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2018 Vol. 4
Saveur
Definitive culinary guide — evoking the flavors of food around the world.
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Saveur
Bench Warmers
Saveur
Leitura de 2 mins
Connected by Baking
AT THIS TIME OF YEAR, WHEN MUCH of the world is muted, hushed, and hibernating, bakers everywhere are in overdrive. The rich scents of chocolate, cinnamon, and toasted nuts pour out of our home kitchens on the regular, and bakeries decorate more cake
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
Regional & Ethnic
Master the Classic
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT CORNETT FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO AND KAT CRADDOCK “ALTHOUGH THERE IS NO WRITTEN EVIDENCE THAT CRUMB CAKE was invented in Germany,” Alfons Schuhbeck, author of The German Cookbook, says, “its emergence is attributed to the c
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
Silver Lining
BY SARAH KHAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY NISHAT FATIMA YOU HEAR THEM long before you see them. The lanes off Charminar, the sepia-toned arch in Old City that defines Hyderabad’s skyline, pulse with the energy of thousands of people on a thousand missions: some b
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
Play with Fruit
BENEATH THE STREUSEL, German crumb cakes often have a layer of colorful fruit. “[It] can vary in different seasons,” Schuhbeck says, noting that apples, cherries, apricots, and prunes are popular. According to Beranbaum, adding fruit sparingly is key
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
City of Bread
BY MICHAEL SNYDER PHOTOGRAPHS BY FELIPE LUNA WHEN DAVID CUAPIO’S GREAT-grandfather started making bread in the early 1900s, San Juan Totolac was just a tiny hillside village. He and his family would make their dough from wheat ground at the Spanish m
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
All the Marbles
ALTHOUGH CONSERVATIVE BAKERS WILL TELL YOU NEVER TO mess with a cake recipe, crumb cake’s eggy, resilient batter can be added to and marbled with other flavors with minimal risk. The easiest add-in is unsweetened cocoa powder, which you can simply st
Saveur
Leitura de 2 mins
Regional & Ethnic
Services Rendered
BY SHANE MITCHELL PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHELLE HEIMERMAN “I WAS NEVER ALLOWED TO HAVE PIGS GROWING UP,” said Jennifer Romer of Slate Creek Farm in northern New York, as she slid ground pork fat into her oven to render. “My dad didn’t like them, so he alwa
Saveur
Leitura de 5 mins
Stuffed Crust
BY KAT CRADDOCK PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT CORNETT FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO AND KAT CRADDOCK ICONS BY HUBERT TERESZKIEWICZ MEAT PIES FROM CANADA’S Quebec province, called tourtières, are thought of much like homemade pot roast is Stateside: a simple
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
Resurrecting Rice Bread
BY AMBER GIBSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY GORDON MUNRO IN COLONIAL TIMES, NEARLY ALL the bread in the Carolinas was made with rice. Slaves of some wealthy households were sent to France to learn to cook, starting with James Hemings, one of Thomas Jefferson’s sl
Saveur
Leitura de 2 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
Perfect The Formula
The Crust: Chef Dion-Lavallée dispenses with the traditional six layers of interior pastry, instead relying on chopped potato as a starchy, binding element. And while he uses separate doughs for the top and bottom layers, we simplified that by using
Saveur
Leitura de 2 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
Fit For A Fisherman
SERVES 4; Photo p. 54 Active: 45 min. • Total: 1 hr. The most classic of the region’s a la sal (baked in salt) dishes is made with gilt-head bream, a silver fish with a distinguishing gold spot on its cheeks (dorada means “golden” in Spanish). Groupe
Saveur
Leitura de 2 mins
Regional & Ethnic
Layers of Tradition
BY MARGARITA GOKUN SILVER ILLUSTRATION BY KYLE FEWELL In Russia, where Christmas was banned in 1928 during Bolshevik rule and not reinstated until 1991, New Year’s Eve has long been the biggest celebration of the year. Russians put up decorative tree
Saveur
Leitura de 16 mins
Their Little Paris
Photographs by JOANN PAI By Sara Lieberman Down six winding flights of stairs, across the street, and onto rue Faidherbe, the quartier’s main thoroughfare—with its poppy-themed florist, organic and biodynamic market, local post office, and neighborho
Saveur
Leitura de 2 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
For the Birds
SERVES 4 Active: 50 min. • Total: 1 hr. 30 min. Stuffing these petite birds with winter herbs creates an aromatic steam that flavors the meat as it cooks. A second round of roasting and a layer of sauce leaves them juicy and sweet. Four 1-lb. Cornis
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
The Wagashi Artist
BY STEFANIE ELLIS PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMBER FOUTS AS CURIOUS AS THE TINY CAKE Alice ate during her adventures in Wonderland, wagashi seems to beckon: Eat me. Look closely at the bite-size Japanese confections’ intricately sculpted exteriors, and you’ll se
Saveur
Leitura de 3 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
Full Steam Ahead
BY CARLA CAPALBO PHOTOGRAPH BY GRANT CORNETT FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO AND KAT CRADDOCK STILL-WARM FRUIT CRUMBLES, milky rice puddings, jam tarts—a meal from our English nanny never ended without one of these classic British puddings. That word,
Saveur
Leitura de 6 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
Test Kitchen
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT TAYLOR-GROSS Mail-order options from these six producers restore panettone’s good name PANETTONE IS A PECULIAR HOLIDAY TRADITION. Beloved by some, it’s written off by others for the grocery-store versions that are so often cloying
Saveur
Leitura de 4 mins
Built-In Buffers
SERVES 4 Total: 1 hr. 20 min. Small green alcaparras—the edible flower buds of the caper bush—grow in abundance on the island of Menorca. Salt-cured and then stored in vinegar, they find their way into many local dishes. 6–8 medium ripe plum tomatoe
Saveur
Leitura de 6 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
The Brittle Invasion
BY GENEVIEVE KO PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT CORNETT FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO AND KAT CRADDOCK NEARLY EVERY CUISINE has at least one brittle to boast about. Crunchy, sweet, and quick to throw together, the candy comes in an endless array of textures an
Saveur
Leitura de 10 mins
Home To The Country Stores
BY JJ GOODE PHOTOGRAPHS BY WILLIAM HEREFORD Wyant’s Store is located in White Hall, Virginia, a town with a population just shy of 700, surrounded by farms and vineyards. The ancient clapboard building practically teeters on the side of a country roa
Saveur
Leitura de 1 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
Under Cover
BY JEFF KOEHLER PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT CORNETT FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO AND KAT CRADDOCK Whole fish are ideal for salt baking; the intact skin and head helps prevent too much salt contact with the meat, instead keeping it tender and moist. ON THE
Saveur
Leitura de 4 mins
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
Panettone Town
BY MINA HOLLAND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELENA HEATHERWICK It always smells like Christmas in Pinerolo. Whatever the month, visitors to this little Piedmontese town 30 miles southwest of Turin are greeted by the season’s essential olfactory cues as soon as the
Saveur
Leitura de 6 mins
The MISSING PIECE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT CORNETT FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO AND KAT CRADDOCK First, let me be clear: A lemon chiffon pie is not the same as a lemon meringue pie. You’ve probably had the latter—a baked custard capped with a stiff topping made of egg w
Saveur
Leitura de 7 mins
The Cardamom Cowboy
BY MAX FALKOWITZ PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIELE VOLPE BEFORE WE CAN SEE THE cardamom plants, Amilcar Pereira and his men have to castrate the bulls. That morning, in a pickup truck on the bumpy mountain climb to the cloud forests of Guatemala’s Alta Verapaz,
Saveur
Leitura de 8 mins
Baking With Cardamom
RECIPES BY KAT CRADDOCK AND STACY ADIMANDO PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT CORNETT FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO AND KAT CRADDOCK MAKES 15 COOKIE SANDWICHES Active: 1 hr. 30 min. • Total: 10 hr. In many parts of the world, from Asia to the Americas, cardamom f
Saveur
Leitura de 8 mins
The Village Baker and His Pretzels
By BEN CRAIR Photographs by OLIVER HAUSER A few days before I visited baker Arnd Erbel in his southern German bakery, a Hamburg newspaper described him as a “bread god.” Erbel’s breads are renowned among baking connoisseurs and served in many of Germ
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