Vertical Climbing Wall Plans

DISCLAIMER
THIS CLIMBING WALL GUIDE IS PRESENTED AS A SAMPLE PLAN ONLY. IT IS NOT INTENDED TO BE RELIED UPON AS YOUR SOLE SOURCE OF INFORMATION REGARDING ROCK CLIMBING WALL PLANS. THE WRITER OF THIS INDOOR CLIMBING WALL PLAN IS NOT AN ENGINEER, ARCHITECT, OR CARPENTER. THE KNOWLEDGE CONTAINED HEREIN IS BASED SOLELY UPON PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. Bouldering and climbing walls are very heavy. The structure that supports the wall must be strong enough to support the dead load (the weight of the climbing wall itself) and live loads (the climbers). The dead load alone will come to several hundred pounds. Live loads vary not only by the weight of the climbers, but also by the momentary forces caused by the climbing moves. These forces can be several times the weight of the climber. The support system, whether a pre-existing structure or one built specifically for the rock climbing wall, must be capable of supporting the maximum combined stresses. Consult an engineer, and be absolutely certain that your structure will support the loads that will be imposed on it. Warning: Climbing and training for climbing is inherently dangerous and carries with it a significant risk of personal injury or death. The writer of this guide does not recommend that anyone participate in any activity described or referenced within this website (threeballclimbing.com) unless they first obtain qualified professional and personal instruction, are knowledgeable about the risks involved, and are willing to personally assume all responsibility associated with those risks.

WHERE DO I BUILD?
The first thing to consider when building a climbing wall is the location. Where is the best place to build? Do you build indoor or outdoor, garage or living room, corner of the room or right in the middle? Should I build it indoor, or outdoor? An indoor climbing wall can be used year-round and will always be a comfortable temperature. You won't have to worry about the wood weathering in the rain and sun. You don't have to worry about rusty bolts, or buying stainless steel bolts. You won't have to tighten each hold every day due to loosening caused by temperature changes. This can become a real hassle, especially if you have a lot of holds. No one wants to spend the first 30 minutes of their session tightening bolts. Holds bolted to an outdoor wall are more likely to spin if you do not tighten them before each session.

This guide will provide sample plans to build an 8 x8 indoor rock climbing wall.

TOOLS NEEDED
* Electric Drill * Philips head drill bit * 7/16" Wood boring bit * 7/32" or 3/16 Drill bit * Power Miter Saw or hand held framing saw. The Miter saw is best, but the framing saw will work too. * Measuring tape at least 96 inches long. * Bubble Level at least 24 long. * Chalk line or 4- 8 foot straight edge * Framing pencil or marker * Electronic Stud finder * 3 Foot by 5 foot work table. Any table close to this size will do. The more space the better. * Ear plugs * Safety glasses

SUPPLIES NEEDED
Nominal size vs. actual size of building materials: The designated dimensions of lumber is not its' true size. Lumber is designated by its' nominal value, or the size of the lumber before it is planed down to its' finished size. be sure to use the actual size when you are planning your walls dimensions. For example, as you can see in the table below, a 2"x4" actually measures 1 1/2" by 3 1/2". For plywood, nominal size and actual size are the same.

NOMINAL SIZE
2"x4" 2"x6" 2"x8" 2"x10"

ACTUAL SIZE
1 1/2"x 3 1/2" 1 1/2"x 5 1/2" 1 1/2"x 7 1/2" 1 1/2"x 9 1/2"

* (2) - 4' x 8' x 3/4" sheets of plywood * (9) - 96" (96 inches long) 2"x4"s * (100) 3/8-16 T-nuts per 4x8 sheet of plywood. For a 8 x 8 wall youll need (200) T-nuts. * 2lb box of 3 1/2 inch black drywall screws (course thread) * 2lb box of 2" black drywall screws (course thread) (Self drilling #8 decking screws may be used instead of drywall screws. Self drilling decking screws are said to hold better and to be stronger, but in my experience drywall screws have performed quite well.) * One sheet 80 grit sandpaper (optional) * If you are using 4 prong t-nuts you'll also need One tube Barges All Purpose Cement. You need this to glue the t-nuts to the back of the wall. Any glue that bonds to both metal and wood will do. * Round Base t-nuts do not require glue. * You can get just about everything from Lowes Or Home Depot except for the t-nuts. Purchase T-nuts

Getting Started

The first thing you will want to do is read through this entire guide and consult an engineer to make sure your wall will be safe to climb on and that your existing structure is suited to supporting the climbing wall. The writer of this guide is not an engineer. When you are ready to get started, find the studs in the wall you have selected to use as the anchor for the climbing wall. Grab the stud finder and start sweeping it back and forth across the drywall until you find the studs. Mark the left edge, the right edge, and the center of each stud. You should find them running vertically about every 18 or 24 inches. Most stud finders can tell the difference between a wood stud and an electrical wire, so pay attention the the signals.

Take your time! Finding the center of the studs is important if you want your wall to be stable. Mark each stud at the base of the wall and about 4 feet up and 7 feet up. When you have marked 5 or more vertical running studs, measure the distance between the center of each stud. They should be somewhere between 18 and 24 inches apart. Using a chalk-line or straight edge to connect the center points of the studs you have marked. In this example we used a straight 2x4. Be careful with chalk. Most of it is permanent and there is NO KNOWN WAY TO REMOVE IT. Do not spill it on the carpet. If you do, DO NOT VACUUM IT UP! The vacuum will spread it and make it worse. Once youve got your straight edge or chalk line lined up with the center points, snap the line, or draw a line connecting the points.

Once youve got all your center points marked, grab one of your 96 studs and lay it on the floor at the base of the wall. Try to get it centered across the lines you have marked on the wall. If the stud extends past the left side by 3 inches, it should also extend past the right side by 3 inches.

Mark the stud at each point where the the lines on the wall meet the stud. Before you move the stud, right an R on the right side of it, and an L on the left side. This will help you line it up again when you come back after drilling, or if you get interrupted. Now use your drill and 3/16 drill bit to drill two holes at each point you have marked. These holes should line up with the marks you have drawn on the wall. After the holes are drilled, bring the stud back to the wall and match the lines on the wall with the marks on the stud. This stud will become your first anchor stud. Grab your bubble level, your drill, the #2 philips drill bit and one 3 1/2 screw for each hole.

Place your bubble level on top of the stud as shown above. Lift one end of the stud until the bubble is centered between the two lines. Most floors are not perfectly level. If you had to lift the left side of the stud to get it level, the left side is the low side. Once you determine which is the high side grab your drill and phillips drill bit and put one 3 1/2 screw through one of the pre-drilled holes in the stud and into your wall on the high side of the stud. Now go back to the low side and lift the stud until it is level again. When youve got it just right, drive a screw into this side. If youve got it level, the rest will be easy! Once its level, fasten the stud to the wall using your 3 1/2 screws, and the remaining predrilled holes. If a screw never stops spinning, or the stud doesn't get pulled tight against the wall, then you have probably missed the stud. These screws absolutely must be anchored in the studs.

Once the first anchor stud is in place, grab your 8ft straight edge, or the straightest 2x4 you have and place it next to the anchor stud as shown in the picture below. Use the bubble level to make sure it is level, and mark where the inside edge of the stud meets the wall. This line will serve as a guide to help you line up the remaining anchor studs.

Next put down the stud and level for a minute. The quickest way to put in the remaining studs is by using spacers. Grab one of your studs and the measuring tape. Mark this piece at 14 1/2. Youll need two of these at exactly the same length. In this example we used a miter saw and stopper to cut both pieces at the same length.

If youre second piece is a little longer or a little shorter, try to cut a 3rd piece.

Grab the two pieces that are the closest to each other in length and set them on the ends of the anchor stud you have fastened to the wall. Next grab your level and a 8 stud. Set the stud on the spacers and line up the edge of it with the guide-line you just made on the wall.

Find the lines on the wall that mark the center of the studs, and Mark points on the stud that match up with them just like you did with the first anchor stud. Drill two holes with the 3/16 drill but at each point just like you did before.

Put the stud back in place sitting on top the spacers, and make sure the edge of it is lined up with the guideline. Put the level on top the stud and make sure it is right. If it is level go ahead and fasten the stud to the wall using the 3 1/2 screws. If it is not level, put one screw in the high side, and lift the low side until it is level. Once it is level, put a screw in the low side to hold it in place and drive in the rest of the screws. Now you pull out the spacers and repeat this process until all your anchor studs are in place! When you are done, Your wall should look something like this:

If you are using 4x8 or 4x4 panels, grab one and set it against the anchor studs. Mark the wall at the same height as the top edge of the panel.

Once youve got that line marked all the way across, grab a stud, mark it, drill your holes and fasten it to the wall right over this line. This stud will help keep your panels from overlapping when you put them up.

Now it is time to mark the plywood so you can drill your anchor points in the right places.. You will need your measuring tape, a pencil and your chalk line or straight edge. We usually space them 7 inches across and 7 inches up. A 7" x
1. Starting from the top left pull your measuring tape all the way across the plywood the long way to the bottom. Mark the first point at 3 inches. Next add 7" for the rest of the marks. Mark at 10", then 17" etc. Keep going until you've marked the entire length.

2. Next start from the top right and pull the tape down to the bottom right. Repeat the same markings. 3", 10", 17", 24" etc.

Now Grab your Chalk Line or straight edge...

3. Next connect the dots with a line. You'll need your chalk-line or a straight edge. Draw a line from the left 3" mark across to right 3" mark. Repeat this step for each pair of marks going across the top and bottom of the plywood. Once you've got all your horizontal lines drawn you can start on the vertical lines.

Once your horizontal lines are drawn your sheet should look something like this:

Next measure from the top right to the top left and mark it 3, 7, 10, 14 etc. Measure from the bottom right to the bottom left and mark it 3, 7, 10, 14 etc.

Now match up and mark your vertical lines just like you did with the horizontal lines.

You can repeat this procedure for marking additional sheets of plywood. If you prefer, you can place the marked sheet exactly over the second sheet, and drive in a couple screws to keep them perfectly lined up before you start drilling holes. Once youve got your grid finished, and your panels are stacked up and screwed together, grab your 7/16 wood boring bit and start drilling holes! Drill one hole at each point where the lines intersect. Do your best to keep the drill perpendicular to the wood. In addition, be careful not to push too hard. You want the bit to cut through the wood, not break through.

You are getting close now! If you want to paint, now is the time to do it! Once all the holes are drilled, and your paint is dry, grab your t-nuts. For this wall we used round base t-nuts since they are so much easier to install, and more secure. If you are using 4 prong t-nuts, check out our installation instructions online here: Install 4 prong t-nuts

Push the t-nuts into the holes you have drilled. Dont worry if they dont go all the way down right away.

Once you get them all lined up, grab a hammer and lightly tap them into place.

Now all you have to do is fasten all the screws in all the t-nuts. Make sure you put screws in all 3 holes. If you skip a hole it will prevent the t-nut from sitting perpendicular to the wall and will make it difficult to fasten climbing holds in the future.

T-nuts finished!

I dont know about you, but I get pretty excited when I get to this point! Take your first panel over to the anchor studs and line up the high side with the edge of the panel. Now take your 3/16 drill bit and drill one hole in each of the top corners of the panel. These holes should be about 3/4 of an inch down from the top edge of the panel. Do not drill through the anchor stud, just drill through the plywood.

Replace the 3/16 bit with the philips bit and fasten the plywood to the anchor stud on the high side with a 2 screw. Next grab the level and place it on top of the plywood. Lift the low side until the top of the panel is level. When it is level, fasten what was the low side to the anchor stud.

Place your second panel next to the first. Now take your 3/16 drill bit and drill one hole in each of the top corners of the panel. Replace the 3/16 bit with the philips bit. Next grab the level and place it on top of the plywood. Lift the low side until the top of the panel is level. Make sure that the two panels are the same height when you push them together. Also, make sure that there is no space between the two panels. When it is level, fasten the top corners to the anchor stud. Pre-drill and fasten 3 more screws along the top edge of the panels. Make sure the screws go into the middle of the bottom half of the anchor stud.

Rest the stud on the screws, pre-drill your holes using the 3/16 drill bit. Dont drill into the anchor stud, just through the plywood. You want to have a total of 10 holes for this first anchor stud going across the two four foot panels. One near the edge on each side, and 3 in the middle of each panel. When youve got these ten holes drilled for the first anchor stud, move up to the the next one. Rest the stud across the next set of 3 1/2 screws and repeat the process. When youve got these first to panels pre-drilled, go ahead and fasten the panels to the anchor studs using the 2 screws. Remove the 3 1/2 screws that you were resting the straight edge stud on and replace them with 2 screws. Screw them all the way in just like the rest of the screws. Now you can grab your third 4x4 panel or your 2nd 4 x 8 panel, put it on top of your first panel and repeat the entire process.

The 3rd and 4th panels should be much easier. Since you already made sure the first two were level, all you have to do is set them on top, and make sure the edges line up properly. When youve got everything screwed in nice and tight, your wall should look something like this:

Now its time to fasten your climbing holds! We just fastened a few as an example. For young children we recommend installing at least one hold per square foot: For an 8x8 wall youll need about 64 climbing holds.

If you will be bouldering, one hold per square foot is a good start, but youll probably want to add new holds on a regular basis. Check out our Monthly Grips program for a constant supply of new grips!

In addition to providing climbing holds and hardware, Three Ball Climbing also supplies 4 x 4 x 3/4 indoor climbing wall panels. Wall panels come in two different textures, and in two different colors. Our Basic panel has two coats of paint in either Granite Gray or Sedona Red. It also features 49 pre-installed Round Base T-nuts. Our Textured panel has a fine grain sandstone texture and comes in Granite Gray, or Sedona Red. It also features 49 pre-installed Round Base T-nuts. Call or email Steve for more info: 480-334-4646 - threeballclimbing@yahoo.com

Three Ball Climbing LLC.

1930 E. 3rd St. Ste 8 Tempe, AZ 85281
480-334-4646 threeballclimbing@yahoo.com