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Clusters

BURDWAN HANDLOOM CLUSTER Burdwan cluster is famous and very significant place in Bengal handloom industry. Two with this

Burdwan district. About 37500 active looms are still working in this cluster. At least 940

The cluster is very much popular for its "Tangail nakshapar saree", "Jamdani saree" with goods worth Rs.6.3 crore

gamcha etc. Recently weavers of some pwcs are producing exportable products like sc

History of Burdwan cluster has never faced a setback rather it is a growing industry sin

"Nowakhali" and "Tangail" district (at present under Bangladesh) before partition of Ind

now also leading for growth and improvement of this cluster. Some areas like Ketugram are still producing traditional items like lungi, gamcha etc. They

broaden their field of activities in producing various diversified products for the initiative

Basic problem of regular availability of raw material is not major one but some areas lik charges since dyeing work is done

day requirement of small quantity of yarn. There is no good dye house or QDU in this

Core cluster actors are small (tiny) weavers, PWCS weavers, master weavers and computerized design and card making is highly

designers, traders are also available here. In case of local designers adequate train

essential

It has been observed through value chain analysis of Tangail saree that local trader is en share is negligible. After proper intervention for reduction of input procurement cost entrepreneur's

addition to the product and ultimately direct selling mechanism instead indirectly through

After closure of state handloom development corporation (Tantushree) and squeezing th

this cluster is in stake. The outlets and showrooms for cluster products in major cities is

participation in special fairs / exhibitions through out the year on the eve of different fes

Though the district central co-operative bank plays an important role for supporting to th

not getting any support from them. With the result, these class of weavers are not get

regard to procurement of raw material and other activities. In this regard MCGF forma

The cluster is enriched with eight number of "National Awardees weavers", large number

as support Institutions like WSC, NIFT, Textile Committee, NHDC and Handloom Develop

areas like design development for value addition, market research, up gradation of

marketing facility and brand equity. By proper intervention in all the mentioned area

domestic and exportable product with the increase of weavers' earning as well as their liv HANDLOOMS IN BENGAL

Silks of Bengal were much acclaimed the world over since ancient times. The most we

saree - a production of exclusive design and fabulous weaving technique. A revival in re and exquisite

Bengal saree - "Daccai" has lead to nation wide and world wide popularity and interest in

The Daccai Jamdani is a fabric on which designs are raised in inimitable style. Handloom

handlooms exists in West Bengal till date. Santipur, Fulia in Nadia district, Dhaniakha

Ketugram in Burdwan district, Bishnupur in Bankura district are the mainly handloom con SCENARIO OF THE CLUSTER

Burdwan district occupies an important and very significant place in the handloom indus

substantial number of people under rural sector maintain their livelihood from this

'Katwa' & 'Kalna' are two subdivisions mainly depend on handloom industry in Burdwa divisions. The handloom finished products of Katwa I&II block are of coarser varieties of cloths. handlooms as well as

Katwa I & II, Kalna -I & II, Kethugram-I&II, Purbasthali - I&II. At least 94,000,(app

block are producing finer counts of cloth mainly sarees of famous Jamdani, Tangail va

The main products of the Burdwan Cluster are 'Cotton Baluchari' 'Tangail Saree' with alongwith coarser varieties of product for domestic

Recently the weavers of Shyambati, Tamaghata, Vidyanagar, Ghoshat, under Burdwan for export

The PWCS has produced worth Rs. 6.30 crore of exportable goods so far from this cluste GEOGRAPHICAL BOUNDARY OF THE BURDWAN CLUSTER either part or full time profession basis. HISTORICAL EVOLUTION 'Jamdani' and 'Tangail' are two pioneer sarees in the filed

Mainly two sub-divisions Katwa & Kalna have concentration of handloom weavers. The

'Jamdani' - the great characteristic of fine art in hand weaving derived from a "PERSIO

Jamdani style of weaving flourished under the benign, rich and enlightened patronage o natural environment and translated through a particular technique

for its super fine qualities in the fifteenth & sixteenth centuries. Excellence in weaving

and

The figured muslin with delicate motifs worked on by deft fingers, needed besides skil weave. The "Mughals" recognized this excellence, acknowledged its rarity. During the region of was a rare product

an

After the "Mughals" Jamdanis were continued to develop under the patronage of 'Nawa

Bangladesh) The weavers of Dacca were expert in Jamdani known as 'Daccai Jamdani' fo cover Both "Dacca" & "Tanda" Jamdanis, the ground warp and weft threads are commonly both the

"Tanda" and "Varanasi" in Awadh were experts in weaving of 'Awadh Jamdani' for produc

However, mulberry silk (13/15 Den filature)yarn were also used. The warp yarn for sel

In case of indigo dyed Nilambari Jamdani sarees of Bengal, the selvedge yarn dyed wit

black dyed cotton, silver and gold zari, munga threads are used as extra weft for figured warp

in "Tanda" as extra weft. The small cut piece of 3-5 plyed of these extra yarns are used

8' x 8' pit looms were generally used for producing figured Jamdani. Like other saree available in

The motion of layout of Jamdani fabrics are directly woven on loom by traditional

Traditional Jamdani motive are of geometric in concept, adopted from local flowers, bird etc.

evolved a directory of design of "Dacca Gharana" These designs have its nomenclature

In those days (Mughals, Nawabs), the bleaching & dyeing techniques were carried out

ingredients the technique of weaving Jamdani figured designs may be call "PICK & PICK" TANGAIL SARRES

It was originated from Tangail, a district of present Bengladesh. Previously it was named settled in 'Katwa' Dhatrigram, Tamaghata,

on, both cotton warp and weft were in vogue. The weaver mainly of 'BASAK' community

Sam

At present, silk Tangail sarees have been revived. The technique of drawing and weavin

Jamdani sarees. Unlike Jamdani, two plain picks instead of a single pick a Now in Samudragarh, Dhatrigram area design on Tangail sarees are woven in boarder

The main characteristics of these sarees in the loom finishing. While weaving Tangail sa

on cotton yarn. Other feature of this saree i.e. paper finish appearance depends on its su DESCRIPTION OF THE CLUSTER

There are about 94000 people at Burdwan cluster engaged as part or full time basis in 40% weavers are from outside the West

designers, dyers, card makers, traders and auxiliary support providers. Approximate 60

Ben

Weaving community is largely concentrated at Ketugram, Ghoshhat, Panuhat, Musthal and Tangail (presently Bangladesh) district came along-with their looms

Hatsimla, Nasratpur, Goalpara and Dhatrigram areas. Before partition of Bengal i.e. in th

and

They were specialized in weaving of Tangail designed sarees with finer counts of yarn yarn from Dhakkai Patti at Kolkata and also sale their finished products to that 'patti' division has its own history. as to how weaving activities/industry developed there.

PRODUCT MIX

The main product in the two different subdivision vary in their quality, variety and indiv

the raw material by which the Katwa belt weavers turn out their products are coarse

variety of handloom products such as 'Gamcha' (napkin), Lungi, Saree (40' x 40' ) for ro

have mainly migrated from Nwakhali dist of East Pakistan (presently Bangladesh) wh

On the other hand, weavers of Kalna sub-division are mainly successors of Tangail Dist o in weaving of finer and up grated quality of handloom saree e.g., Tangail 'Naksapar'

mention that at present in both the sub division under this cluster, weavers are engage

Jamdani saree, Tangail Saree, Cotton Baluchari etc. but they have broaden their field o

Dress material, Home furnishing fabrics Stole, Scarves, Shirting material and Nylon Than

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West Bengal rich tradition of Handloom Weaving. It is a part of its cultural he

national but also worldwide attention and bears the timeless legacy of our cultural

Jamdani and Tangail are two pioneer sarees in the filed of heritage handloom pr

'Jamdani' - the great characteristic of fine art in hand weaving derived from a " as a textile of excellence for its super fine qualities in the fifteenth & sixteenth new art form.

'container' . Jamdani style of weaving flourished under the benign, rich and enlig

drawn from the social, religious and natural environment and translated through

'Tangail' was originated from Tangail, a district of present Bengladesh. Previousl

weft were used. Later on, both cotton warp and weft were in vogue. The weaver m

before partition of our country & settled in 'Katwa' Dhatrigram, Tamaghata, Samu At present, silk Tangail sarees have been revived. The technique of drawing and

identical to Jamdani sarees. Unlike Jamdani, two plain picks instead of a single pic

Silks of Bengal were much acclaimed the world over since ancient times. The mo

Baluchari saree - a production of exclusive design and fabulous weaving technique are also woven in a fascinating and exquisite range.

standing traditional Bengal saree - "Daccai" has lead to nation wide and world wid

The Daccai Jamdani is a fabric on which designs are raised in inimitable style. Han

3.5 lakhs handlooms exists in West Bengal till date. Santipur, Fulia in Nadia dis Bengal. Emphasis Areas Sustainable employment to weavers and workers Modernisation of looms Encourage new designs Enhancement of export Skill up- gradation of weavers any workers

Dhatrigram, Katwa, Ketugram in Burdwan district, Bishnupur in Bankura district a

Enabling weavers- workers - entrepreneurs to develop a global vision an Strengthening value chain from fiber to retailing

Facilitating development of diversified apparel segment for both export a Encouraging production of niche production in handlooms

Establishment of common facility center for fabric dyeing processing and Removal of credit related bottle necks

Development industrial infrastructure through private - public partnershi

Management and monitoring of development programmes through speci

Restructuring of state owned spinning mills for serving the textile industr

Introduction of West Bengal incentive scheme 2007 for micro and sm textile units