WET PROCESSING

The basic and the sub-processes being carried out in this mill in WET PROCESSING includes; SINGENING DESIZING SCOURING BLEACHING EQUALIZING MERCERIZATION WASHING HEAT SETTING THERMOFIXATION REDUCTION CLEAR CALENDER RAISING SANFORIZING FINISH FOLDING The basic processes and their detail are as follows; GREY STITCHING First of all when the fabric is taken from weaving section to the processing section then the first process is grey stitching and in this process short length of the fabric is converted into long lengths by stitching the fabric from one roll with the other in continuous length. Normally fabric is in short length form like 150m, 200m, 400m etc. these rolls are stitched together to make fabric in continuous length of 8000m, 9000m etc. basically the main purpose of stitching is to avoid the stoppage of machine because of short length of fabric as it is finished soon in the fast moving machine.

SINGEING

In this department SINGEING CUM DESIZING machine is being used. Basically there are two units, one is old and the other one is established later. SPECIFICATIONS OF MACHINE NAME: OSTHOFF SENGE WUPPERTAL GERMANY VP 99-8 2006

MODEL: YEAR: Note: There is another machine made by POONG KWANG.

LINE DIAGRAM a: b: c: d: Grey fabric in trolley Guide roller Brushing rollers To the singeing zone

DIAGRAM OF SINGEING ZONE

a: b: c: d: e:

Fabric guide roller Bow roller Belt roller Burners Water cooled rollers

PROCESS First of all the grey stitched fabric is passed through the guide rollers on to the cloth guards which are used to produce tension in fabric which is the requirement and then the fabric is passed through the brushing rollers which are used to remove the dust, impurities from the fabric. Then the fabric is passed from the bow roller which is mainly required to produce the tension in the centre of the fabric and then the fabric is passed to the main singeing zone. Here the fabric is passed through the water cooled rollers and then into the two burners. The burners burns the protruding fibers and then water cooled rollers are used to low down the temperature of the fabric as it was increased while passing through the burners. At the same time air is blown into the chamber to produce pressure. One burner singes one side of fabric and the other burner singes the other side of the fabric.

There is also a temperature sensor mounted at the outside of the singeing chamber which senses the temperature. And then the fabric is passed through the belt roller. This belt roller is used to extinguish the fire from the leno selvedge. Then the fabric is passed on to the Quenching zone. LENO SELVEDGE Leno selvedge is the selvedge which is neither sewed nor stitched rather it contains the protruding fibers along its breadth. PARAMETERS Maximum speed of singeing machine is 125m/min. Flame pressure is 0-20 mbar. Flame length is 2.5 inches-3 inches. Pressure of the flame is adjusted according to the quality of the cloth required. For high count high pressure is required. For low count low pressure is required. CHARACTERISTICS OF OSTHOFF SENGE It has a temperature sensor that senses the temperature up to the maximum that is 135oC. It has a characteristic of changing angle of flame with fabric. For very light or low quality fabric the angle of flame is adjusted at some angle. Maximum singeing is done when the angle between the fabric and flame is 90o but according to the requirement the flame angle can be adjusted this is the characteristic of this machine only. Only the blue portion of flame is used to singe the fabric and is almost touching the fabric. Uniform air and gas mixing can only be done in this machine. Burner width can be adjusted according to the width of fabric to be singed. SINGEING DEFECTS Uneven singeing throughout the fabric width or length and this defect can only be removed by re-singeing process. Over heating may occur. Because of some manual faults or non-uniform adjustments in PC blends beads may be formed. QUENCHING ZONE After passing through the belt roller of the singeing machine the fabric is passed on for next operation which is the quenching zone. Here the fabric is passed through the set of rollers in a chamber in which the steam is introduced just to quench or wash the singed fabric. The leno selvedge that catches fire is washed here in this department and further the fire of leno selvedge is not extinguished at belt roller then it is removed here. Then through the guide rollers the fabric is moved towards the squeezing rollers. LINE DIAGRAM

a: Fabric from singe b: Quenching rollers c: Guide roller The fabric then passing through the guide rollers reaches the bow roller which produces the tension in the centre of fabric. The fabric then reaches the squeezing rollers. These rollers just press the fabric to remove the extra water in fabric penetrated during quenching. So here the required amount of water is only left in the fabric.

a: b: c: d:

Guide roller Bow roller Squeezing rollers To desizing zone

In the pair of squeezing rollers the upper roller is made of rubber and the bottom roller is made of steel. And the pressure of squeezing rollers is adjusted according to the requirement of water to be in the fabric. Then through the squeezing zone the fabric is transferred to the desizing zone.

DESIZING

Removal of the size material from the fabric is known as desizing. In CRESTEX ENZYME DESIZING is being carried out.

LINE DIAGRAM

a: b: c: d:

Guide roller Bow roller Squeezing rollers Wound on batcher

CHEMICALS The company made names of the chemicals being used in desizing process are as follows; STAIN REMOVERS INNOROL AI ALKAPOL NFD The stains that are produced in the previous processes such as during sizing of a beam or during treatment with chemicals, these stains are removed by the above mentioned stain removers. DESIZER ALKALASE LZV BEISOLE ME Above desizers is basically used to remove the size material. LETHER REMOVER ANTIFOAM During desizing by the reaction of various chemicals if lather is produced on the surface then antifoam is used for lather removal. RECIPE FOR DESIZING DESIZER 5kg INNOROL AI 4kg ALKAPOL NFD 2kg o OPTIMUM TEMP 60 C

PREPARATION

Before applying on the fabric all of these chemicals are mixed in a tank in the above mentioned proportions and at the same time steam is introduced inside the tank and then allowed to mix for about 10-15minutes. Then the solution is ready for its application and now through suction pumps this solution is taken to the desizing chamber. PARAMETERS There are mainly three roller pressures in this department; Roller pressure 0.2mPa Compensator pressure 0.35mPa Water valve pressure o.36mPa Delivery roller pressure 0.6MPa OPERATION When I visited this mill then the pressure was specified as mentioned above. The pressure and temperature is maintained in the desizing chamber according to the requirement. After the desizing chamber the fabric is again passed on to the squeezing rollers through the bow roller which produces the tension in the center of fabric. The down roller is fixed and upper roller is capable of rotating and can be moved up and down by applying pressure. When fabric is passed through these almost touching rollers, the fabric is squeezed and the extra amount of solution and the required amount are left in fabric. Then the fabric through delivery roller is rolled on a roller forming a batcher. These batchers are then separately allowed to rotate by means of motors for little long time even distribution of chemical through out the fabric in rolled form. Now the fabric is ready for bleaching. DESIZING DEFECTS If chemicals are not according to the specified recipe then the desizing is not according to requirement. If the required tension is not produced in the fabric then chemical will not penetrate properly so desizing will not be up to standard so for this reason cloth guards must work properly producing required tension. Now the fabric is ready for bleaching.

BLEACHING

The process of removing the natural colour and other impurities from the fabric is known as bleaching. MACHINES Basically two bleaching machines are working here in the crescent mill. 1. CONTINUOUS BLEACHING RANGE Made by KUSTERS Model: 2002 2. CONTINUOUS BLEACHING RANGE Made by ARTOS BABCOCK

Model: 1989 The process in both machines is same but difference is there only in the washing mechanism and dosing systems. KUSTERS MACHINE FROM TROLLEY TO SCRAY

a: Pressure motor b: Fabric c: Winder d: Motor e: Delivery roller f: Batcher g: Scray OPERATION Maximum speed of this machine is 125m/ min. First of all fabric from the batcher is taken to the guide roller and then to the rubber roller operated by a separate motor and then on to the winder and then in scray. When one batcher is about to end then the roller operated by separate motor is driven and the fabric is collected in the scray in order to stitch the fabric from the next batcher with the previous one in order to prevent the stoppage of machine. So the scray is basically the collection box. Pressure motor is basically present to produce tension in fabric and to avoid wrinkle free and folding free fabric. FROM WASHING TANKS Then the fabric after passing through the coil roller through the scray is passed on to the washing zone one. Rollers in the coil form remove the crease and wrinkle formation in fabric. Here in the washing chamber one hot washing with the steam

is done. The temperature in the washing is 95oC. The soaping is done and then again washing is done in washing two, same as washing no. one. Then the fabric is passed through the padder roller and here water is removed from the fabric then the fabric is passed on to the FLEX NIP. THE FLEX NIP Then the fabric is passed on to the FLEX NIP. Here the main bleaching with the chemicals is done. Here the fabric is treated with various chemicals. The chemicals are introduced in Flex Nip by an auto dozing system. If the fabric is to be scoured the in the same chamber the scouring chemicals are introduced instead of the bleaching chemicals. THE STEAMER After the flex nip the fabric is passed through the steamer in zigzag form as the rollers are in zigzag form. Here steam is applied on the fabric. The temperature of the steam is about 100oC. The time of passing of specific length of fabric through steam box is adjusted according to the requirement and type of fabric. This time was approximately 27 minutes when I visited this mill. Entrance and exit from steam box is the same way. THE WASHINGS After the steamer the fabric is passed through the series of hot washings. After every two washing chambers squeezing is done by means of squeezing rollers. In the hot washings hot water is showered on the inclined fabric so, that more water is penetrated in the fabric. In the squeezing rollers the fabric is squeezed and pressed to remove the extra amount of water from the fabric. The pressure of squeezing roller is adjusted according to the degree of percentage of process uptake. There are mainly five washings and two squeezing zones. One squeezing zone after every two washings and again a squeezing after the next two washings. Again the pressure inside the washing is controlled and adjusted according to the requirement. With every squeezing roller pair there is a dancing roller to control the tension in the fabric. DRYING CYLINDERS After washing the fabric is passed through the drying cylinders. Inside these cylinders is hot water for drying purpose and in between these cylinders fabric is circulated in zigzag form. At the end of drying cylinders there are two cylinders known as water cooled cylinders. Inside these two cylinders cold water circulates in order to low down the temperature of fabric which was increased during hot cylinder drying. Then again there is a scray for collection of fabric and then the bleached fabric is wound on a batcher through the delivery roller for further processes.

RECIPE FOR BLEACHING

(Per kilogram of fabric) H2O2 (50%) NaOH Stabilizer Wetting Agent Sequestering Agent RECIPE FOR SCOURING NaOH 40 ml/ kg Wetting Agent 02 ml/ kg NOTE: Both of these processes the bleaching and scouring are carried out in the same THE FLEX NIP by changing the concerning chemicals in this chamber. DOZING SYSTEM The chemicals that are to be used for bleaching or scouring are first mixed in required proportions in tanks present beside the machine. Depending upon the recipe the chemical solution is automatically sucked by the suction pumps in flex nip. When the level of chemicals is lowered then the required level the automatic suction is done to maintain the required chemical level. FORMULA The bleached or scoured fabric is calculated in weight/meter. The formula is calculated as; Suppose a fabric quality is 30 30 / 76 68 and width of fabric is 98 inches, then A = 76 / 30 = 2.5 B = 68 / 30 = 2.2 Then, Now, A+B = 2.5 + 2.2 = 4.7 4.7 x 98 = 467 inches 467 x 0.641 (const) = 299 g/meter. 30 ml/ kg for printing 35 ml/ kg for dyeing 22 ml/ kg for printing 25 ml/ kg for dyeing 8 ml/ kg for printing 2 ml/ kg for printing 1 ml/ kg for printing.

BLEACHING DEFECTS If the pressure in the padder is not up to the requirement the squeezing will not be good and the moisture content will be more than the required because of which bleaching or scouring will not be good. If the temperature of steamer varies then bleaching will not be good. If chemicals level is low then the needed requirement of chemicals will not be fulfilled so bleaching will not be good. If crease is not removed properly then bleaching will not be up to the standard. If the speed of fabric varies the required then bleaching will not be the required one.

ARTOS BABCOCK MACHINE The functioning of this machine and the process of bleaching and scouring in this machine is same as the KUSTER machine but the only difference is that washing system in the first two washing is different. Similarly the chemical solution capacity in the FLEX NIP of KUSTER is 15-20 liters and that of in BABCOCK is 1900 liters.

MERCERIZATION

The process of increasing the luster and dye uptake of the fabric is known as mercerization. The fabric is treated with caustic soda of high strength. PROCESS The fabric from the batcher is first passed through the rubber roller and steel roller and the pressure of these rollers can be adjusted according to requirement. The there is scray for collection of fabric then through guide rollers fabric passes through the cloth guides and then through the padder and then through bow roller and then squeezing is done. One squeezing roller is made of steel and other is made of Teflon. Then the fabric passes through the dipping bath in which caustic soda is present. Normally caustic soda of strength 28 BOMBAY is used. Here an acid is also used to neutralize the alkaline effect of caustic soda. In this bath 82 rollers are there, 40 rollers are present down and the rest 42 revolve upon the 40 rollers. The fabric is passed through them in zigzag form. The bottom rollers are almost dipped in the caustic solution. Every fifth roller is the drive and the rest are the driven. In this portion three squeezing zones are present, one at the start, second at the middle and the third one is at the end. So the fabric passes through the solution and swelling occurs because of which absorbency increases and fabric becomes straight. Then the fabric passes through the hot washing series. There are 9 washing tanks and after every washing there is a pair of squeezing roller. A tank is attached with the first washing in which soap is added to wash the natural organic impurities and then the fabric is washed by showering the hot water on it. The temperature of every successive washing is higher. Then the fabric is mercerized and is passed through a drying series. There are cylinders in which steam is circulating to dry the fabric. At the end of these cylinders the two cylinders are used to cool down the fabric, within these cylinders cool water is circulating. Then the fabric is wound on a batcher or collected in trolley.

DYEING

The process of colouration of textile material by using single solid colour is known as dyeing. MACHINES Mainly there are two machines in use in the Crescent textile mill. Their detail is as follows; 1. PAD THERMOSOL DYEING: MONFORTS GERMANY MODEL: 2004

Padder of this machine is made of KUSTER and model no. 2004. Burner and infra red are made of MAXON GERMANY model no. 2004. This machine is CONTINUOUS dyeing machine. MONFORTS machine is fully computerized and automatic but at some places on the machine manual work is required. FLOW CHART FABRIC INLET SCRAY COOLING DRUMS PADDER OR DYE BATH AIR WAYS INFRARED 1 INFRARED 2 DRYING CHAMBER 1 DRYING CHAMBER 2 DRYING CHAMBER 3 DRYING CHAMBER 4 CURING CHAMBER 1& 2 COOLING DRUMS EXAMINING SCREEN PILING IN TROLLEY

OPERATION First of all the fabric on batch of trolley is passed through the guide rollers towards the scray for collection of fabric. Then the fabric is allowed to pass through the cooling drums via cloth guards. The cold water circulates inside these Teflon made drums so, that the temperature of the fabric is lowered. The main purpose of cooling is that if the temperature is not decreased then the temperature of the dye will increase and so, variation in shade may occur. So, cooling is done for proper and uniform dye uptake. The fabric is then passed through the dye bath and is padded with the bleaching chemical. Here the reaction takes place between the fabric and the dye molecules. Normally bleaching is done at room temperature but mostly temperature of padder is little higher. The fabric passes through the padder rollers which are coated with the rubber and are present in the dye bath. The pressure of these rollers is adjusted according to the requirement of dye uptake. Then the fabric is passed through the squeezing rollers in order to maintain the required value of dye uptake. Then the fabric is allowed to pass through the air ways, where the fabric just passes through various rollers in order to increase the time for dye penetration in fabric. After that the fabric passes through the infrared chamber no.1 where the infrared radiations are applied on the fabric just for drying purpose, here the temperature is approximately 800oC. Again the fabric is passed through the infrared 2 and same process of drying of fabric is done here. After that the fabric is passed through the drying chamber 1 where the fabric is treated with heat produced by the burners and heaters and little amount of moisture is also applied just to main the required amount of moisture in fabric. In this chamber the fabric is passed over a number of Teflon made rollers in zigzag form. The temperature inside the chamber is maintained or adjusted according to the requirement. The burners that produce heat are radiators coated with thin layer of perforated sheet. When the fire is burnt in these radiators by the burning of gas or oil then the perforated sheet prevents the flames from coming out and only heat is applied on fabric. Fans are also there inside the chambers just to produce the pressure by blowing the heat by directing it on the fabric. There are exhaust motors and fans just to through out the exhaust heat outside of the chamber in order to maintain the temperature inside the chamber. Then the fabric is passed through the next three drying chambers and the same function is performed in these chambers. Then the fabric is passed through the curing chamber 1 where full and final drying is done and finally the dye is fixed here. The temperature in this department is 150-200oC and at this high temperature the molecular bonding changes and the structural changes occur in the fabric so the dye molecules are penetrated in the fabric and become a permanent part of the structure of fabric. Same process is taking place in curing chamber 2. After passing through the curing the fabric is passed through the cooling drum in order to low down the temperature of the fabric. Then the fabric is passed through the examining screen where the stains and marks are examined. Some of the faults are those which can be removed on the machine but some faults cannot be removed but only by again pre treatment. After that the fabric is collected in the trolley or wound on the batcher.

2. PAD THERMOSOL DYEING: BABCOCK MODEL: 1992 Padder is made of KUSTER Company. Infrared and burner is made of MAXON GERMANY. This is also a continuous dyeing machine. FLOW CHART TROLLEY GUIDE ROLLERS CLOTH GUARDS PRESSURE ROLLER PADDING IN DYE BATH INFRARED BOW ROLLER CREASE REMOVING ROLLER BOW ROLLER GUIDE ROLLER DRYING CHAMBER 1 DRYING CHAMBER 2 DRYING CHAMBER 3 CURING CHAMBER I CURING CAHMBER 2 HEATER DYED FABRIC IN TROLLEY

The operation of the BABCOCK machine is same as the MONFORTS; all the processes are same as in the MONFORTS. DIFFERENCE IN THE BABCOCK AND MONFORTS MACHINE In MONFORTS machine the gas is burnt in the drying chamber and curing chamber just to produce heat for drying but in BABCOCK machine thermal oil is burnt to produce heat for drying. In MONFORTS machine two infrared chambers are there for drying but in BABCOCK machine there is only one infrared for drying. DOZING SYSTEM Dozing system of both the machines is automatic. Different tanks are fixed at the side of the machine and the dye stuff material like thickeners, dyes, softeners, water, auxiliaries etc. are added in those tanks to prepare the dye solution and then this solution is transferred to the dye bath or trough. There are the level sensors present in the dye bath which senses the level of dye solution and if it becomes less than the required level then the chemical solution from the tanks is transferred in dye trough by the automatic suction pumps. SPECIFICATIONS Pressure and the temperature in the chamber depend upon the dye shade required on the fabric. Speed of the fabric depends upon nature of fabric, if count of fabric is low then low speed and if high count then high speed is required. Moisture meter is also present inside the chambers just to maintain the level of moisture. Temperature sensors are also there inside the drying chambers just to keep the temperature up to the required value. RECIPE FOR DYEING Recipe for the preparation of the dye solution varies from fabric to fabric and from blend to blend. Various chemicals such as thickeners, wetting agents, water, urea is used. Basically urea is used to maintain the required moisture in the fabric because the water in small quantity is needed for dye fixation. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PIGMENT AND OTHER DYES Pigments are the dyes that have no ability to stick with or to penetrate into the fabric structure so they cannot be fixed on the fabric. So, for their fixation binders are used. Binders have the ability of making links with the fabric structure and the pigments and so they are added because of which the pigments can be fixed on the fabric easily. FAULTS When pre treatment process is not performed well then dyeing may not be in required shade. Because of weaving faults dyeing may be non uniform.

 In blends if blending of the fabrics is not proper then dyeing may differ from the required. If the chemicals are not according to the recipe then dye shade may not match the required. Due to improper drying and improper curing or because of improper contact between the fabric and the dye solution, dyeing may not be up to the standard. CURE OF THE FAULTS Most of the faults can only be removed by the again pre treatment of the fabric. In case of the blends one variety is dyed first and then the second one is dyed.

PRINTING
The printing process is further divided into various processes and the departments and their details are as follows; DESIGN STUDIO The designs that are provided by the customers may be in three forms; ART WORK In this case the required form of the sketch is drawn on a paper. FABRIC PIECE Customer may send the design printed on the fabric.

CD RECORDING Sometimes the customer sends the sample in the form a film recorded on a CD. DESIGN SCANNING Then the sample is scanned in a computerized machine. REPEAT CUTTING Then the design is cut according to the repeat and is adjusted as one repeat. Repeat means the diameter of the screen. Different repeats are used such as 640, 820, 914, 1024 etc. JOINT SETTING After the repeat has been cut the joint setting is done, it means the joints of different parts of design of one screen must be meeting together with that of the second screen. COLOUR SEPARATION

Then the colours of the design are separated as the design is the combinations of various colours and their shades. FINAL CHECKING After the colours are separated the final strips of the colours are made and are forward to the engraving department for the printing of the screens. ENGRAVING In this department the screens are prepared and the required design is engraved on the screens separately for printing. MACHINE The complete set of machine used for coating, exposing, developing etc. is made of JOHANNES ZIMMER, KLAGENGURT, AUSTRIA. The ink jet machine is made of CST, GERMANY. MODEL: 1989 PROCESS This process includes following steps; ROUNDING First of all the screen is baked at about 150-160oC in an oven. DEGREASING Then the screen is stirred in the tank containing the chemical for about 1520 minutes and then washed and dried. COATING Photo emulsion is used for coating. Here the chemical is added in the rubber squeeze and is moved up and then coating starts by moving the squeeze from top to bottom of the screen. EXPOSING Then the screen is put on the exposing tube and the screen is rotated slowly and simultaneously the design is printed on the fabric which is specified by the computer. And at the same time light of high intensity is given to the design made by ink so the fixation of the ink and design may occur. DEVELOPING Then the screen is washed by putting in enrolling on a washing tube and cold water is showered with high pressure from out side of screen and inside it. CURING

Then this screen is put in a curing chamber and baked at about 160-180oC for about 90-120 minutes and at the same time blow of air is introduced inside the chamber for pressure heating.

ENDERING GLUEING Then the screen is headed with aluminum by the glue and then dried at 100oC for about20 minutes. RECHECKING/RETOUCHING Screen is mounted bon light stand and its fault is checked and then is covered by applying the specific chemical. DRYING After these entire processes screen is dried at about 20-30oC for about half an hour. SCREEN STRIPPING The screen is then heated at 190-200oC for about 20-30 minutes in an oven and then colour is applied at its ends and then it is stirred in the stripper chemicals for about 15-20 minutes. And then washed with simple water and degreased. RECIPE FOR STRIPPER Phenol 40 kg Formic acid 30 kg Hydrochloric acid 10 kg Approximately 25-30 screens are strip in the 100 kg chemical. PATCHING Araldite is applied on the screen and then is allowed to dry in drier for specific time.

INKJET EXPOSING Design is transferred on the inkjet machine and then screen is mounted on the machine and design is made on the screen depending upon the length of the repeat and light is also given to make the design hard. POSSIBLE FAULTS If the inkjet machine is not pasting the ink properly then the variation in design may occur. If the film over which design is to be exposed is not coated properly then printing will not be aligned. If improper command is given then design may vary. If the subsequent processes are not done properly then design may vary. SAMPLING

This is basically the initial of printing. In sampling department the samples of designs are prepared. Here the sample is prepared by considering various parameters specified by the customer such as shade, tone, dimensions of fabric; combination of colours, standards, recipe etc. the sample is then checked and then colour matching is done. If it is accurate then this sample is send to the customer and when he approves that sample then on his order the production is started. PRINTING VARIABLES The colour is introduced in the screen and then a rod is placed inside the screen that helps in penetration of the colour in the fabric through the mashes of the screen by applying pressure. These rods are available in different diameters like 12mm, 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, and 30mm. A magnet is also placed between the rollers over which the screen is fitted and this rod is attracted by the magnet thus helping in colour transfer in controlled form, the pressure of the magnet is varied depending upon the requirement. Weight of the rod is very important for a design, if the design is heavy then heavy rod is used and if design is light then light rod is used. The adhesive chemical that is applied on the leather blanket is known as NEWDINE T and NEWDINE DT, YOKOHAMA COMPANY, JAPAN. Different colours and shades are made by the combination of the three base colours. Red Blue Yellow POSSIBLE FAULTS If colours are not made properly then shade variation may ocurr. If colour recipe is not made properly then coloue matching is difficult. If screen is faulty then sample will not be properly aligned. COLOUR KITCHEN This is the department where the colours and the printing pastes are made according to the requirement. The base paste commonly known as MANDI is also prepared here and its recipe is; For 1 kg Binder ET Urea LUTEXL HIT Ammonia liquor 0.03 kg 0.01 kg 0.35 kg 0.15 kg 3% 1% 3.5% thickener 1.5%

FOR FLOW PRINT For 1 kg Binder 0.45 kg Flow print 0.22 kg Ammonia liquor 0.22 kg

4.5% 2.2% thickener 2.2%

Urea

0.15 kg

1.5%

THE PRINTING PASTE This gummy material includes thickeners, binders, urea and emulsifiers. DAP is basically used as a thinner and sometimes common salt is also used as a thinner in colouring paste. In the printing of black colour only the emulsifier is used to help the black colour to stick on the surface of the fabric only without moving to the other side of fabric without making the paste thin. Binders are used for the purpose to help the colour for sticking on the fabric. The binders make a layer on the fabric and the pigment molecules make bonds with the molecules of binders and so they stick to the fabric so, binders are applied because pigments do not have the sticking property. Thickeners are the substances which provide a medium for the transfer of colour on the fabric from the pigment. So they have colour transferring property. Ammonia liquor is used to increase the power of hydrogen so that the thickener may dissolve in the water quickly and efficiently. It is basically used to swell the thickener. It reacts with the thickener and swells its molecules so pigment molecules are entrapped easily within its molecules so fixation is good. Urea is used to provide moisture to the colour so that the colour may not dry so that cross linking may not occur. It is basically of strong hygroscopic nature. COLOUR PREPARATION An automatic colouring machine AUTOMATIC COLOUR KITCHEN is used to mix the printing paste and the colour. This machine is manufactured by VANWYK, HOLLAND. MODEL: 2002. PROCESS The paste is first formed by the mixing of chemicals in the above mentioned proportions and is then sucked by the auto colour kitchen through the suction pumps. Then from the auto colour kitchen the basic colours that are stored in the drums is taken is mixed in the required amount with the printing paste to make the esired amount of the required colour. This whole process is computerized. A little quantity of binder is also added in the mixture, for light shades less binder is added and for heavy shades more binder is added. After the preparation of the final colour material it moves on the conveyer belt and is then stirred for about two minutes. And then this paste is taken to the machine for printing. THE PRINTING MACHINES Basically three machines are present for commercial printing in the CTM. Their details are as follows;

ZIMMER MACHINE Basically there are two Zimmer machines one is for the printing of large width fabric and the other one is for small width of fabric but it was not working these days. NAME: JOHANNES ZIMMER MACHINENBAU, KUFSTEIN, AUSTRIA MODEL: 1994 The drier is made of KLAGENFURT, AUSTRIA. OPERATION 16 colour designs can be made on this machine. PROCESS FLOW Batcher rollers Conveyer roller Guide rollers Pressure roller Suction fans Guide Cloth guides Blanket Screen printing Drier Brush roller Guide roller Pressing Platters Trolley

PARAMETERS Maximum temperature of drier is 180oC and temperature is adjusted according to the design. Every drier includes one fan. Speed is also adjusted according to the design. The glue to be sticked on the blanket is manufactured by heating the polyvinyl alcohol with water and given steam in stirring form. Brushing roller is used to remove the rust from the back of printed fabric. Pressing rollers are used to press the fabric, the bottom roller is the drive and of large diameter and the above roller is the driven and is of small diameter. The bottom roller is coated with the pointed material havine the property of producing friction. Platers are used to pile the fabric in the trolley. REGGIANI MACHINE MANUFACTURER: ITALY MODEL: 2006 Normally machine can be divided into five zones; 1. ENTRANCE ZONE 2. SCRAY ZONE 3. PRINTING ZONE 4. DRYING CHAMBER 5. BAKING CHAMBER PROCESS FLOW Batcher Roller driven by separate motor Cloth guides Crease removing rollers Driers. Brush roller Glue sensors Suction slots Blanket

SPECIFICATIONS Suction slots are used to suck the dead cotton and the fluff and throw it out. On the blanket the screens are fixed on the screen support and so the screen can be adjusted according to the width of design. Inside screen support there are jets of air to produce air pressure inside screen so that during printing on fabric it may not be distorted. The screens must be kept wet so that the colour inside the screen may not dry which can cause variation in shade. The glue from the blanket is continuously washes after every cycle and fresh glue is applied. PARAMETERS Maximum speed of this machine is 90 meter/minute. Speed of the machine depends upon the two factors, Quality Design Maximum width of the fabric printed on Reggiani is 3.2 meters. Maximum temperature in the dryers is 180oC and minimum temperature is 140oC. If thick or deep design high temperature is used and for light design low temperature is used. PRINTING PARAMETERS Printing process is based on the following four parameters; VISCOSITY OF PRINTING PASTE Shade of the colour can be varied by the variation in the viscosity of the printing paste. If the viscosity is more than the less amount of paste will penetrate through the meshes and so light shade will be obtained. If viscosity is less than rod will force more colour to penetrate the fabric through the meshes so dark shade will be obtained. SPEED OF MACHINE Speed of machine is also adjusted according to design. If fine print is required then speed of machine will be high. If dark shade then machine speed is high. If light shade then machine speed is low. ROD SIZE Rod size and weight is also very important. If light shade is needed then light weight rod with low diameter is needed and for dark shades heavy rod with large diameter id needed. Light rod with fewer diameters will press the paste less to penetrate through the meshes so light shade will be obtained and vice versa for dark shade. MAGNET PRESSURE

Magnet pressure is also very important. The magnet is fixed under the leather blanket below the screen when the rod is places inside the screen then it is gripped by the magnet and so presses the printing paste. If the pressure of magnet is low then the rod will press less amount of paste through the meshes and so light shade will be obtained. Similarly if magnet pressure is high the rod will force more paste through the meshes and so dark shade is obtained.

FINISHING

Finishing process is basically done to increase the hand feel and to set out fabric according to the required dimensions. Here various chemicals are used such as softeners and resins etc. This process includes machines such as stenters and sanforizing machine. STENTERS In stenters fabric is heat set to obtain additional properties. Mainly there are five stenters working in this mill. Four stenters are made of MONFORTS and one is made of MARSHAL AND WILLIAMS and one is of BABCOCK ARTOS. Working of all the stenters is approximately the same so we discuss here only the MONFORTS 1989 STENTER PARAMETERS Maximum width of the fabric that can be finished is 120 inches. Maximum speed of machine is 60meter/minutes. NOTE If printed or dyed fabric is to be finished and heat set then it is passed through the resins and softeners otherwise for only the bleached white fabric simple water is used because if chemicals are applied upon bleached fabric then this fabric cannot be dyed after heat setting. PROCESS The fabric enters the machine from a batcher or a trolley and is passed on to the solution tank through the guide rollers and the tensioners. Here in the solution tank the solution containing the resins and softeners etc. are present through which the fabric is padded and is then taken out and is passed through the squeezing rollers that squeeze the fabric according to required percentage. Then the fabric is passed through the weft straightener which is made of BIANCO Company and this contains a number of rollers through which the fabric is passed and there are eight sensors that senses the fault in weft and removes the fault. Then the fabric comes on the head of the machine and is passed through a number of guide rollers and its selvedge is gripped by the chains and is done by the camera. Here the fabric is straightened weft wise and warp wise it is straightened by the tension provided by the tensioners and then the fabric is heated in wet form. There are five heating chamber in this machine. Here in these chambers the fabric in wet form is treated with high temperature in order to stabilize it in required dimensions by heat setting. The temperature of every

successive chamber is higher than the previous one. The fabric is then outgripped from selvedge through chains and then again the fabric is passed through weft straightener and its a double machine with 16 sensors. If some faults are left in first straightener then these are removed in the second one. Then the fabric is wound on a batcher. SANFORIZING MACHINE This machine is used to control the shrinkage in the fabric. AMERICAN SANFORIZING, 2003. PARAMETERS Maximum speed of machine is 90 meters/ minute. Best shrinkage results are obtained at 35-50m/min. Shrinkage depends upon speed and temperature. Normally only 15-20% shrinkage is possible in a fabric. PROCESS The fabric is first passed from batcher through the tension rollers to produce tension in lengthwise direction and then through the guide rollers in the showering tank where air and water is showered on the fabric. Then the fabric is passed over a steel drum in which steam is present to dry the fabric after which the fabric is passed through a rubber roller and then a steel roller to the calendaring system. Here the fabric is passed through a rubber roller and the steam drum. The pressure on the rubber roller can be adjusted. The rubber roller shrinks the fabric and the steam drum heats the fabric to stabilize the fabric in required dimensions. Then the fabric passes through the blanket revolving aver a steam cylinder used to completely stabilize the new dimensions. Then the fabric is collected in a trolley. CALENDERING The main purpose of this is to smooth the fabric surface and give shiny, silky or chintz effect MACHINE NAMES: RAMISCH KLUNEWEERS (5bowls) RAMISCH GUARENERI (3 bowls)

PROCESS First of all the fabric from the batcher is passed through the tension rollers and then through cloth guards and then the fabric is passed through a roller having a sensor to measure the speed of cloth. Then the crease removing roller removes the crease of fabric and there is emery roller and then a steel roller onto the Teflon made roller and to the cotton roller and then the fabric is rolled on the batcher after passing through the steel roller.

FOLDING
Objective

The main objective of folding department is to make it sure that the finished fabric, which is about to dispatch is defect or fault free, is at the satisfactory level and meets the requirement of the customer. Process In folding department the fabric is brought into the big hall in the form of opened fabric on trolley. First of all the fabric is checked on the inspection table by quality checkers. If any type of fault is found those personnel point it out. If there are extra threads then checker cuts it off. After passing through the inspection tables the fabric then comes to the packing side, where the quantity of fabric is also measured, and is rolled on the big tube cones. The concerned personnel keep an eye on the fabric marked by the quality checkers and the fabric is torn from that point. Measuring equipment also indicates the length of the fabric. Short pieces even with out any fault are not accepted by the customer. Usually the standard fabric piece lengths, which are required by customer, are as follow: 80% pieces over 75 meters & above. 20% pieces 25-75 meters.

Finished fabric for garments is inspected accordingly and is packed with out any minimum limit of length, because it can easily be utilized in made-ups. After the fabric rolled on, every roll is packed in polythene bags, and each roll is given a serial number beside the production number. After completion of the packing of whole production, those rolls are sent to the EB4 for dispatch. Printed or dyed fabric, besides roll packing is also packed in bales. Total length of piece is folded in 1meter length, and then the selvedge sides are folded. After that it is packed in polythene bags. The grey fabric is also packed in the form of bales. Remarks usually printed on a roll: Party name Order and PO number Quality of fabric Design of fabric (printed / dyed/ bleached) Length of fabric Destination