ISLANDS OF FIJI First things first: There is no island of Fiji.

Instead, Fiji is an island nation of about 300 islands, from small remote islets that seem caught in an old South Pacific time warp to some of the modern world's most exclusive private resort islands. Fiji has a complex geologic history. Based on a submerged platform of ancient formation, the Fiji islands are largely the product of volcanic action, sedimentary deposit, and formations of coral. Viti Levu, the largest island, has an area of about 4,000 square miles and accounts for more than half of Fiji's land. A jagged dividing range running from north to south has several peaks above 3,000 feet (914 metres), the highest being Mount Tomanivi (formerly Mount Victoria) at 4,341 feet. The main river systems - the Rewa, Navua, Sigatoka, and Ba - all have their headwaters in the central mountain area. To the southeast and southwest, and to the south where the range divides, the mountains give way to plateaus, then lowlands. The coastal plains in the west, northwest, and southeast account for only 15 percent of Viti Levu's area but are the main centres of agriculture and settlement. Vanua Levu, the second largest island, has an area of about 2,140 square miles. It is divided along its length by a mountain range with peaks rising to more than 3,000 feet. On the island's northern coast, away from the mouth of the Dreketi River, the coastal plains are narrow. Most of the other islands, including the Lomaiviti, Lau, and Yasawa groups, are volcanic in origin, but, like the major islands, they are bounded by coral reefs, offshore rocks, and shoals that make the Koro Sea hazardous for navigation. Almost half of Fiji's total area remains in forest, while dry grasslands are found in western areas of the large islands. Coconut palms are common in coastal areas, and almost all tropical fruits and vegetables can be grown. Much of the shoreline is composed of reefs and rocks, while mangrove swamps are found on eastern coasts. There are few white-sand swimming beaches and, because of the encircling reef, little surf. So, where to go? Actually, the real question is how do you want to spend your time? Divers can pick and choose from some of the best diving locations in the South Seas (the best known is Taveuni), while surfers have long favored several world-class reef breaks off Tavarua island in the Mamanuca chain just west of Fijis largest island, Viti Levu. Some of Fijis finest beaches line the Coral Coast on Viti Levus western coast, but true romantics (and movie buffs) may prefer the Blue Lagoon bays of Yasawa Islands to the northwest. (Yes, Brooke Shields romped here.) Those drawn by the traditional cultures of Oceania may simply be content to explore Vanua Levu, the chains second-largest (and largely undeveloped) island, and historically preserved Levuka, the former 19th-century capital on the lush neighboring isle of Ovalau. And if youve ever heard Isa Lei, the hauntingly beautiful farewell song that Fijians sing to visitors leaving an island, you know that the melody, and the islands, tend to stay with you. Mamanucas

You might say there are two types of visitors who come to the Mamanucas Islands of Fiji: Hardcore surfers and anyone else looking for a small, private island paradise. The surfers have been making the journey to these stunning coral islands since the mid-1980s, since word first started to get around about an extraordinary surf spot called Cloudbreak off Tavarua Island. Meanwhile, the trend toward exclusive private island resorts blossomed throughout Fiji, especially in the Mamanucas, close to Fijis international airport in Nadi on the island of Viti Levu.

Tavarua remains a surfers playground, but if youre looking for white-sand beaches, and the pleasures of warm water and sun (these islands have the best weather in Fiji), you have your pick among a dozen resorts (and a few backpacker retreats) on some sister isles: Beachcomber Island, Malolo Levu, Malolo Lailai, Mana, Matamanoa, Naviti, Qalito Island, Treasure Island, Tokoriki, and Vomo. The islands themselves range from flat atolls to others that remind worldly visitors of the some green, hilly West Indiesfrom a long time ago. Viti Levu

Of the 400 or so islands that make up the nation of Fiji, Viti Levu is the largest and a cultural crossroads of the South Pacific. But even with its international airport in Nadi (pronounced NAN-dee), Viti Levu is sometimes overlooked by visitors eager to hop off to one of Fijis enchanting outlying isles. Viti Levu is not so much a beach getaway (the best beaches and diving are along the Coral Coast on the west side of the island), as a place rich with the possibilities that come with tropical mountains, rivers, waterfalls, and traditional Fijian villages. Hiking, rafting (including trips on bamboo rafts), meke (story-telling dances) and kava ceremonies are all on the daily menu. And it's even possible to enjoy a taste of city life in the capital of Suva. The Fiji Museum is worth a visit (you can even arrange a ride on a traditional drua, a double-hulled canoe), but the real treat is the municipal market, where you stroll amid a sea of fruits, vegetables, and seafoods and shop for both Indian spices and kava roots. Vanua Levu

In a world where even small remote islands have become popular tourist destinations, its increasingly rare to find a sizable South Pacific isle that has remained largely undeveloped. And therein lies the basic charm of Vanua Levu, the second largest among Fijis 300 or so islands. Just over 100 miles long Vanua Levu (pronounced vah-NEW-ah LAY-vu) is a good base for adventurous souls who prefer rainforest hikes, bird-watching, and snorkeling to, say, golf, tennis, and spas. The interior of the island is rugged, and green fields of sugar cane cover the north and west coasts like a scene from long ago Hawaii. Gaze across the gloriously blue waters of vast Savusavu Bay (fine windsurfing, by the way), and you may find it hard to understand why there arent more visitors. Yachties long ago discovered the bay surrounded by steep hills, and although some new small-butluxurious resorts have sprung up in recent years, Vanua Levu is still off the beaten track. The small (population 2,800) waterfront town at Savusavu is best described as rustic, the yacht club is the favorite local hangout, and the classic local market (fruits, fish, veggies, woven baskets and mats) is always worth a stop on Saturdays.