Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
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.6 Cotton
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Denim
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. . . ....68. .
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7R
equired per day
(kg) 8763
14235Speed
70000
750004.812.7Inst
alled Efficiency
90 90waste 0.2
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0.216.401required
8763
142358683.62240
/month in tonnes
263 427n% 70
70/day 3788
3788Delivered 0
0Required per
day 8789
142921waste 0.6
0.6required 2.32
3.77dia/ inch 27
27rpm 51 51effe.
85% 85%waste
5% 5%delivered
0.1 0.1draft 2 2in
kg 43 43daykg
1036
1036required
8842
14378required
8.53
13.879010800req
uired/day 9308
9308required 0.86
1.47700_____________
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impr
ove durability
thus eliminating
routine
maintenance.
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Drive Rolls
are____________________
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with some
sodium______________
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__6y____________________
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C and
oxidised with
sodium______________
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C,
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DyeingOr
Sheet
DyeingDyeing____
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TIMING_____
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of
Hydrosulphite_____
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al HCl ( 0.1
HCl) to pH 7.0
(ml =
______
A)_____________________
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_ _______________________
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depth of
shade is achieved
____________
Depth of shade is
not goodoxidation
time is greater for
fixation The
immersion and
oxidation times
areopening is
avoided Warp
sheet
entanglement is a
danger_______________
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weaveweaveW
eave__________________
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H
ATTLESH
ATTLEL E S S ___________
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looms 86
looms________________
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singeing After
singeing_____________
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Width
103" /
2600mmWidth
108" /
2800mm____________
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e.______________________
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rtment
5_______________________
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________________
used
for marking
purposes and for
very particular
fastenings,
suchthe thread;
use No. 40 or 50
with a 5 or 6
needle.of the
work, passing the
needle through
the material orfor
very much the
same purpose as
even basting,
except________________
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as
you did for even
basting, but
instead of taking a
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CAUSTIC01
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___________ vi,
sQty
(pcs): 140Weight
(kg):
110kgCCkgCCC_____
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C
and 35 C for at
least 24 months.
Once containers
have been
opened, theC
_________________
(LVT, sp. 1,
50min1)C.___________________
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________________
CCC
C______________________
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CCB)
CC____________________
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C to
40CC may
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g/cm3________________
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Process:RAN
GES 60 deg.C
5.0; best at 4.8to
60
minutesRANGES
55C; best at
52C 5.0; best at
4.8to 60
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minutes______________
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m
ethodmethod/l (
for spray
finish)________________
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(tables, ironing
boards)used to
create a 3D
effect.________________
__
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This
method is very
simple and
environmentally
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friendly because
after
laundering,_________
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from a doubledyeing
technique___________
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a water free
process therefore
zero effluent
discharge.___________
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PROJECT REPORT
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PRESTON UNIVERSITY
139
GLOSIER
Y OF
DENIM
Abrasion
The process of
making garments
Acid Wash
The finish that gives
indigo jeans sharp
contrasts by
soakingpumice
stonesin chlorine
andletting the stones
create the contrast.
Bartak
Stitching that
reinforces places on
jeans such as flies
and pocket openings.
Bleach
A chemical used to
make denim fade.
Carding
The process in which
raw cotton is
separated and
cleaned to make a
sliver.
Cotton
quality of cottonis
determined by the
length of fibres; the
longer the fibres, the
higher the quality.
Crocking
A term used to
describe how dye
Crosshatch
Mixing uneven yarns
in both the weft and
warped directions to
create a unique type
ofdenim that shows a
square grid-like
pattern in the weave.
Defoliant
A chemical that
causes plants' leaves
to drop off earlier,
used to speed up the
harvestingprocess of
cotton.
Denim
The word denim is
believed to be a
derivative of the
French term, serge
deNmes, a
ruggedcotton twill te
xtile, in which
theweftpasses under
two or
morewarpfibers,
producing the
familiar diagonal
ribbing identifiable
on the reverse of the
fabric distinguishing
denim fromcotton
duck.
Dips
What fabric or yarn
are called when
dipped in dye.
Double Needle
A common seam on
jeans where two
stitches run parallel
to each other
forreinforcement.
yarn. Itcreates a
much softer and
textured hand than
regular (single) ringspun denim.
Enzymes
Proteins that speed
up chemical
processes. They are
used in textile
processing, mainly in
thefinishing of
fabrics and garments.
Enzyme Wash
A more
environmentally
sound way to create a
stone wash, organic
proteins are used
toeat away at
theindigo.
Finishing
The overall processes
performed on a
garment giving it its
unique look.
Ginning
The process in which
seeds are removed
from pickedcotton.
PROJECT REPORT
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PRESTON UNIVERSITY
140
Hand
The term used to
describe how denim
feels.
Indigo
A blue dye obtained
from indigo plants.
The chemical
structure was
synthetically
produced in1987.
Indigo's inherent
features are good
colorfastness to
Jean
Possibly derived
from the French
work "genes", it was
Laundry
A facility that takes
unwashed jeans and
processes them;
i.e.stone wash,
sandblasting,finishin
g, etc. It is essential
in creating
commercial denim
and has become as
important as
fabricdevelopment.
Laser technology,
initially used by the
military, has
developed
dramatically in the
last few years as
atextile treatment
with laser finishes.
Used with automated
Tonello machines,
lasers can be
directedvertically or
horizontally and used
to create both
specific detailing or a
textured all-over
effect. Thefrequency
of the laser is set to
erode the indigo
surface in order to
either alter the color
or burn through
thecloth. Laser
treatments are used
exclusively in the
upper end of the
denim market and
are considered amore
environmentally
acceptable process
than the traditional
methods of finishing.
Left-Hand Twill
A weave in which
the grain lines run
from the top lefthand corner of the
fabric towardsthe
bottom right. Usually
in piece-dyed fabrics,
left-hand twill fabrics
are woven from
single piled yarns
Loop Dyed
One of three major
industrial methods of
dyeingindigoyarn.
Open-End
Spinning
Aspinningprocess in
which individual
fibers are fed into a
high-speed
rotorshaped like a
cup where they begin
to accumulate. The
yarns produced using
Overdye
A dying process in
which additional
color is applied to
create a different
shade or cast on
thegarment.
Oxidation
In denim
manufacturing,
when
indigo
oxygen,penetrating
the fibre.
Padazoic
A dye used in the
late 1960's - early
1970's in place
ofindigo, which was
in short supply
andhigh demand.
Pigment Dyes
Dye that lack the
ability to grab onto
the fibers and must
be held to the fabric
with resins.
Pima Cotton
Originally grown in
the 1900's in Peru,
Pima Cotton is
particular type of
cotton.
Polyurethane
Provides a chemical
resistance in the
washing and dyeing
process in order to
achievethe desired
denim wash/ color. It
is the basis of a novel
type of elastomeric
fiber known
generically
asspandex. It is a
man-made fiber
(segmented
polyurethane) able to
stretch at least 100%
and snap back
likenatural rubber.
Pumice Stone
Lightweight and
strong, this stone is
used in the process
ofstonewashingapparel.
Ring Dyeing
Describes a quality
unique toindigodye
in which only the
PRESTON UNIVERSITY
141
Ring Spinning
The process that
creates unique
surface
characteristics in a
garment by
feedingindividual
River Washing
theenzymes and
tumbled together to
give denim a vintage,
worn hand.
Rivet
A metal accessory
that is used for
reinforcement of
stress points as well
as
nonfunctionalorname
ntation.
Sanding
Process that makes
the surface of a
garment soft by
rubbing aggressively
with papercontaining
small loose grains of
worn rock.
Sanforization
:
A process which
shrinks and stabilizes
cloth before it is cut.
Sanforization was
inventedby Sanford
L. Cluett and
patented in 1928.
Most denim
companies followed
suit, apart from Levi
who stillproduced
shrink to fit denim
for three decades
following.
of the
bestcottonfibres.
Selvage
The edge of a fabric
that is woven so that
it will not fray or
ravel. Old 28 to 30
inch shuttle
loomsproduce denim
where selvages are
closed, whereas on
the larger modern
weaving machines
the weft yarnis cut on
every pick, creating
what is called a
fringe selvage.
Slasher Dyeing
Spinning
A process used to
create yarn or thread
where short fibres
are twisted together.
These yarnswill be
used to weave into
cloth or used in
sewing. Longer
fibres like silk are
not spun.
Spraying &
Staining
:
Spraying color can
be added at various
stages in the
finishing cycle,
either byhand or by
automated robot. The
effect adds to the
aged look of a
garment by
introducting stained
areas,color contrast
or blotched tints.
Stone Washing
Process that
physically removes
color and adds
contrast using
pumice stones.
Sulphur Bottoms
:
Many manufacturers
apply a sulphur dye
before the customary
indigo dye. This
isknown as Sulphur
Bottom Dyeing. It
can be used to create
a grey or yellow
vintage cast.
Warp
Weft
The un-dyed
crosswise filling
yarns used in denim
weave.
Weight
: Denim is
traditionally graded
by its weight per
yard of fabric at a
29-inch width. Early
jeans werenineounce Levis,
increasing to 10ounce in 1927. Lee
Cowboy Pants were
introduced in the
much heavier13ounce weight, and
most modern jeans
are now 14 ounces.
Whiskering
Term used to
describe a denim
that has a fading
of the ridges in
creases inthe
crotch area and
back of the knees
giving the
appearance of
aged denim.
denim washing
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TYPES OF DENIM
YARN MANUFACTURING
WARPING PLAN
SULPHUR DYES:
DENIM DYEING:ROPE DYEING:
WEAVERS BEAM:AIR-JET WEAVING:
SANFORIZING
20 p.
84 p.
4 p.
2.
14 p.
10 p.
30 p.
3.
3 p.
51 p.
51 p.
4.
51 p.
14 p.
90 p.
5.
20 p.
110 p.
6 p.
6.
49 p.
2 p.
60 p.
7.
60 p.
60 p.
579 p.
8.
8 p.
11 p.
48 p.
9.
1 p.
1 p.
1 p.
10.
85 p.
38 p.
1 p.
11.
6 p.
4 p.
16 p.
12.
47 p.
115 p.
1 p.
13.
2 p.
1 p.
1 p.
14.
3 p.
2 p.
14 p.
15.
47 p.
105 p.
22 p.
46 p.
2.
39 p.
147 p.
141 p.
3.
3 p.
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moosaar123left a comment
moosaar@gmail.com
05 / 25 / 2010
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Tasleem left a comment
Very good project
04 / 09 / 2010
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springstarleft a comment
thanx:)
03 / 31 / 2010
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