BONDING MATERIALS TO CONCRETE

oday it is possible to bond any material, including concrete itself, firmly and permanently to a hardened concrete surface. Such bonding using epoxy-based glues, becomes as strong, and frequently s t ro n g e r, than can be achieved by any mechanical means of connection. These glues or bonding agents are made up of two liquidsa base resin and a curing agent (or hardener) which are mixed immediately prior to use. It is most important that the resin and hardener be thoroughly mixed if the full properties of the material are to be achieved. At the site, the mixing should be done preferably by means of an electric drill fitted with paddles or in a disposable container by hand. The cans in which the components arrive should be opened properly with a can-opener to remove the lip rather than simply punching a hole and leaving a ridge behind which material could be trapped and wasted. Similarly a spatula should be used to scrape out all material so that the proportions are exact. Only sufficient material should be mixed as can be used comfortably within the pot life quoted by the manufacturer. For most jobs this will effectively avoid the mixing of too large a batch with the consequent danger of curing before it can be used. Here again, however, the manufacturers instructions must be followed. The pot life of the standard formulations available for normal bonding tasks varies from 15 minutes to 2 to 3 hours. This is influenced by temperature so that the manufacturers figure usually refers to performance at 70 _ 5F. With some systems it may even be necessary to keep the mixture heated to obtain good results at temperatures below 60F.

Surface preparation
Probably the biggest factor in en-

suring a successful job lies in properly preparing the surface to be joined. Surfaces should be prepared be degreasing plus mechanical and/or chemical treatment. However, the concrete surface itself must be sound and strong. All loose material should be chipped away, and removed by blowing off with compressed air, hosing with water, brushing, or brooming. All other surfaces must be precleaned to remove any foreign matter detrimental to a good bond, and mechanical abrasion has been found to be preferable to chemical etching. There are two main objections to the use of chemical techniques; first, they require special safety measures, and secondly it is important not to over-etch so that the bond of particles of aggregates is affected. Thorough neutralization, which means an extra stage in the process, is necessary to guard against over-etching of the surface and to prevent continuing attack. Sand- or shot-blasting is probably the best mechanical method of cleaning, but a comparable alternative is permissible provided that is does not tend to polish the surface. Sand blasting to a depth of 1/16 inch is normally adequate. Mechanical scarification to a depth of 1/8 inch followed by dust removal would be a close equivalent to this treatment. If chemical pretreatment of concrete is considered desirable, the first step must be to remove any oil or grease that may be present. A strong commercial detergent wash scrubbed vigorously into the surface with a brush or power broom is the best method for degreasing. If the contamination is known to be caused by animal fats, scrubbing with a 10 percent caustic soda solution to saponify them may prove easier than using a detergent, although caustic soda is dangerous. Very heavy deposits of grease or dirt

should always be scraped or wirebrushed first to remove as much excess material as possible. The final stage of degreasing must always be a thorough rinsing. A surface can also be etched for bonding by applying a solution of one part muriatic acid to four parts water at a rate of one quart per square yard. These proportions can be increased if desired, but care should be taken to avoid excessive penetration of the surface. Protective clothing is a must. Before the bonding agent is applied, the surface should be rinsed and allowed to dry.

Pretreating metal surfaces

The surface of some metals to be bonded to a concrete surface must be pretreated to both degrease and to abrade the surface, either mechanically or chemically. Occasionally slight abrasion is necessary to ensure a roughened surface, and since mechanical abrasion treatments will invariably re-introduce a certain amount of grease, a further degreasing immediately prior to bonding is recommended. This second degreasing can be avoided if chemical etching follows the first degreasing, although the bonding agent should then be applied to the surface immediately. Most metal surfaces can be degreased by wiping with a clean rag dipped lightly in tri- or perchloroethylene. The surface should then be allowed to stand for a few minutes to permit complete evaporation. The rag must not be soaked in the solvent because a soaked rag will merely dissolve the grease, not absorb it. Both solvents are toxic and should only be used while wearing gloves in well-ventilated areas. Some metals will require further special treatment if an effective bond is to be ensured. These treatments are detailed in the following summary:

BONDING METAL
Aluminum and its alloys Degrease, chromic acid etch, rinse and dry. The chromic acid etch should consist of, by weight, one part sodium dichromate, 10 parts concentrated sulfuric acid and 30 parts distilled water. The sodium dichromate is first dissolved in the water and the acid than added last. The etch should be used at a temperature of 150F. and kept in contact with the metal surface for 10 minutes. Degrease, abrade, degrease. For intricate surfaces, or where degreasing or mechanical abrasion may otherwise be difficult, chemical etching is possible using a solution of 25 parts ammonium persulfate in 75 parts distilled water at room temperature. The technique is comparatively simple, since it requires exposure for only 30 seconds followed by rinsing in distilled water and drying. As for brass As for brass Degrease, abrade, degrease. Degrease, abrade and degrease, or alternatively etch with a 50 : 50 concentrated hydrochloric acid/distilled water solution for one to five minutes, followed by rinsing and drying. Degrease, abrade, degrease Degrease, abrade, degrease. For bonding to concrete surfaces, this treatment will normally be adequate. A chemical etch is possible but involves dipping in two different solutions at fairly high temperatures with intermediate rinsing and oven drying. Should the nature of the alloy or of the attachment make chemical treatment necessary, it is recommended that the services of a specialist metal-plating company, having the proper tank, heating and handling facilities, be sought. Degrease, abrade, degrease. Alternatively degrease and etch in concentrated nitric acid at room temperature for 5 seconds, rinse and dry. Degrease, abrade, degrease, Alternatively etch with a 50 : 50 phosphoric acid (concentrated ortho)/ethyl alcohol solution, after degreasing, for 10 minutes at 140F. Thorough rinsing with a stiff brushing is necessary to remove the black deposit resulting from the reaction. The item must be dried thoroughly for one hour at 250F. Degrease in the normal manner, abrade with a non-metallic medium (for example, alumina-grit paper), and degrease again followed by a 10-minute dip in a hot (160 - 180 degree F.) alkaline detergent solution. Rinse. Oven dry at 200F. Where stainless steel fittings have to be bonded to concrete, it is advisable to consult the supplier of the bonding agent with regard to the pretreatment needed. Most suppliers will recommend a proprietary type of alkaline detergent for the final cleaning, or alternatively can give the recipe for a cheaper, simple mixture suitable for site use. Degrease, abrade, degrease. As for stainless steel Degrease, abrade, degrease, or alternatively etch with a 20 : 80 concentrated hydrochloric acid/distilled water solution after degreasing, followed by thorough rinsing and oven drying for 20 to 30 minutes at 150 to 160F .

Brass and its alloys

Bronze and its alloys Copper and its alloys Cast iron Chromium

Lead Magnesium and its alloys

Nickel Steel and ferrous alloys (except stainless steel)

Stainless steel

Tin Titanium and its alloys Zinc, its alloys and galvanized metals

Bonding the plastics

Architects are showing an increasing tendency to use plastics, whether in the processed or raw state, for decorative purposes on concrete surfaces. The trend is fostered by both the greater attractiveness and extreme durability of these man-made materials. But plastics pose a problem since the bonding agents are also synthetic materials and thus some part of the chemical component of the one can have an adverse effect on a component of

the other. It is most important then that the solvent for degreasing be carefully selected. Many plastics may be coated with wax for improved appearance or may still show traces of the mold-release agent used during their manufacture. These substances must be removed either with a solvent or detergent solution. A medium-grit emery paper can be used for abrasion and this treatment may also be sufficient to remove a mold-release agent.

Plastics are often difficult to identify, either because they are known by a trade name or because of the complex chemical terminology needed to designate their polymerized state. In the instructions which follow an attempt has been made to use the common names (not the trade names) of the plastics used by the construction industry. If there is any doubt as to the nature of the plastic, consult the supplier of the bonding agent:

BONDING PLASTIC
Cellulosic plastics (for example, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate-butyrate, cellulose nitrate, and ethyl cellulose) Crystallized resins (epoxy, furane, phenolic, polyester, polyurethane) Foamed (expanded) plastics Formaldehyde plastics (for example, Melamine, Formica) Glass-reinforced plastics or laminates Neoprene Nylon Polycarbonate, polymethymethacrylate (acrylic plastics) polystyrene Polyethylene, polypropylene Degrease with methyl alcohol, abrade and degrease. Warm for an hour at 200F. and apply the bonding agent while the plastic is still warm. Degrease with acetone or MEK, abrade and degrease. Roughen with emery paper if smooth, remove dust. Degrease with acetone or MEK, abrade and degrease. As for crystallized resins. As for rubber Degrease with acetone or MEK, abrade, degrease. Degrease with methyl alcohol, abrade and degrease.

These common plastics are both commercially available in a bondable form, which is by far the most preferable state in which to buy them. Otherwise a surface can be prepared for bonding at the site by passing the oxidizing flame of a torch over it lightly or momentarily subjecting it to a blast of hot air. Great care is, however, necessary to avoid overheating the article to the point where it begins to melt or lose its shape. The alternative method of pretreatment is to degrease the surface with acetone or MEK, and then to etch it for 60 to 90 minutes at room temperature with a chromic acid solution made up of 15 parts sodium dichromate, 24 parts distilled water and 300 parts of concentrated sulfuric acid. The plastic should finally be rinsed thoroughly in distilled water and air dried. Rigid PVC should be degreased with trichloroethylene, abraded and degreased again. Flexible PVC is not suitable for bonding to concrete with an epoxy-resin agent. Chemical pretreatment of this plastic is possible but it is difficult and dangerous because it involves the use of sodium metal. For site working, therefore, these plastics should always be purchased in a commercially bondable form.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

Polytetrafluorethylene (PTFE, often known as Teflon)

Attaching non-metals
The non-metallic materials used by the construction industry require individual, though often minor, surface treatment before they can be

bonded successfully to concrete. The following listing summarized the techniques needed for the commonest materials. While some of these may appear unusual, leather

for example, their attachment to a concrete surface to obtain some special architectural effect, is not unknown:

BONDING NON-METALS
Asbestos board If contaminated with oil, degrease with a clean rag and acetone or the solvent MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Abrade, remove dust and degrease again. Allow the board to stand for a few minutes to ensure that all the solvent has evaporated. Degrease if necessary, wire brush to abrade, remove dust. Degrease, abrade, degrease. Degrease. Frost lightly with a fine grit blast or abrade with a slurry of carborundum powder and water. Degrease and dry at 210F. for 30 minutes. The bonding agent should be applied preferably while the glass is still warm for optimum strength. Should mechanical abrasion prove difficult, it is possible to etch the surface, after very thorough degreasing with a 1 : 4 chromium trioxide/distilled water solution. Degrease, roughen with sandpaper and degrease. Degrease with methyl alcohol, etch with concentrated sulfuric acid for 5 to 10 minutes at room temperature, rinse thoroughly, neutralize any residual acid with a 10 to 20 percent ammonium hydroxide solution for 5 to 10 minutes at room temperature, rinse thoroughly and dry. The aim of the treatment (known as cylizing) is to obtain a thin, finely cracked, brittle layer when the rubber is flexed, which will give a good key for the liquid bonding agent. If the surface is large and unmanageable, the acid can be made into a brushable paste by blending it with barium sulfate. Safety precautions must naturally be adequate. In general the same treatment can be used for both synthetic and natural rubbers, although a longer exposure may be needed for the former. Should a synthetic rubber be of an acid-resistant grade, sufficient abrasion can normally still be achieved with concentrated nitric acid. Dry surface thoroughly, wire brush, remove dust. Do not use contaminated or unsound material. Must be thoroughly dry. Abrade with fine sand paper. compound should usually not be applied when field temperatures are below 60 or above 95F. At higher temperatures the pot life may shorten to the point where the batch is no longer usable, and at lower temperatures, a system designed to cure in hours may take days. Similarly, work should stop in wet weather since the chemical system of a bonding agent is normally designed to react only under dry conditions. To recapitulate, then, three factors will influence the end properties of a bonded joint: (1) correct choice of resin grade and hardener; (2) proper surface preparation; and (3) careful application. The epoxybased compounds will have high strength at a very early age and extreme chemical resistance, which means that a bonded joint will remain unaffected by environmental contamination. The strength of a bonding joint if made properly will always far exceed that of even the best quality concrete. The flexural strength of concrete, for example,

Brick and other non-glazed masonry Ceramics Glass

Leather Rubber

Stone work, natural rocks Wood

Application procedure
Theoretically, a bonding agent may be applied by brush, roller, spray, trowel, screed or squeegee. Brushing has generally proved best because any dust left on the surface is then worked up into the agent where it simply becomes an inert filler. If a spray is used, however, the dust may form an intermediate bond-breaking layer. For many jobs a combination of application methods might prove more economical. An epoxy-resin-based bonding

will lie in the 600 to 800 psi range; a typical cured resin, on the other hand, will show a cross-breaking strength around 5,800 psi, which means that any breakage will occur through the surrounding concrete (or through the attachment if this is weaker) rather than through the joint. It also means, however, that a contractor should not expect too much from a bonding agentremember that if a resin with a tensile strength of 2,000 psi is used to join two concrete slabs each having a tensile strength of 300 psi, the effective strength of the bonded unit is still only 300 psi. When dealing with epoxy bonding, howe ve r, keep in mind that it is advantageous to consult the manufacturers technical representatives before beginning a job.

PUBLICATION #C660387
Copyright 1966, The Aberdeen Group All rights reserved