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Egypt Country Guide

In the 5th century BC Herodotus wrote of Egypt that nowhere are there so many marvellous things...nor in the world besides are to be seen so many things of unspeakable greatness - and not too much has changed. The Sphinx, the Nile, ancient Luxor, the pyramids - Egypts scope is glorious. Its not just the Pharaonic monuments that have drawn travellers to this country since long before the birth of Christ - its the legacy of the Greeks, Romans and early Christians, and the profusion of art and architecture accumulated from centuries of successive Islamic dynasties.

Marsa Matruh

MEDITERRANEAN SEA
Alexandria Damanhur Port Said
Suez Canal

ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES JORDAN

Mansura Cairo Giza Siwa Beni Suef Minya

Suez

Sinai Peninsula SAUDI ARABIA

Hurghada (Al-Ghardaka) Safaga
ve Ri

Ni le

LIBYA

WESTERN (L I B Y A N) DESERT

Luxor Marsa Alam Aswan

RE

Al-Quseir

D SE A
Berenice

Lake Nasser
Abu Simbel

SUDAN

2 | Egypt Country Guide / Facts & Figures

Facts & Figures

Capital city: Cairo Population: 76000000 Area: 1001449 sq km Timezone: GMT/UTC +2 Daylight Savings Starts: last Friday in April Ends: last Thursday in September Weights & Measures: metric Country dialling code: 20 Dialling out: 00 President: Mohammed Hosni Mubarak Prime Minister: Ahmed Mohamed Nazif Government type: Republic Electricity: 220V/50Hz Telephone adaptor type: French Egyptians use French and Turkish phone adaptors. The French jack has a protruding wing on one side shaped like a T. The opposite side has the same shape inverted. The Turkish adaptor looks like a lollipop with three male rounded pins protruding from one side. Both adaptors are fitted with a female RJ-11 socket at one end.

Breakout box

The Great Sphinx, Giza

Geography
Hacking a whopping square chunk out of Africas northeast corner, Egypt stretches over more than a million square kilometres (386,102 sq mi). More than 94% of the land area is barren desert, which has induced 90% of the population to squish into just 3% of the total land area, the fertile Nile Valley and Delta. Egypt borders Libya in the west, Sudan in the south, the Mediterranean Sea in the north, and the Red Sea and Israel in the east. The eastern region, across the Suez Canal, is Sinai. This region slopes up to the high mountains of Mt Katherine (Gebel Katarina at

2642m/8666ft is Egypts highest point) and Mt Sinai. Along Egypts Mediterranean coast there are countless white-sand beaches, many developed as tourist resorts but some still pristine and isolated. North of Cairo the Nile splits into a series of tributaries that flow into the Mediterranean.

Currency symbol: E Currency unit: pound Major industries: Oil and gas, metals, tourism, agriculture (especially cotton), Suez Canal revenues Trading partners: USA, EU, Middle East

Society
People: Egyptians, Berbers, Bedouin, Hamitic Arabs and Nubians Official language: Arabic Religion 94% Muslim, 6% Christian

Money
Egypt is terrific value. It is possible to spend as little as US$20 a day if youre prepared to stay in the cheapest hotels and hostels, eat local vendors food, limit yourself to one historic site a day and travel on packed third-class trains. The major expense for the traveller in Egypt is private transport and site entry - entry to the Egyptian Museum and Royal Mummy Room in Cairo costs a staggering US$25, and a complete visit to the Giza Pyramids costs around US$50. Alcohol

Economy
Currency code: EGP Currency name: Egyptian Pound

prices are also high, particularly spirits and imported wines. A more sensible daily budget, allowing for restaurant meals, site admissions and transport, is around US$50, but you could easily spend much more. A service charge of 12% applies in restaurants and hotels, and a sales tax of 5-7% is also levied. Additionally, you might find yourself paying a further 1-4% tax on upper-end accommodation, so it is possible to find that a 23% tax has been added to the price youve been quoted for a mid-range or top-end hotel room. Bargaining is a part of life in Egypt and virtually everything is open to negotiation. This includes your room for the night, your lunchtime roadside snack and the felucca you ride down the Nile in. The few rules to observe in the bazaars are these: never offer a price that youre not prepared to pay, get a feel for the real price

3 | Egypt Country Guide/ Before You Go

> Litre of petrol > Small bottle of imported beer > Souvenir t-shirt > Street snack (fuul or taamiyya sandwich) > Metro ticket > Airconditioned bus ticket in Cairo > Litre of petrol

E1.35 E6 E40 E2 E1 E2 E5

relative coSt (roomS)

> Low > Mid > High > Deluxe E15-120 E120-400 E400-600 E600+

especially for the US dollar, but if youre keen to squeeze out the last piastre, then the forex bureaus generally offer slightly better rates than the banks, and usually dont charge commission. Most hard currencies can be changed in Egypt, though US dollars and euros are best. Travellers cheques can be exchanged at major banks, and Amex and Thomas Cook travellers cheques can also be cashed at their offices, found in Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor, Aswan, Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh.

money tipS
Be aware that pickpockets operate around tourist sites, so avoid carrying money in your back pocket. Small change can be frustratingly hard to come by in Egypt and it can often be hard to change the large denomination notes doled out by the ATM. Use big notes at upscale places like hotels and stockpile your change for small purchases and baksheesh (tips).

relative coSt (mealS)

> Low > Mid > High > Deluxe E5-15 E15-30 E30-75 E75+

preferred form of money

A policeman on his camel, Cairo

before you begin haggling, take your time and enjoy the friendly sport of it (which might include a cup of tea from the vendor), and remember that youre never obliged to buy anything - you wont offend anyone. Currency notes The Egyptian is divided into 100 piastres (pt). The 50pt, E1, E5, E10, E20, E50 and E100 notes are used widely. The old 5, 10 and 25 piastre notes are rarely spotted these days. Currency coins In theory, coins in circulation are for denominations of 10pt, 20pt, 25pt, 50pt and E1, but theyre practically collectors items.

Sample priceS
> Small bottle of water > Movie ticket > Short taxi ride > Meal in a cheap restaurant > Cup of coffee > Average museum admission E1.50 E20 E2 E15 E2 E20

Its possible to travel in Egypt relying solely on plastic as ATMs become more and more widespread, especially in tourist-friendly cities such as Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor, Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada. Most ATMs are compatible with Visa, MasterCard and any Cirrus or Plus cards. Credit cards such as Amex, Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted in foreignfriendly hotels, shops and restaurants, though away from tourist areas they are less useful. In many places you will be charged a percentage of the sale (anywhere between 3% and 10%) to use them. Visa and MasterCard can be used for cash advances at Banque Misr and the National Bank of Egypt, as well as at Thomas Cook offices. Well-known brands of travellers cheques will be honoured everywhere, although having travellers cheques in US dollars or UK pounds will prove the most hassle-free. It also pays to carry a modest stash of US dollars in cash for emergencies.

tipping
Tipping in Egypt is called baksheesh, small amounts of money handed to people for just about any service rendered. For travellers who are not used to continual tipping, demands for baksheesh for doing anything from opening doors to pointing out the obvious in museums can be quite irritating. But it is the accepted way in Egypt. Just use your discretion, always remembering that more things warrant baksheesh here than anywhere in the West. In hotels and restaurants, a 12% service charge is included at the bottom of the bill. However, since the money goes into the till, its necessary to leave an additional tip for the waiter, usually 10% to 20%. Services such as opening a door, delivering room service or carrying your bags warrant at least E1. Carrying lots of small change will make the baksheesh process easier.

coasts, and to a lesser degree in Cairo. Hotel prices reflect this. Weather-wise, June to August is unbearable almost anywhere south of Cairo, especially around Luxor and Aswan, where daytime temperatures soar up to 40C. Summer in Cairo is almost as hot, and the combination of heat, dust, pollution, noise and crush makes walking the city streets a real test of endurance. On the other hand, a scorching sun might be exactly whats wanted for a week or two of slow roasting on the beaches of southern Sinai, the Alexandrian coast or the Red Sea - just be prepared to fight for hotel rooms with locals on their summer holidays and Gulf Arabs escaping the even greater heat in their home countries. When visiting somewhere such as Luxor, winter is easily the most comfortable time. Cairo isnt quite as pleasant, with often overcast skies and chilly evenings, while up on the Mediterranean coast Alexandria is subject to frequent downpours resulting in flooded, muddy streets. Even Sinais beaches are a little too chilly for sunbathing in January. The happiest compromise for an all-Egypt trip is to visit in spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November). Throughout Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting, many cafes and restaurants are closed during the day, while bars cease business completely for the duration. Offices also operate at reduced and very erratic hours.

viSaS overvieW
All visitors to Egypt, except nationals of Malta, South Africa and Zimbabwe are required to have a visa and a passport (which must be valid at least one week beyond period of intended stay). Visas can be arranged through Egyptian embassies worldwide. Visitors from the US, Canada, EU and Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries may be able to purchase a visa stamp upon arrival at many large airports if the visit is for tourist purposes. One-month visitors visas can be extended. Military permits issued by either the Ministry of Interior or Border Police are needed to travel in the Eastern Desert south of Shams Allam (50km south of Marsa Allam), on or around Lake Nasser, off-road in the Western Desert and on the road between the oases of Bahariyya and Siwa. These can be obtained through a safari

Before You Go
When to go
The best time to visit Egypt depends on where you want to go. Generally speaking, winter (December to February) is the tourist high season and summer (June to August) is the low season in all parts of the country except on the

changing your money

Money can be officially changed at Amex and Thomas Cook offices, as well as commercial banks, foreign exchange (forex) bureaus and some hotels. Rates dont tend to vary much,

4 | Egypt Country Guide/ Transport

company or travel agency at least a fortnight in advance of the trip.

cuStomS overvieW
Sometimes the Customs Declaration Form D is given to arriving tourists to list all cameras, jewellery, cash, travellers cheques and electronics (personal stereos, computers, radios, VCRs etc). No-one seems to be asked for this form on departure, and few tourists are given it on arrival. Travellers are, however, regularly asked to declare their video cameras and some have reported being hit with a hefty import tax. There are prohibited and restricted articles, including books, printed matter, motion pictures, photographs and materials that the government considers subversive or constituting a national risk or incompatible with the public interest. Articles for espionage, or intelligence activities, and explosives are banned.

another 3L of alcohol plus a wide range of other duty-free articles, but this must be done within 24 hours of arrival at one of the special Egypt Free shops in the arrival and departure areas of the airport.

Transport
getting there and aWay
There is a variety of options for getting to Egypt, with good connections between Cairo and many European cities. Bargain holiday packages including hotel vouchers can work out cheaper than booking a flight independently, and you can just chuck the vouchers away if resorts arent your style. Flights from elsewhere can be expensive and its worth looking at making your way to Egypt via Europe, as this is often a cheaper option than flying direct. Egypts national air carrier is EgyptAir. Most travellers come into Egypt through Cairo, although people are increasingly disembarking at Alexandria, Luxor, Aswan, Hurghada (AlGhardaka), Marsa Alam and Sharm el-Sheikh. These airports are serviced by a number of

smaller carriers and charter companies with direct connections to Europe. Other connections from elsewhere in Africa and the Middle East include the bus from Israel via the Gulf of Aqaba or the southern edge of the Gaza Strip, and ferries from Jordan, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait.

getting around
Egypt has a very good system of public and private transport. Domestic air travel is clearly the quickest way to get around and flights are surprisingly cheap if youre short on time. Otherwise the transport options include buses, trains and boats, and even camels, donkeys and horses. If youre claustrophobic or have a weak stomach you might be uncomfortable travelling on the buses and trains, but they are a great way to meet local people and get a feel for the culture. Buses serve virtually every town in Egypt and the 5000km (3100mi) of rail also connects just about every town in the country from Aswan to Alexandria. You can also hire service taxis that shunt car-loads of passengers between towns and cities. These vehicles are traditionally Peugeot 504s, however Toyota minibuses are becoming popular as service taxis or microbuses, and they usually congregate at the train and bus stations. The drivers wait until theyre full (very full!) before they budge. If you want to join the throng and drive yourself, cars can easily be hired from hotels and airports in most Egyptian towns. Not recommended for the fainthearted.

is well established (several months to years after exposure), and damage to internal organs is irreversible. Avoid swimming or bathing in freshwater where bilharzia is present. Even deep water can be infected. If you do get wet, dry off quickly and dry your clothes as well. A blood test is the most reliable test, but it will not show positive until a number of weeks after exposure.

malaria
This serious and potentially fatal disease is spread by mosquito bites. If you are travelling in endemic areas it is extremely important to avoid mosquito bites and to take tablets to prevent this disease. Symptoms range from fever, chills and sweating, headache, diarrhoea and abdominal pains to a vague feeling of ill-health. Seek medical help immediately if malaria is suspected. Without treatment malaria can rapidly become more serious and can be fatal. If medical care is not available, malaria tablets can be used for treatment. You should seek medical advice, before you travel, on the right medication and dosage for you. If you do contract malaria, be sure to be retested for malaria once you return home as you can harbour malaria parasites in your body even if you are symptom free. Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites at all times. The main messages are: wear light-coloured clothing; wear long trousers and long-sleeved shirts; use mosquito repellents containing the compound DEET on exposed areas (prolonged overuse of DEET may be harmful, especially to children, but its use is considered preferable to being bitten by diseasetransmitting mosquitoes); avoid perfumes and aftershave. Use a mosquito net impregnated with mosquito repellent (permethrin) - it may be worth taking your own.

duty free
The duty-free limit on arrival is 1L of alcohol, 1L of perfume, 200 cigarettes and 25 cigars. On top of that, once in the country, you can buy

Health & Safety

SchiStoSomiaSiS (bilharzia)
Also known as bilharzia, this disease is carried in freshwater by tiny worms that enter through the skin and attach themselves to the intestines or bladder. The first symptom may be tingling and sometimes a light rash around the area where the worm entered. Weeks later, a high fever may develop. A general unwell feeling may be the first symptom, or there may be no symptoms. Once the disease is established, abdominal pain and blood in the urine are other signs. The infection often causes no symptoms until the disease
The spectacular Siwa Oasis

yelloW fever
A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age coming from infected areas. The vaccine against yellow fever is effective. Yellow fever is transmitted through the bite of an infected mosquito. Symptoms of yellow fever range from a mild fever which resolves over a few days to more serious forms

5 | Egypt Country Guide/ Events

with fever, headache, muscle pains, abdominal pain and vomiting. This can progress to bleeding, shock and liver and kidney failure. The liver failure causes jaundice, or yellowing of your skin and the whites of your eyes - hence the name. Theres no specific treatment but you should seek medical help urgently if you think you have yellow fever.

pilgrimage (haj) at least once in a lifetime. Streets are decorated with coloured lights and children play in their best clothes. The ritual of Mahmal is performed in each village as passing pilgrims are given carpets and shrouds to take on their journey. > New Years Day (official holiday) 1 Jan Official national holiday but many businesses stay open. > Coptic Christmas (official holiday) Jan Coptic Christmas is a fairly low-key affair and only Coptic businesses are closed for the day. > Coptic Easter (official holiday) March/April The most important date on the Coptic calendar although it doesnt significantly affect daily life for the majority of the population. > Sham an-Nessim (official holiday) March/April A Coptic holiday with Pharaonic origins, it literally means smell of the breeze. It falls on the first Monday after Coptic Easter and is celebrated by all Egyptians, with family picnics and outings. > Sinai Liberation Day (official holiday) 25 April Holiday celebrating Israels return of Sinai in 1982 (Sinai only). > May Day (official holiday) May Official national holiday. > Liberation Day (official holiday) 18 June

Events
The Islamic (or Hejira) calendar is a full 11 days shorter than the Gregorian (Western) calendar, so public holidays and festivals fall 11 days earlier each year. Ras as-Sana is the celebration of the new Islamic year, and Moulid an-Nabi celebrates the Prophet Mohammeds birthday around May. These celebrations include parades in the city streets, with lights, feasts, drummers and special sweets. Ramadan is celebrated during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. It was during this month that the Quran was revealed to Mohammed, and out of deference the faithful take neither food nor water until after sunset each day. At the end of Ramadan (Eid al-Fitr) the fasting breaks with much celebration and gaiety. Eid al-Adha is the time of the pilgrimage to Mecca, and each Muslim is expected to make the

> Revolution Day (official holiday) 23 July Official national holiday commemorating the date of the 1952 coup, when the Free Officers seized power from the puppet monarchy. > Wafaa el-Nil (official holiday) 15 August Literally the flooding of the Nile > Coptic New Year (official holiday) 11 September > Armed Forces Day (official holiday) 6 October Official national holiday celebrating Egyptian successes during the 1973 war with Israel. The day is marked by military parades and air displays and a long speech by the president. > Suez Victory Day (official holiday) 24 October Celebrates popular resistance during the 1973 Yom Kippur War. > Victory Day (official holiday) 23 December Celebrates the end of the Suez crisis in 1956. > Ras as-Sana (official holiday) varies according to Islamic calendar > Islamic New Years Day. The entire country has the day off but celebrations are low-key. > Moulid an-Nabi (official holiday) varies according to Islamic calendar. This is the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed. One of the major holidays of the year, the streets are a feast of lights and food.

made inroads on traditional culture. But, for the majority fellaheen (peasant farmers) population, the fatalism that has helped them survive for centuries, despite poverty and political turmoil, remains strong. This doesnt seem to stop music, art and writing from thriving, however.

hiStory pre-20th century

The Niles fertile banks - the source of economic, social, political and religious life - gave birth to the worlds first nation state and a powerful civilisation that invented writing and erected the first stone monuments. Around 5000 years ago the independent riverfront states were unified under Narmer, giving rise to the first dynasty of pharaohs. The pharaohs were considered divine and they ruled over a highly stratified society. The first pyramid was built in the 27th century BC; over the next 500 years the monuments grew increasingly grand. Monarchical power was at its greatest during the 4th dynasty, when Khufu, Khafre and Mycerinus built the Pyramids of Giza. Through the 6th and 7th dynasties power was diffused and small principalities began to appear. A second capital at Heracleopolis (near presentday Beni Suef) was established and Egypt plunged into civil war. An independent kingdom was established at Thebes (present-day Luxor) and, under Montuhotep II, Egypt again came under the control of a single pharaoh. From 1550 to 1069 BC, the New Kingdom bloomed under rulers such as Tuthmosis I, the first pharaoh to be entombed in the Valley of the Kings, his daughter Hatshepsut, one of Egypts few female pharaohs, and Tuthmosis III, Egypts greatest conqueror. Amenhotep IV renounced the teachings of the priesthood, took on the title of Akhenaten in honour of Aten, the disc of the rising sun, and established a new capital called Akhetaten devoted solely to the new god. Soon thereafter, Egypt was ruled by generals: Ramses I, II and III, and Seti I. They built massive monuments and temples, but following their reigns the empire was in disarray, allowing the Macedonian conqueror Alexander the Great to arrive in 331 BC and establish a new capital. Under Ptolemy I, Alexandria became a great city. The Ptolemies ruled Egypt for 300 years, but their reign was plagued by great rivalries

Weather
Egypts climate is hot and dry most of the year. During the winter months - December, January and February - average daily temperatures stay up around 20C (68F) on the Mediterranean coast and a pleasant 26C (80F) in Aswan. Maximum temperatures get to 31C (88F) and 50C (122F) respectively. Winter nights only get down to 8C (45F), a very Egyptian version of chilly. Alexandria receives the most rain, with 19cm (7.5in) each year, while Aswan is almost bone-dry with just 2mm annually. Between March and April the khamsin blows in from the Western Desert at up to 150kmph (93mph).

History
Until very recently, Egyptian life and lifestyle has remained as it had been for hundreds of years. However, 21st century commercialism, tourism, satellite TV and urban migration have
The Temple of Khnum in Esna

6 | Egypt Country Guide/ History

amongst the nobles. Meanwhile, an expanded Roman Empire began taking an interest in Egypt. Between 51 and 48 BC, Egypt was ruled by Ptolemy XIII and his sister Cleopatra VII, and Julius Caesar sent his rival, Pompey, from Rome to watch over them. Ptolemy had Pompey killed and banished Cleopatra. Caesar came along, threw Ptolemy into the Nile, appointed another of Cleopatras brothers, Ptolemy XIV, as joint leader, and became Cleopatras lover. In 47 BC Cleopatra gave birth to Caesars son and two years later had her brother killed. When Caesar was assassinated the following year, Mark Antony - one of the new ruling triumvirate - came to Egypt and fell in love with Cleopatra. An unhappy Roman senate sent Octavian to deal with Marc Antony 10 years later. Following the defeat of their naval forces at the Battle of Actium in 31 BC, Antony and Cleopatra committed suicide, after which Egypt became part of the Roman Empire. When the empire fell apart Nubians, North Africans and Persians invaded, although Egypt remained relatively stable until AD 640 when the Arabs arrived, bringing Islam. They established Fustat (on the site of present-day Cairo) as the seat of an unstable government until the Fatimids took power, building the prosperous city of Al-Qahira (Cairo). Western European Christians seized much

of the weakening empire in the Crusades of the 11th century, but in 1187 the Syrian-based Seljuks sent an army into Egypt and Salah ad-Din (Saladin) fortified Cairo and expelled the Crusaders from Jerusalem. Salah ad-Din enlisted Mamluks (Turkish mercenaries), but they ended up overthrowing his dynasty and ruled for two and a half centuries before Egypt fell to the Turks in 1517. Since most of the Mamluks were of Turkish descent, the Turkish Ottoman sultans, based in Constantinople, largely left them alone, as long as they paid their taxes. This state of affairs continued until Napoleon invaded in 1798, only to be ousted by the British in 1801; they were in turn expelled by Mohammed Ali, a lieutenant in the Albanian contingent of the Ottoman army. Said Pasha, Alis grandson, opened the Suez Canal in 1869.

Periodic attacks on tourists resumed in Sinai in 2005 and 2006 but are generally assumed to be one-off events rather than a sustained terrorist campaign, and Egypt remains relatively stable.
over from Nasser when he died in 1970, and set about improving relations with the West. On 6 October 1973, the Jewish holiday of Yom Kippur, Egypt launched a surprise attack on the Israeli occupiers of Sinai. Its army initially beat back the much better armed Israelis; although these initial gains were later reversed, the ceasefire agreement favoured Egyptian interests. In 1977 Sadat began making peace with Israel, leading to the 1978 Camp David Agreement. Israel agreed to withdraw from Sinai, and Egypt officially recognised Israel. Many in the Arab world felt Sadat had betrayed them, and he was assassinated on 6 October 1981. Hosni Mubarak, Sadats vice president, was sworn in and has been the countrys leader ever since. Mubarak has surprised many with his deft political footwork in the troubled region, improving relations with Israel and other Arab states. With the rise of fundamentalism in the Arab world, Mubaraks position has at times been precarious and he has suffered numerous attempts on his life. He sent 35,000 troops to fight against Iraq in the Gulf War, and although the war was seen as Western imperialists fighting Arabs, Egypts commitment proved useful in improving its relations with the West. In 1992 Islamic fundamentalists began a campaign of violence and intimidation against tourists and Egyptian security forces. The mid-1990s were characterised by tensions with Sudan over the contested Halaib territory, severe flooding in 1994 and a series of conflicts with fundamentalists culminating in an assassination attempt on President Mubarak in 1995. In 1997, the massacre of more than 70 people, most of them tourists, by Islamic militants shocked Egyptians and caused thousands worldwide to rethink their holiday plans. The subsequent government crackdown contained further trouble but a rapidly growing population, coupled with high unemployment and increasing poverty undermined economic and social reforms.

hiStory recent
President Hosni Mubarak was elected to serve his fifth term as president in Egypts first contested presidential race in 2005. Although he won by a large margin, allegations of voting irregularities and heavy-handed policing have contributed to ongoing criticism that Egypt is far from democratic. Periodic attacks on tourists resumed in Sinai in 2005 and 2006 but are generally assumed to be one-off events rather than a sustained terrorist campaign, and Egypt remains relatively stable. A growing worry for the future is who will succeed the aging president and whether or not this successor can continue to withstand the intense economic pressure and regional instability.

modern hiStory
Crippling national debt enabled British and French controllers to install themselves in 1879, and the British terminated the suzerainty that Turkey had over Egypt. During WWI Egypt aligned itself with the Allies, and afterwards the British allowed the formation of a national political party - the Wafd. King Fuad I was elected head of the constitutional monarchy and for the next 30 years the British, the monarchists and the Wafdists jockeyed for power. The Arab League was founded after WWII by seven Arab countries, including Egypt, but the war had left Egypt in a shambles, and its defeat in Israels 1948 War of Independence saw the chaos escalate. In 1952 a group of dissident military officers, led by Colonel Gamal Abdel Nasser, orchestrated a bloodless coup. The British and French were loathe to relinquish control, so they invaded. The USA and the Soviet Union joined the United Nations-deployed peacekeepers and insisted that the invaders should leave. Nasser became a hero, particularly among Arabs. Nasser attempted to unite Egypt, Syria, Yemen and later Iraq in the late 1950s, emphasising Arab unity and demonising Israel. Following months of heightening tension between Egypt and Israel, the Jewish state attacked on 5 June 1967, starting the Six Day War. Israel destroyed the Egyptian air force, captured Sinai and closed the Suez Canal. Anwar Sadat, Nassers vice president, took

Places to Visit
cairo
Lets address the drawbacks first. The crowds on a Cairo footpath can make Manhattan look like a ghost town. Youll be hounded by papyrus sellers at every turn, and your life will flash before your eyes each time you venture across a street. But thats a small price to pay to visit the city Cairenes call Umm ad-Dunya the mother of the world. This city has an energy, palpable even at three in the morning, like no other on the planet. Its the product of 20 million inhabitants waging a battle against the encroaching desert sands, and of 20 million people simultaneously lifting the citys spirit with their uncommon graciousness and humour. One taxi ride can span millennia, from the resplendent mosques and mausoleums built at the pinnacle of the Islamic empire to the 19th-century palaces and grand avenues (which earned the city the nickname Paris on the Nile), then all the way back to the days of the pharaohs, as the pyramids of Giza hulk on the western edge of the city. The architectural jumble is smoothed over by an even coating of beige sand, which acts as a social equalizer: everyone, no matter how rich, gets dusty when the spring khamsin wind blows in. So take a deep breath, crack a joke and learn to look beneath the layers of dust and history to see the citys true colours. If you love Cairo, she will love you back.

Passing the time of day

7 | Egypt Country Guide/ Places to Visit

KHAN AL-KHALILI MARKET

Islamic Cairo Opening hours: early morning to sundown (except Friday morning and Sunday)
Though theres no ignoring the flotillas of tour buses parked on the square, and all the touts and tat that come with them, its worth remembering that Cairenes have plied their trades in this atmospheric rabbit-warren market since the khan was built in the 14th century, and parts of the market, such as the gold district, are still the first choice for thousands of locals to do business. The agglomeration of shops many arranged around small courtyards, in original medieval minimall layout stock everything from soap powder to semiprecious stones, not to mention a surfeit of stuffed toy camels and alabaster pyramids. NILOMETER

The central courtyard is the earliest part, while, from south to north, the three minarets date from the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries; the latter, with its double finial, was added by Sultanal-Ghouri, whose mosque and mausoleum stand nearby. The tomb chamber, located through a doorway on the left just inside the entrance, has a beautiful mihrab (a niche indicating the direction of Mecca) that really shouldnt be missed. PYRAMIDS OF GIzA

Giza Plateau
A visit to Cairo wouldnt be complete without a trip out to neighbouring Giza, to stand in the shadow of the Pyramids, some of the planets best-loved monuments. The mighty pyramids of Cheops, Khafre and Menkaure were massive tombs constructed, on the orders of the pharaohs, by teams of workers tens-of-thousands strong. Cheops (adult/student E100/50), the oldest and largest, is open for exploration, and though there isnt much to see inside the pyramid, the experience of climbing through the ancient structure is unforgettable. Claustrophobics, however, should content themselves with a stroll across the Giza plateau (adult/student E50/25; 7.30am-4pm) to see the enigmatic, eponymous smile of the Sphinx instead.

necropolis, backed by the enigmatic Theban escarpment. Scattered across the landscape is an embarrassment of riches, from the temples of Karnak and Luxor on the East Bank to the temples of Deir al-Bahri and Medinat Habu, the Colossi of Memnon and the Valley of the Kings. Thebes wealth and power was legendary in antiquity, its god, Amun, feared across the Mediterranean and Asia. By the late 18th century, its legend had lured travellers from Europe. Since then, fuelled by tales of treasure and pharaohs curses, huge numbers have made pilgrimages here. Todays visitor risks being surrounded by coach-loads of tourists as they are herded through tombs and temples at a furious pace. But, with a little planning and flexibility, the crowds can be avoided and the magic of the Theban landscape and its unparalleled archaeological heritage can be enjoyed in perfect Pharaonic peace. TEMPLES OF KARNAK

pylons and obelisks, dedicated to the Theban gods and the greater glory of pharaohs. Everything is on a gigantic scale: the site covers over 2 sq km, large enough to contain about 10 cathedrals, while its main structure, the Temple of Amun, is the largest religious building ever built. This was where the god lived on earth, surrounded by the houses of his wife, Mut, and their son, Khonsu, two other vast temple complexes on this jaw-dropping site. LuxOR MuSEuM %238 0269

Corniche an-Nil Admission: adult/student E70/35 Opening hours: 9am-9pm Oct-Apr, 9am-1pm & 510pm May-Sep
This wonderful museum sports a beautifully displayed collection, ranging from the ancient Old Kingdom right through to the Mamluk period, mostly gathered from the Theban temples and necropolis. The ground-floor gallery is home to several masterpieces, including a well-preserved limestone relief of Tuthmosis III, an exquisitely carved statue of Tuthmosis III from the Temple of Karnak, an alabaster figure of Amenhotep III protected by the great crocodile

Sharia al-Malek as-Salih, Rhoda Admission: E10 Opening hours: 10am-5pm

Built in AD 861, Cairos Nilometer was designed to measure the rise and fall of the river, and thus predict the fortunes of the annual harvest. If the water rose to 16 cubits (a cubit is about the length of a forearm) the harvest was likely to be good, inspiring one of the greatest celebrations of the medieval era; any higher, though, and the flooding could be disastrous. Lower levels presaged hunger. The Turkish-style pencil-point dome is a Farouk-era reconstruction of an earlier one wrecked by Napoleons troops. The measuring device itself, a graduated column, sits below the level of the Nile at the bottom of a flight of precipitous steps, which the guard will cheerfully let you descend for a little baksheesh (tip). AL-AzHAR MOSquE

Sharia al-Karnak Admission: adult/student E50/25 Opening hours: 6am-5.30pm Oct-Apr, to 6pm MaySep
More than simply a temple, Karnak is an extraordinary complex of sanctuaries, kiosks,

luXor
Royal Thebes, Egyptian treasure-house of countless wealth, Who boasts her hundred gates, through each of which, With horse and car, two hundred warriors march.

Homer, The Iliad, Book IX

The citys governor claims that Luxor is the worlds greatest open-air museum, but that doesnt come close to describing this amazing place: theres simply nothing like the grandeur of ancient Thebes. Florence Nightingale called it the deathbed of the world and likened it to the writings of Shakespeare. Its one of the few places in the world that deserves to be called unforgettable. Although the modern East Bank city has grown rapidly in recent years, the setting is still breathtakingly beautiful, the Nile flowing between the modern town and the West Bank
The El Corniche waterfront. Alexandria

Sharia al-Azhar Opening hours: 24hr

Founded in AD 970 as the centrepiece of the newly created Fatimid city, Al-Azhar Mosque is one of Cairos earliest mosques, a harmonious blend of architectural styles, the result of numerous enlargements over a thousand years.

8 | Egypt Country Guide/ Places to Visit

god Sobek and, one of the few examples of Old Kingdom art found at Thebes, a relief of Unasankh, found in his tomb on the West Bank. LuxOR TEMPLE

Corniche an-Nil Admission: adult/student E40/20 Opening hours: 6am-9pm Oct-Apr, to 10pm May-Sep
Largely built by the pharaohs Amenhotep III (13801352 BC) and Ramses II (12791213 BC), this temple is a graceful monument at the heart of the modern town. Visit during the day, but return at night when the temple is illuminated, creating an eerie spectacle as shadow and light play off the reliefs and colonnades. Also known as the Southern Sanctuary, the temple was added to over the centuries by Tutankhamun, Ramses II, Alexander the Great and various Romans, who constructed a military fort around the temple that the Arabs later called Al-Uqsur (the Fortifications), thus giving modern Luxor its name. COLOSSI OF MEMNON The two faceless Colossi of Memnon that rise majestically about 18m from the Nile-side plain are the first monuments tourists see when they visit Luxors West Bank. The enthroned figures have kept a lonely vigil on the changing landscape, and few visitors have any idea that these giants were only a tiny element of the largest temple ever built in Egypt, Amenhotep IIIs memorial temple, believed to have covered an area larger than Karnak itself. The magnificent colossi, each cut from a single block of stone and weighing 1000 tons, were already a great tourist attraction during Graeco-Roman times, and remain a tantalising peek into the past. VALLEY OF THE KINGS

a unique Nubian-influenced local culture, it is a fascinating and relaxing place to spend time. South of Aswan, the land is dominated by the High Dam and its offspring, Lake Nasser, the worlds largest artificial lake. Remarkable monuments that would have been lost to the lakes waters now stand grouped on its shores and can be visited by boat. Most southerly and spectacular of all is the Great Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel, one of ancient Egypts most awesome structures and a highlight of any visit. ESNA

ASWAN

pop 1.18 million

Laid-back and pleasant, Aswan is the perfect place to linger for a few days, rest the eyes and the mind, and recover from the rigours of travelling along the Nile. The river is wide, languorous and stunning here, flowing gently down from Lake Nasser around dramatic blackgranite boulders and palm-studded islands. With so long a history, there is plenty to see in Aswan, but somehow the sightseeing seems less urgent and certainly less overwhelming than, say, Luxor, allowing more time to take in the magic of the Nile at sunset or stroll in the exotic souq, one of the best outside Cairo. TEMPLES OF ABu SIMBEL

pop 71,588
Most visitors come to Esna, 54km south of Luxor on the West Bank of the Nile, for the Roman Temple of Khnum (adult/student E15/10; 6am-4pm Oct-May, to 5pm Jun-Sep), but the busy little farming town itself is quite charming. Beyond the small bazaar selling mainly tourist souvenirs are several examples of 19thcentury provincial architecture with elaborate mashrabiyya (ornate carved wooden screens) and a beautiful caravanserai southwest of the temple. An old oil mill, in the covered souq east of the temple, presses lettuce seed into oil, a powerful aphrodisiac since ancient times. Until the early 20th century, Esna was an important stop on the camel caravan route between Sudan and Cairo, and between the Western Desert oases and the Nile Valley. EDFu

Al-Azhar mosque, Cairo

other, including the tomb of that famed boyking, Tutankhamun. Though its a spot on every tourists itinerary, the Valley of the Kings has lost none of the enigmatic magic that has brought awestruck archaeologists, treasure hunters and visitors here for generations.

Admission: adult/student E80/40 Opening hours: 6am-5pm Oct-Apr, to 6pm May-Sep

The small, relaxed village of Abu Simbel lies 280km south of Aswan and only 40km north of the Sudanese border, and not many tourists linger more than the few hours needed to visit the colossal temples for which the village is famous. Over the centuries both the Nile and the desert sands imperceptibly shifted, and Abu Simbels star, the Great Temple of Ramses II, was lost to the world until 1813, when the Swiss explorer Jean Louis Burckhardt rediscovered it by chance. Enough sand was cleared away in 1817 by Giovanni Belzoni for the temple to finally be entered, and its beauty revealed to the world once again.

loWer nile valley

Where northern Upper Egypt is dominated by fast-growing cities and political problems, the country south of Luxor is both harder and calmer. The Nile is increasingly hemmed in by the desert, its banks lined with well-preserved Graeco-Roman temples at Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo, its lush fields punctuated by palmbacked villages this is the perfect place to glide through on a Nile sailing boat. Al-Kab provides the perfect contrast to the grandeur of the temples, for this once-great city has almost completely disappeared. Beyond Edfu the ribbon of cultivation on the Niles east bank gives way to the Eastern (Arabian) Desert, while at Gebel Silsila, 145km south of Luxor, the river passes through a gorge, once thought to mark a cataract. Aswan, meanwhile, may be the regional capital and administrative centre, but this ancient ivory-trading post has a laid-back atmosphere that sets it apart from other tourist centres in Egypt. With the Nubia Museum, ancient remains, a vibrant souq (market), beautiful gardens and

pop 72,979
Built on a rise above the broad river valley, the Temple of Horus (adult/student E40/20; 7am-7pm Oct-May, to 8pm Jun-Sep) at Edfu, having escaped destruction from Nile floods, is the most completely preserved of all Egyptian temples. One of the last ancient attempts at building on a grand scale, the temple dominates this otherwise sleepy town, 53km south of Esna. The temples well-preserved reliefs have provided archaeologists with much valuable information about temple rituals and the power of the priesthood. Walking through the large gloomy chambers, its impossible not to be overwhelmed by a sense of awe at the mysteries of ancient Egypt.

WeStern deSert
Cairo may have its pyramids and Luxor its temple, but this is the desert of deserts, an unfathomable natural wonder unlike any other. Egypts Western Desert stretches from the Nile and the Mediterranean to the Sudanese and Libyan borders, rolling far into Africa, oblivious to any lines drawn on the map. The Great Sand Sea starts here, a formidable khaki ocean undulating with some of the largest sand dunes on earth. This desolate region is punctuated with five major oases boasting freshwater sources and supporting islands of verdant greenery. The valley floors lie speckled with crumbling Roman forts, once towering

Wadi Biban al-Mulukn Admission: adult/student E70/35, three tombs excluding Ay & Tutankhamu
Windswept, bleak and lonely, the Valley of the Kings was once called the Great Necropolis of Millions of Years of Pharaoh, or the Place of Truth. The site consists of 63 magnificent royal tombs from the New Kingdom period (15501069 BC), all very different from each

9 | Egypt Country Guide/ Places to Visit

protectively over ancient caravan routes as they wound their way across the breadth of North Africa. Flourishing palm plantations engulf medieval towns, and its here that you will find the eerie rock formations of the White Desert, a dreamscape of eroded, snow-white pinnacles. Nearby you can explore the charred mountains of the Black Desert, and bathe in innumerable crystal-clear springs as they gush from the valley floor. Away from the popular desert-circuit road lies happily isolated Siwa, a tranquil paradise of springs and ancient ruins thickly carpeted with date palms. Not many travellers peel themselves away from the popular Nile Valley routes to make the dusty trip out west. Its a shame. Paved roads now connect the oases, and while travel in this region takes time, the Western Desert offers some of the most incredible scenery and photogenic journeys in all Egypt. DAKHLA OASIS

townships and allude to their less-tranquil past. The region has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with fossilised bones hinting at human habitation dating back 150,000 years and zebra, ostriches and elephants once wandering its now-barren reaches. The Romans, and later Christians, left their mark by building over older settlements, and todays stunning medieval-era fortified towns remain testaments to violent days of raids and plunder. AL-qASR

WHITE DESERT Upon first glimpse of the White Desert dreamscape, youll feel like a modern Alice fallen through the desert looking-glass. Blinding-white spires of rock reach for the sky, each frostcoloured lollipop licked into an ever odder shape by the dry desert winds. As you get further into the 300-sq-km White Desert Protectorate, youll notice that the surreal shapes start to take on familiar forms: chickens, ostriches, camels, hawks and other uncanny shapes abound. They are best viewed at sunrise or sunset, when the sun turns them hues of pink and orange, Salvador Dalilike, or under a full moon, which gives the landscape a ghostly, arctic, whippedcream appearance. SIWA OASIS

Itineraries
WhiStle-Stop nile tour
ONE TO TWO WEEKS/CAIRO TO ABu SIMBEL
MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Pyramids of Giza

CAIRO

Expected donation of up to E10

A must-see sight within Dakhla Oasis is the extraordinary medieval/Ottoman town of Al-Qasr, which lies at the foot of stunning pink limestone cliffs. Its an extraordinary place, thoughtfully restored to provide a glimpse of how other oasis towns once looked. Several hundred people still live in the town, whose winding lanes manage to remain cool in summer and protect their inhabitants from desert sandstorms. Entrances to old houses are marked by beautiful lintels (acacia beams situated above the door). Carved with the names of the carpenter and the owner of the house, the date and a verse from the Quran, these decorative touches are wonderfully preserved.

Nile

River

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West Bank

Luxor

SE A

pop 21,800
If, like most visitors to Siwa, youre driving the 300km south from the coast through the monotonously featureless and desolate desert, youll be rubbing your eyes thinking that your first sight of Siwa is an emerald mirage. Set against a backdrop of jagged sandstone hills, backed by the rolling silica ocean of the Great Sand Sea and carpeted thick with palm groves, this is easily the most captivating oasis in Egypt. An abundance of free-flowing freshwater springs support hundreds of thousands of olive and fruit trees and date palms, which also shade and cool the valleys mud-brick villages, as they rest deliciously concealed in the greenery. GREAT SAND SEA One of the worlds largest dune fields, the Great Sand Sea straddles Egypt and Libya, stretching over 800km south to the Gilf Kebir. A colossal 72,000 sq km, it contains some of the largest recorded dunes in the world, including one 140km long. Undulating and beautiful, the dunes have challenged desert travellers for hundreds of years. The Persian king Cambyses is thought to have lost an army here, while the WWII British Long Range Desert Group spent months trying to find a way through the impenetrable sands to launch surprise attacks on the German army. Aerial surveys have helped the charting of this vast expanse, but it remains one of the least-explored and most tantalising areas on earth
Abu Simbel

Aswan

Lake Nasser

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With more than a dozen fertile hamlets sprinkled along the Western Desert circuit road, Dakhla lives up to most visitors romantic oasis expectations. Lush palm groves and orchards support traditional villages, where imposing ancient mud-brick forts still stand guard over the

On a punishing schedule, one to two weeks is just enough time to traverse the length of the Nile Valley and see some of Egypts most famous sights. Starting in Cairo, two days in the capital will allow you to see the astounding Pyramids of Giza, seek out the treasures in the Egyptian Museum and shop till you drop in Khan al-Khalili. Catch the overnight train (or a quick flight on EgyptAir) to Luxor, arriving early in the morning the perfect time to head over to the West Bank to see the monuments of the ancient necropolis of Thebes. In two days, you can visit most major sights, including the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens and Deir al-Bahri (Temple of Hatshepsut). Spend the afternoons and evenings cooling off on the East Bank, but be sure to save time for the spectacular temples of Karnak and Luxor. You can either jump on a morning train to Aswan, or spend a few days sailing down the Nile on a budget-friendly felucca or a luxurious five-star cruiser. Once in Aswan, you absolutely must visit Abu Simbel, the grandest of all Pharaonic monuments, which is perched on the edge of Lake Nasser. With a day or two to spare, you can explore Aswans other highlights including the Nubia Museum and the Unfinished Obelisk before hightailing it back to Cairo.

Temple of Hatshepsut at Deir Al-Bahari, Luxor

10 | Egypt Country Guide/ Itineraries

travelling at a Steady pace

TWO WEEKS TO ONE MONTH/CAIRO TO SINAI
MEDITERRANEAN SEA

egypt beneath the Surface

MORE THAN ONE MONTH/CAIRO TO SINAI PLuS SIWA & PETRA
MEDITERRANEAN SEA

CAIRO
Saqqara Dahshur

Sinai Peninsula
Mt Sinai (Gebel Musa)
St Katherine's Monastery Dahab Sharm el-Sheikh Hurghada

CAIRO
Siwa Oasis
River
Nile

Nile

River

Bahariya Oasis
Great Sand Sea WESTERN (LIBYAN) DESERT White Desert

Farafra Oasis Dakhla Oasis Al-Kharga Oasis

a
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Luxor

Luxor Edfu

RE D

Gr

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Temple of Kom Ombo Aswan Philae

ea

SE A

SE

S
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Lake Nasser

Lake Nasser

Two weeks to a month is an ideal amount of time to get the most out of the Nile Valley while adding the Sinai Peninsula to your itinerary. Starting in Cairo, be sure to add the Step Pyramid of Zoser at Saqqara and the Bent and Red Pyramids at Dahshur to your itinerary, as well as the twisting alleyways and splendid mosques of the medieval quarters of Islamic Cairo. Take your time and spend a moment or two relaxing in one of the areas fabulous ahwas (coffeehouses), where you can alternate between sips of strong Turkish-style coffee and puffs of apple-scented sheesha (water pipe). Next, train it (or fly) straight down to Aswan, from where you can add to your itinerary trips to the island Temple of Isis at Philae and the West Bank, home to ancient monasteries and tombs that cling to the edges of the desert. Then, move into relaxation mode with a slow felucca or cruiser, sailing up to Kom Ombo, site of a fine Ptolemaicera temple dedicated to Sobek, and Edfu, site of a fine Ptolemaic-era temple dedicated to Horu. From here you can move on to Luxor before catching a bus across the Eastern Desert to the resort town of Hurghada, where you can catch a ferry to Sharm el-Sheikh and then a bus to the backpacker paradise of Dahab. Here you can delight in the underwater world before visiting the Greek Orthodox St Katherines Monastery and climbing to the top of Mt Sinai.

In a month or more you could cover most of Egypts main sights, and still have time to explore the Western Desert and even southern Jordan. Starting in Cairo, you can add to your itinerary a visit to Coptic Cairo, the oldest part of modernday Cairo and the Christian heartland of the city. Before heading south to Aswan, take an early train north to Alexandrias Sidi Gaber station and transfer directly to a bus for Siwa Oasis, one of Egypts most idyllic spots. After a couple of days hanging out in this tranquil haven, backtrack along the Mediterranean coast to Alexandria and spend a couple of days in its wonderful cafs and museums. Take the sleeping train (or plane) to Aswan, then back to Luxor and eventually Dahab. Here, you should slow down, chill out and enjoy the laid-back Bedouin vibe of Sinai, pausing only to arrange the obligatory dive trip and/or desert safari. Finally, say goodbye (temporarily) to Egypt on a brief excursion to Jordan en route to the ancient Nabataean city of Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. From here you can move on to Luxor before catching a bus across the Eastern Desert to the resort town of Hurghada, where you can catch a ferry to Sharm el-Sheikh and then a bus to the backpacker paradise of Dahab..

Carvings at the Temple of Kom Ombo

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