Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
''V^"^/i.'-^-
j^-^.^
'^
?'
TRAVELS
IN
VARIOUS COUNTRIES
OF
E. D.
LL.D.
PjiRt
THE FIRST-
LONDON
PRINTED FOR
BY
R.
T.
IN
CADELL AND
THE STRAND
W.
DA VIES
MDCCCXVI.
'
'i
'
CSSt
ADVERTISEMENT
FOURTH EDITION.
Intelligence has
of a
transaction
author
connected
with the
is
First
highly
Part
and
\
of these
Travels,
which
so
that
is
interested
in
by
its insertion.
It
was conveyed
of the
in a Laiiii letter
Don
Cossacks, written
by Colonel Alexius
all
Papof,
president
and
;
director of
their
scholastic institutions
Sir
return from
Persia,
in his capacity
of
British Embassador
Court of
the Shah,
came
to
the
Cossack
Capital.
Here he de-
cy
'
'/^ c">
T^
'"
ADVERTISEMENT
that officer to his presence.
arrival, Sir
*'
Upon
the ColoneVs
state, that;,
he conceived
the
to
be his duty
hospitality
to
acknowledge
disinterested
shewn by the
Colonel,
and by the
English travellers
who had
to
then in his
from
this
work,
all
countrymen;
is
until
as he
kind enough to
author
may
easily be credited
when he
pro-
be more
indifferent to the
general
success';
but no author
will
(1)
it
in
an American
Review,
The
which appeared
American Review,
An
allusion
conscious of wit-
shewn
to
writings,
the triumph
of truth.
Having
made
to them, in conse-
was
likely
to
an obligation
published
it is
accompanied
parte.
by Notes, said to have been inserted under the surveillance of BuonaThose Notes are evidently intended to persuade the Russian
Government of the bad policy of an alliance with Great [Britain
:
is
not so
much
we have au
plains,
the words ^'purlieus of St. Giles's;" which the French translator ex-
*'
Voy.
Note
(I)
du Traducteur.
Paris, 1813.'
(2)
Even the
in this
eulogists of the
prove that the condition of the people docs not differ from the account
given of it
the
work.
monarch
as a divinity; styling
" The peasantry," says Mr. Eton, " look upon him (Zemnoi Bog) God of the
Turkish Empire, p. 433.)
It
Earth."
remained
Leaving,
however,
this point
be decided by
opposition,
his adversaries;
to
and
their
harmless
all
the inevitable
fate of
interests of party
upon
of his
work
;
against which so
levelled
than
that
it is,
more commo-
to
Mr. Thornton {Present State of Turkey, vol. II. p. 99. Note, shew what were Mr. Eton's real sentiments concerning the Russian Governmmt; by contrasting the observations he made after the death of Catherime, with those which he bad before published.
remained
for
Lond.
180.9) to
" Two
the
"
a ussian
on though both
were
publisheil tojfether.
told,
is
" that
The Empress Catherine was then dead; it is time the voice of truth shall
as
to the
*'
It
government of the
tion in the
management
Cambridge, Jan.
1.
1816.
ADVERTISEMENT
TO
A THIRD
Part
of these
that
of time
its
original publication,
may
be considered as affording
good
practical
answer
to
certain objections
it.
made
against
Whether
the
presumption
be true or
false,
author ventures,
upon
work according
In the revised
:
society in
nearly as
it
was printed
in the
former Editions,
spot.
and as
it
May
1,
1813.
ADVERTISEMENT
TO
In
will
be found
in various passages.
;
Some
addi-
tions
and
it is
hoped that
have
The Notes,
in certain instances,
from Charles
Cambridge,
Esq. of Trinity
College^
who
lately
added
to the Appendix,
an important article
Empire^
author
is
(l)
See the
^j'jieridi.v
to this
Volume.
ADVERTISEMENT
and validity of
his
remarks,
concerning the
by
who has
Lord
preceded him.
to
shew
that, sub-
and under
Nobleman, as
ing pages.
it
an
(1)
The kindness
of
tlie
a claim to
Academical
wonder.
The loss sustained by his dcdth can never be retrieved ; but some consolation is derived from the consciousness that all the fruits of his literary labours have not been annihilated. The sublime prophecy of his own Cassandra, uttering" a parable of other times," will yet be
heard;
in his native
language, shewing
"
" Ye
cliffs
of Zarax,
Ye
Ye
Dirphossian
plains
And
founds
what sobs
Of dying men shall ye not hear what groans Of masts and wrecks, all crashing in the wind ?
What mighty
as
own%
two great
cities of the
Russian Empire ^
to
"
Moscow
is
With respect
I
am
my
opinion, after
my
I
having
tmce returned
it
miles
pos-
sible that
the
means of enjoying
now, since
am
my
residence here,
become of
a different opinion.
Not
that
excessively interested,
my
former
visit to Moscoiv.
The
feudal magni-
and
be seen here,
the
immensity,
architecture
variety,
and
the
singular
most curious
(2)
Rev G. D.
JVhittington,
guished friends.
ADVERTISEMENT
and amusing assemblage."
the
In a former part of
same
The words are as follow You have probably received some account of my journey to Archangel; of my movement
"
thence, in a north-easterly direction, to Mezen
of the distinguished reception
I
;
received from
the
Mayor of that highly -civilized^ city, who made me a speech m Russian, three-quarters of an
rein-
between the
which extends
still
was
ignorant."
The
Let us
said
now
upon
contained in a
(.1)
Mr.
JVhittington,
May
l6th, 1807.
"I
left
Moscow on Tuesday
the 5th of
arrived
May
and the
first
town
at
which
was
Grand Duke.
are alone to
The accommodations are such as be met with all over Muscovy ; one
no furniture
and an
absolute dearth
of provisions
Mr.
to
Text
but
that
they were
introduced for
especial
reason.
that the
also
insinuated,
want of
In describing
hospitality
of
" although,^'
to
use his
own
words
in the
it
Volume, "
ADVERTISEMENT
He
also
cites a passage,
in the
Notes, from
a French
work
of
celebrity,
to prove,
with
dans lout
son jour."
Another extract
same
was ob-
although, as he expressly
of the people.
May
sure
5th,
I
b07.
" Notwithstanding
all
I
the pleashall
my
tour,
be
people
is
very great
and
unpleasant to be
On
it is,
my
ge-
neral opinion,
felt
which we have
it
and believe
was
solely
which caused
me
to return thither
from Moscow."
Indeed
it
may be
urged,
that
even those
to present a favourable
strain
every
tinually betraying
hidden
reality.
Their
pages,
were intended
threw
to
conceal'.
Nor
is
it
only in
hostility
when
to
displayed
war
in
circumstances of seeming
or of acknowledged barbarism; in
Alexander.
traveller
nelle,
These are
:
facts,
indeed, which a
may withhold
to
he
may say,
y
with Fontenot
" If 1 had
suffer
one of them
^'^
like
to
Voltaire,
he may wait
until he
has leisure
methodize
(l)
You can
; ;
ADVERTISEMENT
events,'''
but
if
he
the
tells
theme of
praise,
when
all its
that "
is
lovely and
it is
due regard,
not
for its
At
is
all
concerned, shall
now
rest.
Another portion
attention
from
Scythian wilds
and from
all their
fur-clad tribes
to seas traversed
by " men out of every nation under heaven *' Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and " THE dwellers in MESOPOTAMIA, AND IN
(I)
" Even
I.
and of the age of Louis XIV. was of opinion, that it was of greater importance to say what is useful than what is true ; as if what was
false could ever
be useful
I have leisure to methodize the terrible tient of the death of the Tsarevitch, I have begun another work.' Is this the language of a philosophical historian?" Mem. of the Court of Petersburg, p.8\.
Until
**
" and
*'
the parts of LyBIA, about CyPvENE, Jews and proselytes, Cretes, and Arabians."
in
and
strangers op Rome,
VOL.
I.
PREFACE
TO
PART THE
FIRST.
of his Travels
His design
is,
to complete, in
three separate
Europe, Asia,
in
and
of
jifrica; so that
may
constitute a survey
the
some particular region. Thus, for example, Part now published, relates to Travels in Russia, Tahtary, and Turkey; a Second Part
collected in Greece,
finally,
and,
a Third
Part, those objects which were presented in Denmark, Norway, Siueden, Lapland, and Finland,
But, in order to accomplish so extensive an
undertaking, some
the manner of
its
indulgence
;
is
required to
credit for a
execution
some
may
se^m
to
have excited.
It
is
not so generally
h2
'
ii
PREFACE.
may
be, that the passage of a small
known
rivulet,
as
it
Siveden
journey, and
Finland, the
before
the
dismemberment of
mere crossing of a bridge, conducted the traveller from all that adorns and dignifies the human mind, to whatsoever, most
abject, has
fore, the
been found
to
degrade
it.
If,
there-
Empress and Autocrat of all the Russias, Catherine the Second, could find a Volney, who would prostitute his venal pen to varnish the deformities of her reign and of her empire if Potemhin did not want an apologist,
late
;
country;
Great
Britain
will
forgive
the
frankness of one,
among her
sons,
who has
in
the
England
;
Augustine, of
Germany
Denmark
and,
more
recently, the
Abhe
authors of
many anonymous
productions,
re-
antidote of Aleksye
'
PREFACE.
all
jii
and
to
wipe away'.
A few
those
words, by
way
of acknowledgment, to
who have
is
hoped,
at the
same
time,
it is
which occur
the
following
pages.
With
Whitworth,
at Petersburg,
Part of
this
and
his character
ought
stand recorded,
in
having afforded, as an
rare
English Minister,
liberal
the very
example of
(2)
" Omnes
eiiini
magnates,
pra^fecti, primoies,
consiliariique universi,
se chlopos, id
;
Ducis fatentur
et
bona
sua omnia, mobilia et immobilia, quas possident, non sua, sed Principis esse a;;uoseunt.
Ut autem
equestris ordo ^
Magno Duce,
ita
enim plebeius ordo k Nobilihiis et Magnatihus gravissini^ premitur : colonorum enim et oppidanorum boua, niilitarium homiuum et Nobilium praedae exposita sunt.
.Sex dies
Neque
hi
strenuS
bene verberuti."
Desniptio Moicovia:.
L. Bat.lQiiQ,
iy
PREFACE.
In the course of the subsequent narrative, the
to his
own
personal obser-
This
mode
of writing
was adopted,
and companion of
his travels,
College,
CKlvvSyM. A. of Jesus
prise,
added
to the mildness
ness which he preserved through all the trials and privations of a long and arduous journey
as well as the support
which he rendered
to
demand the warmest expressions of The Plants collected during the route
;
were the result of their mutual labour but the whole of the Meteorological Statement in the
jippendix\ together with the account given of
To
the Rev.
Reginald Heber,
late
Fellow of
(1)
(2)
&
VIII.
PREFACE.
for
the
valuable
Manuscript Journal
which
In
may
be mentioned the
which
tions
to supply.
Esq. Fellow
among
Genus
of
a splendid
work on the
kindness
in
Herbarium
Europe,
for
his
and
in
preparing
a List of
them
for
the
Appendix^.
Chap-
for
hi tended,
by
(3)
^ee Appendix
to Vol. II.
Mr. Lamhert
is
805.
Vl
PREFACE.
and
her,
in the least obtrusive
manner, objects
is
re-
the merit
solely
due
to
whose name appears occasionally annexed to those Designs, and who, from the rudest documents, has afforded an elegant and faithful
representation of truth.
some
Should
it is
hoped that
mere writer of
travels
responsible pages
In the
more
attention
was
extract,
than to elegance,
or even
purity of
composition.
The
names,
as far as
Russian
to the writer
who wishes
Upon this subject it not only happens that no two authors agree, but that the same author is inconsistent. Jonas Hanimy, whose writings are
PREFACE.
more accurate than those of any other Enghsh
traveller
vii
who
may be
is
con-
this
respect:
not
consistent'.
is
no
letter
we
Where custom
this
an abuse of
kind,
to
the established
mode
seems preferable
may
wear the appearance of pedantry. The author by the authority and example of G/Z^/'o^z who affirms ^ that
" some words, notoriously corrupt, are fixed,
and as
it
were
ped of the famous, though improper, appellation of MaJiomet ; the well-known cities of Aleppo,
Damascus, and Cairo, would almost be lost in
the strange descriptions of Haleb, Damashh, and
Al
is
Cahira.'^
But,
the line to
(I)
The name
in p. 15,
of the
same place
is
KUieva
I.
1.
Throughout
nating vuuel
is
sometimes
i,
and
and
YatiUtshy, Nasoroivsky.
{%)
i'.S. to Prtf. eh.
Fall,
&o.
viii
PREFACE.
names, which
we
Are we
to write
;
Kiow,
names
the
original termination
It is
iVtdy) redoubled in
word
Vvedenie, signifying
introduction,' consists
of the preposition vo or v
conduct).
(into),
and
vedenie (to
The proper
initial
letter in English,
power
this
it
alone possesses
false
conveys a
word,
idea of pronunciation.
When
compound occurs
it is
as the termination of a
for Orlow;
pronunciation in Russia.
Some
is
however
superfluous.
The
(1)
Strawierri/
Bill, 1758.
(2)
torn.
I.
p. I9.
p. 17.
Hamb.
1800.
PREFACE.
VF, whenever it
the middle, of a
ix
in
word
it is
found as a termination.
There
as an
is
alphabet, which,
initial,
from
its
frequent recurrence
some
cheese
settled
:
viz.
the Tcherve
ch, in
and
child,
and occurs
name
of the
With
perhaps
it
or
which
last offers a
mode
of pronun-
different
parts
is
of
the
paid to a
plexity
and embarrassment.
names of places
by
was paid
map, the
Tartary,
to the
Map
of Reymann, published
But even
Cossacks,
in that
Don
Knhan
and the
Crimea,
appear only as a
forlorn blank.
Many
years
may
expire before
PREFACE.
Russia, like Sweden, will possess a Hermelust,
to illustrate the g-eography of the
remote proit is
maxim
ignorance which
those parts of
her dominions.
On
volume,
between Biroslaf and Odessa, admits of explanation. The geography of all that district is
little
Dniester, the
and soundings of the coast near their embouchures, have never been adequately surveyed.
The only
but sedulously
Europe.
lot,
It
has
however
in
to interfere,
some degree, with this part of its political system, by depositing within a British Admiralty certain documents, which were a subsequent acquisition, made during his residence
Odessa.
in
that country,
They
minous
work, but
may
serve
if
should
demand
presence of her
In making this
PREFACE.
addition to our stock of knowledge, for the use
XI
were broken with a people who have violated every engagement with this country. Those documents were entrusted to the author by
persons fully authorized to concede the information, and their injunctions have been sacredly
obeyed.
TABLES
OF
&
MONEY.
MEASURE.
The The
Archine, or Russian Yard, equals 28 English Inches.
Sajen, or Russian Fathom, equals 7 English Feet.
P'ersts
Three
The The
Russian Foot
104
Versts
Degree.
Ferst.
500 Sajens
3 Ar chines l6 Vershocks
=1 =1
=
1
Sajen.
Archine.
WEIGHT.
smallest weight of Russia
is
The
six grains.
3 Solotnicks equal
1
1
Lot.
32 Lots
40 Pounds
= =
Pound.
Poud.
at
Novogorod
The
may be
all
estimated as equal to an
English Halfpenny.
Almost
calculations
made according
to the
number o[ Copeeks.
In
Moscow
in the
form of
in
them
[roubli),
possessor to detach as
much
require*.
Hence
word
iJoM^/e.
Almost
all
the copper
money of Russia
Ural Mines.
Sixteen Roubles
At
and paper
its
only representative.
The Copeek no
longer
The following statement of the Names and Value Money is chiefly extracted from Georgi.f
SILVER MONEY.
1
1
of Rvissiau
Rouble
Polten, or
\ rouble
-
1 1
I
Polupolten, or i rouble
Dvagriven
Paetalten
1 1
Griven
Paetach
= = = = = =
50
25
Do.
Do.
20
15
Do.
Do.
10
5
Do.
Do.
COPPER MONEY.
1
Paetach
equals
5 Copeehs.
1 yJlline 1
1
Grosh
Copper Copeek
= = =
Do.
2
1
Do.
Do.
This
last
on horseback, piercing
dragon with
his spear.
" From
this
word Copeek
* Georgi, Descript.
de
St. Peters, p.
187.
Edit
f
i
Denga, or Denushka
equals
|-
a Copeek.
Do.
Ushka
The Polushka
name from
hare-skin,
(which, before the use of money, was one of the lowest articles
Iiare's
The
is
It consists
Petek
When
and nighr,
Emperor
made
into ducats.
steam-engines.
LIST OF
to
face the
Title.
\.
to face
Chap.
p.
Map Map
Don
....
....
339.
S-l-S.
p,
CHAP.
No.
1.
I.
Tage
Profile of the
E. D. Clarke
2.
Crystallization of
Water
12
II.
CHAP.
3.
Arms
of Novogorod
14
CHAP.
i. 5.
iir.
Window
of a
Ri/ssiari
Cottage
.
32
44
CHAP.
6.
IV.
58
7.
80
VOL.
CHAP.
Ko. 8.
V.
'
Pace
Gate of JVIoscow
86
CHAP.
9.
VI.
Arms
of the City of
Moscow
VII.
107
CHAP.
10. 11.
140
loi
Great
Gun
of ik/bicom
12.
Peter the
165
Great
CHAP.
13.
VIII.
Russian Broshy
171
14.
193
15.
The
sort of Sandal
to
all
tlie
Northern
Nations
227
CHAP.
16.
XI.
CHAP.
17.
XII.
his
Manner
in
Companion,
297
317
Portrait of a
Calmuck
Woman
xiir.
.
. .
CHAP.
19.
343
CHAP. XIV.
20.
Hamaxoiii of Herodotus,
395
CHAP. XV.
21.
Map
and Don
426
VOLUME THE
Advertisements
FIRST.
to the
Preface
Edition.
Maps, and
CHAP. L
P. 1.
PETERSBURG.
Preliminary Observations
conduct of the
affairs
the police
Strange Extraordi-
nary phcenomenon,
Manner of travelling Palace of Gardens Anecdote of expedition Tsarskoselo North-west Coast of America Ledyard Barbarous decoration of apartments Arrival at Novogorod CathedralAntient Greek paintings Manner of imitating them Russia Superstitions of Greek Church Virgin Russian Bogh. hands Story of her with
Billings's
to
the
the
in
the
three
origin
III.
Aiitient history
Russia churches of Novogorod Evagrius Baptism of Olga, afterwards Helena Procopius General Arms of Novogorod Ceremony of Costume Tumuli route picture of of Valday Jedrova Domestic manners of peasants Servile empire Vyshney Foloshok Torshok Tver of Milanese vagrants Folga Tumuli Klin Petrovshy Moscow Police Accommodations. Arrival
First
in
cros.si"g
NOVOGOROD.
this
Heights^
the
state
the
at
CHAP.
P. 58.
IV.
MOSCOW.
Peculiarities
Persian, Kirgissian, and Bucharian ambas Ceremonies olserved Easter Fasts and Palm Sunday Holy Thursday Magnificent ceremony of Resurrection Excesses of populace Presentation of Ball of peasants Ball of nobles Paschal eggs
Russian hotel
sadors
Festivals
of climate
the
the
the
the
the
CHAP.
p. 86.
V.
MOSCOW.
Surprising talent of imitation
Remarkable Booksellers State of fraud practised by a native Libraries of the nobles Equipages Costume of the Bourgeoisie Amusements of people Chapel of the Nature of imposTverschaiaMiracles wrought ture of a merchant Assassination of an archbishop Motive for worship of picturesResemblance between
among
the Russians
artist
literature
the
there
the
Artifice
the
huslands
Children
Princess Menzikof
CHAP.
p. 107.
VI.
MOSCOW.
State of exiles in Siberia
citizen
Tobolsky Generous conduct of a Prince turned pawnbroker Picture-dealers Stale people Opinions entertained of medicine Manners of Relative condition of and English of Noble behaviour of Count GolovMns peasants Servantt Theft committed by a party of nobles of Convent of New Jerusalem New prohibitions Public Basil fvan Trinity Church of censors Convent of Basilovich Tubervile's
the the
slaves
their lords
the nobility
the
the
the
St.
Letters.
CHAP. vn.
p. 140.
MOSCOW.
Sunday market
Promenades during EasterKremlin Holy Great Bell Great Gun Antient palace of the Tsars Qate
Imperial Treasury Manuscripts Superb model General
of the Ascension.
CHAP. vni.
p. 171.
MOSCOW.
Order of the Maltese cross
Minerals
objects
:
Botanic garden Philosophical instruments Stupendous of Natural History and mode of English horse-dealers Public baths
Other
collections
Gallery of GalitzinLibrary
their
use,
of Count Golovkin
P. 193.
MOSCOW.
Fisit to the
Archlishop of Moscow
his conversation:
Convent
of NicoLL
NA Perrera
and food
Banquets of the
Russian
tables
to
Anecdote
Funeral
of Prince Galitzin
of two English
Gentlemen
in Virtu
Precautions
be used in travelling
Dealers
Immense wealth of
the nobles
CHAP. X.
P. 227.
Celo Molody Serpuchof-~Insolence River Oka Celo Zavody Antient games Tula manuVast Oriental plain State of factures Imperial fabric of arms Present of Tula Economy of fuel Iron mines Road from Tula JVoronetx
and
extortion
travelling
its
stale
to
Dedilof Change of climate Boghoroditx Celo Nikit&koy Bolshoy Platy EJJremof Nikolaijevka Celo Petrovskia Palnia Eletz Ezvoly Zadonetz Celo Chlebnoy Besluxevka
IFine of the Don Change of manners, and of features Neglect of drowned persons Tumuli Malo-Russians Plains south of JVoronetx Celo Usmany Podulok
external
Climate and productions Garden Inundation and product of of Peter the Great Arsenal Commerce, and Increase of
the rivers
buildings
internal
Mojocks, Ekortzy, and leslakovo Locova Paulovskoy PlantsAnimals Trade Rash conSloloda duct of a young peasant Kazinskoy Chutor Nizney Momon DohrinkaMetscha Kasankaia, stanitxa of Don
Moscovskoy
first
the
Cossacks.
CHAP.
XII.
p. 297.
House of Ataman Voyage by water AmuseRiver people Departure Steppes ments and dances of Of brandy a carnp of Calmucks Laxovai from mares milk Personal appearance of Calmucks Arts, armour, and lueapons Recreations and of Acenovskaia Of Suroke, or Bobac, of Steppes Nature of The Biroke and named Russian maps Stragglers from the army Distinction Don Kamenskaia Steppes and of between Cossacks of word ~Tron Foundries of Lugan Etymology of Numerous camps of CalmucksApproach Axo.y.
at
the
Visit to
their
distilled
condition
the
life
the
Suslic
villages
in
the
the
the
Tanai's
to
CHAP.
CAPITAL OF THE
o
XIII.
p. 343.
DON
COSSACKS.
the
Arrival at Axay
Public entry Reception by Don Cossacks Population of Fiew of Don Mode of fasting Analogy of a Court between Don and Nile Natural and Fishes Extraordinary appearance of Tcher Origin of kask Inhabitants and pubtic
their territory
the
Cele-
bration
festival
the
the
curiosities
antiquities
buildings
the
Cossacks
of
Circassians Commerce of Tcherkask Polished manners of people Remarkable wager Survey Entire houses movedDiseases of people town of Greek impostor Departure from Tcherkask.
their
the
the
for the Sea of Azof General view of the South of Russia De RuBRuauis TahtarsArmenian Colony of Nahhlshivan Fortress of St. fiemetry RatsofDivision of the Don Tumuli Fortress and village of Azof City of Tana'is probable situation Condition of the garrison of Azof
its
army
Emharkation
Maoris
Remarkable phcenomenon
CHAP.
XV.
P. 426.
Commerce,
laW'
Canal of com-
Consecrated
Marriage
of the
ensigns
Calmuck
Difference
writings - Sarmacand
Farious inhabitants
P.
of Taganrog
Chumburskuia
Margaritovskaia.
ADDITIONAL NOTES,
Appendix, No.
p. 451.
447 450.
I.
No. n.
p. 453.
Account
Government of that
to
S,:..-Mh.ni,.,3.
^^0
'''Hill'-
'h'/m'/'7///:,:
>^-,x^.
^
CHAP.
I.
PETERSBURG.
Prelimhiary Observations
State
of Public Affairs
Insolence
Extraordinary Phcenomenon.
to
is
of the
A.
ries
CURIOSITY
of Europe
visit
the
Eastern bomidaexcited
in
^^j^
'
naturally
by the
and
''"'"v"^
a country
by any
in
literary traveller,
noticed
either
antient
or in
modern
history.
VOL.
'
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
the
same
river,
altered
in
its
appellation,
Don
whose
territory extends
from the
Sea of ''Jzof to
their
the Kuban.
in the
The Greeks, by
commerce
knowledge of the
Palus
M.tlotis.
people
who
lived
on the
The
but
wars
the
of Russia
and
remote comitry;
inhabitants,
knowledge of
the
its
both
among
Antients
and
names of
With
we
are
very
little
,-
acquainted.
By
referring
to Antient
History
we
find
that
the
may be
to their
arid
the
by
the Cossacks
of mitted to
the
very
little
examination.
It
was
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
among these people that the political differences England and Russia drove the Author, a
from the
last
cities
of
willing exile,
of Petersburg and
Moscow,
century.
in
the
Necessity
;
and
inclination
were
coupled together
faction,
of
escaping
enemies
of his
country,
and
little
with as
fail
to
interest
the
He
presents
in
a state
as
similar
as
possible to that
wherein
notes written
as
made;
abilities
containing
were
imormation or amusement;
and adhering, in
every representation,
E 2
; :
PETERSBURG.
After suffering a
number of
;
indignities,
in
common
that
our
excellent
Charles
(now
Loi-d) IVkitivortli,
neces-
passport
proceed with
to
EnglancL
In
answer
the
demand made by our Minister for an explanation, it was stated to be the Emperor s pleasure.
In consequence of which. Sir Charles inclosed
the
note
containing
his
demand,
the
and
the
Emperor's answer,
in a letter to
English
Government, which he committed to the postoffice with very great doubts of its safety.
Strange
Conduct
of the
mean time, every day brought with it 'some new example of the Sovereign's absurIn the
dities
Emperor.
to originate
in
absolute insanity.
The sledge
the
of
Count
order,
Razumovsky was,
by
Emperor's
while he stood by
in
the
without
t\A
happened
to be
of a blue colour
and the Count's servants wore red liveries upon which a ukase was immediately published.
PETERSBURG.
prohibiting, throughout the
many
were compelled
evening, being
One
at
his
theatre
in
the
in
was performed,
was
introduced.
it
to listen to
and as soon as
all
street
called
The Per-
he perceived a Nobleman
who was
by
the
?"
trees
are
you doing
" Oh,
is
men
that
your employment
and
yourself'."'
When
self,
enraged, he lost
all
command
rise to
of him-
very ludi-
crous scenes.
when
Emperor had
CI
PETERSBURG.
cane
about,
and broke
it.
As soon
as he perceived
in
work
was
entirely
demolished.
Upon
those occasions he
folly.
was
indecency and
But the instances were few in which the gloom spread over a great metropolis, by the madness and malevolence of a suspicious tyrant, was enlivened even by his ribaldry. The accounts of the Spanish Inquisition do not afford more painful sensations than were excited
in
seemed as if half the Nobles in the Empire were to be sent to Siberia. Those who were able to leave Petersburg went to Moscoiu. It was in vain they applied for permission to
ment.
It
leave the
country
the
very request
If
might
any family
%
PETERSBURG.
received visitors in an evening;
if
7
four people
v
chap.
if
J^
*"
>
Jf thl
"
^^'*^^*
with too
danger.
much
If
he was in imminent
in the streets, or fre-
he stood
still
Mungo Park could hardly have been exposed to a more insulting tyranny among the Moors in JIfrica, than Englishmen experiofficers.
in Russia,
and particularly
in
dress
officer
had a
different
notion
of the proper
mode
they were
to
the
most
flagrant
cornered hat,
want of
a long queue
;
and buckles,
instead
arrest
the
knees,
and
in
the
shoes,
to
of
strings.
Orders were
given
any
person
loons.
who
should
A
;
servant
and caned
neckcloth
and
he
PETERSBURG.
would have met with a
never
similar
punishment.
when put
:
on,
Emperor
either
the hat
hair
was not
was not cut wore her hair Court square enough. A Lady rather lower in her neck than was consistent with the ukase, and she was ordered into close confinement, to be fed on bread and water. A
was too
short,
or the coat
at
gentleman's hair
fell
little
;
who
could
When
the ukase
first
form of the
streets
with a view to
appeared
in the
of Petersburg, having
at
on his head an
of which the
It
English hunting-cap,
police-officers
sight
were puzzled.
they said,
*'
"
cocked
hat,"
neither
round
hat."
ported the
the Emperor.
An ukase was
at the
to describe
accordingly promulgated,
and levelled
how
(l)
A mode
in
in Russia.
PETERSBURG.
the anomaly, the
9
that " no
Emperor ordained,
luith the.
chap.
streets, in a pair of
This gentleman
off the
tops
of his boots
ofticers,
fell
each
to
work,
and drew
him
to go bare-
footed home.
If
opened
police, or
expressed themselves
own
country, or
the police-officers
liable to
or
were
be torn
in
an
families
and
friends,
thrown
into a sledge,
and
or to Siberia.
Many
eyes of
God
or man.
veteran
officer,
who
10
CHAP,
PETERSBURG.
had served
fifty
years
in the
V..^^ attained the rank of Colonel, was broken without the smallest reason. Above an hundred officers
met with
ruined
suffer
;
their
discharge,
all
of
whom were
punishment.
imprisonment or
of
all
be the Emwas peror's ill-humour; and when the cause of that ill-humour became known, it appeared that his
The cause
this
mistress,
who
whom
she
was
To such
had been contrasted with his mother's, that he ordered his tongue to be cut out; and sent him to one of those remote islands, in the Aleoutan Tract, on the North-west
in
which
his reign
coast
of
America,
which are
inhabited
by
savages'.
like
mark
their
(l)
The
following^
is
the
literal sense of
It originated in the
his predecessor
Cathebink
begun
in marhle.
base
is
marble, and
summit
brick!"
PETERSBURG.
can
n
we
read of regisays
we wonder
?
at the stories
is
cides
" There
something,"
Mungo
In the
in the reign
we began
we
much
as
that
it
was
" a consummation
Devoutly to be wish'd."-
The season be^an to change before we left Petersburg. The cold became daily less intense
<-' "-"
Extraordinary Jr'hse-
nomcnon.
in
moving from
Neva
remarkable phsenomenon
the
temperature
below
the
freezing
At
this time,
snow,
fell
crystals,
gently upon
sledge, as
we were
All
of
these
crystals
same
figure,
Every
with
star,
12
size of
PETERSBURG.
of rays branching from a
common
stars
centre.
The
to
each of those
little
was equal
by the
in
section of a pea,
two equal
fell
parts. This
appearance continued
during three
hours,
snow
to
and, as there
was
sufficient leisure
strictest attention,
we
made
first figure.
Water,
in its crystallization,
seems
to consist
common
it
centre,
by
perhaps, therefore,
may be
possible
PETERSBURG.
to obtain the theory,
13
and
from which
this
structure
results \
MongCy
of Paris,
descending,
during winter,
when
the
Hauy records
'muriate
this, in
on the
of ammonia^.
The
first drosky^
had made
its
appearance in
left it
;
we
and
we began
that the
to
entertain
fail,
serious
apprehensions
snow would
Moscow be
makes
(1)
destroyed.
We
warm
;
season
appearance
in this climate
there being
An
is
divisible into
be
is
a diagonal (See Figure B), joining the acute angles of a rhomb, whose
sides are the loci of the
lines of ramification
fmm
if
of water crystallized.
star A,
and
6,
an
etjuilatcral
and equiline
as represented
by the dotted
"
II
six rayons,
lorsque
le
temps
est
Ics
calme, et que
cristaux."
(3)
p. 386.
The
as our Hackney-coaches
it
who
sits
bench
This vehicle succeeds the sledge, after the melting of the snow.
14
PETERSBURG.
hardly any interval of spring,
but an almost
the city,
time,
if
not con-
which may be
when
CHAP. IL
FROM PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.
tyeparture
from Peierslurg
Expedition
Palace of Tsarskoselo
lings's
to the
Ledyard Barbarous Decoration of Apartments Arrival Novogorod Cathedral Antient Greek Paintings Manner of imitating them Russia Greek Church Virgin Three of Russian Bogh. Hands of her Origin
at
in
Superstitions
the
ivith
Stoi-y
left
Petersburg on the
morning of the
1800.
third of April,
tion at Tsarskoselo.
Our
Departure
and another
[^i)f^"
.K
16
CHAP,
^^-J^
'
FROM PETERSBURG
sledge, following us,
is
It
mode
of travelling,
it.
Manner of
that others
may
If
"^
'
where
if
by the
inhabitants
is
but
to another,
some contrivance
by
the
superfluous
burthen.
For
this
purpose,
is
most
who
it
also
men-
the
expense of building
in
Viennay
where those carriages are made of the money required by the London coachand they answer every purpose of makers
for one-fourth
;
travelling,
full
as
well
is
as
vehicles
made
in
England.
The
hdtarde
and made
commodious seat for two persons on the outWe caused the driver side, upon the springs. in front but it would be to sit upon the trunk better to provide for him a little chair raised for The door of the dormeuse within that purpose.
;
(ij
Guide
lies
Voyageurs
eii
Europe,
torn.
ii.
planchc
1.
TO MOSCOW.
the carriage lets
17
it
down upon
the seat;
contains
^
chap,
y
>
The
carriage
has,
window behind,
Thus provided,
a person
may
riage
travel night
and day,
fearless of want, of
His car-
his
;
home,
everywhere
and
if
or acci-
may
South.
Over snowy
wheels
when
them
for
the night.
common
neces-
and water.
if
He
will not
even
VOL.
I.
18
FROM PETERSBURG
the chance of a bed.
>
CHAP,
II.
'i.
Every
.
thiiifir
.
he
mav want
must therefore be taken with him. A pewter tea-pot will prove of more importance than a
chest of plate; and more so than one of silver,
because
it
will not
be stolen, and
may be
kept
To
this
he will add,
a kettle
may be
used
made
into rusks,
will
keep
Then,
may
carry frozen
game
chance of injury.
country
;
a cold
but never
even
in a
tem-
perate climate,
countries,
if
In hot
means
a
by which
it
was
obtained.
When, with
skin,
he
little
vinegar will
make
to use
to excess
for
is
somnolency, that
TO MOSCOW.
The
1
19
palace of Tsarshoselo
is
twenty-two versts
'^
chap.
Talace of Tsarsko-
from Petersburg,
1
and
the
T*^
It is
by low buildings
The
it
entirely covered,
most barbarous
and
All
taste,
pilasters,
cariatides,
between the
true style of
windows.
of these, in the
Dutch gingerbread, are gilded. The whole of the building is a compound of what an architect
ought to avoid, rather than to imitate.
Yet so
much money
ticularly
has been spent upon it, and parupon the interior, that it cannot be
when
passion,
who
Gardens.
wished
to gain
were accustomed to place themselves when she descended for her daily walk. A complaint in
her legs caused her to introduce the very expensive alteration of converting the staircase of
e2
20
tlie
TSArxSKOSELO.
Herjnitage, at Pelerslmrg, into an
ofFerino-
inclined
plane;
easy descent.
duced
It
Anecdote
of Billings's
at Tsarskoselo.
was
in
Ex.
by a stratagem, her
.
final
order for
coast
oi
r
pedition.
his
expedition
to
the
North-west
America. Bezborodko, the Minister, although he had received the Empress's order, put him off from time to time, not choosing to advance
the
money
;
tions
and
began
would
never be put
his
execution.
In the midst of
make
known
to the
Empress, and
advised the
Tsarskoselo.
Commodore to accompany him to As soon as they arrived, Pallas conducted him to a part of the garden which he knew the Empress would frequent at her
usual hour.
before she
affability,
long,
Professor Pallas
his health, his
companion.
is
The
Professor
informed her
adding, " he
the person
whom
your Majesty
was pleased
to appoint, in
consequence of
my
TSARSKOSELO.
recommendation, to the
2]
of the ex-
command
" And what," said the Empress, America." " has delayed his departure ?" " He waits, at
this
Professor.
At
this the
reply,
quick-
The next
set
immediately.
better
since informed,
by
This
discovered,
when it was too late. But the loss sustained by any incapacity in the persons employed to
conduct that expedition,
is
unfortunate Ledyard:
this,
it
is
chanced to
point
of
encounter
the
quitting
(l)
See Acccnuit of an
Expedition
to
the Northern
Parts
of
Expedition.
4to.
Loud. 1802.
22
CHAP.
TSARSKOSELO.
America, and
who caused
the information to
be sent
to
Petersburg
The gardens
the English taste
belonging to them
their
situation,
so
fiar
number
up
01
spacious and
gaudy rooms,
iitted
The
w^alls
of the wall,
fill,
spaces
at
vacant.
The
soldiers of
Mummius,
the
sacking of
Corinth,
v/ould
among the
TSARSKOSELO.
thus ruined.
tliority
23
We
were
also assured,
by au-
we
shall not
profusion
of
pictures
the
Flemish School
But
and that
stransfers
is
on
all sides,
from
a lamentable
waste
^ecimens
of a substance which
so
ill
been
employed.
The
even
effect
nificence.
in
by
it
on the walls
is
apartment prepared
floor
for
Prince Potemhin^
the
amounted
of the
many
other rooms.
The ball-room is an hundred and forty feet long by fifty- two feet wide, and two stories high. The walls and pilasters of another
apartment were ornamented with
as well as the tables
it
lapis-lazuli,
contained.
The Cabinet
of Mirrors
is
24
CHAP,
*
TSARSKOSELO.
pier-glasses, looking
is
upon a
terrace, near
which
r--j
There are various statues about the house and gardens, in marble and
sixty
long.
in bronze,
all
without merit.
The chapel
is
entirely
namented.
A
which
ornamented with
.
jasper, agates,
and
is
m. kkM^ ^''^"
The number
orotto
of beau-
minerals,
reliefs, vases,
among
the
others, there is a
vase
composed
of
precious
stones
of
Siberia.
From
by
this grotto is
seen a lake, on
to
rostral
column
in
Orlof;
Empress
honour of the
After
we left
Tsarskoselo, the
snow diminished
very
fast, and our fears of reaching Moscow upon sledges increased'. But during the night, and part of the morning of the 4th of April,
(l)
The
summer
is
then
one
ot the
in Europe.
:;
"
NOVOGOROD.
it fell in
25
all
trace of the
chap.
we
lost
our
way once
we
arrived at
NOVOGOROD.
The place was half buried in snow, but we managed to get to the Cathedral, curious to
see the collection of pictures, idols of the
Arrival at
"^^'
Greek
and which, with many others dispersed in the cities and towns of Russia, were introduced
long before the art of painting
in Itahj.
was
practised
The knowledge
of this circumstance
we
should
and upon
our
first arrival
frontier,
we
Russian
officer
God
this
was The
the
Alexander
and
as
we advanced
through
more
the figures
manner of the earliest specimens of the art, upon a gold ground, and sometimes protected
26
criAP.
'
'
NOVOGOROD.
in froiit
by a
the
faces
and hands
of
Anticnt
Greek
Paintings,
When
f^j-g^;
Church was
propagators,
introduccd
Russia,
its
Commandment from
the worship
them the pictures of the Saints, of the Virgin, and the Messiah. Very antient sanctuaries in the Holy Land had paintings of this kind, which
the early Christians
worshipped; as
may be
at this time in
To
of
of the
fingers
new
and
faith
lips
votaries, in a country
where the arts of multiplying them by imitation were then unknown, they were covered by
plates of the the
left
features
As
soon as the
(1)
In the
earliest
first
edition,
it
The
notice
of
the Council of
Illiferis,
of
some
author found several curious examples of encaustic painting', of a very early date. One of these, from Sepphoris, near Nazareth, is
now
in the
of Cambridge.
NOVOGOROD.
themselves Saints,
their followers.
27
chap.
'
'
The
the
churches,
relics.
and
con-
Many
now
in
Russia,
are
as
It
follow, that,
with
new
required.
Manner of
imitating them in
day by a
talent of imitation,
although without
but
on,
on which
the
it
was
placed.
Thus we
Bogh a
of
to
;
find,
at
end of the
placing
in
eighteenth century, a
Russian
picture,
peasant
before
his
purchased
Petersburg,
the
markets
similar
Moscow
and
exactly
those brought
tenth
of
figures
works
in
Mosaic,
the
and laying
surface,
on
the
colours
same custom of painting upon wood, and the same expensive covering of a
the
silver coat of mail
;
and cheapness of such pictures, the precaution at first used to preserve them is no longer
necessary.
In other instances of their religion,
28
CHAP,
"
NOVOGOROD.
seem
to
be as much
objects of worship
originals
among
themselves.
is
Hohj Sepulchre
at
Jerusalem
having
Cadiedrai.
fhe Cathedral
St. Sophia,
of Novogorod,
dedicated to
to at
in
imitation of the
was
in
Many
of the pictures
seem
consecration,
if
the
country with
of
Christianity.
At any
rate,
we may
consider
some of them as having originated from Greece, whence Italy derived a knowledge of the art, and as being anterior to its introduction in
that country.
Little
They
are
more
re-
markable
Superstitions of the
In the
enter,
dome
of a sort of ante-chapel, as ^
.
vou
"^
Greek
many heads
NOVOGOROD.
of imaginary being-s, that
it
29
ciiap.
'
might be supposed
The
-y
'
out Russia, will shew to what a pitch of absurdity superstition has been carried.
all
Almost
of
churches
them are to be found in the principal and the worship of them forms a
;
conspicuous feature
sians.
in
Some
number
of votaries
be
all
them
obtain a
times
there are
and churches
dedicated particularly to
representations
:
some one
such,
;
for
example, as
The
with
Virgin op Vladimir
Bleeding
Cheek;
!
and The
Three Hands
The authors
New
Jerusalem.
It
was
in
and
that case
it
more properly
applies to another
convent
in
The
following
concerning
history.
An
artist,
30
CHAP,
^
NOVOGOROD.
yirgin and Child^ found, one day, that instead
'
it''
''M
'
Three
the
door
of
his
apartment.
To
as before.
still
He now began
it
to
be
alarmed
but
concluding
possible that
some person had gained access to his room, he once more rubbed out the superfluous hand, and not only locked the door, but also barricadoed
the
windows.
as he
The next
had
left
day,
ap-
and windows
to his utter
fast,
them
but,
went
in,
same remarkable
In extreme
trepidation,
he began
to
more
it
to alter
the picture
in person,
w hen
was her
pleasure to be so represented.
Many
of these
said to be the
work of
In the Greek
NOVOGOROD.
Church they followed the
and have continued
to
31
of Paganism,
idols
They
sights
is
are
one of the
first
which attract a
traveller's notice
for
it
are
preserved
the
called the
one corner':
to this
who
is
enters
offers adoration,
made The
all
adoration
right
consists
in
in
hand
crossing;
head bowing
the time in a
that
it
ludicrous,
a-going,
continue
of old
women and
paintings
In
the
myriads of
idol
and some of
than
can be afforded
(l)
The
picture itself
is
is
name
of Obraze
but as
il
the Olaze
is
considered by every Russian as his Household Gotl, very generally called Bogh, which is the Russian came for God.
CHAP.
III.
NOVOGOROD.
Antient History of Novosorod
Chirches Russia Procopius Evagrius Baptism ofOlga, afterwards HelenaArms of Novogorod Ceremony of Crossing General Picture of Route Heights of Valday Costume TumuliJedrova Domestic Manners of Empire Vyshney State of Peasants Tver Milanese Vagrants Vbloshok Torshok Volga Tumuli Klin Petrovsky Arrival Accommodations. Moscow
First
in
this
the
Servile
the
at
Police
CHAP.
III.
1 HE
by
all
Who
antient
NOVOGOROD.
saying, which prevailed in the days of
its
33
great^
chap.
'
ness^?
its
founders,
-^
came
into Britain.
Four centuries
History of ^^^g*roA
afterwards, a motley tribe, collected from the ^ original inhabitants of all the watery and sandy
plains around the Finland Gulph,
j,
^^^
made
it
their
metropolis.
Nearly a thousand
Ruric,
at
years
have
passed,
since
the
Norman,
gathering
them together
extend over
Russias
:
the
mouth
of the Folchova,
of an
empire, destined to
of
all
the
vast
territories
the
spot where
Novogorod.
a.d. 1015.
death of
Vladimir,
his
who
sons,
divided
there
his
estates
between
twelve
arose
three
The
seat
of government
was
and Moscoiu.
Novogorod adopted
(2)
?"
VOL.
34
CHAP,
in.
A.D, 1250
NOVOGOROD.
teeiith
century,
victories of its
by
its
remote
situation,
sixteenth,
ravaged
carrying
away
famous
bell,
But
ruin
was not
fully
;
Petersburg
when
the
commerce
of the Baltic
was
mum-
First
Churches
in Russia,
mied, of Saints who were mortal ages ago, are shewn in the Cathedral of St. Sophia. This edifice has been described as one of the most antient in the countiy. The first Russian churches were r ccrtaiuly of wood and their date is not easily Christianity was preached to the ascertained.
.
-i
inhabitants of the
Don so early as the time of That Emperor was zealous in buildJustinian. ing churches among remote and barbarous
According to Procopius, he caused a
of the
people.
honour
priests
Theotocos^ and
constituted
among them.
The
NOVOGOROD.
intreated
35
chap.
III.
^
him
to
But by Tandis is said to be intended the stream which runs out of the Mceotis into
the Euxine
;
that
is
to say,
phorus, or Straits of
Taman.
The
arrival of a
might be followed by the establishment of a church; and it is probable, from existing documents, as well as the traditions of the people,
that this really happened, either on the Asiatic
The
wards annexed
included the
Kertchy.
Isle
the
crown of Russia by
Great,
tabernacles
in
of
worship
although,
the
distant
laid.
of
history to bear
point; particularly
them may be
elucidated.
The journey
to
of Olga,
Ruric,
Constantinople,
(1)
Lib.
iv, c.
23.
D 1
NOVOGOROD.
after
of the
Baptism of
Modern
iiot,
Yetv^hen
;
thf rakiX
ceiltllry!"'
that,
subjects
became converts
to Christianity; that
among
their
festival;
doubt.
The
result of
it
proves incontestably
the
is
baptism of Fladimir\
(1)
(2)
Vol.
XXXV.
p.,
182.
Zimisces, according to
It
some
historians,
was
came enamoured
The
;
which hapby
dis-
Collateral annals,
cordant chronology, seem to prove that the whole story, about the
is
A.D. 969.
Ten
mission
St. Adelhert,
bishop of Magdehurg,
A.D. 962.
place this event four years earlier.
Some authors
is
The present
chronology
NOVOGOROD.
This subject
is
37
chap.
Chrisinto
was introduced
Russia.
Some
first
of the
most chosen
idols of their
which the
Constantinople.
The
inscriptions
of those times
interesting
it
many
centuries before
became known
of painting
alone
AH
same
source.
The
inhabitants
South-Sea
the Russians,
to them.
when the Gospel was first preached The full accomplishment of this great
till
Vladimir
became converted.
and
it
It
was
a condition of his
said, that
sand of his
same day. sure was nothing less than a complete revolution in their manners and in their morals. The Vladimir led the way, by his example.
^<0'j:Ce^-JS-
38
NOVOGOROD.
Pagan
'
\
y
^^^^*
idols,
concubines,
were dismissed together and the twelve sons, which his six wives had borne unto him, were
baptized
:
churches
and monasteries
brought
civiliza-
seemed
to
dawn upon
forests of Scythia.
among a people
brute
in
who were
creation,
Arms
of
scarce
to
seems
the
Government of Novogorod, the district where it was first established; and the ludicrous manner in which this event is
of the
typified, is consistent
Arms
people.
Two
bears,
are
repre-
with crucifixes
is
triple lustre,
as an
emblem
of the Trinity \
The
fortress
of Novogorod
It
is
large,
but of
after
wretched appearance.
was constructed
end of the
cathedral.
fortress
fifteenth century,
Upon
the bridge,
is
a small sanctuary,
either deposits
NOVOGOROD.
his candle
39
chap.
,.
>
or
his
penny.
which
really
is
filled
mistake
for
picture-stall,
devotees,
may be
he be employed
to
crossing
before
he
is
mounted.
is
When
his
at
work with
.S*^.
if
seized
with
Vitus s dance.
are
entertained
with
the
same
capital exercise^.
When
and
way
of interlude,
they
generally
make
prostration,
and touch
The snow
from Novos[orod
common
it
:
Tver
but afterwards
we had
(2)
It ^as
practice
among
Tertullian,
who
flourished
A.D. 192,
thus mentions
"Ad omnem
pr()g;ressum atque
promotum, ad
omnem
aditum
et exitum, ad vestitum,
sedilia,
3.
40
CHAP,
III.
FROM PETERSBURG
scarcely sufficient for the sledofes, and in
"^
some
than
was
bare.
this
The
traveller will
be
readers at
April
6, 7,
information
will of course
compare
;
the observation with the date of the journey the weather in Russia
irregular
It
is
as
may
generally be
ascertained
by the Ca-
lendar.
notion has
become
straight
it it
line
perhaps, because
was the
so
made^
The country
fir
is
generally open,
a wide and
where the
and the
dwarf
birch,
The
to
set agriculture
Towards the
What
the
;
summer road
but our pro-
may
be,
we
(l)
When
Jonas
Hanway
(Travels, Vol.
I.
p.i)2.)
passed in 1743,
only one hundred miles had beeti ci:nipleted according to the original plan
5
for the
whole distance of
made by him, no
less
than two
TO MOSCOW.
^ress was as devious as possible.
In
soil
all
41
the
v
chap.
is
hilly,
-y-/
*
so that
itself,
what with
the
^^aS'ay.
of drifted snow, and the rising and sinking of the country, our motion resembled that of a vessel
rolling in
an Atlantic calm.
Our good
friend
rough a journey
He mento
which
So
snow
failed in the
moment
of arrival in Moscow,
Costur.ic.
resembles
a shift with
one
full
in
Sivitzerland.
sleeves,
and a
Over
The
hair of
is
unmarried women, as
in
most
parts of Russia,
length
down
their backs.
On
;
their
heads they
wear a handkerchief of coloured silk. married, the hair is trussed up and this
(3) Travels
When
consti-
I. p. 4.
42
CHAP,
III.
'
FROM PETERSBURG
tutes the
may
pass over
any
is
change
in the
costume.
!
How
very different
bridge in
a different
where the mere passage of a the same city, as at Naples, leads to mode of dress. The male peasants of
of a sheep's hide, with the wool
jacket
made
rim.
made
and woollen
legs,
Conical
mounds
of earth,
this
or
tumuli,
very frequently on
road.
The most
markable
Yezolhishy
may be observed
left;
in the stage
between
to
Pro-
volume of his
asked.
late
work'.
They
:
are
common
indeed
in
it
all
and
may be
Where
is
the country,
?
(l)
TO MOSCOW.
43
chap.
We had
Petersburg
by a
bell,
suspended
it
to his belt
passed
for
we
arrived
at Jedrova.
by a
police-officer,
such a distinction.
Petersburg to Moscow
Jedrova.
a traveller more
It
consists
by
wooden
;
huts,
whose
roofs
and
this street is
view of one
seldom
such
is
any difference
places
found.
holes,
in the
mode
of constructing the
window
in
seldom ^
The houses
(2) Tlie
heinjf in
44
FROM PETERSBURG
Upon some
of the
women we
observed such
The
most
part, consist of
in
poor
is
stunted trees
summer,
each other
as
which
occasion
such violent
jolting,
the wheels
it
cannot be
upon.
Domestic
Manners of
tiie
Pea-
a very interestino^ peep into the o x i J ^ mauucrs of thc peasantry. For this we were
jj^d
\ye
gants.
indebted to the
Poschol.
breaking of our
sledge
at
ing
The woman of the house was prepara dinner for the members of her family^ who
TO MOSCOW.
were
s:one to church.
It
45
chap.
III.
consisted only of a
Presently her husband, a mess of pottage. boor, came in, attended by his daughters, with
some small loaves of white bread not larger than a pigeon's egg these the priest had consecrated, and they placed them with great care Then the bowing and crossbefore the bogh'.
:
ing
same bowl.
as
Dinner ended,
if
they went
regularly to bed,
to pass the
as
before.
Having
served,
young
women, according
and a complete
to seize him,
of crossing and
bowing seemed
it
was very
difficult to
pre-
The pauses
of scratching and
the
(1)
made by mixing
It
flour
it
The
is
;
flavour
is
like that
verj'
unpleasant to
but, by use,
we became fond
is
and
in the houses of
Nobles,
where attention
is
paid
to
brewing,
this
acidulous
beverage
46
CHAP,
in.
self,
FROM PETERSBURG
God were such as drunken Barnaby might have expressed m Latin, but cannot be told in English.
and
to his
.
.
Servile State of
tlie
The
t
Empire.
t-
The
first
nobleman
in the
empire,
when
dis-
withdrawing
brutes.
Uttle superior to
that of
body wrapped
raw
turnips,
and drinking
quass; sleeping
one half
the other.
The same
feelings, the
same wants,
wishes, and gratifications, then characterize the nobleman and the peasant; and the same system of tyranny, extending from the throne down-
wards, through
tions
all
of society,
composed entirely of slaves. high and low, rich and poor, superiors; haughty and cruel
barbarous, dirty,
They
are
all,
alike servile to
to their depen-
mean.
TO MOSCOW.
the
first
47
wives
of his
and the
slaves, their
and daughters.
flagellation
in Russia,
its
begins
and throughout
vast
V'yskney
Voloshok
is
a place of considerable
Vyshney
carried on.
by
five
thousand
Per-
haps there
inland
navigation
obtained
by
and
ai'tificial
little its
labour; for
the Volga
navigable almost to
is
source
all
the distance
(1)
An
officer chastised
By
this it
is
not common.
the beard
a Prince
:
Peter the Great, however, used to take his Boyars by and all Petersburg knows that Potenikin boxed the ears of
to applaud one of his jokes
*'
who presumed
" IVhat,"
by clapping the
hands
said he,
m'screant
do you take
me for a
stage-
player ? "
(2) See the
.V/>/>?rf<.c,
Navi-
gation
oj
Russia.
48
CHAP,
^
FROM PETERSBURG
that has
canal.
been
cut
through^
in
forming the
of
The merchandize
Above
full
of Astracan, and
is
brought to
The town,
or village, as
it
It is
ance;
forming a striking
contrast
with
the
At the
different stations
which occur
in the
when he
As
there
is
modation
pose
for travellers,
were used
the
neither
would
national
character
suffer
by such
hospitality.
Of course we allude
to
for
changes that
may
when we
was
a crime of the
first
but
make
this
Tfirshok.
From
VyshneTj Voloshok
we come
to
Torshok^
for
TO MOSCOW.
spring", superstitiously
49
pilgrims from
all
parts.
:
built
a thriving condition.
At Tver, sixty-three versts farther, there is a decent inn. A shop is also annexed to it, as it
Tver.
more northern parts of Europe. This shop is kept by Italians, natives of the Milanese territory, a vag^rant tribe, whose ^ J^ industry and enterprise carry them from the Lake of Como to the remotest regions of the earth.
sometimes happens
in
Milanese Vagrants,
They They
are seen in
all
countries
even
in Lapland.
with an
containing
cheap
coloured
prints, mirrors,
most
part,
men
of ingenuity, of
uncommon
collect,
many
At
Ti;er
we beheld the
interest;
ice,"
Votga,
considerable
though
bound
in
" thick-ribbed
consciousness of
its
throuoh a course
50
FROM PETERSBURG
of four thousand versts in extent, bearing wealth
and plenty,
tions.
It
is
reflec-
seemed
pian,
little
known, who
dwell upon
shores.
The
situation of Tver,
is
upon the
It
lofty
banks
of the Fblga,
very grand.
its
has a number
shops, as well as
The junction
near the Street
to Moscoiu
in
the
performed
in fifteen
hours.
The
road
is
broad, and
more
straight
But
of melting
snow,
is
almost impassable.
In the second
stage from Tver, between the sixth and seventh versts from the post-house, on the left hand,
appeared
Tumuli.
an
entire
group
of
those
antient
They
are so perfect
is
In some parts of
tent.
Hence the
TO MOSCOW.
in their forms,
51
^
and so remarkably
situate, that
chap.
III.
We endeavoured to
concerning them.
to contain bodies of
less reasonable,
men
slain in battle.
A notion
that
although
common
to countries
is,
widely distant
two
are
shewn
Tombs
of
Gog and Magog, whence the name given to the eminence where they are situate. The
Tomb of
by
Tityusy the
in the
most antient of
is
all
those
mentioned
History of Greece,
described
Horner^, as a
mound of
warring against
we came
hills
:
to a
is
KUn.
this
marked
in the
It
Russian
Map
it,
as
a town, and
called Klin.
On
the right, as
we
left
appeared one of
Pausanias saw
it
in Phocis,
at the
stadia
from Chccronea.
E 2
52
HAP.
J
MOSCOW.
The
the
rising
towers
we reached
is
it
flat
and
open
district, equals,
by its majestic appearance, that oi Rome, when viewed at an equal distance. As we approached the barrier of Moscow, we
bchcld, ou the
built of brick.
left,
Palace of
It
It
was erected
the
for
inhabitants
them durst
its
much more
are at
in
awe
Petersburg.
to
said
the
Empress
her
littk
Catherine used
haughty republic'.
call
Moscow
is
This palace
about four
Arrival at
we were some
city, like
time
Moscow-
most of
the others,
(l)
Jl
''
lis
((lit
file ;)
je
ne suis point
la
mode
a Moscou."
Lett, et Pens,
du Prince de
L'igne, tome
i.
p.
Hfa".
MOSCOW.
each
is
53
side,
surmounted by
the guard-house.
... Within
eaolcs'^.
On the
left
v
chap.
in. ,y,,
this gate a
number
mud
town.
amused
themselves by heaping as
much
of the
mud
as
who
sat
in
front.
The
officer
appointed to
we hoped
His
Instead of pre-
and
to hold his
mud and
it
covering with
the provisions
whatever else
wives and
their
khahitkas
might contain,
complete their
each
At
last,
to
scandalous oppression,
they
compelled
(2)
to
54
peasant,
J
MOSCOW.
as
he passed,
to
sit
clown
in
his
khabitka,
At this unexampled instance of cruelty and insult, some of the peasants, more spirited than the rest, ventured to murmur. Instantly, blows, with a heavy cudgel, on the head and shoulders,
silenced the poor wretches' complaints.
this
Before
passed, with a
a
very
different
motive.
First,
loud
and
to indicate
it
some
but
was quickly
in
consequence
of a small piece of
their
hands by the
must be more
officer
in the service.
fifty
We
were witness
to
upwards of
when
the
A miserable
now
;
appointed to
The snow
MOSCOW.
was by
this
55
and the
moved was
gave
much
it
difficulty,
that
would break,
we compelled them to The dragoon said we must take advance. every thing, exactly as we arrived, to the
or the horses drop,
Commandant's;
carriage.
and
proceed
sitting
in
the
At the same time he threatened the peasants with a flagellation; and giving one of them a blow over his loins, bade him halt Another effort was of course at his peril.
made, and the sledge flew
to pieces.
It
was
as it was not
drosky
was procured, on which we were ordered to sit; and thus we proceeded to the CommanFrom the Commandant we were next dant.
ordered to the Intendant of the Police
all
:
and
the
insolence
of
two or three
idle
officers,
who
we
Some
of them
way even
when
5^
MOSCOW.
we were
employment
a species
their
superiors
would
demanded
for a single
would blush
floor
The
dirt
on the
destitute
may
entirely
of beds.
They
full
of
vermin.
The
more
disgusting,
them with
the
most abominable
made
the
on entering
empu'e
this
remarkable
first
city,
we might
in
;
families
statement
but
un-
would materially
therefore
their
safety.
We
shall
reservedly proceed to
relate
what we have
MOSCOW.
seen, in that confidence
i>/
to
,
chap.
much
for
may compensate
in
going
the
of
for
filthiness
of
its
hotels,
profligacy
its police.
of
nobles,
and the
villainy
CHAP,
IV.
MOSCOW.
Peculiarities
Impressions made on a Arrival Russian] Hotel Persian, Kirgisian, and Bucharian Ambassadors Fasts and Ceremonies observed Easter Palm Sunday Holy ThursdayMagnificent Ceremony of Excesses of Populace Presentation of Peasants Ball of Paschal Eggs Ball of Nobles Incident of Caprice Dress.
of Climate
first
Festivals
at
the Resiirrectiou
the the
the
the
Characteristic
in
CHAP.
IV.
' ,
J-
HERE
is
Peculiarities
The
of Climate.
Moscow have no
spring:
Winter
MOSCOW.
vanishes,
59
is
and summer
is !
This
and the
manner of
Petersburg
it
exceeds behef.
Moscoiu in
We
to
sledges.
snow was gone. On the eighth of April, at mid-day, snow beat in at our carriage windows. On the same day, at sun-set, arriving in Moscow, we had difficulty in being dragged
day,
through the
mud
to the
Commandant's.
The
the houses,
the casements thrown open, all the carriages were upon wheels, and the balconies filled with spectators. A few days afterwards, we expe-
according to
the
the scale
when
thermometer
was
We
which
Moscow
arrived at the
this city is
is in
impres.
on a fim
""^""^^
*
most interesting
as well
it
wonder and
derision, pleasure
and
regret.
by which we entered, and Numerous spires, with gold, amidst burnished domes
and painted palaces, appear in the midst of an open plain, for several versts before you reach
60
CHAP,
tliis
MOSCOW.
Having passed, you look about, and wonder what is become of the city, or where you are and are ready to ask, once more, How
gate.
;
far is
is
it
to
Moscow
They
This
Mosco2v
.^"
were, of
stock
an empire with
One
all the States of Europe and had sent a building, by way of represenAsia tative to Moscow : and under this impression
might imagine
tlie
eye
is
presented
all
timber-huts from
plastered palaces
the
Tahtar
pavilions,
from
France; architectural ruins from Rome; terraces and trellisses from Naples; and warehouses from Wapping.
its immense popuyou wander through deserted streets. Passing suddenly towards the quarter where
lation,
'
MOSCOW.
the shops are situate,
61
chap.
The
daily throng
is
*s
through
it,
or assign
and are
the
told that
it is
Nor
is
costume
:
the aspect of
the buildings
sacks,
Chinese,
Poles,
Italians,
Germans,
all
parade
in
the
We
was
were
in
a Russian inn;
UusvKin
,tcl.
tome of the
filled
city itself.
by an ambassador, and
In a
oi
his
from Persia.
Persians,
ivrsian,
Kirgisian,
lodged a party
amiBuchabalsadors.
whom
might be exhibited
some newly-discovered species. They had bald heads, covered by conical embroidered caps, and wore sheep-skins. Beyond
as
the
Kirgisians
were
exto
districts,
war.
The doors
of
all
;
into one
all
gloomy passage
we
62
CHAP.
rade.
at
MOSCOW.
The
Kirgisians and
;
arm's length
He brought
of his
us presents, according to
;
country
we had
At
his devotions,
he stood
silent for
towards Mecca
holding,
Mohammed.
He had
with
his nephew, and a Cossack interpreter from Mount Caucasus. His beard and whiskers were long and grey, though his eye-brows and eyes were black. On his head he wore a large cap
him
same materials, edged with gold. His fet were covered with yellow Morocco slippers, which were without soles, and fitted
of the
like
gloves.
All his
;
suite joined
in
prayer,
conti-
man
nued
he had dismissed
his attendants.
were
absolutely
cut
by them.
Imitations of these
MOSCOW.
poiofnards are sold in Moscow, but of worse ^ " materials than the swords from England. When
63
chap.
IV.
they
sit,
Orazai
that
we
out a reed,
and holding
in his left
left,
put-
down our names, and noting the information we gave him of England. Afterwards he wrote his own name, in fair Persian characters, and gave it to us, as a memorial by which to recognise us if we ever should visit
Persia.
Upon
sold slaves.
He
who
An amusing embarrassment took place whenever a little dog belonging to us found his way into
the ambassador's room.
diately
The
Persians
imme-
drew up
their
their feet,
up
all
clothes,
retiring
possible
They told us, upon their couches. that if a dog touch even the skirt of their clothing, they are thereby defiled, and cannot
say their prayers without changing every thing,
and
undergoing
complete purification.
His
The
airs
were
vei-y lively.
64
CHAP
aftcl
MOSCOW.
not unlike our English hornpipe.
The
which seemed
the
to consist of
them
to
from
slowly,
They drink
which
is
we
do;
meat, it is rarely any other than mutton, stewed into soup. The young man drank of the Russian
and
smoked
pipe
is
tobacco.
;
which
almost universal
the old
man apcommon
his attendants.
interpreter, a Cossack of
rich.
It
and a
a rich
silk waistcoat,
out buttons;
and a magni-
Oriental hordes
the court-yard
of
the
inn,
from
Fetersi'ia-g.
MOSCOW.
of
65
them with a barouche. Nothmg could be chap. more ludicrous than was their appearance. '^% Out of respect to the sovereign, they had maintained a painful struggle to preserve a sitting
'
posture
in
Turks.
been jolted
trees,
so that,
when taken
from their fine new move, and made the most pitiable grimaces imaginable. A few days after their arrival at
Moscow, they ordered
sold,
offer.
all their
carriages to be
for
whatever
It
is
now
time to take
ental friends
ffive
The people
the rest of
a degree of
splendid pa-
geants of
the
Neither
in licenthis
season in Moscow.
VOL.
I.
66
CHAP.
<
MOSCOW.
It
,/
should
first
IV. .,-
people
who observe
nierX"
SalLt.''''
Traif
any time,
in
sants appeared
we
offered
them a
dashing
and cast
it
to the
dogs
any food given to them; and removing every particle that might be left, entirely from
In drinking tea with a Cossack, he
their sight.
would not use a spoon that had been in the tea offered him with milk, although wiped carefully in a napkin, until it had passed through scalding water. The same privation takes
place
among
but, in propor-
the
more excessive
*'
is
risen''
the
mouth of
the archbishop.
as
debauch-
extravagance,
gambling,
drinking,
and
fornication,
were as much a
religious obser;
'
MOSCOW.
same
to the
67
superstition
which
kept
them
fasting
ciiap.
them
Even
No-
When
and
storing,
The
night
filled
with
flesh,
butter,
food.
eggs,
poultry,
pigs,
The crowd
of pur-
immense.
You
;
passenger
filled
is
who has
with provisions
not
weight.
The
Jleuries,
first
Sim-
vious to
all this
was
car-
riages,
for the
on horseback, or on
F 2
foot, to
the Kremlin,
68
MOSCOW.
before their Boghs, and to decorate the sacred
pictures in the streets, or
elsewhere.
It
is
momited on
fine horses.
;
The
and cavalry
bouquets
and
boughs, are
seen
and
striking spectacle of a
forest.
The boughs
fruit.
lemons
wax
and
this
offer
Upon
the
every person
who
visits
and,
in
returning, the
streets
are
crowded with
droshies,
and
all
kinds of
number of
Boghs
in their houses.
The
description
often
in
Moscow but
ill
agrees
MOSCOW.
with their appearance during Lent.
stranger,
v
chap.
^j
who
head
narrow
full
of notions of
Asiatic
pomp and
be surprised
to find
execrably
mud
or dust;
wretched-
true,
by
six horses,
blind,
sizes
and
all
connected
on the leaders,
to
have
more
itself like
the worst of
the nidit-coaches in
London.
far as
it
But
this
external wretchedness,
The
fact
is,
that
bad
and a shabby
vehicle,
constitute one
On
Easter
city.
when
the archbishop
is
said to
wash the
feet
of the jlpostles.
This
we
also witnessed.
The
70
CHAP.
'
MOSCOW.
Twelve monks, designed to represent the ttvelve Apostles, were placed in a semicircle before The ceremony was performed the archbishop. in the cathedral, which was crowded with
spectators.
The
archbishop,
is
performing
all
up
and
proceeded to wash
until
the feet of
all
the monks,
who
inter-
which
is
Ceremony
of the Resurrection.
The
of
all,
third,
is
in the
not
benediction,
during the
of the cathedral
to
be the roUino;
the bells in
stirring,
Every inhabitant
of carriages in
w^as
and
rattling
the
streets
was
MOSCOW.
greater than at noon-day.
in a blaze
;
71
city
The whole
in all the
was
chap.
lights
were seen
windows,
in the streets.
The
its
illuminated from
the churches
are
all
equally crowded.
We
it
was
filled
all
wax
tapers,
different shrines.
The
and
ment of our
arrival, the
moand
by
all
censers,
chaunting
and
glittering in
sumptuous
silver,
and
so
the city
this magnificent
was
there-
fore constrained to
move upon
planks, over
72
CHAP,
IV.
MOSCOW.
the deep
mud which
After
completmg the
closed;
the
they
all
were
archbishop,
with a censer,
of
spectapers,
within,
innumerable
the
formed two
lines,
through which
arch-
The
profusion of lights
among
others,
of the enormous chandelier in the centre, the richness of the dresses, and the vastness of the
assembly,
filled
us with astonishment.
Having
we accom-
permitted us
to stand,
among
The
sion
moved towards
was
for
moment
called
MOSCOW.
in picking
73
liis
my
companion's pocket of
hand-
chap.
kerchief.
Soon
after,
the
went
all
he passed along.
the
When
he had returned to
bishop,
who
rose and
their
seemed
really exhausted,
tion of the
We
had now
leisure to
priests,
we had
Their
in
down,
rich robes
and shoulders.
beards,
also,
entirely covered
breasts.
Upon the heads of the archbishop and bishops were high caps, covered with gems, and adorned
(ij
Like Poteaikin, " D'une main faisayit des signes aux Je mines
et
qui
lui plalsent,
Lett, et Pens,
du
p. 6.
74
CHAP,
IV.
MOSCOW.
by miniature
paintings,
set in jewels,
of the
Crucifixion, the
Virgin,
Their
of
robes of various-coloured
w^ere
the
were
stones
miniature
'.
pictures
with
precious
sons
the congregation, in fine raiments, the workmanship of " Bezaleel, the son of Uri, the son
of Hur, of the tribe of Judah."
is
It is said
there
women
are enfor
tirely
employed
in
working dresses
the
priests.
which
all
the people
crowded
to
As soon, however, as their eagerness had been somewhat satisfied, he retired to the
sacristy,
for the
body of Christ
in
where putting on a
is
plain purple
risen
!""
The
and
is
MOSCOW.
The most remarkable part of the solemnity now followed. The archbishop, descending into
body of the church, concluded the whole ceremony by crawling round the pavement on
the
his
75
^^j^^^
,
'
pictures,
altars,
whether on the
the
or the
tombs
the
Sepulchres were
mummied
:
exhibited
all
underwent
and
riot
and
.
Excesses of
tl.e
loose.
The mn
continued
Popu-
Lko.
where
we
lodged
dancing,
became
and
Pandcemoniiim.
Drinking,
singing,
place.
The
full
;
lace
is
of humanity.
Few
;
disputes
are
heard
gered,
by
drinking.
No
scribes the
Heathen ceremony respecting the Finding of Osiris. Plutarch desame sort of procession and ceremony adding, "Then all
;
that are present ciy out with a loud voice, Osiris is found!" IfJ ylvtrai x^auyh Tav vra^oirm, u; iv^ttfiivou roZ 'Offl^iSa;. Plut. (le Isid. et Osir,
C.
39.
76
CHAP.
IV.
MOSCOW.
Christ
is
risen!
to
is
the same,
indeed !
Vo
is tine y
He
is
risen
Preseiita'^
Oil Ettstcr
Fascial
^ess-
mas-
Every
offering
The
meanest pauper
egg,
in
may demand
All business
is
engaged
in
visiting,
balls,
suppers,
air
masquerades;
while
boors
the
with
Servants appear in
liveries,
and carriages
ration.
in
the
Ball of the
Peasants.
we made
our-
selves as
much
and
went
in caftans to
was held in a suite of several apartments and a numerous band of music, composed of violins, wind
the citizens, given in our inn.
;
care to
The master of the inn had also taken invite a company of gipsies, to entertain
MOSCOW.
company by their dancing-. A single rouble was demanded as the price of admission. All
the
fears
'jy
chap.
of
appearing
like
foreigners
vanished
;
for
we found
an assembly as various
in their
appear-
a groupe
unmoved by shouts
pair
by the thundering of a
In another
room was
these
men
Besides
all
of
whom
appeared as
room, the
city,
In the middle
of the
Russian
boors,
were dancing with prostitutes, while their own wives and daughters were walking about.
A party
dance,
of gipsies
called,
accompanied,
lish
Barina.
hornpipe,
and was
full
expressions of
the most
ferocious licentiousness.
The male
78
MOSCOW.
dancer expressed his
contortions,
savage joy
in
squeaks,
and
sudden
then
convulsive
spasms
;
that
seemed
to agitate his
still,
whole frame
howling,
stand-
ing
sometimes
whining
to the
tenderly, or trembling in
all
his limbs
This dance,
although extremely
fess to
common
and
it
may
seem probable that our hornpipe was introduced by the same people. Other gipsies were telling fortunes, according to their unitherefore
versal
practice,
ice.
or
begging
for
presents
of
oranges and
found
in all
parts of Europe,
casts of India,
:
was
originally
one of the
own
territory
Indian tribes by a
name which
signifies
Thieves\
the
the
They have
Finlanders.
a similar
appellation
among
same what
features,
is
and,
same mode of
of Lidia
in
The extraordinary
gipsies to the
re-
women
was remarked by our officers and men Egypt, when General Baircl arrived with his
See the Commentary of Professor Porthan, oi Abo in Finland,
of that University.
(l)
known.
He
MOSCOW.
army
to join
79
Lord Hutchinson.
had many
of their
women
all
with them,
^'/'^^
In regulating
their finery
in Russia is
;
upon
their
head.
Their costume
very different
heads.
They
also
coins as
The
never
feel
Russians hold
contempt,
abuse
and
themselves contaminated by
They
For-
collected,
whom
they
pay a certain
number of
hands
his slaves.
They accompany
their
cries, adapted to the sudden movements, gestures, and turns of the dance. The male dancers hold in one hand a handkerchief, which they wave about, and manage
80
MOSCOW.
with
grace as well as
art.
CHAP
The
dance, like
of
indecent posture,
Nothini? can be
is in
more
their
arms
lians
it
represented
on
Greek
vases.
But the
women do
keeping
those attitudes
upright position,
When
barina,
it
is
accompanied with
Formerly
: ;
MOSCOW.
the manners of France and England, they have
laid
it
it
;
81
aside.
Many
of
them are
still
able to
use
but as they
ment a
sort of degradation in
eyes
of
betray their
ladies,
skill
many
of the
IVelsli
Engli.slij
Collected
for this
in
other parts
of rooms opened
They preserved
mony, each taking a separate part, although without any seeming consciousness of the skill thus exerted. The female dancers and assistants in this ball were many of them prostitutes
but the wives and daugliters of the peasants
and
lovver
tradesmen
out
mingled
in
with
full
these
women,
dressed
their
national
all
dis-
The
and,
it
ball
Jaiioftiie
Nobk
rent description.
may be
it.
nothing like
The laws of the society exclude every person who is by birth a plebeian; and
this exclusion
forei2:ners
VOL.
I.
82
CHAP,
therefore
MOSCOW.
we
felt
grateful
in
being allowed
admission.
Prince Vlazemskoy,
who married an
notwithstanding
the
Englishmen'.
is
Excellency
this
be now
he
requested
to
pardon
scension.
The author
that
congeniality of sentiment will render any apojlogy superfluous for the sacrifice
he has
else-
where made
in the
cause of truth.
The
saloon,
coup
is
d'oeil,
upon
entering
the grand
inconceivable.
The company
con-
two thousand persons. The dresses were the most sumptuous tliat can be imagined and, what is more remarkable, they
sisted
of near
were conceived
in a high
and were
favourite
degree
becoming.
ladies,
The
ornaments of the
girdles
at this time,
were
in
round
;
their
waists,
or
upon
their
bosoms
since
fair that
has
country, and
(l) I
all travellers
"
"
paroit
ici
MOSCOW.
was
originally
83
the
to
^
derived
chap.
women
of France and
England may
fashions
go
'
own
set off to
chiefly
advantage.
after the
blended
select
together
by
who
it
their
must be
their
When,
it
in addition to
personal attractions,
is
most excessive extravagance is used to procure whatever may contribute to their adornment*;
that a whole
fortune
;
is
sometimes
in the
lavished
upon a
in
single dress
world, lighted
and
with matchless
elegance and
the effect has
splendour;
may be supposed
In such an assembly,
we had
every reason
.
Caprice in Dress.
might
f2) It
is
who had
own
him
always herself, and allowed him only to come out during her toilette,
in order that her false tresses
G 2
84
CHAP,
^
'
MOSCOW.
pass without notice.
^
We
had,
moreover, a
would be the
decree
of the
case; as,
in
obedience to
into a queue, which appeared most ridiculously curtailed, sticking out, like any thing but that
which it was intended to represent, and most remarkably contrasted with the long tails of the
Russians.
was
other-
wise
and a curiosity
becoming general,
found ourselves
persons, some of
tvho
to our
surrounded
by a crowd of
it
whom
cut
our hair ?
Such questions,
may be
next day,
in receiving the
whose fortune he assured us we had made all the young nobles having sent for him, to cut and dress their hair in the same
ridiculous manner'.
Such a
trifling incident
if
it
mentioned,
(0 A
Its
author,
The same
MOSCOW.
very serious turn
fering, the
;
8;j
chap.
y
young men, who had thus docked themselves, were apprehended in the public walks, severely reprimanded, and compelled to
wear
false hair;
to
use
with
we
should also
be apprehended, and
perhaps
treated
more
rigour.
The dances were called Quadrilles, Polonese, and English. The JValtz, once their favourite, had been prohibited. But whatever name they
gave to
the
their
all
dull,
and
consisted merely in
sovt of pro77ienade.
Neither
men
nor the
women
degree of animation
to
in the exercise,
but seemed
not
dress
consider
still.
it
as a
sort
of apology for
full
sitting
the
men
appearing
uniform, or in
acknowledgment of hisfnith
possibility of another theft,
is
to the pickpocket in
mentioned
least
in p. 92.
to explain
many
In stating
the time of our residence in Russia, with a degree of accuracy highly characteristic of his countrymen, instead of calculating the period
it
CHAP. Y.
MOSCOW.
Surprising
Taloit
State
the
Equipages Costume of Bourgeoisie Tverschaia People Chapel of Amusements of Miracles wrought Nature of Imposture of a Merchant Assassination of an Archbishop Motive for Worship of PicturesResemblance Russians and Neapolitans Wives of between Conduct of Husbands Children ofOrlof Nobles
Nolles
the
the
there
of Literature
Libraries of
the
the
Artifice
the
the
the
their
Emperor
at the Funeral
of
his
Mother,
CHAR
' .
In
whatsoever country
we
Talent of
Imitation.
genius,
we must go
This
is
imitation.
the
acme
of Russian intellect
MOSCOW.
the principle of
all
87
Russian attainments.
The
it
chap.
own
but
is
exceed
known.
slave
is
sometimes able
most
intricate
delicate
single
works of mechanism;
to
hand,
workmen
in
France or in
Although untutored, they are the best actors in the world. A Russian gentleman,
England.
theatre,
representation of a play
to
be superior to
something similar.
they were
To
we saw one
who
he
striking testimony
in a
miniature portrait of
a poor slave,
by
visit
made
to
Moscow.
was
88
CHAP,
V.
MOSCOW.
indeed a surprising work.
The
effect
produced
trinket-
was
like that of
a diminishing lens.
The Birmingham
imitations
manufactory,
where
of
precious
with
so
much
cheapness,
is
surpassed
is
in
Moscoiu;
equally
But the great source of wonder is in the manner of their execution. At Birmiyigham, they result in Moscow, from the labour of many persons
;
yet the
dif-
in the
In Moscow, imitations of
gold
chains
were
is
any person,
This
cutlery;
is
regard
to
their
more
the
They
fail
therefore
in
hardware
imitating
works they import, but because they cannot afford to sell them for the same price. Where
a patent, as in the instance of Bramalis locks, has
article in
England beyond
the Russians
would otherwise
it
find,
have imitated
MOSCOW.
original,
89
This exchap.
been also
picture
Rcmarka.
^'^
manifested in the
Fine Arts.
by was borrowed
by one of the Russian nobility from his friend. The owner of the picture had impressed his seal upon the back of it, and had inscribed it
with verses and mottoes of his
own composition. Having so many marks, he deemed his picture But a copy so perfect was safe anywhere.
both as to the painting, and to
in
all
finished,
the
circumstances of colour
when put
to
its
the
original frame,
and returned
owner,
and there
now
residinsr
artists'
in
Petershiirs;
and Moscoiu
respectability
foreign
of the
highest
and
talents
who
One
of them,
Camporesi,
assured us,
walking in the
in
and
dress victuals,
It
he
was a
(1)
Guarengld of Petershiirg,
anil
Campm-esi of Moscow,
Italian
go
MOSCOW.
painter in enamel, copying very beautiful pictures.
The same
person,
he added, might
in
a cellar,
beneath the
master.
in Russia,
is
Russian
is
either a
In the
when
instigated
by the rod of his master, and is cudgelled as often as his owner thinks proper. While employed
is
in
works of sculpture or
off*,
painting,
he
frequently called
to
mend
a chair or a
daub
falls,
When
evening
Avhich
if
is
not the
way
all
to educate artists.
But
work, than
to
become
intoxicated
this
he does whenever he
soon a
'pi^e
upon a ground-floor.
The
con-
MOSCOW.
without climbino- a
flio-ht
91
is
of stairs,
almost
chap.
V.
peculiar to England-,
exceptions,
as
in
the Palais
Royal at Paris,
and
an
in a
The
catalosrue
of Russian authors in
octavo
volume
as
it
French,
Italian,
German,
numerous here as
any other
who prohibit the sale of books, from own ignorant misconception of their conSometimes a
single volume,
is
page, of an author,
of the work,
sold.
There
The number
of prohibited books
is
so great,
ruined.
Contraband publicais
so imminent,
that
respectable booksellers
arising
.
.
from the
.
state of
Literature.
two
cities,
which
number of
92
MOSCOW.
many
whereas at Petersburg
all all
who
belong to the
known.
The
and
or
many
of them, formerly
in this city;
and
have withdrawn
to
their
seats
in
its
environs.
libraries
;
Many
of
and, as the
sump-
When
a Russian
is
commonly a novel;
licentious trash in
Of
Italian
'
of Mrs. Raclcliffe
;
because,
in
and
said,
who succeeded Zoritz in the of Catherine the Second. This man sent for a bookseller, " Fit me vj) a handsome lib) art/ little hook^ above, and great
the Guards,
:
ones below."
MOSCOW.
is
93
Jones,'
'
made
to translate
'
Tom
The Vicar
of Walejield^ or any of our inimitable original pictures of English manners, the effect is ridiSquire Western culous beyond description. becomes a French Philosopher, and Goldsmith's
chap. V
/'
Books of
of Moscoiu.
Libraries of
from
rare,
their
are
never
volumes,
to
be found.
Costly
and
frivolous
sumptuously bound,
and
Gaudy
attract
the
the
Russian amateurs.
mag-
of useful literature.
among
smelling like
may we
copy of the
Encijclo-
more
for ostentation
than
hi
MOSCOW.
for use,
'
CHAP,
may
Equipages.
Moscow
is
might pronounce
teresting
;
to
be
dull, dirty,
and unin-
would
If the
affirm, that
inhabitants
be estimated by
pages, and the
each,
the earth.
who would be
:
seen
the gene-
have
is
six.
in
which
this
pomp
upon
stateliness.
placed as postillions,
woods
(0 The
library of
Count
different character;
make
the ex-
IVIOSCOW.
a
05
chap.
less
To
o-ive &'
greater effect to
this,
it
the
traces of
the
requires considerable
management to preserve the horses from being entangled, whenever they turn the corner of Notwithstanding a street, or when they halt. this, no stranger, however he may deride its
absurdity,
will venture to visit the nobles,
if
he wish
coachman and
his
Wives
of
their
in droskies,
ficient to
of
tradesmen,
are
during
seen
the
season
Costume.
festivals,
driving
about
purchase a peerage.
preserving, at the
same
costume,
This
costume
is
worn, and as
much
otherwise
when
falls
it is
not.
The shawl
feet.
in thin
The
celebrated
Pallas
gave
to
us a
Q(3
MOSCOW.
tradesman, with an old duenna, or nurse,
>
CHAP,
^-
who
was
is
found
in
ahnost
every family.
It
executed by his
artist, Geisler.
With
that good
women
neated,
own
a scenic representation,
of the drama,
are, the Professor
in
and
his JVife.
Amusement
Thc amusemcnts
children
;
that
is
for in Paris
similar
men
being
wooden
be
the
a better reason
may
want of such
fairs.
wakes
and
Certainly there
forty
no part of our
fifty
island
where men of
and
years of
same
into
are
whirled
scream
for
joy,
infants
MOSCOW.
tossed in the nurse's arms.
the present King of the T2V0
97
Some
Sicilies
years ago,
chap.
'
was accus-
<
rbnpei of
the Trrrschnia.
Moscow,
before
there
is
a
all
small
open
sanctuary,
which, at
hours of the
We
An
to
and
to
enter
temple.
old
man
after
with a long
numerous
who, immediately
bu^ang the
them before a picture of the Virgin luith the Bleeding Chech. The place was filled with a variety of pictures of Saints and Martyrs: but there were two of the Virgin,
candles, placed
larger than the rest, facing the street
:
one of
them
is
by
an angel; which causes the extraordinary devotion paid to this picture in particular
;
although
there be
many such
which reference
silver,
is
to
in
set
I.
of
VOL.
98
MOSCOW.
various magnitude.
It
has
great
it
celebrity,
is
supposed
restoring
have wrought,
kinds upon
of
all
worshippers.
this picture,
the
same
instant
may
be observed
be found
hours.
to visit
it
in the short
of this
would be indeed a miracle, if, out number, one or two did not occasionally
It
relief,
experience
wished-for change
if
thousand
is
wide
and the
Upon
itself
has
witnessed.
The
a
in
a forest;
dream
of a cross
MOSCOW.
of a pied horse, or the veins in a piece of flint
or marble); in short, whatsoever represents, or
is
'
99
chap.
supposed
their
to resemble,
to
objects,
tees,
might
occasion
of a
devo-
marketsilver-
and
Diana at
Ephesus.
circumstance
so
1
likely
/
has
frequently
re-
Artificcofa
happened.
Merchant.
dug up, some years ago, with the supposed body of a Saint, in the interior of the empire, eastward of the city. The throng to this coffin, from all parts, became immense;
a coffin to be
the blind were, as usual, healed
their crutches
;
culous cures
the other
was moreover
passionate
;
was very was angry at being disturbed; and insisted upon having a church
said,
that he
A
of
when news
100
CHAP,
^
MOSCOW.
be shut.
''
done, and to
much
as possible) that
which she would not have done, caused it to be again opened although it were well known
;
after the
church
at,
Much
after the
in
upon the
earliest
intelligence
of
its
arrival.
Assassina-
to
;
be
re-
but the
Arch'*''^'"
prelate,
beingin-
humanly put
The
late
Empress,
in
it
to
him
(0 Paul
burg-,
new
Saint.
Lett. 94.
'
MOSCOW.
All that has
101
^'^^'^^
'
of
is
of the
Greek Church.
human
reason,
The who
be
which he believes
light,
the
source of
life
and
exercises
more
is
who
Bogh,
all
his
and
of
Motive for
^hl,,
farthing
candles
near
in
a
the
picture
Alexander Nevsky.
But
adoration
F^irgins,
paid
by
this
^T'
we may
"^*"''^''-
character.
parasite, or
offer to a court
is
same
tives.
principle
and
Deity,
and a
their
despot,
removed from
view
All
admit of any
petitions,
immediate
applications.
their
by channels
observation.
102
MOSCOW.
of the Russian government, and the adoration
of
Saints
the whole
is
of
their
rehgion.
The
for-
Sovereign
to his parasites;
Resemblance be-
^s wc livod iu some degree of intimacy with many of the Russian nobility, their manners and
'
.
,,
Oi
ail
blance
the
Neapolitans.
The
nobles
of
those of
This similitude
may
arise
from a similarity of
despotic,
government,
vicious
and
ignorant
and
superstitious.
The same
and
character prevails
in their
mode
of
dress.
tala
;
The
barina differs
little
women
;
near Moscoiv,
with
short,
the
same
;
sort of shoes
the
dress
the
same embroidered
in
May
explained
the costume of
;
Magna
and the
art of
MOSCOW.
the class of the nobles, the
rior to
103
are far supe-
women
the
men; they
the
to
complished
men
are
destitute of every
in
qualification
render them,
the eyes of
esteem.
It
is
that
ladies of rank in
bands
especially
if
lately offered
them
in their
Empress Catherine
Indeed,
it is
be taken
ficult
into consideration.
dif-
to conceive
how
'
Married, without
self-love
of their
parents,
men
wedlock; subjected
who
neither
afford
good
examples
social
to
their
children, nor
to themselves
any source of
;
enjoyment
who
the
women
of Moscow
as superior indeed
imprisonment
in
a convent, but as
" MuHerum
tatis in aedibus
usurpant
Bat. 1630,
104
CHAP,
MOSCOW.
a joyful deliverance, in the death of their hus-
Every one acquainted with the real history of the Empress Catherine, and with her
bands.
will
picture
of the
state
of female
The wives
of
the nobles,
it is
true,
husbands
gether
but the
ties
disregarded.
This
commuby any
The Reader
shall not
be offended, nor
purposes
the feelings
of individuals wounded,
neither
is
it
ceptions which
may be
given to
it
in
will not
be contradicted
in Russia.
sell
any thing he
;
from
any thing
to obtain
money
it
any
sur-
away.
court-
we were
with
prised
to
;
see
glass-cases
filled
dresses
and
for
still
more
as
sent to be
exposed
sale,
often
as
is,
any of them
to order
wanted money.
Their plan
goods
MOSCOW.
to
105
chap.
^
'
any amount
for for
credit; to
pay
We
it is
should
call
such
it
conduct,
in
England,
swindling.
In
Moscow
bears another
name
The children of those who murdered Peter m T r THE Third resided m Moscoiu when we were there one of them married the daughter of the Governor. The Princess Menzikof, granddaughter oi \he, favourite of Peter the Great, was also there we were often in her company and too much amused by her cheerful dispo
children
^^ Orlof,
sition,
indulges everywhere.
a proverb in Russia
allusion in Evic/ajid.
is
may
When
by
Petersburg.
there
per-
son, an archbishop,
buried him
as he
nument
or inscription,
the
church of the
monastery of
the
St. yllexander
Nevshy.
Orlof,
his
Rctribu.
tive Spirit
An
order from
Emperor brought
the bodies were
mm
to Petersburg; to the
and
of the
when
removed
^^^'^'
church
106 CHAP,
^
MOSCOW.
St.
Paul
in
the citadel
,
'
he was
compelled to walk
in the procession
from the
It
was then
beheld an
of them,
One
who was an
of
it
to us.
chariots,
of
by horses. Immediately after the coffin Peter the Third, and close to it, w^alked,
faltering
steps,
his
assassin,
Next
certainly mani-
by
this
sacrifice to the
manes of
The ceremony
in the Sout/i
of
Europe.
(l)
The
CHAP.
VI.
MOSCOW.
State of Exiles in Siberia
Tobohky Ge?ierous Ccndnct turned Pawnbroker Picture State of Medicine Manners of People Dealers Opinions entertained of English Relative CondiSlaves and Lords Noble Behaviour of of Count Golovkins Peasants Servants cf Nobility Nobles Convent of Theft committed by a Party of theNeiv Jerusalem New Prohibitions Public Censors Convent rf Trinity Church of Basil Ivan Basilovidi
of a Citizen
Prince
the
the
tion
their
the
the
the
St.
Tubervile's Letters.
Xn
England,
we
Siberia, as
and
we
concernmg the
108
CHAP,
V
MOSCOW.
state of exiles in that country.
J
To
a Russian
..,-1
punishment.
is
The consequence
of their journey
They have no
;
none of
an Englishman
in
banishment.
They
are
bound
by no strong
neither have
Toboisicy.
serving.
Tobohhy,
become a
of
of shops,
besides
other
places
Its inhabitants,
beer of
Endand.
gaiety and
population.
An
officer
of consi-
half of his
it
pay and
live
the whole of
in residence
at Petersburg.
This
is
no subject of wonder.
Gmelin,
Ac-
is
a very temple of
'
MOSCOW.
Bacchus and Indolence.
Provisions
lod
were
so
'
^"'^^V 1.
,
cheap when he was there, in the middle of the last century, that a person might maintain
himself for ten roubles a year
of our money.
tival'
;
much
is
difference
between the
Moscow
present.
and
in
at that time
and there
much
less at
CeneroiK Conduct of
^ citken.
in Moscow, attended
by a
trait
it
of so
much
gene-
is
a duty to relate
On Wednesday
No
the seventh of
May, the
Emperor
no offence was
The
of him, for he
and dan-
(1)
les plus
Quant an peuple,
cris,
il
6toit
comme
fou
ce
II
tumultes, batteries.
^toit difficile
de Wtes, et de tratneaux."
torn. I.
par Keralio,
et faire des
le
h.
p. 53.
" On
visites.
plus fut
Le peuple s'amusa K sa maniSre ; ce dont il s'occupa le commerce des filles publiques, qui ne sont pas rarcs
Je n'avois
vfi
Tobolsk.
ici."
Ibid. p. 67-
no
CHAP,
' ,
MOSCOW.
then prove,
'
the
inhabitants
crowded
to his
an humble
It
citizen,
''
was granted.
You
your
as
said
come
your banker."
thousand roubles!"
;
much more than you " Twenty-five much ? The honest fellow with'
drew and speedily returning with notes to the amount of the sum specified, placed them upon the table, carefully counting them over then
;
made
his
bow, and
retired.
nxrned
^^
name
of Camporesi,
Pawnbroker.
procured ^
tures,
admission
a
for
us
at the
house of
Prince Trubetzkoy,
hosiery,
hats, cutlery,
in
and of museums.
man
His
selling,
himself and
whatsoever came
in his
way.
A
was
Any
thing might
MOSCOW.
be bought of
the
his Excellency,
Ill
from a
pair of
chap.
In
antique
vases,
flowers, fans,
Co-
saddles,
bridles,
pipes,
second-hand
"
My
who
we
entered,
" and
all it
contains,
will
at
it
one's else,
buy
will sell
you the
house
me
It was to L. sent a note, which he read aloud. " Here's a man," said Prince borrow money.
roubles in his
to
drawing-room, sends to
me for forty-five,
pay
You
see
how we go on
in Russia.''
The number
astonishing.
dealers,
Picture
Dealer--.
who have
is
The
filled,
many
of
them
It
and there
to sell
as
if
seems
supply
to
112
CHAP,
VI.
MOSCOW.
At first view, a room adorned by them has an imposing and very splendid appearance but, upon a nearer approach, the charm vanishes they are almost all copies, and
such collections.
;
:
of them were brought from But the Russians themselves are so ingenious in the art of imitation, that a nobleman of skill avid judgment in painting has been
Vienna,
known
made a who
more usual daily occupation of blacking shoes, and afterwards carried to the brandy-shop the wages of his ingenuity. As the nobles have rarely any went from
his
easel to his
money
Arts,
at
command,
in
as
other things,
carried
is
on by
exchange.
that in
which
They purchase
their physician
pay
with a snuff-box.
infantine
same
disposition
displayed
and, like
children, they
in the
become
In
gaudy frames
of
!"''
to
The works
Van
"
MOSCOW.
Berchem, and Gerhard Douw, bear the highest
prices;
113
^^^/J^^'-
but
if
cast,
however
sublime,
any value
in
their
estimation.
The
beautiful
head by
Corregio,
not
in
many
which
an
artist
London,
hands
of a Russian priest.
time, because he
He
kept
it
during a short
it
had been
told
was a
celeit
brated work
"
for
some wretched
painter.
*'
had too much shade," he said, and the lights were too pale it had the air
It
;
altogether
The
method of paying
to the faculty
but
it
is
Dr. Rogerson
at Petersburg, as
we were
informed, regularly
received his
it
again to the
his
box again
and
became
it
114
MOSCOW.
parties as a sort of bank-note,
CHAR
^
and no words
it.
were necessary
State of
filedicme.
Havino; mentioned the name of this respectable ^ ^ physician, it may be well to say something of
business of an accoucheur
is
women.
the mid-
we
left Peters-
is
he
may
die
certainly
would not
Moscow,
attend.
In Petersis
twentyor
in
only
one
two.
in
;
apothecaries'
but generally
(l)
remedy almost
unwholesome marshes
hot
MOSCOW.
they are Scotch apothecaries,
professional
riority.
skill,
iir>
who
are
men
of
riiAP.
,
y.
>
but when
is
this
cau-
may
With few
neither
among
among
by circumThose Ens:the
who bear
name
of
in their
own
country
The
iManners
People.
travelling
passion
its gratification.
Some
of
them
either useful or in
any
degree
from
I2
;:
116
MOSCOW.
England.
'
-^
^^rf^,
Books,
maps,
prints,
furniture,
clothing,
it is
must be deconsidered as of no
Some
much
;
richer
and a
riches,
may be
To
this poverty,
and to those
they are
sian, of
all
equally barbarous.
Visit a Rus-
whatsoever rank,
will find
at his country-seat,
him lounging about, with his and you collar open, uncombed, unwashed, unshaven, half-naked, eating raw turnips, or drink ng The raw turnip is handed about in qicass. slices, in the first houses, upon a silver salver, with brandy, as a whet before dinner. Their
hair
is
and
vermin
these
when they
occasions,
frequent the
their shirts
bath.
Upon
vermin
to fall off'.
It is
paign
common
their camps.
MOSCOW.
meanest
all
"
117
chap.
slave,
princes, nobles,
priests,
individual in a thousand
infested.
whose body
is
not thus
The
true
Some
letters of
travelled,
their
which
imitate.
friends
But the genuine Russian rises at an early hour, and breakfasts on a dram with black bread.
His dinner, at noon, consists of the coarsest and
most greasy food, the scorbutic effects of which are supposed to be counteracted by pickled cucumbers, by sour cabbage, by the juice of his vaccinium, and by his nectar guass. Sleep, rendering him unmindful of his abject servitude and of his barbarous life, he particularly indulges; sleeping always after eating, and going
early to his bed.
the
The principal articles of diet are same every^vhere grease and brandy. The
is
and there
approach,
that an English
if
would venture
its condition.
to
he were aware of
nobles, the race
Among the
is
118
CHAP,
MOSCOW.
of those servile beings who, at the pleasure of
many
dogs.
The
reign of
their
Catherine did not suffice to elevate minds from the depravity always incident
Under Paul, they again experienced indignities similar to those which had been offered to their forefathers. Potemkirii
to a state of slavery.
remember what their condition was originally, by inflicting blows upon any prince or nobleman with whom he chanced to be oftended and the Emperor Paul ventured to chastise the nobles who were his officers Under such government, if we find them servile, oppressive, cowardly, and tyrannical, it is no more than may be expected,
to
:
'.
disci-
they
in
undergo.
the
They
will
naturally
crouch
dust before
an
emperor, or
and
Note
1. in p,
47.
"
omne
libertatis
placida
si
prematur.
;
se servire
illi
non
est in
suorum Ottomanorum
sceptrum."
MOSCOW.
They
people
fear
;
119
chap.
them
or court them,
if
entertained
of their support.
One
%f^''^''''
own
table,
to dine,
and were
by the
there
is is
England
who
not
highest
bidder.'^
Wilkes, Gibbon,
adding,
Russian.
to the
*'
English slavery
less justifiable
One
is
selfishness
laws"
It is
Russia, like
many
^
other evils,
-^
in
Relative
may be somenobleman be
for in that
Condition o{ slaves
Lords.
If the
In
^
In case of acci-
dents from
fire,
if
the nobleman
But when, as
prietor
their
is
man
situation is
law into
own
hands, and
120
CHAP.
^
MOSCOW.
'
live in cities,
remote
altogether unmindful
except the
of the
tribute
the
Many
own
villages,
survey,
it
is
soothing
any worthy
a few short
traits
moments
repose.
Some
noble
slaves.
Thc
.
father of
Peasants,
consequcuce
of the
debts contracted in
the
service
Crown.
Upon
the
this
occasion,
deputies
chosen
among
slaves
came
to
One
were
number
be so dismissed.
'*
Count,
am
in
the deputies.
rejoined the
About
"
thirty thousand
roubles,''
Count.
God
help us
Do
not
sell
us
we
will
MOSCOW.
Peter the Third was a greater
friend to the
all
121
^^ft^VI.
and degrading
discipline of
Peter
them from
;
he per-
and
to settle
in other countries
in short,
he gave them
their benefactor.
The swarm
this
can be maintained.
fifty
a noble-
man have
wages,
if
called,
rarely ex-
ceed
in their
tance
copeeks
equals
about
five
roubles,
forty-seven
and a
we were
there,
may be
About a
copeek
and a
half.
122
CHAP.
MOSCOW.
But small as
omitted
nobles
;
tliis
it is
sum
is,
it
for
never paid.
to
Few among
owe
is,
the
deem
it
any disgrace
a debt.
their ser-
vants so
trivial
There
in fact,
no
To enumerate
all
we end
with one.
Remarkable llieft.
A hat had
The
some
young noblemen, who had been more lavish of their friendship and company than we desired,
to the
chambers
in
with
some other moveables even of less value. The fact was inconceivable, and we gave no credit to it. A few days after, being upon an excursion to the Convent of the
five
versts
New
Jerusalem, forty-
to
whom our
overtook us on horseback.
One
racer,
of the party,
and habited
of our carriage
unruly, he lost his seat, and a gust of wind carried off his cap.
The
author's
companion imme-
MOSCOW.
diately descended,
123
it
and ran
to recover
for its
^";J^-
owner
own name, and the name of his hatter, It was no other than the idenon the hning tical hat which had been stolen by one of them from our lodgings, although now metamorceive his
!
phosed
it
into a
cap
and, under
its
altered shape,
for the
The
convent of
Jerusalem.
been carried
salem:
this
building
but
it
contains representations of
all
the relics
(1)
The
writings of one whose pages confirm every characteristic of the Rxissians given in this
work,
will
shew how
ment
and
also to
vice of stealing
is
" Next
officer,
to drunkenness, the
is
the Russians
theft
From the
and
cheats
v/hich
apartments
at Court, to
officers are
admitted,
of
your pocket-look
Sweden,
officers,
after
them
be
stole a plate
all to
distributed
silver."
among
270.
124
CHAP,
VI.
MOSCOW.
consecrated in that edifice.
after the
It
was
built exactly
'
same model; and within it are exhibited, The tomb of Christ, The stone rolled from The holes luhere the crosses of our the sepulchre
f
confined
toge-
ther with
Empress Helena and her ignorant priests by Finding, however, some diffeat Jerusalem. rence between the original building in the Holy Land, and its model here, we asked the reason of the alteration. The monks replied, " Our building is executed with more taste, because and there are many it is more ornamental;
the
.-"
thus
at
beauty, than
in
it.
effect, to
empty
claim,
reverence
which
relics
may
but
A fat and
Here
some
claims, "
while boorish
MOSCOW.
genuine as the drops that
fall
125
chap.
VI.
Within
figure,
cell, to
The
to
wooden
is
impossible
is
view
it
without laughter.
;
This image
as
large as
life
and
it is
Messiah in
his
and
The
'
and an antient
exhibited,
:
Jerusalem
it
is
modem
for
paintings
now manufactured
was probably one of the original models of the art. The dome of the building may be esteemed among the finest works of architecture in the
country.
It
is
lighted
in
a very pleasing
manner.
The expense
of
its
completion has
roubles, or
been rated
at thirty-eight
thousand
to
we
is
it
have been
much
of
greater.
lead, she^vn
Judas Iscariot
copies of a
of course,
at
similar
pretended
relic
Jerusalem.
The
valued
dresses of the
priests,
One
126
CHAP,
MOSCOW.
at twenty-four thousand roubles.
Some modem
are shewn,
Manuscript Bib
presented
es,
in
th^
Russian language,
late
in
Empress,
The approach
in a pleasing
to this
Convent
is
by a
gentle
It is situate
country
to it
was once
fortified
We were
presented
exception,
Latin,
we
ever beheld.
He spoke
to us in
their great
whose portrait we had seen in the church, and who rose from the lowest
patriarch Nicon,
station to the high office he held.
After his
of
husband
and wife
When we
inhabitants
prohibitions.
returned to Moscow,
in
we
found the
murmuring
consequence of new
appeared, forbidding
An ukase had
"
MOSCOW.
the importation of any kind of foreign
rature
music,
:
127
lite-
chap.
'
a vehicle of science.
Some
notion
may be
public
Public
^""^""^
by a
The
Every
Wherever
refe-
was
instantly
to
condemned.
its
If the
word
in
'
Riga'
chanced
the leaf
make
appearance
any book
single page,
was
torn out.
In this
manner they
voyages
they came.
That the Russians have talents, no one will deny but they dare not display them. Since the death of Catherine, it seemed to be the wretched policy of their Government to throw
;
way
of intellectual im-
Genius became
a curse to
its
Apathy,
;
truth
128
CHAP,
v.
MOSCOW.
and science,
author of
'
The
Man
nesses of Toholshy^.
prohibitions
The number
it
of Paul's
became
so numerous, and
many
of
to
them were
I
so trivial, that
was necessary
/the
/
f
things.
memory by Some
pocket-catalogues of forbidden
of these
fear.
prohibitions
excited
resemblance
name than
Mops.'
Ivory-
being reserved solely for the use of the military. These, and
many
Convent of
'
Thc CouveM of
miles
the
is
Trinity,
distant forty
from Moscoiv,
worth seeing,
(l)
The unfortunate
He was made a
cal Inquisition
Russian merchants
hour.
MOSCOW.
Rather more than two miles farther
contains within
is
129
another
it
At
a small
This ex-
archbishop of Moscow,
who
The
place
is
called Bethany.
edifice, as
.
it
affords church
of
oi national
r.
St, Basil.
manners,
is
the
Chufch of
ing;
St. Basil,
It is
in build-
and was erected by Ivan Basilovich the Second, in 1538. To add to the singularity of its
it
was the workmanship of Italian architects. Its numerous and heavy cupolas, surmounted by gilded crucifixes, exhibit a striking
history,
Pious indivi-
dome, according
it is
so that
likely to
for
many
130
CHAP,
VI.
MOSCOW.
,
we must
look back to
The
stories
in
of the monarch
is
whose piety
investigation.
The more we
Russia,
inquire into
we
shall
variation since
Peter the Great the beards of the nobles, and subfor Asiatic robes;
European habits
is still
but the
inward man
(l)
is
the same'.
Russian of the
related of
of
They who knew Potemhin, or who will merely attend to what him in page 18, will find that a picture of the manners Russian Arables made in the seventeenth century will equally repre1
"
Pendant
le
I'odeur de I'eau-de-vie, de
ne
portent point leurs mouchoirs dans leurs poches, mais dans leurs
bonnets
a table,
et
s'ils
comme
ils
lorsqu'ils
sont
ont besoin
se
servent de leurs
la
nappe."
1
Voyage en
Baron deMayerburg, Leid. 688, />. 62. Olearius, secretary to the ambassador from the Court oi Denmark,
The
at Paris, A.
D. 1666.
les
;
"
ils
II est
vray que
si
mais
I'employent
pour
MOSCOW.
nineteenth century possesses all the servile propensities, the barbarity of
181
<"TtV^r'-
the hypocrisy, and the profligacy, which characterized his ancestors in the ninth.
pour
le
but
la vertu, et la gloire,
Leur
ne se ser-
ou
il
ils
Voyage d'Olear.
torn. I.
p.
45.
" Et
soavent mer-
qualiti's, aussi
bicn que de la
calomnie."
Ibid. p. 146.
" De
du peu de
fidelite qu'ils
s'y peutjier.
a dessein
La mauvaise
ils
nesse, en laquelle
n'apprennent au plus
fait qu'ils
;
suivent aveuglement ce
que
I'on appelle
aux bestes
I'instinct
en
elle
mesme
pourquoy
Ibid.
" Le
ils
font que I'on est contraint de les traiter en bestes, plustost qu'en
personnes raisonnables.
Et
55.
ils
y sont
si
comme
It
is
au
employe
le foiiet
et le baston."
modern
history.
les
" On
se
tromperoit beau-
"
si
pour connottre
<jt6
Russes d'aujourd'hui, on
le
faits
com-
nwncement de
Introd.
h VHistoire Moderns,
tome IV,
; :
132
MOSCOW.
John Basilovich
the First
Empire
till
but his accession did not take place middle of the fifteenth century.
although described as a
the
He
arose, like
man
of impetuous vices,
city of a savage, he
The Great'
It is
a title which an
themselves being obliged to stand in the presence of Tahtar ambassadors while the latter
sat at
meat
but
and
to
ing ceremonies.
yoke
it
Russians,
whom
in
They had
manners,
own
all,
every thing
buildings,
short,
Basilovich, at
was solemnly crowned with the diadem of that kingdom this is said to be the same now used for the coronation of
:
Moscow was
again
taken
by the
MOSCOW.
Tahtars,
133
and
its
nious tribute.
cious
and
implacable
came
to
the
throne \
It is
a curious
fact, that, in
were arrested in the town of Lubeck. What the great work then carrying on in Moscow
Russia,
was,
is
now
uncertain; but
it
evidently proves a
disposition,
long-established
Some
Oriental
customs of his
(l)
The Editors
has
of the
(Vol.
Modern
XXXV.
;
his character
it
been misrepresented
*'
(Trav.
302.)
would be
contrary to his-
torical evidence to
If the horrible
(see
Account of Muscovy f
of his enormities
^. 33
1 .
will
be
who were
" But
many
may
glut,
if
not
drowne himselfe
written of his
in bloud, in
life,
unjust acts.
I will
cannot
I list
dis-
prove
it
adversaries perhaps
make
the worst.
For myselfe,
not
if I
found
all historic
Purchas
134
people.
Ill
MOSCOW.
this reign
was
built the
church to
which we have now alluded. The artists arrested in Luheck were Germmis. The architects employed for the Church of St. Basil were Italians;
probably obtained by the connexion which subsisted
Emperors of Constantinople^
From whatever
How much
the
manners of the people were so at this period, may be shewn by reference to the curious and interesting documents preserved in Hakluyfs
was during the bloody administration of the tyrant who then ruled in Russia that the first ambassadors went
Collection
of
Voyages.
It
By
the accounts
Englishmen
in Russia
same disgusting race around them; the same dread of being communicative in their letters; the same desire to quit a scene of
barbarity and profligacy.
(0 Some
years afterwards,
The
secretary to
stating, that
" he
them from France and Italy, hut that he Germans; knowing them to be an upright,
See the authors cited
in
the Mod.
Univ. Hist.
vol.
XXXV. p. 217.
MOSCOW.
Randolph,
135
who went
as ambassador from
Queen
^Ifi^^'-
^n
'
^*
in Verse," Lmers!
to Dancie, Spenser,
He
ap-
man
of fashion at
We
They
are very
little
Reader's attention;
(2)
"
left
my
man,
:
And unacquainted
of the coast,
among
Folke
to be of
is
their kinde.
" Such
But
chiefly
The
rest
is
Mead
" Their
call,
Unlesse
The house
Is
not to be resorted
that roofe
is
full of
sinne."
5.
He then
their
lives of
the
women, and
to Spenser, he says,
beastly bee.
write not
if I
all I
know,
For
**
should,
my penne would
* *
gives
feare.
They
paw
And
so
Ibid. p. 387i
III
136
CHAr.
V.
-
MOSCOW.
prove that Russia, when they were wfitten,
'
appeared as
it
does at
this day,
but also as
The
work
rare,
in
is
extremely
price.
Indeed
that
we
are
maintaining,
any
who
In his Letter to Parker, the Tahtar dress and manner are thus strikingly introduced
A cap
Which Colpack they do terme. They weare no ruflFes at all The best have collers set with pearle, which they Rubasca call.
Their shirts
in Russie long,
And on the
" These
m
are the Russies robes.
*
richest use to ride
The
his side.
Their bridles are not very brave, their saddles are but piaine. *
" For when the Russie is pursued by cruel foe, He rides away, and suddenly betakes him to his boe. And bends me but about in saddle as he sits. And therewithal! amids his race his following foe he hits.
Their bowes are very short, like Turhie bowes outright.
in
" The maners are so Turkic like, the men so full of guile. The women wanton, temples stuft with idoles that defile
The
As
In
seats that sacred
if I
feare
my pen
would
faint.
say,
and
vaine.
387389
'
MOSCOW.
or the
13/
will
prove
chap.
'
now
<
The
leading testimony
is
by no
last
means favourable
tants.
century,
when
Peter the Second, and the marriage of the late Empress Catherine with the husband whose murder Voltaire found it impossible to methodize^, the insecurity of property, the total want of
public faith, the ignorance and the rudeness of
De Manstein
;
stuattri-
diously avoided
all
opprobrious reflections
information strangers,
dence, which
may
we have
(1)
Memoirs of
Rttssia
in the Prussian service. These Memoirs contain a history of Russia from the year 1727 to the year 1744.
(2) See the
(S) *'
They were
in the other
Courts of Europe."
Supplement
to
Memoirs,
Ibid.
i)'c.
(4)
138
^^^1'"^
MOSCOW.
given of the Russians; especially after the high
'
reign
fell
undeserved
property,
fate,
De
Manstein
were given
In this
them long.
in
Europe.
The same
author,
want of cleanliness
"The
richest coat
uncombed wig
or
were nothing amiss in the dress, the equipage would be deficient. A man richly dressed would come to Court in a miserable coach, drawn by the wretchedest hacks."
tailor; or, if there
(1)
Hume
the incidents he has related, and speaks of the avithor's candour, good
sense,
and impartiality.
See
Advertisement
to
the
Memoirs sig-md
Memoirs of Russia,
p. 256.
MOSCOW.
The same want
of taste reigned in the furniture
139
On
one side
;
silver in
heaps
on the
dirtiness.'"
And
then he adds*,
It
was enough
commodities
happened both
in Petersburg
and
in Moscoiu.
(4)
Memoirs
of Russia, p..248.
PLAN of MOSCOW;
KREMLIN, avd
TUven Moscva
Niglina,
and Yousa.
CHAP.
Sunday Market
VII.
Promenades during Easter Kremlin Great Bell-^Great GunAntient Palace Holy Gate Tsars Imperial Treasury Manuscripts Superb of Kremlin Model General appearance of Church of
the
MOSCOW.
the
First
Christian
Festival
the Ascension.
CHAP.
VII.
Sunday
Market.
he market on a Sunday in Moscmv is a novel and entertaining spectacle. From five in the
Jl
morning
till
spa-
filled
with a
coming
MOSCOW.
of
all
141
singing-
chap.
v.
.
in short,
whatso-
ever chance or
saleable.
The
sellers,
of singing-birds, which
large,
in their hands.
mob by
the
in their flight.
The
nobles of Moscow
:
take great
sell
delight in
five to
pigeons
from
We
were surprised
birds, let
pleasure.
the
air,
by a
When
launched,
if it
do not continue
at the
is
same
his
line of
waving
its
same time
wand,
and then
course
immediately changed.
During these
money
in
make
in
so doing.
Among
142
MOSCOW.
we
which
like size
is
common
in Russia,
the Newfoundland breed, but of amazing and height; this kind of dog is used in
German pug-dogs,
we were
sum
equivalent to an English
We
is
in Moscoiv
the
dog
sell at
and
to
much
admired.
Seeing
several
stalls
we approached
in
examine
its
quality,
finding that
consisted of large
among the eggs, and upon the clothes who sold them. Both the e^^^ and the
brought to Moscow as food
for nightin-
common, singing
every respect as wild and pleasing, when confined in cages, as in their native woods.
We
often heard
them
in
MOSCOW.
with
all
143
chap.
VII.
^
,
its
natural state'.
song,
is
The
price of a nightingale, in
full
about
fifteen roubles.
The
Russians,
by
rattling
beads
can
arithmetic'^,
make
day
:
night,
making the
The promenades at this season of the year are among the many sights in Moscow which are interesting to a stranger. The principal promenade is on the first of May (Russian style),
in a forest near the
city.
it is
It
affords a very
frequented by the
nobles,
well as
by the
and the
its
national costume
may
then be observed in
greatest
splendour.
The procession
of car-
riages and persons on horseback is immense. Beneath the trees, and upon the greensward,
by shouting and by
balalaika,
tumultuous songs.
(1)
feeding nightingales
(2)
becoming prevalent
in our
own
country.
which appears
Antients.
144
MOSCOW.
'
^vn^
all
The wives
of merchants,
and on
foot,
display head-dresses of
attire.
no difference
the
Moscow shopkeeper;
except
that
first
copies the fashions of London and Paris, while the other preserves the habit of her ancestors.
of
They are made in carriages and on horseback; the number of the former being
greater than any public festival assembles in
The
intention of such
;
meeting
is
of course the
same everywhere
forming two
to
Equipages continue to
lines,
which move parallel to each other. Beautiful women, attired in expensive but becoming dresses, fill the balconies and windows of the houses between which all this pageantry moves
towards
ofiicers
its
destination.
are
meanwhile stationed
different
When
arrived at the
amazement
singularly
beholds some
objects
which
are
MOSCOW.
contrasted with the splendour of the cavalcade;
145
chap.
and among
and wooden
On
promenade
plain called
better selected:
Vallte,
it is
then on a
La
is
At last the great scene opens, and the view which breaks all at once upon the spectator is indeed
can scarcely
striking.
move\
reach,
is
Not
less than
riages, generally
(l)
It
may
as that
gentleman has made very particular inquiry upon the subject, and
zealous attention to accuracy appears in everj' statement.
his
The
circuit of
stated
it
may,
It is
many
void spaces.
The population
is,
as usual, exaggerated.
we
nearly, as
The may be
seen by the Plan, twelve to one; and yet, from the master of the
police, of all
men
mated
at
The
servants and
numerous
may
in
winter."
MS.
Jouriud.
VOL.
I.
146
CHAP,
',
MOSCOW.
never less than four, are present
occasion.
upon
this
So much
The
all
description.
The pos-
men
of a woful aspect,
cocked hats
whip and
reins as if they
so employed.
The
in Poland,
The
carriages
themselves,
almost
are
It is
as filthy as the
ill-built,
night-coaches of London,
old-fashioned, heavy,
and ugly.
or
only the
affords
any
wealth
grandeur.
Examined
mean.
is little
and
the plain
and then
the order in
which
it
advanced.
space
their
glish
is
who make
they
all
maintain, a
resemblance to
the
manner of Englishmen.
MOSCOW.
tinue to pace and
147
bit,
champ
the
without ad-
CHAP.
VII.
^1
.-'
vancing a step
exhibited in ampitheatres
in laced coats
and
ruffles,
tume,
in their
servants' habits;
others clothe
running footmen in
by such a
motley appearance
very amusing.
The numberless
ling
and
tolling,
or order.
The
when
murmur
vibrates
all
This bell
Belfry
is
suspended
Ivan,
in a
of
St.
though of
enormous.
;
It is
sixteen
and
it
(l)
3551
Russian pouds.
Voyage de Deux
Franfciis,
tome
III.
p. 295.
148
MOSCOW.
fj^i-^Q
CHAR
^
Kremlin
is,
above
all
.^
'
worthy a
traveller's notice.
walk, whenever
we
could escape
engagements of society.
from
this place
The view
Tower.
It is
surrounded on
all
sides
by
walls,
is filled
with domes
and steeples.
Its
appearance
differs in
every
contains.
Entering this
by an arched
which
tion are
hundred paces.
to
it is
on the south
side,
The approach
by a
a vaulted Propylceum;
',
and over the entrance there is a picture before which a lamp is seen continually burning. Sentinels are here placed, as at all the entrances to
the Kremlin.
No
(l)
fosse.
On
d'ccil
the
left
hand
is
a noble view
down
to the river.
The whole
all
covp
Porter's Panorama.
hats are
taken
oflf,
in
who
delivered the
of Poles, which had possession of the town, and had almost succeeded
in-forcinsr this
MS.
Journal.
; ;
MOSCOW.
gate without taking off his hat*.
149
wished
to see if this
absurd rule
sentinel
any notice
Next, a
head covered, summoned the sentinels and people with very loud expressions of anger who,
;
seizing
in
him by the arms, very soon taught hini what manner to pass the Holy Gate for the
future.
of Moscoiv,
is in
known
to
be the
Great BcH.
of the Kremlin.
The history
a fable
be propagated.
The fact is, the bell remains in the place where It never was suspended it was originally cast.
the Russians might as well attempt to suspend
all
her guns
(2)
In
Holy Gate,
10.);
Entrance, before which a liussian crosses himself, will reirund him of die
to the tutelary
otroiTt^
Gods of
1391.
150
CHAP,
MOSCOW.
and
stores.
fire
became hot
guish the
when some
fire, fell
the
The
bell reaches
from the
to
bottom of the
The entrance
;
by a trap
door, placed
and beneath
the steps
We found
;
some being
fall
In consequence of
down
and
in
not frac-
was
The same
person,
it is
true,
might
in
mending the
mountain of
day
were broken.
metal.
It is
The
bell is truly a
While
it
was
in,
in
as
money.
We
endeavoured,
MOSCOW.
veneration, and they
grain to be
filed off.
151
be observed, that
would not allow even a At the same time, it maythe compound has a white
silvery
and perhaps
if
its
aspect strength-
ened,
chemical consti
On
ing
all
it
as they
would resort
to a
the
way
steps.
We
added
it
to
place,
render
We
went,
in
order to ascertain
To
visits,
half a
in the
whom we
found
agreed to assist us
It
in
ment.
suring what
is
152
MOSCOW.
the circumference of which
is
^y^^'
not entire.
No
this
would
aiford
;
still
greater dimensions
is
but it
entirely buried.
About ten persons were present when we measured the part exposed to observation.
We
From
the piece
that
lip,
off,
it
was ascertained
we had
or lower extremity.
obtained equalled
inches
;
and
four
five inches,
inch.
We
then
and found
statement
it
made by Hamuay
one
feet, four
which it should have received the blow of the hammer, its thickness equalled twenty-three inches. We were able to ascerpart, that in
tain this,
this is
above
of the bell.
The
if
weight of
valued at
this
been computed
to
MOSCOW.
^.66,565.
to
\6s. lying-
153
ch.ap.
'
any one'.
also
among
the
wonders of
facility
;
Great Gun.
we measured
with less
whom
ened to stab us
yet,
by walking
its
diameter
may be
Its lip,
is
guessed, because
it
will
admit a
man
of
middle stature
mouth.
never
moreover,
This gun
is
kept merely
for ostentation,
and
(1)
of
Moscow has
lone:
beon a theme of
wonder,
ject
is
mentioned
;
The sub-
of no importance
it
but
it
may be
given of
which he saw
mentioned
(See
this
107.)
Olear. torn.
same.
of
figure represented
Empress Anne, probably from the female which may have been intended for the Virgin.
measurement of the
bell, arc
too near the truth to suppose any other was described by him.
They
it,
He
moreover states
its
within an
He
it is
larger than
the famous
bell of
154
^^_4^-
MOSCOW.
used '.
rienced,
good order, without having sustained any damage. It was cast in 1694.
remains
in
at this
time prohibited
within
the
Kremlin.
Owing
to this circumstance,
we
are prevented
torn.
Deux
Franrais,
W.p. 296.
its
weight
is
in length,
and four
Eden's History of Travayles, as augmented by Jugge, in the hluck letter, at London, in 1577.
and ])rintedby
gathered out of
Paulas
Javius,
artillery in
Moscow
"
of certayne
\vith
Castle of Mosca."
MOSCOW.
giving the superb view
it
155
chap.
^
.-y.
'
we succeeded
view of the
.
window appears
(which
is
Antient Palace of
the Tsars.
in the
an irregular Gothic
pillars.
distin-
the
same
whence Demetrius,
in
his attempt to
fell,
escape,
and broke
He
low-
still
when
where the
and to
re-
sit,
The
petition
;
in the court
below
it.
and
The
:
Imperial treasure
now
in cases
is
by a
memorable
the
sister
for
Strelitzes,
of
reflection
Peter the Great. It is not a pleasing which some writers have urged, that
156
^vn^'
MOSCOW.
^^^ greatest atrocities, in times of anarchy or
by women.
monsters as were
hloody
Catherine de
Medicis,
the
late Revolution.
them
to
enormities.
defence
lected
and,
among
others,
col-
to disprove the
aspersions of Foltaire.
are, to
Compelled, as
we
often
illustrious
persons
made we may
of the
The unreasonableness
now
pretty generally
is
admitted
not
easily removed.
Crusades,
we
always branded
although their
borrowed from that people the first dawnings of civilization. A scene more
striking, as a subject for historical painting,
can
MOSCOW.
this
157
^^,^^'
staircase,
when
was supposed to work miracles, and leading young John Narishkin by the other, followed by his weeping sister and the
Virgin Mary, which
princesses, descended, calling on the infuriate
mob
to spare his
life.
;
put to death.
No
body
in pieces,
feet,
We
to the
ascended by
notice.
it
this blood-stained
It
passage
little
impciai
Imperial Treasury.
contains very
worth
care of
The
old General
who had
the
was obliged
ill
to attend in person,
it
when-
He was very
sat
during our
and, being
impatience.
The
in the
various
articles
have been
enumerated
we
were.
sove-
(l)
we were
in Russia.
It
Volume.
158
^y^^'
MOSCOW.
reigns of Russia at their coronation, and other
costly embroidered robes, thickly studded with
ornaments
of such
Among
number
worn was a vest, twelve yards by Catherine the Second. It was supported by twelve chamberlains at her coronation. The
dresses
in length,
practice
of exhibiting splendid
attire
characearliest
of their
potentates.
From
by the
it
Mary, we
find
was
and
the custom
but
when
the
by Henry Lane
to Sanderson\ describing
presence, in the year ]555, this circumstance is " They entred sundry particularly mentioned.
roomes, furnished
personages,
lours
;
in
all in
our
in
England,
(l)
Hackluyt,
vol.
I.
p.
465.
MOSCOW.
sutable with caps, jewels, and chaines.
These
were found
cuvites,
to
inhabitants,
other
credite, as
the
maner
wardrobe and
treasurie,
and so
to restore
it/'
Two
years
to
after.
England
M0SC02U.
As he and
leave
paring to
that
city,
wardrobe.
Having seen all his " goodly gownes," two of which are described " as heavie as a man
could easily carrie,
all
and
over, and the borders garnished with saphires and other good stones abundantly," they were
and told " that the Emperour would gladly bestow his money upon such things."
kingdoms are exhibited in the Treasury. We saw those of Casan, of Siberia, of Astracan, and of the Crimea. The last, from its simplicity, and the circumof conquered
The crowns
its history,
excited the
destitute
most
the
interest.
It
was
totally
of
of
riches
seen on
p. 31J).
all
the
Hackluyl, vol.1,
160
CHAP,
VII.
MOSCOW.
objects around
-^
^
it,
and
beinsr ^
emblematical of the
simplicity
it
and
whom
had been plundered'. Its form was very antient, and resembled, that usually given by
Alfred.
The
part of
a chamber
said,
Empress
AxxE and
in their
of
placed
thino's
Some
formerly
were shewn
to us
that
were
such,
now
for instance,
which
Cup-
the Tsars
combed
boards,
walls,
vases,
below the glass-cases covering the were filled with a profusion of goblets, plates, cups of all sorts^ basons, gold and
silver candlesticks,
and other
articles
of value,
A
a
silver contains,
upon
(1)
The
" Uue
autre
les
; :
MOSCOW.
vinces of the empire, collected
of Peter
161
by Alexis,
father
chap.
the Great, one of the best and wisest princes that ever sat upon the Russian There are also some pieces of methrone. chanism that would now be little esteemed
anywhere
ser-
its
deadly quality
masquerade dresses worn by their sovereigns and among these, a few natural curiosities
;
into
in the
same
in
latitude.
tusks of animals,
a fossile
form a considerable
of Russia.
commerce
up
nufactured at Archangel
in the north
of Russia.
The
is,
that, instead
may be wrought
in
with
all
but
this only
a latitude
VOL,
I.
where the
perpetually frozen
1C2
CHAP,
VII.
MOSCOW.
they have then been preserved, Uke the fishes
and other
articles of food
brought annually to
Those dug
found either
infiltrations,
What
a source of
wondrous reflection do these disIf frost alone have preserved coveries open them, they were frozen in the moment of their deposit; and thus it appears, that an animal peculiar to the warmest regions of the earth must, at some distant period, have been habituated to a temperature which it could not
!
now endure
for
an instant.
In the epistolary
mummery
therine with
and
it
difficult
to
say
man
or the arch-infidel
himself,
decade-, sometimes
(1)
by
insinuation,
and often
un
peu plus vieux que nos iiourrices ne nous le disent, c'est qu'on trouve dans le Nord de la SiWrie, k plusieurs toises sous terre, des osseineiis
d'tl^phans, qui depuis fort lon^-temps n'habitent plus ces contr^es."
J^tt.
de V Imperatrice a
//.
M.
de P^oUaii-e,
dans
les
CEuvres de
f^olt.
/omelxvii.
(2)
201.
Edit. 1785.
"
(^ui
pourrait
m'empechcr
de
>
MOSCOW.
by
direct entreaty,
If33
meanly courting an
invitation
*
chap.
to Petersburg,
which neither
inhabited
by the
Patriarchs,
and adjoining to
They
Several of
wooden
its
crucifix.
Among
Mary Magdalene
to us.
but
full
as magnificent as those
we had
;
gold
and
silver being:
de veDir dans
croissant.
les
le
;
N6tre
Madame
I'olt.
le
voyage dc Varsovie
pourquoi
d' Avril
n'entreprendrais-je
Lett, de
pas
celui
de
P^tersbourg
au
mois
?"
a V fvtperat.
Ibid. p. 49-
To which
pose
knowing the
Mm
to the
dangers of
so long
a journey.
"
it
niif
may happen, if things continue as they affairs may demand my presence in the
Ibid. p. 50.
southern prorinces oj
my
empire."
164
CHAP,
MOSCOW.
-w
'
upon them. Many were entirely covered with pearls, and otherwise adorned with emeralds,
rubies, diamonds, sapphires,
of Siberia.
stones
In smaller cabinets
in
we saw
onyx-
cameo work, exhibiting images of Jesus and of the Virgin ; these were not less than three inches and a half in length, and two in breadth. They shewed us, moreover, vessels
of massive silver,
oil
:
wrought
made
to contain consecrated
Greek churches.
Sixteen
Manu-
where
is
a collection of
;
and
Sclavonic
also
Manumore of the
the greater
By much
number
language.
The
priest
who had
in Latin;
the care of
affirming,
them
that
conversed with
us
among
works of
Virgil,
and one of
we
and
to his ignorance
We
Plato
bishop
upon the
same
subject;
who
MOSCOW.
assured us nothing of any importance existed
G.J
chap,
*>
among
those manuscripts.
to translate,
or pretended
v-
account he gave us can be relied on, the collection contains the Travels of Pilgrims to Jerusalem
in
upon
is
folio
copy of the
most beautifully transcribed by Anne, We were also shewn, as at Petersburg, some carving in wood by Peter the Great. This was a small
Gospels,
box, containing a
letter,
dated
697, sent
by him,
Mos-
from Sardam
cow.
to
make
?ii
facsimile
of his hand-writing
for this
was
jI\
Having obtained the keys from the secretary's office, we were admitted to see the famous
Model of
its
^J'^j
*'"^
J^f
^''*"^-
un.
the Kremlin,
Emit
press.
Moscow.
If the
166
CHAP,
MOSCOW.
would have been the wonder of the world.
architect
sian,
The
who
This model
cost
thousand
roubles.
who made
the estimillions
fifty
The
Em-
but,
it is
determined the
prosecution.
From
the
model
kept,
it
may be
be annihilated.
appear
;
Symptoms
fall.
might soon
his
be expected
When
he delivered
Fall in!
And what
if it does
F''
to unite the
whole Kremlin,
form, and
offered
triangular
it
the
number
of churches
contains,
(1) According- to
the Voyage de
structed by a
German joiner
of the
Bajamf, pupil
See tome
111. p.
237.
MOSCOW.
some
difficulties;
167
C'^ap.
'
complete.
Its
fronts
ornamented
with
/"-'
ranges of beautiful
pillars,
accordmg- to different
orders of architecture.
finished in the
Had the
it
Our
Camporesi spoke of
the
it
in
terms of equal
praise; but at
known
for his
works
different sentiments.
Guarenghi allowed
be,
it
to
be
grand, as
it
must necessarily
;
but thought
in
it
much orna-
many
of its parts.
The
g^"^*"^'
Appear^''^e of the
of the Kremlin, in
is
Kremlin.
It is difficult
it
derived.
lians^;
The
:
architects
is
were generally
Ita-
and Gothic
here
(2) Solarius oi
168
CHAP,
^s
MOSCOW.
ii^
some parts
is
richness,
in
'
others, barbarism
it
altogether,
modern structures
not completed
walls,
or
painted domes.
In the
midst of these crowded structures, some devotees are daily seen entering a
tuary,
little
mean
sancThis,
more
they
tell
you,
the
first
was
originally con-
but
now
it
consists of brick-work
to-
wooden church.
the whole
cannot be great.
in
According to ac-
counts published
city of
our
own country,
Moscow was burned by the Tahtars of the Crimea, on the 24th of May 1571 and the
;
old
probably then
de-
stroyed.
We
celebration
of divine
a priest, with
selecis
There
(l)
Uscombe
to
Henry Lane.
Hakluyt,
vol.
p. 402.
MOSCOW.
The view
of Moscow, from a terrace
ii>
169
the
is
^
<^hap.
i.y
where the
a fine
artillery
>
preserved, would
afford
subject for a
Panorama.
ings, the
all
The number
the prospect,
make
it,
most extraordinary
sights in Europe.
wretched hovels, and miserable wooden buildings, which appear in passing through the streets,
are lost in the vast assemblage of magnificent
edifices
:
among
Below the walls of the Kremlin, the Moscva, already become a river
particularly conspicuous.
of importance,
Volga.
is
seen
flowing
towards the
its
is
quay
and
at Petersburg :
is
it is
flags
Sione Bridge,
;
to
another, which
being
A flight
river,
the
the
Benediction of
year.
of
wooden
steps
leads
170
'^vn^'
'
MOSCOW.
^^^ ^^^' ascending by this
churches
in
staircase,
we found
and a
the jscen.
sion.
prodigious
the
celebration
Ascension.
It is difficult to
We
were carried
in
by a crowd which
lifted
by
it
we
entered, a
present were in
',
themselves
bowing
their
consecrated pictures.
as usual, exposed
;
and
we were
wood
of
*
shewn, by the
the true Cross.*
Women,
lifted
up their infants, and taught them to embrace the feet and hands of the images. Observing a crowd particularly eager to kiss the
scull of
an
incorruptible saint,
we asked
a priest,
in Latin,
whose body the sepulchre contained. *' Whence are you" said he, " that you know not the Tomb of St. Demetrius ?'"'
(l)
breast,
The Russians
shoulder; thereby
This ceremony
thumb, the Jirst, and the middlefinger ; the three fingers signifying the
CHAP.
YIII.
MOSCOW.
Order of the Maltese Cross Mineials of Count Golovkiit
Antiquities Gallery of Galitzin Botanic Garden Philosophical hihrary of Stupendous Instruments Other of English Horse-Dealers Public Natural History
Pictures
Sliells
Botterline
Collections
objects
Baths :
their
Foundling Hospital.
lOiNCE the Emperor Paul was made Grand
mode of
use,
Russia.
It
was
Cross.
172
CHAP,
<
MOSCOW.
not possible to mix in company, without seeing
'
many
The price of it, when purchased' the Crown, was three hundred peasants.
knights.
ments,
In
to
this
class
of society
worthy of admiration.
Formerly,
was a
dience.
What
now
is,
we
The extravagance of the Russian nobility has no example. They talk of twenty and thirty
thousand
cash:
roubles as
;
other nations do
of their
meanest coin
in
the disbursement
made
in
fur-
and wearing-apparel.
the
oJunr^^^^
Goiovkin.
Visiting
mineralogical cabinet
of Count
(1)
As we were informed.
it
at twelve
hundred
rouhles,
" At
Persons
served either in a
or military capacity,
;
may,
con-
for twelve
roubles,
but this
is
MS. Journal.
MOSCOW.
patronage only in Moscow. " In England,'' said he, " it does not answer to offer fine specimens
of Natural History for sale;
173
chap.
we
get
more money,
than
illus-
even
in London'''
We
contents of one
for us, con-
was opened
had
cost
the
Count two
thousand
The substances were certainly rare, but by no means adequate to such an enormous price. Some of them had been purchased in
sterling.
Calonne's
fine
mineral,
as
well as a fine
make
and may be
same year.
hundred
galena,
almost
(2)
Perhaps
it is
the same
now
History at Paris.
much
larger, in
Mr.
It
was a present
nearly as h\% as a
; ;
174
CHAP,
MOSCOW.
malleable, a substance described
by Le
Sas:e
muriate of silver
as walnuts
;
heart spar
very large
Siberian
;
emerald,
tra-
Peruvian emerald
matrix
Chrysoprase
and of phosphate
of lead
native antimony
a specimen of rock
crystal, so filled
in the
when turned
all
hand,
directions;
the
Venus' hairs,
or
upon calcareous
The Museum
History.
It
was
in
many
of the
most
interesting relics
of antiit
quity, particularly
con-
who
really possessed
in
every selection
'
MOSCOW.
minerals, or
\7o
art
;
works of modern
for
whatever
'
^"-^j^'-
The
lamented which
instead of allowing
monument
of
posterity.
Among
the pictures,
we
Pictur.vj.
nobleman.
was
that highly-finished
piece
Other travellers
may
perhaps at
Douw,
an
in
artist
in
this collection
it
two thousand
The
rest
Ferrate,
masters.
was an
parts,
antient lyre
Antiqui-
of bronze, complete in
all its
and perhaps
It
was modelled by
176
CHAP.
VIII.
V
,
MOSCOW.
Camhoresi. in wood.
.
vase of
in
lazulite
was
.l
'
Herculaneum,
in col-
which
is
very doubtful.
It
is
common,
Grcecia,
Magna
to
in
and even
al-
modern
alabaster vases,
Herculaneum ;
the excavations
Museum
of his
in
Italy,
are
but no such
works
in
terra-cotta
have yet
in
The
rarest
antiquities
Count Golovkins
Collection
were
vessels
of
window,
to
with
earth, in
;
a Dutch
tulip
of course,
instant.
was
liable
be
broken every
P'ases,
on which were
the
earliest
represented subjects
illustrating
No
to his
Collec-
session.
These
zstf/y/jx/oc
have probably by
this time
way
to
been lavished
MOSCOW.
Japan; but when
vessels,
'
177
we
arrived,
many
beautiful
^
chap.
made
which belonged to the famous Mengs, and had been brought from Rome to Moscow, by the Grandthe apartments
:
We
more than
others, to see a
Hammer, of no
We
The
pictures of the Grand-chamberlain Q-allerv of ^ ^ J Galitzin was the most extensive: the palace
itself
by a vast
gallery,
was
entirely filled
(l)
with paintings.
In so vast
" He furnishes his closet first, and fills The crouded shelves with rarities of
Adds Orient
pearls,
shells
And
all
Drvden.
VOL.
I.
; ;
178
MOSCOW.
an assemblage, there were doubtless
different productions; but,
CHAP.
VI II.
many
in-
martyrdom of
all
St.
and
it
his sublimity
filled
and energy.
pictures
Liiirary of
with
^pj^g
libra?'!/,
and museum of
finest sights
Count
in
Botterline,
Europe.
col-
he
had so many
were
sufficient
They
were
his
for
own
roof; affording
several
workmen,
and
He had
almost
all
his collection of
ihejifteendi
Bononicr, 1723.
sigii_ature of his
in a curious edition
it
Pennant's History of
and Holyivdl,
MOSCOW.
printed
179
there-
probable,
that nearly
all
of
them were
contained in Count
B otter line s
Collection.
filled
The
two
the
volumes.
He procured from
Paris
celebrated
work
and had
countries
;
been
from
all
these
folio.
This immense
distinct
classes.
;
library
six
so
numerous
The
botanic
garden,
(botany being
his
fa-
Botanic ^^"*"'-
haps unequalled
it
in the
world.
was a small
library
extraordinary
we
greater
beauty than
state
we had
of nature.
external
healthy.
and were
at
the
same time
We
asked him
how such
a variety of plants,
n2
180
^vin^
'v-v^^'
MOSCOW.
requiring such different culture, situation, and
same
roof.
He
said that
the principal
mode
of watering;
he performed
almost
all
the
work with
his
own hands;
of his plants,
much
surprised
by the appearance
all
the knowledge
In his
The Spir^a
May.
crenata,
the twenty-fifth of
trees in
winter.
Moscow had perished during the former The Count smiled when we spoke of
he might obtain the
"
I
receive
them
all,"
said he,
from England: nobody here will be at the trouble to collect either seed or plants and I
;
am
that
grow wild
in
my
own."
Phiiosostruraen"ts,
In addition
to
already noticed,
we were shewn
with
all
This
collection alone
appeared
sufficient to
have em-
MOSCOW.
ployed the time and fortune of a single individual.
J;t
181
telescopes,
the
laboratory, models,
The
quadrupeds,
c oi medals oi
'7
Natural
History.
Paul
T^
Gregorovitz Demidof,
travellers
Museum
sion.
in Moscoiu'.
We
His
library
contained
thousand
The
Galitzin,
nificence.
The former
roubles
for
thousand
But
among
all
tory that
we saw
most worthy of
the
audience-chamber of Prince
Cl)
"To
The summer's day would end before the song To purchase but the tenth of all their store, Would make the mighty Persian monarch poor.
;
Yet what
(2)
can,
will."
torn. III. p. 327.
Dryde.v.
182
^Jf;\^V 1 1 1.
^
MOSCOW.
Alexander Galitzin.
^
alone,
y-
on days of ceremonyto
His Excelto
us.
lency condescended
exhibit
them
;
They were
far
beyond
all
estimation
because
a
the value of such things depends entirely upon the poAver and wealth which might enable
The
mass of green carbonated copper, commonly called Malacfiite, was not only the largest
or the
was
also the
most
to
beautiful.
It
was found
in
form and
colour,
interest a naturalist, or to
it
had never
of the
all
been surpassed.
Its
delicate surface,
those most beautiful silky lustre, exhibited mammillary nodes and zones which denote the
stalactite origin
of the mineral.
though exquisitely variegated, was entire and compact and, for the mere purpose of cutting
;
into plates,
would have been inestimable in the hands of jewellers. The weight of this enormous mass must have been at least a ton. While we
remained in the
roubles for
it
;
city,
The companion
was not
less
MOSCOW.
wonderful
:
18,1
it
was a mass
all
of numberless Siberian
;
this
they traversed in
directions
exhibiting the
most
ceived,
size,
was
too remarkable to be
Prince Alexander
a magnificent cabinet of
Natural History.
The number
English grooms,
of
English
horse-dealers,
and
English HorsuDealers.
very great.
the nobles.
They were in high favour among The Governor of the city was conto hear the nobles repeat
as
if
on an
English race-course
the son of Eclipse;
was
of
dam by
such a one
grandlist
dam by
another
;"
names taught by their grooms, but having no more real reference to their cattle than to the
moon.
English saddles and bridles also sold at
streets
of
the
city,
184
CHAP,
viir.
-^
MOSCOW.
Public Baths,
In
many
parts of Russia,
as in Lapland, the
It is
known
As soon as the inhabitants Gulph of Bothnia^ of these northern nations have endured the
.
which
is
it
air
in
summer
taining
winter they
When
moreover drink copious draughts of mead, as cold as it can be procured. These practices,
which would
constitutions.
kill
men
and
to delight them,
add strength
to their
Travels,
vol. I. p. 338.
LoTid. 1802.
where
in
this
sceue
the
is
described.
The author
Sweden,
MOSCOW.
Being troubled with rheumatic pain, brought on by a sudden change of weather, (the thermometer falling, in one day, from 84'' of Fahrenheit,
nearly to the freezing point,) the author
185
^^f/*'
was
bath.
Nothing can
with
more
commonly
filled
or suburbs
this
Moscow.
It
The
building
was a small
wooden hut
at one
Two naked
him
told
figures,
to this spot;
where pointing
to a plank
him
if
and to
upon the sheet, a number of cockroaches and crickets had usurped the only spot where a person might venture to sit down. As soon as he was unrepose,
he thought proper;
but,
hath
the ceremonies
hand were cisterns of water and upon the edges of those cisterns appeared
the
left
Upon
186
MOSCOW.
a row of polished brass vessels.
right
Towards
the
in the
middle of the
roof,
is
The hot vapour being collected near the the more the bather ascends, the greater
is
exposed.
A choice
him.
therefore offered to
On
was a
stove,
in
tombs
our
church-yards.
The upper
was
and
to
mount upon one of these stoves, extend himself upon the sheet having
he found himself nearly elevated and the heat of the
done
this,
The
sensation
subterraneous cavern, called the Bath of He Nero, upon the coast of Baia, near Naples.
a Russian bath
well
known
it
varies (ac-
(l)
Tableau de
V Empire de
Russic, torn.
I.
p. 380.
The
degrees of
MOSCOW.
the roof,
it is
187
f'H^'^i'-
Thus
situate, a
man began
to
"
'
-^
peeled
off.
As soon
was desired
and then several vessels of warm water were poured upon his head, whence it fell
all
He was
all
tlie
Afterwards,
where
once more being stretched at length, a copious lather of soap was prepared, and his body was
again rubbed
a
:
after this
second time,
soused
witJi
vessels of water.
He was
now be
given.
lie
To
prepare for
this,
they cau-
tioned him to
now
some hot water being cast upon red-hot cannon-balls and upon the principal stove, such a vapour passed
at the
same
time,
all
it
came
like a
stream of fire.
(3)
Equal
to 132 of Fahrenheit.
188
CHAP.
VIII.
V
MOSCOW.
If
'
instant,
and draw
in his breath,
It
it
seemed
to
like
inhaling flames.
this for
was impossible
endure
way
down from
was conducted
to the
National
Importance of Public
Baths.
Eminent physicians have endeavoured "to draw the attention of the English Government to the
importance oi public
their use
baths,
and of countenancing
by every
aid of
ragement.
among
all
may
we not lament that they are so little known in our own country We might, perhaps, find reason
?
The
inhabitants of countries
where the
it,
bath is
in the full
In
luxury;
Russia,
vast empire of
Lapland, Sweden,
through
all
Finland,
MOSCOW.
and Norway, there
so destitute, but
is
it
189
^"i\^'
'
vapour hath ;
'
in case of sickness.
Lady
all
Mary
Montague, in despite of
the
England against
blessing
introduced
if
this
from
some other patriotic individual, of equal influence, would endeavour to establish throuo:hout Great Britain the use of luarm and
Turkey.
And
may become
as
maintained
may commemorate
support.
But when we recollect that the illustrious Bacon in vain lamented the disuse of i'a^A^ among Europeans, we have little reason to indulge the expectation. At the same time, an additional
effects,
in
affording longe^^ty
and
vigorous health to a
and unwholesome
diet,
under the
:
they
were considered as
institutions
founded
in abso-
1^
CHAP,
VIII.
v*
MOSCOW.
lute necessity,
and
to
numbered nearly a thousand such buildings and these, besides their utiUty, were regarded as master-pieces of architectural skill and of sumptuous decoration.
In Russia,
wretched wooden hovels. If wood be deficient, they are formed of mud, or scooped in the
in
but
in the palaces of
in
the
may be
:
Oriental people
many other
;
the ceremony of hoveling and tearing the hair at the death of relatives the practice
among
soles
the
of their
of maintaining buffoons,
to
relate
whose occupation
similar purpose.
Foundling
Hospital.
^g ^ couclusiou
to
tliis
chapter, a few ^
words
in
may be added
ling Hospital
;
name
MOSCOW.
Petersburg excites the interest and attention of
all
191
foreigners; although
it
"^
^\\ii,'
^""^
more
same
Moscow.
sufficiently described
by preceding authors'.
only be necessary
Of the
the year
786,
it
had received no
Of
left
this
the asylum
six thou-
1792, the
number of children
insti-
tutions
Kaluga, Jaroslaf,
p. 321.
Upon
which
this
judicious remarks
"
un
^c^i^'ain tres-
veridique sur d'autres points, est exacte, la perte que cet ^tablissement
mais
elle le paroitrait
beaucoup moins,
si
Ton examinait
le
nonibre do
ceux.
I'etat
moment
que de
Pour determiner
exact de
la mortalit(5
de cette maison,
il
faudrait savoir le
;
nombre
^tt^
baptisds,
:
la niort
nombre toujours
plus-
192
^vnf*
'
'
MOSCOW.
were
at nurse in the coun-
^ ^^^ establishment
'
"
Every peasant entrusted with the care of an infant had a monthly allowance of a rouble and a half Every month, such of the children as
try.
until the
age of
five years.
was much greater among them than it present, although they were inoculated for
the small-pox'.
{\)Heber's
MS.
Journal.
CHAP.
IX.
MOSCOW.
Visit to the
Conversation Funeral of Prince for Fruit and Food Sparrow Hill Gulitzin Nobles Barbarous Public Morals Banquets of Russian Tables Anecdote of two Etiquette observed used English Gentlemen Precautions Dealers Adventurers and Swindlers Imtnense Wealth of Nobles Condition of
Archbishop of Moscoiv
his
the
at
to be
in travel-
ling
in Virtu
the
the
Peasants.
chap.
TV IX.
we had
him
hitherto beheld
Plato,
archbishop of
visit
we made
to ArSbTshop
"^
^'^'jcou-.
Convent of
VOL.
194 CHAP,
IX
MOSCOW.
nary for young priests near the
with this remarkable man.
to
city.
We
had
^^
Ki^ITl
Ferrer a.
Upon our arrival at the convent, we wcrc told hc was thcn Walking in a small garDutens.
pleasure
and the
employment characterized
life.
As
we
we
by a
bishop, an old
man
his
monastery,
and some
We could
scarcely believe
:
when they told us it was Plato for although we had often seen him in his archiepiscopal vestments, his rural dress had made such an alteration, that we did not know him. He was habited in a striped silk bed-gown, with a
our eyes,
night-cap upon his head like the silk nets com-
monly worn by
feet of
Italian postillions
having also
fastened on
linen,
He was
some distance. By his side, upon the bank, was placed his broad-brimmed straw hat, offering a correct model of the Athenian pileits, and such
at
MOSCOW.
as the Pati'iarchs of the
195
^!l^^IX.
v
always worn
'^
'
now wear
the
His
to his features a
most
He
desired to
know who
I
we were
Englishmen
*'What!" said
wonder
what your
countrymen
home made
and
in such times as
by him;
in
which
free-
was enough of
science, of wit,
and of
dom, to astonish any traveller, in such a country, and at such a period. Memory has scarcely
retained even that part of
it
which concerned
me
perhaps a
and you
find
me
as naturally disposed
for observation as
his
you could wish" (pointing to woollen stockings and his strange dress),
o
'i
196
''
MOSCOW.
^'^
'
^?x^*
'
ties."
We
replied, that,
Ceremony of
to see
dral
the Resurrection, we had the honour him in his greatest splendour, in the catheof the Kremlin. " And what did you think
of that ceremony?"
that "
said he.
We
;
answered,
the most
solemn
Rome
as
,-"
We assured
highly inter-
him
that
we
esting: at this he burst into a fit of laughter, holding his sides, and saying, " had lost a
We
ceremony of a
it
religion
we
interesting"
We
his
garden,
to your's ?"
We
told
him, that
we had
severe, but
attended with so
that the
much humidity
"
in
atmosphere was clear and dry O yes," said he, " very dry indeed! and it has,
consequence, dried up
all
our fruit-trees."
we were
to
going
MOSCOW.
Constantinople,
197
^^x^'
claimed,
difficult
"
to
they traverse
all
the
should
in travelling, if I
;
had en-
my
favourite reading.
He laughed, howhim
to
The
de-
claim, in their
fine flourishing fine
way: he used
but they were
to
preach his
translated
sermons
Some
was once discussed in an English sermon. Whether a people had power to dethrone their King." " Your Eminence may say more," said one of our party; " we had once a prelate,
who, preaching before his Sovereign,
(1)
Tiey's
felt
himself
The Russians
exulted very
.-
much
in
embassy to China
aud
believe
it is
that
our want of success was owing to the prompt manoeuvres of the Cmirt
of Petersburg, with regard to that country.
198
^^j^^'
MOSCOW.
at liberty to discuss his
conduct
to
his face."
" /
ivish,''
lue
had such a
felloiu
heref'
but,
be put upon
to
''we
He was much
whom
he had asked
" If
I
if it
was
his intention
to
ever to marry.
be fortunate enough
''
shall
live
daughter,
and
my
ease\"
He complained much
published his correspondence, without his permission; saying, he had therein endeavoured to
was
him,
fully
convinced
We
told
we
now
subside,
as that Court was no longer formidable to any " Oh," said he, " you do not knojv its one.
intrigues and artilices: its character resembles
ing malice
(1)
prompt
to execute
it,
when opporto
The
Priests in the
marry
but not
the likhops.
MOSCOW.
tunity offers; and always obtaining
its
199
point in
^j^^^-
the end."
He
Empress Cathe-
was
nothing,
she was so vain, as of that correspondence. I never saw her so gay, and in such high spirits,
as
to tell
me
of having received a
letter
Voltaire.''
He conducted
antient Patriarch,
us to the apartments of
tlie
who founded
;
They
con-
now
tunity to ask,
any
translation of the
among
the
He answered us
in
As he was
Russian.
we ques-
relationship to the
He
assured
;
was
was
in 1613,
and died
d^-
in l(i8l.
Hamb.
Brunswick, 1800.
200
CHAP,
IX.
y
MOSCOW.
them bore the
slightest
guage of Finland.
In this convent, one hundred and
fifty
students
and
in rhetoric.
The church
is
lofty
and
all
spacious
kept in
altar,
where women
archbishop,
The
explain consistently
liberality
with
the piety
and the
What would
some of our
is
always
Funeral of
i*rincG
On
tlic
Gaiiizin.
Plato in
Galitzin,
saw great pomp, at the burial of Prmce in Moscow. This ceremony was pertwenty-cighth of May,
again
, .
we
formed
Bridge.
in
superb crimson
::
MOSCOW.
coffin, richly
201
silver,
embossed with
and placed
^^Z^^IX.
bishop,
who read
the service.
On
their
hands wax
ta-
we
placed ourselves
among the
effect
seemed as
if
choristers
were placed
this
in the
perhaps was
Lord have mercy upon Russian \ " Ghospodi pomilui " When
Latin,
"Paxvohiscumr
to the
astonishment of
the Russians ; who, not comprehending the new words introduced into the service, muttered
(l)
in
vol.XXXV. p. 134. But they seem generally pro! The supplication itself was originally deritual, and, like other
some
teries.
of
whom
in the
Pagan Mys-
Thus
^ux'^'/^'-irSa,
And the Kv^n Ixitivov, ** Lord have mercy upon the Pagan lAtany. See Arrian. Epict. I. ii. c. 7.
202
MOSCOW.
among themselves.
to the pictures
and
to the people
mony
and that
said
his sins
were absolved.
in
is
Then turning
the coffin, he
to us, as the
again in
what
all
you
in
and you
relate,
we
;
believe no soul
it.
Now
wish you
to
is
and to explain to understand what it really is your countrymen, upon my authority, that it
concerning the death of the deceased."
laughing, he added, "
this to paper:
I
Then
all
I
ceremony, with
man
his pass-
(1)
There
is
a passag'e in
this extraordinary
man.
Mr. Heber's Jnurnnl very characteristic of Mr. Heber, with his friend Mr. Thornton,
paid to
him a
visit in
" The
little
is
is
narrow
cell,
empty, and
destined for the present archbishop; the otiier contains the bones of the Founder of the Monastery,
ijoffia
who
is
regarded as a Saint,
afflicted
The oak
with the
tooth-
was almost
bit to pieces
by different persons
MOSCOW.
'
203
The lid of the coffin beinof now removed, the chap. * IX. body of the Prince was exposed to view and y
;
^
'
all
the other attendants, began the ululation, according to the custom of the comitry.
Each person,
walking
before
it,
lips
of the deceased.
The venerable
a
most
affecting spectacle.
He threw
himself
flat
a specific. Platolaughed
not
A<i they do
it
undeceive them."
as a
in Russia,
man
of ability.
'onversation
we drew
Some
but the
frankness and openness of his manners, and the liberality of his sentiments, pleased us highly.
remarkable.
their
The
believe, inimical to
Government; they are more connected with the peasants than most other classes of men, and are strongly interested in their sufFcrings and oppressions
;
to
many
exposed.
their
own
popular
among them.
as an inevitable,
He
refused to draw
up a Form
he,
"
If," said
"
thet/ be really
and
contrite, let
them shut up
their places
prayers."
of public amusement J'or a month, and I will then celebrate public His expressions of dislike to the nobles and wealthy classes
and the
better,"
as also the manner in which he described Emperor of Russia, the dangers which surround him, improbability of any rapid improvement. " It would be much said he, " had we a Constitution like that of England." Yet I
suspect he does not wish particularly well to us, in our war with
France."
Heber's
MS.
Journal.
204
CHAP,
V
MOSCOW.
of violence, and, being quite stunned
I
,
by the
:
after-
and
had, according to
the
custom
in
he retired for ever from the world, saying, " Since his dear old master was dead, there was
for him."
was handed about, containing boiled rice and raisins a ceremony we are unable to explain. The face of the deceased was then
;
A plate
covered with
consecrated
linen,
oil,
these
and unto
The
of the coffin
and, after a
requiem, " sweet as from blest voices," a procession began from the church to a convent in
body was
to
be
interred.
in this
of
whom
were
in
mourning.
MOSCOW.
bearing tapers
;
205
^^x^'
^ '
whip of the driver being bound with crape; afterwards proceeded a hne
droshy, the
common
movement
they could,
fast as
in
a very indecolast
rumbling
were seen persons, running, quite out of breath, and unable to keep up with their companions '.
(1)
To
this
it
may be proper
to add a
to the
was communicated
The ceremony
of
Baptism
is
as follows
it
As soon as a child
;
is
wards (unless
is
by the
and gives
out,
wax
candles,
him by
the sponsors,
whom
it
he
incenses,
and consecrates
:
then begins a procession round the font, being followed by the sponsors
with wax candles in their hands
times.
:
name of the name upon an image, which he holds upon the child's breast, and asks, " JVticther the child Relieve in God the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost?" The sponsors having
The
procession being over, the sponsors give the
child to the ^ricsi, inwriting: the priest puts the
answered
backs
to the font, as
nounce
his angels f
Whether he renounce
his viorksf
The sponsors
answer,
206
MOSCOW.
The
stalls
for
Fruit and
who
few
Food.
At these
places, for a
answer,
" /
p.
spit
three
Sect. III.
295. Note
1.
upon
this antient
" IVhether
they pro-
the exorcism
begins:
the priest puts his hand upon the child, and blows three
"
spirit,
the
Holy Ghost
in
he then cuts
wraps
it
up
is
after
in his
into the
it is
called
by virtue of
Holy Ghost.
The
shirt
priest
it,
upon
and
says,
clean
its
and
shi)-t."
He
neck
which
strictly preserved
by the
Russians,
who deny
crosses about
ted to intermarry.
Baptism
is
es-
re-admitted as
members
and persons, who have been notorious reprobates, are of the Church, by repeating their baptism.
in this
same time.
MOSCO^V.
a
207
at the
'
wholesome dinner.
little
^^}^^'
stalls
-^
poured a
honey; and
for
we
how
this
was
done),
baked pears,
salad,
salted
honey, and
receives a
it is
mead.
As almost every
fit
eatable
considered
for use,
no Russian
that
will
touch any
article of food
until
place.
A
is
Bridge,
and
first
this
ceremony does not take place until the apple drops from the tree, which is brought
form to the
priest.
in great
A Mohammedan would
sooner eat pork, than a Russian would eat unconseer ated fruit.
plant,
" purple-flowered
Henbane" (Hyoscyavms
in the
Plnjsalo'ides),
growing wild
garden of our
and banker, Mr. Doughty, we thought the season sufficiently advanced to go, on the twentyfriend
208
*^?x^'
'
,
MOSCOW.
^P'^^'^'O'i^
H^lh
^1"^
city,
much
affords of
Moscow and
it
HUL^
environs.
The
too
much
it
.
of a bird's-eye prospect;
and, although
comprehend the whole extent of the city, with the rivers, and all its vast suburbs, the
magnificejice of the edifices
is
Upon
build a palace:
now
in
From
the eminence
we
perceived the
The
climate
is
also danger-
sudden
vegetation
" Pilewort," or
Many
by their forward state, gave us notice that it was time to bid adieu to cities and the " busy haunts of men," if we wished to behold Nature in more southern latitudes, before she became divested of her smiling counteuance.
The manner
in
MOSCOW.
rials used, to
209
It
^^^^
IX.
The shoes
;
are
made
the legs
cloth,
bound with thongs of the same materials as the These thongs, passing through the sandals. loose texture of the sandal, and afterwards entwined about the
tosrether. O'
leg,
We
title
filthy esta-
Public
V Hotel
de Constantinople,
where we
in
re-
sided '.
The master
employed
of
it
had not
other calist
to assist him.
In this
prostitutes,
by
whom
it
was
inhabited.
A swarm
teristic
Banquets
of the
bies.
No
dependent sycophants,
is
remarkably charac-
The
this
VOL.
I.
210
CHAP,
IX.
MOSCOW.
numerous
tellites
table, that
forsake his
rarely forgiven
they will
who were
victims of
in
by
travellers.
Before the
than the
for his
were made
were indiscriminate, jealousy and quarrels were During the reign the inevitable consequence.
of Paul, Englishmen were guests likely to in-
but,
it is
but jus-
felt
them-
selves
gratified
by
the presence of a
stranger
police.
The
MOSCOW.
The
dishes aiid the wines correspond in grada-
211
^l]^^'
'
Those who
tlie
sit
ETiquenT
''^
In
^''^'''''
barbarous times
nature in
we had something
not even
farm-houses,
down
together.
The
sit
after-
wards,
if
it is
taken gradually
to the rest.
all
Thus a degree
in
precedency makes
empty
wines
table;
:
dish.
It is
the
proportion as the
guests are
removed from the post of honour, the wine becomes of a worse quality, until at last it degenerates into simple quass.
Few
more repugnance
merely out
of
ostentation,
p
while
number
212
of brave
officers
MOSCOW.
and dependents are
he
is
sitting
by him,
glass.
this
to
whom
We
was a mode of conduct which we found could not be tolerated, even by the most liberal Two tureens of soup usually make their host. appearance, as we often see them in England;
and
it
but
if
is
at
the rest
all
gaze at
him
witli
wonder
to
be a mess of dirty
and abominable broth, stationed for persons who never venture to ask for soup from the upper
end of the
waiting
is
table.
The number
of attendants in
prodigious.
In the
house of the
in rags.
It
was no unusual
by
streets.
A droll
MOSCOW.
of considerable property,
tor
213
travelling
''
who were
.
^";!^^*
"
amusement in the South of Russia. Thev ^" " Anecdote were at Nkholaef; and bemg mvited by the of two Chief Admiral to dinner, they were placed, as men. where they usual, at the head of the table were addressed by the well-known title of
.
.
'
Milords Anglais.
tion,
not Lords.
host,
*'
" Allow me
is
then to
ask,'''
said their
luhat
the
The
all
who
is
are in the
as nolle
by
their profession
and, as there
no middle
mem-
ber of
is
it is
Gentleman^ neither
less there
be some specific
annexed
to
it
The
title
/"
*'
No,
(said they)
Gentlemen.''
we have no
many
saga-
On
To
214
^?x ^^V
MOSCOW.
^'
^^^^^^''
'
pl^^ced himself
^.notlieY
'd
above them.
a
One was
General;
a fourth a
Police-officer ;
;
an
Army
Surgeon;
a sixth a Secretary
and so
on.
All this
was very
where they would be the farther removed from ceremony but, lo when the dishes came round,
: !
was empty a second contained the sauce without the meat a third, the rejected offals of the whole company; and at length they were compelled to make a scanty meal, upon the slice
a
first
;
;
little
dirty
compassionate
veil
amused than
selves
mortified,
an adventure into
by their unassuming frankness. Had either of them said, as was really the case, that they were in the service of his Britannic Majesty's
Militia, or
difficulties
frequently follow
visit-
When a poderosnoy, "^o ^^ interior of Russia. or ordcr for post-horses, is made out, it will
MOSCOW.
often be
21o
recommended
to foreigners, to
and
partito
CHAP.
IX.
cularly to Englishmen,
annex some
title
Without
to frequent
they
may
ney, as
insult,
is
mere
slaves,
and
will
be liable
delay,
and imposition.
The precaution
and
as any thing
which may
:
For example
le
" Monsieur
K. L. M."
le
Capitaine a. b. c. avec
i.
Directeur
D. E. F. et le President g. h.
et Icurs
domestiques
So necessary
is
in
embarrassed
in
we would
not
ourselves
Com-
and
we had which we
reason to
treated his
It is at their
Deaiws
nobility.
He
21p
^^^^^
'
MOSCOW.
will see
'
it
lavished
among
foreigners in their
service,
upon
balls,
their tables
boxes,
masquerades, This
There is no place in the world where adventurers reap such harvests as in Moscow. Friaeurs from
Italy or
The news is soon buzzed new comer sought for and he must abroad the be indeed a fool if he do not make his journey answer. We saw a man of this description, a
arrive in the city.
; ;
their
He complained
them had given and snuffrings, in
Some
of
him
boxes,
exchange
In fact, they
had
them.
seller
MOSCOW.
and the buyers, the barber had ultimately the
losing part of the business.
2!7
chap.
Flushed by his
'
is,
of
all
^Jj^^g'^^j
Swindlers
consequently,
many
The
offer a
The
great celebrity in
Russia;
sometimes
in-
He introduced an
is still
The wealth
of the nobles
in
is
really enormous.
-'
5,T'",'^r'i. ealtli of
We
have not
theA'oWa.
may be
their
rank or
peasants
situation.
Some
by the
Condition cf the Feasants.
number of their
218
^'
MOSCOW.
"P^^
^^^^
*^?x
If the
(l)
While
it
may
make atonement, by
for
is
any error
in his representation,
whether
statistical or moral.
He
this
Woik,
which it was written upon the spot. " We observed a striking difference between the peasants of the Crown and those of individuals. The former are almost all in comparatively
easy circumstances.
is
and
as
will never
be
more
industrious.
The
then
for land,
Each male peasant is obliged, by law, week for his proprietor. This law takes
age of
fifteen.
on
days, he
may;
example,
in a
him
in food
and clothing.
;
own account.
The master
is
bound
to furnish
The allotment
village)
of land
generally settled
when a master wants an increase of who convenes the peasants; and by this
If
assembly
it is
a slave exercise any trade which brings him in more money than agricultural labour, he pays a higher alrock.
If
by journeys to Petersburg,
still
:
but
his abiock
is
raised
pression.
The
an abrock out
MOSCOW.
him three days of labour during each week, the annual tax is said to be proportionally
to give
the master mi^ht employ them in other
219
drive
as, otherwise,
less
pro-
fitable labour,
on
his
own account.
Such from
seek their fortune; but they sometimes pay an uLrock even for this
permission to beg.
as
m Petersburg
;
is
very small
when one
in
is
found, he
In
though
think
less so
much
less cla-
confinement
to the laws
;
but
if
is
amenable
which
are,
we
partiality.
many
Instances of
sister
means
rare.
At Kostroma, the
of
me
The
master was sent to a monaster^', and the business hushed up. Domestic servants,
in
manner.
distillery,
The brother
who had
a great
We
heard another
now
in
Moscow, who had been poisoned three several times by her servants.
No
passport.
Any person
;
arriving in a
town or
village,
must produce
is
his
If
to the Starosta
of
is
The punishment
of living runaways,
ment works
220
CHAP,
IX
MOSCOW.
diminished.
regulations
But, in despite of
all
the pretended
made
The
peasant he chooses.
filled
prisons oi
who were,
;
Moscow and Kostroma were chiefly for the most part, in irons.
but
in the interior it
is
On
almost
impossible
many months,
living miserably in
is
new
levy of
The
peasants, at the
same time
all
But
if
man
be dis-
for a soldier at
;
any time he
so that he send
one
man
less
He
Go-
vernment
with this restriction, that they are young men, free from
and are
five feet
" The
an
chosen,
Starosta, of
whom
olficer
an English
village.
He
we
He is answerable for the alrocks to among the peasants ; gives billets for
&c.
Stai'osta.
"A
slave can
Lieutenant- Colonel.
This rank
is
may
be obtained by them
of Brigadic7\)
in civil situations.
is,
This law
however, eluded
as roturiers (plebeians)
some
privileged person
and
all nobles
their slaves.
" Such
deficient.
is
With regard
to his
in tolerable rejiair,
being
Fuel,
is
is
warm and
substantial.
;
food, dear.
but clothing
summer they
MOSCOW.
tax he
is
is
22
^^\^^}^-
called
upon
IX.
Labour
is
except
in
great towns.
They wear
a blue Nantkin
sliirt,
trimmed with
and linen or
but
two or three
roubles;
linen drawers;
legs, over
hempen
sort
lasts a
rags
wrapped round
their feet
and
which
For a
The common
common
cloth caf-
we were asked
is
thirty roubles.
To
is, I
chargeable as in England.
It
is
With regard to the idleness of the lower classes here, we had heard great complaints, it appears, that, where they have an interest in exertion, they by no means want industry', and have
just the
same wish
Great proprietors,
who
never raise their abrocks, such as Count Shei-emetof, have very rich
The
difference
we
nobility
men-
indeed,
it is
more happy
an alr^gc
we procured iu Moscow, and chiefly from Galitzin. The levies for the army are conBaron Bode
till
told
me,
as secret as possible,
They
difficult.
The
distress of
one of their
man
it is
being pressed
well
II.
who,
known,
Government again to Moscow, no man was the army was recruited by volunteers ; and slaves
Heber's
MS.
Journal.
222
CHAP,
IX.
MOSCOW.
not exacted from males only
'' :
women, and
child-
upwards,
Tithes
in their
pigs,
hands
sheep, lambs,
land, or of domestic
peasant,
manual labour.
Should a
by any
steal, to
tribute expected
row, or
and,
when
be placed upon the statement they may make. The observations of one of their Princes, at his
own
be found
in
a former
it
Chapter.
to be
immense assembly,
what he termed the hap" There is," said piness of the Russian slaves.
English peasants with
he,
addressing
England than
in Russia."
Excellency to explain what he implied by the " reality of slavery" he expatiated upon the
miseries of press-gangs
rishing condition of his
;
flou-
own
whom
he
MOSCOW.
described as having relief
calamity, and
in their
in sickness,
223
refuge in
ciiap.
IX.
old
age a comfortable
if
asylum.
one,
We
there existed
his slaves,
who
for
would not rejoice to exchange his Russian liherti/ what he was pleased to term English slavery. We had seen the peasants of this very man,
according to his
own
sickness, in calamity,
and
in old
age
;"
and
it
death, and
punishment he
tisement)
inflicted
upon
he
all
corporeal chas-
was to give them their liberty, and then turn them from his door. Upon further
inquiry,
we
their fetters,
even
if
remain
not endure,
who from
his cradle
crouches to his
Other which is
more disposed
to
employment.
We
224
CHAP,
*,,,
'
MOSCOW.
may
in necessity.
Can there
it
exist
any inducement
hard earn-
to labour,
when
is
Russian nobleman
is
the food
he
of
the bark
quass,
water,
and
fish oil.
have
his
sufficient inge-
nuity to gain
money without
it falls
knowledge,
and,
it
when
peasant
Molody, near
Moscow,
fortunate
enough
to
scrape together a
wealth, wished to
marry
a
sum
most unusual
price,
The
(l)
Mem.
in p. 109,
seem
to
the hardships sustained by the lower order of people in Russia; unless the
MOSCOW.
tyrant took the ransom
ther, that
;
225
told the fa-
and then
both the
girl
to him,
continue
a pic!
among
It is
the
number of
his slaves.
What
thus that
we
empire stripped of
exposed
more
as the garden of
Eden
a fine
soil,
labourer,
who
find
is
surrounded by
all
these riches,
and you
of
it
who
A peasant may
be very
rich.
He may
be found in the
in
eixer-
engaged, as a merchant,
commerce;
yet, as he belongs to the class oi slaves, both his vealth and his person
lord.
Sometimes the
but very
all
what he may
possess.
It is
who
VOL.
I.
226
CH^p.
'
I
MOSCOW.
from bad food, and
'
in
'
'
necessaries of
life.
with
cattle, afford
no milk
In autumn,
selfish
all
the Dro-
duce.
At
with caravans,
to supply
all
of those
all
two
that
swallow
approaches
voracity \
their
vortex,
with
never-ending
(l)
"
few
cities
life,
and
exhiliit palaces,
Secret
Mem.
CHAP.
X.
Celo Molody Serpvchof Insolence and Extortion River Oka Celo Zavody Antient Games Vast Oriental Plain State of Tra Tula ManufacturesImperial Fabric of Arms Present State of Tula Economy of Fuel Iron Mines Road from Tula JVoronetz Dedilof Boghoroditz Celo Nikitzkoy Change of Climate Bolshoy Platy Effremof Nikolaijevka Celo PaPain Eletz Ezvoly Zadonetz Celo Chlehnoy Bestuzevka Celo Staroy Ivotinskoy
velling
its
to
ir o vskia
ia
Woronelz.
Xt
is
now necessary
w^e
CHAP.
X.
where
many
insult,
others
and
u 2
228
CHAP,
is
FROM MOSCOW
who
'
spies,
Our
in the
situation,
empire,
We
is
had been
al-
lowed
to
move
about,
it
true,
but always
We
we
could learn
when we might
go,
Dqjarture
by what route we should be allowed to An escape by the Livonian frontier was pass. At last, without any Utterly impracticable.
or
pg^ggpQj.^ fQj.
i^ijfos-
encouof
raged by the
our
who
secretly
conveyed to us
letters
we determined
Don
Cossacks;
by a circuitous
of the
and,
if
possible, to visit
Kuban Tartary and the more of Circassia. Having, by means of these letters, procured the long-wished-for poderosnoy, and placed our carriage again upon its wheels, we
distant regions of
left
thirty-Jlrst
of
May,
TO WORONETZ.
the
first station.
229
chap.
'^
The next
we
had
--
'
been once
The
tyrant
is
upon
is
He
the
who
refused to a
poor
girl
of her ransom,
when
Moscow.
Molody
situate,
we
between two hills, upon the river Mockra. The late Empress conferred upon this place the name and distinction of a town but Paul (in
;
his determination to
undo
all
that she
made
it
again a village.
From
was performed
this last place
and
to Serpuchof:
and surrounding scenery: and that nothing might be wanting to awaken the recollection of
our beloved country, the
*'
Mouse-ear Scorpion
with other British
Grass" {Myosotis
herbs, appeared
Scorpio'ides),
among
Exactly
in the spot
230
FROM MOSCOW
at Neiumarket, before descending into SerpuchoK
there
is
a church-yard
here,
among
women
is
purely
In
the dress
of the peasants
changes
of the
women be
men
are the
same through-
iSerpuchof.
Serpuchof'is a
handsome
little
river Nara.
It
by a
strong rampart
Chancery.
Some
See p. 209.
According
to
affords the
bark used
is
shoes of linden-bark
The
LAme-tree, of
is
It is scarce in the
j
western provinces
but La
and
it
flourishes as high as
Archangel."
Heher' s
MS. Journal.
TO WORONETZ.
authors have asserted that each peasant
his
231
made
chap.
own.
;
Formerly
this
'
case
and perhaps
in the interior
which
is
common
his
to
man
in
a state of nature,
is
and roaming
an article of
primeval forests,
even now
commerce ".
station
is
At every
oliicer,
who
called
insolence
tion.
Some
of these
men,
We
that
went
As he entered, the Potchetilione commanded him to take off his hat and having asked for what reason he was to remain bare:
headed
in that place
blind,"'
in a tone of great
you do not
see the
Emperor s
(2)
232
CHAF.
FROM MOSCOW
*-V
portrait'
'
It is
a face to
make
The author endeavoured to answer him in his own way, saying, " The Emperor, truly! If he knew how shamefully you have slandered his countenance by that vile representation, your head would come off sooner
Englishmen tremble." than
my
hat."
succeeded, he caused
to be intimated, that he
wanted a
rouble.
We
we
offer
if
himself.
Horses
now came
River Oka.
About a vcrst from this town we crossed the Oka, by a ferry. This river falls into the Folga
at Kolomna.
It is
that evening
was coming on when we arrived upon its banks. Peasants were seated in groupes
around different
fires, singing,
and boiling
frogs,
their
fish
upon the
shore.
Innumerable
to
whose
croaking
(l)
may be heard
great
distance
public offices of
Some
manner.
All persons,
if in
before them, as
trate,
The
peasants
fell
pros-
as before their
BOGH.
TO WORONETZ.
during the night, overpowering the melody of
nightingales in Russia as well as in Denmarky
'
233
ciiap.
'
full
Upon the
wooden hut
this
Having acquired a
relish for
Scythian beverage,
we
the hut;
instead
of brandy;
off,
and
this
as
We
upon the
all
river
and that
of
stocked.
We
same night
^*"
until
sun-rise.
to
In
all
the
JVoronetz,
This same
It is
is
Amient
by our Enghsh
;
peasants.
it
of
and
may be
observed
terra-
beautifully represented
234
CHAP,
'
, '
FROM MOSCOW
cotta vases; particularly
upon a
fine
one be-
where a female
figure appears
most
with her right arm extended, the palm downwards, and such small bones ranged along the
manner the
But
it
a contest ensuing,
who
from a
of throws.
It is
vil-
hymn.
In these
;
and
by
very
fine.
Vege-
had been
among
we
TO WORONETZ.
flowers,
ticular
235
and there were none worthy of a par- chap. The whole territory, whether /- notice.
^
oreat Oriental plain extends ^ Siberia, and from that city even to Tobolsky
The
^'^'"ij^'l'
ental Plain.
throughout
all
without inclosures.
In a narrative of travels through Russia, there
IS
state of
oi
Travelling.
adventures
at inns.
Except
;
in large
minable.
in the
Better accommodation
may be had
Russian inns.
beyond
description, desti-
of any article
of furniture.
Sometimes
;
and, in
the
evil
is
not
mended; because,
duced,
it is
always
dirty,
person
who
it
as
thing-
he
may
require.
little
sleep,
and
live
dust,
frost,
exposed
to a scorching
sun
or to severe
236
CHAP,
^-' V
'
TULA.
the
'
in a
khabitka,
which
is
the best of
all
means of conhave
veyance.
If not,
method recommended
low,
made
axle-trees.
In this
manner
If
the fumes of
used moderately,
may
preserve
himfrom dangerous
by
their narcotic
may promote
practice also,
the digestion of
bad
food.
This
Tula.
The ucxt
through
day,
June the
Celo
third,
we
to
passed
Vaszany and
Volotia,
Tula,
capital of the
and the
Near the town we found the Lathrcea squamariciy a plant which the peasants boil in milk, as a remedy for disordered
Sheffield of Russia.
sickness
of heart
diificult
to preserve,
owing
we
reached Tula,
it
TULA.
exhibited a considerable appearance.
237
very
v,
chap.
.y
<
handsome church, with white cokimns, appeared above the town, which occupies an extensive The vale, and is filled with spires and domes. entrance, both on its northern and southern
side,
is
through triumphal
to imitate
arches,
made
;
of
wood, painted
times, Tula
marble.
In former
to visit
the
public streets.
Now,
it
is
JJ^^"f^'
^^-
hardware
for the
whole empire
all
containing a
manufactory of arms,
arrive at the inn,
sorts of cutlery,
and
As soon
the room, each bearing a sack filled with trinkets, knives, inkstands, incense-pots, silk-reels,
scissars,
and corkscrews.
Their work
is
showy,
a
it
is
goods
of
the
marks
the
their
all
models.
are
made
these the
strangers, as
able to fabri-
Some
238
CHAP,
of the
'
TULA.
by the
.^
workmen were purposely sent to England late Empress, who neglected no measure
We
asked those
in
our country,
finished.
why
their
They
;
replied,
them
better,
sary time
every
article is the
produce of
be obtained.
The
best
in
artificer
was
a German,
instructed under
English masters
The
late
Empress
she
bought up almost
the
workm.en completed.
distributed
To encourage them,
them in presents. In her palaces, thermometers were placed in every window: and, as they were perpetually broken by the servants, her workmen, in providing a fresh supply, had sufficient demands to keep them
constantly at work.
Imperial I'abric of
^
of of
it.
Icttcr to
in the
Anns.
They
guns,
swords,
&c.
designed
as
TULA.
presents from the inhabitants of Tula to each
239
chap.
.y/
member
These
offerings were,
i
The
true cause,
^
}
f
|
or class of individuals,
mother.
Whatsoever
;
mis^ht
odium
by interrupting the progress of her plans for public improvement; by disby missing her statesmen and her officers poisoning the sources whence she dispensed happiness amongst her people by overthrowing her establishments by blighting the tender but thriving shoots of science and of the arts, which she had planted; by converting good to evil, and
fame
; ; ;
tyranny
(for
Catherine, distinguished by
'
Such was, at
least,
Her
whom
she reigneil.
The
240
TULA.
trace of her brilliant reign
*^
had
disappeared.
sion
The
fell
Russians,
on
the
the
acces-
of ^Paul,
back
into
barbarism
The
polished nations of
learn, that
Europe
as the
will
be surprised to
immortal
name of Catherine appears in their annals, it was almost forgotten in Russia within four years after her death it remained among the number of privations enjoined by the long list of public proscriptions, and was heard only
:
in
wind that
drifted
the
snows
jected
favourites
;
Siberia. At the same time, her were displaced; her ministers re;
her monuments
overthrown
even the
verst-posts,
which bore
taste,
were demolished;
wooden
foolish
chequered
to
suit
the
The Reader
will find
them
"
Secret
Memoirs of the Court of Petersburg," a work attributed to the Count De Segur. Yet, who shall relate the butcheries of the Orlofs,
the Passicfts, and Baratinskies, of Russia
?
All that
Shakspeare has
Catherine
of
work
of her favourites:
Elizabeth
'
TULA.
Tuhy
in its
'241
is
present condition,
1
-,
not likely to
;
because
'
m suthcient
Present state of
chap.
The machinery
and
it
is
worse preserved.
Every thing seemed to be out of order. Workmen, with long beards, stood staring at each other, not knowing what to do; while their intendants and directors were either intoxicated
or asleep.
Notwithstanding
all this,
they boasted
common
particular
order
from
in a
Government,
thirteen
hundred muskets
musket
is
week.
almost
all
name sham
wonfive
how any
besides
fire
and are
The
streets of TularzxQ
paved
its
shops and
and of industry,
shewn
four
rich.
including shopkeepers,
estimated
at
manufactory, consists in
European merchandize,
K
VOL.
I.
242
CHAP,
X.
ill
TULA.
Greek
wines,
and
in
other
productions
of Turkey.
The
six
Imperial manufactory of
;
arms
employed
thousand workmen
The town
in the
^\{i^ niay
be attributed
nomy
in the
for the
morning,
suffice;
and following
night.
If
structed, there is no
method of heating
little
expense and so
many
conveniences.
generally
made
of cast iron
in
unwholesome, but,
very dangerous.
stoves
small rooms,
they are
Why the
where every
expensive,
prefer
of fuel
is
so
amazingly
may be
costly,
explained by those
who
more
hearths.
The
is
of
with stone
daily.
and
it
increases
Many new
an increasing population.
We
observed
women
TULA.
employed in repairing the pavement of the streets, which is kept in good order. The dress of the young females displays their persons to
advantage.
243
chap.
v
,-
.*
arms and
body
It is
in front,
and
drawn
and there
held
by
a small button.
The
neighbourhood of
:
this
iron Mines.
they occupy an
somewhat
with
iron,
hilly,
The
whole of the
the west.
soil
around them
is
is
impregnated
found towards
lies
scarcely
concealed
by a
consisting
of sand
mixed with
From
their ore.
As soon
as
we
left
Tula,
we
from
woronet-..
we were
cattle
and desolate
plain,
on which herds of
were
grazing.
This
R 2
244
apprehension.
TULA.
We
had reason
to
fear
that
being
lofty,
than deserts.
for the
To
however, and
other travellers
route, the
whole distance to
like
JVorojietz
may be
and the
passed
over
a bowling-green,
lightest vehicle
injury.
being
all
the
way
Downs
in
Over the
in these
in patches,
might be distinguished
and
we we
first
seen since
shewn there as a
barbarous
form,
like
the
yew-trees
'.
in
old-
Among
those
(1)
The
is
of animals
time of
tlie
TULA.
copses
245
ciiap.
we
we had
and a species of
Geum
that appeared
new
to us.
The view
above
it,
fVoronetz, is
very
fine.
There
is
not a more
itself,
The town
with
skirting
At the
same
ful
manufactures
same materials as the sandals on their feet'. Numerous caravans were moreover passing from the Ukraine and from the Don; and the whole of
of the
this lively
to
much
older.
JpoUinaris
(lib. 5. ep.
G) be
Chapter IX.
246
FROM TULA
in the frigid regions of the North, that
we seemed
Dediiof.
The rapture, however, was not of long duration. It is impossible to imagine a place more miserable than the
first
town or
miles
from Tula.
The
interstices
filled
with
mud.
one half of
At
first sight, it
and
it is
only
the residence of
much less that it should figure in the Russian maps as a toivn. It is from seeing such places that we may conhuman
ceive
what sort of cities and towns afford the names which we find in the Russian Atlas, so
profusely scattered over the eastern provinces
of the empire-.
The wretched
state of Dediiof
"
more than
so
many
map
as
if
many
provinces."
Secret
Mem.
TO WORONETZ.
must, perhaps, be attributed to causes which
247
chap.
y
may
It
-V- .'
has experienced
both of
fire
and
tobacco-pipe.
came
it,
to him, to
especially in
is
Suddenly, subterrasoil,
rendered
it
all
the houses,
As
is is
soil
found immediately
reason to apprehend,
it
that
all
will
This is rendered
more probable by an event which occurred a few years ago. At a small distance from this
pool, or lake, is another, caused
by a
similar
catastrophe.
The
occupation
is tillage.
248
FROM TULA
southern latitude
in
a direct line
we
observed
many
thistle,
v;ood-straiuherry , plantain,
and the
dock-iueed.
with
hail
Such
acci-
by no means, however,
two.
may be
attributed to the
all
the
removal of which,
passage
well-known
mountain
Horace
describes
the
now
a sight
is
Eoghoro-
(ij
" Vidcs, ut
SoRACTE."
Horat. Lib.
I.
0(/e9.
?'.
1.
TO WORONETZ.
the town of Bo^horoditz.
249
chap.
X.
On
an eminence above
Empress, by
with an estate of
this place, Bobrinsky, son of the late Orlofy has a magnificent seat,
it is
Here,
is
seen
but corn.
pire.
It is
em-
The roads
that the
waggons of the peasants, although laden with stones, pass and repass upon wooden wheels
without any iron
tires.
It is uncertain
roditz
was
built.
their archives
under
a.d. issi.
viTz.
The shopkeepers,
and the
solits
hundred invalid
is
inha-
bitants.
The
their sole
remarkably productive.
It is
said,
that the
and
to Tula.
From Bos:horoditz we crossed boundless plains, ^ without a single inclosure, until we came to
Ceio nikitzkoy.
250
CHAP.
X.
FROM TULA
Celo Nikitskoy.
has, of late
place
For-
merly
it
The
notwithstanding
two feet of good black vegetable earth, lying upon marl. The plants we observed in flower on this day (June Jiftli) are all known in England
the BirdCs-foot Trefoil, the Purple Mountain Milk
Vetch, the Germcmder, the Globe Floiver,
and the
in a
TVood Anemone.
low
and swampy
some
to
the
more elevated
to
situation
it
now
holds;
expedient to set
them on
to the peat,
whereof there
vehemence, in despite of all the efforts made to extinguish them. The inhabitants now suffer
owing to a scarcity of fuel; yet they make no endeavour to collect the peat, and to dry it for their hearths. We saw here a curious
greatly,
funeral ceremony.
The lid of the coffin, formed of one entire piece of wood scooped like a canoe, was not put on till the deceased was laid in his
TO WORONETZ.
grave.
251
all
in
his
wearing
(which
^
chap.
lahha,^
on
his feet
'
were before described). Mead was carried to the grave, to be drunk there, in a bowl with a
number of small wax bougies stuck around the The women kept up a kind of musical rim.
ululation;
in
The
other ceremonial
rites,
were occupied
in
crossing
east,
bowing
their
heads
until they
The
lid
of the coffin
was borne
fol-
body; so
to
seemed as if two
were carried
one grave.
We
Soon
Roish(vy
after passing
we
observed,
towards our
ance of a
ful plant
left,
fine
that beautifull
bloom,
EflVemof.
(1)
252
CHAP,
X.
FROM TULA
improperly leremow, in the Berlin edition of the
great
Map
of Russia.
It is
hill
;
a small insignificant
at the foot of
which
mark
interesting
information
of the
soil, its
cannot
be expected.
The nature
Sterne
much
difficulty as the
sending
him over
an
extensive
plain.
To
journey
many
seem
like inattention;
is
of no moment,
omission.
less
any
Nicolaijevka.
We
to
came
to a place
which it would be
difficult
that of Orlof, as
Berlin
we
laid
Map
it is
(1)
It
may be
if
the
>j
be pronounced as
this
is
perhaps
TO WORONETZ. down
as the government of Orel.
is
953
The female
of the
costume here
very singular.
The caps
women
triangle
front
so
that the
base extends
appearance
w^hich
In their ears
hoop
ladies
rings,
in
worn by
They had
we
Ceio Petrovskia
were much surprised by a spectacle similar to one that Bruce witnessed in Africa. We observed,
at
raima.
a considerable
distance,
it
vertical
columns
of sand, reaching, as
to the clouds,
Our
who was
taken up by
by
it,
in its
fall.
He
we
r.ietz.
ordinary accident.
a large
paved town of considerable extent, situate between the river whence its name has been
254
CHAP,
FROM TULA
derived, and the Sossiia.
'
tirely
rebuilt.
destroyed by
It
fire
1745, and
since
hill,
and
cattle
maintains
considerable
commerce
is in
in
and in corn.
state,
Agriculture here
a very
flourishing
and
the
environs
abound
Its
with wood.
chants,
The
is
artisans,
Fuschari
and
Streltzi.
merchandize
the Ukraine
;
and
carries
on a great internal
and
leather
to the
The
number
We
observed seve-
of smiths,
and other
its
artificers in
iron
alone,
for
is
Eletz
is
renowned
forges.
derived from a mine near the village of Fisnistdenez; the whole district around
which place,
z.
ferruginous
until
make
are
very
liable
to
fall:
therefore
they form
is
the
carried on
TO WORONETZ.
shafts,
255
chap.
There are
are
upon
Don,
and, instead
defective,
and
where
more caution
is
used
In the
streets of Eletz
we
observed large
heaps of stone, for the purpose of building, whereof the substance was porous, and perforated in
animals.
all
directions
by a deposit
of marine
limestone
It
bodies.
may be
J^ral,
(l)
We
found here the Veronica SerpylUfolia, a Cineraria, which c of Gypsophda, grow; and a new species
Rivale and Ranunculus /iuricomus.
ing with
Geum
256
FROM TULA
, of Azof towards the Black Sea; authentic monu'
CHAR
whole
of
common among
in the
antient than
modern
:
nations,
amused us
streets of Eletz
it
blacksmith's boy,
who played
quill.
tunes.
The
used
reeds
in processions, as
tombs.
From
Zadonetz.
Eletz
we continued
continually
tlic
this
route
we were
the Don, the Crimea, and other parts of the South of Russia. These caravans formed a train of waggons, thirty or forty in number, laden with
driedfsh, brandy, wool, corn, &c.
Sometimes they
of an ash colour,
consisted of
cattle
only;
coivs
and hogs, all moving in the same promiscuous herd, accompanied by MaloRicssians, Cossach, and by other inhabitants of
TO WORONETZ.
Malo-Russia and the Ukraine.
distance from Zadonetz,
257
a ferry. This river exhibited a broad, clear, and rapid current. The town stands upon a hill above it, and originally formed one of a line of
forts,
has
now
we
of
In
all
them new houses were building, and the appearance of activity promised improvement.
From
Zadonetz,
full
of flowers, fruit-trees,
and a number of plants, plainly indicating an approach to warmer climates. Apple and other fruit trees sprouted wild, among young oaks, and
other vegetable productions not found nearer
to the
North Pole.
of the
compound word ZadonetZy as if written Zadonsk ; in which manner it appears in the best maps. We have imitated the mode
tion so readily, in the
Donetz
and Donsk are both names of the Don. Farther to the south, and nearer to the mouths of the
river,
VOL.
258
CHAP,
\
FROM TULA
is
sometimes
Z)<2wae^z or Danaets,
is
and Tdanaets;
not very equientertained
,-./
nor can
much doubt be
river.
In
what a
roots
Jordan
Tan y
Ain,
"Eiden,
in
and Colerm,
in
in the
north of Ireland;
the
others.
Ceio
As we advanced through
noj.
Celo
Chlebnoy,
we
be
j^gjjg]^^
^^ ^ distance
upon our
Don,
its
Bestuzevka.
rolling in a
moon
upon
waters.
We halted
;
and
we were somewhat
in
by
to
the singular
manner
which a pea-
by
all
means
proceed
another
stage.
Trifling
often
excite the
and
in this lonely
we were
puzzled
by
conjectures.
TO WORONETZ.
259
into,
^
chap.
yl
.^
a snare
it
many
such adventures,
in nothing.
town of Woronetz, situate upon a river of the same name, near to the spot where it falls into the Don.
CHAP. XL
FROM WORONETZ, TO THE TERRITORY OF THE DON COSSACKS.
Present state of Woronetz
Climate and productions Inundation and Pro duct of Rivers of Buildings Arsenal and external IVinc of Don Commerce, Manners, and of Features Neglect of Change of Persons Tumuli Malo Russians Plains Drou South of IVbronetz Celo Usmany Podulok Moscov Locova Sloskoy Mojocks, Ekorizy, and Paulovskoy Plants im Trade Rash loda conduct of a young Peasant Kazinskoy Chutor Nlzney Momon Dohrinkn Mctscha Kasankaia,
Garden of Peter the Great
the
Increase
internal
the
nied
lestakovo
a Is
jin
first
Stanitza of the
Don
Cossacks.
CHAP.
XI.
In
tlie
reign of
that
monarch came
WORONETZ.
ship of war, there were scarcely an liundred
2r)l
^'^' |''-
the place.
;
It is
now
a very
-.^
sra^e of
Don^
Black Sea.
to
by
Its
merchants travel
into
The Russian
Isvostchick
may be
Siberia.
Sometimes they pursue their course to the coasts opposite to England, and buy English hardware,
cottons,
WoRONETZ, from
It is
its
is
of
warm and
holds an
intercourse Avith
is
Nature
The
anywhere,
is
common
it
at IForonetz
flourishes in
262
^xi^^'
WORONETZ.
^^^ ^^^ inhabitants experience very great extremes of temperature
;
They use
the
all their
apartments.
In
a commentator attempts to
observed
soil
in the
of Woronetz,
those of
by saying
af-
that
ford^.
nitrat
The
earth
is
of potass in
all
and
it is
extraordinary
attributed.
of Tula
abounds with
effloresces
insomuch that
;
it
sometimes
for ex-
on the
soil
tracting
soil
it
upon
(1) (2)
Equal to ninety-five
See Note to
p. 116.
of Fahrenheil.
Votiagcs chez
les
Pevples Kalmouks
ct Ics
Tartares.
WORONETZ.
a steep
built.
203
it
mound
or bank of which
has been
chap.
It
ern latitude.
nate
The vineyards
of Europe termi-
many degrees
neglect
The
cultivation;
importing
of the
Don
It
Cossacks,
Crimea.
used as a
facility for
(3) The Champagne 7wwehas been imitated in England, with succes?, by using gooseberries before they ripen, and by supplying the want of
If
tended
Both are
compounds.
The common Champagne whie drunk in this country is made with green grapes and sugar. The imitation of it, with green gooseberries and
S2tgar,
is
full
as salutary,
and frequently
as palatable.
(Note
to
the
First Edition.)
" par
le
Traducteur."
pagne wine, he
"
leDocteur Clarhe
il
se
permet de
Croit-
que
le
vin de
Champagne
se fasse avec
du
ou
en
puisse passer,
meme
pagne
ivine does
:
formed
it is
made upon
"
des
vnis
264
CHAP,
s
WORONETZ.
establishing extensive vineyards has
!
been offered
,,.
by Nature, the
been
to
entirely neglected.
Gmelin
endeavoured
make
was
in the
town of
Epernai, whither the author repaired for information upon this subject, that, in
the following- statement was given by that gentleman touching the admission of sugar into the composition of their wine
:
Reponse a la 3""^ question " sur les Corps etrangers, suae que peuvent entrer dans la fabrication du viri?
:
tels
que
le
Peut-etre regarderoit-on en
la r6ponse
a,
indiscretion,
de
hommes
les justes
consequences.
"
du
que dans
les
le raisin
n'avrtint pas
characterise
eclaire
dont la base
EST NECESSAinEMENT DU SUCRE; sa fabrication est un secret; cette liqueur mesKe en trSs petits quantity aux vins verts, corrige le vice do Vannee et leur donne absolument la mtme douceur que celle que procure
le soleil
dans
les
annces chaudes.
II s'est (^lev^
en
Champagne meme
une chimhe.
Le
comme
dans toute
le travail
de
la
comme
que
I'art
en a priv^.
tres souvent
il
a mettre en defaut
si
r experience de
pretcndus connoisseurs, et
est
le
WORONETZ.
growth of vines
been paid
;
265
chap.
to his advice.
of ^
.>
Don
They
is
serve
it
with a
eacli
which
drunk.
put into
It is light
when
the wine
is
and
pleasant,
to establish
^7''*^','/^
I eler tnc
in the
neighbourhood of IVoroscale.
^'^'"
This
we
visited;
render a
passage through
it
impracticable.
for the
This garden
growth of use-
plants,
fruit-trees,
vegetables,
and whatto
answer
such a climate
its insti-
but
bestowed upon
;
tution,
into neglect
like
many
other de-
signs calculated by that wise monarch for the benefit of his people, when his power ceased of
Gmelin relates',
in his
all
time,
exerted
possible
means
to restore this
garden
Suvuns FuyugeurSy
p.
14.
266
WORONETZ.
;
^^\'
'
dant crops.
warmer
cli-
tree,
but
was entirely neglected by the people. We found two plants, very rare in England, thriving among the weeds of the place the " Spreading Belltheir better cultivation, as at present,
;
Wales and
ne2iV Marlborough ;
tain Bugle"
{Ajuga
pyramidalis).
The
other
plants which
Inundation and Product of the
Eivers.
we
Stagnant gf Woronelz arc ^ 2fiven in a Note'. ^^ waters, left bv the annual inundation of the river,
_
''
render the place very unwholesome during certain seasons of the year.
in spring
The
inhabitants, both
quartan fevers
these
tack hundreds at
tertian and become epidemic, and atthe same time. The want of
proper remedies
for
Adonis Cucuhalus Belien Salvia nutans Verbascum Phoenicium Chelidonium minus Ranunculus Illyricus Viola
{\h
A new
3?stivalis
tricolor.
WORONETZ.
dropsy, or a consumption.
267
most abundant
sterlet,
perch,
and
pike.
The
swarm
size
;
in
their rivers,
it is
but
it
who use
for food.
When
is
contemn,
and even
The change
and ends
middle
of March.
upon the ninth of June we saw a pear-tree which had put forth a strong scion above a yard in length. We found
the climate so different from that to which we had
we were
;
compelled
of
The beams
and a south-east
(2) It
in the
is
most accurate
journey.
268
CHAP,
XI.
WORONETZ.
wind, like a Sirocco, blew frequently and even
tempestuously
ing the time
we
remained.
we had
them.
of cooling
ting the
we had
made from
New buildings
ronetz
;
were
that
it
was very
difficult to
would soon take place between the town and its suburbs and we were informed that a village or two would also be included. It stands upon the very lofty, steep, and sloping bank before mentioned, havIt
was evident
that a junction
so that,
when
command
light the
Arsenal,
its
weakest
side.
Small
upon
posts, serve to
town.
The
still
streets are
very wide.
The
arsenal erected
by
remains, although in a
WORONETZ.
ruinous condition.
island
269
little
We
visited the
sandy
'
chap.
\-^
ship of war,
when he
It is
store-
here
sent to England,
and
to America,
in vast
quantities.
The
all
the grease
he sent
to their country.
the
for the
purpose
bited a
of
made
this
formerly exhi-
more pleasing
spectacle,
when Peter,
this
superintended
built a
his
works upon
hut,
island.
He
small
wooden
monarch
in the
world, surrounded
by
customed only
a
little
to their rafts
workmen, upon
mound
of war.
Iron
in the
is
extenwi.
270
CHAP,
of the shops.
the
WORONETZ.
They
Large
also
manufacture
cloth for
army
tion of vitriol.
The
cloth factor]/
by Peter the Great, and is derable in Russia. Peter resided here in the and at the same time was also year 1705
;
engaged
in building Petersburg.
talloiu,
In the pre-
paration of
The
^r^^ sort
is
making
soap.
Ten The
sells
sometimes in
If the
merchants con-
amount of one hundred thousand roubles, they receive from them fifty thousand in advance, to enable them to buy cattle. This practice of
purchasing
cattle to boil into tallow
has, of late
a poud of mutton
beef costs
copeeks.
two
roubles,
In return
back
Greek wines.
WORONETZ.
and the wine of the Doji
Cossacks.
271
The
salt
chap.
XL
consumed
markable
in
salt
JVoronetz
lake
in
is
supplied from a
re-
the
neighbourhood of
it
very dear
it is
The
necessaries
however,
The
vous
to Toholshy in Siberia,
for all
frontier of China.
From
immense caravan
several routes.
to Kiatka.
Afterwards, return-
From
tea, raw and manufactured silk, porcelain, and The Chinese, upon their arrival precious stones. at Kiatka, also furnish them with the produc-
Paul.
Thus
laden,
many
us by water to Tcherchask
272
CHAP,
WORONETZ.
of
is
'
so shallow
durin<2f
The best
is
made upon
the Don.
Fourteen bottles
fifty
sell
there for
copeeks.
They
;
are apt to
make
this
it
and perhaps
proves better
may be
red,
wine exhibiting
effervescence'.
Their white
the fruit
ivine
than the
when
is
suffered to ripen
but
this
Change of
Approacliiug
tlic
Southcm part
of the empire,
in-
he
is
cautioned to
in a
Chapter.
(2)
hospitable,
humane,
obliging, gay,
from
cities,
always the
best."
Secret
Mem.
WORONETZ.
the Ukraine, and the Cossacks,
273
^^^^'
^
by an unprincipled
the
Cossack
race
of
men,
with
whom
and
-v -
The
town jail and it is quite unnecessary to add of what nation its tenants were composed. The
;
Russian finds
it
conscious the
with
whom
when engaged
native land,
is
which he has
been educated
district
where he resides with his family and connections, and confides property to his care,
the inhabitant of no country
is
found either
more
hospitable, or
trunk
may
locked,
for a distance
any part of
abandon
it
in the
Don
Cossacks;
I.
and
VOL.
2/4
CHAP,
y
FROM WORONETZ
him at Taganrog, with all its appurtenances, by the unsolicited and disinterested
safe to
\^
>
Who
would venture
to
leave a carriage, or even a trunk, although encased, doubly locked, and duly directed,
among
the Russians f
Change of
Features.
From tlic time we left Tula, a remarkable change was visible m the features of the people this we were unable to explain. The peasants
. . .
had frequently the straight yellow hair of the inhabitants of Finland, and the same light complexion
;
Cossacks.
At
JVoronetz the
Gipsey tribe
was
The
Persons/
by the vapour of
and the unhappy
their
by
sufferer
They send
(l) Of this fact we were assured by Mr. Rowan himself, to whom we were iudebted for many instances of politeness and attention during the time we resided in Moscow.
TO PAULOVSKOY.
only for a police-officer, to note do^vn the
ciimstances of the disaster
smallest effort
;
275
cirv-
chap.
XI.
proceed
in the
ceremony of interment.
woman
netz,
in bathing,
fell beyond her depth. She struggled some time with the stream, and, being carried by it about three hundred yards, was taken out by some peasants before she had either sunk or lost her power of motion. When laid on the earth, she groaned and moved but the water
;
which had been swallowed rendered her face black, and she became apparently lifeless. She was therefore immediately pronounced to be
really dead.
No endeavour
companied
by persuasion and by
of
money, could induce the spectators either to touch the body, or to suffer any remedy to be attempted towards her recovery. They seemed
what they considered as a corpse. In vain we explained to them the process by which persons, so circumstanced,
afraid to approach
are restored to
life in
England.
They
stood at
manner the poor woman was left upon the shore, until it would have been too late to have made use of any means for her recovery. If she were not aftertheir
;
heads
and
in this
wards buried
alive,
T 2
276
^xl^'
'
FROM VVORONETZ
<^^i^^o
*^ ^ shameful
The
pohce-officer gave
his
me-
morial, and
grave.
We
left
crossing the
river at the
plains as before.
which
its
they exhale,
during
warm
vapours as
arise
unwhole-
some
Italy.
as those which
finer
Throughout the
whole of
this
immense
a
plains,
mounds
world,
If
common
to
may
'fmm
monuments of primeval manners, it is this mode of burial. They seem to mark the progress of mankind in the first ages after
afford
rising
the dispersion;
of Noak came.
Whether under
Mound
in
Scandinavia, in Russia, or
JSortk
TO PAULOVSKOY.
j^merica^
;
277
a Cairn in
or of those
a Barrow in England;
or in Ireland;
Wales, in Scotland,
heaps which the
modern Greeks and Turks call Tepe; or, lastly, in the more artificial shape of a Pyramid in Egypt; they had universally the same origin. They present the simplest and sublimest monument that any generation of
men
could raise over the bodies of their forebeing calculated for almost endless
fathers;
duration,
Parian
marble.
When
it
beheld in a
distant
set-
and, as
graved
Some
of those
more
antient,
left
have at
last
(l) See the Journal of a Tour into the Territory North-wast of the Alleghany Mountains, hy Thaddeus Mason Harris; Boston, 1805; for
a very curious account of the Sepulchral Mounds in America; the history of which is lost, as the author expresseth it, " m the oblivion of
a^es."
^2) See
^78
FROM WORONETZ
still
^^^v"-
marks
their situation.
Again, others, by
v-
-'
upon
their
have
These Tumuli are the Sepulchres referred to by Herodotus, in the earliest accounts which
history has recorded of this
mode
of burial'.
The tombs
by
where the Borysthenes is first known to be navigable and they are further described as being;
ance they
now
exhibit.
Maio-
We
frequently
Malo- Russians,
who
from the
Their fea-
tures
are
are
or
Cossacks.
They
to
stouter
and
them
in
more industrious, more honest, more generous, more polite, more courageous, more hospitable, more
of are cleaner, truly pious, and, of course, less superstitious.
men above
They
differs
They
(1) Herodot.
Rlelpom.
c.
71.
TO PAULOVSKOY.
have in many instances converted the desolate
steppe^ into fields of corn.
279
^hap.
^
/-^
drawn by oxen, which proceed about thirty Towards evening, they halt in versts in a day. the middle of a plain, near some pool of water when their little waggons are all drawn up into
a
circle,
and
;
around them
or
take
oflp
bow
South of Woronetz
perfectly
level,
we
soutli
Plains of
a fine turf
finest,
wormeix,
at
The
turf
firm,
mark
dust.
we
experienced
little
or no
this part of
The whole
of these
(2) Steppe
is
the
name
They
280
^^|P'
^
FROM WORONETZ
immense
list
plains
were
enamelled
with
the
-' greatest
variety of flowers
plants
imaginable.
is
The
too
of
we
collected
much
numerous
blossoms,
for the
text'.
The
earth
seemed
aromatic,
to the
and,
in
many
instances, entirely
traveller.
new
eye of a British
of the day,
and
all
the air
was perfumed.
filled
The skylark
with painted
or
was
wings,
either
the
air,
were
seen
Advancing near
tame as domestic
The pools
were
filled
Melons
(l)
nala
known
dioicum
Gnaphnliutn Wood Crane's-bill, Geranium sj/lvaticum Geum Urhanum Cucubalus Otitcs Mouse-ear Scorpion Grass, Myosotis
in
Vicia
Pannonica.
England:
Meadow
Scorpio'ides
(grows on
Newmarket Heath)
banks of the
harbaria.
Cam) Yellow
TO PAULOVSKOY.
although uninclosed grounds near the villages,
covering several acres of land.
281
chap.
\'
At
Celo
Usmany
we were employed
The Echium rubrum, falsely called Italicimi by Gmelin, we first noticed about this place, and it was afterwards very common. It grows chiefly among corn. The women of the Don use it in painting their cheeks the root, when fresh, yielding a beautiful vermilion tint. The peasants also extract
lecting
plants.
;
from
it
a gum.
It is
engraven
in the
"Journal
Gmelin recommended
its
transplantation,
colouring properties
portance.
dula,
objects
of
more imHills
We
is
which
the
upon
the
near
Onosma
echidides,
Veronica Austriaca,
It
is
Pedicidaris tuberosa,
and
Salvia pratensis.
from the
root, of the
women
Usmany
is
entirely
inhabited
case,
by Russians:
towards the
and whenever
thing
this is the
more than a number of stacks of straw or of dried weeds. The female peasants were seated upon the turf, before their huts, spinning.
282
FROM WORONETZ
Their machines are not quite so simple as those
used
of
in
many
parts of Italy.
They
consisted
stick driven
and not
hand
is
employed
manages
that op-
the spindle.
Government
ill
presses them
in these
for
we observed an
before
air of liberty
suited to the
reflections
we had
is
winter here
in
warm
climates
yet the
snow annually
whole
way from
Azof
Podulok Moscovskoy.
From
Celo
Usmany we
where we passed
to light
a candle.
the
weather,
and
destitute
every
life.
comfort
common
convenience
They were
Tver.
TO PAULOVSKOY.
283
The next morning, (June 13th), we passed the ciiap. village of Mojocks, and came to Ekortzy here v-' we halted to take some refreshment mider a Sw~y,
.'
the heat of the Zt!'^^"' sun being almost insupportable. The people
were kind
account, agreeable.
has
ad-
we
vanced from the ordinary hordes of the Russians, the more politeness and hospitality we experienced
;
this being,
The
deserts,
Near
and
to
Ekortty
we added
:
the
Ferhascum
upon a
we
occurred
Drain
jllpina,
and
when he
after-
collection in the
also observed
Clematis integrifolia,
exhibiting
blue
and gold;
with
284
CHAP,
^
FROM WORONETZ
others, which, being less remarkable, are given
'
L(*cova
The
Russians
first
regular
establishment
of
MaloIt
was
all
called
white-washed, like
this
many
is
Wales:
operation
performed annually,
cleanliness
Such distinguished
in the
course
Their
Their tables
interior of cottages in
we
liness.
were
all
They had
and
their gardens
were
filled
with
fruit-trees.
(1)
Other \&T\et\tsoiVerhascum.
^lyssum ineanuni
and montanum.
Sideritis montana.
Varieties of CenUta,
TO PAULOVSKOY.
285
The
Cossacks;
to the Poles
being, doubtless,
all
derived from
one
unmarried
the Malo-
Cossacks.
kelt,
Sometimes, particularly among more aged females, this petticoat consists of two pieces, like two aprons the one fastened in front, and the other behind. The necks of the ^\t:\^
The
off
fingers,
both of
men
is
them
for
own and
of other countries.
is
The
hair of unmarried
women
suffered to
fall
in a long braid
down
Their language
is
pleasing,
and
full
of diminutives.
and manners,
remarkable.
tioned,
is
The
menand
chequered
answers
to the keh
which
in Scotland.
among
286
CHAP,
^
PAULOVSKOY.
ments, the hag-pipe, and the Jeivs-harp:
'
the
common
found
blance
may be
love of spirituous
The Malo-Russians are truly a merry race, and much given to drinking but this habit prevails among all barbarous nations.
liquors.
:
pauiov-
to
Paulovskoy,
upon a high sandy bank, on the eastern side of the Don. It is a small town, and at a but distance makes a pleasing appearance consists of little more than a church and a few
;
wooden houses. The river, broad and rapid, here makes a noble appearance barges, laden with corn, were moving with its
scattered
Close to
its
The Stipa pennata, celebrated in Russian songs, waved its feathery locks, as in almost all
the steppes.
campestris,
had
caused excrescences,
in kindling
plant,
although found at
shire
Whittlesford in
Cambridge-
and
at Stanton in Suffolk,
appeared among
Southernwood,
Woody
Nightshade,
Water Crow-
PAULOVSKOY.
foot,
287
rest
and
Flea-bane.
The
were
all
^\\}^XI.
strangers'.
sive
On
are
low woods, hardly rising above the head these are so filled with nightingales, that
their
songs
heard, even
in
is,
the
town,
There
to
is
moreover,
Elizabeth transported
Moscow.
toned, and
Its
near
croaking
loud
and
;
deepfilling
may
full
This kind of
known
in the
north of Europe,
The
noise
it
makes
is in
be heard
gales.
and sometimes
new
and
and
to
the
night.
silence
opening of Gray's
Paulovskoy,
It
and
was designed
(l)
simplicissiraa
Onosma
288
CHAP,
V
PAULOVSKOY.
as a frontier
'
Tafitars
and Turks,
The
at JVoronetz
not a trace
now
remains.
in
The Gmelms
but
it
is
daily diminishing,
contaius
mduy
animals
common
squirrels.
in
the
sur-
rounding steppes; as
and
the pelican
and
geese.
They
alight at
Such nests are found only upon the small islets of the river, and in places where moss may be procured. They lay two w^hite eggs, about the size of those of the sivan, and employ the same
time in hatching.
If disturbed
;
while
sitting,
taking
them
upon
when they
believe
They
live altogether
The
PAULOVSKOY.
Russian naturalists give a curious account of this
bird's
289
^^}^^'
mode
;
of fishing, assisted
its
by the
cormorant.
The
pelican extends
Then
wings,
the pelican,
its
advances
among
the shallows.
The
tallow
principal
trade
carried
on here
is
in
Trade.
and
fruit
the Water-Melon,
Petersburg.
They
plant
in the
open
fields,
where
steppes
it
In the
we
women hoeing
plant, rarely
That a
should
perfection any^vhere,
thrive
in
its
upon the
and
such a latitude,
very remarkable.
Perhaps
depend upon
In
latitude.
At
even
Egypt
place
it
is
only
where we
its
have
seen
the
JVater-Melon
attain
full
Sarans Voyageurs,
p. 144.
VOL.
T.
290
CHAP,
v.,
PAULOVSKOY.
colour,
/
size,
and maturity,
is
at
Jaffa,
upon
,.
Rash Con-
"s^q fouiicl
*^
ourselvcs
amon^
"-^
,
Russians at Paulov_
aiid
sant
uarrowlv escaped ^
,
with our
.
hves.
The author, benig asleep withm the carriage, was awakened by some person gently opening
the door; and could discern, although in the
night, a
man extending
his
arm
in a
menacing
seize
manner.
Making a sudden
effort to
him
by
escaped
Soon
after
frame of
close to his
head
sounding so like
first
he believed a
pistol
this a
to him.
Upon man in
sleep in
we
of
compelled to
sit
mount
there as sentinel.
Soon afterwards,
all
the party
who were
in the
mn
PAULOVSKOY.
broken every pane of
sell
291
glass.
Determined to
chap.
',
/
we drew
body towards
and set
his bed,
offenders,
which
At the same
carriage,
town
whom
inn.
During
this disorder
He proved
house
;
to
and as
that he
when he had
him
was
upon our account. In a fit of desperate fury, he had therefore resolved to wreak his vengeance upon some of the party,
slighted
if
not upon
all
and
in this
undertaking he had
The
we
ample of him.
to
The.
police-officers
led
him
loth,
it
seemed, nothing'
revenge
292
XL
.
CHAP,
; '
of his confede-
rates
to
be revenged, not
all
but upon
and early
in the
morning we continued
all
our journey.
since Gmelin,
changed,
part of Rmsia.
Ka-jnskoy
We
^o
Kazlnskoy
Chutor,
inhabited
by
The distinction between the two people might be made without the smallest inquiry, from the
striking contrast
cleanliness.
they exhibited of
filth
and
we
>
The
place.
It
was
new
thing to
us,
to
hesitate
whether
we
should
we would
rather
have placed our dinner than upon the table of any Russian prince.
29n
chap.
XI.
v
situate in the
open
steppes.
Amongst
as
it
we
<
esteemed
in
the Archipelago^
and
in
all
Turkish cities.
Boat-loads of them
of Const aritinople.
we
very
large
villages,
and arrived
lected'.
at Nizney ^
-'^'-"''y
Momon.
intense.
The country
similar to
described.
We
solace,
found
when
was
of dust.
It
without water
so
may be
weak
state
fell.
We
considered
it,
most valuin
and afterwards,
(0 Of
the
these,
viz. Goat's-beard,
and Campanula
Sibirica.
We observed
also a
new
species of Lychnis.
294
CHAP.
V,
^.
'
DON COSSACKS.
Kuban Tahtary, derived from it the only means of sustaining the fatigue and languor caused by the heat of the climate and by bad air.
Dobrinka.
Thc Dcxt
and
here,
place
for
wc came
first
to
was Dohrinka
the
time,
we
found
an
establishment
appeared,
Malo-Russians.
a large
If
Russian Government,
its
might be said
a
to
have
residence
in
full
Dobrinka;
of neat
peaceable and
pleasant spot,
little
white cottages,
tenanted by a healthy,
tented,
society,
greatest tranquillity,
in
the
the spies,
other petty
We
were received
and contracted
so often
we had been
accustomed.
to
At
cows belonging
the
inhabitants
; ;
DON
sary
for,
COSSACKS.
295
No
driver
was necesaccord to
into parties,
and retired of
their
own
be milked.
families,
their
numerous
in circles before
supper
merry together, offered a picture of contentment and of peace not often found
within Russian territories
'.
About
Metscha,
2fetscha.
we
Kasankaia,
nitza of the
sac'L^'"''
Don
As we
are
now
we
shall
be particularly
note every
observation that
may
little
known; where
interesting,
of the people
activity in
their
(l)
We
observed
grows
2P()
(^11
DON COSSACKS.
AP.
v.ith
'
the history of
and cha-
racter
all
ModeofTraifU;
llie
Cunacks.
CHAP.
XII.
Arts^ Arinour, and JVeapons Recreations and Condition of Life Suroke, Acenovskaia Of Bolac, of Steppes
Personal
Appearance of Calmvcks
or
the the
the People
to
Depar-
Visit
Camp of
distilledfrom
Mare's Milk
Suslic
Maps
Stragglersfrom
in
Distinction
helween Cossacks of the Steppes and <f the Don Kamenskaia Iron Foundries ofLugan Etymology of
1 HERE
is
chap,
even intimidating,
appearance of a
296
CHAP.
V.
DON COSSACKS.
Cossack.
'
His
dignified
his
y-
his tall
by a crimson
the ease and
air of
Kusankuia.
cockade
give
him an
great
importance.
We found
Kasankaia,
Cossacks in considerable
number
it
at
lounging before
their
seemed as
if
Their dresses
we were entering their capital. were much richer than any thing
we had observed
uniform.
in Russia, although all were Each person's habit consisted of a blue jacket, edged with gold and lined with silk, fastened by hooks across the chest. Beneath
part of which
sash.
Large
and covered
war.
In
their boots.
stead
is
substituted a switch, or
:
this
every Cossack
being at
at a
all
moment's
is
because
It
becoming
to
adds
DON COSSACKS.
considerably to the height,
299
gives,
and
with
y
chap.
,-
most
insignificant figure.
They wear
their hair
upon the
soft
crown
it
is
straight.
The cap
covered by a very
and
civil
Some
of
them have
;
wearing
in
yellow,
;
and
'
There is no more neat with regard to dress and, whether young or old, it appears to become them all. A quiet life seems quite unsuited to their disposition
:
they
loiter
about,
to war,
seem distressed by
House of
"'
man.
we
arrived.
was given to all the inhabitants, not to quit the town without his knowledge, until every thing
the travellers might require should tained and provided.
be ascerconduct us
He begged
it
;
to
and brought
own
house, which he
300
^}}^\^^'
DON COSSACKS.
gave up entirely to our use.
situate,
It
was pleasantly
arcade, or
wooden
gallery
in this gallery
we
His
we remained.
court-yard
it
;
in the
and
our
this
for
We
It
to
descend into
;
upon which we saw sterlet from the Don, game, and other luxuries. The house was perfectly clean and
was
comfortable
resist the
so
much
so,
that
we
could not
to
pressing invitation
made
us of
It
was amusing
to observe the
temporary
re-
but the moment the assembly was dissolved, he passed unheeded among them, receiving no
greater
of the other
election is
Cossacks.
an
office to
which the
annual; but
i^ mi. Ataman
be particularly popular,
he
his station,
by
re-election, during
DON COSSACKS.
predecessors had generally changed
time arrived.
'
301
when
that
the
the
^^
chap.
,
We
soon
perceived
by great
little
livehness and
disposed to a
sedentary
violent
life,
and
In
when
are roused.
they
betray
great
vehemence.
may
there-
However indisposed a
Usten to those false alarms
ideal
Dan-
coTmtry.^
who wish
territory,
to explore
it is
their
not possible at
times to disre-
whom we
journey,
who
from the danger of traversing what was termed " the deserts of the Don Cossacks" The event, however, served to convince us of the misrepresentation,
statements.
302
CHAP.
DON COSSACKS.
Among the
exposed
to
Russians, indeed,
we were
constantly
danger
it was hazardous to detect, or from insult that it was fearful to resent; and in both cases the
consequences affected
first
our security.
In the
view of the
Cossacks,
we
beheld a brave,
If
we
ques-
tioned them concerning the dangers of the country, w^e were referred to districts tenanted by wandering Calmucks ; yet we afterwards
in the
At
We
;
doubted the
concluded,
fact
in
the
first
instance
but
if the mail had been really was committed by the Russians, who raised the clamour, and not by the Cossacks, to whom the robbery had been imputed. In
that
the
a desperate
bitter
and many a
remembrance of chastisement
vilify
people
whom
they
fear.
The
is
justified in acting
uniformly done
as
that
withdrawing
much as possible from all communion with men whose association might corrupt, but
could
never
promote,
the
welfare
of their
DON COSSACKS.
society.
less
3(>'
be confessed, that
and
to place a
riage
at
night;
precautions,
among whom we
doing,
One
the habit
it
occasions
trivial incidents.
The
first
among the Cossacks we were full of idle fancies. The Ataman was intoxicated, and set off, accompanied by his
night of our residence
wife, into the country; leaving us in possession
of his
house.
altercation
to other Cossacks,
and pointing
to our carriage,
we had
heard began
preparation
and
we imagined some
;
was making to rob us for which purpose it was necessary to get rid of the Ataman and his wife, as they might otherwise be made responsible for our safety. The apprehension of our
servants
did not diminish the suspicion thus
304
DON COSSACKS.
excited;
'
''
XII.
,
CHAP,
and
we
'
J had
1
equipage so attended.
we had
every reason to
was making an important concern of the most trifling business, such as the cording and repairing our wheels, and a few other commissions which we wished to
intoxicated persons,
have executed.
often
Travellers, so circumstanced,
make a
injury;
great
who intended no
by congratulating themselves upon an escape, where there was no ground even for
and
finish,
apprehension.
Voyage by
Water.
\^q rcccivcd a
arrival,
visit,
bouring
place.
who chanced
to
be
in
the
the
He
down
saying,
for
that
its
it
would
require
month
also
performance.
The
to im-
mosquitoes
the water;
are
liable
DON
COSSACKS.
305
Below the town, which stands upon the western bank of the Don, we beheld this river, augmented to a most magnificent piece of water,
rolling in a full
its
and copious
tide,
and marking
by clumps
but
all
of trees
beyond
is
We bathed
The
fine sterlets
We
preserved
were
Another sort of
but quite equal to
lik the
bream
in shape,
the
at
sterlet in
flavour.
We
had one
served
pounds).
The women of this place are very beautiful. The shops are supplied with several articles of
luxury, such as loaf-sugar, ribbands, costly silks,
Among
the
more numerous articles oflfered for sale were sabres. The Cossacks call this weapon Sabla the Poles and Malo- Russians, Sabel. We ob;
kind
306
^xii^'
DON COSSACKS.
of puppets, common in Calabria, which are carried
'
<
Amusementsand
by the
all
Euvope, wcrc
much
ui
vo^c
hcre, consistmg oi
:
the People,
two Small
fingers
figurcs
suspcndcd by a string
this
is
held by a gimlet
and,
screwed
dance
table or
floor;
by the
manage them with great dexterity, and often collect a crowd We saw in the streets of London and Paris.
to the tune.
The
Calahrians
hornpipe.
j is
it
licentious.
As
ap-
the
dance
to the small
rooms of
their
move from
arms
one
spot.
The
expression
is
conveyed by
especially of the
exhibited
moving
the other,
the
shoulder
held
up near the
all
ears,
common
in
to
the
dances of
the
inhabitants of the
the
Pacijic
Ocean.
DON COSSACKS.
In the evening of June l6th, table stanitza, crossing the
307
hospi-
we left this
raft.
chap.
Departure.
Don upon a
The
so
we had been
we had
do not
given
them.
*'
sell their
hospi taliti/'.''*
The view
of Kasankaia,
is
very
fine.
church,
right
and
left
are
wooden houses.
stantly
The Don
busy
ex-
which
river
is
con-
the ferry.
Kasankaia,
chalk;
all
parts of
to
the
above
seems
rise
flow
over a bed of
and
its
South
consist.
wood almost always accompany its course; but these diminish as it draws nearer to Tcherkask, the inhabitants of
(1)
"
et uii
etranger qui y voyag-e n'a jamais beoin de faire de la d^^pense pour Scherer Annaks de la Petite Russie, son logenieiit et sa nourriture."
tomel. p. 103.
Paris, 1788.
X 1
308
CHAP,
XII.
V
DON COSSACKS.
which town derive
'
all
their
wood from
the
Volga.
As soon
Steppes,
as
we had
left
Kasankaia,
we
entered
the steppes in
They
are
bleak
and desolate as
their
may
of a
rising as high as
full
of flowers,
collection of
this
No
herbage.
The
soil,
although neglected,
oaks, in
very
fine.
We
The
passed some
the
first
we had
;
ever seen.
use
in clearing
the
where a carriage
expeditiously pass.
veying our
speed
if
We were pleased in surarmed band, going at full but thought it would avail us little,
little
the stories
we had
really
steppes
were
true.
For ourselves,
we
were destitute of any defensive weapons, excepting our sabres and these were under lock and key, in the sword-case. We relied there;
Cossacks,
who seemed
quite
DON COSSACKS.
delighted even with the thought of a skirmish:
309
proud of
plains,
their
armed with
twelve feet
in length.
accoutred',
we proceeded
of swamps,
a spot
full
pools. Near to these number of caravans had stagnant waters, a Mosquitoes were here in great also halted. number, and very troublesome. Our Cossacks passed the whole night upon the damp ground,
muddy
and
in the
open
air,
carriage.
must
the
in
Pontine
being
in
full
of
tall flags,
which was
whose croaking overpowered every other sound during the night. But in the morning, the
chorus of a great variety of birds, with the
The
s^ver Lozovay.
name
of this place
was
and hereabouts
its
source.
We
followed
(l)
to this
Chapter.
310
its
CxVLMUCKS.
tardy and almost stagnant waters through
named from
it,
Verchnia
Lazovaia.
nip-a and
On its banks we
common
in Eno'land.
Visit to
Camp
We
of
.
afterwards
.
caijnucks.
lu
tlic
oi
our route.
people,
it
As we much wished
w^as
this
them
The
approaching with
seemed
throw them
We
to
backwards and forwards from one tent another, and moving several of their goods.
near, on foot, about half-a-dozen
As we drew
came towards us, stark naked, excepting a cloth bound about the waist, with
gigantic figures
skins,
and
They began
and
a
in
little
we were
to
We
with the
foremost,
which seemed
them, and
we were
N^ar
flesh,
to its entrance
marmots.
CALMUCKS.
rats,
311
chap.
althousfh
were difficult to distinguish the sexes, so horrid and inhuman was their appearance. Two of them, covered with grease, were lousing
each other
;
and
it
Through a grated lattice, in the side of the tent, we saw some younger women peeping, of more handsome features,
as
entered.
we
hair,
hanging
wore
shells,
or
some substance
old
much
eating
resembling pearl.
The
women were
from large
Others,
raw
horse-flesh, tearing
in their
it off"
hands.
smoking tobacco, with pipes not two inches in length, much after the manner of Laplanders.
In other respects,
the
among
better
the Calmucks
is
of the Laplanders.
The
constructed,
stronger,
more
spacious,
life
;
such
beds,
handsome
carpets
312
CHAP,
XII.
CALMUCKS;
and mats, domestic
utensils,
ments of
art
The
more
in
all
Calmuck
both are
filthy in their
so,
other nation.
We
by asserting,
common;
deferring,
same
time,
all
subject until a
We
shall
Of Brandy
distilled
Evcrv ouc
the brandy,
dlstil
lias
heard
from the
Mares!
The manner
and perhaps
is
(1)
Those
they
are constructed of
camel's hair.
and covered with a thick felt made of Iq the Calmuck language they are called Khalitku;
canes,
their migrations, have gi\en
name to the summer vehicles of Russia, (2) The Esquimaux Indians of /Imerica, the
Laplanders, speak the same lan2;uage, and have the same swarthy complexion.
When
La-
the natives.
CALMUCKS.
:U3
chap.
They assured us
distilled
that the
from butter-milk.
overnight
butter;
fire
is
they
collect
into
the
is
morning
distilled
cattle,
over a
made with
of the
clear
fire,
particularly
dromedary, which
like peat.
But
It
By
every information
we
here, but in
many
we
after-
wards
and the
making the koumiss, tliey sometimes employ the milk of cows but never, if mare's milk can be had as the koumiss from
by
distillation.
In
milk.
is,
as of
tity of
warm
till
mare's milk.
little
To
this
they further
add, as a leaven, a
the
mass
fermentation ensues.
To produce
314
CALMUCKS.
the vinous fermentation, artificial heat
agitation is
and more
sometimes necessary.
This aftbrds
what
is
called koumiss.
subsequent process
beIn
own language
to the
names
of our East-India
spirit,
and
arrack.
We
bottle of
it,
and considered
as very
weak bad
common
spirit distilled
Some
in
of their
women were
The
busied making
it
an
adjoining tent.
Their
or of very coarse
clay
and
for the
ployed a cane.
entirely
The covered by a
was The
The woman
distillery,
spirit,
thrust a
extremity,
through
the
external
covering of
drew out
CALMUCKS.
ment above her head, scattered
liquor in the
this
air.
315
the remainins:
chap.
XII.
-^
We
first
drop
The
the
second time
was then phmged into the receiver a when more brandy adhering to camel's hair, she squeezed it into the palm
stick
;
to
our
lips.
The covering
;
and well-made mats, such as we see brought from I?idia and also of felt, or coarse woollen cloths. Whenever a Calmuck marries, he must
build one of these tents, and one also for every
child he has
die,
by
that marriage.
If
a husband
his
widow becomes
unmar-
ried
women is exhibited in the manner of dressing their hair. A married woman wears her hair
braided, falling over her shoulders, and on each
side of her face
;
braid hanging
down
all
of a circular form.
Near
to
we observed
Grecian
eame
(before
mentioned
as
316
CHAP,
V.
CALMUCKS.
common
^
in
XII. ..,
We
r
delighted
copeeks.
them by making a scramble with a tew They were quite naked, and perfectly
off,
black.
Farther
were grazing.
Personal
Appearance of Calmucks.
Qf ^H
and manners.
appearance,
Their hair
is
their language
y
Bu-
Persia, India,
their vagrant
habits, they
may be found
in all the
southern
The
Cossacks alone
with them".
(1)
in
dice,
chess, nine-pins,
(2)
it is
that
" Calmuck
iheir intelligence
in that capacity
and
fidelity ;"
and we
recollect seeing
some
families in Petersburg.
whom we saw
(a
second
among
Some Russian
in
family had
pre-
viously sent
him
He had
many
nomade Calmucks.
CALMUCKS.
317
although nothhig
High, promilittle
women
is
ciiAr.
XII.
very
eyes,
flat
and
broad nose
nent ears
coarse,
greasy,
;
jet
black hair
compose no very
nance
however,
we may
do
it
justice.
Their
women
The
are
uncommonly hardy
and on
in the
saddle,
in
order to
are true.
knowledged that this practice among them during a journey, and that a stako
so dressed
their large
palatable.
cutlers,
and other
Arts.
'MS
CHAP,
V
CALMUCKS.
artificers In copper, brass,
'
-y-
goldsmiths,
who make
and
persons
women,
for their
idols of gold
altars
;
silver,
and vessels
also
enamelling, and
many
fact,
One
very remarkable
namely,
may
bear repetition;
efflores-
to
crystallize
pound the crystals with two parts of sulphur, and as much charcoal then,
;
it
in a caldron
over a charcoal
Armour, &
Wiiapou->
fire,
until the
powder begins
to
grauulatc.
The
generality of Calmuchs,
when
equipped
head by a helmet
to this is fixed a
net-work of iron
rings,
falling
brows
in front.
their body,
after the
positions of the
body
and
(l)
p. 434.
CALMUCKS.
ought therefore rather to be called a
a
coat,
shirt,
r^lO
than
of mail.
The most
in Persia,
manufactured
of
fifty
and valued
only for
are
horses.
tin,
The cheaper
and
but
sell
sort are
six
made of
or eight
scales of
horses
each;
these
more common
among
carry fire-arms
these are
always
and kept,
of badgers'
cases
made
the
ordinary
fir,
sort,
Recreations
and
horse-racing.
They
are
not
anl Condji^n
without interruption.
Upon such
is
oc-
brandy
and
koumiss ;
placed upon
a circle,
seated
around
it.
One
of
them,
performs the
office of
cup-bearer.
The young
320
CHAP,
'
CALMUCKS.
by the men, and begin
is
women
place themselves
kept up
stock of liquor
is is
expended.
During
all this
ceremony, no one
harmony
of the assembly,
by
riot
or intoxication.
the
the hala-
or two-stringed lyre;
paintings.
often represented
in their
Pagan v/orship which were common to the earliest mythology of Egypt and of Greece. The arts of Painting and Music may be supposed
to
have
continued
little
liable
to
alteration
among
consist
of their history.
more
in
backgammon, and
is
Their
love
of gambling
the clothes
upon
their body.
In short,
it
may
CALMUCKS.
be said of the Calmuch, that the greatest part
of their Hfe is spent in amusement. Wretched and revolting as they seem, they would be indeed miserable, if compelled to change their
321
chap.
mode
people.
of living
for
that
of a
more
civilized
relate,
that
they
deem
able, that to
when
is
making
visits
of embassy
or
commerce,
Among
the
itch
:
the
diseases
caused
by
their
diet
and want of
cleanliness,
may be mentioned
very subject.
Ma-
heat of summer.
great
in
The venereal
it
ravages
is
said
to
those
camps where
to
their
princes
and not
orders.
They
disorder a
in
it
name
which they
*'
mode
of
life,
by
calling
The house
this people,
we
shall only
now add
the obser-
mentioned
who,
"
(l)
Or, rather,
I.
who
live in
hmses."
VOL.
322
CHAP,
to
CALMUCKS.
which they are exposed, places
their situ-
ation in a point of
haps, than
he,
*'
we have
to
may be
reduced,
is
sorrow,
despair.
and
they
are
never
subdued
by
The
life
generality,
notwithstanding a
mode
of
attain to a robust
Their
dangerous.
or
fifty.
at forty
uncommon among
life
them
still
and
at that
advanced period of
they
manship.
* ;
inured, vigorous,
employment
such are
Leaving
this
encampment,
we
continued to
(1) It
is
Cuhnucks.
which
consists of
any of the
the earth
; ;
DON COSSACKS.
and passed a very neat
village belonging to a
323
chap.
A. 11.
desolate plains.
As we advanced, we
villages,
per-
there
are
and
numerous
population.
manuscript
map
of Tcherkask
No
of the country.
territory
Cossack
in
might
suppose himself to be
a desert, although
the road,
it
surrounded by
villages.
From
is
we were we
crossing a river,
in the
be
midst of
an uninhabited country,
the right and
left
beheld villages to
cealed
not a single
We
were approaching,
now
aug-
(2)
"
oq
we may not
perhaps,
without
to
issue,
and water,
for the
less diligent,
and
less
social,
quadruped."
Historij
of the
Roman Empire,
Y 2
324
DON COSSACKS.
merited to a considerable river.
As we drew
with
Before
we
arrived
at u4ce7iovskaia,
tainous.
village,
On
its
western side
with a
we beheld
a neat
situate
called Jernvchaia,
hills,
pleasingly
beneath the
church.
good, and
much
superior to
At the top of
all
this
country.
They become more numerous, and appear of greater magnitude, nearer to the Don and to the
Sea of Azof.
current rapid,
we had the
opportunity of bathing;
to all travellers,
Acenovs/caia,
From
tation.
Acenovskaici,
we
Dromedaries were
feeding,
the
sole
(l) Acerhi
fever to
which
are liable
air
and heat of
DON COSSACKS.
tenants of these wide pastures.
325
CHAP.
XII.
upon the back of one of them, as the animal was kneeUng: it rose immediately, and, with a very majestic pace, bore him towards the carriage. Our horses were so terrified at the
sight, that
we had
The
great
difficulty
tranquillizing
them.
to
undertake an expedition
;
very distant
his curiosity,
regions
when, having
satisfied
as
with some
he continued
our
eyes could
fol-
low him.
Innumerable inhabitants, of a smaller race,
people
these
ofUie
Bobac' of
'^
'^'^'"''
immense
is
plains.
Among
the
number
It
of them,
;
call Suroke
grows here
badger
(2)
vol. III.
p. )20.
PI. 144.
In
the
first
edition
we had described
this
tacles, of the
which naturalists have sometimes confounded it. The holes, or recepBohac are lined with the finest hay ; and it is said that
is
The Bohac
is
the
Mus
Aictoiuys of Pallas,
326
^xn^'
DON COSSACKS.
^^^ ^ much resembles the hear in its manner and appearance, that, until we became acquainted with
it
its
real history,
we
considered
it
as a non-descript animal,
subterranea.
and called
mistakes
Ursa
not
minima
Such
are
uncommon
add
to the
in zoology.
Naturalists frequently
fluous appellations
beautiful
little
quadru-
under
Mus
jaailus. Subterraneous
it
is
crocodile.
We
shall describe
more
minutely
is
hereafter.
Our
is
present
all
its
business
seen in
sitting erect,
near to
observing
all
around.
It
makes
and
has
perforated in
all
directions,
found.
a greyish brown
its
it
five fingers
upon each of
much
resemble
after the
used and
dark,
DON COSSACKS.
and bright: the
every thing
tail is
327
"\^^'
devours almost
time of
'
finds,
and remains
its
existence.
Many
four:
of
the
keep
surokes
tame
us
in
in their houses.
We
purchased
travelled
no less than
with
us to study
our
thereby
enabling
their habits.
little
The
(1)
Having mentioned
this little
its
animal,
it
may
be well to say
Tolish traveller in
the better,
The precaution was first recommended to us by a Denmark. Any small do^ (the more diminutive because the more portable, and generally the more petuwhere the
traveller
liable to attacks
by water,
as in the Archipelago.
shrill
They
instance of one
that enabled a party of mariners to steer clear of some shallows, by barking at a buoy, which, in the darkness of the night, they had not perceived. The instances in which our little dog was useful, it is
needless to relate.
But
it
may
gratify curiosity to
be informed, that,
it,
he
his masters
accompanied
in
different
a journey on foot, keeping up with horses, from Athens, through all Greece, Macedonia, and Thrace; making the tour of the Archipelago,
to Constantinople ; and thence, in the
Jiulgaria,
328
DON COSSACKS.
peasants universally
Washj.
They
Sepiemher their
make
their
appearance
beginning of
jipril.
They
may remain
and
sleep
the least
to
observation,
during
the
winter.
To awaken
and sometimes
they find
kills
them.
They gnaw
shoes,
every thing
in
their
all
way;
kinds
of roots,
They made havoc with the lining of our carriage; which was of morocco leather. As soon as they have done eating, they become so drowsy, that they even fall
or vegetables.
When awake, they are very active; and they surpass every other animal in the rapidity with which they burrow in the earth.
motion.
They resemble guinea-pigs in making a grunting noise; and when surprised, or much pleased,
or in any degree frightened, they utter loud
DON
wolves
COSSACKS.'
in
329
steppes
the
are
^
^^{\^'
-y-'
and bears;
also a
quadruped
to
called
TheBirpkc.
attack
their
men.
The
Cossack peasants,
armed with
has a long
full tail,
reaching to
it
From
by
we
suspected
to
be the same
lation Chakal,
and said
to
be between a wolf
and a dog; but whether it be the same kind of Jackal which is found in Syria and in
Egypt, or not,
we
of
all
way from
by
this
name they
Near the
may be
little
This interesting
Citillus
animal
;
supposed
to
be the Mus
it
of Buffon
and a description of
this
will
now
prove whether
It
it
makes a whistling
is
much
smaller,
It
small weazel.
constructs
habitation under
330
CHAP,
DON COSSACKS.
ground with incredible quickness; excavating,
first
of
all,
perpendicularly,
thence, like a
level,
correct miner,
shoots
out a
to prevent being
incommoded by water.
little
At
a
gallery
it
forms a
as to
this,
brings, every
Nothing
habits.
If
to observe its
is
seen
sitting,
upon
hinder
feet, like
is
whatsoever
going on around
In the be-
as nothing annoys
is all
them
poured
into their
The Cahnuch
article of food;
them as an
is
the
Cossacks.
this
enemy
the
falcon:
bird
and supper of
DON COSSACKS.
ten young ones at a time;
331
it
and
is
supposed,
suslic
chap.
^.
does
All
'
body
Its
is
of a deep yellow,
is
neck
beautifully
the
belly a
it
mixed
colour
of yellow
and grey:
reddish
rest
has,
moreover,
black
forehead,
white
of
its
The
;
head
race
is
of an ash-coloured yellow
Among
the feathered
the
steppes,
we
particularly
or
Elders,
which appear
is
in
stitious veneration.
One
its
of these birds
about
but
colour
its
is
brown;
is
the breast
elegant.
is
wliite;
and
shape
very
Such are the observations which we made during the second day of our journey across
the steppes.
Suchovskaia,
chinskaia,
We
halted
at
place
called
Nature of
in
to Rosso- named
Maps.
waste.
Yet such are often the villages, not to say towns and cities, which figure in the
This place consisted of a single
Russian maps.
332
^
*
DON COSSACKS.
^^^^^"^8"' ^^i^t of a
>
xtf* ,-
thatched
heaped.
by The
Cossack
inhabitants
sleep
among
the thatch.
grew dark, a tremendous thunder-storm on, and a very interesting spectacle was disclosed by the vivid flashes of lightning. The
As came
it
Cossack
place,
people of the
different
Every
All around
was demore
to
and
to
silent.
sene
render a
It
is
devotion
striking.
Cossacks,
sleep,
make
the
globe.
similar
worship, exists
in
among ignorant people, even our own country. The author, when a child.
DON COSSACKS.
was
333
chap.
XII.
" Four
corners to
my bed.
:
antl
John,
ou."
party of
.
Cossacks
^
arrived
as
pilg-rims,
.
stragglers
from the
homeward from the war in Italy. We afterwards met numbers, who had traversed on foot the whole of the immense terrireturning
tory from the Alps to the Don, and
Army.
who
arrived
They were
commanders.
little
it
Some
of the Italian
Russian
officers,
having
them of every thing they had, turned them adrift upon the frontier of Itali/y One of them to find their way home on foot. assured us, that he had begged during the
first
stripped
whole journey;
left
the
and even his clothes. We gave them a little brandy and the poor people of the hut brought
;
them some
herbs.
all
broth,
sat
made with
it
fish
and wild
their
They
around
in a circle, eating
334
CHAP,
DON COSSACKS.
supper, began to sing.
So
i
relative is
human
r-~j happiness
Distinction
We
June.
left
ii
i
Rossochuisliaia
zo
on the
eighteenth
of
between
Cossacks o?
and of the
'^'
and are a
along
different race
capital,
Cossacks of the
stanitzas
and those
the
Don.
Lieutenant-Colonel
and
told
talent, of
whom we
upon every occasion, the extraordinary number of tumuli, seen during the whole route but the Reader
It
would be tedious
to notice,
is
place
where we halted
this
day,
there
;
were two
one on each
mounds
The horses here were without shoes, and the road was as excellent as it is possible to imagine. The whole comitry reside of the road.
'
sembled one vast verdant lawn. Stories of danger were renewed the lances of our Cossack
:
escort were
and an
DON COSSACKS.
unusual
335
degree
of
caution prevailed
them, as to
their
means
of defence.
:
>
these they
look-out
in
the
interior.
We
the
Danaetz,
generally
written
Donetz
we
was upon
"
great figure, as
it
we descended
its
fine
church, and
itself,
gardens
the
river
also,
had a
We
which
is
is
common
into the
and
made
same form. The Ataman was at his countryseat and we were told, that all the principal Cossacks had their houses for summer residence
;
in the country.
a young Calmuck woman met us, sitting astride upon a horse laden with raw horse-flesh, which hung like carrion before her on either side. She was grinning for joy at the treasure she
336
DON COSSACKS.
had obtained
really
:
this
we
afterwards found to be
dead horse, lying in the ditch surrounding the town on the land side, had attracted about thirteen dogs, which we
carrion.
much
of the
carry away.
suroke, as large as
common
terrier, perfectly
domesticated.
that
to
there buried
spring,
it
Upon
the
to
approach of
its
regularly
its
returned
patron;
resuming
begging
for
as before.
It
would always come to him, during the summer, when called by the name of Washy ; but all the bawling he could use, at the mouth of its
burrow,
season.
never
drew
it
forth
in
the winter
ironFounLugan.
it
and cannon-foundry
these, at the time
we
DON COSSACKS.
territory,
337
Sir Charles
^
chap.
Gascoigne\
lery
>
consequence of
this discovery,
The remarkable
logical notice.
maps
it is
written Dnnnez;
and
in those of
Germany, Donetz.
We
paid the
Cossack officers
who, by
to the
termining the
mode
in
it
manner
''
be Danaetz, althouoh ~
a
Etymology word
Tanais.
quently pronounced, as
TdanaetZy or Tcmaets.
or nearly so,
that
D,
But
the
name,
was given by
the Antient
(1)
The author
is
edition.
manner
British laws.
He was
and was Empress Catherine, through the medium of Admiral Greig, her First Lord of the Admiralty, to enter into her
formerly Director of the Carron IVorhs
Scotlnvd ;
solicited
by the
late
service
1786.
VOL.
I.
338
^xn^'
DON COSSACKS.
^^^^^^
*^ ^^^ 1^0^'
Tandis.
may now be
explained.
was introduced
had
re-
The
subject
is
curious
but
it
requires a better
knowledge of the geography of the country, and better documents concerning the course of
the rivers,
afford.
than any
map
We
shall therefore
observations
by an
outline,
copied
Chan-
Had
it
we might have
;
calculated
geography of
of Azof.
It
was prepared
conse-
by a party
army: but some agents of the police, apprized of the circumstance, endeavoured to
Cossack
we were
by
spies,
and we
to profit
their intended
In the
first
place,
the Reader
is
requested,
Map,
to
suppose him-
DON COSSACKS.
self enterinof the
339
chap.
XII.
mouth
.
ceeding up the
ninety-nine
rather
riv^er,
'
to the distance of
its
about
miles
from
embouchure,
and
more than forty-six^ above the town of Tcherkmk. Here he would find the Danaetz, falling into the Don by two mouths separated from each other by a distance of ten or
twelve miles.
for
time
that,
before
leaves the
Don
This northern-
most mouth of the Don (represented in the annexed Map^), owing to the river whose waters its channel is supposed peculiarly to contain, is
called Danaetz, and, to express either
its
sluggish
current or
its
Dead Danaetz.
The Greeks,
first
river.
It
bore
then,
Tdanaetz, or Tanaets
it
(1)
forty versts.
Map
of the
Mouths
of the Don.
(4) It
mode
0/ Azof.
Z 1
340
CHAP,
XII
DON COSSACKS.
these
;
for
it
will readily
would be derived'. Even in the present day, the analogy between the words is so striking, that, in hearing Tahtars and Cossacks name
this
if
uttered
fre-
seemed as
pronounced Tandis as Tanaetz. To distinguish this branch of the Don from the
Danaetz, properly so called, they add to each an
epithet;
We
skaia.
traversed continued
steppes,
Camps
of Calmucks
were
often stationed
We visited several;
we
women
all
absent
Tlie
women
having
stilling
confirmed what
we had
heard before,
distillation
:
made
were
di-
brandy.
We
could
(l)
D into
is
coumon
exposed.
DON COSSACKS.
hardly conceive that brandy might be so obtained
;
34
ciiap.
XII.'
but to prove
it,
still,
as upon a former occasion, presenting- a tuft of camel's hair soaked in brandy, that
taste,
we might
latter
and be convinced.
During the
we
observed many
dromedaries, grazing.
Dubovskaia.
We
towards the
burden
is sufficient
re-
We
dried
fish, to
Russia,
from
their
who might be supplied with better food own land than from all the rivers of
the Cossacks.
We proceeded to Grivinskaia,
the night
;
Qth,
we
came
ties of
Calmucks
(2)
versts.
342
CHAP,
DON COSSACKS.
belonging to the Cossacks of Teller hash.
As we
entirely
steppes
were
beautiful
little
qua-
some of these were white. Approaching Axay, numerous camps of Calmucks appeared in
every direction, over
town.
all
Some
of their tents
to the place.
CHAP.
CAPITAL OF THE
Arrival at Axay
XIII.
DON COSSACKS,
the
Puhlic Entry Reception ly Don Cossacks Population of Territory View of Don Celelration of a Court Festival Mode of Fasting Analogy between Don and Nile Natural and Antiquities Fishes Extraordinary
their
the
the
the
Curiosities
Appearance ofTcherkask
ings the
Origin of Cossacks Causes of EmigrationsFoundation of Capital Commerce of Tcherkask Polished Manners of People Reniarkable IVager Survey of Town Entire People Greek moved Diseases of Impostor Departure from Tcherkask.
their Increase
their
sians
the
the
Hojises
the
of
Tnslovshaia
met
us,
as
chap.
XJII.
Axaij,
He
344
^^j^-
DON COSSACKS.
^^v
Axay.
Arrival at
inhabitants,
that a
was upon
the road
Public
town.
The Postmaster, with his drawn sabre, rode bare-headed by the carriage-side and in this conspicuous manner we made our entry. As the annual inundation of the Don
van.
;
had
its
and almost
Axay.
arrival,
were
in
We
it.
;
witness
mediately
Reception
drawn out to The Ataman of Axay came to us imand we took care to undeceive him
officers
It
seemed
to
make no
alteration,
either in the
disposed to give.
politeness
Every possible
attention
and
were manifested.
We
expressed an
Tcherkask the
same evening. The Ataman observed, that the day was far advanced that the current of the Don, swoln by the inundation, was extremely
;
undertake to be responsible
our safety,
if
we
persisted in
our determination.
He had
DON COSSACKS.
already provided excellent quarters, in a spacious
345
saints, virgins,
and bishops,
could afford.
seat,
whose pictures covered the walls, Their General was at his countrythe town'
:
an express
was
mean
were stationed
at our carriage
and an
time
officer,
we remained
same
and although
officers,
we
we
never
went out without finding the and the officer at his post.
sentinels in waiting,
who
(1)
" Most
Tcherkask, which
they
make
their metropolis
bank of the
river.
Platof, the.
Ataman,
the east
He
had, however, no
little
to
Ary
greatly.
raisins.
The The
me
much drunk.
salt in
it ;
with a spoonful of
Platof himself took a glass of brandy, as if brandy was hardly strong; enough."
Heher's
MS.
Journal.
346
CHAP,
DON
COSSACKS.
their
own
accurate
most authentic documents. The secretaries of the Chancery were ultimately ordered by their General to copy for us a survey of the whole territory of the Don That we were instigated to accept Cossacks.
times, to their
of the offer
desire
knowledge,
may
Procurator' employed
it
being a
maxim
" to
enlighten, is to
This
liberal intention of
was
therefore thwarted
now
to
made
if
we had been
enabled
(I)
visitor
;
(Procurator)
is
a kind of comptroller, or
;
to
examine
He
is
is
wherein he
least
stationed.
At
Tclierhask, he
is
always a Russian, at
Heber's Journal.
not a Cossack."
DON COSSACKS.
information to the geographers of Europe.
is
347
It
^^j^^^-
some
consolation that
the
its
we were
allowed to
^ -^
y
delineate
different
towards
faithful representation.
For the
rest, it
may be
rately
rivers
Don itself is not accugiven in our best maps and of the other falling into it, not even the names are
;
noticed.
Those
steppes
a vast
filled
with
numerous
rivers traversing
them
although the
by not following the course of common any of those rivers, afford no knowledge of the
route,
number
dred
of the people.
They
Popniati(m
Territory,
stanitzas, or settlements,
Of
this
number,
thousand are
in
arms.
There are
Don
Cossacks, thirty
thousand Calmucks
as persons
five
who are ready at all times for actual service. The last are not permitted to leave the country, although it be extraordinary how
persons of their vagrant inclination and habits
(2)
fronn
in
much
valuable information.
348
DON
restrained.
Cossacks, that
COSSACKS.
It
CHAR can be
' y
'
was before
said of the
but a Calmuck
hfe.
if
View of
the Don.
"We had never beheld an acre of Asiatic territory therefore the land upon the south side of
;
it
consisted of
flat
and dreary
a commanding view
it
At a
distance*
its
eastward,
we
nu-
merous
water.
spires,
as
it
Upon
we observed
lofty
upon a
eminence
course, exhibits
Near
here
Axny
is
shallow.
A similar
falls
appearance
in
may be observed
Geimany, where
for
the
Rhine:
some
<
b>
r.
I'lau of tlie
T S CHERCHASKOY
ot' tfte
Mr
j}:>
Cit^tittii
OS
i"
.5"
s^-u
fhr
rMs^
tJit
Sh'-tvuuf
Mr
i'ours,-
of
Doa.and
Rnt-r Axav
tvith the
thr iuo
Ehrrs. amauihy
hv the Doll.
iniubinttd
KV l((*l'EA S
I l)i:
.\'i.
DON COSSACKS.
flowing parallel
distinct
to
349
exhibiting
is
each other;
chap.
XIII.
and
different colour
which
peculiar to In the
We
of Axay,
devouring
as
if this
much
The
avidity
article
appeared
and
in
every house,
bound
into
these
the
or sold in
for
The
which,
We ate of
as
rich
it
heartily,
of or
it
were the
Cossacks
it
old,
or poor,
taste is
is
repast.
The
somewhat
but in
countries, said
it
is
only
fit
for food
when
grows
in the
350
CHAP.
XIII.
'
DON COSSACKS.
General,
all
The mornino: after our arrival, the ^ ,^ who was Commander-in-chief over
'
the
ion o/I
roilthai.
district,
metropolis,
came
to ^xm/.
to be
of one of the
Emperors
pox
inoculation.
in the
forenoon
church.
surprised
by
its
internal
magnificence.
The
before
filled
all
it
was suspended
wax.
them being tolerably well executed, and all of them curious, owing to their singularity, and
to
the
extraordinary figures
they
served
to
represent.
Here were no
seats,
as in
other
Russian churches.
against a wall
sacristy, standing
carpet,
We were
directed
by
The
other
whether
DON COSSACKS.
The
priest, in
351
great doors of the sacristy, which were shut. Over these doors there was a picture of the F^irgin; and before it, suspended by a string, were two wooden angels, joined back to back,
like the figures
of Janus,
bearing candles in
the
their
hands.
Whenever
doors
of
the
sacristy
were lowered before the centre of the entrance here they were whirled about in a most
ludicrous manner.
As soon
priest,
girdle,
ceremony commenced, the standing upon the throne, loosened a bound across his breast and shoulders,
as the
whereon was an embroidered representation of the cross. This he held between his forefinger
and touching
while the
The
The clear shrill voices of children placed among the choristers, reaching to the dome of the church, and seeming to die away in the air, had a most pleasing
ceremony was very solemn.
effect. It is the
same
churches
;;
352
CHAP,
XIII.
DON COSSACKS.
and perhaps there
is
it
compared than the somids produced by an JEolmn harp. The words they use are Russian; and these are everywhere the
may be more
aptly
We
did
not find them altered even among the Cossacks it was still " Ghospodi pomilui!'' but trilled
"
In notes with
many
a winding bout
At
last there
was an
interval of silence
after
this,
airs,
were
thrown open
head a
and a
priest,
silver
chalice,
crated bread,
made
others,
his
appearance.
He was preceded by
sacristy,
who
incense
over the
congrega-
of the sacristy
having retired,
Royal family
(1) It
is
Ixinirei
among
"
Calling
upon
God,
us.'"
Arrian. Epict,
Ub.xi. c, 7.
'
DON COSSACKS.
names being enumerated in a tone of voice and manner resembling that of a corporal or a Serjeant at a roll-call. Passages were also read from the Psalms; but the method of
their
"
353
^^^^^'
described.
The young
priests
who
it
officiate,
over with
possible expedition,
so as to be unintelli;
gible,
even
to the Russians
striving to give to
word
formed of
Some notion may be by hearing the crier in one of our courts of justice, when he administers
of
Fasting.
to prove, that
We
we
were taught
to
but
sorts of fish,
by
juices of
We
in
the
ncidibourhood.
It
was
in the
under-
2 A
354
DON COSSACKS.
^^^"''o
'
'
^^uf'
,
we had assembled
our
workmen,
alarm was spread, and by the observations of an that the plague might be
:
in
conse-
to
abandon
never-
Several of
the
Cossacks,
assured
them bones of men and of horses. said, (and this, if true, would be indeed remarkable,) that gun-barrels were
had found
in
Sometimes, they
discovered
in
these
tombs,
exhibiting
very
antient workmanship.
to
Cossack officer
shewed
steppes.
But, not-
withstanding
that
may
to
be urged concerning
supposed
its
powder before
use in Europe,
must appear
with matchlocks
no motive
for
deviating
Other
and instru-
DON COSSACKS.
In the eveninsf of this day
*'
355
we embarked
by
Papof.
^J\^,^XIII.
'
,
for
Tcherkask, accompanied
y^lexi
Lieutenant-Colonel
Gregorivitch
To
this officer
we were
and
of hospitality
polite
such as
enlight-
more
ened
cities
of Europe.
liberal,
Don; and
quired
among
almost
In
all
its
characteristics,
It
the
Don
a
Analogy
between
the
Don
annual
inundation,
which
W.
(l) Colonel
(Jossacks, in
Papof has
since
Doyi
Mr. Heber,
in
his
" There
is
here a very
many
German engravings
Chevalier Bayard.
sans reproche, called
The Cossacks, having never heard of the Chevalier it The Death of Darius. Ou my asking if Bourbon
was Alexandra Macedonsky, they answered, to my surprise, that he was not present at the death of Darius, and shewed themselves
well skilled in
Jiis
history,
Heber'
MS.
Journal.
the
is
not so low as
is
generally
improves daily.
German, &c.
It
was
holiday-time
of."
Ibid.
when we were
there
2 A 2
356
DON COSSACKS.
g^^^t extent of territory.
'
^^
^xui'
Over
this
we now
passed
retires
same aquatic plants are found in both rivers tall flags, reeds, and bulrushes, sometimes rising to the height of twenty feet. The manner of their entrance into the sea, by several mouths, is also the same forming small islands, as m Both one the Delta, with fens and morasses. and the other serve as boundaries to two prin;
When
the waters
Don,
the
were only on
their account.
During the
inundation,
highest,
when
the
waters
were
thirty
at
we
flies,
observed above
at the
different
kinds of
same
instant,
upon the
miles'.
It rises
St.
Johns
Below
for
is
and of
sufficient
depth
(1)
One thousand
versls.
DON COSSACKS.
the end of June the water
is
:
357
"^^^j^'
so low, that
shallows
it is
'
rises
from sixteen to
is
eighteen
feet,
very rapid.
it
The
principal
into
are,
the
Danaetz,
veditz,
the IVoronetz,
Ilavla^;
the
Clioper,
the Med-
and the
importance,
although
entitled
to
maps
of the country,
owing
to
tlie
Natural
jjj
Ami-
observed
one
of
those
deposits there
at
of
exist
fossil
'i"''""^*
elephants' bones,
of which
in
such
wonderful remains
Siberia,
the
mouths
These bones
but
a partial decomposition ^
The
antiquities of the
(2)
edit.
Lord
1788.
JVhitii.'ortlis
Account of Russia,
p. 120.
Strawberry Hill,
(3)
Tableau
ahri'g(5
de I'Empire de
la
Moscou, I79G.
(4)
p. 84.
358
CHAR.
J)qji
DON COSSACKS.
are also worthy of a
more
particular de-
now be
afforded.
A tradition
or a citadel,
city,
upon the
river, at a place
called Zimlanskaia,
two hundred miles above the town of Tcherhashj where the best Don wine is now made. Some
insignificant traces of
still
said
to be visible.
At General
house were
two
in
StelcE
of marble,
actually brought
from
kind;
thence.
The
the
less
where no
was made
to instigate them.
The
infor-
mation, such as
it is,
to antient history.
The 2TH A AI
or Pillars of
'
Tanais-.
The
were on the
(l)
The Reader
will
Monu-
mental
rise to
much
'AXs^ayJ^au
2THAA!.
Ptolomcci Ccogr.
lib. V.
7^.264.
DON COSSACKS.
European side of the river ^: of these
359
we
shall
CHAP.
XIII.
have occasion to speak hereafter. We heard, moreover, of coins oi j4lexander; but none were
to
be seen.
Perhaps,
among
the
numerous
Greeks
who
Of
is
the marble
Stelce,
however,
the
history
himself,
who
who
issued
us the intelligence.
exhibit the
the
Don
used
for navigation
from a single
timber
:
tree, consisting of
one piece of
in this
paddle.
join
laid
Sometimes, as
they
two of those canoes by transverse planks across, and so form a kind of deck, capable
conveying
considerable
of
burthens \
The
The
current
is
rapid,
it
The
to
fishes caught in
are
much
too
is
numerous
no river
be
in the
(3)
PtolemaEi Geogr.
ibid. p. 142.
mo
^^j^^' XIII
Fii,hes
DON COSSACKS.
world affording a greater variety, or
perfection.
in greater
the
Among the principal are, the beluga, common sturgeon, the sterlet, sudah, trout,
of an
enormous
size.
Some
of the
last,
lobsters,
They
and
in certain
number may be
is
had
sum.
The
beluga
the largest
In the kidneys
calculi,
of very
as large
man's
list.
Professor Pallas
gave us a
it
The lower
keep these
calculi as talismans,
certain disorders.
saw
feet thick.
the
in its shape,
One
men upon
him
to
the
Don possessed
a secret, enabling
We
saw him
fishing at a considerable
and could
distinctly
'
DON COSSACKS.
perceive that he
361
chap.
under
:
^v
this
side.
The appearance
the
river,
Extraonii-
affords
most novel
spectacle,
it
pcarancfof
Venice, yet
someto
it
what resembles
is
that city.
The entrance
it
by broad
canals, intersecting
in all parts.
piles,
On
appear
to
these the
by narrow bridges
rails,
As we
we
beheld
inhahi-
inhabitants
upon the
of
the
house-tops,
sitting
upon
the
ridges
in that
extraordinary
many
frogs,
into the water, and in an instant were seen swimming about our boat. Every thing seemed
to
not a square
in the
midst
half in the
362
CHAP,
DON COSSACKS.
the house of a Gener
'1,
'.
Ataman of Tcherkask This person was a merchant, and very rich. His house, Uke all those we saw afterwards, was extremely neat,
and elegantly furnished.
Upon
among
others,
we
graving,
common
his last
represented Rousseau, in
moments, desiring his housekeeper to open the window, that he might once more
behold the face of Nature.
requested that
while
officer
tinels,
The
General, having
we would
in
we remained
to attend us,
to provide
us with sen-
and whatsoever
else
might be deemed
necessary.
The
eleven
town
stanitzas,
of
Tcherkask
is
divided
into
and contains
allowing,
fifteen
thousand
inhabitants.
The number
of houses
amounts to
three thousand;
five
persons to each.
This, from
we
could
Here
" The internal government of TcJierhask is exercised, under the (1) Ataman, by a Master of Police, and a Chancery of four persons. The Police Master, and, on some solemn occasions, the Ataman, is distinguished by a large
staff,
with a silver
filigree
a drum-major."
Heber's
MS.
Journal.
DON COSSACKS.
are seven churches;
four built of stone, and
'^Q'A
^,^/'*
three of wood.
is
One
v -'
for
Tahtar worship,
in
the
Talitars
having a
their
Buildings.
stanitza
Tcherkask
peculiar
is
to
own
their
people.
Their religion
Mahomedan; and
built with
and
this
The
elders
:
and, as in Turkey, no
one
permitted to
Nevertheless,
enter wearing
boots or
shoes.
upon
this
;
sacred floor
for
we
found
his
commercial papers
The
first
it
as
indeed have
of stone
;
the
It is
now
and cona
bright
handsome
screen,
painted
They
this
wax
candles.
call
In
their
Regalia.
church
are
kept what
they
term to
republican, rather
than to regal,
ensigns of distinction.
These
364
CHAP,
XIII.
DON COSSACKS.
were exhibited
for
chiefly of presents
Imperial arms
pohtic
serving as
Cossacks
might forget to
Here
w^e
saw
manner, with
may
when
be referred
mies.
to
An
is
used by the
they thrust a
order
to
drink what
it
has
also
thus absorbed'.
chiefly
reigns
whom
map
of
their territory,
late
Empress
Catherine.
The standards
she presented to
(1)
See
p.
DON
regalia
C0SSACKJ5.
305
tlicii"
Great part of
^^J.V*'
was burned
in
town has been exposed and among the things then lost, were some presents from Peter the Great. There still
gifts,
very characteristic of
the rich staves
Among
and
of
silver-headed,
magnificently
Of
this
It
they
all
the rest.
was
we
that
is
to
say, of plain
same church was also suspended the singular picture of " The Virgin luitli the Bleeding
In the
Cheek,'"
usual representation.
Virgin, a hand
size,
Below the
off
figure of the
as
if it
and fastened to
They
related,
having struck a
the cheek,
wounded her in
to bleed;
but
ot
366
^i^/^f-
DON COSSACKS.
the priest
knife,
came
off,
There
is
About
workmanship
the
It is built in
Grecian taste, and consists of fourteen Corinthian columns, covered entirely with burnished
gold.
There
also paintings in a
more modern
stiff
style,
and more
by such pictures
all
Russian churches.
Almost
kask are of
I.
of justice, and
ried on.
is
car-
This building
One room
our
is
this
much resembles
House of
Commons. It contained the Emperor's portrait; and it was more like him than any we had seen.
When
sists
a general assembly
of a
President,
is
convened,
all
it
coi-
with
the
Generals,
DON COSSACKS.
Colonels,
relate not
367
Their
Councils
and
Staff-officers.
chap.
^
only to military
affairs,
but to
all
>
'
The
as-
witnesses,
their
grievances.
decided.
III.
receive
geometry,
mechanics,
Sec.
&c.
V.
stanitzas
into
divided.
for males,
VI.
and two
begging.
The Shops are very numerous; they are kept chiefly by Greeks, and contain the produce
of Turkey;
fruit,
&c.
There are
stanitza
also
its
and each
for
has
liquors,
brandy,
cook's
wine,
&c.;
likewise
trakeury
or
Every
in all
3G8
CHAP,
DON COSSACKS.
the churches, called "
.
The
benediction
,
of bread
loaves
;
,
"
VV^'
XIII.
upon
these
occasions,
Jive
ivliite
are
symbols
of those with which Christ fed the multitude. The people then pray, that, " as with five leaves
he fed
five
thousand,
he would vouchsafe a
bread
of
its
inhabitants,
and bless
it
origin,fef
It
is
uncertain
whence a notion
originated,
;
iucA-i.
that the
it
but, as
tunity
error.
now offers to prove that it is founded in The Cossacks have been acknowledged,
hundred years.
in the
And beyond
pagian
called
country,"
Casachia;
says
he',
the
summits of Caucasus''
Our countryman,
Cossacks " a spe-
Don
Storch,
v/ho
has
written
avaht
Ss
Ty,;
KA2&XIAS
\\t fin.
og'/j
ra Kavy-daix
x!ii.
tiffin.
ConstanihlVS dc Aduii-
nhtrand. Imper.
(2)
cap.
p. 133.
p. 97.
DON COSSACKS.
and learnedly on the subject, although he admits the resemblance they bear to Tahtars, in
fully
369
chap.
'
their
mode
of
life,
constitution,
and features,
Scherer,
who
inculcates
the
notion
of
their
Polish
origin,
a diiferent nature
fable \
It is
but
has
all
the air of a
mine
their
differences
in the
by a wrestling-match,
is
which ends
by the
Russian.
This event
followed by the
To have
and
to
them,
is sufficient
what they
Storch.
p. 55.
in
Tbey are often described as a branch of the Poles, who migrated modern times to the marshes of the Don. The observation of Scherer,
also, strens;thens the notion
i,i
^
\
ihe'w Polish
celle-ci rest
dc
l'
Eschtvon."
1788.
Annales de
la Petite Russie,
par Scherer,
torn. I. p. 17.
Pam,
(4) 5fAejer,
Tableau de
I.
p. 9.
VOL.
I.
2 B
2^0
^!^^JP'
DON COSSACKS.
say of themselves.
"^
XIII.
The
Cossacks of the
Don
relate, that
engaged
p
I
in their
whom
\
I
who
f they were emigrants from Poland, who had fled from the oppression of their nobles, and were I
proceeding to Persia, to join the troops of that
country against the Turks.
The
Cossacks told
march
in
;
Turks
them to the town of Tcherkask, where they would find an asylum, and whence,
to return with
in
own
forces,
they might
Assisted
by these
hands
army.
From
the circumstances of
make
a figure
among
the nations at
much
better qualified
DON COSSACKS.
than any of the Russian Academicians,) are a mixtiire
371
^^ j^/*'
^
^y
"']
'
'
Greeks,
Turks,
same
may be
seen
all
the
same
own
nation.
Concerning the
was founded by refugees from Greece to whom the people of Azof denied admission, and who, in consequence, proceeding farther up the river, came to this island, where they made a settlement giving to the place a name derived from the people upon whose frontier it was situate, and with whom they afterwards wera intermingled. The name of the town, although pronounced Tcherkasky, is written Tcherthat
it
;
KASK,
sjnall
village
of
the
or,
Tcherkas,"
as
we
write
Circassians.
avalanclie, the
immense horde
of the
Cossacks.
Before the
middle of the tenth century, they had already reached the frontier of Poland, and had comB B 2
372
cj^^PXTII.
DON COSSACKS.
menced an intercourse with the people of that country this was often attended with an augmentation of their horde by the settlement of PoUsk emigrants among them. Their first notable armament is said to have been in the year 948', when the Greek Emperor employed them as
:
mercenaries
in his
war against
the Turks.
From
name
under
mentioned by Constantine Porphyrogenetes, and The Greek their country called Chazaria'^.
Emperor,
mendatory
might be
letters,
to
the Polish
their
Sovereign,
appellation
requesting that,
Cossacks,
in
future,
As
it
to the to
origin of that
name, some
have
be
from a word
in the Polish
language implying
of that animal \
(1) Scherer,
Tableau de
&c.
(4) Storch,
(.5)
Tableau de
Lond. 1G72.
la Russie, torn.
I.
p. 65.
See
" A Discourse
Edward
Brown,
p. 1.
DON COSSACKS.
derivation, substitutes another
lous,
still
.3;.->
more
frivo-
chap.
XIII.
and maintains
it
to
we might
Casaca,
in Spanish,
answering
to
our English
The land of
that
country
called.
now denominated
properly so
to
my
we ought
ThU
facts
obser-
actually confirmed
by
already
related,
although so general
this people, that their
Dnieper
the
to
remotest confines of
different
According
their
emigrations and
(6) Scherer,
Tableau He
la Russie, torn.
I.
p. 67.
par
Pei/ssomiel, p. 125.
374
DON COSSACKS.
Volga, of Grehenskoy
,
where they have received yet other appellations, and reach even to the mountains of China, and to the Eastern Ocean.
Alps,
Siberia
;
and of
It is
principal hive,
all
whence, with
little
exception,
those
Causes of
their in
crease.
Don
freedom
they enjoy.
they
republic
and ramifications
despotic empire,
to
all
parts of an
it
immense
a wise
which considers
As they
they will
detest the
their
own
make
their
A
all
prisoners
of
willing to settle
among them.
revolts
most important
under Razin
in the begin-
"
L'hisloire de ccs
Jiistoriens niola
dernes."
torn. I.
See
p.
26 of the Notes
Tableau de
Eussie,
DON COSSACKS.
Thus, from the success attending their incursions,
^75
^J|^^'
their
made
their appearance,
In
upon the Folga. About the same time, another colony marched towards the Terek, and settled
there.
Ui,
and the
Ural, as
most powerful detachment from the original hive is established upon the shores of the
Caspian, at the
mouth
it
left
the
Don
in the
tury,
sequent emigrations
parent stock.
in the
In order to annihi-
the
memory
of their revolt,
the Russian
their
name,
name
of
the
Don
It
Siberia.
p. 68.
376
CHAP,
3^111.
DON COSSACKS.
bearan its
march towards the East in the sixteenth century. A troop of between six and
seven thousand,
under the conduct of their Ataman, Jermah, penetrated into Permia, and made the discovery of the country to which
we commonly
Their
Siberia.
adventures,
romance
but
we may
it
Jermah,
of zeal, ha-
rangues
his
;
little
army.
mountains
defeat and
before them
and the Ob
and termi-
jiltaic Chain.
were compelled
to
humble
made
by formal
in consi-
capitulation,
who,
deration
of
the
important
services
he had
DON COSSACKS.
but even recompensed his extraordinary talents
377
^",^,^-
and courage'.
the
Thus was
Siberia
added
to the 'w-v
by a
Cossack of
less
Don
illustrious
boasted victories
of
an
record them.
We
Cossacks
back
to
the period
when they
their
first
The
ac-
^o^^^ftion of
from
the
own
of
Capi^^f^'^ tal.
attributed
to
settling
some
The shores
recently
New
The
many
of their exiles;
and the custom was continued among the Romans, The as appears by the banishment of Ovid.
opinion, therefore,
not without
With regard
every
Cir-
own
reason to consider
cassian
;
for the
most
part,
deduce the
(1)
Storch, torn.
1.
p. 16.
378
DON COSSACKS.
^^'^W^ of the Cossacks
^xm
the Polish,
Bohemian,
march from Media, through the Straits of Caucasus, towards the Tanciis, and round the Its first colonies were called SarmaEuxine. iians : the earliest account of whom is given by Herodotus; who places them between Caucasus and the Tandis\ The defile of Caucasus has
been celebrated
barrier.
in all ages, offering the only
Pyl^
first
Sarmatic.e,
from
it
:
the
Sarmat^, who
being,
passed through
Bochart,
according to
madai, Sar-mat^
of
the
that
is
Children
Medes".'
who knew
(1) Hcrodot.
(2)
lib. iv.
c.
117.
2APMATA!, 2ATPOMATAI, MAinTA!, were the same people. See Bochart ; and the ohservations of the author's Paternal Ancestor, in his valuable Dissertation on ihe " Connection of the Roman, Saxon,
and
E?iglish Coins," p. 47.
It is
very grateful to
make
this tribute to
Work
the Reader
some
for the
DON COSSACKS.
nothing of the etymology,
asserts
37D
the
fact:
^JJf/"
The
Circassians
of
the
circas-
Continually
and Lake
Mceotis,
the Kuban and the Terek, they hang, as it were, upon the northern sides of Caucasus, or carry
feet,
miles
from
Tcherkask.
war with the Cossacks. They pretended to make peace with them at the end of the last Turkish war but, whenever occasion offers, they seize the persons
Tahtars of Kuban,
;
who may be
for slaves to
sell
them
scribed
by the Don
they hide
grass,
reeds,
or
of
(3)
Diod. Sic.
lib.
ii.
p. 155.
Ed.
ff^tstdin.
380
DON COSSACKS.
^^ ^^
'
'
^xui'
i
^^^
armed
in
ambush: if only two or three, they attack these by surprise but even then they will run
;
away
if
fire.
If dis-
who they
are,
and declare themselves friends. Some of the Circassians were prisoners at Axay, when we
were
there.
The
Cossacks,
and
all
the inhabi-
made
con-
were necessary
to
make any
addition to
many
curious
mode
the
same
wociong the
cassians.
The
Circassians,
more-
name
in the appellation of
a town
Commerce
<if
fhe commcrce
Tcher-
h<nk.
habitants of Tcherkask,
very various.
The
and a
little
DON COSSACKS.
they consume
'
381
cii a p, V IIT XIII.
all
their icine.
When
in
it
a certain age,
it
sells
Tcherkask at a price
is
would allow
grapes to
ripen,
with
the
it
French
mode
of
preparing this
all
is
beverage,
The
Cossacks
live to
The merchants,
rest,
in
their turn,
and have
army^
In
fact,
(1) "
is
but
it is,
I suspect, a I could
fabrication.
some
:
easily believe to
*
be so
it
was, indeed,
could brush
unwholesome
fen."
"
Journal.
differs
in
Heber's
(2) "
respects,
MS.
The government of
Don
many
encroachments.
is
which
;
is
for
more
than a single
fishery
is
To
allotted
They
and
distilleries.
is
ITie
settled
by
tlic
Ataman.
Tliis
Ataman was
and
382
ciiAP. XIII
DON COSSACKS.
generals or colonels, in the
Cossacks,
army of
the.
Don
who
In Tcherkask
and was
botli civil
place.
Paul had
laid
some
restrictions
on
He had
who had
of,
as introducing
lies
an unconstitutional aristocracy.
From
these Atamans,
an appeal
to the
Chancery
at
Tcherkask.
They used
to elect their
Ataman
there,
and
to appeal to
;
him only;
is
but he
now
allot-
The
fishery
let
out
so
and
it is
them
to
their
becoming
officers.
met with a
This
when
been formed
power of the
Formerly,
the
head of his
is
Now
he merely
the
put under
officers
named by
Crown.
The
may be
called
on
part of the
own
expense, and
making
good any
deficiencies
abroad, except on
particular emergencies.
They
serve, however, in
the cordon along the Caucasus, and in the duties of the post and police.
all
service,
except
the
home
and
assisting in the
barks over the shallows in the Do7i. they are free entirely.
He acknowledged,
that as they would allow no examination into their numbers, hespoke only from conjecture, and from the different al-
of male
Cossack
DON COSSACKS.
they live an amicable and pleasant
life.
383
Some-
chap.
XIII
Once they had a theatre, but it was prohibited. In some of their apartments we observed mahogany bookcases, with glass doors
taining
;
each con-
a small library.
They
are in every
with reference to
houses.
their
persons or
to
their
in its
There
is
The dress
of
is
considered as comfortable
and
tlieir
deemed
A Consack'
of Cossack guards,
of 1000 each.
not learn.
who are all Dnnsky, amounts to three regiments, The number employed in Persia and Caucasus I could
of
the
560
men
Ataman
of Tcherkask; but
At AusteilUz,
The
them
;
as objects
of considerable ap-
whose
more unwieldy.
These
had suffered
some time the only cavalry with the RusEmperor iom^A Kotuznf, had lost almost
During the quarrel of Paul with Engit was believed at TcUerkask,
at all
march
to
India,
and
his officers.
/'/a^rt/'*j
He had
often,
by
authority,
bound men hand and foot, and thrown them into the Z>o?. was unexpectedly seized and carried oflf by the orders of the Empress {Catherine) , and succeeded, as General of the Armies of the
He
Hcber's
MS,
Journal.
384
the
DON COSSACKS.
women
is
singular:
it
differs
its
from
all
the
is
magnificence
The
or
hair of married
is
women
is
concealed under
is
adorned
The dress
silver,
of a Cossack girl
elegant
proof of Cossack
instance of
the
the
we
lodged.
This
woman walked
shoes or stockings
for
some
we had
collected,
roubles.
filled
Her cupboard
with plate and
of
men
in
Tcherkask
is
and
tattered state
fitted
respect.
We
a dirty
suit of clothes.
DON COSSACKS.
cleanly appearance.
385
chap.
to the poor,
Ti^nncrlof
^^^ ^^^v^^-
In
a gentleman
for
he
well-informed,
free
from
prejudice,
open,
sincere,
and honourable.
of a Russian,
what a contrast!'
bestowed upon the one, or the censure he has perhaps too indiscriminately lavished upon the
other, as having
The
it
Russian
women
are
and
is
very remarkable.
from
(l)
to the
of the
people struck
dignity.
u?,^
their superiority
Russians, in honesty
and
A Lieutenant
at Petej'shurg,
us,
bowed himself
to the
ground, and
head on
the
floor.
who was
imprisoned, and also bes^i^ed, made the request in a manly and dignified manner, and thanked us as if we had been his comrades.
taller
in great
portunities of observing.
The
Procurator, the
the Apo-
seemed
to
have formed a
coterie
of
own, and to
dislike,
and
to
The
there; that
We
."
when we
'
first
Moscoffshy Canaille
Canaille
MS,
Heber's
YOL.
r.
2C
386
S^^f^^-
DON COSSACKS.
that
little
It
them to the men of their country an instance or two of this kind may have been
to liken
:
have
be not rather a
(l)
lish
this extract
from
my Journal,
our Eng-
papers are
common
soldiers,
is
An
ac-
count of them
name
is
affixed.
Posterity
may
there
of Vasa,
its
during
plunder,
possession
and accrying
dolra
(Bravo
bravo
!)
as
they were
and
"It
" to
inasmuch
his-
toric truth,
civilized nations."
In the
and
to
prolong the
them.
'
DON
COSSACKS.
387
^J^f/''
'
and Russians more striking. The truth of it, owing to its notoriety, will not be disputed by
either party.
knives, daggers, or
any
similar
practice
is
people, that
wager.
Teplof and
two of the
late Remarkable
Empress Catherines privy-counsellors, chanced to be in her presence, when it was told her
that a Cossack priest, then a
Wager.
monk
in the
Convent
of
St.
young woman, whom he had made pregnant, and with whom he had quarrelled upon this Teplof offered to wager with Gelagin that the monk was not a Cossack. The bet was made, and won by Teplof; the
cutting the throat of a
:
monk proving to be a Russian. Being questioned how he could possibly divine the probable
success of his wager
Cossack
;
would
strike a
;
woman:
if
he did, he
would use
It
his cane
tenant-colonel
JO
whole of Tcherkask.
We
walked a distance
338
CHAP,
XIII.
DON
bridge.
CO;-SACKS.
all in
...
off,
From
mode of approaching
bitants
:
where the deal, of which they are constructed, was as white as water and the sun's rays could make it, sat the old and respectable Cossacks; almost all of
them.
whom,
their
as
we
The water
;
flows beneath
many
of the buildings
and
all
of
them are upon piles, in the midst of the flood'. The prodigious quantity of timber consumed in
on some marshy
pillars,
islantls in
the river.
The
saw
it,
houses are
all
raised on
wooden
The
When we
every part was flooded, except the principal street, the great church,
The
antic
of trees,
and Calmuck
The sudah
still
continued to
all
The
Cossacks are
much
There
is
is
full of
very costly
ornaments.
never saw so
many
Madonna in
Toland."
TCHERKASK.
the town, for houses, causeways, and bridges,
is
389
riiAP. XII r.
Don being
inade-
away.
The
this
Axay ;
would increase its commerce, and thereby add to its importance the rest, who,
:
propose to surround
to
and
form channels,
after a plan
which would
it
make
is
its
at present;
remaining constant, as
times varying
full
and some-
fifteen
prevents the
They
neglect, however,
it
no opportunity
as
to
much
and insulating the houses where they were too closely situate. If any attempt should be
made
They upon
to
little difficulty
would
miglit
be floated
the place of
their destination".
The
capital has
(2)
tion
river.
390
CHAP.
xiir.
' ,
DON COSSACKS.
They speak
of moving a house in this part of
the world as a very trifling undertaking.
When
Finding him
''
wish,'*
me
at
Lugan"
house,
;
*'
If
you
admire
as
my
at
you see it and I engage to place it for you at Lugan in the course of the week." A bargain was concluded between them the house was
;
moved
and Sir
Charles,
it
of
of Tcherkask complain
much
to-
Not a
single
all
house has a
court-yard
gether, as
huddled
if
make
their escape.
They
are
much
all
abound
in
Don \
(1)
"A
and
which
is
Seep. 22.
Land, 1672.
TCHERKASK.
391
chap.
'
'
wound
but are
be the best
not a single
remedy
There
is
We
principal church;
was traversed by
that the usual pre-
by
water.
where most of the shops are situate is floored with planks; and must necessarily be very unwholesome, as all the
street
dirt, falling
The
through, remains
^
when
the waters
'the of their
retire.
They are often troubled with although, when we inquired for a list
diseases, they said they seldom
fevers
diseases of People.
had any.
the
The
greatest ravage
is
made by
small-pox.
introduced.
The complaint they seem to dread more than any other is called the disorder of
HAIRS.
is
Hair
said to be generated in
wounds
of the bodies
of those
(2)
whom
it afflicts.
We
expressed our
Brown
This
is
(p. 24.
Lond. 1672).
Gmelin says
it is
known
in Russia
and the
Ukraine, under the name Volosez; and he attended a case of abscess in Paulovsk which afforded him proof of the existence of such a disorder.
392
CHAP.
XIII.
<
DON COSSACKS.
Incredulity ^
to
'
in the this
many
:
witnesses.
To cure
malady,
tliey
what
hairs.
like plantain
We
pended, as
we
common
disorder
among
the Cossachs.
As
in
mud
yielding
water
full
of frogs,
them
is
frorp pestilence,
it
attention to cleanliness.
The water
Don
unwholesome, and
;
it
particularly disagrees
with strangers
Many
;
of
same quality
espe-
Neva
at Petersburg.
Greek imposter.
Greek brouafht to o
Constantine,
Emperor
all
procured in Turkey.
He
kept them, he
kinds;
and,
power, swore, by
any one
'
TCHERKASK.
them were placed in a sieve, not a drop of water would pass through it. As we laughed
of
at his folly, he
?.9?>
^^/l?'
'
to
make
the
experiment; but
to merit so
too ridiculous
He seemed
to
He shewed
to us
this
he said he had
and, having
worn
life
it
upon
his breast,
his
in
battle, as
relic
had
fallen
Havinar
*-"
now
this
satisfied
our curiosity
*'
in
the
p^partiire
from
Tchcr-
survey of
leave of
extraordinary place,
we
took
its
inhabitants,
accompanied by the
attended us,
officer
who had
so politely
we had
paid
We
left
Tcherkask on
Monday
down
About
Convent,
an island called
of the
Nunnery hie,
times, derived
or
The
Island
whence, as they
relate,
women
Grand
Signior.
(I)
^tven
verats.
CHAP. XIV.
VOYAGE DOWN THE DON, TO AZOF AND TAGANROG.
Visit
to
the
General-in-chief of the
Cossack
Army
CHAP.
XIV.
To
Fortress
the
South of Russia De Rubruquis TahtarsArDemetry menian Colony of Nakhtshivan of and Don Tumuli Rastof Division of
St.
General
View of
Fortress
Village of Azof
City
of
tion
Condition
the Garrison
entertained of
MiEOTis Remarkable
Taganrog.
the
Cossacks
of Azof
Opinion
HE morning
after
we
'
DON COSSACKS.
army,
stating, that
395
him
out,
at his country-seat
We
set
'
chap.
Pcipof, Generalti^Colsack
^'''"-''
and by a Greek
Cossack service,
We
occasionally through
we
arrived
at his house,
standing
upon the European side of the river, opposite to the town of Tclierkask, and distant from it about five miles. Here we found some elegant and accomplished women amusing themselves
with a piano-forte
;
and afterwards we
all
sat
down
to
mead
thirty
Madeira wine.
in Poland.
A number
many of them foreign but the best wine of As we the Don seemed superior to any other. sat banquetting in this sumptuous manner, we called to mind the erroneous notions we had once
;
39G
DON COSSACKS.
entertained of the inhabitants of this country
notions
still
joropagated
by the
Russians
conin
cerning the
Cossack people.
Perhaps few
map
of this
in their
most civilized nations. Their conversation had that polished and agreeable cast which characterizes well-educated military
men.
Some
and
peculiarities,
still
common
in
to our an-
cestors,
retained
the ceremonial
feasts of antient
corporate bodies,
might be
observed.
Among
may be adduced
as remarkable
still
more prevalent, is that of bowing to and congratulating any person who happens to sneeze. The Cossacks of the Don always do this. When
we
if
we
preferred returning
variety,
by water,
we might
it,
ducted to
we
found
it
manned by
and decorated
covered with
in a
fine
was
silk.
and Persian
in
our favour,
we embarked,
'
:',C)'/
to our quarters
chap.
Axay.
^v-
Embarkation for
tJie
The next morning we bade farewell to the Don Cossacks; and, having placed our carriage on board a barge, sailed delightfully down the
back at the fine view of the o town o^j4xay and Tcherkask), to Nakhtshivan, an
river (often looking
seao/jzoj:
this
flou-
Its
(l)
"A
is
larg^c
Armenian
town, oalicd
We
They
contains
1500 families.
are very
We
had a
letter to
Colonel, and whose son was one of Mr. Andre's pupils (of Ilostof), and our interpreter. His name was Abraamof. I found that Armenians usually expressed their names in this manner, from the Christian names
of their parents, yet with the termination in nf, which
gentility.
is
mark
of
This
and possessed
sold Orlof
He knew
while
it
Lazarof,
who
the great diamond; and described in strong terms the misery and
anxiety the
Armenian had
all
felt
remained
in
his possession.
billiard-talile,
European luxuries
however
much
;
pride.
He
said, himself
distur-
bances there
countrymen at Astrachan.
The
town
is
in leather.
The women
are almost
all
398
c^A.^^
'y-
were derived from the Crimea. They had about four hundred shops these were all
:
manner observed in Moscoiv. The towns near the mouths of the Don present the traveller with a novel and varied picture of society. He encounters half-a-dozen different nations and languages in the same number of minutes and
;
each nation
As we
ap-
we
beheld
Their
veils
The men
pleasant
greatly
;
handsome
their coutenance.
The Russians declare they have all a odour, like that we attribute to the Jews. They
and have a proverb,
;
*
Two Jews
sect
a-
them two
it is
Devil.'
The Armenians,
;
and
many
Of these
Knas
and
their
making
processions openly.
in Petersburg,
and many
well
in
known.
Mr. Anderson
to Bassora,
me
if
he
asked
Abraamof
if
common
and
European with them, as their servant, or in any other disguise. He answered both these questions in the affirmative. He himself had been in Georgia, and many parts of Turkey, but never farther. We observed several Mahometans, at least persons in green turbans, which
no Armenian would wear." As the green turban
is
Hcler's
MS.
Journal.
mark
399
mile.
The
in their
race,
and barter-
ing merchandize
in all directions
on horseback
the Russians, as
their
police-officers,
Italians
were scratching
heads
the
appeared as Venetian
;
and Neapolitan
airing in
sailors
them
all.
towards
its
in great
numthe
and
this race of
men
appears in journeying
way towards
by
and
in the Crimea,
General
^
south of
all
the North
of the Crimea,
one
it
flat
uncultivated desolate
waste, forming, as
400
^^^"^^^^^
I>ON,
^xVv^'
name
of Steppes.
The
very earliest
adventurers
from the
civilized
now
who
was employed
says he,
*'
We
journeyed,"'
other
objects in view than earth and sky, and occasionally the sea
upon our
mode
of
burial
which characterized
their ancestors/'
What
is
clearly
ascertained
by the Voyage of
the Ambassador
Historiale
of
Vincentius
'*
We
journeyed
through
the
(I)
tcrram,
aliquaiulo
dicitur
Mare Tanais,
et
ctiiim sepultura
Comanorum,
eorum
sepeliri simul."
Itinera-
anno 1253.
See HaMuyt,
vol. I. p. 80.
" Ibamus autem per terram Comanorum, quae tota est plana, magna. Primum appellatur Neper (Bori-stliciies) ; secundum ai>pellatur Uon (Tanais) tertium dicitur Volga
;
(llliaj
lb. p. 47.
401
this is all
first
is
is
flat,
and has
"^
^^'j^^'
The
P'^oJga
called Neper
y '
called /)o7i(Tanais);
;
named
(Rha)
the fourth
it
is
appears
ward
thirteenth century;
and considerable
light is.
thrown upon a very obscure part of antient geooraphv bv the documents thus afforded.
Ruhritquis
Itinerary,
JV. de
^'^
Rubru-
himself,
in
westward as
from
them.
now
called.
of these vast
solitudes,
where there
is
neither
wood, nor
(2)
" Tendebamus
rectfe
in
nem ad aquilonem
in
qua nulla
est si/lva,
Herba
est optima.
Teutonicia
Ab
durat
a Dauubio usque
vol. I, p.
Tanaim
Et
quiC tota
inhabitabatur a Comanis,"
Hakhiyt,
80.
VOL.
I.
2d
402
CHAP.
XIV.
V.
smaH
Tahtam.
in
consequence of
this prac-
Some
of those
who passed us
dress of the
shepherds
of
:
the
earth.
over their
Upon
their heads,
and
upon their feet they wore those sandals of lindenbark of which a representation has been given as a Vignette to the Tenth Chapter of this Volume. A similar costume is sometimes represented upon the Grecian terra-cottas, and it is also exhibited by the sculpture of Anlient
Greece \
Armetiian
of Nakiiiill IV a II.
NahhtshivaYi offcrs an
'
which
;
is
characteristic
(1)
there
who
is
delineated
403
Armenian merchants.
a lively race of
They are not naturally ^^(^' men. The Armenians are almost y *^
^
all
the
boorishness of Dutchmen
insomuch, that
this is
common
Constantinople;
"A
SY>ortive
Armenian
is
as
awk-
ward
as a dancing bear."
Yet, instigated
by
all
men
traverse
most distant
Their com-
we
were enabled to judge of them, appeared to be Turkish, and of a nature to find a ready sale in
Axay and
in Tcherkask.
They supply
;
all
the
neighbouring provinces
the
and these
sights in
afford
most extraordinary
There
is
by persons
scarcely a
its
parti-
The
Hamaxohii of Herodotus then make their appearance, as in the days of the historian
;
travelling
by
night,
and
tilts for
their cars
by day^ Such
2 D 2
404
CH^p.
V"
DOiN,
in all the
We
stationed.
cloister,
very
lofty
covered
street, or
made
the dealers
sitting at their
work, as
in Turkey,
with their
The shops sale was going were all on. Their owners, in many instances, were really
well stored, and a rapid
slippers, san-
leather.
Among other
pipe-
tradesmen,
we observed
tobacconists,
Their bakers
make bread
is
publickly baked
open
to
the
inspection
of
every
one.
The crowd passing before their shops resembled a masquerade, where the costly
embroidered vestments of rich Armenian mer-
40;
were
contrasted
with
the
coarse
chap.
We
most
inhabitants.
On
tai-
we
like
the
were squatted a number of merchants, reclining upon cushions, with long pipes in
their hands, smoking,
and drinking
coffee.
As
we
we were
wood
;
presented, ac-
made wood
of the
of the cherry-
and a
bit of
being put
into the
(l)
is
the richest
in Russia.
The
is
first,
or inner rol)e,
of black
and
pearls.
The
The turban
two thick
white, hangs over the left shoulder, and conceals the face, except
The only
hair disclosed
is
often false;
locks, one on each side, being brought in front before the ears.
406
CHAP,
v
,y,-^
called, in England,
Fhwer
de luce.
was placed,
in the lid of
had received refreshments in the house. Turks, who were present, seemed really
breathing
who Some
to
be
fumes
of tobacco.
large quantities
of
it
mouth, and
According to
Pallas"-,
At
and merchants, together with the major part of the Christian inhabitants, upon whom the whole of the productive industry and commerce of
the Peninsula depended,
left
(1)
The
Chinese,
not however
common
for
Ttaks to
I.
p. 476.
407
autumnal season.
be
but
^-
^^W' ^' ^
prepared
convey
into
their
own
pockets
money
When
the Arme-
nian
colony arrived,
they
found a parcel of
have
and most wretched manner. These since been converted into neat and
:
comfortable dwellings
many
of
them are of
:
in
tiles,
as well as of
earthenware
skilful.
very
the
ing to the
same
neighbourhood, and
state.
of
them
in a flourishing
The Armenians
;
are
much
respected in
sobriety,
the
country
their
industry,
their
and
pire.
their general
emin-
however,
and
all
the
Armenian settlements
amount
to eight thousand'.
it
at 7000.
Ibid. p. 480.
408
CHAP.
V
VOYAGE
DOWN THE
DON,
we
down
proSt.
-V-
st.Demetry Rastnf.
Rastof,
j|.
the
^^^g ^
of great importance
when the Turkish frontier was nearer. The Don is here much broader and deeper in con:
sequence of
unfit to
this,
JVoronetz,
and
their cargoes,
shipped
(1)
to Rastof
by
land.
His observations concerning the latter place are therefore peto supply the deficiency of
culiarly api>ro|iriate,
our own.
" Here it ii that the barks from Voronetz are broken up, and the goods embarked from Taj^anrog. We saw about sixty lighters lying
in the river,
Some
all
of these,
told us
There
is
The
distilleries are
numerous, and,
if
we unof the
The banks
Don
the sun.
The
and Su(iak.
all
the refuse
fish,
up
in
be
for their
town;
it is
extensive, but
ill
situated.
In
it is
He had
about twenty pupils, who were taught French, German, writing, and
geography.
They were
all
very
little
boys.
We
down
had a
letter to the
man
in a sheep-skin,
sitting
Heber's
MS,
Journal.
409
of
al-
cjMp.
XIV.
who
is
called
Commandant,
troops.
Rastof
found
is
garrisoned
by Russian
the
We
The upon
it
in a
Cossacks of the
Don claim
is
territory
which the
fort
built,
We
them seemed
an
empire,
Nakhtskivan.
as
that
settled
of
any particular province are not likely to conOther travellers may postinue long the same.
sibly
arrive,
and
find the
Cossacks
moved, and planted upon the sides of Caucasus : and those of the Black Sea, the
Tchernomorski, so lately carried from the Dnieper
to the
may
then be found
410
CHAP.
V
delightful
favourable weather,
we advanced towards
sailing,
left',
and as we continued
with Europe on
reflections
were excited which contrasted the refinement, the science, the commerce, the power, and the
influence of the one, with the sloth, the superstition,
One
fact,
at least,
may be
rope
;
Every
race,
which
nevertheless humane,
should
more ferocious
to
gipsy, a vagrant
It is
common
hear nations,
which are
yet
it
situate
ought
to
be
is alto-
gether as unenlightened,
terras
411
As chap.
XIV,
mountaineer
or a
river;
but
they
consist
chiefly
of
wretched
flags
hovels,
in
constructed
the
of reeds of the
and
growing
shallows
in
Don
description
wigwams and
the
we
saw,
the
Here the Don is divided by the channel bearing name of The Dead Danaetz ; and the high lands, upon which those towns are stationed, continue to form the northern bank of that branch of the river. We sailed along the main
current,
which
flows,
flat
after
this
separation,
through a very
The
xunmii.
from Ruhniquis'.
We
412
CHAP,
V*
to delineate a
remarkable groiipe
-y
much
;
larger
these
They
remark-
called the
Dead DanaetZy' these tombs might be conmonuments alluded to by him', under the name of the Altars of AlexThe (iu^^o), or Altars of the Greeks, ander. were called Altaria by the Romans, ah altiludine,
sidered as the actual
from
In low
countries,
hills,
artificial
But
altars
and,
consistently with
his
this
practice,
rites,
Alexander paid
vows,
and performed
Achilles
he invaded Asia, and landed upon the Plain of Troy; anointing with perfumes the ^TrjXui
placed upon them, according to the custom of
the age.
(1) 'T^ra
"h^ou
Ss
'Eni2TPO<l>HN rov
BriMOI.
Ptolem. Geogr.
lib. iii. c. 5.
(2)
" Altaria ab
significatione.
qubd Antiqui
Sext.
diis superis in
aedificiis
P''erh.
k terr^ exaltatis
sacra
faciebant."
Pomp'
p. 70.
Fest. de
4 13
to the position of
chap,
of
them they
In the
will
mean
leave
we have
its
country, and of
we must
Among
the neighbourhood
in circulation
concern-
among them.
;
At
but
we
such stories
The
Fortress
andVillage oiAzoj:
false ideas
we had
importance.
Its
imaginary can be
figure
it
moment we
in
arrived
for nothing
more wretched
has made
or insignificant.
The
the
although
meanest hamlet
it
of
to
title
414
notice.
by
at
theif
bayonets,
time.
it
any
The
Russian invalids.
The works,
if
such they
may
be
called,
village itself
its
lower
the
the fortress.
From
we had
Don
the
The
but no use
is
now made
of
of them,
and
indeed the
for
designed.
tification is
a part of a wall,
now a mere
ruin.
The
inhabitants
shewed
to us
an old rampart
raised
by Peter the Great, upon the opposite it was used by him when
City of
It
has
that
the
upon
:
the site
of Azof, or in
its
we were
415
chap.
v
^, _^
the
We
also
made such
dis-
infal-
Of these,
to its
even
con-
their topogra-
It is natural to
to its banks,
and not
at
But the site of ^zof is the only spot near the river where it has been possible to The rest is all a swamp, even the reeds build. To the east, of which are annually inundated.
water.
the south, and the south-east, the interior of the
all
elevated
fortress
deep fens and water. If, then, upon the more soil, which affords a foundation to the
and
to
the
such a city as
Tana'is
416
XIV.
y-
to
light
some
relic
of
antiquity
or sepul-
Some
of the senior
offi-
who were
mark of the existence of any former About fifteen years ago, some coins were
dis-
covered upon the shore of the 8ea of Azof, further westward but the characters upon these
;
coins
were described
to us as Indian, or Chinese
If
thcrc evcr did exist such a city as Tandis, we ri c aA might cxpcct to mid the traces oi it at the
i
i.
the very
Don which was before mentioned, as bearing name the Greeks gave to the city, in
no opportunity of exploring.
traveller
will
we had
Perhaps
some future
we
in
our
Map
of the
417
cuAr.
XIV.
Sinovka;
but he will
this
in
branch of the
lished.
The
inhabitants of
Azof amount
in the
to a small
condition
rilon^o^""^*
more than
fifty
houses
whole settlement.
'^^^^
The
officers
with reason,
state of hfe.
solitary
all
and secluded
Exiled from
intercourse with
by
comfort to
render
human
existence support-
may be
the
old
easily
imagined.
"
Englishmen^''
said
Com-
come our
would come
arrival,
to
j4zof,
could
he
avoided."
No
other
that of drinking,
at the
Some symptoms,
same
Half
all
which period
2 E
418
CHAP,
XIV.
'
VOYAGE
the
'
DOWN THE
-^
.
DON,
no faces
;
inhabitants of
conse-
were regarded
of strangers
was considered
importance.
as an event of
We
The
fices,
by Russians in their reception of foreigners, were for once laid aside but in their place were substituted boisterous greetings, and the most troublesome Our appearance at this time importunities.
practised
:
commonly
was
excite
cu-
riosity.
We
had not
whose ravages
its
were
for
visibly displayed in
is
all
parts of
lining
there
these animals
will not
ter,
endeavour to devour.
Our
interpre-
of Cossacks,
of Tahtars,
and of the
people of his
blended.
able,
own
country,
were singularly
(1)
419
chap.
'
We
with
..^-i
some
minerals, a few
insects,
seemed
else
to
and the
prise
shrill
upon seeing them, sounded their loud and whistle whenever they approached. A
officer,
General Pekin,
two Englishmen.
lie
had been
at jizof.
This venerable
himself so
much
upon exhibiting
The contrast, before made% between a Cossack and a Russian appeared very striking in this voyage down the river from Axay to Azof. In
(2)
See
t2
p. 385.
E 2
420
CHAP,
^
of a
single
day,
we had
breakto
"V-
were compelled
compelled,
especially
if
these in-
are
Russian army;
and generally
visited
Russia,
made by petty officers of the who have always the power, had the inclination, when we
to
The distance between the two places does not exceed forty-five versts. We had left the Cossacks with sorrow, and full
English traveller.
of gratitude for the politeness and the liberal
hospitality
we had
experienced
may
Opinion
entertained of the Cos-
be conceived, was doubly revolting to us. Let the Reader then imagine what our feelings were,
when, as we landed
at Azof,
an impertinent
young Russian officer, belonging to the garrison, demanded the motive which could have induced us to venture among a people so ferocious as
the Cossacks.
we ventured
:
him;
many
;
wild
true,
but
God
it."
alone
their
money, or
how
they obtain
we never
see any of
We
'
421
chap.
XIV.
'
"
You
it.
shall hear
how
it
;
they obtain
*'
,-
They
by commerce: they
fathers, providing for
and educating
all this,
their
children
you never
visit
them."
We
difficulty,
"^
in ob- Departure
fromJzof.
and
it
was
to
as
it
was necessary
and
to
river,
it
We
took leave of
whom were by
;''
this
we determined
It
boat.
was
still
dark,
pestuous.
As
we passed
the
sentinels, to
go towards the
422
CHAP,
in
the
boat, as
if in
We
succeeded,
however,
in getting
with the
hohacs,
who were
between the blinds of the windows. We never experienced such a tempest. During all the
rest of the night, the water
seemed
to
descend
roof of the
crevice.
carriage,
As
the
to
fall
Our
encouafterthat,
ceeded
in
We
raged them by
offers;
and soon
to
find,
satisfaction
although our boat's motion was hardly progressive against the united force of
wind and
tide,
we were
struggle,
nearly ex-
we
branch of the
which we were to steer with the tide towards the sea. It is called the Kalancha.
river along
assistants
and.
423
chap.
into the
Palus M^eotis.
The mouths
of the
Don
In other respects,
islets, its perio-
this river,
by
its
shallows and
and
its
rolling eddies,
vegetable and
to
the
The
inhabitants of
its
A remarkable
lent east
pheenomenon occurs
:
winds
...
versts':
it
Ph-
nomcnon.
coast, a distance of
twenty
this
but when
the
sometimes does
lives
are lost'.
(\)
('2)
Rather
less
of the
had
availed himself of the fact, in the first edition, to explain the passage
The
allusion excited a
Almighty
fiursuers,
''
in behalf
the
wind and
supernatural power.
To
would be
to as little
424
are
We
The
east
wind often
sets in
They have
from the
;
west
and
blowing
been attributed
casus,
to the
The
sea
performing quarantine
off at
a distance of
religion
of
Exodus
that
SEA TO GO BACK BY A STRONG EAST-WIND, AND MADE THE SEA DRY LAND, AND THE WATERS WERE DIVIDED: AND THE CHILDREN OF ISRAEL WENT
INTO
(l;
THE MIDST OF THE SEA UPON THE DRY GROUND." " The merclumdize brought from Voronetz comes down
to
RastofF in barks which will not bear the sea, but are broken up there.
in the road. As the wiud changes to the and the water grows shallower, they get farther and farther out to sea, and are often obliged to sail without having completed their
cargo.
after
Midsummer.
;
The Governor
said, it
is
seldom
failed.
Storms are
not
uncommon
Heber's
MS.
Journal.
in
is
may
have
down
for himself,
adhered.
425
eierht
>
chap.
XIV.
...y
The elevated
built
situation on
visible to
rendered
it
An-ivai at
''^''"'"'''
we
ever,
began
tlie
to fail
and
it
reached
shore.
came down upon our arrival and being afterwards provided with a tolerable set of apartments,
days,
we resolved to remain here for a few that we might prepare our journey through
Kuban Tahtary.
(2)
Ten
miles.
A DRAUGHT
of
the
iminication to he
EUXINE
and the
CASPIAN SEAS.
CHAP. XV.
Commerce,
Canal
of
Consecrated Ceremony of the Cahnucks Difference letween Ensigns of the Calmuck Lata
Marriage
their
rious
across
Sea of
Azof
Chumlurskaia
Margariof a very
tovskaia.
^xv^'
^
Taganrog
lofty
is
situate
upon the
cliff
promontory,
commanding an extensive
2'o:?(inj'o
TAGANROG.
prospect of the Sea of Azof, and
all
427
the Euro^^^J^}''
pean
coast, to the
mouths
of the Don.
Azof
in-
'
of the citadel.
water,
as in the
when when
but
it is
more
salutary.
was not one of the wisest plans of Peter the Great. The water
to insuperable disadvantages,
here
is
expense beyond
of ten
all
calculation.
lie off
The
the
ships
now performing
miles
to
quarantine
;
at
distance
and
all
vessels,
made with
was
entirely rased.
may
be referred to
colony at
At present, all the best houses are in its suburbs. The citadel contains a miserable village, full of ruins exhibiting, at the same
;
now
aban-
doned.
The
428
CHAP,
^
TAGANROG.
the
^
Emperor
it
will visit
.,-
and that
will then
become a town
There
not any
commerce,
>-
were
it
^atcr.
and
inter-
with the
of Astrachan;
But
that
it is
commerce can be
is
ice to Azof.
is
hundred roubles.
As soon
ships
make
their
The
(l)
*'
From November
a small vessel
vice versa.
is
to
March the
As soon
seldom
passed,
safe earlier
than April,
supposed to have
mea), and
From
a south-west wind prevails very steadily, which greatly increases the depth of waterj and favours the arrival of
April to
Midsummer
vessels.
Aljout
Midsummer
the water
is
two hundred tons are campelled to lie in the open sea, fifteen versts (ten miles) from the shore. In autumn, the Sea of Azof is often no more than fourteen feet at its greatest depth. From Taganrog to Azof is a
lie
may
then
shoal,
TAGANROG.
vessels undergo a quarantine
:
499
during- all
which
;
chap.
and
fairs
in
the year
the
upon the
principal
fair,
the third
May ; the second, and the upon the tenth of ylugust; and upon the eighteenth of November.
first
of
The quantity
is
truly astonishing
in
a dried
and in
some
The number
of vessels
is
seven hundred.
Of
or
two hunvarious
dred, are small craft, from Trebizond and Sinope, which bring nardek,
a marmalade
fruits
of grapes, and
bechtniss, a
sirup
made from
by boiling them with honey. Raisins of the sun are also brought
All these are used in the distilleries.
in great quantities.
Since the
The spirit thus produced is sold all over The Greeks of the Archipelago bring
which
is
sort,
but, as our
said,
(a
Mauvais Russe,
Mauvais
Pavilion.'
They
The European
Austrian, and Dalmatian J and in 1805, a few French, but under English
col^Ols,
They
Hcber's
MS. Joumul.
430
CHAP,
^-v'
state,
'
TAGANROG.
over
all
Fruit is
such as
figs, raisins,
and
Greek wine from the Archipelago, silk, shawls, tobacco, and precious stones. Copper comes to them from
also
it
is
sent to Moscoiv.
Among
the
principal ex-
wool,
hemp,
and
above a million
very
bad.
pouds'^
the place.
Their canvas
is
is
The
copper of Siberia
town
enjoys,
in being
the
depository of
re-
Siberian productions.
and iron
these,
with the
caviare of Astrachan,
(1)
in
"In
is
carried on.
the
ice, at
means
inclosed.
Christmas
is
is
ruinous."
MS. Journal.
;
A poud equals thirty-six pounds of English weight writers, among others the translator of Pallas's Travels
South of Russia, &c. state
it
but some
throngh tho
as equal to forty.
431
'"vy^"
^
'
TAGANROG.
miles % where
canal
Peter the Great projected the which it was Paul's intention to have com-
pleted.
canaiof
c-Mk>nhl--'
^caTj^iol^
^'^'^
by means
by Peter
of this canal,
was
first
published by
^^"'^^
Sea.
part of Perry
Government towards
ing,
because
it
Peter the Great shuffling with his engineer, to evade the payment of a few roubles, is a faithful
archetype of
scruple
;
all
many
their
of
whom would
valet
defraud
own
de
chambre
him
thirty of the
Royal Academy's
(3)
The canal
according to Perry,
versls,
;
because
it
would
into the Don, and the Camishinha, \th\c\i falls into the f^olga but the section for the canal would not much exceed two miles.
Upon
"
sluices
uere
to be placed, to
miles (equal to
miles English) to be cut through the dry land, where the said rivers
work
like this
in agita-
England.
Chapter; &\%o Perry's State of Russia,
Lond. 1716.
432
CHAP,
almanacs,
TAGANROG.
by way of payment*. The Russian
people cannot be duly appreciated, excepting
by those who have not only actually resided among them, but who have seen them when they are removed from intercourse with civilized nations, and when they appear divested
of that external varnish which
is
so forcibly
alluded to
former
page of
to
this
volume ^
credit,
meet with
when he gave
hardship he
humble
representation of
the
sustained,
inasmuch as
it
an individual;
An
employment
v/ith
(1)
It
whom
this
happened.
Pa^e386.
"
In the
his
mean
lain,')
upon
me
to
pay me my
arrears,
me;
I
so that
waited upon
me, that
with the
affairs of
place,
and
what
in
the
mean
Perry's State of
Russia, p. 19.
CALMUCKS.
of Russia.
433
^"^^
^-
plished, neither
hkely to be
;
so,
without
the
neighbourhood of Taganrog.
Their camps were numerous at the time of our visit both Calmuck men and women were seen galloping their
:
horses
or
through
in
the the
streets
of
the
town,
Calmuck
lounging
ride
public
places.
women
cated,
better
male
and
likely
to
fall
off
:
women
the Jiamage
of the r^;-
skill.
The ceremony
of marriage
among
C/772Zfc^v is
performed on horseback.
girl is
first
Her
lover pursues
his wife,
if
upon the spot after this But it sometimes happens that the to his tent. woman does not wish to marry the person by
whom
suffer
she
is
pursued
him
to overtake her.
We
were assured
2 p
434
pursuer.
CALMUCKS.
If she dislike him,
the language of
nothing,'' until
EngUsh sportsmen,
neck or
admirer.
We
the town.
The earth
all
and
the limbs of
rous.
we
in considerable distress,
owing
havoc the
:
some of
Their High
was
tent
To each
characters,
Caimuck
La
By means
of
an
interpreter,
this
occasion, w^e
were
always erected
preventions of
theft,
other's property.
Many
CALMUCKS.
435
we examined were torn; and others were so much effaced by use, that we could only discern
some of the written characters yet all of them were sufficiently entire to convince us that they were manuscripts, beautifully written upon coloured linen. It was therefore highly desir;
^xv^
ments
but the
acquisition
was made with considerable diffithey would not suffer us even culty. At being told, however, that we to touch them were stransrers in the land, that we came from
:
and that
we
was an assurance on their part, pay the Priest for the trouble
the
we would
used
in
of transcribing,
to our lodgings in
Taganrog.
scarlet
in
headed by
in their
their
Priest,
the whole
party being
absent
;
best dresses.
We
had been
we
found these
we
lodged.
As we drew
2 V 2
436
*^xv^
^
CALMUCKS.
^^ y^^^ow frock,
>
made a long speech. The sub* was to inform us, that their law, esteemed sacred, had never been before suftance of this
fered to pass
but as they
had been assured that we were great princes, travelled to see the world, and gather instruction for our own people, they had ven-
who
They moreover
:
desired us
it
to observe,
was
written,
was
in
on
this
vui.
dailv usc amouof them. Their sacred characters, " ^ like those of Europeans, read from left to
right,
these
are used in
law.
in
The
their
correspondence and
life,
the ordinary
concerns of
columns.
We
in vain, since
England,
:
to
manuscript translated
satisfactorily decided
neither has
in
been yet
written^
lensky,
from
whom we
many
other
(l)
Edition, that
The Author has been informed, since the puhhcation of the it is Sancrit. The original is now deposited in
first
tlie
'
CALMUCKS.
acts of kindness,
437
was our
it
interpreter
upon
this
'
^Jv^*
occasion.
He
,-
was by no means
used
diffi-
It is frequently
in jistra-
and
whose inhabitants are principally Calmucks. We had an opportunity of seeing some who had
traversed those
trable regions.
resrard
capital,
impenesarmacand.
When we
to
Sarmacaxd,
celebrated
.
they described
it
as possessing the
it
also
many
curious
manuscripts;
as
the
of their manuscripts
even
in religious veneration.
Like
all
other Oriental
traditions
re-
they
preserve
many
specting Alexander.
These remarks,
in addition
we
more
antient historians.
Their number
in the Russian
and
at-
Frequent
them
to
p. 113.
438
CHAP,
'
wandering
Gipsies,
tribes, particularly
Lap-
and
they are so
much accustomed
life,
to an uncontrolled
and vagrant
that no-
them
and
to reside in
any fixed
habitation.
is
a continuation
thousand
the the
little
Near to the town are small plantations of trees, and particularly some fine oaks these the late Commandant planted, and
:
name
We
also
Spanish Liquorice'
the root of this
is
bloom
was
full
The
their
on account of the
The
altogether
without example.
Every
street
resembles a
(l)
Glycyrrldza glabra.
439
in-
We
\^^'Xl-
^^^^l^l
harmony and
which prevailed
among them.
intermarriages,
No
other as a stranger.
mode
whom
in the
he
is
connected.
Even
the
common
dis-
which peopled this place yet Babel itself could hardly have witnessed a greater variety of lan;
guages.
tives
The
fifteen nations,
whose representaassembled,
1.
Russians,
9.
French,
2. Greeks,
10. English,
3. 4.
Armenians,
11. Turks,
Germans,
Poles,
(2)
they
cultivate a
440
^
*
xv^'
-
commerce
-'
inhabi-
have
its
agent there.
The shores
Antiquities.
merce carried on by the Antient Greeks in the Euxine and in the Palus Mceotis, bring the traveller so near to what may be deemed classic
"^
be neglected.
We
and
Tumuli abound
cliffs
in
working the
for
where one of those tumuli had been raised, in a loose sandy soil, they had fomid an arched
vault,
shaped
like
most exquisite workmanship, with the same materials. If any thing were discovered by the
this
excavation,
its
it
was
for
contents
In
all
proba-
Sea of Zabasche.
as,
being more clumsy and never taken to pieces, they are carried about
on
cars.
Scythian population.
The Nagay
ill
the"
qualified,
is
unknown
auiong
all
MS.
Journal.
441
^"^^^
sepulchre,
by the
description
Such
the
trivial
The
tumuli in
much
more
antient.
News
called,
tary,
arrived before
we
left
Taganrog^ that
TcHERNOMORSKi, inhabiting Kuban Tahhad crossed the river Kuban with a consiofficer in the Russian service,
a Sclavonian
and
Circassians, in
order to
We
had long
Caucasus, and,
if
possible, to gratify
own country. A favourable opportunity seemed now to present itself; but even the
I)o7i
Cossacks
their
442
CHAR brethren
v
whom
they described as
i-y-
'
undertaking to
be
in the extreme. Yet the experience which had so often taught us that rumoured
perils vanish
when they
above
Voyage
across the
all,
tract of land,
encouraged us to
dcrtakiug. ^
seaofAzof.
than a boat,
The
first
part
was
we
could wish
all
to
through
in quarantine, as night
came
on, a gale
comlittle
violence.
Our
to
heavily laden,
ill
with an
enormous
be
sail
all
managed, seemed
mercy of the sea. The direction given to us had been, to steer south-east by east. The only person on board with the slightest knowledge of navigation, was a French
who pretended that he had been a sailor: this man held the guidance of our vessel. By mere accident we noticed the Polar Star and its bearing proved that we were out of our course. Upon this our helmsman
refugee at the helm,
;
443
if
"
Oh
yes,
'^
f'"AP.
-sr'-^
but,
mstead of
he had kept
sat.
it
upon which he
duced,
south
in
it
;
it
and
these waters,
who
are
all
of
them
coasters,
pilot,
may
only be
mentioned,
that
our
box containing the compass, in the hope of making the needle correspond with his wishes. Finding that all was wrong, an instantaneous and fearful confusion ensued. We let go the mainsail, and made an endeavour to lower it but the rigging became hampered, and the gale, fast increasing, bore the gunnel down; at the
same
time, the carriage rolling nearly over the
lee side,
we
shipped as
much water
as
we
could
Our
first efforts
roll.
were With
from another
we
were running over and against each officers in the British navy have often declared, that they encounter more real danger in what is called boating, than in doubling the Cape of Good Hope during the heaviest gales of wind perhaps not one of them m such a situation would have deemed it possible to
senses,
other.
Veteran
444
CHAP,
V
I
lives.
We at last,
however, succeeded
;
.y-
ill
and having
As
the
morning broke,
we
;
we
when,
more moderate weather to the promontory of Chumburskaia, in Asia, where we landed our carriage.
sailed with
Chumiur. ikam.
we
Chum burs kaia consists of a few miserable sheds, whose tenants were busied hauling their nets, when we arrived. So prodigious was the draught of fishes made at every haul, that the waggons stationed with oxen to carry off the produce of the fishery were inadequate to its removal. A single haul was somevillage of
The
times sufficient to
gons.
The
fishes
belonging to the
here,
being
first
salted,
We
fish
size,
sort
of large bream,
resembling
and those
445
fine gravel,
com-
chap.
XV.
posed of
shells
Swarms
of toads
so
impregnated with
it,
salt,
use
it
poses.
interior, the
view
is
bounded by
steppes,
tall
as
side,
covered with
guage," says
tion
luxuriant plants.
',
No
lan-
Humhoh
which a naturalist
attention
when he touches
European.
The
is
fixed on so great a
number of
sion he
receives.
and in some new production this tumultuous state of mind he does not recollect those which are most common in our These recollections of Natural History."
he discovers
marks are so
that
strictly applicable to
our
first feel-
upon landing
in Asia,
of
we new
A variet^^
to present
seemed immediately
;
beetles of a gigantic
Lond. 18N.
"HumbuU'sVcT%oudX Narrative,"
Vol.
I.
p. 88.
446'
^"5^^XV.
size,
various-coloured
insects,
and
some of which were twelve Having brought a letter to a inches in length. Greek gentleman, whose commercial speculations, particularly in the fishery, had induced
lare-e o^reen lizards,
him
:i[argari.
we
and
another small
;
tovskaia.
four
miles
from
to
Chumhirskaia
caused our
hoiise.
carriage
be conveyed to his
He was
own countrymen,
other
the neatness of
whose
all
cot-
the
country.
*'
"
have
to
be somewhat
removed from
the shore
He
we
gave us
should
custom of
his nation
and
have
it
felt
comfortable in his
little
dwelling,
had
bad
Reptiles, vermin,
we
Don
to those
may
any other
we
and
The roads
at this
season of
supplied.
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
Jtage
"
/^
phcenomenon."'^
The same
similar
meteorological
circumstances.
in their
The
forms
than at Petersburg.
Volume.
An
appeared in the Cambridge Chronicle. " Brought with them the pictures of the
in his
P. 26,
Sainfs."'2
1.
S, 9.
Broniovius,
sonesus,
illo
"
Kv
et
Imagines
insigniores
Kioviam deportavisse."
L. Bat. 1630.
Martini Bronioiii
insigniores can
Tartaria.
no other form.
P.
53.
Note
(1
.)
to
Augustine,
in 1653,
owing
it
has been
in
The
first
cast
was made
the
by a
fire.
The Empress
lire.
Anne,
in 1737, caused
it
Akne Iva.novnA
upon
exterior surface.
448
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
P. 199, last line of text:
"A
distinction of dialect."^
According
Perhaps
permitted to discuss
where
its
The
three great
trans-
Goth\ have
singular, that,
from
their opposite
all
The
Getc^,
by
tered as a nucleus,
when
by the
P. 339,
1.
22.
"
now,
the
name of
Danaetz."^
Observations of a
the
similar nature
suggested to
compilers
published in Holland, at the Elzevir Press, in 1630; as appears by the following passage: " Est
qui in Siberiensi Ducatu oriens (unde
et alter
TanaVs Minor,
Dunecz
Severski vocatur)
Dcscript.
Magnum
descendit."
Mus-
p. 8.
P. 348,
initial
1.
21 .
is
of this word
properly a diphthong,
common in
Sweden,
(1) By Goths, I would not be understood to mean the Barbarians who invaded tlie Roman Empire from the East; but the more antiwit
jam
Eh-g. YIJ,.
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
consisting of A, with writes
it
449
Heler therefore
Its
with the
it.
Mi-.
to p. S-tS.)
etymo-
logy
may be found
of Ptolemy.
P. 386, Note
&:cr\
(1).
" At
the time
of maVing
of
this extract,"
by the Russians ;
6lh ultimo.
"
It
is
exceeded
at Paris,
St.
Bartholomew's day
by the Russian
country.
troops,
on the inhabitants of
this ill-fated
*
The
general obeyed
and considerable
levies
their destination
whom
repair
made
in the
by proclamation, to
churches, in order to
on Sunday
This
artifice
The
inhabitants,
who
to
be got
VOL.
I.
at in detail,
were collected
2 G
focus
and
wjiile in
450
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
anxious expectation for the proffered act of grace, and uncon^
scious of the unpendlng danger, they were suddenly surrounded
by bands of
place,
soldiers,
and deaf
of the young
men from
in life
bosoms of
their parents,
;
all
that
was
or avert the
where those
atrocities
were perpetrated, no
less
than 700
human
form."
450*
ADDITIONAL NOTE
TO
P. 61.
*'
K.IRGISSIANS
The
author
and he has
people.
also
stated,
that very
little
is
kno\vn of
this
They
call
of the Desert." Their antient history is so obscure, that even their name, and the existence of their race, were unheard in
to the Russians
by Jermak
in
1581*.
The Kirgissians
in 1606,
and from
by
the Calmucks.
From immemorial
been divided
Their Chiefs,
are
titles
of
Ghodscha, Bio,
and Saltan.
The
renowned
For the
owing to the
mili-
* See Chap.
Russie,
torn.
XIII.
p.
I.
p. 76. Basle,
1800.
M'dller, p. 139.
ADDITIONAL NOTE.
characterizes
resembles
Kirgissiafis
Highlanders.
much The
may be
exist
among
a
his
these
widely-separated
in
nations.
The
to
author
depart
saw
into
Kirgissian,
Moscow, when
busied
in
about
own
in
country,
divination,
by
the
fire:
and he remembered, at
that such a
mode of
;
divination existed in
some
had observed
to be too
it,
he omitted
mention the
fact;
deeming
it
trivial
Having
it),
it
and
right to introduce
Additional
No.
XXVIII.
"The
Af^hauiis most ordinary mode of divination," obser.'es the writer of that article, " is by examining the marks in the blade-bone of a slieej), held up
to the light
time, the
:
APPENDIX.
No.
JL
I.
HE following document
at
is
inserted to prove
when
war with Russia, two English Gentlemen, accredited by their Government, and bearing with them recommendatory letters from the English Secretary of State, were
England was not
detained prisoners in that country, contrary to
the laws observed between civilized nations.
It is
to
their petition
a passport to return to
by means of
had
failed of effect;
literally.
" Le Comte
ne peut
Cripps et Clarke, en
Ce
qui con-
1g2
452
APPENDIX, N"
r.
remettre par
toute surete."
la poste,
et elle sera
rendue en
TRANSLATION.
" Count
Soltijcof is
gratify Messrs.
As
to the
conveyance of the
send
letter
addressed to
tlemen
may
it
by
it
will
be
As a comment upon
tion, it
this curious
communica-
may be
pretended security of
entrusted to the
destination:
;
they were
all
opened and
back to
their authors.
We
way
from Moscow
to Petersburg;
;
a distance nearly
and
it
was
in this
manner we obtained his instructions for attempting an escape by the southern frontier.
APPENDIX,
N" II.
453
No.
11.
TRANSLATION
OF THE
REPORT
made hj a
BOARD
of
RUSSIAN ENGINEERS,
The
TiieCanais
oi
vohshok,
its
One
place, serves to
brought to
of;
all
is
capable
slcy,
FilievviUevsicy
for
Canal.
in 1779,
1797> the
bound
to St. Petersburg
454
APPENDIX, N"
II.
were in danger of being totally stopped which circumstance was a convincing proof of the absolute necessity to complete this Cut
'
Felia'.
supply of
which
new
danger, in pass-
and many
lives,
of ten
roubles.
The plan was adopted, on exami^ 1775; but the work not begun till
In 1800,
the spring caravan,
(1)
To
(2)
The
toll collected,
roubles
is
APPENDIX, N"
perfectly finished.
3
ir.
455
Its completion
was
to
be
in
802.
The Canals
quence, notwithstanding
precaution,
human
foresight or
may put an
a time, both to the conveyance of the necessaries of life and articles of trade to the capital. Independent of this
circumstance,
this
track of
for future
it
use (the
an absolute
be
communication
be totally abandoned,
want of building materials. These inconveniences were observed by Peter the Great at the very beginning, he took measures to find other means of communication and, after a survey, had resolved on the junction of the Rivers Kofgia and Fetegra. His demise
:
put a stop
that time:
aijd,
to
it
in 1785,
456
principles.
APPENDIX, N"
II.
in
1799
this
of
department, of the
the
for
the purpose;
and the
canal,
to
now
called thc
Marienshj,
was begun
be dug
The first, between the Kofgia and Fitegra. excepting a few places which require being
cleared a
little, is
with
This canal
be supplied with
which
to
it
takes
its
is
be
fur-
to conduct
them
doivn to the
Vitegra.
made
;
navigable
make
and
in
some
to
shun the
ing in
Falls, is absolutely
necessary
extend-
all to
APPENDIX,
teen
versts.
:
N" If.
457
Hitherto
the canal
it
carried on
is
ten versts on
The
entire
completion
including the
time necessary
Vitegra,
and
be
computed,
will
1805
'.
canal,
in
expected to open
to the
Volga.
The caravan
by which the
for
as Vyshney Voloshok, in
most perfect
state,
for
(j)
and
in
17,9.0
were expended,
458
impedes
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
commerce.
Still
greater
benefits
would accrue from the Marknsky Canal, if the favourite plan of Petek the First were put into
execution;
nication
Project for
viz.
that of establishing a
commu-
by water between
In 1800,
inga^com-
White
Secis.
by order
of the Emperor,
practicability was examined into, and found r^'water" ^^^ between a. means of the River Sheksna, and
Petersburg
feasible,
ti^e
by
-^
and Arch-
Communication has
to
it
in
view
to
put
it
into
Empire
would be
the navy,
North of Russia.
Voloshok
viz. tlic
River vui.
toJ'i'ng^^^'^^'
the
by
contrary winds
'.
Measures
were taken to lessen the danger of the Falls and proper roads or tracks for towing vessels
(])
foj
and
APPENDIX,
N If.
459
were
ordered to be made
in 1799.
To
a
facihtate the
was begun to be made, at Schlussellmrg, the same In 1798, a new passage was also year-.
new
outlet
effected at Ladoga.
This canal
is
now
The sUkoy
thereof
re-
and again
sumed
in 1799*.
no less
so,
in
Petersburg,
and
distributing
them in the interior of the country. The chief object of these canals is, to avoid the Lake of Ladoga. From the River Sasy, merchandize
is
conveyed,
through
the
;
River
a land-
same name
it
to the
wharf
(2)
The new
selburg,
(3)
and another
town
of
Ladoga.
estimated to rost 117,000
The Outlet
;
at
Schlusstlburg was
roubles
(4)
460
of Sominka;
APPENDIX,
N" II.
the rivers
conveyed to the
From
goods,
is
annually
The deepening of
some of the
rivers
and
Tifin
greatly
impede
of
its
farther
last
progress.
The junction
these
two
wharfs,
by water, engaged the attention of Peter the First and proper measures for the discovery of the most eligible means were taken by Generals Dedenef, Resanof, and others, in In 1800, the examination was resumed, 1765. and the junction of the two wharfs found practicable, by a canal on the English plan, adapted
;
now
in
The
of
be constructed on
feet
when opened.
Voloshok
were
to
be followed,
a
;
they
of
sufficiency
mode
of
By
an Imperial
uhase, the
work
was
to
APPENDIX,
N II.
4G1
Project for
can^'ir"""
^^"^"e
When
]
the
nav^igation,
La-
was
Svir
also
examined
the
J^^^^^^"*^
part of them:
by means of the
through the
latter
the Svir.
and
of
its
chief object is
to
facilitate
the return
barks
The
dered
by water, between the Caspian and White Seas, or the Voha and the ISorthern Z)rm rivers, was m agitation m but the first the reign of Peter the Great survey was only made in 1785; and, as hardly any natural obstacle was found to oppose the execution of the plan, it was adopted, and a canal* begun to be dug, named the Northern Katherinskoy, which was to unite two small rivulets, having a morass of an immense exa communication
*'
To make
tent
for their
common
source,
situate
on the
frontier of Permia
and Onstnhk.
Volga;
rivulets
has a communication,
the
Kama,
with the
(J) It
is
(2)
but
llic
462
Fitchagda.
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
new
track,
or
by land, through a country then totally waste and uninhabited. This canal could have
supplied Archangel, at a
trifling
expense, with
Government of Oujimsk and Tznsiovaya from that of Permia, in the course of one summer. The importance of this canal is enhanced, by
the facility
it
immense
wood,
at Tchai-dina.
Thc
voigavfhh
...
versts
:
Don was
means of
called Hajia,
a canal of four
uniting
versts
the
by other was by
twenty-five
the
with the
ri-
falls into
the Volga.
Of
derable
part
was
carried
execution
APPENDIX,
N" II.
463
Why
was abandoned, is not known some supposed but the situation it was for want of water;
of the Vale of Bobriky confutes this statement,
'^as
being-
capable
of
becoming an immense
and quite
sufficient
for
receptacle of water,
this
navigation.
The
hydrography
of
this
feet,
with a
full lading.
plan proposed,
of joining the
The
the
was intended
of
to
be placed
at
sources
the
Kamishinka;
sufficient to
river.
supply the
common
fifty feet
a reservoir of water (point of separation in the original): yet, even with this advantage, the
navigation
must be carried on
in
caravans,
;
other-
effected, for
want
the
name
464
APPENDIX,
JSl"
II.
The Dnieper
river
is
of
all
the
provinces adjacent
is
the
Euxine.
This river
the
younger
sister of
Volga
and has
its
may be
from Dorogobush.
Two
or rather
moving sands, a
cir-
North of Russia
Krementchuky
navigation,
Near the
but they
It is
means whatever
(the
remedy
this
inconvenience,
considerable
quantity of
moving sand contained by the Dnieper being taken into consideration,) unless a body of
pilots
be established,
divided into
districts,
to
sound,
in
vessels
to
is
go by,
water subsides;
as
;
done
in
and which
APPENDIX,
N II.
405
Dnieper.
The Second
the passage
fatal
obstacle
is,
to
the
which
tended
limit
to the time
difficulty,
and only of a
Nothinar
but the enaction of a code of commercial laws can ever render the Black Sea useful to the
empire.
are manifest,
and
was made
temporary dikes, through wliich vessels may pass in the very middle of summer, both up
river.
Secondly,
The great
all
attempts
made
to
practicable,
river, it
up the
was resolved
it,
round
provided
with
is
sluices,
through a rocky
shore;
VOL.
which
I.
now
in h^ajid.
Three other
2 H
466
cataracts^
APPENDIX,
N" II.
about eight
expected,
remain to be worked on
that,
and
it is
navigable;
which
will
confer
inestimable
in
advantages
furnishing
on
the
the
country, of
particularly
interior
Russia with
it
salt,
which
of
will
by sums
money
to
the
in
Russia-Polish
coin, for this
provinces,
commodity
dominions.
though
flats,
is
intersected
by many
islands
the navigation.
is
The current
in general there
not strong;
use of oars
with very
in
wind.
Its
morassy shores,
some
districts,
it
towing-line,
for this
is
purpose;
will
silk,
salt,
and other
products
of the
Levant,
(l)
**
The work
float
down,
from the impediments of the cataract and above descent." Note by Mr. R. Comer.
APPENDIX,
N" II.
467"
the
interior
cannot exist.
rather
All
these im-
provements,
or
new
regulations,
are the
To
most
estuary,
opposes
great difficulties.
Its
influx into
the Euxine
its
cur-
is
In
summer
mouth
it
has
(thirty-
at the
Guhokaya
pristan,
or deep
very
purpose
at times unnavigable
from November
May:
flats,
with
which
eligible
forced
more
situation
was chosen
however,
for the
which
with
place,
is
not
communication
vessels lost so
the
Dnieper.
Trading-
much
468
ArPENDIX,
N" II.
was
often
spent
in
effecting
to
a passage
to
was necessary
make
voyage
to Constantinople.
Not having attained the desired point at this place, it was resolved to find a port for merchant vessels
difficulties
at
another,
that
offered
less to
in
the establishment;
and also
more
easily effected
by
transports.
The Bay
fit
of Hadgiby
as
for
con-
whose
vicinity
Poland,
and
Volhynia,
made
the
poses.
The navigation
uninterrupted
the
whole year
Magazines
goods
for the
down
but vast
descend
for
the
Admiralty.
This however
this
comparatively
little,
commerce
will
amount
to,
when
From
Krementchuk, about
(I)
It will
Shoals in the Dniester, are the great obstacles to the interior com-
it is
therefore
most
astonishing-, that
a nation,
APPENDIX,
sixty barks, with
salt,
II.
469
to Smolensk, as well as
of the Dnieper ;
viz.
Pinsk,
and Borovitz.
The
land,
salt
is
conveyed above
700
the
will
versts
by
to
Crimea,
When
the land-carriage
be reduced to
to the Bereslasshoy
Wharf on
the salt
may
Dnieper.
turally
many
smaller
streams
attention,
as
Most
Upper
capable of
being
seasons of great
itself is
hardly passable.
command
of
men
('ompanies of
individuals in Eni^land."
470
APPENDIX,
N"
IT.
The Druza,
Beresixa,
Dnieper at Rogatchef.
pretty
considerable.
700
versts
down
a
to
of PedosersJcoy,
carriage
In this passage,
versts
land-
of thirty
was unavoidable,
of
from the
Luki;
Essa,
.
wharf
the
to
the town
Kransnic
floated
down by
Measures
effect
at
Lepela.
were,
consequence,
taken
to
some
sluices,
cessary to be made.
to
be joined
to
Lake
Oulla.
Plavio,
and Beresta ;
on the
Baltic.
On
and Pedoser
the last
first,
is
To
the
two
for the
pro-
Among
the great
number
is
navi-
gable
as
far
Minsk,
from the
Spring
APPENDIX,
to July.
floating
It
is
N" TI.
471
convenient for
particularly
which may be procured, in any quantity, from the immense forests that are in its course, and which
down
of
timber;
The
SosiiA
is
considerable;
and
only few
to enable vesit
has
its
now
the
navigable,
the
month of
Kiof
river.
July,
is
extent of 4 to 500
versts.
supplied
The Pripit
Dnieper:
east,
is
it
the
takes
Almost
this river.
10,000 pouds of
above 500
versts,
to Pinsk.
into the
Pripit:
The Strumen, or the Suchona, must be cleared of some stones, and then vessels may go as
far as Kovel.
Yatzolda
is
the
estuary
of
the
Oginshj
472
It
APPENDIX, N"
has a very
ir,
weak
general, through
runs, in
could be
made
;
navigable
500
versts
all
and through
Folhynia might
in their
upper
be built
at the
dams
of the
many
sluices
far as
Dabno,
if
twelve
Zna and Lan. During high water, some timber is brought down these rivers from Lithuania. OuDOBREi a small river from Folhpiia : this
.
might be improved
on
for
some hundred
versts.
thuania:
is
timber
floated
down.
to
be made navi-
Dnieper.
made
consequence
general
;
country
in
some
respects,
than the
as
it
takes
its
whole course
fruitful
APPENDIX,
N" II.
473
wooded
of 800
districts.
It is
versts
Severskoy,
to
Provisions,
carried
timber,
it
by
from
to
From by means of the Dnieper. barks depart out of it one to three hmidred annually and more than this number return It was to it from Krementcliuk with salt. proposed to join the Desna with the Oka, by means of the Volva and the Zishdra ; a pro;
communication of Russia.
Ukraine, Little Russia, &c.
LevaJit,
By
this junction,
greatly facilitated.
will, in
No
doubt the
Board
into
consideration.
is
of great importance,
being navigable from Luhen, were the Cataracts of the Dnieper cleared,
and opportunity
waters.
PicoL.
is
steppe,
is
navigable
onl}'-
is
dry
in
summer.
; :
474
APPENDIX, N"
IT.
Krilopka,
steppe or
an
inconsiderable
It
river
of
the
to
desert.
which
falls
into the
The junction of
To
impracticable; but could the project be executed, the passage over the Cataracts of the
VoRSKLA,
passing
near Putiava,
it
could
be
made
Orel, only a
torrent.
Samara
be considered
never
.
it
is
considerable
its
water
it
frequented
the country
is
(1)
in p.
468.
APPENDIX,
N"
ir.
475
steppe
process of time,
it
may
proportion as
population
it,
increases.
for
Grazing
it is
sheep
which
particularly
in
wool,
BuGG,
or
mouths
Oczakof.
river,
thirty
versts
above
go
may
up 150
versts:
beyond
this, it
becomes a
tor-
versts, full
of cataracts, and
can only be
made navigable at an expense and labour that would never produce equi-
valent advantages.
cable or reasonable
river,
Were
by
from
Rivers
Bog.
junction
476
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
of,
but found
its
of twenty sluices, on the English plan, might be made navigable as far as Nicholaef, where
the docks, magazines, &c. for the navy, are
with the
but the
Ingul,
interior,
by water, be
established;
difficulties,
The
this river,
extremely dangerous
of
tlie
Another
port,
its
great
inconvenience
attends
this
The
and
middle, with
little
draw-
may
be
APPENDIX, sometimes
period
N" ir.
477
during
the
made
to
in
Donstf'.
employed
going up the
Lower
The Sin uc II A, a small marshy, stagnated rivulet. It was thought practicable here, by means of
a Canal of five or six
Dniester with the Bog,
versts,
to unite the
and
tlie
sluices on the
Yaourlina, which,
in water,
notwithstanding, abounds
difficult.
made
Were
the country
more products,
executed
:
this
at present
impossible.
The
streams
Till
made
navigable,
it is
needless to
of improving these
rivers,
although
of
fruitful
provinces
From
many
rivers,
'^78
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
but,
sand
this, in
commu-
some
versts,
would become safe and convenient ports or havens. In some of them salt may be procured.
Among
the
Gulph or Leman
is
but to water
cattle,
human
it is
art to
itself
be made navigable.
The leman
extends
this
entrance choked,
It
with quicksand.
produces
fish,
and also
salt.
Telegul, equal
to the
by
ex-
; :
APPENDIX,
three or four feet deep
its
:
N ir.
this
47^
however changes
is
stormy weather.
This leman
not so deep
Its
shore
is
marshy, and
it is
supposed, infects
It is
fall
neighbourhood.
small streams
very
it,
rich in fish.
Many
in
into
but
it
is
dry
summer.
The source
of
from this
it is
it is
only separated by a
steppe,
it
hill.
Bog Though
this, it
air.
a stream of the
has a constant
parts
;
all
though very
fall
same
name but these are dry in summer. The Bays Konyalnitzkie, or rather Lakes, fifty or sixty versts in extent, having no communication whatever with the sea, are about five
They
is
are of considerable
unhealthy.
The
river
of this
name
is
much
the Telegul, but becomes dry in summer. The Rivulets Dalnik and Parahoy are common torrents, perfectly dry in summer they fall
:
480
APJ'ENDIX, N"
into lakes separated
II.
sands.
The Dniester
dominions.
of considerable magnitude,
and navigable for vessels of a middling size. Without much expense or trouble, it could be
.
made
versts.
5O0
But
certain circumstances,
however, have
all
by the course of
only
staple
estuary
was
in possession of the
to
The peace of
away all difficulties, and this river consequently became an object of attention to
1791 did
Government.
even
In general,
it is
deep
vessels,
drawing above
Its
;
two
feet water,
part,
upper
these in
and a half
APPENDIX,
water.
N"
II.
481
carried on in
is
nience
not so
much
felt
and the
like in
assisted
by the
the Dniester,
now
cleared,
up
The chief obstacle to trade on this river was the want of towinsfpaths, the establishment whereof is now under
consideration.
The Dniester,
estuary,
length,
forms, at its
to six broad,
which
by two
is
different branches or
This gulph
However,
flotilla
some go hence
it,
to
the
the
Last war,
to the
Russian
went through
very
built
walls of Bender.
Some
brigantines
were
and
Nicholaef.
The shallowness
man,
versts
from
from
Ovidiopole,
situate
thirty-eight
Odessa;
which,
2
1
properly con-
VOL.
I.
482
sidered,
is
APPENDIX,
II.
these parts.
Goods
the
to Odessa
by
land,
sometimes by water.
of
On
upper part
Stria
dominions.
and
Salezic
in
Podolia,
is
the
is
also per-
formed.
Dniester
abounds
and sturgeon.
Dniester.
in
The Knzurgan, a
into
dry
BoTNA has
vation
is
its
more practised
in its vicinity.
of no use
summer. Yarlica, has plenty of water, flows quick over a stony bottom, and approaches so near the
dry
in
Bog
{Kodima), that
it
to
tending two
versts,
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
483
rivulets,
but of no use
original
for navigation.
The
Dniester
'
and
The
first
branch
At Samhr,
into the
jiustrians
Vistula.
a small stream,
falls
by means whereof
river with
the
the
to
No
is
be found
Sea, parti-
can connect
it
The only
Don
the
its
first
has
for
principal
port.
in the ports
,
chimera; as
torrents from
484
APPENDIX,
II.
The Sea of Azof extends from the Crimea to town of Azof, and joins the Euxine at
Strait antiently called Bosporus.
the
the
Ivanofskoy Lake,
waters a considerable
divides
into three
At
its
mouth,
at
Azof
it
is
First,
by means
of the River
into the
Dox.
The Danaet^ has its source a little above the town of Belogorod, and is generally navigable,
particularly in
spring.
On
this
river are
coal-pits.
The
little-
when
proto
Tcherkask.
BoLUTZAR,
at the
name.
APPENDIX,
N ir.
485
little traffic.
into
is
it
falls
the
though small,
frequented
Choper has
its
province of Penza, a
fruitful
country, abound-
This river,
course
is
through
the district of
Choperskoy,
when
the
joined
by
the
Fbrona.
Higher up,
Choker fall The VoRONA, KoLiTLEY, Gamala, Milkarey, Arkadak, Karay, andSERDOBA; all waterInto the
Medvitza,
versts y
originating from
some
its
insignificant
course, 283
through
steppe.
Its
banks are
Yettary.
by the
Some
486
water.
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
fall
the Yeskara,
Tersa,
Kolishley,
Karamish,
Balanda,
and
thirty to a
hundred
versts;
and might be
useful,
but for
EuxiNE
Seas.
At
was
dis-
by means
of the rivers
ordered to
seiiskoy
CauaP,
1799; and
is to
be finished
in
1805.
By
this
new communication,
the com-
Little Russia,
but that of some other Southern Provinces, would be facilitated and encouraged. Sixteen
years ago,
it
was in
and Dvina, by a canal between the city of Orstra and BaKmovichy and this was found practicable
,
;
much
(1)
The
Polish estimate
deficient.
APPENDIX, N"
II.
487
'^^'ski/
The commerce of
Cxnal.
Government.
a
a canal,
Ghatzolda,
between the Dnieper and the river Niemen, consequently between the Baltic and the Euxine
Seas; but the work was
Sievers
abandoned.
;
proposed a continuation
in 1798,
this
it
sumed
and
it
is
supposed
will
be
finished in 1803^.
By means
be greatly
warlike
use of Government.
still
This communication
were the Niemen and the Dvina joined: a plan and estimate are already made by General De Witt, and the junction is to be effected by means of ^ r A the rivers Nevesha and Lavenna. A cursory view of the map will soon convince every one of the benefits that would accrue there from, not only to the adjacent country, but to Livonia and Lithuania; as also Courland, and even the country beyond the Oginsky Canal. The products of these rich provinces would be then naturally
greater advantages,
1
would produce
Ti-r
Niemen
Dvina.
amounts to 250,000
roubles.
488
APPENDIX,
N*
II.
whose ports of Konigsberg, Memel, Pilan, &c. are enriched by this trade. The native merchant would then profit by the advantage v/hich
naturally proceeds
goods
own
country, instead
Southern Inland
mieper.
the
is
clearing
of the Cataracts of
In places of insurmountable
be had
with
to a circuitous passage,
through canals
sluices,
locks, &c.
founded expectations,
that, in the
few years, navigating vessels up the river, or against the stream, will be practicable \ The
event
is
the
more devoutly
salt,
to
be wished
for,
as
for
which an exorbitant
the navigation
exacted.
When
up the
salt It
is
these countries
The
The contract is now ended, and Government have kept the salines in their own direction. The mode adopted wil>, it is firmly expected, produce
to one Peretz, a Jew, for less than 800,000 roubles.
two
APPENDIX,
N" II.
489
much
to
ing vessels
now
in
be changed,
Dnieper
'
On
Dniester.
dangerous, even
water:
proper measures
the stones
,
away
is
and a
barks.
The
nobility
be
down
The
want of
this
necessary
article,
which they
chiefly procure
extravagant price
and,
it
what
is
more grievous,
roubles,
two millions annually; and 17,000,000 inhabitants (besides the military and
civil
be supplied
at low price.
Jews have
more than a
(3)
when brought
io
Odessa,
(4)
for
From
the reign
under
Elizabeth.
490
appendix,
11.
St.
Fyshney
Voloshok
Division
Com-
munication.
The Volga
is
Vazuza, navigated by 120 to 150 barks. GzAT, furnishes also, annually, 6oo barks.
Tvertza
Voloshok,
is
the
principal
track
to
Vyshney
conveying
annually
about
6000
Medinka,
MoLOGA, a
number
by means
of
Goruna,
and Somina,
This
versts to Tifin
it.
wharfs
trade
is
to increase.
The Sheksna
Petersburg,
IVhite
of inland navigation,
from the
of Belo
'Volga
to St.
by means
Osero,
or the
to the
Lake;
land, to
APPENDIX,
II.
49l
River
Neva.
Svir,
Lake of Ladoga, into the This track will become the chief
the
to
St.
means of supply
Petersburg, on
the
to this
part of the
Volga,
are
The Sestra, Sosha, Katorosla, Kostroma, OuNSHA, and Velluga. These are of small
importance to trade, except on account of
building vessels,
of which from 2 to 3000
The Oka.
It
2000
twenty-seven
fathoms in length
four,
and
six
fathoms in breadth;
and
It
fit
for service
from four
to eiofht
years.
is
superior
Dnieper,
is
practicable.
to
This circumstance
for,
the
more
be wished
8cc.
as a great
quantity of meal,
could be furnished
492
APPENDIX,
N" II.
Moscow and
St. Petersburg.
in the
government of Tver.
First,
it
Peter the
was
Moskva, in the Moscoiu government. MocsHA, in the Pezna government, through the Tzna\ in the province of Tambof,
From
cools,
many
other pro-
ducts of consequence,
annually sent.
perial
as tallow,
&c.
are
In consequence of an Imcanals
order,
were begun,
in
to
pass
the river
Klasma,
Vladimir Government.
belong to the same Division,
The Nara, Protva, Osetre, Prona, Ougra, VOSA, GiSHDRA, NUGRA, SoUSHA, RoMANOVKA, and Tish.
(1)
The Tzna
falls
APPENDIX,
N II.
493
Lom'ER
into the
Volga.
SouRA.
is
conveyed through
this
river to
Nishney
Kama.
The products
all
of the governments of
by this those of Siberia by its river, and almost branches, viz. Tzusova^ Ousa, Belaia, and
Viatka and Permia are transported
Viatka.
it
was proposed
with the
to join
Volga, by the Northern Dvina means of the Kama, and a Canal, which was accordingly begun, but not continued. Samara, is navigated by vessels, mostly with
salt,
Kamishinka, a
noted only as
furnishing
stream, which
became
between
falls into
this
the Lower Cut was begun stream and the Hofia, which
means
unite
The
by means
Voloshoh
through which
494
APPENDIX,
the vessels pass into
N"
II.
the
Lake
Msta.
The cataracts m this river, known by the name of Borovitzhy, not only impede the
regular course of this
trade,
but occasion
homeward, or
Msta.
OuvER.
On
sluices, or
dams,
Some wood
down
the
and the
Yavan
falling into
Through these rivers 300 barks pass annually, which must cross the
lake to get into the Volchof River.
unite the
Seligher,
APPENDIX,
and thereby
Folga to
vitzky
St.
N"
II.
49^
effect
safe passage
from the
the BoroPerry,
Petersburg,
by avoiding
in
Falls.
The
the
report of Captain
situation
who
examined
Villebois
17
Hj was
unfavourable
with
regard
asserted
but,
to
the
execution.
General
a proper
having discovered
the
track;
on investigation,
by which
The intended
to
be united by a canal of
To
the
Novogorodsky,
was dug;
also
some
:
diffi-
to
do
away begun
be dug
;
in the
river,
in a direct line
may
The
Volchof.
The VoLCHOvETz, Shoba, Choresta, PisobSome half barks come sHA, and TiGODA.
49(5
APPENDIX,
from these rivers
fuel, is floated
;
N II.
for
from the
The
vessels
This well-known The Canal of Ladoga. canal was begun in 17 18, finished in 1732,
and
is
104
versts in extent.
If
any thing
it
could be proposed
for its
its
improvement,
were only
to
make
bed
Lake of Ladoga.
The many
case,
reservoirs
it
now
inevitably neces-
sary to supply
be useless
and the
great
annual
dams
into
it
for
same purpose of collecting water, would then be saved. The canal in general,
the
sums annually, for necessary repairs these sums were diverted to other purposes during the reign of the Empress Catherine,
:
and
the
it
canal
to
nearly
filled
up.
it
caused
be cleared, and
is
Paul now in
good order.
The
least
new
outlet
was begun
and
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
49;
Along
i
the banks
of
is
up the stream,
at
The Cataracts
Pella
were
cleared in 1798'.
extremely dangerous
and impracticable
fitted for sea.
for
Lake of
Ladoga:
The VoLCHOF, as before mentioned. Sash is the means of communication between the Folga and St. Petersburg, by the help of
the rivers Mologa, Somina, and Tifinka.
now
carried on.
From
sometimes
Neva.
When
the
canal
(the Sdshkoif),
between the Sash and the Volchof is finished which is a prolongation of the
great Ladoga Canal, the dangers of the lake
will
be avoided;
and,
consequently,
this
(1)
VOL.
1.
K.
498
APPENDIX, N'
II.
The Pasha and Oyait. Through these rivers, some timber is brought down and on their banks a great number of vessels are built;
;
particularly
those
St.
for
the
transporting
of
goods from
even sometimes to
1
In the course of
was
to begin
between the
and the
Svir.
On
the completion
of this work,
the quantity,
now commonly
of timber,
track,
wood
be trebled,
the lake.
river,
by which many
it
whence
Volga,
derives
its
is
transported
from
the
through
the
Sheksna, to Fitegra.
It will
between the
it,
rivers
Kofgia
and
Vitegra,
The
cataracts in
quence,
difficult;
render
return of
barks
they are
now
be necessary.
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
499
were worked up, at great expense, by human The return of a simple galliot, from labour.
two hundred roubles. On this river are some private dock-yards, for building ships, some of which have even reached the Indies. A considerable number of ships sail through the Lake of Ladoga, to St. Petersburg, from the towns of Olonetz, Serdopol, and Kexholm.
the Ladoga to the Onega Lake,
costs
Besides
Lake.
the
above-mentioned
rivers,
the
The Ianesh,
a small stream.
lanesh,
The
in general,
Volga,
by means of
this Division
of Inland
Navigation, are.
at the
it.
falls into
Tzagodotza;
2k2
500
It is
APPENDIX,
N II*
more
:
when
is
fully
laden
into
even shallow at
:
same name
are
built,
at its
upper
tifenhy,
part
200
boats
called
in
this
The GouiN has some cataracts, but vessels go up and down this river. TiGHviNKA, from the town of Tighvin, to where
it
it
is
sufficiently
;
deep
for
town, to
it
its
more
Sash.
than a river.
sought
to unite
and Sominsk.
doing
it,
by
no
Tighvinka,
through
some
plan
lakes,
with the
of
Somina
other proofs
this
remain
into
any
attempt to carry
execution,
tradition,
and
by
his order
on the
Another
Lake Krupino,
APPENDIX,
canal,
It
'
II.
501
water
and, consequently,
was
shan,
frustrated.
But,
on transferring the
little
River Foltestablish
was found
for
practicable to
but only
employed
on
Tighvinka
and
Somina,
defi-
was
to
furnished
with
thirteen
gates, with a
feet.
From
was
versts
to unite the
which
falls into
it
the Sheksna.
investigation,
less
water than
Resanof.
Ihose
pointed
out
by
General
by
General Dedenef
led, in
some
places, through
502
APPENDIX,
N II.
depth;
in others,
through
low grounds, where dykes and dams were to be erected, and even stone aqueducts
built, to
rivulets
which crossed
its
course.
Half a
it
as the
hardly
sluices.
sufficiency
to
supply
its
eight
The
a
difficulties
of
Generals
Dedenef
track
and
Resanof
being
evident,
new
in
was sought
;
for,
and
discovered
1800
1801
and, in
1802,
The Rivers
belonging
this
Division are,
The Sheksna,
into the Volga. to Belosersk
;
the largest of
those
falling
by it The trade
trans-
of Kargopole
ported by land,
to
the
River
APPENDIX,
Proma, which
vessels
falls
N"
II.
5Q3
The
their
from
are
the
Volga
to
the
wharf of
and
land, to
into
Badoshka
there
unloaded,
cargoes carried
the
city
fifty-five versts,
by
of
Fitegra,
then
reloaded
galliots,
St.
Petersburg.
and a
half,
The plan requires only to be executed, to make this navigation Peter the First had it completely safe.
of six or seven feet.
The
public-spirited representations
to
Paul, procured an
to
monument
of her patriotism.
Rivers fall into the
The following
Sheksna
The Lou DA. The lower part is pretty navigable and a number of barks are constructed on it.
The
respective
504
APPENDIX, N"
II.
SoucHONA,
It
number
was supposed
that
it
was
possible to
effect a junction
some tracks were found that promised The object of this plan was, first, success. open a water communication between to St. Petersburg and the city of Vologda; and,
1
800,
St. Petersburg.
One of
water
be made), with a
fall
(or descent of
(out of
River Parosovitza,
and
falls
the Lake
The
river
other track
lakes,
but turned
must be
first
made
Some barks
are built on
it.
Pioma.
From
by
land,
forty-five
to the
APPENDIX,
into other vessels,
N" ir.
505
which went through the little River Lourda, as far as the Lake Latz6, out of which issues the River Onega, on which
Marwhere the great Cataracts begin: komonsa, the goods were then again unshipped, and carried by land nine or ten versts, to the little
River
Yamsscha,
through which,
and
the
is
(belozerky' )
much
better constructed
Lake Beloozero,
Lake.
or WJiite
which
divided
by mountains.
it;
Kema.
floated
No
vessels frequent
but timber
is
down.
The KoFGiA.
By
went only
When
the
Mariensky Canal
is finished,
fifteen versts
'1)
$06
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
When
the plan
of
it
River Vitegra more navigable, by digging canals round the dangerous place, and erecting nineteen sluices; which work
is
already in hand.
The
river is navigable
and
into
which
it
itself.
Only
fifteen versts is
necessary to
be worked on now.
into the
River Vitegra.
case of need.
From
the Onega, which they navigate sixty the source of the Svir.
to
is
timber
is
not practicable.
In consequence of a
Megra and
Oshta,
be
APPENDIX,
their respective wharfs.
N"
II.
50/
canal is to be dug seven feet lower than the level of the water in
The
all
the lake,
which makes
sluices,
&c.
un-
necessary.
Rivers falling into the
Lake Onega.
rivulets,
The Oshta, Metra, inconsiderable and not navigated, but some galliots
on them.
are built
ViTEGRA, described
before.
At present,
finished,
this
by 130
to l6o vessels.
will
The Marienshy
open a passage
Canal,
to
when
many
thousands.
it.
Andoma,
all
the rivers
called
may be
It
its
had an
dreadful
navigation
its
absolutely imit is
unless just at
estuary,
rather
These
difficulties
who was
sensible of
The survey being made, it appeared that the easiest track was through the very Vodla, supposing that, by
St.
508
APPENDIX,
II.
were
to go
up the
rivulet Scherevia,
by help of
From
this
lake
emptying
itself
the
same name,
wharf
navigation
was
by a
Northern Dvina.
On
new
survey, in
800,
it
make
the
but doubts
were entertained, whether the proposed point of separation, at the Lake Voloshkoe, could
furnish
the
necessary water
to
but the
chief
si-
obstacle
was found
7 in
APPENDIX, NMr.
eminences,
springs.
509
The
was
impracticable.
insigni-
its
the Lake
estuary, at that of
Onega. In
Peter the
was
pro-
by means of
At the persuasion of some merchants, a survey was actually made in 1800. It appeared that there was a possibility of conducting the water of the Lake Vodla, whence issues the Poventza, to the Lake Mateo, or to the River Telekina, whose source it forms, by means of
a morass, at the foot of the mountain
celga
;
Ma-
of seven
to
Onega with
mountain.
the above-mentioned
Macelga
JO
But the
APPENDIX, NMI.
line of direction of this canal
being
morassy surface;
extent in
all its
is,
parts,
the question
its
The MouMBAscHA and Koum approximate the Lake Flgh, so near, that a junction was attempted
ticable.
;
it
imprac-
insignificant rivulets
or flowing towards,
the
White
The Kema,
full
Sea.
branches
of industry.
lake,
a torrent
it
takes
same name, and empties itself into the White Sea, by a multiplicity of dreadful cataracts, at the wharf of Snolm. Between the Falls, the river is very deep, and sometimes, for some versts, it does not appear to have any current: from these seeming pools issue The the most tremendous shoots of water.
of the
APPENDIX, NMT.
estuary
is insufficiently
511
drawing ten
feet
at
One
hundred
scription.
It is to
course,
from different
in its
neighbourhood, and
interspersed with
a number of islands.
falling into the Vigh, is.
The
The SiGHisHA,
issuing
itself,
Sigh,
considerable of
and
less intersected
by
inconsiderable,
:
full
of
falls,
wharf
for the
Petersburg
summer
no
con-
veyance.
name
an
is
versts
off,
which extent
512
APPENDIX,
N'll.
Twelve
versts
a quay to be constructed
This spot
is
more
eligible
The
from
tides
five to
White
Sea.
the port;
the
adjacent
for
country
a
being
impassable, in summer,
considerable
in
every direction.
division of
its
source
is
V6d.
In the great
map
and
Lake
this
It is
Latzi
it is called Sved,
and on crossing
versts
below
and
Kargopol; when,
APPENDIX, NII.
During that season, some
floats
513
of timber,
town of Onega.
from year
part,
This navigation
is
decreasing
to year,
and
is,
on account of Government.
In the River
Onega Jlill
The VoLOKSA
(the Upper).
great quantity of
this river;
down
and
even during the high water in spring, vessels could pass, though it is full of rapids and
stones
:
pass
dried
it,
with
fish.
difterent
Upper p^odla to lakes, the Rivulet Tzerevia, up which they proceed to the landing-place, from whence the vessels and cargoes are carried by land five versts to the Voloshkoe Lake through which they proceed to the Lake Ken, and by the river of the same name to the Onega. MosHA, the principal river of those falling into
;
and go down by
the Onega:
it is
means of subsistence by any branch of industry. Do^vn this river a vast quantity of
Listvenishno timber is
floated,
the adjacent
VOL.
I.
2 L
5t4
APPENDIX,
II.
it
is
conveyed by water
to Marhamousa,
and from
Shelehsa,
by
which
it
goes
down
Mituga, and
full
Kg DEN A,
and
of rapids
stones..
Divisio7i
to
Dvina.
particular attention.
and a
the
great
traffic
is
fall
carried
into
it,
thereon,
and the
the
streams that
to Archangel,
till
empties
different
itself into
White Sea, by
five
channels
Dvina.
The Pinega: timber is floated down this river. ViTZEGDA into this river falls the Northern Keltma, which it was intended to unite with a southern river of the same name, that joins the Kama. {Vide " The Section concerning
:
the
navigation of
the
Volga."")
Canal,,
APPENDIX,
proposed by General
small expense, a
N" II.
515
Souchtelen,
new branch
would have been opened between the provinces of Permia, Viatka, &c. and Archangel-,
not only for the purposes of trade, but the
conveyance of timber
Vaga.
Its
consequently
for
navigation,
but
some timber is floated on this river. Uga, and Lower Souchona, two of the principal branches of the Dvina : the latter is deserving
of principal consideration, as great quantities
of grain and other merchandize are
trans-
ported by
its
it
to Archangel,
Its
neighbourhood.
source
from the
it
Lake Koubensha,
by means
of which
is
The Neva.
The advantages of
it
this river
have
opens a com-
516
Between St.
APPENDIX,
N" 11.
Petersburg and Schlusselburg, the folloiving Streams fall into the Neva.
inconsiderable,
wood
OcHTA, not navigable. MoiKA, and Iontalka, are canals dug through
the city of
St.
Finlaxd.
The KuMEN
is
numberless lakes
gable but at
its
not navi-
estuary,
where
is
now
the
zahne.
At the building
the
frontier,
it
of different fortifications on
make
line of
formerly obliged to do
for this
purpose canals
were dug; through these, and some lakes, a passage by water may be effected, round
the Swedish frontier, even as far as Nenschlot.
The Koutvalentaiskoy, KoutvelextripolSKOY, Kafkinskoy, Koukotaipolskoy, and Telltaipolskoy, flow in various directions,
APPENDIX, N"
II,
517
from IVilman-
and through
different places,
strand to Nenschlot.
Ingermanlaxd.
wood
The Luga;
pass, from
Narva.
Narova,
Narva
is
Gulph of Finland.
its
source
From
This river
is
remarkable for
The
Lake Pshof, which is only a continuation of the Lake Peypus, Tzudskoe, being one body
of water,
is
more remarkable
some
from the
Several rivers
fall
into
it:
the P'elikaia
it
the chief, as
bottom
is full
518
lof
APPENDIX,
stones,
N^" ir.
pools.
The Vo
and
is
falls into
the Schwarizbach,
by a branch
of the River
^a
The Em BACH
falls
also
into
it,
Peypus.
Many
river
Lake
Urief.
Means
are sought to
by a
branch of the
Phinerty
towards
Pernan.
o/*
From
Pernan,
full
the
of water-falls.
The
Yasovala, Fena,
cipal,
Ftghierbach, &c.
the
fleet, in
It
was supposed
and
by means of a
communication
thereby
open
Firtz
between
the
Lakes
and
the
River
APPENDIX,
Navast;
Peypus,
and,
N"
IT.
^19
the
consequently,
with
Lake
to Dorpai.
in spring, a considerable
number of
mentioned
Were
;the
De
Witt
Aa
Dvina or Cluna, an uninterrupted communication between Riga and the Peypus would be established.
to
be dug,
itself
is
to
requires
much
The
labour to be
made
perfectly navigable.
may be
Lake Fagoula
necessary for
this
communication,
also to be cleared,
built.
at private expense,
Nor
is it
great
traffic
may be
by the government of Pshof, through the Narova. The advantage of a passage through the Schwartzbach would be great indeed, were it to lead to
an inland water communication between the
ports of
St.
Petersburg
and Riga,
to avoid going
by
520
APPENDIX,
N' II.
from
all
the interior provinces as far south as Kiof, for the exportation of their products, forms a separate division of inland navigation.
This river
is
navigable to
About one
it
annually,
number
the
and
ex-
mast wood.
This
traffic is
likely to continue,
notwithstanding
river,
filled
above
it.
All possible
to
also subject to
be choked up, by
moving bodies of sand. It was supposed, that by increasing the natural current or stream of the river (or increasing the rapidity), by narrowing it with dykes or dams, these bars to navigation would have been removed but the
;
it
caused an inundation
destruction
the
low
was only saved by the undermining or washing away of the dykes, and the stream making itself a new channel, or
this
outlet, at a
new
course,
it
APPENDIX,
IT.
521
was supposed,
that,
as
drawing six
feet, it
by working on the ice with certain machines in use at Plymouth This work could not, at any rate, (dr agues).
ticularly during the winter,
be executed
and from
must ever
be continued, as
at the
There
is
but
its
admit of any
left
shore,
;
but
been attempted;
would require such immense sums, that the Board has resolved not to enter upon it, nor attempt deepening
and
it
Dvixa
DuNA.
joins
it
at the fortress
passmg Milan
divides
itself into
two branches
the
one
522
called
APPENDIX,
N^ H.
Both
but
are
branches
capable
have
of
falls
and
rapids,
improvement,
particularly
the
navi-
made
the last
is
to
By
this
new water
may be
now
of Poland, instead of
the case,
transported to
at
low
The navigation of the Bludera deserves even now some atRiver Niemen
treated
of.
down to Riga for exportation. The Yavghel, two branches of the same name,
unite with the lake so called, which empties
itself,
by a
lake),
Another
Aa
some few versts : by this a new water conveyance would be opened with the Lake Peypus, and the government of Pskof.
by a
Some wood
articles,
for fuel,
this river.
APPENDIX, N"
II.
5'23
The Oghera,
full
of stones,
is
not capable of
any improvement.
The Perz A, equally stony with the foregoing, and not to be made navigable without great expense. Yefcet is a considerable river, and might be
navigated during
high and
middle
water,
were some stones removed, and cataracts improved this plan is now in contemplation. Driza. During high water, in spring, some
:
wood,
down
this river.
Drizna has
Livonia,
is
full
and of no use
and, even
whatsoever.
PoLATSKA
improved
is totally
unnavigable
expense,
if
at
great
could
never
benefit trade.
OuLLA
down from
towed
the town of
is
Leppelaz;
floated
down,
which
were
up the River
whence they
were transported by land to the Yessa: this falls into the Lake Belo, below the Leppeh whence the Oulla has its source. Upon examination, after taking possession of Lithuania,
made,
it
appeared practicable to
effect
524
APPENDIX, N"
II.
which
falls into
the Beresen,
falls into
the River
this
Yessciy
it
For
to
purpose
was necessary
cuts in
and
make
circuitous
sluices
and on the
Bereshte,
two
and
two
sluices.
On
neces-
all this is
it
begun; and
in 1805,
supposed,
will
be completed.
By
this
between the Black Sea and the Baltic; and the conveyance of the products, not only of
the province of Minsk, but of White and Little
Russia,
to Riga, will
be
facilitated.
by means
Upper Dvina (Duna), in the neighbourhood of the town Balinovitzey, with tlie Upper
of the
Dnieper;
but,
dinary labour,
an insufficiency of water.
The Obole.
high water.
: ;
APPENDIX,
IT.
525
The OusHSTKA.
means of communication between the Dvina and the Lovata, falling into the Lake Ilmen, as a new track
by water from
TJ'lute Russia.
On
the execu-
Babinovitzei/y
the conveyance by water may be extended even to St. Petersburg, from Little Russia, &c.;
and the same track may open a water communication between the last-mentioned city and Riga
:
for this
purpose
it
was intended
shallow), from
this
its
was
to
point
of separation, or
common
the
;
reservoir to
F/askova,
the
River Pola,
at
village
and
but
it is
not decided
stored
is sufficiently
be
expected from
such as deserve
whatsoever.
Rivers in
Courland.
Most
526
APPENDIX,
hardly navigable;
quite dry.
full
N" II.
of Falls;
and
at times
The Irba,
considerable, has
is
its
source
but
town of
all
Goldingen,
passage.
Dukes,
Niemen was meditated, but these cataracts were found to be insuperable obstacles. The port of Vindaf is at its estuary; the
trade there
is
much
been
the
made more
Lib A,
is
convenient.
falls
an insignificant rivulet,
into
of considerable
trade.
Niemex.
The Niemen (the Memel of the Germans), one of the most interesting rivers of European Russia. By means of this river the most
lucrative trade
is
APPENDIX,
of
all
ir.
527
Lithuania,
will
on : become
Unfortunately, the
trade
ports,
thereon takes
greatly
to
its
course to foreign
of the
the
dis^advantage
native merchants.
estuary,
To Memel,
situate at its
quantity of timber,
mostly for
millions,
annually floated
as
some
flax,,
hemp,
Fredericsgrahen.
nication,
River Nevegia,
the
this
into
Lavenna,
lucrative
which flows
the Dvina,.
commerce would
revert
to
Riga,
who
fix
and pleasure;
and,
consequently,
own down
country.
Besides
the Nieinen,
from
hundred large barks frequent it annually, most of which return home with
six
528
APPENDIX, N n.
foreign merchandize.
some
centuries,
it
any
effectual
its
measures were
in the
improve
navigation.
Falls.
were attempted to be cleared but the work was carried on so unscientifically, as In general, the Niemen to produce no effect.
;
is
The
of towing-paths
is
now
the
chief object
for the
return of vessels,
inde-
pendent
of Kofno.
There
are
three
other
and
Stolbtzij.
Rivers belonging
to the
Niemen
Division of
Inland Navigation.
The Nova.
this river.
Only a
little
wood
is
floated
down
DuBiTZA.
is
not
Some barks frequent it, though it much larger than the Nova. It was
it
intended to join
at Goldingen,
APPENDIX, N"
ir.
529
is
Nevegia.
to
As
lower but
part
is
from
becomes so
must be had recourse to, if the projected junction of the Dvina and Niemen is to take place. Of this new track, mention was already
made, under the
article of the river Buldera.
annually,
rivulets
with provisions.
fall
The
it
;
and Simiana
into
through
floats of
these, in spring,
MERETZI]SrKA,tlieLEBEDINKA,andBERESINKA,
totally unfit for navigation
;
and even
if
ren-
dered
in
some degree
of
all
so,
the expense.
Sharra
gation.
is,
By means
will
communication
and,
be opened through
Pripit,
it,
communication established with the Baltic^ from the Ukraine^ Little Russia, Vulhynia, and
VOL.
I.
530
Podolia.
APPENDIX,
This work
is
N'
II.
ance
in its
consequences, as
till
now they
and which
inertness of character,
remarkable.
The junction
the
supply necessary
stores
on the
Dniester.
The Sharra
already,
;
in
some
to wit,
from the
From
improvement
the river
is
necessary
above the
canal,
absorbed
in the vast
morasses
of that country.
To
Western Bugg, or Bog, as Middlethe chief branch of the Upper Vistula. and by the siz.ed barks, conducted by Podolians,
gation belongs the
inhabitants of the Southern Galicia, go through
Bog to the Vistula, and thence where they sell their merchandize
the
profit,
to Dantzic, at a little
and
necessaries, viz.
their return
some
oil,
home.
is,
as this track
no
APPEXDrx,
IT.
531
this is carried
situate
in
Russia;
L'ltho,
viz.
Bengugh,
Brest,
and
Opa/in.
The customs
is,
Without doubt
but the question
to the Russian
difficult to
this traffic
may be improved
it is
Whether
it
advantageous
?
Crown and
to its subjects
is,
It is
prove that
as
all
the profits
remain with the Elbing and Dantzic merchants. The only advantage accruing to the native seller
is,
own
products;
The merdomestic
by barter
is
for
again forced to go to
same
manner as
before.
Bugg
or
lBoG,Jrom
the
Russian
side.
The MuciiAviTZA
Brest,
falls into
the
Boz
at Lithan
and
is
much
canal proposed to be
Stanislaus Augustus,
dug by the
late
King
one of
Dnieper
division),
with
the
Bog;
commu-
532
nication
APPENDIX,
N"
II.
would
or
be
opened between
and the
the
Dnieper,
If the
cation,
the
Black Sea,
Baltic.
Oginskij
by
the
Konigsburg and
or
the Kings
infinite
more
same convenient mode of conveyance would have been extended through the Vistula to Warsaw, and from thence to Elhing and Dantzic. This canal was already finished, and the upper parts of the Pina and
as the
but
it
then
wrong
principles
first,
sluices
were thought
made
of the
sage,
which
was
principally
it
through low
was supposed
but
it
was found,
the
rather
sources of the
branch
fall,
thereof,
of thirtyevident,
It
was
the
rather be
APPENDIX,
other use, as
spring
;
N" II.
533
it
by
is
this season, to
go up the
Pripit,
in
could never
return the
same track:
perfectly dry.
To make
abso-
necessary:
particularly
to
answer
END OF THE
FIRST VOLUME.
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CroiL'u Cuurl, I'ifnqili
Bar,
l-''ix:^*if^
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