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Clark County Public Healths Mission Our mission is your good health. Together we: Prevent disease and injury Promote healthier choices Protect food, water, and air Prepare for emergencies. Were always working for a safer and healthier community.
For more information about the Garden Toolkit contact: Clark County Public Health P.O. Box 9825 Vancouver, WA 98666-8825 Phone: (360) 397-8000 x7218 Email: Public.Health@clark.wa.gov Website: www.communitygrown.org
This gardening toolkit was written by Tricia Pace, RD, IBCLC, Clark County Public Health with funding from Washington State
Contents
Preface About This Toolkit Introduction: Why Garden? Why Home Garden? Why Square Foot Garden?
Part One:
How to Create a Food Garden Project: Step 1: The People; Partners, Participants, and Mentors Step 2: The Places: Where to Site Garden Projects Step 3: The Products: Materials, Beds, and Plants Step 4: The Process: Timelines, Guidelines, and Templates Step 5: The Party: Celebrating the Harvest Step 6: Project Evaluation A Garden Primer
Part Two:
Part Three: Resources: Local Gardening Education and Information Resources General Gardening Education and Information sites Book List Potential Funding Opportunities Appendix: Coalition Building 10 Steps to Starting a Community Garden Coordinator Outline Participant Letter of Invitation Participant Covenant/Landlord Agreement Participant Pre/post Survey Plant Request Forms Mentor Letter of Invitation Mentor Agreement Invitation to Harvest Celebration Certificates of Participation, Appreciation, and /or Recognition
Attachments:
References: Acknowledgements:
Preface
Welcome to the Clark County Food Gardening Toolkit; a guide to growing successful small scale food gardening projects. This guide is a result of our experiences in supporting families with limited resources enjoy more fresh produce through home gardening. The bountiful gardens of delicious, nutritious fruits and vegetables exceeded all of our expectations. But what also grew were individual self-esteem and resourcefulness, family bonding, and stronger communities. The initial ten family pilot has evolved into Vancouver-Clark Community Grown with hundreds of residents benefiting from the practical and wonderful events that occur when people connect with nature and with each other. Growing food gardens begins to address two of the most significant public health issues affecting us today: chronic disease and environmental degradation. Increased physical activity and eating more fruits and vegetables are key to healthier, happier citizens. Growing ones own food reduces trips to the store to buy commercially grown, transported, packaged and stored food that uses so much energy and causes a lot of pollution. Tending the land as organic food gardens improves and protects our personal and environmental health. We hope that this guide inspires and supports the creation of many food gardening projects and programs across Clark County and beyond.
Why Gardening?
Food costs are high, food safety is questionable, and food security is an issue for many residents. Most of us would like to eat better and get more exercise. Gardening is a fun, creative, economic way to address some of these problems and more. The National Gardening association estimates that a well-maintained garden may yield an average of $500 of food per year. Food grown in a local garden is more likely to be fresher, more nutritious, and with less risk of contamination. Gardening increases outdoor physical activity associated with the prevention of multiple chronic diseases like heart disease, obesity, adult-onset diabetes, and high blood pressure. Research shows that gardeners are often happier, healthier people who are better able to handle the ups and downs of life. Gardening creates a connection of people with the natural world which increases our respect for our environment and reminds us how our actions really do make a difference.
The Waltons had great production from their 4 x 8 square foot garden.
Clark County Public Health formed a coalition with partners from a local high school horticulture program, a faith-based organization, and a master gardener program. Between us, we found funding and leadership, built, installed and filled raised beds, and bought vegetable starts, seeds, and basic gardening supplies. We connected participants with experienced gardeners who supported and educated them through the summer and we collected input and documented the progress all along. We celebrated with a fabulous harvest potluck taking time to recognize and honor everyone involved. We evaluated surveys and our findings were written up, presented, and published.
Our Story:
The Participants: The participants are the folks for whom you are creating the gardens. They will become the new gardeners who will tend and harvest their own raised beds. Be sure that your participants understand that the success of their garden depends on their efforts and consistent attention. Some of them may have gardening experience while others may never have turned a spade. Experience doesnt matter but commitment does. Participants will depend on the target audience for your projects. They may include: Singles Families Children, teens or adults Persons with disabilities Students Employees People with limited resources Immigrants People who are homeless People in recovery programs People who want to improve their health
Outreach to participants can be challenging depending on how your project is designed. Apartment-based projects serving tenants simplifies outreach by only talking to those residents. Recruiting participants from more varied or mobile groups takes planning, collaboration, and persistence. If your project will be reaching out to people with low incomes, working with Head Start, WIC, or schools with a high percentage of free and reduced lunch may be effective. When engaging specific groups, ask people from those groups to be on your coalition to ensure respectful, successful outreach efforts. Inviting potential participants to information meetings lets them to learn about the project and ask questions. Participants need to have a clear understanding of what signing up means so theyll know whats involved and how committed they are. Showing examples of the garden beds or posters of similar projects makes a project more real. If possible, ask previous participants to talk about their experiences. Serving fresh produce gives a taste of the possibilities. Salad greens, bread with herbed butter, and water flavored with cucumbers and mint is an easy, healthy menu. Sending letters of invitation and participant covenants enhances outreach and tracks interest. The participant covenant is a promise to tend the garden all season and reminds them that their gardens success depends on their efforts. Templates for letters and covenants are in the Attachments.
The Mentors: A mentor is a trusted friend, counselor or teacher, usually a more experienced person, who often has a powerful influence on the recipients success. Mentors will educate and support participants from planting through harvesting and share ideas for using the produce. They will teach about composting, staking tomatoes, and protecting plants from critters and bad weather. Often mentors learn right along with participants. Match mentors with your gardeners early to give more time for getting to know each other and more effective teaching. Be mindful to match mentors with gardeners who live in the same areas when possible. Training mentors goes beyond assuring that they know enough about gardening. The group served will dictate what kinds of skills and qualities mentors need to have. Participants may have unique situations mentors need to understand so both will be comfortable. There may be language barriers, significant cultural differences, differing work ethics and/or different mores around home maintenance. For a mentor/mentoree relationship to succeed, personal and lifestyle differences cannot interfere.
Recruiting enough qualified, dedicated mentors can be difficult. Mentors need not be master gardeners but must know about home-scale vegetable gardening. Training participants to become peer mentors is a way to avoid this potential problem in the future. Peer mentors have the advantage of being recently mentored themselves so they can readily pass on what did and did not work for them. Recruit mentors via letters, phone calls, and posting notices in local gardening publications and on the internet. Possible places to find mentors may be: WSUs Master Gardener program Clark Countys Naturally Beautiful Backyards program Local Garden Clubs Center for Agriculture and Science Environmental Education (CASEE) Center Community Gardens Horticulture Programs Gardening friends and family Volunteer services request
The Volunteers: Few projects succeed without dedicated, passionate, reliable volunteers. A volunteer is someone who willingly works for others or the enviroment because they choose to do so without being motivated by money or gifts. For many, the emotional benefits of giving of themselves are satisfying, fulfilling, and sometimes healing. For a rewarding volunteer experience, be sure that your project is well organized and that volunteers are given specific, meaningful and timely tasks. Volunteers can help in many ways including: Outreach assistance (phone calls, presentations, letter writing) Labor (building and installing the beds, mixing soil) Running errands (picking up and delivering materials, lunch, etc.) Providing child care during meetings Administrative support (distributing & retrieving surveys, tallying data, etc.)
The Coordinator: The coordinator is the one who pulls all the people, places, and things together into a common action or effort. This is a big role with many responsibilities. This position may be shared with a clear division of tasks to keep it manageable. The coordinator(s) need not be an expert gardener but must understand all phases of your project and be able to get along well with everyone involved. Respectis earned by being well organized, assuring timely delivery of materials and supplies, and treating others time, talents, and skills respectfully. A general coordinator outline is found in the appendix.
Once you decide on your participant group, the next step is to find a convenient location, preferably within wagon-dragging distance for everyone. Its hard to beat the convenience of The gardens at Aurora Place ones own yard but the size and mission of your project may mean creating a community garden rather than individual home gardens. After youve found your spot, youll need to figure out where on that place to put the beds. This, and lots of other basic gardening information, is found in Part 3: A Garden Primer.
Make grids that divide the beds into one foot squares. Our grids were made of 1 inch lath which is cheap and available in bundles of 50 from most lumber yards. Grids can also be made of sticks, bamboo, or even string strung from nails in the tops of the sides. If the garden is not divided like this, then it is NOT a square foot garden (SFG). We found the SFG method to be easy and very productive for our participants.
We partnered with Friends of the Carpenter (FOC), a local faith-based organization who uses wood working as a means of outreach. For a set fee, FOC provided wood, hardware, and labor for building and installing our beds. This was a win/win partnership which made our first project possible and provided income for a worthy organization. Donations of wood, hardware, and volunteer labor could lower project costs.
Materials for the Planting Mixture: After the first year using a commercial garden soil mix, we decided to follow the planting mix recipe in Mels book, All New Square Foot Gardening. His premise is to not waste time, money, and effort on making poor soil good, but instead start from the beginning with a great planting mix. The recipe for Mels Mix is equal parts peat moss, vermiculite, and a blend of five different kinds of compost. Peat moss aerates and lightens the mixture. Vermiculites role is to hold moisture but proper watering will assure your plants get enough. We used half the recommended amount to reduce costs. The most important component is the blend of composts. Using a blend provides a better mix of nutrients so you wont need to add fertilizer. For big projects, mixing a yard of commercial compost in with bags of specific composts like mushroom, forest floor, and chicken or steer manure, makes a less expensive, well-rounded blend. Compost from kitchen waste is all the future amendment home gardens will need. See more about composting in the Garden Primer. We followed the instructions for making Mels Mix on site. Premixing large batches off site, then bagging it to be delivered to the gardens may cut time and decrease mess.
The Plants: Most of our plants came from Lewis & Clark High Schools horticulture program. Be sure to order early so plants have time to grow. Then, schedule installations so that starts are ready to be planted when they need to come out of the greenhouse. Plants from a greenhouse will need time to adapt to the outdoors through a process called hardening off. Read more about hardening off in the Garden Primer. Thriving plant starts in Lewis & Clarks greenhouse We bought seeds and miscellaneous plants from local garden centers. Buy seeds on sale when possible, usually in late winter or early spring. Many seeds are good for several seasons so try old seeds as well. Choose disease-resistant plant varieties known to grow well in your area. Check the packet or tag for all kinds of information on plant needs.
Combination of plants from Lewis & Clark and a local garden center.
A Garden Primer
This primer was written to give you basic gardening information but the knowledge and wisdom of experienced gardeners is invaluable. We strongly encourage you to seek the advice of many fine gardening experts in your communities and of those listed in the resources section.
with city or county authorities for billing. Teach community gardeners about any security or safety systems so they can get water when they need it. Put home gardens near a faucet if possible and keep hoses, watering cans, or buckets nearby. Be careful when dragging hoses around since they can easily damage plants. More about watering plants is covered in the how to section. Safety Gardens should be in well marked areas safely away from busy streets. They should also be a good distance away from industrial areas or factories that may contaminate nearby water, air, or soil. Planting a community garden adds significantly to the beauty, pride, and safety of neighborhoods.
What to Plant
Hardiness Zones/Heat Zones Gardeners should plant what they want to eat but it doesnt always work out that way. Climate and elevation play a key role in determining which plants will grow where. To decrease frustration and waste by trial and error, plant hardiness zones, or climate zones, were set up by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) as a guide to help determine which plants grow best in what climates. Hardiness zones show the lowest average temperature it will get in each zone every year with Zone 1 being the coldest and Zone 11 being the warmest. Southwest Washington is mostly in Climate Zone 8. The criteria for these zones will vary even within a few miles due to natural conditions such as altitude, wind, humidity, and heat. There is also a heat zone map based on the average number of days the temperature is 86 degrees or more. Eighty-six degrees is the temperature at which plants begin suffering damage to their branches and leaves. Southwest Washington is in Heat Zone 4, having 14-30 days hotter than 86 degrees. Heat Zone, like Hardiness Zone also is affected by other conditions but the biggest problem with heat is water supply. Warm weather crops can take more direct heat and usually arent damaged until temperatures reach 95 degrees but ALL plants need lots of water in severe heat. Always keep a check on the water needs of your plants, especially those in raised beds and containers. Knowing the hardiness and heat zones helps gardeners choose plants and seeds that do well in their areas. This information is often included on seed packs or with planting instructions. Experience over time will help gardeners learn what will thrive in their gardens. Selecting Seeds Buy quality, disease-resistant seeds from a reliable dealer and shop early for best selection and sales. Seed packets offer important planting information and often a drawing or photo of mature plants which is very helpful to new gardeners. Sharing seeds with others is a fun, educational, and free way to increase your gardening knowledge and bounty.
New seeds may have better germination rates, but seeds that were saved and stored properly will be good for several years. Never save seed from hybrid plants because over time they will produce inferior plants. Examples of some hybrid plants are eggplant, bell peppers, broccoli, and most corn. Below is a table of typical storage lives assuming seeds are kept cool, dark, and dry.
Selecting Plants Vegetable plants, also known as starts, are often the only chance for long-season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and broccoli. Buy plant starts sales hosted by horticulture programs, nurseries, or garden centers of variety stores. Choose plants that are strong, straight, and deep green without yellowing or insect damage. Plants bought from outside stands will be ready to go in the ground but those from a green house or windowsill will need time to slowly adjust to the outside. Abrupt temperature changes can shock, stunt, or even kill tender plants. Helping plants adjust to the outside is called hardening off and is further explained in the planting section. Think about the mature size of the plants youre choosing for your garden beds. In large, inground plots space isnt too much of a problem, but smaller raised beds can quickly become jungles. Two zucchinis will overtake a small bed. Seed packets and most plant starts will have information on mature size and whether or not plants will need to be supported with stakes, cages, or trellises.
When to Plant
Starting early increases production and variety of a garden. In our area, many cool season crops can be planted in early spring when the soil temperature is around 50 degrees. Warm season crops wont do well until the ground is above 60 degrees. Seed packets, plant labels and experienced gardeners can give guidance on planting times. Planting early, mid-season, and late crops is called succession planting. Well timed succession plantings provide a steady supply of produce from spring through fall and helps lessen bumper crop madness.
How to Plant
There are several ways to plant a garden; the method chosen depends on the layout. For large, in-ground plots, single-row furrows or wide row plantings are most typical. Seed packets or planting guides will tell you how far apart to plant. Some gardens may include hill plantings where vining plants like squash and cucumbers are planted in small hills to allow the roots to spread out and the vine to grow freely. The hills are planted with 4-6 seeds. Once growing, thin the starts to no more than three plants. Our projects used raised beds which were filled with a special soil mix and overlaid with a grid that divided them into one foot squares. The squares were then planted with one, four, nine, or sixteen seeds or plants depending on how big the plant would be when mature. All the information needed for this type of planting is found in The All New Square Foot Gardening book by Mel Bartholomew. See the resources section for information on Mels book. The depth seeds are planted depends on their size. Small seeds should be lightly covered with of soil. Larger seeds should be planted the depth that is about of the seeds width. Seed packets and planting tags will provide information on planting. All seeds should be kept moist during their germination period. Seeds are ready to plant when soil reaches the right temperature: 50 degrees for cool season plants and 60 degrees or more for warm season plants. Dig a small hole, put in one or two seeds, cover lightly with soil and water well. While most instructions tell you to over plant, then thin, why not plant only what you need in the first place? This will save time, work, and seeds. No need to plant something only to pull it up two weeks later. Starts bought from outdoor stands are ready to go in the ground. Those bought from greenhouses or started indoors need to be hardened off before planting by gradually exposing them to the outside. Begin to harden off your plants about a week before their transplant date which is found on the seed packet or with planting instructions. Set plants out in a protected, shady spot during the day and bring them in at night and if the weather turns cold, windy, or rainy. Leave them out a bit longer each day so that by the end of the week, theyll be tough enough to bask in the sunshine all day. Transplant seedlings into the garden on an overcast, even misty day if possible, to ease the shock of moving from the pot to ground. Consider companion planting which is based on the idea that certain plants do better in the company of certain other plants. One plant may benefit another by enriching the soil with nutrients or by improving conditions above ground like the shade produced by a tall, sun-loving plant for a low-growing cooler plant. A companion planting chart is found below:
ng? Some plants do better when in the company of other plants. Companion planting is using this knowledge to increase plant performance both as insect control and to take advantage of the sym biotic relationships between plants. plant varieties and cropping practices.
Table 1. COMPANION PLANTING CHART FOR HOME & MARKET GARDENING (compiled from traditional literature on companion planting) CROP Asparagus Beans Beans, Bush Beans, Pole Cabbage Family Carrots Celery Corn Cucumber Eggplant Lettuce Onion Family Parsley Pea, English Potato, Irish Pumpkins Radish Spinach Squash Tomato Turnip COMPANIONS Tomato, Parsley, Basil Most Vegetables & Herbs Irish Potato, Cucumber, Corn, Strawberry, Celery, Summer Savory Corn, Summer Savory, Radish Aromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family, Chamomile, Spinach, Chard Onion Onion, Beets, Kohlrabi, Sunflower Dill, Strawberries, Pole Beans, Tomato INCOMPATIBLE
English Pea, Lettuce, Rosemary, Onion Family, Dill Sage, Tomato Onion & Cabbage Families, Tomato, Bush Beans, Nasturtium Irish Potato, Beans, English Pea, Pumpkin, Cucumber, Squash Beans, Corn, English Pea, Sunflowers, Radish Beans, Marigold Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber Beets, Carrot, Lettuce, Cabbage Family, Summer Savory Tomato, Asparagus Carrots, Radish, Turnip, Cucumber, Corn, Beans Beans, Corn, Cabbage Family, Marigolds, Horseradish Corn, Marigold English Pea, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Cucumber Strawberry, Favba Bean Nasturtium, Corn, Marigold Onion Family, Nasturtium, Marigold, Asparagus, Carrot, Parsley, Cucumber English Pea Irish Potato Irish Potato, Fennel, Cabbage Family Irish Potato Onion Family, Gladiolus, Irish Potato Pumpkin, Squash, Tomato, Cucumber, Sunflower Irish Potato Hyssop Beans, English Peas Tomato Irish Potato, Aromatic Herbs
Watering There is an art to watering well: not enough and plants will stunt, shrivel, and die. Too much and theyll rot or die from lack of oxygen. Plants like sun-warmed so keep a bucket full nearby and refill it after each watering to be ready next time. Warm water gets a little deeper into the soil so more quickly increases the soil temperature and helps plants absorb nutrients faster in spring and late fall. Water the roots only by lifting the leaves and slowly pouring water directly into the ground. This way water goes where it is most needed and reduces the risks of fungal infections in plants. Overhead watering drenches some plants with too much water while others dont get enough. Also, the gardener is too far away to closely check out the plants for any problems. Besides, hoses will hurt plants if they are dragged over them. If you must use a hose, have a shut off valve for the end and an extension hand wand with a spray nozzle. This helps direct the water under the leaves to the roots, thus keeping most of the plant dry. Keep the hose coiled in the sun but be careful that the water is not too hot for use. Drip systems can be very efficient when they deliver water when and where it is needed but they may also be expensive. Seeds and seedlings need consistent moisture until well-established. Spring rains will take care of some days but gardeners need to keep watch for signs of under- or over-watering. Over-watering is the more common problem. Too much water causes stems to wilt, leaves to turn yellow, and mold to grow. Over-watered plants may appear to need water because their stems wilt and their leaves may turn yellow and fall off. Check the soil! If its wet, dont water again until it has dried out a bit. Once growing well, water needs will vary depending on size, season, weather, and growth demands of individual plants. New gardeners will gain confidence about wateringand everything else--with experience.
Wind and hail can also cause a lot of damage to your garden. When possible, put you garden beds in the most protected site that still receives plenty of sun. Solid walls are the best protection against strong winds. Temporary barriers made of hay bales can provide some wind protection and simple but sturdy tent structures can be effective against winds and hail. Animals can be another cause of damage to your garden. Deer, rabbits and squirrels are notorious for devouring young starts from above while moles and voles can feast and destroy from below. Dogs can accidentally trample the garden while cats may find it an exceptional litter box. Fencing from above and below can be very effective against all these creatures while still allowing for sun, water, and attention to reach your plants. Check with other experienced gardeners and in the resources section for more ideas and information on protecting your garden.
Harvesting
Now comes the happiest part of gardening: harvesting your beautiful, delicious, nutritious produce. The key to harvesting is timing. If picked too soon, vegetables can be tough or soft, and lacking in taste and nutrients. If picked too late, again they may be tough and fibrous or too soft and mushy with an off or bland taste. Weather is the determining factor affecting plant maturity. Many sunny days can ripen some plants early while cooler, rainy weather may delay or prevent ripening at all (think green tomatoes) Information about typical days to maturity is generally listed on seed packets. Harvest tables, like the one on the next page, are also a helpful guideline. Taste, texture, and experience will guide you in harvesting the perfect prize.
Vegetable Artichoke, Globe Asparagus Beans, Lima Beans, Pole Green Beans, Snap Bush Beets Broccoli
Part Eaten Immature bloom Stem Seed Pod and seed Pod and seed Root and leaves Immature bloom
Too Late Buds large with scales or bracts loose Excess woody fiber in stem Pods turned yellow; ok for dried beans Seed large; pods fibrous; ok for dried beans Pods fibrous; seed large Roots pithy; strong taste
Insufficient length , 6" to 8" long; no 1* fiber Insufficient bean size Bright green pod; seed good size
Insufficient size, 1* Bean cavity full; seed grown Insufficient size , 1* Insufficient size , 1* Insufficient size , 1* Pods turgid; seeds just visible Roots 2" to 3" in diameter
Bright green color; Head loose; some blooms bloom still tightly beginning to show closed Head loose; color change to green yellow Leaf loose; heads cracked open Background color of melon is yellow; rind soft Strong taste; oversweet Curds open; separate Seed stalk formed; bitterness
Insufficient size; Bright green; tight hard to harvest , 1* head Insufficient leaf cover , 1* Heads firm; leaf tight
Stem does not want Stem easily breaks to separate from away clean when fruit pulled Insufficient size , 1* " to " at shoulder
Head not developed Head compact; , 1* fairly smooth Stem too small , 1* Plant 12" to 15" tall; stem medium thick Insufficient leaf size, 1*
Grain watery; small Grain plump; liquid Grain starting to dent; ; BABY CORN, 1* in milk stage liquid in dough stage Insufficient size , 1* Insufficient size , 1* Head not fully formed , 1* Skin dark green; seeds soft High glossy skin; side springs back when mashed Fairly firm; good size Skin beginning to yellow; seeds hard Seeds brown; side will not spring back when mashed Heads very hard Fiber development; pods tough
Leaves Pod
Bulb Seed
All tops down; bulb rot started Pods yellow; peas large
Peas immature and Peas small to too small to shell ; medium; sweet EDIBLE PODS, 1* bright green Peas immature and Seeds fully too small to shell ; developed but still EDIBLE soft; pods soft IMMATURE POD, 1* Pod thin and small, Tick walled and 1* green to some red Pods still light green and thin walled , 1* Bright red/yellow etc. and firm
Pepper, Green Bell Pod Pepper, Colored Bell Potato, Irish Potato, Sweet Pod
Tuber Root
Insufficient size, 1* When tops begin to Damaged by freezing die back weather Size small; immature; 1* Most roots 2" to 3" Early plantings get too in diameter large & crack; damaged by soil temperatures below 50F Appropriate size for Pithy, strong flavor, hot variety. taste, fibrous. Pods thick; bright green Pods yellowing/ dry; seed shatters out Penetration by thumbnail difficult; seed large Damaged by frost
Insufficient size, 1* Rind can be penetrated by thumbnail Rind soft but can be Rind difficult to used as summer penetrate by squash, 1* thumbnail May be harvested in three stages:
Squash, Winter
Fruit
Tomatoes
Fruit
Mature green tomato firm, mature, color change from green to light green, no pink color showing on blossom end. Pink pink color on blossom end half. These tomatoes, at room temperature, will ripen in 3-4 days. Expose to indirect light / dont keep in the dark. Ripe tomato full red but still firm. Should be used immediately or these tomatoes will store one to two weeks if kept 60 F. (Warm to room temp before using.) Watermelon Fruit Flesh green; stem green and difficult to separate Melon surface next Top surface has dull look to ground turns from light straw color to a richer yellow
Some first time gardeners are so excited their plants are growing that they dont want to pick them. But thats the whole point! Harvesting produce for healthy meals and to share with friends is a true joy.
Resources
Local gardening resources for education, information, plants, and events:
Clark County Food and Farm website http://clarkfoodfarm.blogspot.com/2009/01/washougal-community-garden.html (local food and farm site with information, classes, events, and products) The Urban Farm School P. O. Box 393(?) Ridgefield, WA 98642 Kendra Pearce (360) 852-3728 Toree Hiebert (360) 907-5814 http://urbanfarmschool.wordpress.com/about-urban-farm-school/ (teaching people how to farm their urban/suburban land) Vancouver Food Network P.O. Box 249 Vancouver, WA 98666 (360) 694-3663 http://VancouverFood.Net (local food and gardening information, presentations, classes, and events, Consumer Supported Agriculture (CSA) farm information) Washington State University (WSU) Extension Center for Agriculture and Science Environmental Education (CASEE) Center 11104 NE 149th Street, 11104 NE 149th St, Brush Prairie, WA 98606, 360-397-6060, Contact Us Brush Prairie, WA 98606 360-397-6060 x7718 gordonc@wsu.edu http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/plantClinic.html WSUs home page for gardening info in Clark County http://gardening.wsu.edu/ WSUs master gardener website with moderated forum for gardening discussions Clark County Public Works Naturally Beautiful Backyards/ Master Composter and Recycler Program 1300 Franklin Street Vancouver, WA 98660 (360) 397-6118
http://www.co.clark.wa.us/recycle/natural/index.html Naturally Beautiful Backyards program http://www.clark.wa.gov/recycle/yard/mastercomposter.html Master Composter and Recycler program http://www.clark.wa.gov/recycle/A-Z/Resources/CSEEC.html Columbia Springs Environmental Education Center Find a Consumer Supported Agriculture (CSA) farm near you www.swwa-csafarms.com (CSAs sell shares to people who then receive a weekly allotment of fresh produce through the growing season) Find a farm stand near you http://smallfarms.wsu.edu/farms/locate_search.asp Find a local farmers market http://www.clark.wa.gov/public-health/living/eating.html Battle Ground Farmers Market (Brenda Millar Stanton, Market Coordinator) SE Grace Avenue and SE Rasmussen Blvd., Battle Ground http://battlegroundfarmersmarket.com www.battlegroundfarmersmarket.org (360) 576-9767 email is battlegroundfma@yahoo.com Hours are 9-3 every Saturday through October 17th. Manor Farmers Market Evangelical Christian Church, 179th Street and 72nd Avenue, Battle Ground http://www.manorec.com Camas Farmers Market 5th Avenue between NE Birch and Cedar, Camas http://camasfarmersmarket.com Vancouver Farmers Market Esther Short Park, corner of Esther and 8th Streets, Vancouver http://vancouverfarmersmarket.com/index.html Washougal Farmers Market Reflection Plaza Main and Pendleton Way, Washougal http://washougalfarmersmarket.com
Elementary School Gardens Camas Roots Garden Growing Food, Minds, and Community
www.camasroots.org
HomeLink School Gardens High School Horticulture programs: Columbia River High School 800 NW 99th Street, 98665 Fort Vancouver High School 5700 East 18th Street, 98661 Hudsons Bay High School 1601 East McLoughlin Blvd., 98663 Lewis & Clark High School 2901 General Anderson Avenue, 98661 Skyview High School 1300 NW 139th Street, 98685
Book List
Check with Library for these and other helpful gardening books. All New Square Foot Gardening: Growing More in Less Space by Mel Bartholomew This is the second edition of Mels 1982 best selling gardening book. It gives the basics, instructions, and guidance for gardening by the square foot method plus planting information and multiple useful gardening tables. The New Self-Sufficient Gardener by John Seymour This is the definitive book on the "common-sensical" way to do things told in a homey, conversational way. The Vegetable Garden by M. M. Vilmorin-Andrieux This is a modern reprint of a wonderful booklots of information of the cultivars of vegetables, including many you've never even heard of--first published in 1885 but still a valuable resource. Out of print, search for used. The Sustainable Vegetable Garden: A Backyard Guide to Healthy Soil and Higher Yields by John Jeavons and Carol Cox 100 Heirloom Tomatoes for the American Garden by Dr. Carolyn J. Male She is the doyenne of heirloom-tomato experts. The Heirloom Tomato by Amy Goldman Another winner to follow her heirloom melons success.. Four-Season Harvest: Organic Vegetables from Your Home Garden All Year Long by Eliot Coleman Growing veggies through the winter (and summer) in Maine. Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners by Suzanne Ashworth This is the definitive seed-saving and seed-starting manual--the one far and away most often recommended by seed houses.
Taylors Guide to Vegetables and Herbs by Norman Taylor et al This "pocket guide" is extraordinarily valuable because of its wonderful series of photographs of each vegetable and herb described; but the concise yet complete entries themselves are also quite useful in a summary way. (Out of print) Guide to Heirloom Vegetables by Benjamin Watson Like the item above, except, of course, focused on "heirloom" varieties. Herbs, Spices, and Flavorings by Tom Stobart This is an indispensable book to anyone interested in cooking with or in growing food flavorings. The Big Book of Herbs By Tom DeBaggio and Dr. Arthur Tucker A collaboration between an long-time recognized expert herb grower and one of the nation's foremost botanical experts on herbs, this book clarifies the muddy mess of modern herb classification and provides a wealth of detail on growing herbs. Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte The most thorough guide available to "companion planting"--the idea that certain plants very much help or hinder the growth of certain other plants when the two are planted close together. No positive science that we know of, but a principle widely believed in by many wise, veteran gardeners. Rodales All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening by Marshall Bradley, Barbara W. Ellis (Editor) It really is what its title says: an encyclopedia. No one article exhausts the possibilities of its subject, but it's sort of the Joy of Cooking of gardening--whatever you want to know about, there's at least some useful information in it. The Backyard Berry Book by Stella Otto Lots of handy, practical advice on how to grow berry plants of all sorts in your back yard; it covers quite a number of berry types, with some advice on cultivar selection.
The Backyard Orchardist by Stella Otto Lots of handy, practical advice on how to grow fruit trees of all sorts in your back yard; it covers quite a number of types, with some advice on cultivar selection. Let It Rot! by Stu Campbell "The Gardener's Guide to Composting"--and that is pretty much what it is, a sound, basic handbook on this subject of vital importance to every serious home vegetable gardener. Saving Seeds: The Gardener's Guide to Growing & Storing Vegetable & Flower Seeds by Marc Rogers, Ben Watson (Editor), Polly Alexander (Illustrator)
Coalition Building
This third point can be demonstrated in either of two ways: incentives can be offered to make the benefits of joining the coalition high, or sanctions can be threatened, making the costs of not joining even higher. For example, the United States offered a variety of financial aid and political benefits to countries that joined its coalition against Iraq in 2003; it also threatened negative repercussions
for those who failed to join, and much worse for those who sided with Saddam Hussein. Another method that can make joining the coalition appealing is to eliminate alternatives to the coalition. Once most of one's allies or associates have joined a coalition, it is awkward...perhaps dangerous not to join oneself. Although people and organizations often prefer non-action to making a risky decision, if they find themselves choosing between getting on board a growing coalition or being left behind, getting on board is often more attractive.[6] Lastly, coalition builders may use precedence as a means of social influence. For example, in making decisions, people (or countries) generally want to remain consistent with prior commitments. That means that nations can pressure their allies to act with them in new endeavors. Failing to do so, it can be argued, would hurt their "long-standing alliance." This strategy is not always successful, especially if the self-interest of the other group seems to be harmed by the proposed action. (France, for instance, was not willing to join the U.S. coalition against Iraq in 2003, despite a long-term alliance between France and the U.S.)
organizational styles, cultures, and relationships must be considered as well before any choices are made.
[1] Douglas H. Yarn, The Dictionary of Conflict Resolution. (San Francisco: Jossey-Bass Publishers, 1991), 81. [2] "Coalition Building" (Boulder, CO: Conflict Research Consortium, 1998, accessed on January 30, 2003); available from http://www.colorado.edu/conflict/peace/problem/coalition.htm; Internet. [3] Michael Watkins and Susan Rosegrant. "Building Coalitions." In Breakthrough International Negotiation: How Great Negotiators Transformed the World's Toughest Post-Cold War Conflicts. (San Francisco: Jossey-Bass Publishers, 2001), 211. [4] "Coalition Building," op.cit [5] Michael Watkins and Susan Rosegrant, op. cit [6] Ibid, 218-219. [7] Florida Office of Collegiate Volunteerism, Coalition Building Guide. (1991, accessed 1 July 2003) available from http://www.tzd.state.mn.us/gettingstarted.html; Internet. [8] Ibid.
Use the following to cite this article: Spangler, Brad. "Coalition Building." Beyond Intractability. Eds. Guy Burgess and Heidi Burgess. Conflict Research Consortium, University of Colorado, Boulder. Posted: June 2003 <http://www.beyondintractability.org/essay/coalition_building/>.
II.
a. Determine and secure permission for locations b. Check with officials for zoning, water needs and billing, etc. c. Obtain landlord permission prior to installations
a. Order enough copies of All New Square Foot Gardening for each participant/family and each mentor b. Order plant starts based on participant requests (order some extras) c. Purchase or obtain via donations (or combination of both) materials for beds: i. Cedar boards ii. Hardware for construction iii. Lath or other material for grids iv. Miscellaneous supplies such as tomato stakes, wood and netting for trellises, etc. d. Determine soil mixture to be used and purchase or obtain via donations (or combination of both) ingredients for the soil mix i. Vermiculite ii. Peat moss iii. 5 different kinds of compost iv. Other if you decide to use a different soil e. Purchase or obtain via donations (or combination of both) supplies for participant gardening kits: i. Kneeling pads ii. Gloves for each family member iii. Garden trowel iv. Seeds per participant request forms
a. Coordinate installation schedules with participants, installers, and mentors b. Assure soil mix will be available and ready to add with installations c. Retrieve and distribute plants to participants ideally on or prior to installation day (unless beds are installed prior to planting time) d. Meet at participants home with installers and assure needs are met for installers and participants regarding installations i. At least one adult participant must be present for installationgoal is
e. Stencil number sequence on boxes for tracking f. Take plenty of pictures throughout installations at multiple sites
to engage participants fully in process and provide education about sunny site, proximity to water and house, etc.
g. Monitor through season to assure participants and mentors are well connected and have what they need; provide on-going encouragement, support, and appreciation for all involved h. Deliver post tests and evaluations with stamped return envelopes to participants i. Deliver evaluations with stamped return envelopes or via e-mail to mentors j. Begin data evaluation as evaluations are returned k. Follow up with participants and mentors to assure good return rate of post tests and evaluations l. Begin data evaluation
V.
Enlist help of volunteers and delegate tasks Locate and reserve a convenient, adequate location with a kitchen Plan most convenient date and time and design an invitation Send invitation about 3 weeks prior to event; invite everyone involved Assure all gardenersbut especially participantsknow to contribute a dish made with produce from their gardens Plan for extras: bread, drinks, dessert, pitchers, tablecloths, etc. Develop displays of project using lots of pictures and quotes Create Certificates of Participation for participants Create Certificates of Appreciation for mentors Create any other acknowledgements as deemed appropriate Hold potluck celebration and take lots of pictures Eat, drink, and enjoy!
a. Gather all straggler surveys, evaluations, and comments; follow up to collect missing data b. Compile data into reports, articles, and/or presentations c. Present on project and outcomes to any and all interested parties d. Save everything for future project opportunities
Attachment 1:
Dear Potential Gardener, Do you like the idea of growing delicious fruits and vegetables in your own yard? If so, you might be interested in Your Projects Names home gardening project. The goal of the project is to help folks who may be struggling with grocery bills to eat more fruits and vegetables by growing their own produce. Home gardening reduces costs, transportation, and storage and spoilage problems of fresh foods. And, its a lot of fun! This project will create home gardens provided at no cost to qualifying participants. To be eligible, you or someone in your household must receive medical coupons and/or food stamps. Knowing how to garden is not necessary-- just the desire to learn and to eat your own fresh produce. One 4 x 8 wooden raised bed will be installed in a sunny spot in your yard. A crew will build the frames, fill them with soil, and provide seeds and vegetable starts. An All New Square Foot Gardening book and garden tools will be supplied. Experienced garden mentors will provide ongoing gardening education and support to you. Maintaining the garden is easy since its so small. But dont let the small size fool you; a well-planned raised bed can grow lots of produce. To apply, please fill out the enclosed forms. Selection will be based on the completed application with landlord approval, verification of a medical coupons or food stamps for at least one household member, and a commitment to tending the garden throughout the growing season. Deadline for applications is 00/00/00. All applicants will be informed of acceptance by 00/00/00. Thank you for your time and interest.
Attachment 2: Landlord Agreement/Participant Covenant Covenant for Participation in Your Projects Name Food Gardening Project 2009
I/we, __________________________________, are applying for acceptance to the Your Projects Name Food Gardening Project. I/we understand that project staff and volunteers will install a raised bed, provide soil, seeds, and starts to plant our garden, and that I/we will be paired with a garden mentor for support and education. By signing below I/we confirm that I/we have obtained permission from our landlord(s) to participate in this project. I/we commit to planting, tending, and harvesting our garden throughout the 2009 growing season. I/we also agree to fully participate in project activities including allowing photographs of our garden. I/we will not hold your organization or any participating organization liable for any damages or injuries incurred during this project. Signed: ______________________________________ Date: _______ Signed: ______________________________________ Date: _______ Signed: _______________________________________Date: _______ I/we own our home:______________________________ Date: _______ I/we, _______________________________________, owners/landlords of the property at __________________________________________, agree to my/our tenants participation in the Your Projects Name project. I/we understand that participation involves installation of one 4 x 8 raised bed of wood construction including digging up the ground within the raised bed. I/we agree not to hold your organization responsible or liable for any damages to my/our property due to participation in this project. You may contact me at (phone) ______________________ or (e-mail) ________________________________________ to verify confirmation. Signed: _________________________________________ Date: ______ Signed: ____________________________________________Date: ______
1. How much gardening experience do you have? none very little some quite a bit Im an expert gardener
2. Growing produce (fruits and vegetables) for myself and my family is important because: (please circle all that apply) a. b. c. d. e. f. g. h. Its fresher Its readily available Its safer Its cheaper Maybe my children will eat more if we grow it Maybe I and other adults in my home will eat more if we grow it Its not important Other:
3. How would you rate your ability to provide nutritious foods for your family? very limited limited Ok good very good
4. How many servings of produce do you usually eat each day? 0-1 2-3 4-5 5 or more
5. How many servings of produce do you serve your family each day? 0-1 1-3 3-5 5 or more
6. How much time do you spend doing activities outside (including gardening) each day? 0-1 hour 1-3 hours 3-5 hours more than 5 hours
7. How would you rate your level of physical activity? low somewhat active moderately active very active
8. What benefits do you hope to gain/did you gain for yourself and/or your family by growing a garden? (please circle all that apply) a. b. c. d. e. f. g. h. i. j. bigger food supply/ save money on groceries bring family together on an activity increased physical activity better nutrition for self and/or family sense of accomplishment create new and/or better relationships improved health for self and/or family opportunity to share with others no benefits expected other:
How many people will/did help tend your garden and how many people will eat/ate from your garden? Tended by: Adults:___________________ Children (1 18 yr.):________ Babies (birth 1 yr):________ Any other comments welcome: Eat from: Adults:_____________________ Children (1-18 yr.):_____________ Babies (birth 1 yr):___________
Herbs:
basil
chives
parsley
rosemary
sage
thyme
Seeds/ sets
carrots
green beans
lettuce
onions
peas
potatoes
radishes
spinach
Swiss chard
zucchini
Flowers
marigolds
nasturtiums
sunflowers
Other:
SFG Book
gloves
pad
trowel
covenant
presurvey
photo release
Attachment 5:
participants have (completed a survey) and signed a covenant agreeing to tend their garden throughout the growing season.
Your Projects Name is developing a project to promote home gardening among your target group.. This project involves __# of people/families in specific place or area. The selected
Partner has agreed to build and install 4'x 8' wooden raised bed frames. Partner will also fill
the beds with a special organic soil mixture so the beds will be and ready to plant the same day. We hope to install the beds early to mid-March/April. Plant starts are awaiting us from your source. We will purchase other starts and seeds as per participant request. While the focus is vegetables, herbs and flowers will also be encouraged.
U
The role of the garden mentor will be to educate, guide, and support these families/participants--some of which have never gardened before. The plan is for the mentor of each family to meet with us at the family's home on the day of installation for introductions and to get a general idea of the family's gardening goals. After that, a minimum of one contact per week--could occasionally be by phone in the event of vacations--to support, educate, and cheer the family on. This is a commitment of sharing time, knowledge, and encouragement; no financial costs to you should be incurred. Project coordinator will be taking photographs and chronicling the project throughout the summer so I would want to rendezvous with you at your participant's garden sometimes. We'll celebrate the "end" (gardening never ends) of the project with a big potluck for all participants and mentors at the your chosen place sometime in September. What a perfect community service project: supporting delightful, appreciative citizens in their efforts to feed their families fresh, delicious produce grown in their own small, contained garden. Since the time commitment is small some of you may want to mentor 2 or 3 families which would be wonderful!!! Thank you so much for your interest. I've no doubt that this will be a fun and satisfying experience for those who choose to participate. Please feel free to contact me via phone (###-#####) or e-mail for further information.
Your Name,
Project Coordinator
I, _____________________________________, agree to the following requirements for mentoring a gardener in the Your Projects Name Food Gardening project: _____ attend mentor orientation _____ arrange weekly contact with the gardener (in person initially, by phone later) _____ help with installation of the gardening bed (first year gardeners only) _____ educate, support, and guide my mentee(s) through the gardening season _____ abide by any security requirements for the site _____ practice chemical free gardening _____ complete a post project evaluation _____ relax and enjoy this experience! Signed:______________________________________ Date:_______________ Please return this application to:
All gardeners are requested to bring a potluck dish made with produce from your garden Beverages, bread, and dessert provided For further information and to RSVP, please contact coordinator name at ###-####