A STUDY DONE ON

TEXTILE AND GARMENT FINISHING

AS

ASSIGNMENT 1

FABRIC AND GARMENT FINISHING

SUBMITTED TO: Mr. MANISH BHARGAV

SUBMITTED BY: ADITYA MEENA ANURAG RANJAN AMBER MANI GAURAV GOMEZ SUMIT KUMAR

DFT - IV NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, GANDHINAGAR

TEXTILE FINISHING
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different processes that the textile materials undergo after pre-treatments, dyeing or printing for final embellishments to enhance their attractiveness and sale appeals as well as for comfort and usefulness.The word "finish" means all the different treatments applied to a fabric to change such things as its Appearance, Feel or hand, Wearability or care requirements. Textile finishing usually includes treatments such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing and/or printing, the final mechanical or chemical finishing operations, that during this stage are carried out on textile products (staple, sliver or top, yarns or filaments, woven or knitted fabrics) to enhance their basic characteristics like dye penetration, printability, wettability, colour, hand, and appearance.

Objects of finishing: To improve the appearance of the fabric, that is, make it more attractive or lustrous by operations like calendering, optical whitening, etc. To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, stiffening, etc. To cover faults in the original fabric. To increase weight of the cloth. To improve wearing qualities of cloth by making it shrink resistant, creaseresistant or free from pills and soiling. To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn withoutironing. To impart special properties to the fabric for specific end uses. To set the texture of certain fabrics and make others dimensionally stable. To produce stronger and more durable fabrics.

 To produce novelty effects.

Finishes take many forms and are selected or applied with the regard to the: Type of the fiber and yarn Thread count Method of fabric construction Hand, weight, drapability qualities required Anticipated end use of the fabric or garment Finishes : Change and alter the fabric Modify or improve the hand of the fabric Make fabric attractive and serviceable Produce a change in behavior or service characteristics Provide specific characteristics and desired properties Control instability or shrinkage of the fabric Provide aesthetic value to fabric Are used to conceal inferior structure Are used to stimulate superior quality goods In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease-free or wrinkle-free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, waterproof, anti-

static and peach finishing achieve various fabric properties desired by consumers. The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased considerably since the development of textured yarns made of filaments, and the growing production of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled production of lighter, breathable, fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort. The properties of plastic-based synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and polyacrylonitrile, are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibers. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic fabrics require a resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already exhibit these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation.

CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
According to function: Aesthetic Functional

According to quality: Temporary Semi permanent Permanent According to the type of machinery: Chemical Mechanical

Aesthetic Finishes Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and /or handor drape of the fabrics. Fulling Mercerization Napping And Seeding Plisse Shearing Softening Stiffening

Functional Finishes

Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of the fabric ; like durability, strength etc. Antimicrobial/Antiseptic Antistatic Crease resistant Durable Press Flame Resistant Mothproof Shrinkage Control Soil Release Water Proof/ Repellant

Temporary Finishes A finish which is not stable and goes off after the firstwash is known as temporary finish and these finishesdisappears during subsequent washing and usage.

Calendering Embossing Starching Softening

Permanent Finishes If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments, then the finish is said to be permanent finish. Sanforising Resin Finish Water Proof Flame Proof

Semi permanentFinishes A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards. Schreiner Calendering Buckram Finish

Chemical Finishes Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding followed by curing and drying. These are also called as wet Finishes. Stiff and transparent Flame Retardant Soil Release Water Proof Crease Resistance Softening

Mechanical finishes Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance. This is also known as dry finish. Calendering Raising Sanforising Milling

AIMS OF TEXTILE FINISHING

The final chemical treatments of the fabric which are carried out to impart special characteristics e.g. softening, stiffening, crease resisting, flame retarding, soil release effect etc. is known as textile finishing. The aim of the finishing is to improve the outward appearance and the quality of the fabric, and impart its specific properties.

Cycle of Finishing Process The whole cycle of finishing consists of mechanical and chemical processes, which are used depending on the kinds and end uses of the fabric. Mechanical processes include drying, calendaring, schreinering, embossing, sueding, raisingetc and chemical processes include in the application of special substances on the fabric, impregnation with size, starch, dextrin and other polymeric substances. Plain fabrics (bleached, dyed and printed) are subjected to finishing and other kinds of treatment. For instance white printed fabrics with a white ground are passed through a padder containing a solution of optical whitening agents for imparting glassy effect to the fabrics to be printed.

IMPORTANT FINISHES

CALENDERING Calendering is not a single type of finish. There are various types of calender machinery, each producing different types of finished fabrics. Fundamentally, a calender is a mechanical device consisting of two or more large rotating cylindrical rollers stacked on top of each other and usually heated. The cylindrical rollers are in contact with each other under pressure. Fabric being calendered passes around and between these cylinders. The specific type of calendered finished fabric varies with the nature of the cylinder surface, the speed of the cylinders and the nature of the fabric being finished.

The

various

types

of

calendering

finishes

include

the

following:

(a) Simple calendering Simple calendering consists of passing the fabric around and between the heated cylinders of the calender. It is, in effect, a mass production ironing or pressing

of the cloth, removing all of the wrinkles from prior operations. The high pressure of the cylinders gives the fabric a smooth, lustrous surface. This occurs because the cylinder pressure tends to flatten the yarns in the fabric from their normal round configuration. Higher pressure produces smoother and more lustrous fabrics. Simple calendering is a temporary finish. The yarns in the fabric usually return to their natural round configuration on the first laundering or steaming. (b) Glazing calendering Glazing calendering produces a highly glazed, polished effect on one side of a fabric surface. The calender machine used for this purpose is called a friction calender or chasing calender. One cylinder of the friction calender is made of highly polished steel. It rotates at a speed much higher than that of the fabric passing around and between the rollers, thus, literally polishing the fabric surface. Polished cotton and chintz are two typical fabrics finished by glazing calendering. (c) Embossed calendering Embossing produces a three dimensional design on the fabric. This is done on a special embossing calender in which the roller cylinder is engraved with the embossing design. The pattern is thus pushed or shaped into the cloth when the fabric passes between the rollers. Embossed pattern are temporary and will wash out of fabric unless resins are used to make them durable. If the fiber is thermoplastic, however the embossed effect is permanent since the heated metal roll will heat set the fabric design. (d) Moirecalendering A moir finish produces a wood grain design in the face side of a fabric. There are two methods for producing moir. The first uses an engraved cylinder roller on the calender which flattens one part of the fabric more than other, causing the different light reflectance which we see as moir. The second method utilises

smooth calender rollers. In this method, two fabrics, each face to face, are fed through the calender. Moir finishes may be temporary, durable or permanent.

(e) Schreiner calendering Schreiner calendering is another of the calender finishes. It produces a low, softkey luster on the fabric surface as distinct from the high glaze of the glazing calender or the luster shine of the simple calender. It may be permanent, durable or temporary finish.

Effects of Calendering Smoothing the surface Increasing the fabric lusture Closing the threads of a woven fabric

Decreasing the air permeability Increasing the fabric opacity Improving the handle of a fabric, i.e. softening Flateningslubs Obtaining silk like to high-gloss finishes Surface patterning by embossing Consolidation ofnonwoven

MERCERISING Mercerization is one of the most important of all cotton finishes. It is also used in the finishing of linen. Mercerizing causes the flat, twisted, ribbon like cotton fiber to swell into a round shape and to contract in length. This finish imparts luster to the cotton, increases its strength by nearly 25% and improves dye affinity, producing brighter shades than unmercerized cotton. It also enhances the hand as well as uses less dye to achieve the same depth of shade. The finish consists of treating the material while under tension with cold, concentrated sodium hydroxide solution. Both fabrics and yarns can be mercerized, but fibres cannot. Mercerization is a permanent finish. The process consists of passing the fabric through a cold 15 to 20 percent solution of caustic soda. It is then stretched out on tenter frame where hot water sprays remove most of the caustic. A special washer at the end of the tenter removes the balance of the alkali. The process is continuous. Good results require adequate saturation, sufficient tension and thorough washing.

Slack Mercerizing To obtain stretch in the filling direction only, cotton fabric is held under the tension in the length, relaxed in the width, and treated with a strong cold caustic soda solution for about one minute. It is then washed in clear water and dried. This slack mercerization causes contraction of the yarns not held under tension. Subsequently, the dried fabric will stretch from 15 to 20 percent in the filling direction with about 80 percent recovery, in inverse relation to the compactness of the construction. Complete recovery occurs with laundering.

SHRINKAGE CONTROL FINISHES Fibers spun into yarns are under constant tension during the weaving process. Their physical condition is changed, but not permanently fixed: the fibers tend to revert to their natural state, causing shrinkage. Fabric design and construction affect the amount of shrinkage that will occur. An openly constructed fabric (low number of yarns per inch.) will shrink more than a comparable compact fabric (high number of yarns per inch.) since in the first fabric the fibers (and yarns) are able to move more easily. For the same reason, fabrics containing low-twist yarns will tend to shrink more than fabrics with tightly twisted yarns. There are actually two kinds of shrinkage: 1. Relaxation shrinkage This occurs because the fibers and yarns are under considerable tension when fabrics are made. It can also occur when a fabric is exposed to high heat. It occurs only once. 2. Progressive shrinkage It occurs each time a fabric is laundered. Unlike relaxation shrinkage it occurs only once, progressive shrinkage continues and shrinks a bit more with each laundering.

Shrinkage control methods Method name and uses Compressive shrinkage (for woven fabrics of cotton, high wet modulus rayon, linen and tubular knit cotton fabrics) Special features and comments A relaxation shrinkage method. Consists of mechanically compressing the fabric lengthwise by overfeeding onto a large roller covered by damp blankets. Sanforize. Pak-knits, sanforknit are such patented methods. A relaxation shrinkage method. Based Heat set (For fabrics made from thermoplastic on the principle that thermoplastic fibers, e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic materials will become stabilized in the and others) configuration in which they happens to be in when heated to near their melting point. A relaxation shrinkage method. Spongeing (For fabrics made from wool) Consists of thoroughly wetting the fabric (with water or steam) and allowing the material to dry slowly in a relaxed, tensionless state. London shrunk, cold water shrunk and open steam sponged are some of the methods. This method merely permits wool to be steam pressed or caught in rain without severe shrinkage.

Resin treatment (for rayon and cotton fabrics)

Chlorination (for wool fabrics)

Special application resins (for wool fabrics)

A relaxation shrinkage method. Impregnating rayon or cotton with resins and then curing stabilises the fabric and thus reduces its tendency to distort. The resin also provides crease resistance. Increasing the resin content improves shrink and crease resistance but also causes fabric stiffness. A progressive shrinkage method. Chlorine treatment which attacks the wool surface sales, thus reducing the ability of the wool to felt. A low cost method, but it has serious disadvantages: loss of strength and rough, harsh hand, hence is rarely used. A progressive shrinkage method. Rarely used as last several laundering only.

STEAMING A fabric steamer uses steam rather than heat to remove wrinkles. The steam, and slight pressure of the steamer's surface, relaxes the fibers rather than flattening them. Because of this process, using a fabric steamer is gentler on clothing, faster than using an iron, and eliminates scorching. The fabric steamer is ideal for use on napped fabric, such as velvets and velveteen. A traditional iron will crush the nap, unless used with a needle board, but the fabric steamer doesn't exert pressure, preserving the luxurious look and feel of any material. Even very delicate materials, such as satins and silks, benefit from the gentle care of a fabric steamer.

SANFORIZING It is a process whereby the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a machine that has drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.

TENTERING It is the mechanical straightening and dying of the fabric. Tenter fames hold the fabric with special pins. The chain is spread apart to the desired width of the fabric. The fabric is moved through dying units. Later the fabric is rolled on cylinders.

EMBOSSING Fabric calendaring is effected in special machines I.e. calendars, the main working organ of which is rolls with smooth surface for normal calendaring engraved surface for emboss calendaring and engraved finer lines for schreinering calendaring or for getting crepe effect. The calendar may be 3 bowl or five bowl and the contacting one bowl is plain steel roller and the other may be covered with rubber otherwise the fabric at nip point will break if both bowls are hard.

Glazing or rolling calendar: This method is not particularly important for nonwoven fabrics, with occasional exceptions. The smooth surface can be obtained usually by selecting an appropriate form of bonding and, especially, for drying a wet-bonded web. Calendaring has not met with much success since it is often accompanied by undesirable compression. The only time a rolling calendar is used is when two steel rollers are paired to break the so-called 'blotches' in spun-bonded fabrics.

Moir or goffering calender: The calenders are common in nonwoven finishing and are used in the compacting of the webs made of natural and synthetic fibers. This type of calendering can be considered to be both a bonding and finishing process. Webs composed of longitudinally oriented cotton or viscose fibers with a GSM of about 10-30 g/m2 can be stiffened and compacted sufficiently by passing them through a goffering calender when slightly damp. Hot embossing of synthetic fiber webs, even when the fibers are longitudinally oriented, produces a product remarkably strong due to the fibers melting at the embossed areas. The patterns can be of grid, webbed or point type. The temperature of the heated rollers is generally 20-30C above the melting point of the fibers and the

nip roll pressure 20-50dN/cm, depending on the volume of the web and the proportion of synthetic fibers it contains. If the web is cross-laid, point embossing results in maximum strength. If the fibers are arranged lengthwise, webbed embossing is employed.

The embossing effect is used to obtain special effects such as leather graining, simulated weave, plaster, brush strokes, cord and mock tiling. Another area in which heated calenders used is in the manufacture of laminates. Here thermoplastic fibers, layers of thread or film are placed between two layers of non-plastic web and are fused together by heat and pressure. Such laminates are used as tablecloths, seat and cushion covers. Calenders are also used in the transfer printing of the bonded webs. Crabbing is a preliminary treatment for both un-dyed and dyed woven fabrics with differing objectives. In the case of un-dyed woven material the crabbing process serves to fix the fabric so as to avoid too intensive creasing and felting at the subsequent dyeing stage. After being dyed the woven fabric is smoothed and leveled by crabbing. Silicone blankets are used in this process.

PERFORATING & SLITTING The nonwoven bonded fabrics produced are too stiff and are, therefore, unsuitable for clothing. This is because the individual fibers are not free to move in relation to one another, as are threads in woven or knitted fabrics. Perforating and slitting are two methods practiced to improve the fall or drape of nonwoven bonded fabrics.

Perforating The Artos method is a method of perforating in which the web, which has been bonded by using chemicals, is perforated with hot needles. This process not only punches holes but also reinforces as a result of cross-linking and condensation of the bonding agent. The Hungarian firm Temaforg uses a similar method to perforate webs made of synthetic fibers to produce nonwoven bonded fabrics which are strong and yet supple enough for use as building and insulation materials. Slitting Slitting originally developed to improve the softness and drape of films was used by the Breveteam Company for interlinings, in particular for adhesive fixable interlinings. The optimum cut length and distance between the slits to get maximum softness and fall without serious reduction of strength can be calculated. The effect of slitting allows greatest flexibility at right angles to the direction of the slit. The slitting is accomplished by a roller with small blades mounted on it, for example, in an off-set arrangement 1.7 mm apart, making slits of a maximum length of 6.5mm. Rotary knives with spreaders can be fitted to the roller, thus making an interrupted cutting edge. Polyethylene or polyamide film shaped by splitting or embossing and stretching by the Xironet and Smith-Nephew methods make good air permeable bonding layers.

FULLING Fulling is a permanent finish used on wool fabrics; it is also known as milling or felting. The process is a carefully controlled scouring or laundering process to induce felting shrinkage in wool fabrics. The fibers are cleaned, scoured and condensed by a combination of moisture, soap, heat and pressure. The resultant fulled fabric is smoother, more compact and has yarns more

tightly embedded than an unfulled fabric. Woollens are frequently heavily fulled, more compact body.

TENTERING This process is applied at various stages of finishing. Usually, the favric is wet when it is run into a tenter; drying and evening of the fabric width are the primary purposes of tentering. Tentering is a continuou s operation in that he goods enter the one end of the frame, which is usually 90 feet long, and emerge from the other. The frame is equipped in most modern plants with devices that straighten the filling and keep it at right angles to the warp, thus avoiding biased goods.

CRABBING In finishing wool fabrics, a stretching process called crabbing passes the cloth over rollers into hot water or steam. The fabric is then put into cold water, after which it is pressed. This process is similar to tentering, as the fabric is stretched or loosened where necessary and finally set at the width at which the warp and filling yarns are in proper relation to each other. Consequently, there is no hidden strain on any portion of the fabric. Crabbing prevents creasing and uneven shrinkage.

DECATING Decating preshrinks as well as improves appearance, luster, and hand of the fabric without loss in succeeding finishing operations. It is a mechanical process that may be applied to woven or knitted goods. The extent of modification depends on the fiber, fabric structure and control exercised over the process. There are two methods: dry decating and wet decating.

TEMPORARY STIFFENING Cotton and linen can be given stiffness, smoothness, weight and strength by immersion in a solution of starch. This process is commonly known as starching. A small amount of starch in consumers goods helps to retain

freshness while they are on the dealers shelves. Other substances used for stiffening fabrics are flour, dextrine, glue, shellac, fats, waxes, paraffin. The starches give weight, glue gives stiffness, fats give softness, and wax and paraffin gives luster. Other terms used in referring to temporary stiffening are sizing and dressing.

PERMANENT STIFFENING Permanent stiffening effects can be achieved by chemical processes that change the cellular structure of the fiber. By this method, sheer and medium weight cottons are given stiffness, which sometimes last for throughout the life of the fabric. Some of these permanent finishes are as follows: Ankord, Basco, clearight, Kandarized, saylerizing, sheercroft, staze-right, trubenizing.

NAPPING Napping is a mechanical finish in which woven or knitted fabrics are passed against rotating, bristled wire-covered brushes. This action results in fibres actually being raised from the fabric. The overall effect is a fabric with raised fibre surface. Napped fabrics have a softer hand and provide better insulation than the same materials unnapped because they can entrap more air; hence, their wide use in blankets, sleepwear and winter clothing. However, the insulating value of cotton and rayon napped fabrics is not long lasting. The low resilience of these fibres causes premature flattening of the

fibre nap. The nap can partially be restored by frequent brushing. Difficulty with the napped fabrics is that the napped fiber ends are subjected to pilling and rather rapid wear at sleeve ends, coat fronts, buttonholes, elbows and other abrasion points. Napped fabrics of cotton and rayon tend to burn rapidly. Napped fabrics should not be confused with pile fabrics.

SHEARING Shearing is a process used to cut off surface fibres on fabrics. It makes uniform the surface of napped fabrics. Most cut pile fabrics are also sheared to provide uniform pile height. A fabric shear, the high speed machine which performs this operation, has cutting action similar to a lawn mower. The blades are stationary and the fabric moves to the cutting blades. After shearing the fabric is automatically brushed in order to remove the sheared ends of the yarns.

CREASE RESISTANT FINISHES Crease resistant finishes are popularly known as CRF finishes. They are used on cotton, rayon and linen because these three fibres wrinkle easily. CKF finishes are resin finishes; the fabric is saturated with resin and then the resin is cured at temperatures of about 360F. The fabric becomes stiffer, less absorbent and more resistant to wrinkling. Resin treatments also results in tensile strength loss and reduction of abrasion resistance in cellulosic fibres. Most CRF finishes are durable.

PERMANENT PRESS (Durable press) Durable press is not a specific textile finish, but rather a descriptive term for garments or other sewn product (bed sheets, table linens, and so forth) which maintain a pressed appearance through many laundering and wearing and do not require ironing.

The principle of durable press is to provide fabrics and sewn products with the ability to resist or shed wrinkles formed during wearing and washing as well as to retain or resist the removal of creases or pleats intentionally put into the fabric. There are three basic systems to attain this. 1. By heat setting of thermoplastic fiber. 2. By resin treatment and curing of the resin in non thermoplastic fibers. 3. Liquid ammonia process

SHAPE RETENTIVE FINIHES Fabrics of cellulose fibers lack the ability to retain their shape- they wrinkle and crush easily. These finishes are all based on the resins or reactants that will combine chemically with the fiber through a process known as cross linking, whereby adjacent molecular chains of cellulose in the fiber are linked or tied together to provide greater molecular rigidity and to prevent intermolecular slippage. The original chemical used was urea-formaldehyde and melamineformaldehyde. Other agents are dimethylodihydroxythylene urea (DMDHEU), dihydroxydimethylethylene urea (DHDMEU). All these finishes reduce by 30to 50 percent of the tensile and tear strength of the fabric to which they are applied. also, the fibers become less absorptive.

WASH & WEAR FINISHES These are also referred to as dry-dip finishes. Garments made of fabrics with wash and wear finishes will dry smooth and need little or no ironing after washing, depending in the quality of the finish and the construction. The fabrics have a good, soft hand and a neat appearance.

MOTH PROOF FINISHES Moth larvae and carpet bettles are known to attack animal fiber fabrics. When these fibers are in blends, the blend fiber as well as the animal fiber may be attacked. There are several ways to provide moth proof protection but the chemical finish which is permanent, easy to apply, and relatively low in cost, but must be added at the time of dyeing. This chemical, usually added to the dye bath while the wool or other animal fiber is being dyed, simply makes the wool indigestible to the larve.

ANTI-STATIC FINISHES Anti-static finishes are chemical substances applied at the textile finishing mill for the purpose of reducing or eliminating static. These chemicals are actually substances which absorb small amounts of moisture from the atmosphere, thus reducing the dryness of the fabric. Anti-static finishes are not a truly satisfactory method for coping with the problem of static in textiles because they are merely semi-durable. These finishes wash out or wear out in several launderings or dry

cleanings. Permanent anti-static effects are obtainable, however, with the man-made fibres which have been especially modified for this purpose.

Antiseptic Finishes Antiseptic finishes are chemical agents inhibiting the bacterial growths which cause irritation and odour in shoes, luggage, underwear fabrics and similar items. These finishes are low in cost, easily applied and are durable to laundering and dry cleaning. Plisse Plisse is the name of a finish as well as the name of a fabric treated with this finish. It is a permanent finish, produced on cotton by the action of sodium hydroxide; but unlike mercerizing, no tension is used. The sodium hydroxide is printed on the fabric in the form of a paste. The fabric shrinks only where the sodium hydroxide is applied, producing a puckered effect. Plisse fabrics generally do not require ironing.

 Water and stain repellents Water repellents are finishes which resist the penetration of water into or through the fabric, but permit the passage of moisture or air. The principle behind this ability is that the yarns, rather than the whole fabric, become coated with the repellent chemical, thus permitting the passage of vapour and air between the interlacing in the fabric. The chemicals used are waxes, emulsions or certain other chemicals which allow raindrops and other liquids to remain on the fabric surface in a small bead rather than to spread out and become absorbed.

Categorization of repellents: 1. Nondurable repellents: These are low in cost, easily applied, and in general, provide excellent water resistance. However, they are easily removed in laundering or dry cleaning. They do not provide satisfactory resistance to oily liquids. 2. Durable repellents: There are several types of durable repellents. Some are durable only to laundering, some only to dry cleaning, and others to both. Within the durable repellent grouping, the fluorocarbon compounds have outstanding ability to both dry cleaning and laundering. Soil repellency

A group of fluorochemical finishes which act as water repellents are also soil or stain repellents. The finishes are applied to a wide variety of clothing and home furnishings, are effective against water- and oil-borne stains. It involves a lowenergy application of a durable soil repellency and soil release finish. Cotton and cotton/polyester fabrics are irradiated and then impregnated with a mild solution of methacrylic acid, briefly stored and then dried. Soil release Soil release finishes in fabrics permit relatively easy removal of soils (especially oily soils) with ordinary home laundering. There are several types of soil release finishes. All of them accomplish the end result of making the fibre more absorbent (hydrophilic), thus permitting better wettability" for improved soil removal. Most soil release finishes are applied at the same time that the resins are applied to textiles. Most are durable through 40 to 50 launderings and are routinely applied to fabrics for work clothes and table cloths. They are also often applied to fabrics for slacks and skirts. Several other benefits arise from the use of soil release finishes in durable press fabrics because of their increased absorbency. These include: improved antistatic properties, improved fabric drapability and somewhat greater comfort in hot weather.

GARMENT FINISHING & THEIR METHODS

Why Garment Finishing? Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is now impossible to survive in this highly competitive world market. Processing is important to make a usable but finishing gives value addition to it. It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing can incorporate desirable properties. Methods Of Garment Finishing There are two main methods of garment finishing. 1. Dip process. 2. Tumble process Dip process Dip the garment inside out in finishing chemical keeping MLR 1:5. Washing machine may be used. Rotate the garment for 20 min. Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up. Tumble dry at 70 degree Centigrade to moisture content 10 to 12 %. Turn the garment right side out. Iron/steam press the garment to set the creases at desired places. Cure at 150 to 160 degree Centigrade.

Tumble Method In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a machine with sealed (not perforated) cylinder and application of recipe by either pumping or spraying. The drum is turned for 20 min there should not be excessive dripping of chemicals from the garment. If so more tumbling time is allowed. This method is being used more and more due to the fact that there is no wastage of chemicals. After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70 degree Centigrade to 10to 20 % pick up moisture content. The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150 to 160 degree Centigrade for 8 to10 min.

Important features: MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the garment weighing 600 gm and 1:1 for those weighing more than 600 gm. Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min. Tumble rotation speed 20 to 30 rpm. Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than 70 degree Centigrade. Moisture retention after drying should be 10 to 12%.

BIOLOGICAL FINISHES: Bio-polishing: - To produce this effect cellulose enzymes were introduced. The regular acid acting celluloses produced following effects: More cutting Color loss Prone to contour patches Bluish heavy effect High back staining Economical

However, the desire was for enzyme, which is as economical as acid cellulose and properties like the neutral acting celluloses. To achieve this, Genetically Modified enzymes were produced, called GMO's (Genetically Modified Organisms). It is known that enzymes have various activities (Endoglucanase I, II; etc.) Exoglucanase, cello-biohydrolase (CBH II) etc. With the advent of genetic engineering it is now possible to increase or suppress one or more of these activities to achieve tailor made results. Enzymes are naturally occurring proteins that are capable of catalyzing specific chemical reactions. Because they only catalyze the reactions and are not consumed, only a small quantity is needed. Cellulose enzymes are proteins that are capable of hydrolyzing (degrading) cellulose.

Two kinds of cellulose are currently available: "Acid Cellulases" which exhibit the most activity in acid pH range of 4.5 5.5 and "Neutral Cellulases" that are active in the 5.5 to 8.0 pH range. to

Both enzymes are active within an optimal temperature range of about 45C to 60C. After the hydrolysis of cellulosic fibers to the desired extent, changing the temperature or pH level can deactivate the enzyme. Because the enzymes are natural proteins, readily biodegradable, they are a favorable alternative to many finishing chemicals and resins that are currently used.

The bio-polishing process targets the removal of the small fiber ends protruding from the yarn surface and thereby reduces the hairiness or fuzz of the fabrics. The hydrolysis action of the enzyme weakens the protruding fibers to the extent that a small physical abrasion force is sufficient to break and remove them. Bio polishing can be accomplished at any time during wet processing but is most convenient performed after bleaching. It can be done in both continuous or batch processes. However, continuous processes require some incubation time for enzymatic degradation to take place. Removing the fuzz makes the color brighter, the fabric texture more obvious, and reduces pilling. Unfortunately, the treatment also reduces the fabric strength. Smoother yarns also increase the fabric softness, appearance and feel. Since it is an additional process, the bio-polished garments may cost slightly more. Denim Bleaching: - Laccases enzymes are used to get outstanding contrast look on denim fabrics. They also eliminate all the negative effects of the indigo dye redeposition at the same time reducing the time of the process necessary to achieve a highly abraded look. Various effects are obtained on denim fabrics using Laccases. PROTECTIVE FINISHES: Insect Repellent Finishing: - An ANTIMO MGL a menthoglycol is a natural insect repellent active ingredient, derived from lemon eucalyptus, which is a natural and renewable source. Testing of Antimos MGL with a moderately aggressive cage population of Aedesaegypti mosquitoes resulted in no bites up to at least 4 hours. This indicates that the products has unusual repellency. Antibacterial Finishing: - Microbes are minute organisms, which can be most dangerous for creating harm to our lifestyle in different ways. So to make the environment healthy, hygienic and fresh, it becomes very important to have the control over growth of the microbes and for these the garments / fabrics should be treated with some specialty chemicals, which can restrict the growth of these microorganisms. Antimicrobial finishing is one of the special types of finishing given to the textiles where the chances of bacterial growth are high and the safety is paramount. Biquanides, phenols and their derivatives, isothiazolones, metals, ammonium compounds and alcohols serve as anti-bacterial agents in finishing recipe. Some other important chemicals are Zeolite (inorganic compound of sodium aluminose ), Triclosan ( a phenolic derivative), Chitin (extracted from shells of crabs and shrimps) and Quarternary ammonium compounds.

 Action of Antimicrobial finish: - Anti-microbial treatment on the undergarments controls the growth of microbes on it, which will in turn control the above effects. Characteristics: -This type of finishing inhibits the growth of microbes on the surface of the fabric. Maintains hygiene and freshness, stops bad odour. Controls or eliminates microbial staining. Improves life of the articles wherever it is applied. Improves hand of most of the fabric. Eliminates the chances of disease transmission. Effective on any substrate like cellulose, synthetics as well as their blends and any surface other than textiles.

Antibacterial chemicals are: Chemical nature Composition on (gpl) Na salt of heterocyclic compound 20 Aq.solution of Na-o-phenylphenate 1 An organic compound containing 40 nitrogen with no hylogen or heavy salt

Combination of heterocyclic organic 80 compound Derivatives of benzimidole 100

FUNCTIONAL FINISHES: Cool Finish (Snocool) When temperature rises, we tend to sweat. This is a natural reaction of our body to maintain the temperature around 97 fahrenheit.The sweat when evaporates, takes along with it heat equivalent to heat of evaporation of water, thereby maintaining the temperature of the body. The Snocool finish uses the moisture management route i.e. it will enhance the natural phenomenon of sweat evaporation. This finish absorbs and dissipates sweat evenly throughout and thus gives a cool feeling to the wearer.

Characteristics Garments finished with Snocool produces a cool effect. The finish has two fold effect, it reflects light (special polymer) and transfers moisture faster than normal from body to fabric and finally to the atmosphere. These finishing agents can be manufactured with or without fragrance. Thermocat Finishing A finishing agent for producing heat retaining effect. This type of finishing when applied to the fabric keeps it warm.Produces heat retaining effect due to infrared radiation owing to its porosity.Especially suitable for 100% cellulose and its blends. UV Protective Finish The protection offered by UV cutting fabrics is expressed in terms of UV protection factor (UPF) or sun protection factor (SPF), which are equivalent to the user. UPF of 40 for a garment means the wearer can stay 40 times longer in the sun before skin reddening (erythema) sets in. other words if skin reddens in 15 minutes without UV cutting garment, the same level of reddening would take 10 hours, when UV cutting garment is worn. This means that UPF is a ratio of the time taken for skin reddings with and without protection.

 Flame Retardant Finish Flame retardant finishing is not any finish used for textiles, but it is the need of an hour. The finished material is used not only to produce garments but carpets, curtains, etc. which are used in public places like hotels, theatres etc. The effective flame proofing of the materials used in these areas are of paramount importance.

Characteristics: It can withstand at least 50 washings. It also exhibits excellent fastness to dry cleaning using chlorinated solvents. Its application practically does not cause yellowing and modifies the handle of the articles. It is recommended to apply Flame shield CV 20 with thermosetting resins. Any change of the mechanical resistance of the articles treated with Flame shield CV 20 is generally low. However, the simultaneous use of thermosetting resins may result in an important loss of the strength, up to 20% of the initial value. In such cases, the use of polyethylene emulsion allows a significant minimization of the tensile strength loss. Mildew proofing Cellulose fibers are particularly susceptible to mildew. Such untreated fabrics will become stained, malodorous and eventually deteriorated by the fungus if

allowed to remain in a moist condition for a period of time. Mildew proofing can be done soaking the material in very soapy water, then, without rinsing, dipping it into a solution of copper sulfate. Antiseptics such as boric acid and carbolic acid also prevent rapid growth of the mildew fungus. One compound that is not easily washed out is a 0.05 percent solution of phenyl mercuric acetate in water. This is one of the most effective mildew proofing agents. Certain organometallic compounds, such as of tin and copper, are powerful mildew retardants. Slip resistance In fabrics that have a low thread count, the warp yarns sometimes slip along the filling yarns. Unusual wear or strain on some parts of a fabric may cause the same action, slipping. Permanent firmness can be given to fabrics by immersing them in synthetic resins, then stretching and drying them under tension. The deposit of resin at the points of interlacing in the weave prevents the yarns from slippage.

Peach Skin Effect In classical finishing of lyocell, peach skin effects are produced in rope form using Airflows and Air tumblers. Alternatives are produced in open - width finishing with special emery finishes e.g. emery papers coated with diamond dust is recommended which imitate effects comparable with the classical method. Apart from Peach Skin effects, various finishes can naturally be applied to fabrics of LenzingLyocell such as calendaring, embossed effects, crepe or other

special effects. With a liquor ratio of 1:12 to 1:15, the preventive agent against running creases, the dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium acetate (0.5 gpl) are added initially. It is necessary to choose preventive agents against running crease and dispersing agents that do not hinder the activity of the selected enzyme (cellulose). The liquor is heated to the given optimum temperature (45 60 C) .The pH is adjusted with acetic acid (pH 5.5 - 4.5) followed by the addition of enzyme. AquaTex Finish Traditional finishing processes for these fabrics usually require the addition of chemicals, in reality; however, these chemical compounds cause a shortening of the life span of such a fabric, its performance, and prohibit the possibility of recycling, and frequently involve significantly higher additional expenses for wastewater treatments. The AquaTex system or for the enhancement of woven and some knit fabrics has been developed In lieu of these chemicals, which frequently are environmentally undesirable, the AquaTex system only uses regular water at ambient temperature to achieve acceptability of such fabrics in the trade and actually make them more marketable.

Main advantages of the aqua-tex system: Increased thickness and density the weave construction can usually be reduced significantly - and (it physical properties remain the same or actually improve. Softness - the fabric usually does not need any additional processes to obtain this property.ImprovementIn abrasion resistance - up to 50 % higher. A permanent mini-velour can be obtained in fabrics, which have spun weft or warp yarns. The fabric surface is very clean. Improved definition and clarity of the design and the

colors.Reduced or eliminated use of environmentally harmful chemicals. More cost effective - elimination of traditional finishing processes. Feather touch &ultra soft touch Feather touch & Ultra soft touch finishes are commercial names produced by treating with Amino, carboxy, or Epoxy Silicones alone or in successive treatments. Amino Silicones Extensively available in market are widely used in softening. They impart excellent softness With Bounciness when used in concentration 2.5 to 3% in garment finishing. Yellowing and some level of hydrophobicity are the disadvantages. Epoxy silicones, which are most compatible with most of the other finishing chemicals, Impart softness without yellowing and improved fabric strength. They play a vital role in Wrinkle free finishes by imparting improved tear strength. Rubbery touch Rubber latex provide glossy, crispy handle with characteristic rubbery effect, which are durable. This effect gaining much more importance among the youngsters. In leather finish they are applied as final finish treatments after enzyme or stone wash or after mechanical abrasion and enzyme treatments. Many catching names such as Bio-polished &rubbery touch finish, enzyme Biopolish & rubbery touch finish, are quite common. Preparation and application of emulsions: For finishing of textiles it is necessary to prepare aqueous baths with emulsions or micro- emulsions of silicone softener. The advantage of micro-emulsions is their thermodynamic stability and the drawbacks are higher fraction of surfactants and lowering of softness effect. Using non-ionic surfactants it is possible to prepare stable dilute micro-emulsions with more than 40% strength. The softness produced by micro-emulsions is similar to that of solvent solution. During application on jets it is necessary to control the liquor ratio as well as temperature and shear forces, to prevent the separation and silicone oil and formation of spots. The finishing of synthetics is less sensitive than that of cotton.

 Non-stick Teflon spray This is a new generation multipurpose lubricant based on poly tetra fluoro ethylene (PTFE). In service this lubricant forms a tenacious non-stick coating of the fluoro-polymer, which does not allow dirt and dust to settle on the textile surface. This makes the product ideal for cement plants, textile mills and industries etc. where constant flow of dust and contaminants affect the conventional lubricants. Wrinkle free finishes Easy care finishes producing cross-linking agent to avoid crease formation. It gives improved dimensional stability to the garments. But crease recovery property should with stand for repeated washes. They must suitable for cotton, P/C,P/V, blended fabric. Water repellent finishes Water and stain resistant finishes on fabric has gained considerable popularity amongst youngsters Water resistant finishes can be produced using Metal salts paraffin dispersion, Poly silioxanes, Fluorocarbons, These auxiliaries impart hydrophobic character; and of the above fluoro carbon polymers are extensively used in fabric finishing. They form a film where the fluorocarbon redials are perpendicular to the fiber axis and prevent wetting of the fiber surface. Their high hydrophobic & oleo phobic action is explained by the extremely low interfacial tension of fluorocarbon chain towards all chemical compounds. In actual practice fabrics are bio polished first with enzyme and fluorocarbons are applied either by spray method or dip method and fabrics are finally cured at 1500C for 10 minutes. Fluorochemicals are organic compounds consisting of per fluorinated carbon chain. This is a film former that reduces the surface energy of a substrate, thereby providing one or more of the following properties: Oil Repellency Soil Resistance Water Repellency How do fluorocarbons affect the surface tension? Fluorocarbon from a thin film around the fiber, thus providing the fiber with a lower surface tension, is lower than most liquids. Finishing the fabric with Hydro-guard makes the fabric sufficiently water repellent so that it can imitate the lotus leaf. Hydroguard is a special fluoro polymer manufactured by

processes that do not produce any by-product.

Water resistant breathable finish Present trend is to impart water-repellency without affecting water vapor permeability of fabric and garments for use in out door activities; weatherclothing etc. improving the transpiration rate of perspiration through the textile material is particularly important in sports activities where the relative metabolic rate is high. Water droplets but allow the escape of water vapor. Such types of garments are designed for sports-wear, tracksuits, clothing for mountaineering etc.

The chemicals consist of Quaternary ammonium Salt with the pyridine Base and a compound is formed with cellulose in the presence of sodium acetate. The process sequence employed is padPad - water repellent chemical Dry - Drying - 60-70C Cure-Soap-Rinse - Curing - 1200C for 2-3 mins.

Soil release and stain release finish Soil release and stain release and stain release finishes are particularly important where leisure or sports are activities may lead to greeter incidence of soiling and staining. Another factor is the trend towards lower temperature washing of garments where the removal of persistent soil and stain removal becomes more

problematic. On this principle three major groups of finishes are developed. Finishes containing carboxylic groups.Finishes containing oxy ethylene and/ or hydroxyl groups.

CONCLUSION
The scope of textile finishing is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open up new markets and new horizons for textile industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in further research and development. Globalization has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every industry should now produce products that are best in terms of quality and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive and prosper. The major trust areas in the coming years will very much centre around: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Customized solution Process optimization All in one universal application. Global competitiveness Technological up gradation

What is needed is not simply conveyance of knowledge but the development of truly creative researchers. The textile industry needs to shift its emphasis from quantity to quality in the new millennium of global competition era. The driving force for change in chemical finishes are the need for a competitive strategy by cost conscious finisher to add value , enhance quality and provide the greater levels of service to customers through Right first time, right on time , right every time finishing. Compatibility is essential to provide one short multifunctional finishes that can be applied simultaneously.

REFERENCES
1. http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.in/2007/10/textile-finishing.html 2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finishing_(textiles)) 3. http://www.textileschool.com/School/TextileFinishing/TextileFinishingA ims.aspx 4. http://www.thesmarttime.com/processing/textile-finishes.htm 5. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/free-apparel-industryarticle/special--finishes-to-garment-an-overview/special--finishes-togarment-an-overview15.asp

6. fiber to fabric- P. B Corbmann