Definition & Meaning of Anthropometry Anthropometry is the measure of wo/man (anthro=man, pometry=measure).

The study of anthropometry is the study of human body measurements to assist in understanding human physical variations and aid in anthropological classification. Measurement of the height and other dimensions of human beings, especially at different ages, or in different races, occupations, etc Anthropometry is the study of human height, weight and the size of different body parts, and how those measurements vary under certain circumstances. Terminology
1) Pattern Drafting:- A system of pattern making that depends on a series of form or figure

measurements to complete the paper pattern.

2) Pattern draping:- A two dimensional piece of fabric (muslin) draped around a form or

figure conforming to its shape creating a three dimensional fabric pattern. Te muslin pattern is transferred to paper to be used for corrections and creating a final pattern. 3) Basic Pattern Set:- A 5 piece pattern set, consisting of a front/back bodice and skirt, and a long sleeve, which represents the dimensions of a specific form or figure. 4) Working Pattern:- Any pattern used as a base for manipulation when generating design patterns. 5) Landmarks:- Designated points around the body, that correspond with those of the sections when drafting and draping. 6) Trueing- The blending and straightening of pencil lines, crossmarks, and dot marks for the purpose of establishing correct seam lengths. 7) Blend:- A process of smoothing, shaping, and rounding angular lines along a seam for a smooth transition from one point to the next, and for equalizing the discrepancies of joining lines and marks made on the pattern or muslin. ( Blending includes trueing) 8) Bust Point:- A designated place on the bust and pattern. 9) Apex:- The highest location of a mound. 10) Dart:- A wedge - shape cutout in a pattern, used as a means of controlling the fit of a garment.
11)Dart Legs:- The two lines that form an open space at the patterns edge and converge at a

predetermined point on the pattern.

1

12) Dart Intake:- Amount of excess confined between dart legs on control the fit of the garment. Its purpose is to take up excess where it is not needed, and gradually release fabric where it is needed. 13) Double Ended Dart:- A long vertical dart passing through garments having no waistline seam. The dart intake is controlled by two punches and circles placed at the centre fold at waist level and 1/8 inch from one side of the dart leg, and to inch in from the dart at each end. 14) Uprighting Dart:- Moving the dart point so that it places the center fold parallel with the center back or the center front of a garment. 15) Cupping of Pattern:- To cup a pattern, crease fold one dart leg to dart point, then fold it over to meet the other leg. This will cause a bulge to form in the pattern. The purpose for cupping the pattern is to true dart legs and to establish the seamline shape of the dart at the patterns edge. 16) Ease:- The even distribution of fullness without forming gathers. 17) Template:- Patterns one fourth or half the size of a regular pattern. 18) Trace:- To make pencil outline of a pattern as a duplicate for pattern development or for completing a pattern. 19) Test Fit:- A garment cut from a first pattern that includes the horizontal balance lines and granlines drawn as a guide for perfecting the fit.
20)Balance:- the perfect relation ship between parts when combined form a unit in which each

part is in exact proportion and harmony with all others. 21) Balancing a pattern:- Finding and adjusting the difference between joining pattern parts to improve the hang an d fit of the garment. 22) Horizontal Balance Lines (HBL):- A reference to marked lines around the form that are parallel with the floor and to the squared lines placed across pattern that correspond with those of the form. 23) Grain:- The direction in which the yarn is woven or knit. 24) Length wise Grain (Warp): Yarns parallel with selvage and at right angles to the crosswise grain. It is the strongest grain and drapes best when perpendicular to the floor. 25) Crosswise Grain (Weft):- Yarns woven across the fabric from selvage to selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven fabrics. Crosswise gain yields to tension.
2

26) Selvage:- The narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip on both lengthwise grain edges of the woven fabric. 27) Bias:- A slanting or diagonal line cut or sewn across the weave of the cloth. 28) True Bias:- The angle line that intersects with the lengthwise and crosswise grains at a 45 degree angle. True bias has maximum stretch, easily conforming to the figures contours. 29) First Pattern:- The original pattern developed for each design. This pattern generally is made from marking paper and usually requires fitting adjustments. Half a Pattern is developed unless the design is asymmetrical.
30)Production Pattern: The production pattern is s pattern set that has been corrected and

perfected and contains every pattern pieces required to complete the garment.
31)Pattern Grading:- Proportionately increased or decreasing the size and shape of an original

pattern within a given size range.