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BY: JAYATI CHADHHA JHARNA KANNAN KAJAL SHAKYA KALITA LAMBA KINJAL CHAWLA MOHAMMAD MUMTAZ
TEXTILE FINISHING
CLASSIFICATION
Textile Finishes are classified in several ways:
Aesthetic Finishes
Functional Finishes
AESTHETIC FINISHES
Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and /or hand or
Shearing
Softening Stiffening
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
Functional Finishes improve the performance properties
Flame Resistant
Mothproof Shrinkage Control Soil Release
Water Proof/Repellant
Permanent
TEMPORARY FINISHES
A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash
is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears during subsequent washing and usage. e.g
Calendering Embossing
Starching
Softening
PERMANENT FINISHES
If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and washing treatments, then the finish is said to be permanent finish.
e.g.
Resin Finish
Water Proof
Flame Proof
finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not afterwards. e.g. Schreiner Calendering Buckram Finish
Chemical Finishes
Mechanical Finishes
CHEMICAL FINISHES
Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying. These are also called as wet Finishes.
MECHANICAL FINISHES
Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric appearance. This is also known as dry finish.
Calendering
Raising Sanforising Milling
CALENDERING
Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure applied are variable. provide the appropriate finish to fabric.
steel to elastic thermoplastic.
OBJECTIVES OF CALENDERING
touch to the fabric To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness To reduce the air permeability by closing the threads To increase the lustre To reduce the yarn slippage To increase the opacity of the fabric Surface patterning by embossing
TYPES OF CALENDERING
Cire Calendering
Embossed Calendering Moir Calendering Schrenier Calendering
CALENDERING MACHINES
SAMPLES
CALENDERING OR
NAPPING
cottons, spun silks, and spun rayons, including both woven and knitted types, to raise a velvety, soft surface.
The process involves passing the fabric over revolving
cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short, loose fibres, usually from the weft yarns, to the surface, forming a nap. The process, which increases warmth, is frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to blankets.
SHEARING
Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is
mowers, and the amount of shearing depends upon the desired height of the nap or pile, with such fabrics as gabardine receiving very close shearing.
Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other
BRUSHING
fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics.
removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap.
SINGEING
Also called gassing, singeing is a process applied to
both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric. Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated material over a wet surface to assure that any smoldering is halted.
Singeing
machines
BEETLING
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard, flat surface with high lustre and also to make texture less porous.
an iron cylinder, is passed through a machine in which it is pounded with heavy wooden mallets.
DECATING
develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics. When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage.
TENTERING
These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other, and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions. Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame, consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric, and travelling on tracks.
As the fabric passes through the heated chamber, creases and
wrinkles are removed, the weave is straightened, and the fabric is dried to its final size. When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing;
CREPING
A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing. In one method,
which is not permanent, the cloth is passed, in the presence of steam, between hot rollers filled with indentations producing waved and puckered areas.
paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form; or a resist paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda.
The treated areas shrink, and the untreated areas pucker. If the
pattern is applied in the form of stripes, the effect is called pliss; an allover design produces blister crepe.
CREPE EFFECT
RAISING
1.
Napping
Using wire-covered rolls to "dig out" individual fiber ends to the surface
2.
Sueding
Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.) to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent shade change. Special type of raised surface fabric is corduroy Sueding, sanding- creates softer hand of fabric.
SUEDE
SHEARING
Use of rotary blade to trim raised surfaces to a uniform
height.
MERCERISATION
Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives
fabric a lustrous appearance. The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp.
The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood,
structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose. Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre. This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and gives the fiber a softer feel.
and handle.
The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a
concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen, the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased, and the handle is modified.
A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali, in which fibres are
Parchmentizing
Treatment of cotton
fabrics with sulfuric acid. The fabric is transparent, sheer, stiff. Parchmentizing results in a permanent stiffness
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
All finishes that change a fabric's properties are applied chemically. Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities
desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one.
Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric. The label
include:
Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily. Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning.
Stabilization Finishes
Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will shrink or stretch not more than 1 or 2%. Preshrunk fabrics have been preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably
Pilling
ANTI-PILLING FINISHES:
spun yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics. Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance, the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear. With knit fabric, two more problems occur, viz., "picking" where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object.
charge build up & give a natural feel. Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester goods.
In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a
NON-SLIP FINISHES:
Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner attractive. To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface. Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging. These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water repellency
the molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses.
Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by
treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 2,3-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence.
A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating
ANTI-MICROBIAL FINISHES:
With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other
materials in public places, anti-microbial finishes have assumed importance. Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for cotton fabrics & Garments.Useful for eliminating bacterial growth due to sweat.
Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols,
quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions.
wool, from being attacked by moths, carpet beetles and other insects.
but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developed that are waterproof, yet are also breathable Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes resist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water will eventually pass through. Applied to fabrics found in raincoats, all-weather coats, hats, capes, umbrellas and shower curtains
stains from being attracted to fabrics. Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or waterbourne soil and stains or both. Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture. Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture. Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil.
that children's sleepwear and certain household furnishings meet certain standards for flammability resistance. Absorbent Finishes increase fibres' moisture holding power. Such finishes have been applied to towels, cloth diapers, underwear, sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important
sleepwear, carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame.
FRAGRANCE FINISH
Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent. Microencapsulated skin moisturizers, vitamins and provitamins
are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles, designed for wear in contact with skin. These are claimed to promote a younger look, counteracting the effects of skin ageing, e.g. as a result of exposure to UVradiation. There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling. Home Textiles
In other areas, household textiles such as curtains, sofas, cushions, sheets, as well as apparel items such as gloves, socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes. The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles.
Sport Wears
As the second skin of the human body, all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds, and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them. The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange, lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period. Apparel
The scents of lavender, rose, citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics, which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs, as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature. Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels, leisure wear, daily wears, party wears etc.
eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling. thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric.
This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and
some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester, post setting as a final finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along with desired handle.
the first wash after weaving, the tensions created by being held on the loom are relaxed. shrinkage: Cottons are shrunk by compressing fabric between two blankets overfed over heated cylinders.
Sanforized, compressive
Wool Remove the scales from the surface of the fiber Is a halogenation treatment that is fabric is treated with chlorine Or coat the scales with a polymer Coating is usually nylon
adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they are distorted
DENIM WASHING
AND FINISHES
INTRODUCTION
Denim washing is know as one of the finishing treatment
that has vast usage because of creating special appearance and updating clothes There is different methods of denim washing.
Types of washes
Mechanical washes
Chemical washes
Stone wash
Whiskering
Sand blasting
Enzyme wash
Bleach wash
Acid wash
spray
Types of washes Dry wash whiskering Laser technology Damage Grinding scrubbing Wet wash Stone wash Enzyme wash Bleach wash PPC spray Tinting Acid wash
Chemical Washes
1. Acid Wash-
It is done by tumbling the garments with pumic stones presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast.
Results depends on:-Fabric -Stone(quantity) -chemical used(conc.) -machine used
Limitations of acid wash: Tendency to be yellowish incomplete reduction gives create problem
Remedy: Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with addition of reducing agent(sodium bisulfate,1-5gpl, 50 deg. Cent.,20mins)
2.Denim BleachTo decolorize the dark shade into light shade by destroying indigo. INDIGO --------------------------. ISATIN (oxidative bleaching agent) Chemicals sodium hypochlorite KMnO4 Hydrogen peroxide
Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending : On strength of the bleach liquor On bleach liquor quantity On temperature and On treatment time. DrawbackHarmful to human health and causes corrosion to stainless steel.
3-E Bleaching concept for denimBleaching with sulphiric acid derivatives, and recently with laccase(enzyme). Technology in based on a Laccase(a redox enzyme using mol. Oxygen as electron acceptor) and mediator. eg. DeniLite(enzyme + PPT)
Pumice stone
Recommended Specification for StonesMoisture content-less than 5% Surface properties-less than 5% fines Apparent Density-0.5-0.75gm/cm3 Abrasion loss-35% Impurities
when exceed 10% they increase apparent density1 gm/cm3, the stone will not float in water during process.
2. Sand blasting:-
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface.
Process
Product look
3.Whiskering-(Cat's Whiskers) Industrially done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, hand sanding and rods. 'knee whiskers' -whiskers on the sides of knees honeycombs' -crease marks on the back of the knee
honeycom b
Whiskers on skirt
SUPER STONEWASH
Scrapping Grindings-
grinding
Laser technology
Scrubbing
Tagging on pockets
1.www.fibre2fashion.com 2.Washing Report of Arvind Mills 3.Denim garment washing process-ATIRA 4.Denim garment processing Express Textile 5.Garment washing & finishing- Pearl Academy of Fashion