drinker with bright cherry fruit that would work just as well with grilled shrimps or salmon. Another crowd pleaser thats ideal with hamburgers, chorizo sausages and lamb kebabs, is Lindemans Bin 45 Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (8.49, major supermarkets). A crimson cab sav, its masculine and well structured with dark berry and wood flavours, a smack of cassis, a firm backbone of tannins and a blackcurrant finish. Sticky sauces and a spicy marinade cry out for something more bullish such as an Australian shiraz. Try Waitrose Reserve Shiraz, St Hallett 2009, Barossa Valley (9.99). Bold and rich, this black-red beauty made from 100 per cent shiraz is ripe with blackberry flavours, a dusting of dark chocolate, hint of spice and an oaky element on the finish. Chile produces some star buys and The Patriots Gran Reserva 2008, Maipu Valley 2008 (9.99, www.laithwaites.co.uk) is a wine your friends will love. Rich, full and enticing, this cabernet sauvignon is packed with a forest floor of black fruit, peppery undertones and good structure a real foodies vino thats tuned to a slow grill, and great company. Another South American treasure, this handsome bottle is labelled with a gold star. Try Clos de Los Siete 2008, Mendoza (12.99, Majestic). Dense and full-flavoured, this inky black Argentinian is the perfect partner with a flame-grilled steak. Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Mendoza (9.50, www.corksout.com) is full of intense, brambly fruit flavours to remind you of summer orchards, with mocha and cigar notes adding elegance. For an absolute corker, try Tapanappa, Foggy Hill Pinot Noir 2009 (30, www.leaandsandeman.co.uk), Adelaide Hills, S Australia. The colour of morello cherries, save this beauty for lightly seasoned dishes, rather than hickory-flavoured platters.

Fresh and fruity alfresco treats