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Rippled Cosmetic Bag

Designed by Julie A. Bolduc This rippled cosmetic bag if fun and fast to make. It can be used for more than just cosmetics and can be made with more than just cotton yarn. This is my first attempt at trying to design something with a ripple design. Click Here for a Text Version Materials Needed: 1 ball cotton worsted weight yarn Size H or 8 aluminum crochet hook. 1 yard 3/8" wide satin ribbon of desired color Gauge: 4sc=1" Yarn Thickness: 3mm Finished Size: 6"x5" Skill Level: Beginner Click here to see closeup of bottom. Instructions RND 1: Leaving an 18" end (this will be used to sew up the bottom), ch66. Join w/slst to first ch to form big ring! :) RND 2: Ch1, *sc in each of the next 4 chs. 3sc in next ch. Sc in each of the next 4 chs. Sk next 2 chs. Rep from * around. When you get to the end, it may look like you have 3 or 4 sts left. That is ok. What you have is the last two sts un done, then the joining slst and the ch1. So what you want to do is sk2 chs, then the slst and the ch1 and then slst in the first sc. This is the way it will be from here throughout. RND 3: Ch1. *Sc in each of the next 4 sc. 3sc in next sc (which is actually the 2nd sc in the stitch that you did 3 sc in on the previous rnd). Sc in each of the next 4 sc. Sk next 2 sc. Rep from * around. Join w/slst to first sc. RND 4-19: Rep RND 3. At the end of rnd 19, fasten off and weave the finishing all end into work. Use the starting end to sew up the bottom closed. Sew up the bottom closed using an over ahand stitch. Line up one point to the next point wrong sides facing and sew closed. You will need to weave yarn back to the point to sew up each point to the next one. Geeze I hope you undersand this. Once you have all of the edges sewn up, you will end up with a hole that may be big enough to put your finger through. Weave the yarn around this hole to draw it up so that the hole is smaller but do not make it so small that the bottom starts to pucker. You will covering it with the base. Base Circle RND 1: Ch2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join w/slst to first sc. RND 2: Ch1, work 2 sc in each of the 6 sts around. Join. RND 3: Ch1. *Sc in next st. 2sc in next st. Rep from * around. Join.

RND 4: Ch1. *Sc in each of the next 2 sts. 2sc in next st. Rep from * around. Join. Fasten off leaving along end about 18" Sew the base to the bottom covering the hole in the center. Here is a tip: Place the bag over a canning jar bottom to give yourself a firm surface to work on. I did this and it worked great! Ive been making earflap hats for the kids, in anticipation of our trip to the snow this winter. It will be their first time seeing snow, so they are very excited. Here is the pattern Ive made up {although this one is in an adult size}. Just reduce the number of trebles in row 1 to make a smaller one. NB: Ive had so many questions about sizing, so Ill attempt to explain. the pattern is basically the same for different sizes, you just need to decrease the number of chains in the first row (ie, this pattern says 18 total for an adult, so maybe try 12 15 total for a kid). For a tiny baby, even less chains. The following rows will obviously adjust in numbers as you go along. Sometimes this means that youll have to fudge it here and there on a row ie, add an extra tr to finish the row, or have one less than you though but as long as youre still increasing the number of stitches, you should be alright. You will quickly be able to see if your hat is going to fit, after the initial, say, 5 rows have formed the crown. You can always undo it, which is the beauty of crochet! The sizing will also depend on the type of yarn you use, and YOUR crochet style whether you are a loose or tight crocheter. Hope this helps a bit. Ive used a 5.5 mm crochet hook, and one-and-a-bit balls of a lovely, grey Moda Vera Chantilly yarn. To get started, chain 4 then join with a slip stitch to form a circle. In your first row; chain (ch) 2 - this always counts as your first double crochet (dc) in your row. Then crochet 17 dc directly into the centre of the circle. Slip stitch (sl st) to join the circle. You should have 18 dc in total. slip stitch into top of first chain to join. In your second row; ch2 again, then work your first dc into the base of your ch2. Now *dc, 2dc* 8 times around the circle, then sl st to join. You should now have 26 dc in total. For row three; ch2, 1dc into the base of your ch2. Now *dc, dc, 2dc* around the circle 8 times, then sl st to join. Youll have 34 dc in total now. In row four; ch2 to start, followed by another dc worked into the base of your first ch2. As in row 3, work *dc, dc, 2dc* around the circle 10 times this time. Then 2dc to finish the circle and a sl st to join. Youll now have 44 dc in total. five rows completed For row five; ch2 then work another dc into the base of the ch2. Now *dc, dc, 2dc* around the circle 14 times 58 dc in total then sl st to join. Rows six - twelve; ch2 then dcs for the entire row, sl st to join. You should have 58dc in total. As you work these rows through, your hat will start to bend and shape more. Your basic hat is now complete! To add on the flaps Crocheting the first Flap Row 1; chain 2 (counts as first dc), then another dc worked into the base of first chain 2.

Next, crochet 10 dc (for a total of 12 dc). Turn work over so youre now on the wrong side). the first row of your earflap sl st into first chain (drawing yarn straight through both loops) Row 2; slip stitch into next chain. Chain 2, dc 9 (total of 10 dc). Turn work over (on RS now). Row 3; slip stitch into next chain. Chain 2, dc 7 (total of 8 dc). Turn work over (on WR now) Row 4; slip stitch into next chain. Chain 2, dc 5 (total of 6dc). Turn work over (on RS now). Row 5; slip stitch into next chain. Chain 2, dc 3 (total of 4dc). Leave about 90cm long string, and fasten off. Dont worry if it looks a bit wobbly it will look neat and smooth once youve finished the edging. Crocheting the 2nd Flap Count 17 stitches from the end of the first flap around the rim of the hat, and pick up yarn in the 18th stitch. Make sure youre working on the right side of the hat (the outside). Work this flap exaclty the same as the first flap, but dont fasten off. Your ear flaps will be directly opposite each other on the hat when you lie it flat. I use my crochet hook to mark the spots as I count through the stitches. attach your yarn again (the crown of the hat should be nearest to your belly, so that youre working on the right side (RS) of the hat. ch2 to start, and then continue with dcs, turning your work after each row, just as you did for the first earflap. Dont fasten off yet! youre going to use a single crochet (sc) to work a smooth edging all the way around the hat. This will hide the wobbly steps that your decreasing dc stitches made on the earflaps and make them look like a smooth, curved line. Crocheting the edging So, working from where you finished the last row of Flap 2: Chain 1, then work sc evenly around the entire edge of the hat & flaps, joining back where you started with a sl st. working a sc around the edge. NOTE: when working around the end corners of each flap, work 3 dc into each corner to shape the corners. Fasten off, leaving a long piece of yarn the same length as Flap 1. 3 sc worked into a single chain in the righthand corner to bring the stitches smoothly around the edge.

and here you can see the left corner also has 3sc worked into one corner chain. Now use your crochet hook to pull the long piece of yarn through the middle bottom edge of each flap so that you have three even-lengthed pieces of yarn {see the picture!} dangling from the end of your ear flap. Cut the end loop so the 3 pieces of yarn are able to be plaited. Tie a knot to fasten them off. Repeat for the other flap. using crochet hook to pull yarn through a central spot on the edge of the flap just pull it until the three strands are of an even length. now cut the yarn so that you have three strands for plaiting/braidingtie a knot to finish each plait. Wah-la! You have made a hat. Be creative. Make it in stripes or random colours. Sew a flower on. Make it with a pompom or tassle on top. Do the double crochet (sc) edging in a different colour. Experiment with needle/yarn sizes for different effects. Go on. I dare you.