Chapter 1 General Introduction

INTRODUCTION Due to the use of elastane fiber in single jersey knit fabric various physical properties will be changed. The physical properties which are to be considerd: GSM, Air Permeability, Pilling, Spirality, Loop length, Course Spacing, Wale Spacing, course/cm, wales/Spacing, Stitch density, Bursting Strength & Shrinkage. The weight and thickness of the Elastane containing fabrics are higher, fabrics tend to be tighter, but spirality, air permeability and pilling grade gets lower. The fabrics knitted with elastane yarns that have the largest tension values under a constant draw ratio give the highest weight, wales/cm, courses/cm, stitches/cm, thickness, and lowest air permeability values. The width of the fabric decreases and then the thickness of the fabric increases Because of the greater stretched structure of the spandex yarns that have shorter loop length values. The wear comfort of outer clothing, leisurewear, underwear, and sportswear is generally ensured by the use of knitted fabrics containing elastane fibers. Today, more and more articles including elastane are available in the circular knit fabric collections. An important number of patents describing the design of new plated fabrics was registered during the last decades [i-iv]Elastane fibers are synthetic fibers made up of linear macromolecules of high molecular weight. The first process for the industrial-scale production of elastane fibers by dry spinning was developed in1962 by J.C. Shevers and colleagues in the Pioneering Research Division of E.I. Du Pont de Nemours & Co., Inc. (U.S.A.). This multifilament has since been on the market under the name "Lycra". The outstanding property of elastanes is their very good stretch elasticity that can be as high as 500%, while the elastic recovery reaches 95%. In recent years the use of woven and knitted fabrics with elastane fibers has increased sharply. This is due in particular to the fact that these articles are characterized by excellent wear comfort and fit. The industry anticipates an annual increase of 8-10% for the coming years [v]. The elastanes are predominantly used in tights, underwear, swim wear and beachwear, sports articles, corsets and medical support stockings. Elastanes are always processed with one or more other fibers and never individually. If bare elastane is processed to form a loop it must always be knitted together with a ground yarn. This measure is necessary because there is the risk that the elastane yarn may break if the knitted fabric is stretched too far. Blending elastane with native or man-made fibers is called plating. Plating means the simultaneous formation of one loop from two threads, so that one thread will lie on the face of the fabric while the

other thread is fed to the needles in such a way that it forms the back or reverse of the final fabric. In the case of single-bed circular knitting machines elastane must always be fed in via a plating yarn guide. This guide presents generally a feeding roll permitting Lycra guiding with minimum friction [vi, vii]. Positive feed

Fig 2.Elastane plated single jersey plain knitted fabric pattern

mechanisms where the unwinding elastane bobbin is driven have become the most common feed systems in large-diameter circular knitting when processing elastane yarn. The bobbin is driven positively in these delivery systems. After unwinding, the yarn passes through an electric stopping device and is then fed to the needle through the plating roll. Elastane yarn proportion is one of the most important parameter of single jersey plated fabric. The proportion of elastane inside fabric influences fabric characteristics [vii]. The adjustment of elastane proportion is obtained through the setting elastane delivery system speed. There is no rigorous physical law that enables to determine with precision the necessary elastane consumption for given fabric properties. The relation between elastane proportion and fabric width, weight or elasticity is generally not well known. Most of knitters have to carry out some tests and adjust gradually knitting parameters in order to reach the needed elastane proportion and the right fabric properties. The obtained adjustments serves generally as a base for furthers settings. The aims of this project work is to study the effect of elastane on the basic principle physical properties; they are GSM, Air Permeability, Pilling, Spirality, Loop length, Course Spacing, Wale Spacing, course/cm, wales/Spacing, Stitch density, Bursting Strength & Shrinkage test. This would help commercial knitter to understand the effect of elastane on fabric properties.

Chapter 2 Literature Review

2.1- INTRODUCTION :
Elastane is a synthetic polymer. Chemically, it is made up of a long-chain polyglycol combined with a short di-isocyanate, and contains at least 85%polyurethane. It is an elastomer, which means it can be stretched to a certain degree and it recoils when released. These fibers are superior to rubber because they are stronger, lighter, and more versatile. In fact, elastane fibers can be stretched to almost 500% of their length. This unique elastic property of the elastane fibers is a direct result of the material's chemical composition. The fibers are made up of numerous polymer strands. These strands are composed of two types of segments: long, amorphous segments and short, rigid segments. In their natural state, the amorphous segments have a random molecular structure. They intermingle and make the fibers soft. Some of the rigid portions of the polymers bond with each other and give the fiber structure. When a force is applied to stretch the fibers, the bonds between the rigid sections are broken, and the amorphous segments straighten out. This makes the amorphous segments longer, thereby increasing the length of the fiber. When the fiber is stretched to its maximum length, the rigid segments again bond with each other. The amorphous segments remain in an elongated state. This makes the fiber stiffer and stronger. After the force is removed, the amorphous segments recoil and the fiber returns to its relaxed state. By using the elastic properties of elastane fibers, scientists can create fabrics that have desirable stretching and strength characteristics. The primary use for elastane fibers is in fabric. They are useful for a number of reasons. First, they can be stretched repeatedly, and will return almost exactly back to original size and shape. Second, they are lightweight, soft, and smooth. Additionally, they are easily dyed. They are also resilient since them are resistant to abrasion and the deleterious effects of body oils, perspiration, and detergents. They are compatible with other materials, and can be spun with other types of fibers to produce unique fabrics, which have characteristics of both fibers. Elastane is used in a variety of different clothing types. Since it is lightweight and does not restrict movement, it is most often used in athletic wear. This includes such garments as swimsuits, bicycle pants, and exercise wear. The form-fitting properties of elastane make it a good for use in under-garments. Hence, it is used in waist bands, support hose, bras, and briefs.

2.2 HISTORY OF ELASTANE FIBRE : The development of elastane was started during World War II. At this time, chemists took on the challenge of developing synthetic replacements for rubber. Two primary motivating factors prompted their research. First, the war effort required most of the available rubber for building equipment. Second, the price of rubber was unstable and it fluctuated frequently. Developing an alternative to rubber could solve both of these problems. At first, their goal was to develop a durable elastic strand based on synthetic polymers. In 1940, the first polyurethane elastomers were produced. These polymers produced millable gums, which were an adequate alternative to rubber. Around the same time, scientists at Du Pont produced the first nylon polymers. These early nylon polymers were stiff and rigid, so efforts were begun to make them more elastic. When scientists found that other polyurethanes could be made into fine threads, they decided that these materials might be useful in making more stretchable nylons or in making lightweight garments. The first elastane fibers were produced on an experimental level by one of the early pioneers in polymer chemistry, Farbenfabriken Bayer. He earned a German patent for his synthesis in 1952. The final development of the fibers was worked out independently by scientists at Du Pont and the U.S. Rubber Company. Du Pont used the brand name Lycra and began full scale manufacture in 1962. They are currently the world leader in the production of elastane fibers. Elastane or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is strong, but less durable than its major non-synthetic competitor, natural Latex. It is a polyurethane-polyureacopolymer that was developed in 1959 by chemists C. L. Sandquist and Joseph Shivers at DuPont's Benger Laboratory in Waynesboro, Virginia. When first introduced, it revolutionized many areas of the clothingindustry.

2.3 MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF ELASTANE :

RAW MATERIALS: A variety of raw materials are used to produce stretchable elastane fibers. This includes prepolymers which produce the backbone of the fiber, stabilizers which protect the integrity of the polymer, and colorants. Two types of prepolymers are reacted to produce the elastane fiber polymer backbone. One is a flexible macroglycol while the other is a stiff di-isocyanate. The macro-glycol can be polyester, polyether, polycarbonate, polycaprolactone or some combination of these. These are long chain polymers, which have hydroxyl groups (-OH) on both ends. The important feature of these molecules is that they are long and flexible. This part of the elastane fiber is responsible for its stretching characteristic. The other prepolymer used to produce elastane is a polymeric diisocyanate. This is a shorter chain polymer, which has an isocyanate (-NCO) group on both ends. The principal characteristic of this molecule is its rigidity. In the fiber, this molecule provides strength. Elastane fibers are produced in four different ways including melt extrusion, reaction spinning, solution dry spinning, and solution wet spinning. Each of these methods involve the initial step of reacting monomers to produce a prepolymer. Then the prepolymer is reacted further, in various ways, and drawn out to produce a long fiber. Since solution dry spinning is used to produce over 90% of the world's elastane fibers, it is described. Dry-Spinning Process:

Step 1: The first step is to produce the prepolymer. This is done by mixing a macroglycol with a diisocyanate monomer. The two compounds are mixed in a reaction vessel to produce a prepolymer. A typical ratio of glycol to diisocyanate is 1:2 Step 2: The prepolymer is further reacted with an equal amount of diamine. This reaction is known as chain extension reaction. The resulting solution is diluted with a solvent to produce the spinning solution. The solvent helps make the solution thinner and more easily handled, and then it can be pumped into the fibre production cell.

Step 3: The spinning solution is pumped into a cylindrical spinning cell where it is cured and converted into fibres. In this cell, the polymer solution is forced through a metal plate called a spinneret. This causes the solution to be aligned in strands of liquid polymer. As the strands pass through the cell, they are heated in the presence of a nitrogen and solvent gas. This process causes the liquid polymer to react chemically and form solid strands. Step 4: As the fibres exit the cell, an amount of solid strands are bundled together to produce the desired thickness. Each fibre of elastane is made up of many smaller individual fibres that adhere to one another due to the natural stickiness of their surface. Step 5: The resulting fibres are then treated with a finishing agent which can be magnesium stearate or another polymer. This treatment prevents the fibres' sticking together and aids in textile manufacture. The fibres are then transferred through a series of rollers onto a spool. Step 6: When the spools are filled with fibre, they are put into final packaging and shipped to textile manufacturers.

Literature Survey
Papers describing the effects of the elastane in knitted fabrics are generally related to dimensional properties of the fabrics (1, 2, and 3).Schulze [1] investigated the dimensional properties of single jersey, lacoste, and fleece fabrics knitted with cotton/elastane yarns. He found that the weight and loop densities of cotton/elastane fabrics were higher than they were in cotton fabrics. He also reported the extension, both widthwise and lengthwise, increased as relaxation progressed. Ceken [2] knitted single jersey and 1X1 rib samples with various tightness factors using cotton and various counts of elastic yarn. Apparently the dimensional variations widthwise for fabrics knitted with cotton alone were higher, while the lengthwise variations for the same fabrics wereless after relaxation.

Tasmaci[3] researched the dimensional properties of single jersey fabrics knitted from cotton, viscose, and PES yarns with or without elastane, He found that for elastane-containing fabrics,variations were higher both width-wise and for weight, Furthermore, the appearance of fiber surfaces was smoother. Meri B., Grarda A [4] studied the mechanical properties of fabrics containing elastane and concluded that high elastane content makes the yarn flexible; however, the yarn that will be used with elastane should allow the fabric to move freely and shouldnt cause any deformation in the fabric. A. B. Marmarali [5] investigated the physical and dimensional properties of elastic single jersey fabrics, and A. Marmarali, N. zdil and S. D. Kretzschmar [6] studied the effect of the elastane content in fabrics on their thermal properties and relative water vapor permeability. In the literature, some studies aimed to conceive new plating devices or to design new plated fabrics [7, 8]. Cuden et al. studied experimentally the evolution of the characteristics of elastane plated plain knitted fabric after finishing and relaxation but did not investigated the effect of elastane ratio on these characteristics. [9]. Studies which specifically treat the relation between elastane proportion and plated fabric performances are extremely rare. Some researchs available in literature [10, 11] described the relation between the rate of elastane and some fabric properties such as extensibility and fatigue but they concerned only weaved fabrics made with elastane core-spun weft yarns.

2.5 REFFERENCE :
[1] Schulze, U. (1993), Rechts/Links-Rundstrick-Bindungen n DurKombinationmitDorlastan, Wirkerei und Strickerei Tech., 5, p: 456. [2] Ceken, F., 1995, Some Investigations of the Dimensional Properties of Knitted Fabrics Containing Different Materials, Doctoral thesis, Ege University, Izmir. [3] Tasmaci, M., 1996, Effects of Spandex Yarn on Single Jersey Fabrics Knitted with Naked Lycra Yarn, TekstilveKonfeksiyon, 6, p: 422-426. [4] Meri B., Grarda A., Proceeding of the XIIth Textile and Leather Romanian Conference, October 2002, pp. 17-19. [5] Marmaral, A., 2003, Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton /Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 73(1), p: 11-14. [6] Marmaral, A., zdil, N. and Dnmez Kretzschmar, S., 2006, Thermal Comfort and Elastic Knitted Fabrics, International Conf. CIRAT- 2, MonastirTunisia. [7] Baozhu, K., Weiyuan, Z., "The optimal design of three-layer plated fabrics", Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 15, 2007, 59-61. [8] Bruer, S. M., Powell, M., Smith, G., "Three dimensionally knit spacer fabrics: a review of production techniques", Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4, 2005, 1-31. [9] Cuden, A. P., Srdjak, M., Pelko, H., "Optimization of the cotton/Lycra plain knitted Fabric parameters", International Journal of Polymeric Materials, 47, 2000, 633 648. [10] zdil, N., "Stretch and Bagging Properties of Denim Fabrics Containing Different Rates of Elastane", Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 1, 2008, 63-67. [11] Gorjanc, S., Bukosek V., "The behaviour of fabric with elastane yarn during stretching, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 3, 2008, 63-68.

10

Books Jerde, Judith. Encyclopedia of Textiles. Facts on File, 1992. Lewin, M. and J. Preston, ed. High Technology Fibers. New York: Marcel Dekker, 1985. Other i. Devra, A. U.S. Patent 5,303, 882, 1994. Goodrich, C & W. Evans. U.S. Patent 5,028,642, 1991. [Article by: Perry Romanowski]. Bayazit, A., Introduction to Weft knitting, EgeUniv..TkaumYayin Izmir,2000. No.9,

ii.

iii.

Ceken. F., Some Investigations of the dimensional properties of knitted of fabrics containing different materials. Doctoral thesis, EgeUniv.. Izmir. 1995.

11

Chapter 3 Materials & Methods

12

Two separate single jersey samples were knitted: one with cotton alone and the other one as cotton/elastane fabrics (elastane in every course).Samples were obtained at medium loop length values, representing a medium fabric. Both the samples are produced in Mayer & Cie Single jersey Circular Knitting Machine of 30 dia & 24 gauge. 30/1 ring spun cotton yarn & 40Denier Elastane were used in the experiment. An IRO MER2 system was used to feed the elastane, and yarn tension was 6 cN. The samples were subjected to the dyeing, washing and finishing processes. All the processes are done according to the current practice.

Measurements were taken on samples as follows: Loop length [l(mm)]: The length of five unrowed courses, each of which contained fifty wales, was measured on a Hatra-like tester by putting a 10 g weight on the underside and the average was calculated. This average value was divided by fifty to find the length of one loop. The process done both for the 100% cotton and cotton/elastane sample. Course/cm and wales/cm: The numbers of courses and wales in a 1 length of fabric were determined at ten different places on every sample with a magnifying glass, and the average values were calculated. Then we can calculate wales/cm & courses/cm by the following formula: courses/cm=courses/inch/2.54 & wales/cm=wales/inch/2.54. Stitch Density: We can calculate stitch density by multiplying courses/cm and wales/cm

13

Sample: 100% cotton

Sample: 96% cotton & 4% elastane (full feeder)

14

Course [c (mm)] and wales spacing [w (mm)]: The values of course and wales spacing were obtained with the help of two formulas, c (mm) = 25.4/courses per inch and w (mm) = 25.4/wales per inch. GSM Test Test Standard ISO 33071 Five samples are taken by using GSM cutter. Then they are weighted on the electric balance. From those data the average value is calculated.

Pilling tests After rubbing of a fabric it is possible to assess the amount of pilling quantitatively either by counting the number of pills or by removing and weighing them. However, pills observed In worn garments vary in size and appearance as well as in number. The appearance depends on the presence of lint in the pills or the degree of colour contrast with the ground fabric. These factors are not evaluated if the pilling is rated solely on the number or size of pills. Furthermore the development of pills is often accompanied by other surface changes such as the development of fuzz which affect the overall acceptability of a fabric. It is therefore desirable that fabrics tested in the laboratory are assessed subjectively with regard to their acceptability and not rated solely on the number of pills developed. Counting the pills and/or weighing them as a measure of pilling is very time consuming and there is also the difficulty of deciding which surface disturbances constitute pills. The more usual way of evaluation is to assess the pilling subjectively by comparing it with either standard samples or with photographs of them or by the use of a written scale of severity. Most scales are divided into five grades and run from grade 5, no pilling, to grade 1, very severe pilling.

15

Test Method Here the test method used for pilling is ISO 12945-1:2000. For this test [4] four specimens each 125mm X 125mm are cut from the fabric. A seam allowance of 12mm is marked on the back of each square. In two of the samples the seam is marked parallel to the warp direction and in the other two parallel to the weft direction. The samples are then folded face to face and a seam is sewn on the marked line. This gives two specimens with the seam parallel to the warp and two with the seam parallel to the weft. Each specimen is turned inside out and 6mm cut off each end of it thus removing any sewing distortion. The fabric tubes made are then mounted on rubber tubes so that the length of tube showing at each end is the same. Each of the loose ends is taped with poly (vinyl chloride) (PVC) tape so that 6mm of the rubber tube is left exposed as shown in Fig. 7.4. All four specimens are then placed in one pilling box. The samples are then Table : Pilling grades Rating 5 4 3 Description No change Slight change Moderate change Points to be taken into consideration No visual change The specimen may exhibit one or both of the following: (a) moderate fuzzing (b) isolated fully formed pills Distinct fuzzing and/or pilling Dense fuzzing and/or pilling which covers the specimen.

2 1

Significant change Severe change

16

Fig 4: preparation of a pilling sample

tumbled together in a cork-lined box as shown in Fig. 7.5. The usual number of revolutions used in the test is 18,000 which takes 5 h. Some specifications require the test to be run for a different number of revolutions.

Assessment The specimens are removed from the tubes and viewed using oblique lighting in order to throw the pills into relief. The samples are then given a rating of between 1 and 5 with the help of the descriptions in Table.

Air permeability The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the passage of air through it. Air permeability is defined as the volume of air in milliliters which is passed in one second through 10Os mm2 of the fabric at a pressure difference of 10mm head of water. Air permeability, a given area in the vertical direction of the air flow rate, a given time period, is measured by the fabric test area inside the pressure difference of the fabric. Basically, it depends on weight,

17

thickness and porosity of fabric. The porosity of fabric is the demonstration of the air gap as a percentage within fabric. Materials & Equipment Standard atmospheric conditions, air permeability tester, and test samples The features of an Air permeability test device a. Circular sample holder: The circular sample holder must have a central aperture which can give the opportunity to the experiment in an area. b. Tools for the holders: That should be taken some precautions for preventing the air leakage around the edges of the test pieces. Alternatively, the leak can be measured separately and can be removed from the experimental results. c. Protective ring: There should be a protective ring together with the holders to prevent leakage as an optional use. d. Pressure indicator or manometer: The experimental part connected to the test head that can measure at least 2% accuracy for showing the pressure drop for 50 Pa, 100 Pa, 200 Pa or 500 Pa during the experimental area. e. A device for creating a smooth air stream: The proper air flow to supply a pressure drop 50 Pa and 500 Pa between the test piece on all sides of the test piece holder, the controlled temperature and humidity. f. Flowing measurer volumetric counter or measuring range of measures: To determine the air velocity (Venturi) with a minimum accuracy of 2% as cubic decimetre per minute. Test Method The method used here is ISO 9237.

18

PROCEDURE 1. Preparing permeability appropriate samples in accordance with standard for the air

2. Conditioning the samples 3. Setting the pressure and time of the air permeability test device in accordance with the sample. 4. Placing the sample to the device 5. Running the device 6. Reading the value of air permeability of the sample from the indicator of the device at the end of the test. 7. After taking the arithmetic mean of the test results, to calculate the value of air permeability. 8. Repeating the test for the appropriate number of samples in accordance with standard. Test piece is kept to a circular sample holder by being careful not to interfere in the plane of the fabric itself, by applying sufficient voltage if any wrinkles are available. It is necessary to avoid from the wrinkled places and the edges. As the air permeability of the fabric may be different on both side of it, the fabric face subjected to the experiment should be stated in the experiment report. For applying air flow towards the test part, air extractor or other vehicles are switched on and as suggested above, an air flow is adjusted until a pressure drop is created in the part of the fabric subjected to experiment. After reaching a minimum of one minute or stabilize the air flow is recorded. Under the same experimental conditions, , the experiment is repeated at least 10 times in different parts of the sample. Finally, taking the arithmetic mean of the test results, the value of air permeability is calculated.

19

The experiment Result Air permeability (R) is calculated as mm / s by using the following equation.
R
qV

qV *167 A

: The arithmetic average of the air flow rate, dm3/minute (or l / min),

A: The fabric area subjected to the test, cm3, 167: dm3 / (min x cm2) units of mm / s volume conversion factor for the transition Shrinkage test Test Method ISO 6330. For this test 2 pieces of sample of 50cmx50cm sample fabric is taken. Then they are kept together and sewn overlock stitch on 3 sides. Then bench marks are given by a template of 35cmX35cm as shown on the figure. Now it is washed in a washcator at 40 degree celcius with 22 liter water ECE detergent and 22 gm sodium perborate. Then it goes to tumble dryer. Here it is dried below 70 degree celcius until it gets dry. After drying it is conditioned for 4 hours in the conditioning room. Then the measurement is taken in wales and coursewise.

20

50cm 35cm

35cm

50cm Fig : Sample dimension for shrinkage test

Bursting strength
Test Standard ISO 13938-2 1999 Machine name: TruBurst Model 610 Manufactured by James H Heal & Co. Ltd. It is a pneumatic type bursting strength tester. Technical data of the machine: Range: 1000 kPa Machine S/N 610/06/4054

21

Software V1.08 Machine parameter for the test: Test Area 50cm Clamping -- 6.0 Bar Pressure Rate 10 kPa/s Pressure Drop10 kPa Diaphragm --1.0mm Duraflex Correction rate 2 kPa/s Correction -35.2 kPa @ 46.1mm Three samples are taken. They are clamped over an expansive diaphragm by means of a circular clamping ring. Increasing compressed air pressure is applied to the underside of the diaphragm, causing distension of the diaphragm and the fabric. The pressure is increased smoothly untile the test specimenburst. The burst strength is then determined by subtracting the diaphragm pressure from the mean bursting pressure. Here, bursting pressure is the maximum pressure applied to a test specimen clamped overran underlying until the test specimen rupture & Diaphragm pressure is the pressure applied to the diaphragm, with no test specimen present, to distend it to the mean bursting distension of the test specimen.

22

Spirality test
Test Standard AATCC 179 Test Procedure From the same sample tested for shrinkage test is taken. Now the length of left and right seam is measured and calculated the average value for precision result. Now the distortion of the widths of the bag at the open end is measured. It is done at both end and calculated the average for the precision of the value. Now the spirality can be measured from the following equation, Distortion Spirality = Length X 100 %

23

Chapter 4 Results & Discussion

24

GSM calculation
Table 1: Sample no 1(a): 100% cotton single jersey 30 Ne Serial Test Reading Average Remarks no property 01 result (if any) 02 03 04 05 01 Fabric 131.6 131.6 134.3 134.2 132.2 132.8 GSM weight G/m2 Table 2: Sample no 1(b): 30/1 cotton (96%) and 20D Lycra (4%) S/J (Full feeder) Serial Test Reading Average Remarks no property 01 result (if any) 02 03 04 05 01 Fabric 182.1 181.0 182.4 183.0 183.6 182.4 GSM weight G/m2 Table 3: Comparison among these two samples based on GSM Sample no. 1(a) 1(b) Fabric weight(gm/m2) 132.8 182.4 Standard deviation 1.22 0.88 CV% 0.92 0.48

25

Chart 1: representation of Fabric weight

Fabric weight(gm/m2)
200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 1(a) 1(b)

Fabric weight(gm/m2)

Chart 2: Representation of standard deviation

Standard deviation
1.4 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 1(a) 1(b) Standard deviation

26

Chart 3: representation of CV%

CV%
1 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0 1(a) 1(b) CV%

27

Wales/cm and course/cm calculation

Table 4: Sample no 1(a): 100% cotton single jersey 30/1 Ne Serial no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Wales/cm 38 36 35 37 39 Wales/cm (avg.) Course/cm 54 52 51 53 50 Course/cm(avg.)

37

52

Table 5: Sample no 1(b): 30/1 cotton (96%) and 20D Lycra (4%) S/J (full feeder) Serial no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Wales/cm 42 40 38 39 41 Wales/cm (avg.) Course/cm 57 59 61 58 60 Course/cm(avg.)

40

59

Table 6: Comparison among these two samples based on Wales / cm and Course/cm: Sample no 1(a) 1(b) Wales/cm 37 40 Course/cm 52 59

28

Chart 4: Representation of Wales per cm

Wales/cm
40.5 40 39.5 39 38.5 38 37.5 37 36.5 36 35.5 1(a) 1(b) Wales/cm

Chart 5: Representation of Course per cm

Course/cm
60 58 56 54 52 50 48 1(a) 1(b) Course/cm

29

Course Spacing & Wales Spacing Calculation

Table 7: Sample no 1(a): 100% cotton single jersey 30/1 Ne Serial no Wales spacing Wales spacing Course Course w(mm) (avg.) spacing c(mm) spacing (avg.) 1. 0.26 0.19 2. 0.28 0.19 0.27 0.19 3. 0.29 0.2 4. 0.27 0.19 5. 0.26 0.2 Table 8: Sample no 1(b): 30/1 cotton (96%) and 20D Lycra (4%) S/J (full feeder) Serial no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Wales spacing Wales spacing w(mm) (avg.) 0.24 0.25 0.25 0.26 0.26 0.24 Course Course spacing c(mm) spacing (avg.) 0.18 0.17 0.17 0.16 0.17 0.16

Table 9: Comparison among these two samples based on Wales / cm and Course/cm: Sample no 1(a) 1(b) Wales Spacing 0.27 0.25 Course Spacing 0.19 0.17

30

Chart 6: representation of wales spacing

wales spacing w(mm)

0.275 0.27 0.265 0.26 0.255 0.25 0.245 0.24 1(a) 2(b) wales spacing w(mm)

Chart 7: Representation of Course spacing

course spacing c(mm)

0.195 0.19 0.185 0.18 0.175 0.17 0.165 0.16 1(a) 2(b) course spacing c(mm)

31

Stitch Density
Table 10: calculation of stitch density Sample 1(a) 1(b) Wales/cm 37 40 Course/cm 52 59 Stitch density=wpcXcpc cm2 1924 2360

Chart 8: representation of Stitch Density

Stitch Density (cm2)

2500

2000

1500 Stitch Density (cm2) 1000

500

0 1(a) 1(b)

32

ICI Pilling test report

Table 11: Sample no 1(a): 100% cotton single jersey 30 Ne Serial no. No. of cycles 14400 14400 Rating in Wales direction 4 4 Avg. rating in Wales direction 4 Course direction 4 4 Avg. rating in Course direction 4

1. 2.

Table 12: Sample no 1(b): 30/1 cotton (96%) and 20D Lycra (4%) S/J (full feeder) Serial no. No. of cycles 14400 14400 Rating in Wales direction 4 4 Avg. rating in Wales direction 4 Course direction 4 4 Avg. rating in Course direction 4

1. 2.

Comparison among these two samples based on ICI Pilling test: Sincere observation on above tabulated value obtained from ICI Pilling test shows that rating is not influenced by the use of Elastane as an Elastane yarn.

33

Shrinkage test
Table 13: Sample no 1(a): 100% cotton single jersey 30/1 Ne Serial no. 01. 02. Direction Length Width Original length(cm) 35.00 35.00 Length after wash (cm) 33.20 33.40 Shrinkage% -5.1 -4.6

Table 14: Sample no 1(b): 30/1 cotton (96%) and 20D Lycra (4%) S/J (full feeder) Serial no. 01. 02. Direction Length Width Original length(cm) 35.00 35.00 Length after wash (cm) 33.60 34.30 Shrinkage% -4.0 -2.0

Table 15: Observation shows that using elastane yarn can reduce the shrinkage percentage. Sample no. 1(a). 1(b). Shrinkage in length direction -5.1 -4.0 Shrinkage in width direction -4.6 -2.0

34

Chart 9: Representation of shrinkage test

0 Shrinkage in length direction -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 1(a). 1(b). Shrinkage in width direction

35

Bursting strength test

Table 16: Sample no 1(a): 100% cotton single jersey 30/1 Ne Serial no. Bursting strength Bursting (K Pa) distension (mm) 01. 116.7 30.0 02. 122.8 30.3 03. 132.6 30.8 Table 17: Mean value of bursting strength Mean Co efficient of Variation ( CV% ) 124.1 6.45 30.4 1.37 Bursting Time (s) 15 15 17 15.7 7.37

Table 18: Sample no 1(b): 30/1 cotton (96%) and 20D Lycra (4%) S/J (full feeder) Serial no. 01. 02. 03. Bursting strength (K Pa) 151.2 143.3 144.3 Bursting distension (mm) 45.2 45.7 45.5 Bursting Time (s) 19 18 18

Table 19: Mean value of Bursting strength Mean Co efficient of variation ( CV% ) 146.3 45.5 18.3

2.91

0.54

3.15

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Table 20: Comparison between these two samples

Sample no. 1(a). 1(b). Bursting strength (K N/m2) 124.1 146.3 CV% of bursting strength 6.45 2.91

Chart 10: Bursting strength

Bursting strength
150 145 140 135 130 125 120 115 110 1(a). 1(b).

(K N/m2)

Bursting strength N/m2)

(K

Chart 11: Representation of CV% of bursting strength

CV% of bursting strength

7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1(a). 1(b). CV% of bursting strength

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Air Permeability test

Table 21: air permeability test results Sample type Obs. 1 Obs. 2 Obs. 3 Obs. 4 Obs. 5 Average Value l/m2/s 663.6 30.6

100%cotton Cotton/elastane

662.6 30.1

664.6 31.1

663.3 30.4

663.9 30.8

663.6 30.6

Chart 12: Representation of Air Permeability

Air permeability (l/m2/s)

700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 100% cotton cotton/ elastane air permeability l/m2/s

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Spirality Test: Table 22: Spirality test result Sample 100% cotton Cotton/elastane Spirality(%) 1.1 1.9

Chart 13: Representation of spirality results

spirality (%)
2 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 100% cotton cotton/elastane spirality (%)

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Stitch length: Table 23: stitch length result Sample 100% cotton Cotton/ elastane Obs. 1 3.02 2.98 Obs. 2 3.03 2.97 Obs. 3 3.00 2.99 Obs. 4 3.01 2.99 Obs. 5 2.99 2.97 Avg. Stitch length(mm) 3.01 2.98

Chart 14: Representation of stitch length

3.015 3.01 3.005 3 2.995 2.99 2.985 2.98 2.975 2.97 2.965 100% cotton cotton/elastane

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Discussion
The weight of the samples increase as the loop length decreases or the amount of elastane increases, because the greater the amount of elastane, the tighter the fabric. Air permeability is lower for full feeder cotton/elastane fabrics and greatest for cotton samples, because tighter fabrics are obtained with elastane in the knitted structures. The difference between the air permeability values of these two samples is consistently higher. The variation in air permeability values of samples knitted from cotton yarn is significantly high in accordance with loop length. But for full feeder samples, there are no important changes related to loop length. The pilling grades of both the samples are same. Therefore, presence of elastane doesnt affect the pilling property. The percentage of spirality, is greater in cotton/spandex fabric. The course spacing is less in the full feeder fabric because of reduction of loop length. it is same in wales spacing. Course per cm & wales per cm increases in the cotton/elastane fabric because of reduction of loop length. As a result Stitch density increases in cotton/elastane fabric. Bursting strength of cotton/elastane fabric is higher than the 100% cotton s/j. Because the use of elastane helps the fabric to expand more than the 100% cotton s/j and it needs more pressure and more time to burst the sample. The shrinkage percentage of cotton/elastane fabric is less than the 100% cotton s/j fabric. Because elastanefibre helps to retain the fabrics original dimension as far as possible after washing.

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Chapter 5 Conclusion

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Conclusions In this paper, we discuss the dimensional and physical properties of cotton and cotton/elastane single jersey fabrics, and we conclude that these parameters are affected by the amount of elastane in the fabric and the loop length. The weight and thickness of full feeder cotton/elastane fabrics are higher, but air permeability and the degree of spirality are lower than 100% cotton knitted fabric, respectively. It is also apparent that the dimensional variations widthwise for fabrics knitted with cotton alone are higher, while the lengthwise variations for the same fabrics are less after relaxation.

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Literature Cited [1] Schulze, U. (1993), Rechts/Links-Rundstrick-Bindungen n DurKombinationmitDorlastan, Wirkerei und Strickerei Tech., 5, p: 456. [2]Ceken, F., 1995, Some Investigations of the Dimensional Properties of Knitted Fabrics Containing Different Materials, Doctoral thesis, Ege University, Izmir. [3]Tasmaci, M., 1996, Effects of Spandex Yarn on Single Jersey Fabrics Knitted with Naked Lycra Yarn, TekstilveKonfeksiyon, 6, p: 422-426. [4]Meri B., Grarda A., Proceeding of TheXIIth Textile and Leather Romanian Conference, October 2002, pp. 17-19. [5]Marmaral, A., 2003, Dimensional and Physical Properties of Cotton /Spandex Single Jersey Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, 73(1), p: 11-14. [6]Marmaral, A., zdil, N. and DnmezKretzschmar, S., 2006, Thermal Comfort and Elastic Knitted Fabrics, International Conf. CIRAT- 2, Monastir-Tunisia. [7] Baozhu, K., Weiyuan, Z., "The optimal design of three-layer plated fabrics", Fibres& Textiles in Eastern Europe, 15, 2007, 59-61. [8] Bruer, S. M., Powell, M., Smith, G., "Threedimensionally knit spacer fabrics: a review of production techniques", Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4, 2005, 1-31. [9] Cuden, A. P., Srdjak, M., Pelko, H., "Optimization of the cotton/Lycra plain knitted Fabric parameters", International Journal of Polymeric Materials, 47, 2000, 633 648. [10] zdil, N., "Stretch and Bagging Properties of Denim Fabrics Containing Different Rates of Elastane", Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 1, 2008, 63-67. [11] Gorjanc, S., Bukosek V., "The behaviour of fabric with elastane yarn during stretching, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 3, 2008, 63-68.

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[i] Grunfeld, A. J., "Knit fabric with elastic combination yarn", US Patent 5198288, 1993. [ii] Bon M.,"Method for making patterned plated knit fabric", European Patent 1006822, 1998. [iii] Sangiacomo F., "Method for making patterned plated knit fabric", US Patent 6715325, 2004. [iv] Miller, R. A., Atkins, J. D., Rummel, D. R., " Cotton jersey fabric construction having improved stretch characteristics", US Patent 7040124, 2006 [v] Pfangen, T., "Finishing of woven and knitted fabrics with elastane fibers", Asian Textile Business, 585, 2003, 46-51. [vi] Iyer, C., Mammel, B., Schach, W., "Circular Knitting", Meisenbach GmbH, Bamberg, Germany, ISBN 3-87525-066-4, 1995. [vii] "Dorlastanin circular knitting", Dorlastanproduct information technical report, Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe GmbH, Germany, 2008. Books Jerde, Judith. Encyclopedia of Textiles. Facts on File, 1992. Lewin, M. and J. Preston, ed. High Technology Fibers. New York: Marcel Dekker, 1985. Other iv. Devra, A. U.S. Patent 5,303, 882, 1994. Goodrich, C & W. Evans. U.S. Patent 5,028,642, 1991. [Article by: Perry Romanowski]. Bayazit, A., Introduction to Weft knitting, EgeUniv..TkaumYayin Izmir, 2000. No.9,

v.

vi.

Ceken. F., Some Investigations of the dimensional properties of knitted of fabrics containing different materials. Doctoral thesis, EgeUniv. Izmir. 1995.

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Websites: 1. www.asahi-kasei.co.jp/fibers/en/roica/index.html. 2. www.creora.com. 3. www.dorlastan.de. 4. www.elaspan.com. 5. www.fillattice.it. 6. www.fujibo.co.jp. 7. www.invista.com. 8. www.lycra.com.

9. www.pegaheo.com/sheiflex.htm.

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