A GRINGA IN OAXACA

Peggy Lynn Bryan

UNA GRINGA EN OAXACA

 Copyright 2006 Peggy Lynn Bryan Should you wish to support the mission of the Episcopal Church in Oaxaca, we welcome your tax deductable donation: Make the check out to: St. Barnabas Episcopal Church In the memo line write: Oaxaca Mission Mail to: Bill Ashby 113 Ancient Coast Fredericksburg, Texas 78624-6139

All [money-making] rights reserved because anything is possible! Beyond that official, obligatory warning, this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written prior permission of the author. Feel free to share far and wide!!

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Dedicated to The Rev. Mary Ann Garrett Episcopal priest and my internship supervisor Holy Trinity Anglican Church, Oaxaca City, Oaxaca, Mexico Adelina Santiago Cruz Zapotec textile artisan and my best friend in the streets of Oaxaca City Mitla, Oaxaca, Mexico Cathy Holley My partner in life and love Campbell, California, USA

Pero, por ltimo, a mis compaeros, aqu y all, gracias a Dios y adis. Pase lo que pase, yo regresar. Mientras tanto, cudense porque ustedes tienen mi corazn. Por favor, no me olviden! Sobre todo y siempre vayan con Dios. ------------------------------------------------------------But, finally, to my friends, here and there, thanks be to God and goodbye. No matter what, I will return. In the meantime, take care of yourself because you hold my heart. Please, don't forget me! Above all and always go with God.

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Introduction

long-legged spider friend unmolested so he can continue clearing out mosquitoes for the next visitor! So here ends my Gringa in Oaxaca travelogue. Allow me to take this opportunity to thank you for being my audience. Writing about my Mexican adventures helped me capture this amazing journey in a way that otherwise would have faded with memory. Every day here Ive asked for the grace to not just look, but to see; to not just hear, but to listen. To be graciously and humbly and constantly presentin the streets, the churches, the prison, the markets, the villagesto be vulnerable, to take risks, to dust myself off and try, try again. Ive given Mexico all that I am. I held nothing back. Yet I am departing with far more than I gave. Understandably, I leave with mixed emotionsI will miss mi familia nueva de Oaxaca but Ive missed equally my friends and family at home. Cathy has been a saint to run our household alone; her support and patience have long since exceeded above and beyond. I miss my dogs. I miss my bed. I miss you!

Equal parts adventure, sabbatical and course requirement for my Masters in Divinity Degree from Church Divinity School of the Pacific, I set off to Oaxaca, Mexico early January 2006 for a six month internship. I rented a tiny roof-top room in the heart of Oaxaca City and spent my days and weeks studying Spanish; interning at Holy Trinity Anglican Church which included a weekly pastoral visit to the state prison; volunteering as a photography teacher with an organization that serves street kids; and investing all my remaining time wandering and wondering. As Id never visited Mexico before, I moved to Oaxaca with no expectations. I went with a commitment to be open for discoveries from the land and the people. I am in transition from retiring as a public school principal (hence, some references are to Sherman Oaks School) to a ministry within the Episcopal Church. As a principal, Ive been blessed to serve many Mexican immigrant families so I felt it was a perfect opportunity to immerse myself in their culture and language. From the start of my journey, I composed regular e-mails to a group of personal friends, family members, seminary advisors, and professional colleagues. In order to preserve the energy and share the insights gained from this amazing experience, I assembled and published my electronic communications in chronological order. Some I wrote in Spanish which are included with translation into English. Will I return to Oaxaca? Sin duda. Without a doubt.

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Date: Subject: I needed a Trojan Horse

Fri, 9 Jun 2006 10:26:52 -0700 (PDT)

Date:

Sat, 7 Jan 2006 06:44:30 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

El Fin/The End

"Map out your future, but do it in pencil." Jon Bon Jovi

"Difficult times have helped me to understand better than before how infinitely rich and beautiful life is in every way, and that so many things that one goes worrying about are of no importance whatsoever." Isak Dinesen

After my Pirates of Escondido adventure, the rest of the week included long hikes on sea walls and beaches that stretched on forever; sunsets beyond description; fresh fish grilled and served right on the beach while I watched surfers challenging the famous Escondido Pipeline and the biggest waves Ive ever seen (that is saying something since I grew up in Santa Cruzthe surfing capital of California). Plus, for many hours I hung contentedly in a hammock on my private veranda reading senseless novels, occasionally popping up to make sure the local iguanas were staying a respectable distance away. Now, Im back in the city, packing to leave Mexico tomorrow. I've arranged to have my room cleaned but with specific instructions to leave my daddy

Hola! Off to Mexico through Texas via Phoenix. I didn't anticipate joining a load of Texas Longhorn fans returning home to Houston on the same plane! As we passed Austin at 30,000+ feet, the pilot had the nerve to announce that everyone should look to the left and salute Austin (home of the Rose Bowl winning Longhorns). Hook 'em horns everywhere with applause and cheers. So many Rose Bowl victory t-shirts, I felt like I was on a booster flight. Sick! I suspect if the crew knew that a Trojan alumnus was on board, I would have been seated in a middle seat across from the rear bathroom. I needed a Trojan Horse for an escape route. When does baseball start? Go Yankees. Peggy

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Date:

Thu, 12 Jan 2006 13:40:07 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Una collara, por favor.

Here is my first Mexico adventure story. Mary Ann, the Anglican priest supervising me, asked that I get a black priest collar so I would look more official for my prison clergy photo. I assumed I needed to pass many more history of Christianity classes before I could be official and wear a priest collar but she said it was ok. I located the Roman Catholic Store and it was packed with at least one thousand women looking for Christening clothes and men buying baptismal fonts that needed to be tested by pouring gallons of water into them in the middle of the store. So, imagine me, a white Anglo female, walking into a Oaxacan Catholic supply house, asking for a black priest's collar. I don't know how to say in Spanish, "Excuse me, but I need to purchase a black priest's collar, please." so I started by adding an "a" to "collar" making it "collara" since so many Spanish words end that way: "Perdon, una collara negro, por favor?" pointing to my neck. This is how that worked. The first clerk guided me to the book section of the (huge, sprawling) store and handed me a map of Oaxaca. "No, mappa, gracias" says I. The next clerk took me to the Christening section where I could buy a white chiffon blouse with pink buttons but I said, "No, blusa, gracias. Una collara negra, por favor." She commanded

comn en Monterey/Big Sur en California, pero las buenas noticias fueron que la temperatura fue tropicalclida. Todos los das, despus de eso, caminaba por la playa y los hermanos me decan. Entonces, me relaj. Si alguien se haba emocionado tanto con una tortuga del mar, posiblemente no podra tener ninguna intencin malvada para tirarme al agua. Despus de mi epifana sin peligro, me deleit fuera de la orilla con la vista extraordinaria del ocano cubierto con calas protegidas para bucear; las playas de arena blanca; los acantilados rocosos salpicados con cactos; el Faro de Puerto Escondido; Nativos en sus canoas de pescar para arrojar las redes, esperando el Mahi Mahi, la platija o el huachinango. El color de la agua verde jade y azul azur, comn en Monterey/Big Sur en California, pero las buenas noticias fueron que la temperatura fue tropicalclida. Todos los das, despus de eso, caminaba por la playa y los hermanos me decan muy amablemente, Hola, Perla! No necesit ser el pez que huy.

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kilmetros lejos de la orilla cuando me surgi la paranoia. Todo mi dinero, mi identificacin, mi crema solar SPF-45 estaban en mi mochila. Y si yo era su presa? Cmo haba aceptado dar una vuelta en una lancha con alguien que no conoca , a 2,800 millas de mi casa, completamente sola? Si desapareciera, nadie tendra ninguna idea en donde comenzar a buscar! La orilla estaba casi completamente fuera de vista, cuando l apag el motor y dio unos saltos hacia el frente, buscando algo debajo de un plstico. Me prepar para lanzarle mi cmara. l sac su caa de pescar. Esperaba atrapar un pez para el desayuno de su familia. Despus, seal emocionado a una tortuga que flotaba por ah, tan cerca, que nosotros, la tortuga y yo, nos miramos. De hecho, la tortuga se dio vuelta y lanz una mirada feroz. No puede una tortuga tener un poco de privacidad? El joven se ri y me dijo, A ella no le caemos bien! Entonces, me relaj. Si alguien se haba emocionado tanto con una tortuga del mar, posiblemente no podra tener ninguna intencin malvada para tirarme al agua. Despus de mi epifana sin peligro, me deleit fuera de la orilla con la vista extraordinaria del ocano cubierto con calas protegidas para bucear; las playas de arena blanca; los acantilados rocosos salpicados con cactos; el Faro de Puerto Escondido; Nativos en sus canoas de pescar para arrojar las redes, esperando el Mahi Mahi, la platija o el huachinango. El color de la agua verde jade y azul azur,

"Venga" and marched me to the manager who, when I asked him, just smiled, shrugged and said "No." Not to be denied a black collar without taking a lot of tests, I poked around myself and finally located a vestment section complete with UN COLLARA NEGRA! I marched back to the manager and said, "Venga!" and took him to window #5 where I pointed to the collar behind the glass. An hour later and 40 pesos poorer, I was out on the street but with my collar and happy about it. Simple victories. Adis. Peggy

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Date:

Fri, 20 Jan 2006 09:02:05 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Singing and Dreaming

I would walk along the beach and the brothers would call out a friendly, Hi, Perla!! I did not need to be the fish that got away. --------------------------------------------------------------El pez que no necesit huir La semana pasada, fui de vacaciones a Puerto Escondido, una regin de playas famosas en Oaxaca. Despus de un vuelo de cuarenta minutos (diez horas por el autobs) temprano por la maana, me instal en mi cuarto alquilado; era una casa magnfica al otro lado de la Playa Zicatela; me puse mi traje de bao, llen mi mochila con el equipo para nadar y me march. Todava no eran las nueve, por lo tanto, an las lanchas estaban descargando su pesca de la maana. Me reun con un grupo de mujeres locales que estaban paradas; se vean muy serias mirando fijamente hacia a los pescados. Tambin, yo estaba tan solemne, mirndolos, preguntndome que pasara despus. Quin sabe cuanto tiempo hubiera durado este ritual, pero un joven me toc en el hombro y me pregunt si quera ir en su lancha. l me mostrara cinco de las playas locales ms populares y si tenamos buena suerte, los defines y las tortugas. Instantneamente, contest que S! Estuvimos de acuerdo con el precio, l y su hermano empujaron la pequea lancha con motor, conmigo como su pesca turstica. Su hermano se qued. La tripulacin era slo yo y el joven capitn. Estbamos ms o menos dos

Hola! Week two and I am still walking, talking (a little more Spanish) and breathing in the sights and sounds of Oaxaca. This morning was the weekly market and wow, so many different fruits and vegetables, meat, cheese, etc., etc. Wednesday at the prison, after completing our official work with the women, Mary Ann (the Anglican priest) hummed the first bar to West Side Story's "Maria" -- one of the women is named Maria, hence the inspiration for humming. I launched into a full scale solo of "Maria, Maria, I just met a girl named Maria....."--I knew enough of the song to entertain (or shock, as the case may be) the courtyard of women. I encouraged them to sing with me and there were many shrieks of laughter and shy smiles. When we finished with our inmate choir, everyone cheered and applauded. Humanity and friendship never fails to team up in song and smiles. It was a special moment in a miserable place that breeds hopelessness. I shall take some photos in days to come so you can send me and my prison amigas and amigos good thoughts. Keep singing! Peggy

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Date: Subject: Vision of a friend

Tue, 24 Jan 2006 08:54:46 -0800 (PST)

me and the young skipper. We were about two kilometers offshore when paranoia crept in. All my money, my identification and my SPF-45 suntan lotion were in my backpack. What if I were his prey? What was I thinking to accept a boat ride with someone I didnt know, 2,800 miles from home, completely alone? If I disappeared, no one would have any idea where to even start looking!! The shore was almost completely out of sight when he cut the motor and took a couple of leaps to the front, reaching under a tarp. I prepared to throw my camera at him. He pulled out..fishing line. He hoped to catch a fish for his familys breakfast. Then he excitedly pointed to a sea turtle floating by, so close that we, the turtle and I, made eye contact. The turtle actually turned around in the water and glared. Cant a turtle get any privacy?! The young man laughed and called out She doesnt like us! At that point, I relaxed. Anyone who could get so excited over a sea turtle could not possibly harbor any evil intention of tossing me overboard. After my nodanger epiphany, I reveled in the unique off-shore, ocean view of sheltered diving coves; white sand beaches; rocky cliffs dotted with cacti; the Puerto Escondido lighthouse; fishing canoes casting nets out hoping for mahi mahi, flounder or red snapper. The water color is the jade green and azure blue common to Monterey/Big Sur in California, but the good news is that the temperature is tropical-warm. Every day afterwards

This Sunday morning I was fully vested (look like an angel all in whitephoto of Mary Ann and me below) and was tending to gate-opening for our parishioners. A man who comes daily sweeping up street trash was busy doing his job until I bounced out from behind the gate to start up a conversation in Spanish. He looked like a ghost had appeared--it took him a moment to get his bearings with this Anglo woman, dressed in a floorlength white gown ("cassock") babbling Spanish to him. But, after regaining his composure, he smiled and decided I wasn't a new vision like Guadalupe. Too bad-for a moment I had visions of being enshrined on Constitucin Street in Oaxaca for future pilgrims! But, better--I made a new friend. Peggy

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Date: Subject: Puerto Peggy

Wed, 7 Jun 2006 12:18:18 -0700 (PDT)

Date:

Tue, 24 Jan 2006 15:53:49 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Verbos!

"A day of worry is more exhausting than a week of work." John Lubbock* The Fish That Didnt Need To Get Away Last week I took a mini-vacation to Puerto Escondido, one of the most famous beach areas in Oaxaca. After an early morning 40-minute flight (10 hours by bus), I settled in my rented room of a magnificent house across from Zicatela Beach; pulled on my swimsuit; stuffed my backpack with swimming gear and headed out. It wasnt yet 9:00 AM so the fishing boats were still unloading their morning catch. I joined a group of local women who stood, looking very serious staring down at the fish. So, I stood just as solemnly staring at the fish wondering what came next. Who knows how long this ritual might have gone on but a young man tapped me on my shoulder and asked if I would like to go out in his boat? He would show me the five most popular local beaches and, if we were lucky, dolphins and turtles. Instantly, I responded Sure!we agreed upon a price and he and his brother launched their motor boat with me as their tourist catch. His brother stayed behind. The crew was just

In case you were wondering, I do not copy homework from any of the other language school students!! However, there are times I do wish that were an option! The good news is that I continue to faithfully report to class--four hours every weekday--and I am now waking up with dreams of Spanish verbs dancing in my head. So far I have resisted throwing my book into the dumpster (as ended my Berlitz class in Campbell). I also now confidently graze around town at my favorite street vendors for the best hamburgers, french fries, corn on the cob and yummy pralines. You can still tell I am not a "native" because I continue to look both ways before I cross the streets and ALL the streets in town are oneway. Well, I suspect most people can tell Im not native by just looking at me. Some habits live on (which, given the truly awful driving both here and in the States, I think I will hang on to this habit). I found a great little free cinema that is set up in the old aqueduct so, when I have time in the evenings, I take in a movie. If you haven't seen Jane Fonda's 1968 classic, Barbarella, DON'T!! Hasta luego. Peggy

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Learning Spanish Aprendiendo espaol

Date: Subject: Un pltano, por favor Wed, 25 Jan 2006 10:59:35 -0800 (PST)

When in doubt, use subjective. Cuando dudo, uso el subjunctivo.

Talk fast! Those who understand Spanish will assume they just didnt hear me correctly and those who dont will assume Im fluent. Hablo rpido! Esas personas que comprenden espaol supondrn posiblemente que ellos no me oyeron correctamente y sas que no comprenden espaol supondrn que yo hablo con soltura.

Dont let anyone translate for me. If I cant get my point across, try again and again and again. No permito que cualquiera traduzca por m. Si no me doy a entender, trato, trato y trato otra vez...

When Im really desperate, remind myself, Hey, after 54 years, I speak English almost perfectly. Cuando me siento muy desesperada, recuerdo, Mira, despus de cincuenta y cuatro aos, hablo ingls casi perfectamente.

You have all heard the folk tale about how to catch a monkey: hollow out a coconut, put a banana inside so when the monkey reaches in and grasps the banana you can capture the monkey because he won't let go of the banana to save his life. Well, here is last night's Oaxacan story: I went out late to buy a hamburger and french fries--two different street vendors are required, not ever as simple as one stop. Plus, my favorite vendors are a bit of a hike from my room so off I went, filling my pockets with my pesos, flashlight, camera (always looking for a photo op), and keys. As I am walking, I notice that my underwear is slipping--seems like the heavy concentration of minerals in the water dissolves elastic as part of the laundry process--but, I am hungry! I figure underwear doesn't matter anyway-it can be uncomfortable but not indecent exposure. I buy my food and now have both hands FULL of dinner. As I stroll along the main tourist street, my outer pants start slipping! All the weight in my pockets is pulling my pants down. Now, this is a dilemma: there is no where to put my food down even temporarily and did I mention yo tengo hambre! However, I now look like the boys who purposely wear their pants practically to their knees: sagging, bagging....I look around to see if anyone else

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Walk whenever possible but if I must take the bus, try to be first on, move to the rear quickly and sit down fast. Camino casi siempre pero si debo viajar en autobs, trato de entrar primero, me voy hacia atrs y me siento rpidamente.

notices my problem but thankfully no one was pointing and staring. My solution was to back up against an adobe wall and work my pants up by a series of movements that may start a new salsa dance fad in Oaxaca! The good news is that I gulped down my food, wiped my hands off with the matchbook-size napkin that is issued with the food, and pulled my pants up into proper position. My underwear, alas, was a lost cause, so it went out in the trash. Here is a photo of a banana growing wild I spotted on one of my many walks. Adis. Peggy

Want toilet paper? Pay the restroom attendant. Desea papel higinico? Le pago a la encargada del sanitario.

No vendors carry much change, from banks to corner stores, so just deal with it. Ningn venedor lleva mucho cambiode los bancos a las tiendaspor lo tanto tengo que acostumbrarme a eso.

Only buy one basket weave pig, no matter how many times in a day Im asked to buy another. Practice: NO GRACIAS! Slo una vez compro una cesta en forma de puerco, no importa cuantas veces las vendoras me lo pidan cada da. Practico, NO GRACIAS!

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Date: Subject: Fwd: From A. J. Cronin Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:14:33 -0800 (PST)

Find the answer to this question: Why are Mexican people and their cultural traditions considered exotic and fascinating by American tourists but labeled alien and unwelcome if the same traditions and people are found in America? Encuentra la respuesta a esta pregunta: Por qu la gente Mexicana y sus tradiciones culturales se consideran tan exticas y fascinantes para los touristas americanos y por qu las mismas causas se calificaron extraas y importunas cuando se descubrieron en los Estados Unidos?

"Worry never robs tomorrow of its sorrow, but only saps today of its strength." A. J. Cronin

Managing the Mundane Adaptndose las causas rutinarias

Walk on the shady side of the street. Camino siempre en la sombra

Hola! I like this inspiration today so thought I'd pass it along. Guess what?! A tourist stopped me last night to s...l...o....w....l....y ask me directions to the Zcalo, "Perdn, where....is....the.....Zcalo....por favor?" He thought me a Oaxaca native with no English! Too funny. I smiled at him and said "two blocks straight ahead, take a left and walk to the trees." He had a good laugh and we both parted in the night. Such fun! Adis Peggy

Cross the highway with the locals. Cruzo la carretera con los locales.

When buying fresh fruit, look for honey bees buzzing around; and dont wait until tomorrow to eat it because its ripe today. Cuando compro las frutas frescas, busco a las abejas de miel zumbando; y no espero hasta maana para comerlas porque estn maduras hoy mismo.

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13

Date:

Mon, 30 Jan 2006 09:44:15 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Watch Out for Cacti! Ouch!!

Cuando me frustran las logsticas (por ejemplo, no hay cubre asientos en la taza de los sanitarios; correr para alcanzar el camin de la basura; no agua pura o sin agua), recuerdo que voy a regresar a mi casa y la gente aqu est en su casa.

When solitude begins to resemble isolation, Go OUT! Cuando la soledad empieza a parecer aislamento, sal!

Remember that every time I form an opinion about someone, they are also forming an opinion about me. Recuerdo, que cada vez que formo una opinin de alguien, ellos tambin estn formando una opinion sobre m. It is my personal reaction that distorts humility into humiliation. Es mi reaccin personal, la distrcion de la humildad es humilacin. How I behave, for better or worse, represents my country. Como me comparto, bien o mal, representa mi pas.

Happy Monday. On Saturday there was a grand student dance performance, dance after dance. I didn't get many good shots because (a) it was dark, and (b) in trying to get a better angle, I backed into a cactus and impaled my leg so spent a good deal of the evening extracting myself from the little-but-mighty plant which didn't appreciate being stepped on! I will exercise more respect in the future, you can be sure of that! Yesterday, Sunday, was church with a booming 25 people in attendance--our top number yet outside Easter which is often the one day of the year people dust off their Sunday best and head for church. A few of us spent the entire afternoon hiking around the ancient ruins of Yagul. The hike to the top of the mountain included just me and Mary Ann (the priest with whom I am interning)-we found 3,000 year old depression in the rock which served as a bathtub and took turns squeezing into it, enjoying the view, imagining what it might have been like so many centuries ago. This morning I cheered on a march of union workers from the university--secretaries-I cheered Vive Oaxaca! They appreciated my fervor. Adis for now! Peggy

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If I want to see the beauty of the city, step through the gates and past the building walls. Eden is inside. Si deseo ver la belleza de la ciudad, doy un paso hacia los portones exteriores y cruzo las paredes de los edificios. Y el eden est adentro.

God didnt write the tourist guide books. Be open for local adventures every day. Read the walls. Posters announce the social events. Dios no escribi las guas tursticas. Busco las adventuras locales todos los das. Leo las paredes. Los carteles pblicos que anuncian los espectculos.

Managing Emotions & Behavior Adaptndose a las emociones y al comportamiento

When feeling the least charitable or the most irritable, smile more. Cuando me siento menos benvola o ms irritable, sonro mucho.

When frustrated with the logistics (i.e., no toilet seats; running to catch the trash truck at dawn; no clean water or no water period), remember I am going home and these people are home.

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Date:

Mon, 30 Jan 2006 10:03:46 -0800 (PST)

My Oaxaca LessonsMis lecciones de Oaxaca

Take [safe] Risks Se arriesga [sin peligro] When my inner voice whispers I cant do that. DO IT! Cuando mi voz interior susurra, No puedo hacer eso. Hazlo! When I know exactly how to get from point A to point B, go a different route. Cuando s como avanzar de punto A a punto B, voy a una ruta diferente.

Subject:

Word Selection

After yet another long afternoon of conjugating irregular verbs, I went on a mini-strike, announcing boldly to mi maestra, "Estoy borracha!!!" She gave me a funny look and then laughed asking me to recheck my vocabulary and try again. Seems that I meant to say "Estoy aburrida!!" which means I am bored. Estoy borracha = I am drunk!! However, if I keep having to conjugate verbs, "borracha" may soon be accurate.... Surly Student in Oaxaca, Peggy

Dont avoid street food vendors but eat where there is a crowd; standing in line is a good thing. (Caution: Sesos = brains) No evites a los vendedores de las calles pero come en donde hay una multitud; estar parada en la cola, es bueno. (una alerta: brains=sesos)

Karina (above) and Ale (right), my two Spanish teachers at Becari Language Institute, Oaxaca.

Continually scan the sidewalk ahead for potholes but keep looking up; I might see an elephant! Continuamente me fijo en la banqueta para ver los baches, pero tambin miro hacia arriba porque puedo ver un elefante!

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93

Date: Subject: Puppies to love

Mon, 5 Jun 2006 09:26:31 -0700 (PDT) Date:

Mon, 30 Jan 2006 10:23:59 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

My Exhibition Submission

"Start by doing what's necessary; then do what's possible, and suddenly you are doing the impossible." St. Francis of Assisi

Here is my submission for Exhibition Night--the annual student performance event at the school that I am still "senior principal." Lessons I've Learned in Oaxaca is the start of a possible book I'd like to publish about my time here. There are so many self-publishing opportunities now that the only thing that stands in the way of publishing my Gringa in Oaxaca is me! I also did a power point but it is too memory intensive for yahoo to mail out. For the record, my Spanish teacher, Ale, wanted me to tell you that she would prefer imperative throughout but I argued (and won--mostly) for present tense because the entire piece is framed around first person, "Yo." Plus, she is also defending herself by sharing that some of my expressions have no Spanish equivalent so "Deal with it." [that _expression was one I used that caused her some consternation!!]. Best, Peggy

Three days a week, first thing in the morning, Mary Ann and I pack a bag of puppy food and a thermos of coffee and hike to the tip-top of the hill above Oaxaca where stands a statue of the former president of Mexico, governor of Oaxaca stands proudly. We've adopted a litter of puppies--11 to be exact--and feed them as part of our trek. They are so cute now but clearly part pitbull which wouldn't encourage me to bring them all back to my room! Peggy

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Date:

Tue, 31 Jan 2006 08:57:43 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Trash Pick-Up 1A

This morning, well before sunrise, lurked my latest Oaxacan adventure: taking out the trash. The trash truck comes around the neighborhood every morning between 5:30 and 6:00 AM. The driver rings a bell signaling residents to haul bags, boxes, and buckets of trash up to the corner, about a block from where I live, for pick-up. The process reminds me of a cruise ship drill because those who answer the bell are women and children first! So, this morning, I hear the distant bell, and stumbling and bumbling, dragging several full garbage bags and one bucket loaded with empty wine and beer bottles (necessary for conjugating homework), disheveled, t-shirt on inside out, sandals flapping...Mary Ann and I make a break for the staging area--only to see the glow of red tail lights in the distance...bells ringing for another neighborhood...we missed the truck! Now what? There we stood, in the dark, miserable, clutching our buckets of empty bottles. Then, a real angel came around the corner--my Sunday trash man friend--the one whom I caught by surprise by bounding into the street in my full Sunday white! He volunteered to take all the garbage off our hands although it meant he had to make an extra trip with his laden pushcart back to his staging area--a true amigo! Regards, Peggy

usual, asked for money. Instead of resorting to my typical tactic of pretending she didnt exist, I stopped and asked why she needed money from me. She explained that their roof collapsed with the last heavy wind and her daughter was sick with no protection from the sun or rain. My hunch is the family lives in a shanty with a roof of corrugated tin and a floor of dirta very common abode for the poorest of the poor. I dug into my backpack and pulled out a five hundred peso bill ($50 US). I gave it to her with the caveat that I trusted that she would indeed replace the roof, and that henceforth I considered her a friend and friends dont ask each other for money. The look on her face and the bear hug she gave me was from the deepest pool of desperation and disbelief. Once again, I was the one humbled, totally stripped of my arrogant superiority within her raw embrace; pulled inside the heart of humanity for a fleeting moment. Last night as I was out for an evening walk with Miel, I saw her and called out a greeting. As soon as she recognized me, a smile stretched from her to me across the plaza. Her warm, genuine kiss and hug of solidarity reminded me once again that true fortune is found in relationships, not riches. She had good news to share. The roof was repaired just in time for the rainy season PLUS she had just enough money left over to buy a pair of shoes. She pointed down towards her feet and there, replacing the rags, were two-tone red and green leather sandals with bright, colorful flowers engraved into the leather. They were, without a doubt, the most beautiful shoes Ive ever seen.

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Date: Subject: Toilet Paper Fireworks

compartir. El techo se repar antes de la temporada de lluvia, ADEMS, le sobr dinero para comprar un par de zapatos. Ella seal sus pies, ah estaban, remplaz los trapos por unas sandalias de piel de dos tonos rojo y verdes con flores brillantes y alegres. Fueron, sin duda, los zapatos ms hermosos que haba visto
Mon, 6 Feb 2006 08:39:32 -0800 (PST)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Walk a Mile in Her Shoes (If She Has Any)

For weeks, I was beleaguered by a very aggressive woman who seemed to show up wherever I was, always demanding money. I would be sitting in my favorite internet caf or making a call on the public phone and she would walk right up, hand extended. I complained about her to my teachers and friends. Not once did I give money. Not once did I even make eye contact preferring to ignore her or cross the street when I saw her coming. I did notice her feet. Instead of shoes, she wrapped and tied rags around her feet. Then on Easter Sunday, something changed. That evening Miel, the parish puppy, and I were walking towards one of the local churches to take in the festivities. Like clockwork, she walked up asking for money. I politely explained that I had none with me; that it was all I could do to carry the dog. She started petting Miel and we struck up a conversation: where did she live, did she have children, etc., etc. We continued walking together and parted ways at the church. A couple of days later she, as

This is the first and last toilet paper story I will tell, promise. Saturday evening, I am returning from several hours of study at the Reading Room at Santo Domingo Church, weary and bleary-eyed. I pop unto the main house to restock my toilet paper reserves: four rolls. With one arm bracing toilet paper rolls and my other arm balancing my fully loaded backpack (which weighs probably 30 lbs: computer, camera, books, etc., etc.), I start the climb to my rooftop room. About mid-way up, I realize that something has to givethe backpack or the toilet paperall pricelessbut the stairway is too narrow and too treacherous to safely proceed. And, there waiting below, at the base of my stairway, is a muddy swamp resulting from the construction on the property. To drop the toilet paper is to lose the toilet paper. My solution? I start launching toilet paper, roll by roll, up on the roofmy version of Mexican fireworks, albeit silent ones. I wonder if any of my rooftop community neighbors caught a glimpse of the toilet paper flying through the air. All that matters is that my technique workedI didnt fall or drop my prized backpack or lose my allocation of toilet paper. Some of my most mundane Mexican adventures provide my greatest challenges and victories! Im including a photo of my

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ascending staircase so you can fully appreciate my task.

I thought this quote quite fitting:

"Far away in the sunshine are my highest inspirations. I may not reach them, but I can look up and see the beauty, believe in them and try to follow where they lead." --Louisa May Alcott

empezamos una conversacin: Dnde vive? Tiene nios? Etc. Continuamos caminando juntas, separndonos en la iglesia. Un par de das ms tarde, como usualmente, me pidi dinero. En vez de recurrir a mi tpica tctica de pretender que ella no exista, me detuve y le pregunt por qu necesitaba dinero de m. Ella me explic que su techo se rompi con el viento y que su hija estaba enferma sin la proteccin contra el sol y la lluvia. Mi idea fue que la familia viva en una choza con el techo de lmina y el piso de tierra; una casa muy comn para las personas ms pobres. Esculqu en mi mochila y saqu un billete de quinientos pesos ($50 US). Se lo di con la advertencia que confiara en que ella reparara el techo; y de hora en adelante la considerara una amiga y las amigas no nos pedimos dinero. La mirada en su cara y su abrazo de oso vinieron del embalse profundo de la desesperacin y la incredulidad. Una vez mas, fui humilde, me despoj totalmente de mi superioridad arrogante con su abrazo intenso; sent el corazn de la humanidad por un breve momento. Una noche cuando caminaba con Miel, la vi y la salud. Tan pronto como ella me reconoci, su sonrisa se extendi cruzando la plaza hacia m. Su beso clido, sincero y un abrazo de solidaridad, me recordaron que una vez ms, la verdadera fortuna se descubre en las relaciones, no en las riquezas. Tuvo buenas noticias que

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Date: Subject: Blue Danube

Mon, 6 Feb 2006 10:15:55 -0800 (PST)

Date:

Sun, 28 May 2006 17:31:53 -0700 (PDT)

Subject:

Walk a Mile in Her Shoes (if she has any)

"Past the seeker as he prayed came the crippled and the beggar and the beaten. And seeing them...he cried, "Great God, how is it that a loving creator can see such things and yet do nothing about them?"...God said, "I did do something. I made you."----Sufi Teaching

Camina una milla en sus zapatos

Por muchas semanas, una mujer muy agresiva me molestaba, la cual me pareca verla en todas partes, siempre me peda dinero. Me sentaba en mi caf de Internet o haca una llamada en el telfono pblico y se acercaba a m y extenda su mano. Me quej de ella con mis maestros y amigas. Nunca le di nada de dinero. Nunca ni siquiera hice contacto visual para ignorarla o cruzaba la calle cuando la vea. Not sus pies. En vez de zapatos, ella los cubra y ataba con trapos. Entonces en Pascua, algo cambi.

Just so you know that I am doing more than launching toilet paper or trying to keep my pants from falling down in the streets, yesterday afternoon I enjoyed the Oaxacan State Orchestra play a sampler of classic songs outside, under the enormous shade trees of the Zcalo. When they struck up Johann Strauss' famous Blue Danube, I wanted to grab the closest person and start waltzing around the plaza. I then waltzed solo a few short steps over to the Cathedral and listened to an organ concern sponsored by the Historical Organ Society of Oaxaca--a program that combined classical composers with some contemporary Latino composers. However, I finished my Sunday swizzling down Margaritas while cheering on the Seahawks against the Steelers in the Super Bowl at a local sports bar jammed with crazy Americanos! With the sad exception of my team LOSING, it was a well balanced day in Mexico for me! Best, Peggy

Esa noche, Miel, el cachorro de la parroquia y yo caminbamos hacia una de las iglesias locales para ver las actividades. Como un exacto reloj, la mujer se acerc para pedirme dinero. Cortsmente le expliqu que no traa nada de dinero; que lo nico que pude cargar, fue al perro. Comenz a acariciar a Miel y

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Date:

Thu, 9 Feb 2006 13:22:14 -0800 (PST)

all I was seeing was a piece of raw wood being carved, it was evolving into a lizard! "Be aware of wonder. Live a balanced life learn some and think some and draw and paint and sing and dance and play and work every day some." Robert Fulghum

Subject:

Colors & Parades

I struck up a conversation with a float-maker this morning on my way back to my room and took this photo of him. The float is for Mardis Gras coming up in two weeks--I try out my Spanish with my street buddies--I knew he was a good amigo because he corrected my pronunciation of fotografia! I rewarded him by dashing to my room, making a special ascent up my stairs and printing off his photo with my postcard maker. He was quite pleased and hopefully will chat with me again soon (or, maybe let me ride on his float--better!). Cheers, Peggy

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Date: Subject: Me and the Mercado

Sat, 11 Feb 2006 10:34:58 -0800 (PST)

Date:

Sat, 27 May 2006 15:48:42 -0700 (PDT)

Subject:

Eco-Alebrijes

Yesterday I had the privilege of visiting a cooperative of artists in the little village of Arrajola who are continuing the family tradition of carving colorful animal figures from wood, alebrijes. Not only are they protecting the tradition of their artisan community but they are also committed to protecting the environment. The wood they use, copal, is extremely rare and over harvested by "pirates" in the dead of night. This cooperative of artists harvest their wood on a twelve year reforestation rotation plan so the resource is replenished and sustainable. Not only did I have the honor of hearing why and how they continue to create art, but I got to try my hand at it--all the time keenly aware of not losing my hand to the machete!! That chunk of wood I'm holding is destined to be a colorful lizard! What is also interesting is that "lizard" is an animal that keeps showing up in my life right now, if all kinds of ways. I happen to believe that various animals "walk" with you to serve as spiritual guides during phases of your life. Lizard represents transformation, shedding old skin, sleeping and dreaming while blending into the natural landscape. So, pretty neat that during the presentation on Friday, while

Vegetarians may wish to skip this story: Ok, picture this. I am making my way down a narrow aisle at a market place in the outer part of the city which is HUGE!! I am lost (easy to do on your initial visit to this particular mercado) and find myself in the meat section. Coming right at me is a man pushing a cart full of water jugs--he is not about to slow down so I can get out of the aisle so my choice is to stay put but find myself as mercado "road kill" or back into piles of [dead] chickens. Well, I had no choice so I, my market bag and a thousand chicken feet are now entangled as one. This place sees relatively few "gringas" so the merchants are fascinated at my plight but make no offer to help. A friend who accompanied me that morning doubled back and helped me sort out my feet from chicken feet and off we went to the fruit and vegetable section where I did my best to avoid winding up in a pile of watermelons or papayas! Bull in a china shop. Another day in the life of "a gringa in Oaxaca!" Best, Peggy

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Date:

Mon, 13 Feb 2006 07:37:45 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Zorro Returns

Doing what is right is not always easy. It can be heart wrenching and confusing at times, but well worth it! and it takes courage to speak up, but once you take that step, you have found a new force in yourself that helps you take a stand and see it through. With the help of dedicated partners you can do anything!....Louise Laver Wisdom does not come from knowledge or DEGREES, it comes from learning from other's people wisdom..Yolanda Chang What goes up just come down is a starting point, the Ascension being a set-up for the next Sundays Pentecost when the Spirit comes down onto the people, erasing all barriers of language and love.Rev. Ernest Cockrell

Last week I waited in the government plaza, along with a growing crowd of Mexicans and indigenous peoples (many who traveled by foot or bus for days or hours) to hear the Zapatista revolutionary leader, Marcos, speak. The women in the photo, Triques, carried a large banner declaring their support for a La Otra Campaa (The Other Campaign). Their village is almost purely female because their husbands and sons are working in the United States in order for their families to survive at a subsistence level. Thirteen local leaders spoke to the crowd, some spoke in Zapotec, others in Spanish. I'm sure if you Google Marcos and Zapatistas you will find lots of information on him and photos of him and the hood he wears to cover his facea modern day Zorro the hero of the poor. My favorite snapshot is of the young boy who climbed a tree in order to see Marcos over the crowd. I immediately thought of the popular story in the New Testament about a young man by the name of Zacchaeus who, because he is short, climbs a tree in order to catch a glimpse of Jesus over the crowd. Peggy

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closed minds. Rather, could we go through our day with an open mind and heart? That is the power we can give to others. They are empowered by our gift of love..Beth Taylor

It seems health issues are strong in my head lately. I went walking this morning and as I walked I realized how greatful I was to move about on my own two legs and enjoy the beauty of the morning, the wonders of God's creation that I never observe or see as I drive by in a hurry to get someplace. I see other friends paralyzed from strokes and limited because of bad health or having eye problems and I realize how precious our body and mind are and how strong yet fragile we can be. How good health can be limited or out of commission so in a matter of seconds!! I appreciate each day - I appreciate what I can see and hear and touch and move to and what I can ponder and think about. My wants and needs seem much less because I am really blessed with so much!!!! Good health is a great gift!!!...........Gerry Chartrand

My mantra continues to be the best i can do is all i can do and in the end i am fine with that. BIG UPS to you this sunday i send my spirit to be with yours and just let them know that you present to them with the added power of many from your home that send their love to them through the power that is YOU.Jerome Flowers

TRUST.Rocio Valdovinos

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Date:

Mon, 13 Feb 2006 10:00:03 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Classic & Pop Culture

will compile your [brief] responses and share them with the Oaxaca Holy Trinity congregation this week. Thank you for contributing insights now that the end of my Mexican stay is in sight. Preacher Peggy Responses: While looking for photos of my favorite aunt who will be 92 tomorrow, it hit me that I really have had a wonderful life. Things haven't always turned out the way I might have planned, but all the people I've known, the places I've been and the experiences I've had combine to make the last 46 years pretty incredible. And look at that, I'm exactly half the age of my Auntie Beth. Wonder what my reflections will be 46 years from now...........Cathy Holley The hard bone of life is inexplicably filled with the soft and infinite 'marrow'--- which is God. Change is essential and manifests that which is best in us. But change is a scouring and is hard all the same.Kate Avraham

Along with politics, shopping, and studying Spanish, you can add culture to my list of Oaxacan treats. Friday I attended an art opening of a local Anglo artist who used North American cave etchings as the inspiration for her work. Saturday night I hiked up to the auditorium built on the hill, overlooking the city lights and under the glow of a full moon, rocked out to three Oaxaquea performers. There were two female singers, Eugenia Len and Lila Downs (blessed with a voice from heaven) and a final actCelsa Pia who rocked the house with his accordion of all things! Sunday night I got wind of a classical guitar concert by Japanese composer and guitarist Atsuasa Nakabayashi held at the most incredibly beautiful Teatro Macedonia Alcal. There is a virtual tour available online worth viewing:

http://www.oaxacamio.com/360/teatro_macedonioalc ala/teatro_macedonio_alcala.html

Lila Downs was involved with the music for the movie, Frida and Nakabayashi composed the music for Gregory Pecks classic The Old Man and the Sea. Now, I need to watch both films! Just to reassure you that I am not getting carried away, I watched the Simpsons in Spanish

From the beginning, you have been present there, available and unafraid. The greeting with the garbage man , the children, the people in the store, and, of course, the 'cardboard lady' were all times when you were present and in the moment. Listening, observing and accepting were the gifts that you brought to people where ever you went. That seems so simple, but how many time do we go through life not really seeing those near by us. We go with expectations and judgments and

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Date:

Thu, 25 May 2006 18:50:06 -0700 (PDT)

Subject:

In-Sights Please

one evening! I'm attaching a photo I took last night--full moon illuminating the facade of Santo Domingo Church with a group of people enjoying a huge telescope brought out by a local "sidewalk astronomer." Peggy

"We must dare to think "unthinkable" thoughts. We must learn to explore all the options and possibilities that confront us in a complex and rapidly changing world." James William Fulbright

I will be delivering my third sermon this coming Sunday. For my first sermon, I spoke from two pages of notes copiously covering the Old and New Testament readings, culminating in a story of marching in a local processional on the evening of Easter Sunday. My point: experiencing a simple but not simplistic faith. Last week, feeling much more comfortable, I spoke extemporaneously relating a story from my childhood about coloring in a picture of Jesus with Supermans S --segueing to the distinction between power and love. This Sunday I am in charge of the entire service since Mary Ann, the presiding priest is attending to a family emergency in Texas. In lieu of a sermon, Im going to offer a Quaker-style alternative where whomever is so moved may offer their insights and reflections for the good of the order. I now open my servicetwo days early: what wisdom percolating in your minds and hearts would you care to share?! On any topic weighing on you...not necessarily religious. Unless you say not to, I

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Date:

Mon, 13 Feb 2006 15:39:48 -0800 (PST)

The miracle is not to fly in the air, or to walk on the water, but to walk on the earth. --Chinese Proverb As for me, I know nothing else but miracles, Whether I walk the streets of Oaxaca, Or dart my sight over the roofs of houses toward the sky, Or wade with naked feet along the beach just in the edge of the water, Or stand under the trees in the woods, Or talk by day with any one I love, Or sleep in bed at night with any one I love, Or watch honey bees busy around the hive of a summer forenoon... Or the wonderfulness of the sundown, Or of stars shining so quiet and bright, Or the exquisite delicate thin curve of the new moon in spring... What stranger miracles are there? --Walt Whitman

Subject:

And the Blind See

Over the past four weeks two teams of USA medical doctors have held open clinics for children suffering with cleft palate and for all people, adults and children, with vision problems. The optometric team fitted over 1,000 people with glasses just last week. The glasses were collected via donations to the Lion's Clubs around the western states. One little Downs Syndrome boy, nearly blind, was fitted with glasses--when he realized that he could see for the first time in his young life, he clapped his hands, laughed out loud and hugged his mother. The team was reduced to liquid! Thanks be to God for the medical volunteers: doctors, nurses, speech therapists, opticians, etc. So, when you see a plea for donating your old glasses--know they really do open up the world for someone else. Mary Ann is assisting in providing translation support between the medical teams and the patients. Best, Peggy

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Date: Subject: Happy Valentine's Day

Thu, 25 May 2006 12:49:47 -0700 (PDT) Date:

Tue, 14 Feb 2006 11:15:14 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Foot Traffic

One ah-ha I've received in Oaxaca has come from my feet. In California I jump in my truck and drive any number of places to run errands, shop, etc. Then, at night I drive to the local track and log two miles of walking for exercise. I now recognize the silly irony in that habit! In Mexico, of course, I do not have access to a car. I walk and walk and then walk some more. I tote along large colorful baskets to carry home my groceries or other wares. I've learned by watching the locals to stick to the shady side of the street. I have not learned from the locals how to balance things on my head or how to ride a burro. In general, my rule of thumb is to walk unless the destination point is beyond 3 miles; then I take a bus. Waking up each morning depending on my feet as transportation is quite a paradigm shift and one I hope to keep intact when I return home. Below are some of my favorite walking quotes including one [modified] poem of Walt Whitman. Pedestrian Peggy

Hi everyone. Hola from Oaxaca! I persuaded a young man who was selling Valentine's balloons on the street, to take a picture of me holding the balloons so I could send you all a special greeting from Mexico. Happy Valentine's Day! Love, Peggy

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Date:

Tue, 14 Feb 2006 15:55:43 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

My Street Kids

*Tequio --an indigenous value--refers to the practice of lifelong community service for the benefit of the whole, while simultaneously guaranteeing individual rights and responsibilities. Taken from Community Links web site: www.commlinks.org

"We taste and feel and see the truth. We do not reason ourselves into it." William Butler Yeats

Allow me to introduce my three newest friends, Jose Antonio, Miguel Angel, and Luis Enrique. This week I started volunteering for an organization that provides support (food, clothes, and school supplies) to "street kids," the poorest of the poor trying to make a life in the city. I am using photography as my offering of time to these kids--who trust no one (for good reason). This week I introduced them to my digital camera and then turned them loose to snap a few pictures which we immediately downloaded into my computer and turned into a slide show. I have a ways to go with them because their favorite photo this week was of a 4-year old girl who was on the losing end of a preschool sand war! Todays quote perfectly sums up what I hope to accomplish over the next few months with "my kids." Send me good energy! Peggy

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Date: Subject: Street Trees

Thu, 25 May 2006 10:24:00 -0700 (PDT) Date:

Mon, 27 Feb 2006 10:53:52 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Mountain of Clothes

"How lovely to think that no one need wait a moment, we can start now, start slowly changing the world! How lovely that everyone, great and small, can make their contribution toward introducing justice straightaway... And you can always, always give something, even if it is only kindness!" Anne Frank

Earlier this week I went along with two student groups from Notre Dame and Georgetown Universities on a visit to the largest food bank in Oaxaca. In the spirit of tequio* we spent two plus hours sorting donated clothes. Our goal: to organize and reduce the mountain of plastic bags crammed with clothing. At first I felt like I was in the department store version of Wall Street with everyone shouting out "Men's Shirt" or "Women's Skirt" or "Boy's Pants" and bits and pieces of "ropa" flying everywhere. But, when we lined up as a human chain, passing bag after bag assembly line fashion, ultimately reforming the black plastic bag mountain (from floor to ceiling in the warehouse), I identified less with a Wall Street trader and more with Sisyphus!

Today I took my "street kids" out for our weekly photo fun. My directive was to take pictures of trees within the confines of one block around the facility. I encouraged them to "look up" because we miss so much of life by staying focused on what is straight ahead. Instantly, their favored position was to shoot a picture while sprawled flat on the sidewalk focusing up at the sky, When we got back, I had them select their favorite picture. The one they liked best was of the sun shining through the tree. Thought I'd share the picture along with a poem that captured the moment for me. Spend a day looking more up than down and you will be surprised at what you see. Best, Peggy

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"Morning" by Clinton Lee Scott

Date: Subject: Spanish Team Sun, 21 May 2006 07:41:05 -0700 (PDT)

Hola to all! Friday was my "graduation" from Spanish studies and Saturday my team of teachers surprised me by showing up at the front gate and taking me out to dinner. From left: Ale, me, Karina, Alfonso, and Manuel. They were the greatest quartet--most of the weeks I had Ale for conversation and Karina for grammar. Not ONCE did they make me feel incompetent or silly; and, I had fun teaching them some of our more interesting idioms. Now, the trick is to internalize the quote below--in English AND Spanish. Peace, Peggy "The real art of conversation is not only to say the right thing at the right place, but to leave unsaid the wrong thing at the tempting moment." Lady Dorothy Nevill

From the East comes the sun, Bringing a new and unspoiled day. It has already circled the Earth and Looked upon distant lands and Far-away peoples. It has passed over mountain ranges and The waters of the seven seas. It has shown upon laborers in the fields, Into the windows of homes, And shops, and factories. It has beheld cities with gleaming towers, And also the hovels of the poor. It has been witness to both good and evil, The works of honest men and women and The conspiracy of knaves. It has seen marching armies, bomb-blasted villages And "the destruction that wasteth at noonday." Now, unsullied from its tireless journey, It comes to us, Messenger of the morning. Harbinger of a new day.

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governments around the world would drop balloons rather than bombs! Ojal!
Date: Subject: Mardis Gras: mi esposa por un dia Mon,27 Feb 2006 10:47:04 -0800 (PST)

Hoy es un da especial por los cristianos en del mundo. Nosotros lo llamamos el dia Martes gordo [Fat Tuesday] o un nombre ms popular es Mardis Gras. Mardis Gras es el ultimo da antes de la Cuaresma. Tradicionalmente, la gente se aprovecha del da con las fiestas incluso bebiendo mucho, comiendo, y comportndose tonta y loca. Anoche, mis amigos y yo manejamos a Zaachila para ver la celebracin de Mardis Gras. Escuchamos que el espectculo en Zaachila es grande. Cuando llegamos a Zaachila, muchas personas se sentaban en las gradas mirando los bailarines ambos tradicionales y contemporneos. Los bailarines contemporneos son hombres se vistieron como las mujeres. Un hombre muy viejo y muy borracho me pidi matrimonio. Primero, yo no lo comprend as contesto si. Cuando mi amiga, Denise, me dice, Tu acabas de aceptar ser su esposa, nos remos y yo le di mi collar de las cuentas moradas. Mardis Gras es un da loco verdaderamente. Mardis Gras: My Spouse for a Day Today is a special day for Christians around the world. We call this day Fat Tuesday or another name more popular is Mardis Gras. Mardis Gras is the first day of

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Date: Subject: Global Globos

Fri, 19 May 2006 07:49:56 -0700 (PDT)

Lent. Traditionally, people mark this day with parties which include a lot of drinking, eating, and acting silly and crazy. Tonight, my friends and I are driving to Zaachila to see the celebration because we hear that it is a great event. When we arrived at Zaachila, many people were sitting in the grandstands watching traditional and contemporary dancers. The contemporary dancers were men dressed as women. One man, old and very drunk, made me an offer of marriage. First, I didnt understand what he was asking so I answered, yes. When my friend, Denise, said to me, You just agreed to become his wife we all laughed and I gave him a set of purple beads. Mardis Gras really is a crazy day! "The power of imagination makes us infinite." John Muir

One of my favorite evening activities is to stroll to the Zcalo, the central plaza of town, settle into a park bench and watch while kids of all ages bat globos into the air, running to catch them before they hit the pavement. These cylindrical shaped balloons defy gravity. Ive seen some blasted so high that the massive tree limbs towering over the plaza are the winners of the capture-the-globo competition. While the kids run and play, parents and grandparents visit with friends and family; munch on corn-on-the-cob dusted with chili; play chess; dance to the state marimba band; laugh and cheer at street theater; the sense of community pulls everyone in, visitors and residents alike. No one is either strange or a stranger. When in Texas last week I took my 2 year old grandson, Tyler (see photo), to the park to play catch with a Blues Cube globo I brought from Oaxaca. Workers driving home from neighborhood construction sites slowed down and smiled; a taco truck driver leaned far out her window and waved; Texans walking dogs and riding bikes did smiling double-takes at our balloon launch.a miniature Zcalo community was transported to Houston. Wouldnt it be great if

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Date: Subject: Small Victories

(well, maybe not the clerk in the Piticoe bakery but I still have a month!). I'm not sure what it is exactly that erodes the walls of suspicion...but knowing it is possible on the most micro level--between two people--gives me HOPE that it is possible to accomplish it on the macro level--between nations--global peace--a lofty goal, indeed, but NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE! Much love & affection, Peggy
Thu, 2 Mar 2006 10:59:36 -0800 (PST)

Hola! On Monday I was feeling like I couldn't possibly keep my current pace up but today I'm back with more confidence. Why? Little victories: I actually tossed trash into the garbage truck for the first time; and, whistled down the water man and bought three bottles of water. Bigger challenges: I officiated at the Ash Wednesday service by myself last night because the priest, Mary Ann is in Texas (and I did not get ashes into anyone's eyes!) and I met with the three prison groups solo--one prisoner told me that my Spanish was getting much better! Plus, I survived an amazing thunder and lightening storm that rocked the city at 1:30 this morning-there is something good to living on the roof. Keep in mind ALWAYS that the small things build gusto and confidence for the bigger challenges. All too often we shrug off our small victories....DON'T. Take care, Peggy "When you have a great and difficult task, something perhaps almost impossible, if you only work a little at a time, every day a little, suddenly the work will finish itself." Isak Dinesen

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Date: Subject: Hi y'all

Sun, 12 Mar 2006 13:03:53 -0800 (PST) Date:

Mon, 8 May 2006 09:45:06 -0700 (PDT)

Subject:

Place Value Matters

We must not, in trying to think about how we can make a big difference, ignore the small daily differences we can make which, over time, add up to big differences that we often cannot foresee. Marian Wright Edelman* Just a note to let you all know that I am visiting my family in Texas this week; So, for now I'm trading in Buenos Dias for Hey Y'all until saddling up and heading back to Mexico on Sunday for my final month.

I'm back from an "interesting" trip to the state of Vera Cruz where I stayed a few days at a Jesuit Retreat Center, sleeping in a cot that certainly had to provide a resting place for Father Serra centuries back. And, I look like an "after" picture for someone who DID NOT use mosquito repellant. I look like I have chicken pox! (What's the story about malaria down here??) I added a few words from the Zapotec language to my vocabulary! That was fun. This quote fits the bill for me these days as I'm now stepping out of the security of the Mexican culture into the indigenous world. I snapped a photo of a statue in front of the government building. Looks like Ponce de Leon should have been looking for the fountain of youth in Xalapa, Vera Cruz.

"If we don't change, we don't grow. If we don't grow, we are not really living. Growth demands a temporary surrender of security." Gail Sheehy

I like this quote because as a "big idea" person, I've humbly discovered in Mexico that the arbitrary but ever so resilient boundaries of race, economics, class, gender, language...recede into the background time after time as "relationship" is the point of contact between me and "strangers." The BIG IDEAS of respect, trust, and PEACE are gained, person-by-person, in authentic and sincere dialogue (authentic=listening more than speaking). I think it is especially interesting that the more I struggle and sweat it out within conversations, grasping to make sense in Spanish, the more people appear willing to let down their guard. Not even once have I been turned away in disappointment--people always respond eventually to my overtures of friendship

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Date: Subject: Fisticuff Fiesta

Thu, 4 May 2006 13:07:25 -0700 (PDT) Date:

Tue, 21 Mar 2006 15:03:29 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Day Without an Immigrant

Monday was a big holiday in Mexico--their annual Labor Day plus support for their American counterparts. Thought you might enjoy a few photos I snapped. It was suggested that Americans stay away from the demonstrations but I don't accept that as an answer towards improving relationships between our two countries. As a tourist, you are not allowed to show any political interests or you could be deported...but offering a smile, so far at least, isn't considered a political act.

"There is a sense of exhilaration that comes from facing head-on the hard truths and saying, 'We will never give up. We will never capitulate. It might take a long time, but we will find a way to prevail.'" Jim Collins

What I thought was going to be a grand fiesta today turned out to be a lesson in Mexican politics. Five of us (2 Australians, 2 Americans, and 1 Mexican) jammed into a jeep early this morning winding 60 kilometers up (10,000 foot level) to the tiny village of Guelatao, the birth home of Oaxacao native son and former Mexican president, Benito Jurez. National holiday festivities today commemorate his bicentennial birthday. Jurez, pure Zapotec, is revered especially by the indigenous people. There is great turmoil within Mexico (mirrored by the Zapatistas in Chiapas) due to a history of oppression towards the indigenous. This being a year for national elections has ratcheted up the anger, especially in rural regions. This is background to help frame what happened next. We arrived just as President Fox was airlifting out flanked by a trio of helicopters. On ground level what appeared to be the entire Mexican legislator began exiting the outdoor auditorium four or five abreast down a narrow pedestrian walkway. Before I and my friends could get our bearings (were innocently looking around for the dance area), a surge of humanity rolled directly toward us. Uriel instantly sized up the situation and pulled me back from the main crush but we lost sight of our friends. Uriel and I remained helplessly

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pinned against a wall watching the politicians being showered with obscenities and rotten fruit. Fortunately, the bureaucrats had enough sense to keep moving. One beleaguered young politico who took an orange square in his back did pivot and glare. I held my breath and muttered uh oh to Uriel because I felt it would take just one retaliatory action to incite the hostile crowd to serious violence. Marching directly behind the politicians were machine-gun toting soldiers (with bugles in one hand, guns in the other!!) so I was greatly relieved when the young dignitary wisely decided to swallow his pride and keep walking. The exodus of politicians and soldiers finally thinned providing room to regroup at the banks of the beautiful spring-fed, natural lagoon and swap stories of what wed each seen from our different vantage points. The only casualty turned out to be one of my earrings! Maybe this type of public interaction is typical for Mexico and their legislators are accustomed to orange pulp assaults, but admittedly each of us were pretty wide-eyed. Another day in Mexico! Whew.

of Mitla but sells shawls on Cinco de Mayo Street near my house. While we were talking, two women asked me for money. I said to Adela that it is impossible for me to give money to everyone who begs in the streets of Oaxaca. There are too many. She responded (in Spanish), Please, understand. They beg because they have nothing to give. They have nothing to give because everything has been taken away. Later that day, I went to find the woman in the box. She wasnt there. Her box was torn up and piled next to the trash can. I remembered the words of Adela, They have nothing to give because everything has been taken away. I cut a piece of cardboard from the box to remind me of Adelas wisdom and of the desperate lives everywhere.

Benito Jurez March 21, 1806 - July 18, 1872 El respecto al derechos ajenos es la paz Respect for the rights of all is peace

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Oaxaca. Hay demasiados. Ella me contest, Entienda, por favor. Ellos mendigan porque no tienen nada que dar. Ellos no tienen nada que dar porque todo se lo han quitado. Ms tarde, fui a buscar a la mujer de la caja de cartn. Ella no estaba ah. Su cartn fue derribado y amontonado cerca del bote de la basura. Record las palabras de Adela. Ellos no tienen nada que dar porque todo se lo han quitado. Cort un pedazo del cartn para recordar la sabidura de Adela y las vidas desesperadas por todas partes.

The cardboard box On the sidewalk of a street near the city center is a cardboard box. Inside the box lives an elderly woman. I pass her almost every day; sometimes I slow down and even stop. She sits. I stand. She never looks up and I dont look down. We dont look at each other but in realty we know each other. We are both women; we both have been children; and probably we are both mothers. We feel pain and joy; we want our lives to be happy and meaningful. We hope that when we die, we will be missed. Then, why dont we look or speak to each other? She isnt invisible. Im not a mute. Somewhere, wedged in that space between the woman and me, is the meaning of faith. Therein lurks both a question and an answer. The question is clear but the answer isnt easy. What should I do? Give her money? Food? Supportive words? Prayers? I need an answer. Yesterday, while walking to my room, I stopped and chatted with my friend, Adela, who lives in the tiny town

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Date: Subject: La caja de cartn (en espaol)

Sat, 29 Apr 2006 10:29:00 -0700 (PDT)

Date:

Thu, 23 Mar 2006 12:56:06 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Play Ball!

La caja de cartn En la banqueta de una calle cerca del Zcalo hay una caja de cartn. Dentro de esa caja vive una mujer anciana. Fuera de esa caja vivo yo. Ella est sentada. Yo estoy de pie. Ella nunca mira hacia arriba y yo no miro hacia abajo. Nunca nos miramos, pero en realidad nos conocemos. Somos ambas mujeres, ambas hijas y probablemente somos madres. Sentimos el dolor y la alegria; queremos que nuestras vidas sean felices y significativas. Deseamos que cuando muramos, nos echen mucho de menos. Entonces, por qu nunca nos miramos o hablamos ? Ella no es invisible. Yo no soy muda. En alguna parte dentro de esa mujer y yo, afuera de la caja, existe el sentido de la fe. Aqu hay una pregunta y una respuesta. La pregunta es clara pero la respuesta no es fcil. Qu debo hacer? Le deber algo de dinero? Comida? Palabras de apoyo? Oraciones?. Es necesario que yo encuentre la respuesta. Ayer, al caminar a mi cuarto, me par y charl con mi amiga Adela que vive in Mitla, un pueblo pequeo, ella vende rebozos en la calle Cinco de Mayo cerca de mi casa. Mientras hablbamos, dos mujeres me pidieron dinero. Le dije a Adela que era imposible darle dinero a cada mendigo que anda por las calles de

I forgot to mention in my e-mail about the event where I watched Mexican politicians pelted with rotten fruit and soldiers marching by with machine guns--I proudly was wearing my new official Sherman Oaks t-shirt. If I'm going down...I'm going down as a global member of the Sherman Oaks family! Today I am wearing a Guerreros baseball team t-shirt. A group of us cheered on the local team last night for the season opener. By the way, "Play Ball" in Spanish is....."Play Ball." If you don't believe me, I'm sending Cathy the sports section which runs that headline. I've attached a couple of pictures--the only difference between baseball at home and here is that at home you can't buy homemade tamales from a Zapotec woman who brings her steaming pot right into the stands! Peggy

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Date: Subject: Hell's Bells

and twist machine back inside, through two doorways and up one level of cement steps; (7) Repeat steps 1-6; (8) Repeat steps 1-6 but dont use soapthis is purely a rinse cycle. Once you are satisfied (and I use that word very loosely), it is time to wring the water out of each item, one at a timegives a whole new meaning to wash by hand. Squeeze, twist, squeeze, twist. Next hang up the clothes on the two lines strung up adjacent to the main house. Once dry, take the clothes down off the line and marvel at how very stiff they are. In fact, the Fire Department could use this self-serve laundry approach because pants, shirts, etc. could simply be stood up next to the bed for quick dressing. Every piece of clothing could pass as a plaster cast sculpture. Very artistic. You are free to ask me when I will do my laundry again, but allow me to beat you to the punch: NEVER!! Ill take my chances with the laundry service and keep closer tabs on the dog.
Mon, 27 Mar 2006 08:41:08 -0800 (PST)

Within a four block radius of my room, there are at least five of the twenty colossal-sized Roman Catholic churches that are located in Oaxaca City. As of this past Sunday, I am convinced that, during Lent, various priests participate in a parish competition to see who can ring their bells the earliest, the loudest, and the longesta brass-and-crash morning crescendo. Starting at 5:45 am Sunday, in unison, Carmen Alto and Santo Domigo led the airways with clanging and banging to rouse up the [soundly] sleeping neighborhood to my west. Within minutes, Our Lady Guadalupe, to the north, not only met the bell challenge but answered with a series of cherry bombs that exploded with enough racket to wake not only the living but the dead! Not to be outdone, San Matias Jalatlaco, to the east, opened fire with their firecrackers, cherry bombs, and colonial era church bells. Next up, the Cathedral, La Sangre de Cristo, and Soledad Basilica to the south joined the cacophony with their pealing of bells and explosion of fireworks. Weve just recently experienced a daily diet of thunder, lightening and rain so with impeccable timing and, as if to say, NO ONE OUT DOES ME! the sky was split in half with a zagged bolt of lightening followed by a fierce clap of thunder ending the contest. My scorecard reads: The Angels 1. The Padres 0!

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Date: Date: Subject: Where is my Maytag?! Sat, 22 Apr 2006 15:31:52 -0700 (PDT)

Wed, 29 Mar 2006 10:59:07 -0800 (PST)

Subject:

Healing Touch

Today at our weekly prison visit, the women (we serve 67 of the more than 50+ who are incarcerated) were a combination of sick and/or depressed. I can only imaginespring is in the air and they face day-after-day, year-after-year in a concrete box that does not invite any sort of celebration of life. Most have families they never see and may never see again. I decided that today was a good time to announce that in one of my other lives I am a practicing massage therapist. I asked if of them would like me to work on their shoulders and neck and, in an instant, the women were pulling off their sweaters and coats, tucking their braids into their shirts and lining up to take advantage of my offer. So, while Mary Ann went ahead with the prayers for Eucharist, I worked on as many women as I could fit into the approximately 30 minutes we allow for our visit (see photo below). I wont take credit for breaking down the raw pain and isolation these women face.but the gift of touch did brighten up their prison yard for a moment in time.

Down here laundry in general is done for you. Take in your bag full of dirty clothes and wedge the bag into a scale hanging over the counter. Your bill is by the kilo (10-12 pesos per kilo/90 cents-$1.00 USA). In January I started out with four pair of cotton pants, six t-shirts, a weeks worth of undergarments, one nightgown and four towels. As a result of laundry loss (No, I dont recall seeing any towels with your order) and puppy Miel appropriating my linens as her personal chew toys, I now have three pairs of pants, undergarments for five days, shreds of one-half nightgown, and one towel. That is it. Lest my return trip home in June be a page out of the Emperors New Clothes, I recently resolved to wash my own laundry. Mary Ann owns an agitator which is a metal barrel mounted on four tiny rollers. The nuance is that the agitator has to be manually drained which means unplugging it and wrestling it outside into the yard where the gray water can be dumped into a hole in the ground. For you linear types, here is the sequence: (1) fill agitator with water using hose; (2) add soap; (3) plug in for automatic thrashing; (4) unplug and roll, push, pull and twist the machine from the laundry room to the yard; (5) connect the hose and aim the water into the hole, dodging muddy backsplashes; (6) roll, push, pull,

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Date: Subject: Things we take for granted

so this is a double climb), wrestle off the top of the tinaco (container that holds water) to make sure it is empty. Occasionally, water flow is a function of the tinaco pump needing a restart, not lack of water. Once outside in the blistering sun, the other trick is to move FAST before I harden and am locked into mud armor-- reminiscent of the poor rusty Tin Man in the Wizard of Oz. I might be immobilized until a rainfall washes me free, and since the rains arent due until June, that isnt a reasonable option. After ascertaining that the tinaco is indeed emptyI retreat down the ladder and stairs.slosh, slosh, sloshover to the cistern, turn on the pump and transfer enough water to provide me with a second, dirtfree shower. Another victory!
Thu, 30 Mar 2006 18:10:25 -0800 (PST)

I know many of you contributed toiletries for the men and women at the prison. A friend and I carefully sorted and made up individual bags filled with an assortment of shampoo, soap, and lotions (all the things you leave behind in hotels). One older female inmate accepted her bag and immediately rushed over to a friend where I could see, out of the corner of my eye, they were turning each item over and over in their hands with great wonder. You have to understand that in the prison the women receive one meal a day period; everything else must be purchased out of their own fundsif they have no family to help, tough luck. The men receive two meals a day gratis but the same rules applyif you want more, pay for it. The men are able to make money by sewing together soccer balls, but the women have no source of business income. Instead of distributing individual bags to the ten or twelve men we see weekly, we always give the bounty to Antonioel jefe (the leader) and he doles it out to his compaeros. When I gave Antonio the toiletries, the other men--they come in all sizesshort, tall, heavy, skinny, tattooshuddled around Antonio but they insisted that I tell him twice Antonio, you must share. They were just like little kids wanting insurance of fairness and waiting excitedly for their tiny bottles of shampoo and lotion. The one

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Date: Subject: AGUA, POR FAVOR

gentleman, Oscar, who received a new pair of tennis shoes, was so moved that he ping-ponged between tears and an ear-to-ear grin. He let me snap a picture of him (below) after he pulled on his shoes. So, thank you for your donations! Little things are HUGE to those who have nothing.
Thu, 20 Apr 2006 09:35:32 -0700 (PDT)

"Life is not the way it's supposed to be. It's the way it is. The way you cope with it is what makes the difference." Virginia Satir Living in Oaxaca City, Ive come to develop a keen appreciation of water. This area is suffering through a drought and occasionally the city water gods turn off the pipeline causing a flotilla of tanker trucks to roll through the streets manually filling cisterns (big holding tanks in the ground). No one drinks tap water; a purer form is bought off the streets from young men who peddle special 3-wheeled cargo bicycles up and down the streets yelling AGUA! AGUA! When I hear their street advertisement, I dash outside and unleash my Sierra summer time-to-bring-the-dogs-home whistle. It never fails to stop them in their tracks. Then for 30 to 50 pesos, I trade in my empty water cooler bottles for full ones. But, for bathing, city water suffices. The trick is to avoid showering when the city system is low because you emerge from the shower looking like the creature from the dark lagoon, coated with muddy grit. This morning was one of those days when I morphed into mud woman. First I climb a ladder on top of my roof (remember my room is already on another persons roof

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Date: Subject: School Visit

your way across the city. Tacos, memelas (like tacos but thicker), tlayudas (pizza-like dish), chili rellenoseach corn tortilla is formed, pressed and grilled right in front of you on a comal heated red hot over wood coals, stuffed with fresh Oaxacan cheese, chorizo con papas (spicy sausage cooked with potatoes) and smothered in mole and topped with squash blossomstamales steamed in banana leaves. fresh, sweet pineapples, papayas, watermelons, and mangos effortlessly sliced and bagged in whatever combination you desiredcaf de la olla (coffee brewed with cinnamon and sugar in a clay jug) Near midnight, we were sitting outside one of the biggest churches in townSoledad Basilicasavoring old-fashioned handcranked coconut ice cream. Thirty minutes later I was eyeing pancakes covered with a thick sugar and cream syrup, but Cathy said NO MAS so we headed home leaving the streets yet crammed full of families enjoying a community event of faith [and food]. For the record, we visited 12 churches! I would say I caught a glimpse of heaven that night, but that is an understatement. I was in heaven.
Fri, 31 Mar 2006 09:58:21 -0800 (PST)

Earlier this week Mary Ann and I hopped a colectivo (a taxi that is licensed to only travel roundtrip between a central staging area in the city to outlaying villages, pueblos. That experience in and of itself is worth a separate description but suffice to say at one point, crammed with four other people in the cab, hurtling down the two-lane road, passing on the right, on the left, on blind curves I sought reassurance from Mary Ann as to our odds of survival. Once at our destination.45 minutes out of the citywe were dropped off on the side of the road and then walked another 45 minutes along a dusty road through corn fields, passing burros, horses, and chickens, to the tiny two-room school tucked at the base of a hill. During the rainy season, I cant envision slogging through the mudbut that is what the teachers do to reach the school. A church group from Chicago is coming down in July to offer their services to complete a volunteer project at this school and we were the advance team, meeting with the two teachers to solicit their ideas. The kids were divided into two classesyounger and st th older (looked like maybe 1 grade to 5 and 50 or 60 children). I was able to quickly count the number of books in the library37all donated through a project at the English Lending Library (gathering place for Canadian and American expatriates) back in the city.

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Date: Subject: Soul Food

Fri, 21 Apr 2006 09:23:08 -0700 (PDT)

There is one old computer which is of a vintage predating Sherman Oaks. It is being moved to the director/teachers office because it is all he has for his work and he is afraid it will break if the children use it. I spotted a couple of calculators and very old work books. Some student work was on display in the classroom of the younger children that suggested a lesson on vocabulary. At recess the kids kicked around plastic bottles in lieu of balls. A couple of mothers were grilling tortillas on an open fire to sell to the children who had a peso or two for a snack. The students were all smiles and anxious to ask my name and introduce themselves. I surprised the class of older children (the teacher stepped out to talk with Mary Ann) and instantly turned into Principal Peggy to reprimand one boy who was taking advantage of his moment of freedom by tossing wads of paper at a girl across the room. Kids are kids. School is schoolno matter where. Thinking of all the bountiful resources stuffed behind the white boards at Sherman Oaks or in closets.made me long for one wish: to transport our extras/unwanted to this school, these children and teachers. But, alasthat would be too difficult with the cost of shipping so I will do my part by contributing some books to the Lending Library book collectionand appreciating my personal and professional abundance!

Holy Week in Oaxaca is full of homegrown traditions. On Thursday night, the faithful (which as best I could tell included toda el mundoEVERYBODYin and about the city), visit seven churches. Cathy and I started out Thursday evening with a 7:30 PM baseball game. After all, baseball is religion to some people! After polishing off three of the best empanadas in town (the baseball stadium empanadas are even listed in tour books), we left two hours later with the hopes of catching the tail end of the church visits. To our delight and surprise, things were just getting started. For the next three hours, doubled blessed by a full equatorial moon, we zig-zagged around the city streets, joining throngs of people, young and old, visiting churches. Each church took painstaking, meticulous efforts to create creative altars thematic for Holy Week, and each church was packed, PACKED with people moving in, reciting prayers, and moving out. Special chapels within the centuries old colonial churches were opened for the evening; awesome gold and silver brilliance etched into every inch, from floor to ceiling; ivory statues inlaid with jewels; multicolored tapestries and murals; all earned the right to be appreciated from your knees. Springing up around each church were temporary markets with so many different types of foods that you could easily eat

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blessings of faith, action, and love. When I come home in June, I will be different. I already am. Paz! Peggy

"You may never know what results come from your action. But if you do nothing, there will be no result." Mahatma Gandhi

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Date: Subject: Pascua en Oaxaca

Fri, 31 Mar 2006 10:20:11 -0800 (PST) Date:

Wed, 19 Apr 2006 15:26:10 -0700 (PDT)

Subject:

Critters that scuttle, slither or swing

My room is a quite comfortable concrete and plaster box plopped on the roof of the main house. The main house sits a goodly ways from the street and three other apartments are currently being restored on the property. The combination of construction, heat and rain has caused quite a flurry of activity in animal land. Once dusk eases into darkness and the work crew head for home, an army of cockroaches emerge. This would be of no real interest to me except that I often am moving about myself after dark. Some nights when Im coming in particularly late, I actually have to stop and mentally calculate the safest stepping route around, over and between the giant bugs. The obvious problem is: they move and if one of those brittle beasts scuttles over my toes, my unearthly shrieks will add to the nightly cacophony of blasting horns, howling dogs, blaring music, wailing alarms, and shattering fireworks. My current strategy is to choose a discarded brick off the rubble heap and launch it strategically into the midst of the territory held by the insect mercenaries which clears out a narrow pathway for me to explode acrossto safe haven of the ladder that a climb to my room. Once inside, I am welcomed home by a congenial family of daddy- longlegs whose webs form an artistic maze

Easter night, with the churchs puppy Miel firmly tucked into her doggy pack, the two of us hiked up to Carmen Alto Catholic Church where I planned to watch an Easter processional. Instantly, I was issued a symbolic white flag and sage clipping and for two and a half hours about 400 of us paraded around town, led by a group of male pluma dancers and young women twirling about with various confections balanced on their headsflowers, crosses, crowns. A brass band played. We sang. A statue of the resurrected Jesus, sitting on a heavenly throne, was hoisted high on the shoulders of young men. An altar boy rang bells. Priests chanted prayers. At the end of the procession, we filled the church to standingroom-only for more prayers, songs, and blessings. Outside in the plaza, the young twirling women, lit their metallic headwear creating human pyrotechnics. Cherry bombs EXPLODED and a gigantic bonfire was lit turning night into day until the fire finally died out. Parents, grandparents, children, families, friends, this Anglican, and at least one tired puppyretired to the street to eat stacks of pancakes. Last Sunday, I heard, tasted, smelled and touched the living power of religion in this country. This time in Mexico is saturating me with the

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(who can read). At the end of the month, we will participate in the prisons Day of the Child festivities Cathy bought out Affordable Treasures, a supply house in Los Gatos, so all 500 kids with parents in prison (some have both mom and dad incarcerated) will receive some goody.

linking the corners of my ceiling. And, most recently, baby geckos race each other around the concrete floor doing their best to avoid me as I accord them the same respect. The geckos and spiders capture and munch on mosquitoes, flies, and gnatsso I [warily] welcome them as silent roommates--as long as they stay off my bed!!

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Date: Subject: Scrambled Eggs

Fri, 31 Mar 2006 10:06:45 -0800 (PST) Date:

Wed, 19 Apr 2006 15:17:08 -0700 (PDT)

Subject:

Graduation!!

Good news! This week I graduated from the beginning Spanish book to intermediate! The assumption is that Ive mastered the grammar and language construction in Book One (I havent) but lets follow-the-yellow-brickroad from present, future, and past verb tenses to reflective, reciprocal, subjective....Im melting, Im

melting, Im melting

Here is a picture of Ale editing one of my English-toSpanish stories. For once she is the victim!

We staged the prison egg hunt last Wednesday. I instructed the men to cover their eyes and WAIT for my signal once Cathy and I hid the candy-stuffed eggs. Well, they were no more patient than kids and before I could count uno, dos, tresa stampede ensued and 100 eggs were scooped up amidst good-natured jockeying for position, giggling and complete chaos. I wonder when those prison walls ever heard so much laughter. I did have to issue a principal-intonation reprimand when I saw they were littering their grounds with tiny bits of colored foil, debris from the candy. They hung their heads and kicked the dirt while I delivered my lecture but quickly recovered, scrambled around cleaning everything up, and then resumed trading peanut butter eggs for jelly beans or vice versa. Thanks for all your donationsnot one single item, from shampoo to hair clips to packs of gumgoes unappreciated. Luis even strutted around with a Ramada Inn shower cap on his head while gobbling up candy peeps. The latest in Easter bonnet fashion! Your generous cash donation will pay for their fresh fruit and vegetables for nearly a year. A donation of Spanish language Bibles from a supporter in Texas is allowing us to distribute Bibles to those men and women in our weekly fellowship group

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Date: Subject: Seeing is Believing

I noticed this week that Adela (see photo) didnt show up to her usual street location where she sells her shawls to the parade of tourists. Finally, yesterday she reappeared. She patted the sidewalk inviting me to sit down beside her. When I asked about her absence, tears spilled over her face--a leathery face hardened from years of poverty, but not hardened to love of family. Over the weekend, her mother-in-law died. Adela took the hour bus trip into town to try and sell enough shawls to buy flowers for the funeral. Arbitrary categories of race, ethnicity, language, and socioeconomics fell away into a city street in Mexico; leaving behind two women, two human beings.grieving together the loss of a mother.
Sun, 2 Apr 2006 18:16:40 -0700 (PDT)

How humbling to be blessed by the embrace of the other the sick, the poor, the imprisonedsocietys forgotten and forsaken. They have nothing to give, yet, from them, I receive everything I need. I wish for each of you an equal blessing.

Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are those that mourn, for they shall be comforted. Blessed are the meek, for they shall inherit the earth. Matthew 5:3-5

Saturday early afternoon, I was walking back to my room and, as usual, when I walkI keep my head down. This posture works best to avoid falling, possibly disappearing forever into any number of sidewalk potholes which I would politely characterize as chasms. When I hit the intersection I stoppedstill looking at my feetwaiting for traffic to stop. When the light changed, checking for safe clearance, I looked up up UP...staring down at me was.an elephant. Yes, yes, yesan elephant. The circus was coming to town. Keeping step with Seior Dumbo was a string of Shetland ponies, llamas, camels, and Bengal tigers. Closing out the procession were pinto ponies with riders dressed up as American Indiansfeather head-dresses, war paint, bows and arrows, spears.reminiscent of Wild Bill Hitchcock and Annie Oakleys Wild, Wild West Show ages ago. As proof this tale is NOT an April Fools joke, I kept a two-for-one ticket tossed to me by a clown on a camel. Going nose-to-knee with an elephant in the streets of Mexico might just be the ultimate animal story I can offerbut then again, I still have two and a half months left!

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Ver es creer

En la maana del sbado, caminaba a mi cuarto despus de pasar una hora en la biblioteca. , como usualmente cuando caminoespecialmente cuando tengo mi mochila pesadavoy con la cabeza hacia abajo. Esta postura me funciona mejor para distribuir la carga de mi mochila y evitar que me caiga, posiblemente desapareciendo para siempre en los baches de las aceras. Cuando me detuve a esperar el trfico, mir hacia arriba, arriba, ARRIBA...un elefante me miraba. S, s, s...un elefante en la calle de la ciudad de Oaxaca. Despus desfilaron antes m: los ponies, camellos, tigres de Bengalas, y las llamas. El circo haba llegado! Por ltimo, pasaban los caballos y los jinetes vestidos como los indios americanos. Justo cuando pensaba que haba visto todo, me topo con un elefante en Oaxaca.

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Date: Subject: Climbing a Sand Dune

Fri, 7 Apr 2006 08:47:46 -0700 (PDT) Date:

Tue, 4 Apr 2006 13:42:13 -0700 (PDT)

Subject:

Living the Beatitudes

Earlier this week I made reference to buying a CD recording in Spanish of songs from a Catholic folk mass. While the point of that e-mail was to celebrate my ability to complete a transaction in Spanish, my motivation was hope. Hope that an offering of music would challenge the dismal oppression that systematically suffocates these prisoners whom I now call parishioners. This Wednesday at our weekly visit I fired up my iPod, cranked up auxiliary speakers to maximum volume and unleashed a number of Cantos para Celebar Misa [Songs for Celebrating Mass] that beat back the noise of raw human heartache and WON! There were shy smiles, knowing nods, toe-tapping, swaying and SINGING. Voices lifted in song infiltrated the guard towers and escaped through the barbed wire. In the Womens Section, our initial group of four tripled to twelvewomen gathered around singing song after song, and when they forgot the words, they hummed. In the Mens Sectioneven those young men who never bother to raise their head from stitching their soccer balls joined in the singing. I was the one having to keep my eyes down to avoid totally dissolving.

"When we long for life without difficulties, remind us that oaks grow strong in contrary winds and diamonds are made under pressure." Peter Marshall This quote is perfect....specifically in regards to learning a second language; the learning process is similar to (I read this metaphor in an article) climbing a sand dune. On Saturday (post-Senior Dumbo), I revisited the store where I bought my black priest collar the very first week here in January (remember that story?), but this time I went in and emerged with exactly what I wanted: a CD of Spanish songs for Mass which I can play at the prison and 15 plastic wallet-sized cards of The Lord's Prayer (Padre Nuestro). I was very proud of myself! It was shortlived.... I asked a man for directions to an organ concert at one of the local churches and wound up sitting in the pew as a wedding party entered...I said "rgano"....he heard "novio"...accent is everything! Oh, well, the wedding was lovely. Then I finished the day unable to dredge up the word for "change" (cambio) so stomped home disgusted with myself for knowing the word for elephant but not something as practical as

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Date: Subject: Giganta en Oaxaca

change! My two Spanish teachers, Karina and Ale, cheer me up every time I get down. No, I didnt carve their names into the giant tree towering over the city, but Im sure it was some former student appreciative of their infinite patience and good humor. We all need somebody to provide us support; therefore we all need to provide support for others! And, for the record, I really feel your support these many miles away! Gracias!!
Tue, 4 Apr 2006 14:26:52 -0700 (PDT)

Here is my latest achievement [with a twist]. Armed with a recommendation I went to a local beauty Salon wishing to have my hair cut and colored--the combination of equatorial sun and four hours of Spanish a day is turning my hair white. I made an appointment and returned yesterday morning for the works. I was ushered into a salon chair and was waiting patiently when I noticed all the stylists huddled together talking gravely about something. The "something" turned out to be me. You see, Oaxaqueos, in general, are short and my 5'8" Americaa stature posed a problem to the staff...even when sitting, none of them could reach the top of my head! After an hysterical exchange in truncated Spanish and English involving many, many gestures, it was determined that if I were willing to slide far down in the chair, they could proceed. I complied; several of them teamed up to wash, cut, color, style, and dry my hair...a tag-team effort of minions amongst me, the giant. The did a great job and we all had a good laugh. I highly recommend "Linda's" on Calle Quintana Roos, Oaxaca, Oaxaca!

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