Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
Lecture 1
Fall, 2006
Teaching Assistant
Mr. Nate Greene Office Hours: TBA Office: 202 Sheets
Mailing List
www/oce/uri/edu/ mailman/listinfo/oce421
Primary Textbook
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, (1984) Shore Protection Manual, Vol.1 and 2, Vicksburg, MS: Coastal Engineering Research Center. (it is now out-of-print)
Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM)
http://ocean.oce.uri.edu/cem/
Grading Policy
Homework Assignments: 10% Mid-term Exam: 30% (10/23/2006) Quizzes: 30% Project Report and Presentation : 30%
Homework Assignments
5-6 homework assignments No late homework accepted Using MATLAB extensively
Project proposal
must include:
general statement (statement of problem) design site description proposed coastal structure map and bathymetry plot near the design site wave data base to be used
Progressive/Standing Wave
A waveform which moves relative to a fixed point is called a progressive wave; the direction in which it moves is termed the direction of wave propagation. If a waveform merely move up and down at a fixed position, it is called a standing wave or a clapotis.
Gravity Waves
Surface tension forces may be neglected. Gravity is the dominant restoring force. Oscillatory water motion is the result of the interaction between gravity and inertia forces.