Types of Knitting

The method of converting yarn into fabric by intermeshing loops, which are formed with the help of needles is known as knitting. There are two basic forms of knitting technology: Weft Knitting and Warp Knitting. Weft knitting is done with hands, and with machines. Warp knitting is done by machines only. In weft knitting, only a single yarn is required and the fabric consists of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. On the other hand, warp knitting requires one yarn for every stitch in the row, that is the course, and these yarns make vertical parallel wales.

Warp and weft Knitting

Warp knitting is resistant to runs, and is commonly used as a lingerie fabric. Weft knitted fabrics can be produced in either tubular or flat form. Weft knitted fabric is usually highly elastic and highly drapable, which makes it suitable for a wide range of apparel applications. The main advantage of warp knitted fabric is that it is not easy to unravel like weft knitted fabric. However, this fabric is not as elastic as weft knitted fabric.

Woven v/s Knitted Fabric

The significant difference between woven and knitted fabric is - Woven fabric has two sets of yarn at right angles to each other One yarn lies vertically, (the warp) and one yarn lies horizontaly (the weft) - The weft yarn is interlocked with the warp by passing under then over, one or more warp threads - Knitted fabric has one set of yarn which is worked either horizontally or vertically, not both - There are two recognised knitting structures warp knitting, sometimes known as rachelle knitting And weft knitting

Warp Knitting
Warp knitting has one set of yarn for each wale, each yarn only travels vertically The knitting is produced using a specialist warp knit machine Warp-knitted end products include, net and lace curtain fabrics, and fabrics that imitate crochet

Warp Knitted Structures

Warp Knitting Machine

Weft Knitting
Weft knitting has one set of yarn which only travels horizontally across the fabric Weft knitted fabrics can be produced using a variety of powered, electronic, industrial or, domestic knitting machines The fabric can also be made by hand using two knitting needles Weft knitted fabric can be shaped during manufacture It can also be produced as 'piece goods' (lengths of fabric) which are then cut and sewn like woven fabric

Weft Knitting Machine

Weft Knitted structure

Wale and course

a single wale - Wales run vertically up and down the fabric a single course - Courses or rows run horizontally across the fabric

Knitting Needle

Knitting Action

Types of Weft Knitted Stitches

There are three fundamental stitches in weft knitting: Plain Rib Purl Interlock

Plain-Knit Stitch
-The basic form of knitting is the Plain Knit. This stitch can be produced in flat knit, tubular, or circular forms. The flat knit is also called jersey stitch. - In plain knitted stitch, each loop is drawn through other loops to the right side of the fabric. The loops form vertical rows, also called wales, on the fabric face, giving it a sheen, and crosswise rows, also called courses, on the back. - The plain-knit stitch produces relatively lightweight fabric compared with the thicker fabrics produced by other stitches.

Plain- knit

Feeder Diagram

Plain or single Jersey

Rib Stitch
The Rib knitted stitch is produced either on a flat rib machine or a circular rib machine. Rib knitted fabric has alternating rows of plain and purl stitches constructed so that both the face and back of the fabric look alike. Rib construction is costlier because of the greater amount of yarn needed. Weft Knitted Fabric is usually highly elastic and highly drapeable and these two properties make the fabric suitable for a wide range of apparel applications. Weft knitted fabric is considered to be comfortable both for outer garments and undergarments.

Rig Stitch

Rib Knitting

Rib Stitch

Purl Stitch
This stitch is also known as the links/links stitch. It is made on flatbed and circular machines by needles using hooks on both ends. The hooks alternately draw loops to the front of the fabric in one course, and to the back in the next course. It is a slow and costly technique. Purlstitched fabric looks the same on both sides and resembles the reverse of the plain knit. Because the purl stitch has crosswise stretch and excellent lengthwise stretch, it is widely used in kids' and infant wear.

Rib Gaiting

Interlock stitch

Interlock Gaiting