Introduction to Indian Garment Industry

Lopamudra Das Ghosh Principal, ATDC Orissa M F Tech (NIFT), Lead auditor

BASIC TERMS
APPAREL: A material, stitched or unstitched, used to cover the body or drape over the body GARMENT: A stitched and shaped material to cover the body partly or fully CLOTH: A piece of material generally flat and long, flexible, drapable.

APPARELS

SCARF

SAREE
STOLE

GARMENTS

STITCHED (GARMENTS)
APPAREL

UNSTITCHED

FROM FIBRE TO GARMENT

FIBRE

YARN

FABRIC

GARMENT

Basic Industrial Terminologies

Customized Tailoring (made to measure/ bespoke):
The process of manufacturing garments for specific individuals based on measurement, design and fabric generally supplied by customer. The process is customer specific and so called customer tailoring

CUSTOMIZED TAILORING

FEATURES OF CUSTOMIZED TAILORING

Customer specific Single garment making Traditional technique Use of generalized machineries

 Mass Production The process of manufacturing in large quantity on basis of forecasted trends, size of target market and standard body measurements

MASS PRODUCTION
CUTTING

PATTERN

TREND

FINISHING

FEATURES OF MASS PRODUCTION

Large quantity manufacturing Not individual specific but to fit a size range Designs and colors based on forecasts, trends and requirements of target markets Use of specialized manufacturing techniques and equipments

 Readymade garments Garments made from mass production in different standard sizes and color & prints. Such garment is not made as per an individuals specification but made in such a way that it can easily fit an individual with body measurements matching any standard size.

READYMADE GARMENT BRANDS

 Ready to wear (pret-a-porter) Generally refers to free size garments or readymade garments off the rack which are sold ready to be worn

THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF GARMENTS

Readymade garments are manufactured in mass scale at garment manufacturing units the nature of business of which may be domestic or export. In Domestic, garments/products are manufactured and sold in the same country In Export, garments/products are manufactured in one country but sold in another country

 The simple process of fabric to garment to customer/consumer is:

Fabric
Production process

Garment

Customer

EXPORT BUSINESS
COUNTRY A
D I S T R I B U TI O N

ORDER PROCESSED AT COUNTRY B

RETAIL OUTLETS ALL OVER WORLD

Design & research for pattern development

Industrial pattern laid on fabric for marker

Fabric spread/laid on table

Fabric cut by machine in layers

Cut fabric lay sorted/ lay packing

Garment parts stitching & assembling

Quality checking and inspection of finished products

Pressing and finishing

Packing

Process flowchart for manufacturing

Buyer decides what to produce (style, color, quantity) Buyer searches for a manufacturer Buyer-manufacturer/seller contact (internet, previous order, old customers, advertisement, agent) Negotiation for order/contract

Buyer sends an original garment for duplication at manufacturers unit (to assess quality, production time, delivery, cost)

The first sample is made at manufacturers unit (duplicating same size, style/design, similar fabric, print, drape and trims)- PROTO SAMPLE to assess consumption and cost
The sample is sent for buyers quality evaluation

If the buyer approves, the order is confirmed (otherwise the order is cancelled)

Cost negotiation between buyer and manufacturer

Buyer sends ORDER CONFIRMATION ( a written document confirming the order) Buyer sends SPECIFICATION SHEET ( with details of every step of work like size chart, grading, size-color ratio, trimmings details, stitching details, packing details etc.) and a MEDIUM SIZE PATTERN

Manufacturer prepares/generates PRODUCTION ORDER (an internal document with details of working of each department) Manufacturer places order for raw materials (Fabric and trimmings) and packing materials (plastic, shapers, cardboard stays etc.) Manufacturer conducts raw material inspection after the purchased materials are received

Materials received are kept in stores Pattern set sent by buyer is graded to different sizes according to size colour ratio Marker planning done to assess fabric consumption Production planning including line balancing and machine sequencing taken up

Fabric issued to cutting room and ready marker from CAD received at cutting room

Spreading and laying up of fabric in cutting room

Marker placed on top of lay Block cutting (for extra curves) by straight knife

Precise cutting by band knife or die cutting machine In process inspection on cutting quality, number of pieces, size etc Lay packing Ticketing

Bundling Dispatch to production floor for stitching Stitching of small parts following a system of production according to plant size, order volume etc. Assembly of small parts with bigger parts Final inspection for measurement in complete garment Thread trimming and thread sucking Stain removing

Pressing Folding Final pressing Bagging Boxing Carton packing Storage and despatch