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QUALITY ASSURANCE - CHEMICAL LABORATORY QUALITY WORK INSTRUCTION TESTING (CHEMICAL) OF YARN & FABRIC

QW-QA-402 Rev No 4.0 Page 01 of 06

INDEX

Test Method No.

Test Parameter

Page No.

Determination of Colour Fastness to Washing

02

Determination of Colour Fastness to Rubbing

03

Determination of Residual Shrinkage on Washing at 60C Determination of Size Pick-up of Yarn

04

05

Determination of Moisture-content of Yarn

06

Reviewed & Approved By : In-Charge(Chem Lab) Issued by : In-Charge (Chem lab)

Copy No. Date :10 Sep'99

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QUALITY ASSURANCE - CHEMICAL LABORATORY QUALITY WORK INSTRUCTION TESTING (CHEMICAL) OF YARN & FABRIC

QW-QA-402 Rev No 4.0 Page 02 of 06

TEST METHOD No. 1 DETERMINATION OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING (Based on ISO-105/C-1981 Test 3) Purpose This method is used for determination of colour fastness of dyed/printed fabrics and dyed yarn samples to the action of soap and sodium carbonate solution at 60 2C. Principle A specimen of textile sample in contact with specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically agitated in soap-soda solution, rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with standard grey scales. Apparatus 1) Laundrometer : A mechanical washing device with a) A water-bath containing a rotor with which stainless steel pots of 500 ml capacity are rotated, and b) means of thermostatically controlling the temperature of water-bath so as to maintain the temperature of test solution in the containers at 60 2 C. 2) Grey Scales : 1) For assessing change in colour fastness 2) For assessing staining of adjacent fabric 3) Adjacent fabric (Bleach cotton fabric without optical brighten treats. Reagents Soap-Soda solution: The solution shall contain 5 g of soap and 2 g of sodium carbonate per litre of water. Preparation of test specimen : Attach a specimen of test sample measuring 10 x 8 cms,between the two pieces of adjacent fabric, also measuring 10 x 8 cms bystapling along one side of the shorter side. Procedure : Place the test specimen in the pot of the Laundrometer. Add the necessary amount of soap-soda solution to give a material to liquor ratio of 1:50. Close the lid and place the pot in the Laundrometer already brought to the temperature 60 2 C. Wash the specimen for 30 minutes at the same temperature. After 30 minutes, remove the specimen, rinse it thoroughly with water. Dry the specimen in the air at a temperature not exceeding 60 C. Evaluation : Evaluate the change in colour of the treated test specimen, also termed as effect on pattern (Ep) and the staining of the adjacent fabrics (St), with the help of Grey scales for assessing change in colour and staining respectively. Standard : As per QS-QA-402 Copy No. Date :10 Sep'99

Reviewed & Approved By : In-Charge(Chem Lab) Issued by : In-Charge (Chem lab)

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QUALITY ASSURANCE - CHEMICAL LABORATORY QUALITY WORK INSTRUCTION TESTING (CHEMICAL) OF YARN & FABRIC

QW-QA-402 Rev No 4.0 Page 03 of 06

TEST METHOD No. 2 DETERMINATION OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING (Based on AATCC-8-1988) Purpose : This method is used for determination of colour fastness of dyed/printed fabrics and dyed yarn samples to rubbing off and staining other materials. Apparatus : 1) Crockmeter : a Rubbing device. 2) Rubbing cloth : Adequate number of pieces each 5 x 5 cm of undyed bleached cotton cloth free from starch or other finishing materials are used. 3) Grey Scales : For assessing change in staining. Procedure : Dry Rubbing Test Place the sample under test on the base of the crockmeter so that it rests flat on the abrasive cloth with its long dimension in the direction of rubbing. Fix a piece of the Rubbing cloth over the peg on the crockmeter by means of the holder provided. Lower the finger of crockmeter on the mounted sample and make it to slide back and forth twenty times by making ten complete turns of the crank at the rate of one turn per second. Remove the rubbing piece and evaluate. Wet Rubbing Test Thoroughly wet out Rubbing piece in water. Remove the excess water from it by squeezing it between absorbent cloth. Fix it on the peg and work in a manner similar to Dry rubbing test. Air dry or iron the wet rubbing piece before evaluating. Evaluation : Evaluate the amount of colour transferred from the sample under test to the Rubbing pieces under examination by means of the Grey scales for assessing staining. Standard for Fastens to Dry Rubbing As per QS-QA-402

Reviewed & Approved By : In-Charge(Chem Lab) Issued by : In-Charge (Chem lab)

Copy No. Date :10 Sep'99

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QUALITY ASSURANCE - CHEMICAL LABORATORY QUALITY WORK INSTRUCTION TESTING (CHEMICAL) OF YARN & FABRIC

QW-QA-402 Rev No 4.0 Page 04 of 06

TEST METHOD No. 3 DETERMINATION OF RESIDUAL SHRINKAGE ON WASHING AT 60C (Based on: AATCC Test Method 135-1987) Purpose : This method is used for determining the dimensional changes of woven cotton fabrics on washing by Tumble dry low method. Terminology : Dimensional changes: Changes in the dimensions (in length or width or both) after subjecting the fabric to the prescribed test and expressed as a percentage of the corresponding dimension before such test. These changes may be of 2 types: (a) Shrinkage : A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in length or width of a specimen, and (b) Elongation : A dimensional change resulting in an increase in the length/width. Apparatus : 1) Automatic washing machine (SUPREMO from M/s IFB), 2) Tumble dryer ( From M/s IFB), 3) Steel measuring scale, having graduation in millimetres. 4) Loading cloth : Pieces of woven cloth. 5) Detergent Procedure : Take a test specimen of the size: about 65 cm x full width for testing. Spread it on the measuring table and remove the creases and folds (if any) by hand. Taking extreme care not to extend or distort the test specimen, put 6 pairs of ink marks on the sample with the help of mrking / measuring scale (three pairs each in warp and weft directions). Each mark should be at least 50 mm away from the selvedge or edge of the test specimen and the distance between each pairs of mark should be 50 cm. Put the test specimen along with the loading cloth (Total weight should be from 1.7 to 2 kg) through the porthole window of the washing machine. Close the porthole window. Fix the wash programme of the washing m/c corresponding to desired temperature (60 C) i.e., Washing M/c Programme No 6 by setting the programme selector nob on Button C.Add 90 gm detergent in detergent tray. After the end of the program, remove the test specimen from the M/C and dry it by putting it in a tumble dryer machine, selecting regular temperature setting and with timer setting on 60. In the tumble dryer the fabrics are dried by hot air through tumbling action. Place the dried sample on the measuring table carefully and carefully remove all creases and folds and measure the distance between each pairs of marks with the help of measuring scale. Calculation : Calculate the percentage change in dimension by following formula: S = (a - b)/a x 100 where S = % dimensional change, a = distance between pairs before treatment (100 cm) & b = distance between pairs after treatment. Take the mean of the three warpwise (lengthwise) and the three weftwise (widthwise) values and report the results obtained. Standard : As per QS-QA-402 Reviewed & Approved By : In-Charge(Chem Lab) Issued by : In-Charge (Chem lab) Copy No. Date :10 Sep'99

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QUALITY ASSURANCE - CHEMICAL LABORATORY QUALITY WORK INSTRUCTION TESTING (CHEMICAL) OF YARN & FABRIC

QW-QA-402 Rev No 4.0 Page 05 of 06

TEST METHOD No. 4 DETERMINATION OF SIZE PICK-UP OF YARN Purpose : This method is used for determining the size pick-up of yarn samples. Apparatus : 1) Water bath, 2) Soxhlet extraction apparatus Reagents : 1) Chloroform (`SQ' grade), 2) Enzyme : A high activity alpha- amylase enzyme 3) Sodium chloride solution (1%), 4) Calcium chloride solution (1%), 5) Wetting agent Test specimen Cut one specimen from the sized yarn sample under test and tie it with some yarns from the same sample. The weight of this specimen should be from 1-3 g. Procedure : Weigh the test specimen accurately. Extract it with chloroform for 1 hour for removal of fatty matter of the size using Soxhlet extraction apparatus. At the end of this wash the specimen first in hot water followed by cold water. Now immerse the specimen in a desizing bath already heated to 50-60C, keeping material to liquor ratio 1:20. Desizing bath is prepared by taking 0.5 ml/l of the enzyme + 6 ml/l (= 60 mg/l) each of sodium chloride and calcium chloride solutions + 1ml/l of the wetting agent and rest water. Keep the specimens in desizing bath at temperature 50-60C for 2 hours. At the end of 2 hours, take out the specimen, wash it first with hot water ( 80C) followed with cold water. Repeat the washings in the same order 3 more times. Finally squeeze the specimen to remove excess of water and dry in oven at temperature 105 2C. Condition the dried specimen to room temperature and weigh. Calculation : Calculate the percentage % size pick-up as follows: % Size pick-up = Initial weight - (K x Final weight) -------------------------------------------- x 100 (K x Final weight)

Where K is a constant and its value is 1.05. Target : As per QS-QA-402 Reviewed & Approved By : In-Charge(Chem Lab) Issued by : In-Charge (Chem lab) Copy No. Date :10 Sep'99

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QUALITY ASSURANCE - CHEMICAL LABORATORY QUALITY WORK INSTRUCTION TESTING (CHEMICAL) OF YARN & FABRIC

QW-QA-402 Rev No 4.0 Page 06 of 06

TEST METHOD No. 6 DETERMINATION OF MOISTURE - CONTENT OF YARN Purpose : This method is used for determining the moisture content of yarn samples. Apparatus : 1) Oven 2) Glass Weighing Bottle 3) Dessicator Test specimen Cut one specimen from the sized yarn sample under test and tie it with some yarns from the same sample. The weight of this specimen should be from 2-5 g. Procedure : Weigh the empty weighing bottle, place the test specimen in it. Cover the bottle with lid and weigh again. Keep the weighing bottle with test specimen in it in a Oven heated to 105 2C in open position (without lid). Dry the yarn sample in Oven for 4 hours. Then cover the bottle with lid, take out from oven and keep in a dessicator. After cooling, weigh the bottle (With dry yarn sample inside) again. Calculation :(A-B) - (C-B) x 100 % Moisture content = -----------------------------(A-B) Where, A --> Weight of weighing bottle + Yarn Sample (Before drying) B --> Weight of empty weighing bottle C --> Weight of weighing bottle + Yarn Sample (After drying)

Target : As per QS-QA-402

Reviewed & Approved By : In-Charge(Chem Lab) Issued by : In-Charge (Chem lab)

Copy No. Date :10 Sep'99