South India Heritage-Kanchipuram Saris of Tamil Nadu

Introduction Sari-the 6 yard, unstitched, runny garment over and around the body, fiddle with little tucks and pulls is the perfect Indian female piece of clothing which speaks of the beauty, grace, dignity, poise and also the power hidden in every single Indian woman. The origin of this splendid garment is a bit ambiguous due to lack of appropriate historical records in India but one thing's for sure-the sari swank the oldest subsistence and is more than 5000 years old, as mentioned in the Vedas. The sari is one of the most feminine outfits ever. The common types of saris are Kanjeevaram, Paithani, Banarasi, Bhagalpuri, Orissa Ikkat, Maheshwari, Chanderi, Gujrati Patola, and Jaipuri Leheriya. The material and the print on the sari can vary according to choice and the occasion. The common materials for a sari are silks (the queen of textiles), cottons; chiffons, organza and georgettes. Out of these the ethnic traditional wear that is worn in most parts of the country is colorful silk sarees. In collection of sarees of Indian woman all around the world is incomplete without a Kanchipuram (Kanjeevaram) saree, one of India's most precious traditional treasures. This Sari depicts the essence of womanhood and adds special charm to it. A Kanjeevaram sari is bound to be a crowd puller and it can woo anybody with its absolute beauty. It continues to hold arrogance among the various silk sari varieties available in the country. The rich weave and feel of Kancheepuram Sarees also known as Kanchipuram and Kancheevaram and sometimes Kanchivaram saris hold everyone in their wave for the past 150 years. This saree is a tremendous instigation of the craftsmen living in a small town, Kanchi (Kanchipuram) a famous historical and mythological town 60 km from Chennai, the capital of Tamilnadu. These saris are truly the South India heritage. Silk weaving in the handloom sector is clustered in and around Kanchipuram. It can be worn by women of all ages.

Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu

(Kanchipuram is also known as Kanchi; also spelled as Kancheepuram) Fast Facts
State: Tamil Nadu District: Kanchipuram Famous for/as: Pilgrim Languages: Tamil, English Best Season: Throughout the year Weather: Summer 21-36C, Winter 1928C Pincode: 631xxx STD code: 044

Kanchipuram is in the state of Tamil Nadu, and is located on the western bank of the Palar River. Such a location already hints at the impressive scenery that can be seen when in this remarkable city. This city is often referred to as the 'golden city of a thousand temples'. With such a catch phrase associated with Kanchipuram, you automatically know that although there are not literally one thousand temples in the area, there is a vast array of beautiful temples that can be seen. With so many temples, it is no wonder that this city is a popular pilgrimage spot for people who belong to the Hindu religion. Kanchipuram is considered one of the Seven Sacred Cities of India. In this context, it is particularly known for being the seat for bearing culture and philosophy. With such an association being made with this city, it only makes sense that this location has become such a cultural center in modern times.

On top of its religious and cultural significances, Kanchipuram is also a strong commerce center. This exceptional city is especially known for producing some of the finest silk in the entire world. Since this city has so much to offer in any way that can be thought of, it is no wonder that it is such a popular tourist stop. Beautiful scenery, historic temples, religious and cultural implications, and outstanding goods like quality silk are all found in one place, and that happening place is Kanchipuram.

Must See/Do: Kanchi Kamakshi Temple, Kamakshi Amman Temple,Kanchi Kudhil

History
History claims Kanchipuram to be one of the oldest cities in South India. Various documentations by Kalidas highlight Kanchipuram, which was then known as Kanchi, to be a city to be one among the best in the medieval times. Kanchipuram saw their first rulers from the Pallava dynasty, which lasted from 4th to 9th century. The great Husan Tsang is known to have visited this city during the reigns of the Pallavas, who are credited for building the temple attractions of the city. The famous Sanskrity writer Dandin and the founder of Zen Buddhism, Bodhidharma were born here. Accordint to historians, Hsuan Tsang visited Kanchipuram in the 7th century, when the city was only 6 miles in circumference. The people of those times were known for their bravery and piousness along with their love for learning. Buddha is also said to have visited this town. After the downfall of the Pallavas empire, Cholas took over the reigns of the city and ruled here from 10th to 13th century. Further the Vijayanagar dynasty ruled on the city from 14th to 17th century, during which they built the architectural splendours of Ekamabaranadhar temple and 100-pillar Mandabam in Varadaraja Perumal temple. After regular invasions by the Mughals, the city finally slipped into the hands of the British, who establishes their empire and ruled for nearly 3 centuries. Reference of Kanchipuram can be found in Patanjali's Mahabhashya written in the second century B.C. Manimekalai, the famous Tamil classic and Perumpanatru Padai a great Tamil poetical work have also given a vivid description of the city before the advent of the Christian era.

Travel within city

Travelling around Kanchipuram is quite easy, as there are many buses and auto rickshaws available for travel. Kanchipuram is a very interesting town, with a lot of temples and other tourist favorites.

Bus
Buses are the best mode of transport available in Kanchipuram, and you can reach any part of the town by taking a bus from the main bus stand. Buses in Kanchipuram are not very crowded, and the commute can be comfortable as well. You should ensure that you know the general layout of the town while travelling by bus, just to make sure that you figure out the stops in a right manner. You can also ask the conductor for help, in case you need to know where to disembark. Bus fares are minimal, and you will need to spend around Rs 3 to 5 in order to reach any destination within the town.

Auto Rickshaw
Auto rickshaws are another popular mode of travel in Kanchipuram, and the auto rickshaws in Kanchipuram do not run on meter. Auto drivers may demand any fare that they deem fit, so it is better to talk to the locals and fix up a particular rate without backing down. Travelling through auto rickshaws in Kanchipuram is not really necessary unless its an emergency as most of the places are covered by buses. Auto fares may range from Rs 20 to 40. Auto rickshaws are safe for night time travel and there are no night fares involved.

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Silken Times in Kanchipuram

Kanchipuram, the temple town, instantly evokes memories of a bygone era in tourists and is mainly popular for this very reason. With its quaint old buildings and bustling culture, the place is an ideal spot for historians, pilgrims and shoppers alike.

Kanchipuram is one of the most famous temple towns of Tamil Nadu, popularly called the city of 1000 temples. It is also considered to be one of the seven holy cities of India, revered for its culture and rich temple heritage. Ancient texts give evidence of this thriving temple town, renowned for its learning centers dating back to 500 B.C.

When people mention Kanchipuram, they immediately think of rich silks and bustling temples with their majestic towers. Located at just 70 kilometers from the metropolis of Chennai, Kanchipuram is a short drive away through the picturesque coastal highway.

The Towns Historical Significance

Kanchipuram has always had a rich tradition of arts, culture and learning; successive dynasties that ruled the th temple town have helped by patronizing the local craftsmen. During the Pallava reign, in the 4 the th 9 centuries, the town flourished and was considered as one of the best centers of learning in India, according to the Chinese traveler Hsuan Tsang.

Many poems belonging to the Sangam period mention Kanchi, as Kanchipuram was known during that age. th th During the Chola rule from the 10 to the 13 centuries, the temple town thrived. In the reign of the th th Vijayanagara kings, from the 14 to 17 centuries, the Shiva temples and their majestic gopurams were built.

The Religious Significance of Kanchipuram

The ancient Shiva temple, also called the Ekambareshwarar temple, is representative of the Earth amongst the five temples dedicated to Lord Shiva which denote the five elements. The Kailasanathar temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva and is the oldest of all temples in the town.

The Kamakshi Amman temple, dedicated to the Goddess Shakti, is one of the 18 major Shakti peetams, of the 52 peetams which are said to contain the various body parts or jewels of the Goddess Dakshyayini which were scattered by Lord Shiva across the Indian subcontinent.

The Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam which was established by the Saint Adi Shankara in 482 B.C. has the unparalleled distinction of being run by 70 consecutive pontiffs without a break through all the turmoil India has suffered over the centuries.

The Varadaraja Perumal temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu is also very significant and is one of the 108 Divya Deshams. The temple has a lizard which is gold plated and is said to bring luck to those who touch it. The Brahmotsavam of the temple in the Tamil month of Vaigasi, which falls in the latter half of May and the first half of June, is very famous and draws thousands of devotees.

The Caress Worthy Kanchipuram Silks

Kanchipuram is synonymous with its silks, aptly called Kanchipuram pattu, meaning silk in the local language. Hand woven with richly embroidered zaris made from spun silver (but golden in color), Kanchipuram silks have come to epitomize luxury to most Indians.

No South Indian wedding is complete without a few Kanchipuram saris for the bride and the immediate families of the bridal couple. Following recent trends, the traditionally grand Kanchipuram sari has evolved and is now embellished with Swarovski crystals and Cubic Zircons to make them even more luxurious and viable.

Not only is Kanchipuram a place where you can sink in history and tradition, you can go on a shopping spree to satisfy your hunger for the finest silk too. Take a trip to Kanchipuram youll love the quaint old town.

Tamil Nadu
Overview Packages Articles

by Sanjay

Tamil Nadu is a basket of culture and tradition woven together which attracts tourists from the entire world. It is known as the temple state o and all across this magnificent state one will find a plethora of remarkable monuments, temples containing intricate carvings and humbling g is characterized by a history which dates back to over a thousand years and a very rich culture. Each attraction will have a religious or artistic story attached to it which will leave one spellbound. Tamil Nadu is one of the favorite hotspots wanting a religious experience.

With its breathtaking hill stations and long sunny beaches Tamil Nadu caters to people who visit not only to soak in the culture but people wh relax and just let go for a while. It boasts of a coastline that is 910 kilometers (600 mi) long, which is the countrys third longest coastline. Tamil Nadu has a lot to offer travel buffs from religious experiences to hill stations to sun-kissed beaches. The different areas in Tamil Nadu looked at as north and south and central region. Tamil Nadu is divided into 32 districts.

Northern Region

The major destinations of the northern region on Tamil Nadu consist of Chennai, Kanchipuram, Mahabalipuram and Pondicherry. Yellagiri an Yercaud are also famous attractions in the northern part. Chennai is the capital of Tamil Nadu and is the main centre where the traditional an merge. Kanchipuram is famous pilgrim destination and is also well known for its silk sarees.

Mahabalipuram is a heritage centre consisting of prominent temples and monuments and is also infamous for its sunny beaches which are a destination for tourists who would want to relax. Yellagiri is a popular hill station characterized by its scenic view and Yercaud is a place well its lake.

Central Region
The central region of Tamil Nadu consist of many a hill station which are renowned for their picturesque mountain ranges, beautiful scenery striking greenery. Some of these destinations include ooty otherwise known as Ootacamund, Kotagiri and Coonoor. Other popular places in region that attract a lot of tourists through out the year would be Madumalai, Thanjavur and Trichy.

br>Madumalai is a place illustrious for its wild life sanctuary whereas Thanjavur and Trichy are prominent locations for pilgrimage. Ooty is kn the queen of the hill stations and consists of picturesque ranges and scenery that is breathtaking. Coimbatore is a major city here.

Southern Region

The southern region of Tamil Nadu consists of quite a few hill stations as well. Of these, the most prominent is Kodaikanal, which is a cradle combines modern facilities as well as a beautiful landscape. It consists of an attractive view of the surrounding mountain ranges as well as th charming feeling of lush green lands.

Madurai, Rameshwar and Kanyakumari are well heard of destinations in south region. Rameshwaram is popular place among pilgrims and is considered a holy place for devotees of lord Shiva as Rameshwaram temple is one of the Jyotirlinga Temples.

Kanyakumari is a place that is legendary as it is the southern most tip of India. It is the meeting point of three seas-the Bay of Bengal, the Ar and the Indian Ocean. It is an important pilgrim centre but is also well known for its beaches.

On the Silk Industry of Kanchipuram, Tamilnadu

An article on the Silk Industry of Kanchipuram, Tamilnadu

Source: FRONTLINE http://www.flonnet.com/fl2220/stories/20051007004112000.htm First Stop on the Silk Route: Kanchipuram's silk industry is adopting to competition and changing customer preferences by modernizing operations by Asha Krishnakumar JUST like Darjeeling in West Bengal is known the world over for its tea, Scotland for Scotch whisky and Champagne in France for its wine, Kancheepuram, in Tamil Nadu, is known for its silk saris. Silk weaving in Kancheepuram is a centuries-old tradition. The town today has over 60,000 silk looms and 22 weaver cooperative societies (nine societies with a turnover of over Rs.10 crores; four with Rs.5-10 crores; and the rest less than Rs.5 crores). The town's annual turnover exceeds Rs.200 crores with exports worth nearly Rs.3 crores. According to S. Nagaraj, Joint Director, Anna Silk Weaving Cooperative Society and Special Officer of Tan Silk, the potential for exports has not risen sharply primarily because the product range is limited to saris and there is hardly any demand for them abroad. But he is confident that with product diversification, which the industry is contemplating, exports will rise. The traditional Kancheepuram silk saris are hand-woven in two parts (the pitni technique). The pallu and the border are woven in one colour as one unit and attached to the body of the sari, which is woven separately and in another colour. The sari is woven with dyed silk yarn, which is interleaved with design made with zari - silk thread twisted with a thin silver wire and then gilded with pure gold. Technically, the silk thread used in Kancheepuram is made of three threads twisted together. Woven from pure mulberry silk, the Kancheepuram silk enjoys a reputation for texture, lustre, durability and finish. Thus, the Kancheepuram silk saris are usually stronger (and more expensive) than those woven elsewhere in the State. While 75 per cent of the zari comes from Gujarat where its production is a cottage industry, the rest comes from Tamil Nadu Zari, the government-owned factory, which is one of its kind in the country. The silk comes primarily from Karnataka.

A unique feature of the Kancheepuram silk sari is its strength, which is made possible by the twisted yarn - double warp and double weft, that gives it the weight; its elaborate border designs usually of temples, peacocks and yali (a horse-like motif) and body patterns of floral dots, stripes and checks; its vibrant colour contrasts that are combinations of traditionally bright, earthy-scarlet, emerald green, black, ochre, purple, steel blue, peacock blue or turquoise; and its exquisite design (korvai saris) beautifully integrating the different colours of the body and the border and pallu. According to Nagaraj, over the centuries, several weaving traditions have been lost. However, with the setting up of weaving centres by the government, the traditions are being carefully studied, researched and revived. With technological development, computer-aided designs that are easily replicated are becoming popular. Says Nagaraj: "Over the years, with changing consumer tastes and preferences, the Kancheepuram silk sari has undergone some changes." Consumers are now concerned about the price and the weight and prefer pastel shades and simple designs. TO beat the competition, the silk industry came out with three types of saris to reduce weight, and, thereby, the price. These are: the contrast variety (the traditional variety in which the border and body are interlocked), the semi-contrast variety (in which there is a warp and weft with different colours in the border and warp runs from the body into the border thus avoiding interlocking of the body with the border) and the plain variety (in which the body and border are of one colour). For a contrast sari, the weaver needs a helper (usually a child) to throw the shuttle across the sari but the semi-contrast and plain saris are produced without this help. This change led to the important social change of doing away with child labour, a practice quite common in the making of contrast saris. For the weaver it meant a fall in the wage cost and an end to child labour. But on the flip side, the plain silk saris are being duplicated by the powerlooms, which are able to sell them at a third of the cost of a Kancheepuram silk sari. Taking advantage of the change in consumer preferences, a section of weavers, both from within and outside Kancheepuram, are also cutting corners. For instance, while in a traditional Kancheepuram silk sari the norm is to have 0.6 per cent of its zari weight in gold and 57 per cent in silver, in most saris now, according to Nagaraj, the gold content is less than 0.2 per cent and the silver content less than 40 per cent. Moreover, the border is also being woven using a mixture of silk and polyester. While one mark (242 gms) of pure zari costs Rs.3,150, the duplicate costs Rs.250-300, thus bringing down substantially the cost of the duplicate silk sari. This has affected adversely the sale of the pure Kancheepuram silk saris. To get over this problem, the government, in collaboration with the Technology Information, Forecasting & Assessment Council, (TIFAC) and Tamil Nadu Zari has set up a zari testing unit in Kancheepuram that measures the weight of gold and silver in a sari. Cooperatives can use this facility by paying a fee of Rs.30 a sari, it is Rs.40 for individuals. Nagaraj said: "The cooperatives use only pure zari and silk. We make sure of the quality, weight and gold-silver norms. This makes their saris costlier than the duplicate ones." While the larger cooperative societies such as Anna Society, which has an annual turnover of Rs.20 crores, have managed to survive the competition, smaller societies are finding it hard to survive. Many private master weavers and loom owners are also affected by the unfair competition. This affects the weavers as stock accumulation results in societies and private master weavers not being able to give sustained work to people. But how are the cooperative societies managing to cater to the changing tastes and preferences? Nagaraj said: "Earlier there was, for instance, only one designer for the 1,550 looms of Anna Society. But now we get designs from the National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad, the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, the Co-optex design wing and several private designers." Also, according to him, the unique selling point of cooperative societies is the quality, the weight and the pureness of silk. The societies ensure the quality of the silk yarn by purchasing it from Tan Silk, the government's shop, through the centralised purchase committee of the government. The government-run dye house ensures the quality of the colours. Several cooperative societies are now gearing themselves to meet the demands of changing consumer preferences. For instance, the Thiruvallur Silk Weaving Society, which operates with 1,000 looms and has an annual turnover of Rs.10 crores, has collaborated with several design centres in India, including the NID and Kalakshetra in Chennai, to cater to the changing design needs. Set up in 1963, the Thiruvalluvar Society also trains its members to improve their skills to meet the changing needs of the market. Along with the other silk weaving societies, it has begun to sell under a brand name - the Loom World. To cater to the changing preferences of consumers, the traditional silk units, according to Nagaraj, have begun weaving churidar sets. It will not be long before they start making furnishings. There is also a move to blend silk with cotton in the body of the sari or make the body with cotton and the border in silk. According to Nagaraj, the past two to three years have been particularly bad for the traditional silk weavers. Stocks have accumulated, working capital has dipped and several weavers are unable to get continuous work. In order to avoid losing customers to poor-quality silk saris and cut losses owing to accumulation of stocks, the societies now offer a discount on sari prices, ranging from 35 to 55 per cent. Throughout the year the government gives a rebate of 20 per cent or Rs.200 (whichever is higher) on all saris. This has helped considerably in clearing stocks. Apart from this, the Central government also gives cash credit to the societies. In a modernisation drive, the societies are beginning to advertise (something unheard of in the past), apart from giving customers the option of design and colour. Two months ago, the Kancheepuram sari was registered under the Geographical Indication Act. According to Nagaraj, under the Act, any sari sold as `Kancheepuram sari' should follow the weight, quality and zari norms. The sari should also be woven in the region. Any duplicate sari-maker selling his product as `Kancheepuram sari' can be booked under the Act. According to Nagaraj, the district administration has launched a drive to abolish child and bonded labour from the silk industry. As the first step, committees have been formed and units monitored; and 100 loom owners have been booked. The government has also developed a simple device that does the work of a helper (usually a child). While this device, which cost Rs.500, has been developed only for a single-side border sari, soon there will be one for double-side border as well. The zari is made in the government-run Tamil Nadu Zari factory in Kancheepuram, but the silver wire needed for its production comes from Surat because the technique is a closely held secret of a few families there. The NFDDC, a unit of the Defence Research and Development Organisation in Hyderabad, is now working on how to draw wire from silver. Nagaraj said: "If this project is successful, we will not have to depend on Surat for silver wire. This will bring down costs." According to Nagaraj, the future of the silk industry is not clear. It is certain that it cannot continue the same way. It has to adapt to the changing consumer preferences and attitudes. The industry, he says, has to diversify and move to value-added products, particularly as the use of silk sari is falling. Until now the silk sari has not been duplicated by the powerlooms due to its uniqueness, but soon that may also happen and the industry should be geared to take on the powerlooms as well.

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