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In “Tripe and Truffles” (pg. 32), our roving correspondent and fearless buongustaio (he who appreciates the pleasures of food) Adam Gollner rates the lowly lampredotto among the glittering highlights in the City of Lilies. Having eaten a few there my

To make khorkhog, first gather stones from a river. Now set the stones over a bed of coals. When they’re blazing hot, toss into a large cauldron and add the meat of one lamb, salt, potatoes, a little water, and some vodka. The animal, butchered and k

In Lecce, a singular Italian city of whitewashed dwellings, Baroque architecture, and palm trees near the southern tip of Italy’s heel, most restaurants have served the region’s comfort food for centuries—peasant dishes like pezzetti di cavallo al su

This past November, in Tokyo, I stood pressed against a bar with five grown men, in a barely lit space the size of a walk-in closet. When someone moved, the rest of us shifted like a single organism. Winestand Waltz, a “standing bar” in Ebisu, was a

As you crank the creaky handle of a molino de mano, the hand-operated grinder seen on the left, a flurry of ground corn cascades out the front and a gust of air rushes by. It’s half the satisfaction of making your own masa, an essential building bloc

If you’ve never been in the presence of a day-old calf, they happen to be disconcertingly large. Recently I followed one—the color and size of a golden retriever—as it stumbled around Diane St. Clair’s barn, bleating loudly. Rain pounded on the roof,

OF ALL THE SENSORIAL DELIGHTS AVAILable in the overstimulating tourist trap that is Florence—making out in the moonlight on the Ponte Vecchio; communing with Botticellis and Donatellos; pairing fire-charred Chianina bisteccas with back vintages of Le

High up one of Lisbon’s interlocking hills in the neighborhood of Mouraria, where many of the city’s immigrants reside and the homes lean perilously into one another, I’m eating cracked crab on the jammed cobblestone patio of Cantinho do Aziz. It swi

My friend Olivia’s mother and aunt are preparing quintessential Basque dishes for dinner. There will be blistered padrón peppers, along with baked goods. For the moment, it’s a squid cook-off, and the sisters eye each other’s mise-en-place in the aun

Dominic Lyne, a local jewelry seller, caught between pints at Foxy John’s, a beloved combination pub and hardware store. THERE’S A TYPE OF PERSON WHO TRAVELS TO THE DINGLE PENINSULAto build a village from scratch, one with a schoolhouse and cobblesto

The briny flavor and dramatic color of cuttlefish ink It may be spring, the season of vibrant pink rhubarb, pastel green peas, and emerald ramps, but I’ve been gravitating toward the moody hue of cuttlefish ink. For “Tripe and Truffles” (pg. 32), we

J ust after sunrise on Iran’s volcanic Mount Sabalan, the minarets of a mosque peered out over the expanse of clouds, and cups of hot mint tea made their way around the huddle. The mosque was originally built by American soldiers during World War II,

By JULIA COOKE Photographs by EVAN SUNG High up one of Lisbon’s interlocking hills in the neighborhood of Mouraria, where many of the city’s immigrants reside and the homes lean perilously into one another, I’m eating cracked crab on the jammed cobbl

In “Tripe and Truffles” (pg. 32), our roving correspondent and fearless buongustaio (he who appreciates the pleasures of food) Adam Gollner rates the lowly lampredotto among the glittering highlights in the City of Lilies. Having eaten a few there my

By Jane Sigal PHOTOGRAPHS BY BETH GALTON Food Styling By Mariana Velasquez My friend Olivia’s mother and aunt are preparing quintessential Basque dishes for dinner. There will be blistered padrón peppers, along with baked goods. For the moment, it’s

This past November, in Tokyo, I stood pressed against a bar with five grown men, in a barely lit space the size of a walk-in closet. When someone moved, the rest of us shifted like a single organism. Winestand Waltz, a “standing bar” in Ebisu, was a

Story and photograph by KLAUS THYMANN J ust after sunrise on Iran’s volcanic Mount Sabalan, the minarets of a mosque peered out over the expanse of clouds, and cups of hot mint tea made their way around the huddle. The mosque was originally built by

PHOTOGRAPH BY MATT TAYLOR-GROSS The briny flavor and dramatic color of cuttlefish ink It may be spring, the season of vibrant pink rhubarb, pastel green peas, and emerald ramps, but I’ve been gravitating toward the moody hue of cuttlefish ink. For “T

BY STACY ADIMANDO In Lecce, a singular Italian city of whitewashed dwellings, Baroque architecture, and palm trees near the southern tip of Italy’s heel, most restaurants have served the region’s comfort food for centuries—peasant dishes like pezzett

BY STACY ADIMANDO • RECIPES BY GONZALO GUZMÁN PHOTOGRAPHS BY HEAMI LEE As you crank the creaky handle of a molino de mano, the hand-operated grinder seen on the left, a flurry of ground corn cascades out the front and a gust of air rushes by. It’s ha

By Adam Leith GollnerPHOTOGRAPHS by MICHELLE HEIMERMAN OF ALL THE SENSORIAL DELIGHTS AVAILable in the overstimulating tourist trap that is Florence—making out in the moonlight on the Ponte Vecchio; communing with Botticellis and Donatellos; pairing f

STORY & PHOTOGRAPHS BY DYLAN + JENI To make khorkhog, first gather stones from a river. Now set the stones over a bed of coals. When they’re blazing hot, toss into a large cauldron and add the meat of one lamb, salt, potatoes, a little water, and som

ALEX HALBERSTADT If you’ve never been in the presence of a day-old calf, they happen to be disconcertingly large. Recently I followed one—the color and size of a golden retriever—as it stumbled around Diane St. Clair’s barn, bleating loudly. Rain pou

BY MICHAEL RUHLMAN Photographs by MICHELLE HEIMERMAN THERE’S A TYPE OF PERSON WHO TRAVELS TO THE DINGLE PENINSULAto build a village from scratch, one with a schoolhouse and cobblestone streets. There’s a type of person who, after leaving art school,