The Training Program on Sewing and Embroidery Processing to Empower Mozambiques Human Resources

Moekarto Moeliono
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The Training Program on Sewing and Embroidery Processing to Empower Mozambiques Human Resources

EMBROIDERY PROCESS

Moekarto Moeliono
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EMBROIDERY CLASSIFICATION
Embroidery can be classified according to whether the design is stitched on top of or through the foundation fabric, and by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric.

Embroidered Easter eggs. Works by Inna Forostyuk, the folk master from the Luhansk region (Ukraine)

Japanese free embroidery in silk and metal threads, contemporary.

Cross-stitch counted-thread embroidery.clot h,Hungary, mid20th century

Hardanger, a whitework technique. Contemporary

HISTORY - SIMPLE STITCH (RUNNING STITCH)

TOOLS : 1. Needle and Cloth (FABRICS), done with Hand only 2. Sewing Machine 3. Embroidery Machine (Mechanic) 4. Embroidery Machine (Computer System)

BACKGROUND
Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain stitch is an ancient craft - examples of surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring States period (5th-3rd century BC). Handmade chain stitch embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic "drawing" in thread. Chain stitches are also used in making tambour lace, needlelace, macram and crochet.
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BACKGROUND

Machine sewing and embroidery

Chain stitch was the stitch used by early sewing machines; however, as it is easily unraveled from fabric, this was soon replaced with the more secure lockstitch.

Machine embroidery in chain stitch, often in traditional hand-worked crewel designs, is found on curtains, bed linens, and upholstery fabrics.
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Hand Stitch

Braid stitch Basic chain stitch

Cable chain stitch

Open chain stitch Knotted chain stitch 7

Hand Stitch

2 5 1 3 4 6 7

Petal chain stitch (1) Rosette chain stitch (2) Rosette chain line (3) Singalese chain stitch (4) Twisted chain stitch (5) Wheat-ear stitch (6) Zig-zag chain stitch (7)

STITCH BY MACHINE

The Basic Chain stitch is made by first sending the needle down through the material. Then, as the needle rises upward, the friction of the thread against the fabric is sufficient to form a small loop on the underside of the material. That loop is caught by a circular needle which is beneath the work. The machine then moves the material forward projecting the loop on the underside from the previous stitch. The next drop of the needle goes through the previous loop. The circular needle then releases the first loop and picks up the new loop and the process repeat
The Double chain stitch uses two threads. It is rarely used in today's machines except for ornamental purposes because it uses a lot of thread.

STITCH BY MACHINE

Formation of a simple chain stitch using a looper.

Formation of the double locking chain stitch

Double chain stitch

Sewing Animation.ppt

Basic chain stitch

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DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN PROCESS

In sewing and embroidery, a satin stitch or damask stitch is a series of flat stitches that are used to completely cover a section of the background fabric. Narrow rows of satin stitch can be executed on a standard sewing machine using a zigzag stitch or a special satin stitch foot. In order to maintain a smooth edge, shapes can be outlined with back, split or chain stitch before the entire shape including the outline is covered with satin stitch. Machine-made satin stitch is often used to outline and attach appliques to the ground fabric. Satin stitch is frequently made with embroidery thread, which has less twist than standard sewing thread. This gives a more uniform effect, with the individual threads' filaments merging together. While good sewing threads produce acceptable satin stitch, low quality threads usually do not sit straight, and produce an uneven result.the colour of each thread usually does not matter .
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SEVERALS OF SATIN STITCH (SAMPLE)

Satin stitch

Brick stitch

Encroaching satin stitch

Long-and-short stitch

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SEVERALS OF SATIN STITCH

Brick stitch, in which alternate rows of satin stitches are offset by half the stitch length. Worked in several related colors, brick stitch allows stepped shading. (Brick stitch is also the name of a beadwork technique.) Encroaching satin stitch, in which the top of each row of stitches is set between the bottom of the stitches on the previous row. Long-and-short stitch, used for fine shading; in the first row of satin stitches, every other stitch is half the length of its neighbors. Subsequent rows in related colors are all of the same length. Padded satin stitch, in which shapes are filled with rows of small running stitches which are then covered with satin stitches. Satin stitch is frequently made with embroidery thread, which has less twist than standard sewing thread. This gives a more uniform effect, with the individual threads' filaments merging together.

While good sewing threads produce acceptable satin stitch, low quality threads usually do not sit straight, and produce an uneven result.the colour of each thread usually does not matter .

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EMBROIDERY PROCESS

HANDICRAFT BY HAND SEWING MACHINE

EMBROIDERY MACHINE

EMBROIDERY MACHINE WITH COMPUTER SYSTEM

SOFTWARE-2012.ppt

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MACHINE AND EQUIPMENTS

EMBROIDERY MACHINE

MANUAL MACHINE

EQUIPMENT.ppt

HIDH SPEED EMBROIDERY MACHINE sewing HIGH SPEED.ppt

EMBROIDERY MACHINE WITH COMPUTER SYSTEM (ON LINE)

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PROCEDURE OF EMBROIDERY

Preparation
1. TO PREPARE CLOTH AND TOOLS

2. TO MAKE EMBROIDERY

THE DESIGN OF ON CLOTH

Designing
Printing Embroidering Shaping

DESIGNING=EMBROIDERY.ppt DESIGNING BY COMPUTER-DAKOT =MOEKARTO.ppt

3. DESIGN DUPLICATION AND PUT ON THE CLOTH DAKOT=386.JEF fabrics-MOZAMBIQUE2012.ppt

4. CLOTH ARRANGING ON THE RING. 5.

Pattern EMBRODEIRY\Embroidery_stuff_Design\embroidery stuff\10089.JEF Pattern Sample-EMBRODEIRY\Embroidery_stuff_Design\embroidery stuff\10151.JEF

YARN

FEEDING

Sample-

6. MACHINE CHECKING
7. EMBROIDERY PROCESS
FILM\MOEKARTO MOELIONO-PRAXIS 2-Computerized Logo Toyota.flv EMBROIDERY-

Sewing Ironing and Packing

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FILLING
Technology.flv

MOEKARTO MOELIONO-Sew -FILL- Embroidery FILLING OF STITCH.ppt

MOEKARTO-1.EOF MOEKARTO-2.eof

8. FINISHING MOEKARTO-embroidery process.flv

DESIGNING MANUAL
SKETCH
2166.JEF

COMPUTER (NOT ON
LINE)EMBROIDERYFILM\ILLUSTRATION TECHNQUES IN CORELDRAW X3 BY MOEKARTO MOELIONO.flv

COMPUTER ON LINE
MOEKARTO-wilcom decostudio tutorial.flv
MO EKA RTO-wilcom decostudio tutorial.flv

ILLUST RA TION TEC H NQU ES IN C O RELD RA W X3 BY MO EKA RTO M OELION O.flv

SHAPING
DUPLICATION

FINISH DRAWING

COLOURING

EMBROIDERY MACHINE

FINISH DRAWING

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SAMPLE TUTORIAL
DESIGNING BY COMPUTER 2
EMBIRDMANAGER

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SAMPLE TUTORIAL
DESIGNING BY COMPUTER

COLORLAYER

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SAMPLE TUTORIAL
DESIGNING BY COMPUTER

THREAD LIST

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SAMPLE TUTORIAL
DESIGNING BY COMPUTER

THUMBNAILS

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SAMPLE TUTORIAL
3-D

CHANGE EDITOR

SVE AS- MACINE LIST DAKOT=386.JEF

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DUPLICATION BY COMPUTER 3

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DAKOT=386.JEF

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MACHINE AND EQUIPMENTS

EMBROIDERY MACHINE

MANUAL MACHINE
sewing process.ppt

EQUIPMENT.ppt

HIDH SPEED EMBROIDERY MACHINE sewing HIGH SPEED.ppt

EMBROIDERY MACHINE WITH COMPUTER SYSTEM (ON LINE)MOEKARTO-embroidery process.flv

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Manual EMBROIDERY MACHINE

Manual Embroidery Machine

Expl :

1. Feed dog
2. Raise the presser foot 3. Presser bar lifter 4. Balance wheel 5. Stop motion
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EQUIPMENT

Hand wheel
Feed regulator disk Spring and slack thread regulator

Reverse press lever

THE AUXILIARY EQUIPMENTS FOR EMBROIDERY

1. Scissors 2. Ring 3. Needle of embroidery 4. Thread 5. Hard cloth 6. Solder

7. Soft Paper
8. Pencil, Color pen

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FILLING OF STITCH

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EMBROIDERY WITH LACE SYSTEM (VERY SPECIAL)

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EMBROIDERY DESIGN WITH JACQUARD SYSTEM (LACE SYSTEM)

RASCHEL-11621.mpg

RA SC H EL-11621.mpg

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The Quality Product of Embroidery

The Quality Product of Embroidery depends on :

1. Embroidery Machine

2. Skills of Worker
3. Designer 4. Methode 5. Raw material (Cloth-Fabrics)
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SAMPLE TUTORIAL

ILLUSTRATION TECHNQUES IN CORELDRAW X3 BY MOEKARTO MOELIONO.flv

MOEKARTO-wilcom decostudio tutorial.flv

CORELDRAW
ILLUST RA TIO N TEC H NQ U ES IN C O RELD RA W X3 BY MO EKA RTO M O ELIO N O .flv

EMBIRD

MO EKA RTO-wilcom decostudio tutorial.flv

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FABRIC RESULTS (EMBIRD SOFTWARE) Sew simulation

CHICKS.JEF

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