BASICS OF TEXTILE MANUFACTURING

Presentation On

Major Cellulose Fibers

By: T. SRIVANI, Asst. Prof., DFT Dt: 28.01.10

INTRODUCTION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Textile Industry in India is the second largest employment generator.

Indian textile industry is the second largest in the world, second only to China. It accounts for more than 30% of the total exports. Indian textile industry is constituted of the segments like Readymade Garments, Cotton Textiles including Handlooms, Man-made Textiles, Silk Textiles, Woolen Textiles, Handicrafts, Coir, and Jute.

CELLULOSIC FIBRES

MAJOR CELLULOSIC
COTTON LINEN JUTE

MINOR CELLULOSIC HEMP SISAL KAPOK RAMIE COIR PINA

COTTON THE KING OF FIBRES

Cotton is a soft, staple fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton
plant (Gossypium sp.). Cotton comes from the Arabic word qutun or kutun

Cotton is cool, soft and comfortable to wear

It is the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors

in world prosperity and economic stability.

IMPORTANCE OF COTTON IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Cotton, one of the principal crops of the country, plays a key role in
the Indian economy. Cotton is also the main raw material for the huge domestic textile

industry.
4 million farmers are cultivating cotton . Area - 85 lakh hectares.

Production - 150 lakh bales.

MAJOR PRODUCERS AND SOURCES OF COTTON

Cotton grows in the seed pod of a genus of plant named gossypium.
Grows best in light, loamy soil. Major countries producing cotton are United States of America. China,

India, Pakistan, Egypt, Brazil.

Some other suppliers : Peru, Cyprus, Central Asia, Japan, and Italy.

MAJOR COTTON PRODUCING COUNTRIES

1.
PEOPLES REPUBLIC OF CHINA
(35.8 million pound bales)

2. 3.

INDIA
(25.3 million pound bales)

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

(19.2 million pound bales)

COTTON

Cotton
History backs to 3,500 BC- India 3,000 BC Peru Composed of 85-90% cellulose A seed hair grows on seed, a single cell 1 seed may have app. 2000 fibers

 1 boll may have app. 100,000 fibers. Fibers accumulate moisture & salt for germination and also to protect. As the plant matures, the boll opens, fibers dry, the cell wall collapses, flattens and twists. This becomes a characteristic feature of cotton, called convolutions. They may be around 100-300 per inch,and they are responsible for cottons spinnability.

COTTON LONGITUDINALSECTION

cotton has a Bean-shaped cross section

 Traditionally spun with Z-twist, as it is the direction it twists when dried. Z twist stays intact on cotton. Gossipium is the Genus. Gossipium hirsutam. Gossipium peruvianum. Gossipium arboreum. Gossipium herbaceum. Gossipium barbedense. Gossipium purpurascede.

TYPES OF COTTON
The following species are grown commercially: Gossypium arboreum L. Tree cotton, native to India and Pakistan.
Gossypium barbadense L. known as American Pima, Creole, Egyptian, or Sea island cotton, native to tropical South America. Gossypium herbaceum L. Levant cotton, native to southern Africa and Arabian Peninsula. Gossypium hirsutum L. Upland cotton, native to Central America, Mexico, the Caribbean and southern Florida - most commonly grown species in the world. Gossypium peruvianium

Gossypium purpurascade

STRUCTURE OF COTTON
Under a microscope, a cotton fiber appears as a very fine, regular fiber.
length: 10 mm to 65 mm Diameter: 11 micron meters to 22 micron meters.

Length to breadth ratio: 6000:1 (longest) to 350:1 (shortest)

Look like a twisted ribbon or a collapsed and twisted tube.

Twists are called convolutions.

Properties of cotton fibers

Property Shape Luster Tenacity (strength) Dry Wet Resiliency Evaluation Fairly uniform in width, 12-20 microns; length varies from to 2 inches; typical length is to 1 inches. low 3.0-5.0 g/d 3.3-6.0 g/d low

Density
Moisture absorption raw:conditioned saturation mercerized: conditioned saturation Dimensional stability Resistance to acids alkali organic solvents sunlight microorganisms insects Thermal reactions to heat to flame

1.54/1.56 g/ccm
8.5% 15-25% 8.5-10.3% 15-27%+ good damage, weaken fibers resistant; no harmful effects high resistance to most Prolonged exposure weakens fibers. Mildew and rot-producing bacteria damage fibers. Silverfish damage fibers. Decomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150C or over. Burns readily.

IDENTIFICATION OF COTTON FIBRE

Test Soda ash 40% sol. Causti c soda 25% sol. Sodi um hypo chlo ride Hyd ro chlo ric acid 40% Turn s yello wish Nitr ic acid 15% Nitric acid 70% Sulp huric acid 15% Sulp huric acid 70% Burning in Flame Microsc opic View Remarks

Fiber Cotto n swells Swells & Shines Whit ened Ope ns up looses strengt h Dissol ves slowly Disso lves on heat ing Disso lves quick ly Burns continuo usly leaving grey ash of burning paper smell Longitud inal twists. Resistanc e to alkalis.

VARIOUS FINISHES APPLIED ON COTTON

Mercerization- adds strength, improves lustre, absorbency, dyeability
Sanforization-ensures less than 1 % shrinkage Moireing- for variable luster and variable pattern Glazing-gloss, smoothness and embossed effects Stiffening- smoothen, stiffens and strengthens

Wrinkle resistant permanent press- improves shape-retension and imparts dip-dry characteristic
Schrenerizing-adds luster

 Stain repelling-for easy care Napping-for softness, warmth and increased absorbency Singeing-for smoothness

Weighting-for bulk
Insulating-for warmth Embossing-for decoration Mildew resistant Fire-retardant Moth-resistant

USES OF COTTON
In apparels- men, women and children wear In household furnishings In industrial textiles In medical field In hosiery and sportswear In tents and shelters

ADVANTAGES
It can be processed into a wide selection of fabrics1. Sheer fabrics- cambric,batist chiffon,lawn,organdy and voile. 2. Medium weight cottons-broadcloth,drill,flannel,poplin,terry cloth and long cloth. 3. Heavy weight cottons-brocade,corduroy,denim,pique and velveteen Can be mercerized to improve luster, absorbency,dyeability and strength. Textured effects are easily achieved by1. Changing yarn structure-high twist yarns, nub yarns, boucl yarns, crimped yarn 2. Changing fabric construction- crepes, seer suckers 3. Application of special finishes- embossing and napping Can be easily dyed or printed with almost all classes of dyes. Good absorbency, Does not build up static electricity, Good conductor of heat

LIMITATIONS
Untreated cotton wrinkles easily
Susceptible to mildew if left damp Flammable Takes a long time to dry

Staple Yarn manufacturing

The concept Making all the fibers to be parallel to each other and twist so as the fibers wrap around each other.

Cotton Process
Plucking and Picking Ginning Opening and mixing Cleaning Carding Drawing Combing(optional) Roving Spinning

Yarn Manufacturing Processes

Plucking:1. Manual 2. Mechanical

Picking:- open tufts are collected and rolled into a batt. Then batt is removed from the cylindrical screens of the picker in an even flat sheet and rolled into a lap

Ginning
Harvested raw cotton contains seeds, leaf fragments etc. Cottonseeds weigh 2/3rds of raw cotton when picked.

These are removed by a cotton gin. Cotton gin has saw-toothed bands that pull the fiber from the seeds. Then cotton fiber is compressed into rectangular bales, covered with jute or polypropylene bagging and bound with iron bands.

Opening and blending

The sequential production process begins by converting the compacted layers of baled cotton into small, light, fluffy tufts that facilitate removal of foreign matter. This initial process is called opening done with the help of mechanical beaters Since bales are of different density, they are cut 24 hrs before processing in order to allow them to bloom.

Scutching

The opened bunch of fibers are picked and opened Further cleaned off the dirt, sand, broken stalks and leaves, seeds etc., The fibers are oriented towards their length Finally a web like finely oriented lap is drawn over a roller called Lap roller

Carding

The lap is fed between two rollers of combs of fine needles, directionally operating opposite, comb the lap.
Another doffing comb cleans and orients the fibers apart by removing short fibers,dirt and other impurities. The lap is transformed into a voluminous soft strand called card sliver.

Carding

The card successively works on small tufts of fibres separating or opening them, removing a high percentage of trash and other foreign matters collecting the fibre in a rope-like form called sliver and delivering it for further processing. The fibres are made parallel to each other and their direction is oriented.

Drawing
A set of card slivers are placed and drawn together to produce Same length of Sliver equal to set of the slivers fed. The short staples are removed and the fibers are more paralelalised and the fibers from different lots are more evenly mixed towards the twisting axis.

Combing
This process is similar to drawing but having very fine needles as combers The shorter fibers are more effectively removed, more oriented so that it could be spun into a more finer and superior quality yarn. Combing is generally an optional process which is done generally for finer quality of yarns.

Combing
Provides more extensive cleaning than carding
Removes short fibres (linters) neps and trash so that the resulting sliver is Clean, lustrous and more uniform in diameter.

Roving
The slivers from drawing are drawn further to a finer strand with lesser twist just to hold the fibers This results in roved sliver

Spinning
The roved sliver is set in a spinning frame and fed with a speed according to the fineness required. Roving drawn at higher speed than its fed. There is a flier which carries and draws the roving due its high speed. The twist is inserted due to the rotation of the flier round the bobbin placed.

Open end spinning

The concept is to take fibers at an earlier stage and spin it either
Mechanically Fluid Electrostatic force The fibers are taken into an area where the fibers are aligned by any of the above forces and oriented towards their spinning axis.

Doubling
Doubling is done generally when the yarn is required with high strength . Doubling is also done for yarns that are generally meant for warp as it needs more strength Doubling also can create texture in to the yarn.

COTTON FROM FIELDS (Plucking)

BALE ROOM
BALE OPENING & MIXING

BLOW ROOM

TWO BLADE BEATER

SCUTCHER

Blow room operations:

Blending Opening Cleaning and Lap formation

LAP MAKING

FINISHED LAPS FOR CARDING

CARDING MACHINE

LAP FOR CARDING

CARDING:
Removal of impurities and foreign particles from the lap and converting in to sliver CARDED SLIVER

RIBBON LAP

DRAWING:
Parallelisation of fibres by further drawing of slivers combined from several carded/combed slivers

COMBING:
Removal of short staple fibres

SPEED FRAME OR SIMPLEX

RING FRAME

ROVING:
Sliver made thinner and slight twist introduced

SPINNING:
Conversion of parallel staple fibres in to continuous strand of yarn

CONE / CHEESE WINDING

WINDING:
Winding of spun yarn done in ring bobbins, cones or cheese.

DOUBLING:
DOUBLING OF YARNS
Two or more single yarns from cones are Twisted and wound to a parallel cheese

SIZING OF YARNS

AFTER TREATMENTS GIVEN TO YARNS

FINISHING OF YARNS:
Sizing Ultra violet yarn inspection and Steaming

WEIGHING OF YARNS

RING SPINNING
Blow room
Carding

SPINNING
ROTOR OR OPEN END
Blow room Carding Draw frame Open end spinning Assembly winder Doubling Packing

Sliver lap
Ribbon lap

Comber
Draw frame

Simplex
Ring frame

PACKING

PROPERTIES OF FLAX FIBRE

FLAX
It is a natural cellosic bast fibre derived from the stems and bast of a plant. The heaviest fibre with density of 1.51g/cc. flax is processed to make linen fibre. Produced in countries like australia, belgium, france, germany etc.

RETTING OF FLAX

 It is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather and is thus superior to cotton in this regard. Linen was used in the Mediterranean in the pre-Christian age. Linen was sometimes used as currency in ancient Egypt.

 Strength: Linen is a durable fiber, as is two-three times as strong as cotton. It is second in strength to silk. Elasticity: Elasticity is the extent to which a fiber can be elongated or stretched and the then returned to its normal condition and size. Linen is the least elastic natural fabric. Resilience: Resilience refers to the extent to which a fabric can be deformed by crushing or compressing it, and finally returning it to its original condition. Linen is quite stiff and wrinkles easily.

 Absorbency: Absorbency refers to the extent to which moisture can penetrate into a fiber. The fiber absorbs moisture and dries more quickly. It is excellent for manufacturing towels and handkerchiefs. Heat Conductivity: Heat conductivity refers to the extent to which heat can be conveyed through a fiber. It is most suitable for use in summers, as the fiber allows the heat to escape, leaving a cool effect.

 Linen is also used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents, and even for books. For eg; Liber Linteus. Irish Linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands. Linen was probably never used as material for the Hoplite cuirass because of its price. It should be ironed when damp. The natural color of unbleached linen is ecru.

 Linen will withstand washing in hot water and scrubbing. It can be bleached by spreading it in the sun to dry. Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was used for shields and gambeson. Its uses were collectively called body linen. Linen is also used for cloth, canvases, sails, tents, and even for books. For eg; Liber Linteus. Irish Linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands. Linen was probably never used as material for the Hoplite cuirass because of its price.

PRODUCTION OF FLAX
The fibre is extracted from the basts by a process called retting. In this, the layers of basts are kept in water, soaked for sometime (from some hours to few days) and then the fibre is removed from the swelled bast. There are two types of retting:
Chemical retting: it is done using H2So4 or caustic soda in

boiling water.
Natural retting : it is done by soaking the stems in dew

drops, rainfall or stagnant water(ponds, lakes etc).

QUALITY AND GRADES

Countries cultivating flax plant are
Belgium Scot

France
Russia Germany

Countrai flax produces the finest and strongest yarn from Belgium

METHODS OF SEPARATION OF LINEN

1. CULTIVATION: April or May 2. HARVESTING: By the end of August 3. PREPARATION OF FIBRES:
Rippling/Threshing seeds and leaves

removal from stem. Retting Most important process where stems are left under moistened condition to decompose and separation of fibers.

Types of retting :
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Dew retting Pool or Dam retting Stream retting Vat retting Chemical retting Breaking Scutching Hackling (Coming) Spinning.

4. Manufacturing process:

CONSTRUCTION OF LINEN FABRICS

Inelastic so usually break during weaving process Very moist atmosphere is required. Generally not knitted because of a) Inherent stiffness b)Resistance to being formed into loops

MORPHOLOGICAL STRUCTURE
MACROSCOPIC PROPERTIES
Fine regular longitudnal strands of fibre Length varies from 10 to 100cm. Thickness ranges from 10 to 20cm. Length:breadth ratio= 15000:1(fine) & 1500:1(short) Color ranges between light blond to grey.

MICROSCOPIC PROPERTIES It has 800 nodes in one fibre. The cells are covered with thick wax layer which subdue its lusture. Flax cells are hard and more resistant than cotton.

Flax Fibre

(cross sectional shape)

(longitudinal shape)

About 3-6 cells constitute a fibre cross-section. Microscopic view : Longitudinal shape cylindrical (like a bamboo) Cross-sectional shape polygonal

PROPERTIES
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:
High tenacity due to crystalline structure Wet tenacity is high due to more no. of hydrogen bonds. Inelastic like cotton and wrinkleds. Hydroscopic in nature Has the best heat resistance due to thick wax layer.

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
Effects of alkalis: Treatment of flax with alkali increases its lustre, absorbency and reactivity but reduces its strength. This process is called cottonisation. Effect of acids: acids weaken the fibre by hydrolysing the polymer at glycoside oxygen atom.

Effect of bleaches: two commonly used oxidizing bleaches are sodium hypochlorite and sodium perborate. Effect of sunlight and weather: the UV rays and infra red rays provide photochemical and heat energy which is enuf to degrade the fibre. Resistance to perspiration: color fades due to excessive perspiration.

USES OF FLAX
Table wear Suiting Clothing apparel Surgical thread Sewing thread Decorative fabrics Bed linen Kitchen towels High quality papers Handkerchief linen Shirting Upholstery Draperies Wall coverings Artist's canvases Luggage fabrics

Physical Properties
COLOUR
DENSITY LENGTH

Light ivory to dark tan or grey (due to cortical

tissue adhering to the fibres)

1.50 g/cm3 2 to 36 (due to high degree of polymerisation18000)

LUSTRE

Good (due to its long regular fibre surface which is

covered with a film of wax)

PILLING PROBLEM
ABSORBENCY

Less (due to long fibres)

Very good (polar OH groups attract water
molecules)

Mechanical properties
Twice that of cotton ( crystalline structure and
STRENGTH formation of H-bonds);

20% more wet strength (formation of more Hbonds) ELASTICITY , ELONGATION , RESILIENCY & FLEXIBILITY ABRASION RESISTANCE WRINKLE RESISTANCE

Poor (due to crystalline polymer system and

formation of countless H-bonds)

Fair ; abrades at folds and edges

Poor (due to poor resiliency )

Electrical & Thermal Properties

HEAT & ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY STATIC ELECTRICITY

Good No problem; no static buildup (absorbency and conductivity is good) Withstands high temperature; may char and burn at very high temperatures

EFFECT OF HEAT

Biological & Chemical Properties

COMPOSITION AFFINITY TO DYESTUFF BIOLOGICAL RESISTANCE RESISTANCE TO SUNLIGHT

70% cellulose, 30% pectin, woody tissue, ash and moisture. Difficult to dye (surface of fibre is hard and nonporous, therefore impenetrable to dyes)

Resistant to moths; Attacked by silverfish fungi, mildew & bacteria (cellulosic composition)
Good Weakened by bleaches and acids (tissue holding the cells are broken down by bleaches and acids); Resistant to alkalies

CHEMICAL RESISTANCE

JUTE
Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibres Long soft shiny vegetable fibre It falls into bast fibre category and can be spun into coarse thread Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin .

Jute

SOURCE
Jute is one of the strongest natural fibres The jute fibre comes from the stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the jute plant. The production is concentrated in Bangladesh, India, China, and Thailand. It is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability.

It is thus a ligno-cellulosic fibre that is partially a textile fibre and partially wood. The plant grows upto a height of 2.5m and its fibre length is about 2m. it is generally used in geo textiles. it has a good resistance to micro organisms and insects. it has low wet strength, low elongation and inexpensive to produce

JUTE FURNISHED FABRICS

Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is produced from plants in the genus Corchorus, family Tiliaceae. Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibres and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses. Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose (major component of plant fibre) and lignin (major components wood fibre). It falls into the bast fibre category (fibre collected from bast or skin of the plant) along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc.

 The industrial term for jute fibre is raw jute. The fibres are off-white to brown, and 14 meters (312 feet) long. Jute plants (Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis) Jute fibre is often called hessian; jute fabrics are also called hessian cloth and jute sacks are called gunny bags in some European countries. The fabric made from jute is popularly known as burlap in North America.

Bundles of jute, showing the fibres of Corchorus olitorius (tossa jute fibre) and Corchorus capsularis (white jute fibre)

Jute plants (Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis)

FEATURES
The lower part is hard fibre, which is called jute cuttings in Bangladesh and India (commonly called jute butts or jute tops elsewhere). Jute cuttings are lower in quality, but have commercial value for the paper, carded yarn, and other fibre processing industries. Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly. It is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fibre. It is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured from the bast or skin of the plant's stem.

Picture of cutting lower part of the long jute fibre. The lower part is hard fibre, which is called jute cuttings in Bangladesh and India (commonly called jute butts or jute tops elsewhere). Jute cuttings are lower in quality, but have commercial value for the paper, carded yarn, and other fibre processing industries.

USES OF JUTE
Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for wrapping bales of raw cotton, and to make sacks and coarse cloth. The fibres are also woven into curtains, chair coverings, carpets, area rugs, hessian cloth, and backing for linoleum. The fibres are used alone or blended with other types of fibres to make twine and rope. Jute butts, the coarse ends of the plants, are used to make inexpensive cloth. Jute is also used in the making of ghilie suits. Which are used as camoflauge and resemble grasses or brush.

Jute matting being used to prevent flood erosion while natural vegetation becomes established. For this purpose, a natural and biodegradable fibre is essential.

Minor Cellulosic Fibres

1) 2) 3) 4) 5)

These fibres are those which are rarely used in Apparel use. They are produced in less quantity. The Minor Cellulosic Fibres are: Hemp 6) Coir Manila Hemp Ramie Sisal Kapok

HEMP FIBRE
Hemp is a vegetable fibre. It is obtained from the Hemp plant. It is cultivated almost all over the world, except for the United States.

Properties of Hemp Fibre

It is a yellowish brown fibre Hemp fibers can be 3 to 15 feet long, running the length of the plant. Depending on the processing used to remove the fiber from the stem, the hemp naturally may be creamy white, brown, gray, black or green

Harvesting of Hemp

Appearance -Hemp

Uses of Hemp Fibre

Hemp fabric Hemp Necklace

Hemp toe sandal

MANILLA
Manilla, also known as Manila Hemp, is a fibre obtained from the leaves of the abaca plant. Mainly cultivated in Manila, the capital of Philippines.

The abaca plant

Properties of Manilla Fibre

The abaca plant grows up to 20 feet when mature. The stem consists of tightly packed, long, crescent-shaped sheaths, that grow from a central core.

Mature abaca plant

Manilla Hemp Yarn

Characteristics of Manilla fibre

Extremely strong. Resistant to salt water. Bio-degradable. Eco-friendly. Has a beautiful texture. Relatively cheap to produce.
Manilla Rope

Uses of Manilla Fibre

Manilla fibre is used to make Ropes Paper Rug Furniture Carpet and countless other products.

Manilla Rope

Manilla Bag

RAMIE
Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used for at least six thousand years. It is also known as china grass. Ramie is normally harvested two to three times a year but under good growing conditions, can be harvested up to six times per year. The ramie plant is 2.5m tall.

Ramie Plant

Properties of Ramie
Ramie fibre is one of the strongest natural fibres. The fibre is similar to flax in absorbency, density and microscopic appearance. Silky lustre to the fabric appearance. Usually blended with other fibres, as it is not that durable.
Ramie Yarn

Characteristics of Ramie
Ramie fibre has the ability to hold shape. Resistance to wrinkling. It is stiff and brittle. Lacks resiliency. Low elasticity
Ramie Fabric

Uses of Ramie
Ramie is used to make Industrial sewing thread Packing materials Fishing nets Filter cloths

Ramie Packing

Ramie Hat

SISAL
Sisal is obtained from the leaves of the Sisal Plant. Annually, thousands of tonnes of Sisal fibres are produced in most parts of Africa and Asia.
Sisal Plant

Properties of Sisal Fibre

Sisal fibres are smooth, straight and yellow and can be long or short. Since it is coarse and inflexible, it is mainly blended with wool or acrylic to give a softer hand.

Harvested Sisal

Characteristics of Sisal Fibre

Sisal fibre is Strong Durable Ability to stretch Affinity towards certain dyestuff Resistance to deterioration in salt water

Sisal Fibre

Uses of Sisal Fibre

Sisal fibres are used to make Rugs Slippers Ropes Carpets Specialty papers

Sisal Bag

Sisal Scrub

Sisal Rug

KAPOK
Kapok fiber is a silky cotton-like substance that surrounds the seeds in the pods of the ceiba tree. The pods contain seeds surrounded by a fluffy, yellowish fiber that is a mix of lignin and cellulose.
Kapok pod

Properties of Kapok Fibre

It can support as much as 30 times its own weight in water and loses only 10 percent of buoyancy over a 30day period. It is eight times lighter than cotton. The fibre is yellowish.
Kapok Pod (open)

Characteristics of Kapok Fibre

The Kapok fibre is Light Very buoyant Highly flammable Resistant to water

Kapok Seed

Appearance-kapok

Kapok yarn spool

Uses of Kapok Fibre

Kapok is mainly used in stuffing of Pillows Blankets Soft toys Upholstery and for Insulation
Kapok used for Filling

Uses of Kapok Fibre

Pillow

Upholstery

Blanket

Soft Toy

COIR
Fibre mechanically extracted from dry mature coconut husk after soaking. It is long, hard and strong fibre but with lower softness, lower water absorption capacity, and shorter life than long retted fibre. There are two types of Coirs 1) Brown Coir 2) White Coir Coconut tree, Coconut and Husk

Properties of Coir Fibre

The individual fiber cells are narrow and hollow, with thick walls made of cellulose. They are pale when immature but later become hardened and yellowed as a layer of lignin is deposited on their walls. Coir

Characteristics of Coir Fibre

Coir Fibre is Relatively water proof Resistant to damage by salt water Brown Coir is thick and strong White Coir is smoother and fine.

Segregation of Coir Fibre

Appearance coir

Uses of Coir Fibre

Coir Fibre is used for Padding in furniture Production of Brushes Carpets Ropes Rags

Coir Carpet

Coir Rope

THANK YOU

COIR

SOURCE Coir fibers are found between the husk and the outer shell of a coconut. The individual fiber cells are narrow and hollow, with thick walls made of cellulose. The coir is of two types: 1. Brown coir 2. White coir

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
BROWN COIR
Brown coir is harvested from fully ripened coconuts The fibrous layer of the fruit is then separated from the hard shell (manually) by driving the fruit down onto a spike to split it (De-husking The fibrous husks are soaked in pits or in nets in a slow moving body of water to swell and soften the fibres The long bristle fibres are separated from the shorter mattress fibres underneath the skin of the nut, a process known as wet-milling The mattress fibres are sifted to remove dirt and other rubbish, dried in the sun and packed into bales

WHITE COIR
White coir fibers are harvested from the coconuts before they are ripe The immature husks are suspended in a river or water-filled pit for up to ten months. During this time micro-organisms break down the plant tissues surrounding the fibres to loosen them - a process known as retting Segments of the husk are then beaten by hand to separate out the long fibres which are subsequently dried and cleaned Cleaned fibre is ready for spinning into yarn using a simple one-handed system or a spinning wheel.

RETTING

PROPERTIES
Mature brown coir fibers contain more lignin and less cellulose than fibers such as flax and cotton and so are stronger but less flexible The fibers are white or light brown in color and are smoother and finer, but also weaker

USES
Brown coir is used in floor mats and doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles and sacking. Used to make twine Used to fill mattresses

The major use of white coir is in rope manufacture

HEMP
The fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the hemp plant. It is commonly called "bast fibre", meaning it grows as a stalk from the ground

PROPERTIES
The inner two fibers of hemp are more woody, and are more often used in non-woven items and other industrial applications

Hemp fibers can be 3 to 15 feet long, running the length of the plant. the hemp naturally may be creamy white, brown, gray, black or green

USES

the manufacture of cordage of varying tensile strength clothing

nutritional products
hemp fibers are increasingly used to strengthen cement

RAMIE:Ramie (Boehmeria nivea) is a flowering plant in the nettle family native to eastern Asia. The true ramie or china grass also called Chinese plant or white ramie is the chinese cultivated plant. A second type is known as green ramie or rhea and is believed to originate from Malay peninsula. It is suitable in tropical climate.. Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used for at least six thousand years, and is principally used for fabric production. It is a bast fibre, and the part used is the bark of the vegetative stalks. Ramie is normally harvested two to three times a year but under good growing conditions can be harvested up to six times per year.Unlike other bast crops, ramie requires chemical processing to de-gum the fibre.

Properties
Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers. It exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie fiber is known especially for its ability to hold shape, reduce wrinkling, and introduce a silky lustre to the fabric appearance. It is not as durable as other fibers, and so is usually used as a blend with other fibers such as cotton or wool. It is similar to flax in absorbency, density and microscopic appearance. However it will not dye as well as cotton. Because of its high molecular crystallinity, ramie is stiff and brittle and will break if folded repeatedly in the same place; it lacks resiliency and is low in elasticity and elongation
potential.

Uses Despite its strength, ramie has had limited acceptance for textile use. The fiber's extraction and cleaning are expensive, chiefly because of the several steps involving scraping, pounding, heating, washing, or exposure to chemicals. Some or all are needed to separate the raw fiber from the adhesive gums or resins in which it is ensheathed. Spinning the fiber is made difficult by its brittle quality and low elasticity; and weaving is complicated by the hairy surface of the yarn, resulting from lack of cohesion between the fibers. The greater utilization of ramie depends upon the development of improved processing methods.

Kapok (Ceiba pentandra) is a tropical tree of the order Malvales and the family Malvaceae (previously separated in the family Bombacaceae), native to Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, northern South America, and (as the variety C. pentandra var. guineensis) to tropical west Africa. The word is also used for the fibre obtained from its seed pods. The tree is also known as the Java cotton, Java kapok, or ceiba. It is a sacred symbol in Maya mythology.

 Uses
The fibre is light, very buoyant, resilient, highly flammable and resistant to water. The process of harvesting and separating the fibre is labourintensive and manual. It cannot be spun but is used as an alternative to down as filling in mattresses, pillows, upholstery, teddy bears and for insulation. It was previously much used in life jackets and similar devices. The fibre has been largely replaced by manmade materials. The seeds produce an oil used locally in soap and that can be used as fertilizer.

 Pia
Pia is a fiber made from the leaves of a pineapple and is commonly used in the Philippines. It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The end fabric is lightweight, easy to care for and has an elegant appearance similar to linen

Major Fiber Properties

Pia comes from the leaves of the pineapple plant. "Each strand of the hand scrapped Pia fiber is knotted one by one to form a continuous filament for hand weaving into the Pia cloth". The pia fiber is softer, and has a high luster, and is usually white or ivory in color.

Production Methods
Scraping a pineapple leaf to reveal the fibers. Since pia is from a leaf, the leaf has to be cut from the plant. Then the fiber is pulled or split away from the leaf. Most leaf fibers are long and somewhat stiff.

Uses
A major use for pia fabric is in the creation of the Barong Tagalong and other formal wear that is common in the Philippines. It is also used for other table linens, bags, mats and other clothing items, or anytime that a light weight, but stiff and sheer fabric is needed.

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